I have an American Luger that I got recently and I paid 1400$ for it, expecting it to come with its original box and spare magazine and it unfortunately did not. The dealer was such a slob, I asked if he had a case and he put my Luger in a goddamn plastic grocery bag. all that is tragic but I’m glad I found your quality work and I think I might do something like this myself. Thank you for sharing your experience!
Thank you for your comment, when you build your own case, I find it helpful to break the job down into small sections and write down a list of the operations that need to be done, in the order that they need to be done, good luck, Ken
Great video. Superb quality master workmanship. After my present project is complete, I want to start a wooden rifle case for a pristine 1st year production 1893 Marlin. Your outstanding work is both an inspiration and a great motivation. Most important to me is I would love to see how you stretched the velvet around the contours of the cut-out shape. Visuals would be most helpful to me to replace my guesswork. The barrel hinges, guide, and lock are great resources - thank you for that and demonstrating your master woodworking skills and your attention to minute details of quality.
What if you drilled from the bottom with a drill press set at the right depth before you cut the box into . Instead of cut that piece out for the hinges . Then glue wood pegs in the hole that’s made from the same kind of wood ?
That would also work, it is just an esthetic choice on my part because I feel that the horizontal joint at the back of the case is less noticeable.. also if you wanted to use the wood plugs you could evenly space them around the bottom as a design element, and then no one would know they were for the hinges. Ken.
@@kennethpaulwoodworking6404 thank you I would like to try making a gun case like that but I haven’t done any wood working since vocational school . You do great work !
@@paulmarion7578 Thank you for the kind words, all you really need for a box like this is access to a table saw. You could do everything with hand tools, but the table saw makes repeatable accuracy so much easier. Once you have your corners done, everything else is just cutting groves for the panels. You can go for a 45 degree corner or a rabbit joint. Just take your time and always keep the next step in mind. Ken
@@paulmarion7578 Hello, if you use the dimensions that I use - 16 1/8” x10” , then you would need 3 board feet or 3 linear feet of 1x12 for the lid and bottom. I mill my top and bottom down to about 3/8” thick but you can keep it the 3/4” thickness if you wish. If you buy your wood from a home center like Lowe’s or Home Depot it will be sold by the linear foot and will come finished milled to 3/4”. You will need 5 linear feet of 1”x6” for the sides or 3 board feet of 1”x6”. If you buy your lumber in the rough it will usually mill down to a finished thickness of 3/4”. Ken
Hello, if you are using 3/4” wood the14 mm soss hinges are what I use most often, on the pistol cases you could use the 10 mm also. Thank you for the comment. Ken
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Thanks, great tips, especially leaving a sixteenth while splitting the box! 👍
Nice looking box sir
Very nice box, you are very good with wood not so good with a camera.
I have an American Luger that I got recently and I paid 1400$ for it, expecting it to come with its original box and spare magazine and it unfortunately did not. The dealer was such a slob, I asked if he had a case and he put my Luger in a goddamn plastic grocery bag. all that is tragic but I’m glad I found your quality work and I think I might do something like this myself. Thank you for sharing your experience!
Thank you for your comment, when you build your own case, I find it helpful to break the job down into small sections and write down a list of the operations that need to be done, in the order that they need to be done, good luck, Ken
Beautiful work. It would be a great learning experience watching you work. Thanks for the video.
What a beautiful gun case great job !
I have several pistols that need boxes and this video will be a great help in making them. Thanks for posting!
Thank you for the comment and good luck on your cases. Kenny
Great video. Superb quality master workmanship. After my present project is complete, I want to start a wooden rifle case for a pristine 1st year production 1893 Marlin. Your outstanding work is both an inspiration and a great motivation. Most important to me is I would love to see how you stretched the velvet around the contours of the cut-out shape. Visuals would be most helpful to me to replace my guesswork. The barrel hinges, guide, and lock are great resources - thank you for that and demonstrating your master woodworking skills and your attention to minute details of quality.
Great looking gun case! Thanks for those tips, I'm looking to make one of these for my new Ruger Single action.
Hello, one of my upcoming projects is a case for a River Vaquero.
A very very nice job Indeed that makes the Mark 4 competition look just that much more exquisite
Thank you. Ken
Hi Ken, great tip on installing the barrel hinges
Glad to be of help. Ken.
You do beautiful work that is amazing !
Thank you for the kind comment, Ken
Wow, this is amazing! Thanks for the video
Beautiful art
Well done, sir!
Thank you. Ken.
Can you please show exactly how you make the cutouts for the pistol
To advanced for me to understand. But it is a beautiful box
Inlet. How in the world do you do that with such percision. No gaps. Perfection. I cannot find any information on that techniquie.
Cnc machine
@@oscarramos196 Wish i had one now.
What if you drilled from the bottom with a drill press set at the right depth before you cut the box into . Instead of cut that piece out for the hinges . Then glue wood pegs in the hole that’s made from the same kind of wood ?
That would also work, it is just an esthetic choice on my part because I feel that the horizontal joint at the back of the case is less noticeable.. also if you wanted to use the wood plugs you could evenly space them around the bottom as a design element, and then no one would know they were for the hinges. Ken.
@@kennethpaulwoodworking6404 thank you I would like to try making a gun case like that but I haven’t done any wood working since vocational school . You do great work !
@@paulmarion7578 Thank you for the kind words, all you really need for a box like this is access to a table saw. You could do everything with hand tools, but the table saw makes repeatable accuracy so much easier. Once you have your corners done, everything else is just cutting groves for the panels. You can go for a 45 degree corner or a rabbit joint. Just take your time and always keep the next step in mind. Ken
@@kennethpaulwoodworking6404 about how many board feet would I need to get and is it 3/4. “ thick when finished ?
@@paulmarion7578 Hello, if you use the dimensions that I use - 16 1/8” x10” , then you would need 3 board feet or 3 linear feet of 1x12 for the lid and bottom. I mill my top and bottom down to about 3/8” thick but you can keep it the 3/4” thickness if you wish. If you buy your wood from a home center like Lowe’s or Home Depot it will be sold by the linear foot and will come finished milled to 3/4”. You will need 5 linear feet of 1”x6” for the sides or 3 board feet of 1”x6”. If you buy your lumber in the rough it will usually mill down to a finished thickness of 3/4”. Ken
Great work...What size barrel hinges did you use?
Hello, if you are using 3/4” wood the14 mm soss hinges are what I use most often, on the pistol cases you could use the 10 mm also. Thank you for the comment. Ken
Curious on what size of barrel hinges used
How did you cut the pistol outer shape?