Short and sweet like many others have said! I am reminded that there are many ways to get to the same goal. I used different advice for my last project, and it also worked. Same surface prep. Also used the right brush. Slightly thinned the poly (10% mineral spirits) in a separate container. Loaded up the brush, and "draw" the brush slowly, in one direction, non-stop, very wet coat. Do not "paint" back and forth. Then the usual - let it cure, smooth it (sand or steel wool), clean, and apply the next coat. I am impressed that your instructions also obviously work. Reminds me to keep an open mind. Thanks!
THANK YOU for a tutorial video that gets to the point! A lot was said in 2 minutes that would have taken most of these channels 20 minutes to say. Great Job and thank you!
I disagreed with his use of steel wool.... it leaves oxidation and black on the wood.... You chose very wisely to use 200 grit sandpaper.... I have used that for years.... never steel wool....
I really appreciate how accessible and concise this was. I'm so glad I watched because I was about to stir the polyurethane with a power drill and apply it outside without considering all the air-born debris. Now I know better
Great tutorial. Thank you. I applied 3 thin coats on a small stained piece (rookie here) and I could see how uneven it was. I sanded it down lightly and reapplied a thicker coat with a foam brush and it came out just right. I can’t get paint laid down right, either. Thin coat, thick coat, all the coats… Quality brushes and paint. I suppose practice is key. Going to watch a few more of your videos. Thanks again
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Love it! Short into the point! Also, unlike many other TH-camrs, you didn’t give the easy way, you gave the “ care” method. It will take longer but this is what I was looking for.
You answered some of my questions. Thinner coats are better than a thicker coat that levels out. One thing you didn't mention is if you're using water based finish, using steel wool can cause bits of rust. I'm not using steel wool. I'm using 240 grit on a random orbit sander between coats. On the final coats I'm going for the 600 and then 3000 for a mirror like finish on this fireplace mantel. I have to agree, the brush makes a difference. Another guy on a video said to soak your brush in mineral spirits first and that will get rid of most of the bubbles. Also, to mix your poly 3 to 1 with mineral spirits. Takes more coats but less bubbles. Dollartree has a little pint pitcher that has the gradation marks on it. Perfect to mix up a small batch of finish without needing additional measuring.
@@kuyasong9271 , mineral spirits is also known as white spirit in the UK, it is a refined petroleum product much as paint thinner is a refined petroleum paint product. You can mix it in oil finishes to thin them, brush cleaning. It is clear slightly oily substance that evaporates fairly quickly.
I agree with not using steel wool with water base poly. It specifically says on the can also. Says not to use one coat poly over red stains like red mahogany. Instead use fast dry
@@kuyasong9271its petroleum based distillates. If you live in the us, you can go to any hardware store and pick up a can of it. It literally says "Mineral Spirits" on the label
I mixed a 50/50 with mineral spirts this and used a good brush. That first coat looked great. The wood grain popped but after I sanded with 220 lightly and added a 2nd coat, I got random dryspots?!?! How can I fix that? Do I need to start over?
a damp rag with water will raise the grain on open grained woods. if you don't want to raise the grain, a micro cloth towel dampened w mineral spirits will also remove the fine dust, but the mineral spirits won't raise the grain.
If I'm applying 15 coats of oil based poly to a outdoor project. Do I sand in-between every coat? And after 1 coat. Can I reapply 4 hours later then repeat the 2 step process every 24 hours?
Thing about using a damp rag, if you haven’t already water popped it you’ll raise the grain. Make sure to always water pop. Or sand between poly but water popping is always better imo.
What's the process on the steel wool..I can't find any other videos that use steel wools between (instead of like 400 grit sandpaper). Do you just lightly run across it to smooth it or?
Since I posted the comment about this I have used a lot of polyurethane and I have found that the little 2” foam brushes from Home Depot work the best, they leave no bubbles and leave a really nice and level swipe of the brush. I’ve tried the brushes made specifically for polyurethane and it seems the foam brushes still work better for me
Make wipe on poly. Mix 3 parts poly, 1 part thinner or whatever its called. Burnout moment. Oh yeah mineral spirits. I dont know if its the same thing as thinner.
I spent five hours sanding a piece to start over because I was laying it on thick (and it never got in tacky) based on other videos. Going to try the thin method this time.
