I ruined a dmt while flattening a spyderco double stuff a few years ago. Their ceramic is so hard it will humble you. You’ve given me the confidence to flatten my ultra fine so I can use it for straight razer honing, I was about to give up on it knowing what happened last time
@@guycxz I can’t tell if you’re kidding or not. I’m talking about straight razors that shave hair off of your face. Not a processor, but ptm7950, especially from Honeywell, is amazing as a phase change TIM, which is easy to work with, unlike things like gallium.
The most important part about this video is that you said you did a lot of testing. That was important to me. Nice job man. Now if you want something crazy to try out, try using that stone and a series of diamond sprays. Thats a weird sharpening progression I’m trying to play with.
Thanks for making this video. I’ve been thinking about doing this since you recommended it to me. This is kinda embarrassing but I’ve never bought any SiC powder or glass for lapping my stones 😬 I know it makes a big difference. Could you possibly point me in the right direction on where to source the stuff I need for this? I’ve heard the prices vary quite a bit on SiC powder.
You bet, thanks for watching. Well I got my SIC (a few bags) a while back from edgeproinc.com, I just took a look and looks like they have 60 grit SIC for $5 (they're in Oregon). You can get it off ebay and amazon too as far as I know and I think gritomatic carries it as well. If you need glass I would just check locally for 1/4" plate glass, normally pretty cheap.
@@dskiles5311 I use float glass but I don't see why that wouldn't work as long as it's nice and flat. Besides if you break it the glass will not be in large sharp pieces but in very small pieces.
I have an older medium stone, and I find my new fine stone cuts alot more effectively. It’s almost as if the medium stone is too worn in. Any tips on how to make the medium stone as rough as possible? Thanks! :)
You've tried giving it a good cleaning, bar keep and some dish soap along with a stiff bristle brush normally are enough. Some loose SIC powder on glass will quickly rough up the stone as will a coarser diamond plate.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I bought 60 grit SIC from Edge Pro and did what you did on my medium stone. I’m very happy with the result, the stone cuts extremely well, almost like my DMT course. I don’t understand why they don’t come like that from the factory. Thanks!
Great Video. My 302f also came with one side uneven, has some bumps. So I'm looking to try this. I don't have SIC powder or a cheap plate. Only Atomas. Do you think Atoma 140->400->1200 would have similar effects? Do you think the Atoma's would survive the process? thanks!
Yes should leave a nice finish and the diamond plates seem to leave the best finish on ceramic, other methods leave an almost glazed finish that doesn't cut well. If you get a chance let me know how it works for you.
unfortunately everytime i've used a diamond stone to lap the coorstek white fine ceramics. it doesnt do a good job polishing the stone, it usually glazes it. I've flattened and changed the surface on about 9 stones. You should try using synthetic diamond powder like SiC and then progress up to a 14K / 50K powder. It will keep its very subtle cutting action while not glazing
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY yes. they cut them with diamond. No, because the diamond is not loose, it glazes and causes burnishing scratch patterns. SiC can be used. it would take forever. I have taken DMT bench stones to the face of spydercos without success(yes it cuts and can be used to lap flat). IMO because the UF is cut with a diamond saw, it already feels glazed, which is why most say it only polishes, plus they are never actually flat even on the saw cut sides. I own 9 different coorstek ceramic stones and even if you keep the UF the way it is. its not flat. Majority of the straight razor community will attest to it. Take two to three hours flattening a fine with 140/170 diamond powder move up to 3K, then 14K - 50K powder on a glass lap and its way finer than just the saw cut...Plus now its actually flat and doing a better job for you.
@@captainmarvelous8739 They use a diamond cup wheel to flatten / resurface the UF stones, this is evident by the marks left on the stones and I've had a number of the UF stones and never seemed glazed to me. After being lapped on the diamond plate there was no glazing on the stone, I have used the finer diamond powder you mention however it didn't seem to leave the finish I was after. No the UF isn't perfectly flat from the spyderco but much flatter than the fine stones 302f. Shouldn't take quite that long to get a ceramic perfectly level, 30-45min from SIC powder to diamond as shown and leaves an approx. 1-2 mic finish. If you use the finer powder and it's to your liking then stick with it.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I fully feel you on the UF being flatter. I only lapped one side of my 302uf and it was quite a bit flatter out the gate...its the 80's version fine ones that took me alot more time. Have you flattened any of the fines with SiC? I guess the last two i used SiC with, I used to make the surface more aggressive so I had to be sure it didnt break down as I dont have a 30/60/80 in diamond... Maybe its the older ones that can be a bit worse warped. Ive seen it in about 6 of the fines from the 80's when they were still coors ceramics and holy crap its alot of work to get them flattened on both sides
@@captainmarvelous8739 Not sure if you're referring to a different ceramic, if I remember correctly the first Spyderco ceramic bench stones came out around 04'-05'. I purchased a set when they first came out and are still being made basically the same way.
I found lapping the Uf and F stones, you can take them too fine of a finish. Mine stopped cutting, and started burnishing. Watching your end results, it appears you are close to that burnishing effect. Have you noticed this in your testing?
Hey Jef, depending on what I used to lap the ceramics I did notice moderate to even complete burnishing or glazing of the stone. This would result is a very slick feeling surface that wouldn't cut properly. I can say with certainty there is literally no burnishing or glazing of the fine stone, it literally looks and feels the same as the UF from the factory just a tad finer. I think that by doing the brunt of the work with SIC and then using the diamond plate just to remove a very thin layer / resurface the stone is what gives the best results. If you do start to finish with say one diamond stone that IMO seems to somewhat glaze or burnish the surface. I have used the resurfaced side quite a bit now and isn't changing just smoothing out a tad just as the UF does from the factory and still cuts really well and leaves an amazing edge. The plate I used feels/looks (under magnification) somewhere in between a coarse and fine DMT. And yes I think that if I used an even finer diamond to refinish the 302f stone it wouldn't cut properly, where it's at right now is IMO at the limit of the stone.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Yea I watched your diamond lapping. I used my Atoma plate to lap my uf stone once, and didn't like the results. Of course I only used the 140 plate. Ended up taking it back to the Sic on glass, to about 600 grit. That leaves a nice finish that breaks in well. Ceramics are fun to experiment with. I have seen my uf stone get as coarse as the medium, and so fine it just burnishes. Many different levels of conditioning that can be explored.
@@Jef Great topic of discussion. I've recently been thinking how much I love the aggressive edge I get off my Spyderco Goldstone when doing a microbevel using the stone's radiused edges. It seems it's finished coarser than the flats are and thus gives a more aggressive edge than even the medium stones do even though it's rated as "fine" grit. This makes me wonder, has anyone experimented with getting coarser finishes for more aggressive sharpening action as well as coarser, more aggressive edges for better slicing cuts in things like cardboard and rope? Love to hear what you or anyone has tried out!
Excuse me could I do the same with a pocket ceramic stone because that what I did and thier was a noticable difference in feel the side I use the pocket stone on flet smoother and softer to touch.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I don't have any dimond plates that the reason I ask about using pocket stones but thanks for confirming it can be done with the pocket stone
You bring up a good point. Yes, SIC powder especially the coarser stuff will eat into the glass so you have to keep an eye on it. I normally flip it over and use the other side and once that's dished I will discard and get a fresh piece. The glass will last quite a while if using finer grit powder and lower force.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Yeah, was wondering how to deal with that. I am still using sandpaper for flattening at the moment but looking into more efficient methods. Pondering getting an Atoma 140 for flattening my stones, both the Shapton Pro's and my Oilstones are pretty hard and the Sandpaper didn't really work too well for them xD
@@ArikGST Hard to beat Atoma plates, very good quality. I would recommend adding a higher grit Atoma too if you plan on lapping higher grit stones 2k and above as the 140 will leave superficial scratches. The scratches will come out over time with some use though.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Thanks as always. I am waiting on one of my auctions on ebay, afterwards I`ll be able to afford at least the 140 Atoma, and then when I get more funds I´ll add the 400. Honestly I wanna get the full Atoma Set but that`s like 300Euro, so I`ll have to get them one by one. Totally different topic. I just ordered a Norton Crystolon and I plan to get an Arkansas Translucent as the finishing stone for that. How would you flatten an Arkansas stone?
excellent video, i completed 302uf treatment both sides with DMT, then one side also with STARCKE MATADOR from P360 up to ST5000 for full glaze. both sides are now dead flat with very different surface properties (and performance) and, of course, much smoother, finer, slower-cutting than original Spyderco finish; i didn't go the SiC powder route. yet the ultimate (and most expensive) whetstone is geman man-made ruby which I'm gonna review in detail on B/F. 250US$ shipped from Gesswein ouch hh😇
Yes, I'd say it's roughly 1-2mic on the finished side. This of course is an estimate having used these stones for years and being very familiar with the feel and finish they produce.
NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY in the video you said you wish you had coarse diamond powder (to Lapp with instead of sic). Idk diamond is so much harder than sic. I have no idea how it would work
@@hidude2124 Yeah it's much harder but it still takes a bit to dish the glass. I've used it in the past but used SIC powder much more. Also used coarser CBN too.
Realize this is an old video but, I've got a Spyderco medium stone I've used tons now and can't seem to lap it back to (about) the factory finish. I've tried different grits of sandpaper and some 60 grit SIC powder. I'm always too coarse or totally smooth. What grit SIC powder would you recommend?
I can't really recommend a grit however don't see why something like 80 grit SIC wouldn't work. After you get it level just let the SIC powder break down into a finer grit and then work the 302m until you get the stone where you want it.
I recently ran a 302m over 80 sic ... and then 120... and found it to be overly smooth (didn't cut as well) ... plan on lapping it again and stopping at 80 sic.
@@Charlie-yx5gq try 60 or better yet 30 on one side and 60/80 on the other. 60 makes it alot coarser than the original finish but it cuts well. 120 where you dont let the grit break down and keep replacing and eventually you'll be closer to the original finish.
I have em' both and personally like the 302UF better (the size) but that's just a personal preference. Also the 306 is quite a bit more price wise and they only make them in the ultra fine.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY sorry last question, but is this process then that you would recommend for the 306uf stone? Because mine has those marks from the factory and I would like to get rid of them.
No trouble, ask away. The marks you're seeing on that stone is from the diamond cutter they use when finishing the stone, the process not only changes the grit of the ceramic stone to a slightly finer finish it also levels the stone. If you don't care for the marks you can of course lap the ceramic to your liking. Diamond IMO works best and something like a atoma 400-600 plate or dmt fine leaves a nice finish IMO similar to the factory maybe a tad finer.
Here is a quote from Sal Glesser the president of Spyderco: Our diamonds are a 400 mesh (measurable). Our gray stone is "medium". (Same material as fine but different carriers and heat treat). Our fine stone is fine. Our extra fine is a surface ground fine. If you like I can provide a link to his comments.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY if the surface were to be refined then you would need a CNC, and then the stones would be 100% plan ... unfortunately they are all bent
@@EumlOriginal When using the UF stones you can actually see the circular cutting wheel marks from the diamond cutting wheel. From what I know Spyderco has the stones made by a local company coors or corestek that also goes buy a few other names.
I just wish some day I would get a Spyderco bench stone from the factory that wasn't as straight, level and true as a cross-eyed drunk that decided to machine then out during an earthquake. One UF Spydie bench stone, from the factory, was concave *_(very badly_* on one side and had a slight convex bulge on the other with the corners on that side being too low. I can not, for the life of me, understand how they even did that... Now, granted, that one was very egregious, but virtually every bench stone from Spyderco I've had issues with. Triangle rods? Never an issue, strangely enough.
I ruined a dmt while flattening a spyderco double stuff a few years ago. Their ceramic is so hard it will humble you. You’ve given me the confidence to flatten my ultra fine so I can use it for straight razer honing, I was about to give up on it knowing what happened last time
I cheat now, I use a 4x36 SIC belt on a powered bench top sander for most of the work, eats right though em'. 🙂
If your razer isn't cutting it anymore you might want to replace the TIM. PTM7950 is quite good for direct die, and has excellent longevity.
@@guycxz I can’t tell if you’re kidding or not. I’m talking about straight razors that shave hair off of your face. Not a processor, but ptm7950, especially from Honeywell, is amazing as a phase change TIM, which is easy to work with, unlike things like gallium.
I've used a DMT to flatten a silicon carbide stone with no harm to the DMT plate so that's very impressive.
I have bought everything needed to do this modification. Will do this when it arrives. Thank you for sharing!
Nice, lmk how it goes.
The most important part about this video is that you said you did a lot of testing. That was important to me. Nice job man.
Now if you want something crazy to try out, try using that stone and a series of diamond sprays. Thats a weird sharpening progression I’m trying to play with.
Over the years I have tested different diamond sprays ceramic stones and seen pretty good results.
I would love to see a video on your Idahone ceramic rod. I could not find one in your uploads if it's there. Thanks and nice vids.
Thank you and will see what I can do. IMO Idahone makes the best ceramic rods.
Thanks for making this video. I’ve been thinking about doing this since you recommended it to me. This is kinda embarrassing but I’ve never bought any SiC powder or glass for lapping my stones 😬 I know it makes a big difference. Could you possibly point me in the right direction on where to source the stuff I need for this? I’ve heard the prices vary quite a bit on SiC powder.
You bet, thanks for watching. Well I got my SIC (a few bags) a while back from edgeproinc.com, I just took a look and looks like they have 60 grit SIC for $5 (they're in Oregon). You can get it off ebay and amazon too as far as I know and I think gritomatic carries it as well. If you need glass I would just check locally for 1/4" plate glass, normally pretty cheap.
NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY thanks so much 🙏 I look forward to seeing the results you get with the two different stones. Take care!
@@seff2318 Hey you bet and I'm really looking forward to using it.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY awesome video. You mentioned tempered glass, for this purpose would it matter if it’s tempered or not? Thanks for any advice!!!
@@dskiles5311 I use float glass but I don't see why that wouldn't work as long as it's nice and flat. Besides if you break it the glass will not be in large sharp pieces but in very small pieces.
Pretty damn smart mate 😁😁😁 as always one good video 😁
Thanks brother! :-)
Have you used it as a straight razor finisher? Looks like it'd be perfect.
Sorry for the very late reply, I tried the UF stone 8x3 a while back but not this one.
I have an older medium stone, and I find my new fine stone cuts alot more effectively. It’s almost as if the medium stone is too worn in. Any tips on how to make the medium stone as rough as possible? Thanks! :)
You've tried giving it a good cleaning, bar keep and some dish soap along with a stiff bristle brush normally are enough. Some loose SIC powder on glass will quickly rough up the stone as will a coarser diamond plate.
Thank you for your answer! :) I’ll try doing that, step by step.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I bought 60 grit SIC from Edge Pro and did what you did on my medium stone. I’m very happy with the result, the stone cuts extremely well, almost like my DMT course. I don’t understand why they don’t come like that from the factory. Thanks!
@@mh4392 Glad to hear and anytime man!
Great Video. My 302f also came with one side uneven, has some bumps. So I'm looking to try this. I don't have SIC powder or a cheap plate. Only Atomas. Do you think Atoma 140->400->1200 would have similar effects? Do you think the Atoma's would survive the process? thanks!
Yes should leave a nice finish and the diamond plates seem to leave the best finish on ceramic, other methods leave an almost glazed finish that doesn't cut well. If you get a chance let me know how it works for you.
unfortunately everytime i've used a diamond stone to lap the coorstek white fine ceramics. it doesnt do a good job polishing the stone, it usually glazes it. I've flattened and changed the surface on about 9 stones. You should try using synthetic diamond powder like SiC and then progress up to a 14K / 50K powder. It will keep its very subtle cutting action while not glazing
SIC is silicon carbide, diamond is much harder and should not glaze. Companies that manufacturer these stones use diamond cutters to finish them.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY yes. they cut them with diamond. No, because the diamond is not loose, it glazes and causes burnishing scratch patterns. SiC can be used. it would take forever. I have taken DMT bench stones to the face of spydercos without success(yes it cuts and can be used to lap flat). IMO because the UF is cut with a diamond saw, it already feels glazed, which is why most say it only polishes, plus they are never actually flat even on the saw cut sides. I own 9 different coorstek ceramic stones and even if you keep the UF the way it is. its not flat. Majority of the straight razor community will attest to it. Take two to three hours flattening a fine with 140/170 diamond powder move up to 3K, then 14K - 50K powder on a glass lap and its way finer than just the saw cut...Plus now its actually flat and doing a better job for you.
@@captainmarvelous8739 They use a diamond cup wheel to flatten / resurface the UF stones, this is evident by the marks left on the stones and I've had a number of the UF stones and never seemed glazed to me. After being lapped on the diamond plate there was no glazing on the stone, I have used the finer diamond powder you mention however it didn't seem to leave the finish I was after. No the UF isn't perfectly flat from the spyderco but much flatter than the fine stones 302f. Shouldn't take quite that long to get a ceramic perfectly level, 30-45min from SIC powder to diamond as shown and leaves an approx. 1-2 mic finish. If you use the finer powder and it's to your liking then stick with it.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I fully feel you on the UF being flatter. I only lapped one side of my 302uf and it was quite a bit flatter out the gate...its the 80's version fine ones that took me alot more time. Have you flattened any of the fines with SiC? I guess the last two i used SiC with, I used to make the surface more aggressive so I had to be sure it didnt break down as I dont have a 30/60/80 in diamond... Maybe its the older ones that can be a bit worse warped. Ive seen it in about 6 of the fines from the 80's when they were still coors ceramics and holy crap its alot of work to get them flattened on both sides
@@captainmarvelous8739 Not sure if you're referring to a different ceramic, if I remember correctly the first Spyderco ceramic bench stones came out around 04'-05'. I purchased a set when they first came out and are still being made basically the same way.
I found lapping the Uf and F stones, you can take them too fine of a finish. Mine stopped cutting, and started burnishing. Watching your end results, it appears you are close to that burnishing effect. Have you noticed this in your testing?
Hey Jef, depending on what I used to lap the ceramics I did notice moderate to even complete burnishing or glazing of the stone. This would result is a very slick feeling surface that wouldn't cut properly. I can say with certainty there is literally no burnishing or glazing of the fine stone, it literally looks and feels the same as the UF from the factory just a tad finer. I think that by doing the brunt of the work with SIC and then using the diamond plate just to remove a very thin layer / resurface the stone is what gives the best results. If you do start to finish with say one diamond stone that IMO seems to somewhat glaze or burnish the surface. I have used the resurfaced side quite a bit now and isn't changing just smoothing out a tad just as the UF does from the factory and still cuts really well and leaves an amazing edge. The plate I used feels/looks (under magnification) somewhere in between a coarse and fine DMT. And yes I think that if I used an even finer diamond to refinish the 302f stone it wouldn't cut properly, where it's at right now is IMO at the limit of the stone.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Yea I watched your diamond lapping. I used my Atoma plate to lap my uf stone once, and didn't like the results. Of course I only used the 140 plate. Ended up taking it back to the Sic on glass, to about 600 grit. That leaves a nice finish that breaks in well. Ceramics are fun to experiment with. I have seen my uf stone get as coarse as the medium, and so fine it just burnishes. Many different levels of conditioning that can be explored.
@@Jef Great topic of discussion. I've recently been thinking how much I love the aggressive edge I get off my Spyderco Goldstone when doing a microbevel using the stone's radiused edges. It seems it's finished coarser than the flats are and thus gives a more aggressive edge than even the medium stones do even though it's rated as "fine" grit.
This makes me wonder, has anyone experimented with getting coarser finishes for more aggressive sharpening action as well as coarser, more aggressive edges for better slicing cuts in things like cardboard and rope? Love to hear what you or anyone has tried out!
Excuse me could I do the same with a pocket ceramic stone because that what I did and thier was a noticable difference in feel the side I use the pocket stone on flet smoother and softer to touch.
Are you talking about a pocket ceramic stone from spyderco?
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Yes I am ,the one with fine and coarse/medium sides
@@tompossessed1729 Far as I know the same just smaller size so I don't see why not. Do you have any diamond plates?
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I don't have any dimond plates that the reason I ask about using pocket stones but thanks for confirming it can be done with the pocket stone
Doesn`t the SiC powder damage the glass plate and make it uneven?
You bring up a good point. Yes, SIC powder especially the coarser stuff will eat into the glass so you have to keep an eye on it. I normally flip it over and use the other side and once that's dished I will discard and get a fresh piece. The glass will last quite a while if using finer grit powder and lower force.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Yeah, was wondering how to deal with that. I am still using sandpaper for flattening at the moment but looking into more efficient methods. Pondering getting an Atoma 140 for flattening my stones, both the Shapton Pro's and my Oilstones are pretty hard and the Sandpaper didn't really work too well for them xD
@@ArikGST Hard to beat Atoma plates, very good quality. I would recommend adding a higher grit Atoma too if you plan on lapping higher grit stones 2k and above as the 140 will leave superficial scratches. The scratches will come out over time with some use though.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY Thanks as always. I am waiting on one of my auctions on ebay, afterwards I`ll be able to afford at least the 140 Atoma, and then when I get more funds I´ll add the 400. Honestly I wanna get the full Atoma Set but that`s like 300Euro, so I`ll have to get them one by one.
Totally different topic. I just ordered a Norton Crystolon and I plan to get an Arkansas Translucent as the finishing stone for that. How would you flatten an Arkansas stone?
excellent video, i completed 302uf treatment both sides with DMT, then one side also with STARCKE MATADOR from P360 up to ST5000 for full glaze. both sides are now dead flat with very different surface properties (and performance) and, of course, much smoother, finer, slower-cutting than original Spyderco finish; i didn't go the SiC powder route. yet the ultimate (and most expensive) whetstone is geman man-made ruby which I'm gonna review in detail on B/F. 250US$ shipped from Gesswein ouch hh😇
I think you mentioned a 1-2 micron finish in a post of yours when you sharpened maxamet. Is this the 1-2 micron finish?
Yes, I'd say it's roughly 1-2mic on the finished side. This of course is an estimate having used these stones for years and being very familiar with the feel and finish they produce.
Wouldn’t coarse diamond powder shed the glass?
You Mean SIC powder?
The abrasives on glass will wear it out eventually and dish it so you have to watch for that.
NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY in the video you said you wish you had coarse diamond powder (to Lapp with instead of sic). Idk diamond is so much harder than sic. I have no idea how it would work
@@hidude2124 Yeah it's much harder but it still takes a bit to dish the glass. I've used it in the past but used SIC powder much more. Also used coarser CBN too.
Hey I have 3 factory 2nds coming in the mail, is there anything I can do to help you test
Thanks and sorry for the late reply, been taking a break from the old youtube lol. I will keep this in mind though!!
Realize this is an old video but, I've got a Spyderco medium stone I've used tons now and can't seem to lap it back to (about) the factory finish. I've tried different grits of sandpaper and some 60 grit SIC powder. I'm always too coarse or totally smooth. What grit SIC powder would you recommend?
Man been so long for the med I cannot remember what grit SIC I used, I normally takes notes so if I can find them I'll be sure to share them with you.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY thank you
What SiC powder would you finish with to get the F and UF finish without using diamond plates?
To be honest I'm not sure, would have to experiment a little with different SIC grits.
If you want to flatten the medium bench stone, what grit would you recommend? Thanks for this video, very informative
I can't really recommend a grit however don't see why something like 80 grit SIC wouldn't work. After you get it level just let the SIC powder break down into a finer grit and then work the 302m until you get the stone where you want it.
I recently ran a 302m over 80 sic ... and then 120... and found it to be overly smooth (didn't cut as well)
... plan on lapping it again and stopping at 80 sic.
@@Charlie-yx5gq try 60 or better yet 30 on one side and 60/80 on the other. 60 makes it alot coarser than the original finish but it cuts well. 120 where you dont let the grit break down and keep replacing and eventually you'll be closer to the original finish.
what if I purchase two of them and rub them together?
Will I get a mirror finish?
Not sure I follow you.
Would you recommend the 302 spyderco stones or 306 stone?
I have em' both and personally like the 302UF better (the size) but that's just a personal preference. Also the 306 is quite a bit more price wise and they only make them in the ultra fine.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY sorry last question, but is this process then that you would recommend for the 306uf stone? Because mine has those marks from the factory and I would like to get rid of them.
No trouble, ask away. The marks you're seeing on that stone is from the diamond cutter they use when finishing the stone, the process not only changes the grit of the ceramic stone to a slightly finer finish it also levels the stone. If you don't care for the marks you can of course lap the ceramic to your liking. Diamond IMO works best and something like a atoma 400-600 plate or dmt fine leaves a nice finish IMO similar to the factory maybe a tad finer.
This glass have seen flatter days
Always check with straight edge to make sure the surface isn't too far gone.
Have u done this with the medium benchstone?
the medium stone is less dense so it is semi easier to do. Depending on how warped the stone is. They vary greatly
Fine and ultra-fine are not the same stones, I have both, and both have to grind plan ...
Spyderco is pretty bad at planning the stones
Here is a quote from Sal Glesser the president of Spyderco:
Our diamonds are a 400 mesh (measurable).
Our gray stone is "medium". (Same material as fine but different carriers and heat treat).
Our fine stone is fine.
Our extra fine is a surface ground fine.
If you like I can provide a link to his comments.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY
if the surface were to be refined then you would need a CNC, and then the stones would be 100% plan ...
unfortunately they are all bent
@@EumlOriginal When using the UF stones you can actually see the circular cutting wheel marks from the diamond cutting wheel. From what I know Spyderco has the stones made by a local company coors or corestek that also goes buy a few other names.
I just wish some day I would get a Spyderco bench stone from the factory that wasn't as straight, level and true as a cross-eyed drunk that decided to machine then out during an earthquake. One UF Spydie bench stone, from the factory, was concave *_(very badly_* on one side and had a slight convex bulge on the other with the corners on that side being too low. I can not, for the life of me, understand how they even did that... Now, granted, that one was very egregious, but virtually every bench stone from Spyderco I've had issues with. Triangle rods? Never an issue, strangely enough.