- What about the gas or vacuum that is supposed to be between the 2 panes of glass? What thickness is the glass in a double-paned window? Do all double-paned windows have the same gap between the 2 panes of glass? What is the distance between the panes of glass supposed to be? I need specific details on all of the required components! Please and thank you. Thank you. ~ Jeremy ~
If you use water on a rag to remove the fine dust, you're also going to "pop" the grain which will require a follow up sanding, so that's bad advice. You should also stir the poly and never shake it. Shaking of any kind will lead to bubbles.
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at th-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/w-d-xo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at th-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/w-d-xo.html. Works every time.
I never use a bristle brush of any kind applying polyurethane clear. I only use foam brushes. They do not leave lines that have to be sanded out, and the foam acts as a very convenient dispenser when you blot the surface at regular intervals, and then use the brush to even distribute the product over perhaps a dozen passes in each direction with the grain. 3-4 coats with 220 or finer automotive grade sanding between coats and it will look like glass. Bristle brushes are inferior, and it's just a fact. It's a marketing tactic.
I strongly disagree, it's much more likely to make bubbles in coating using foam brushes, especially if you're a beginner (obviously these are beginner tips).
Oh, please! He's slapping that brush around like he's painting some old fence. You think those brush marks aren't going to show? Notice he doesn't show the board after it's dried? Give me a break.
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Short and sweet like many others have said! I am reminded that there are many ways to get to the same goal. I used different advice for my last project, and it also worked. Same surface prep. Also used the right brush. Slightly thinned the poly (10% mineral spirits) in a separate container. Loaded up the brush, and "draw" the brush slowly, in one direction, non-stop, very wet coat. Do not "paint" back and forth. Then the usual - let it cure, smooth it (sand or steel wool), clean, and apply the next coat. I am impressed that your instructions also obviously work. Reminds me to keep an open mind. Thanks!
Thanks for making this a 2 minute video and not a 10 minute video
THANK YOU for a tutorial video that gets to the point! A lot was said in 2 minutes that would have taken most of these channels 20 minutes to say. Great Job and thank you!
THANKS Helped me out! 2 thin coats and working it in is the way to go! Except I lighty did 220 sandpaper after first coat..Turned out beautiful!!!
I disagreed with his use of steel wool.... it leaves oxidation and black on the wood.... You chose very wisely to use 200 grit sandpaper.... I have used that for years.... never steel wool....
I really appreciate how accessible and concise this was. I'm so glad I watched because I was about to stir the polyurethane with a power drill and apply it outside without considering all the air-born debris. Now I know better
Great tutorial. Thank you. I applied 3 thin coats on a small stained piece (rookie here) and I could see how uneven it was. I sanded it down lightly and reapplied a thicker coat with a foam brush and it came out just right. I can’t get paint laid down right, either. Thin coat, thick coat, all the coats… Quality brushes and paint. I suppose practice is key. Going to watch a few more of your videos.
Thanks again
Foam brushes are absolutely superior for applying thinner-consistency clear coats. You were right on the money there.
Is this after painting to sand down
You have a good, teaching mind. Not everyone has that. I appreciate how thorough you were in this video.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
Love it! Short into the point! Also, unlike many other TH-camrs, you didn’t give the easy way, you gave the “ care” method. It will take longer but this is what I was looking for.
This method actually takes less time.
Thank you. If I had known this I would have saved myself a lot of time trouble this past week!
amazing how a short 2 min video can answer all your questions
STRAIGHT TO THE HOW TO LOVE IT🤙🏻
,zinc oxide is it a hazard to human
You answered some of my questions. Thinner coats are better than a thicker coat that levels out. One thing you didn't mention is if you're using water based finish, using steel wool can cause bits of rust.
I'm not using steel wool. I'm using 240 grit on a random orbit sander between coats. On the final coats I'm going for the 600 and then 3000 for a mirror like finish on this fireplace mantel.
I have to agree, the brush makes a difference. Another guy on a video said to soak your brush in mineral spirits first and that will get rid of most of the bubbles. Also, to mix your poly 3 to 1 with mineral spirits. Takes more coats but less bubbles. Dollartree has a little pint pitcher that has the gradation marks on it. Perfect to mix up a small batch of finish without needing additional measuring.
Wat is a mineral spirit?
@@kuyasong9271 , mineral spirits is also known as white spirit in the UK, it is a refined petroleum product much as paint thinner is a refined petroleum paint product. You can mix it in oil finishes to thin them, brush cleaning. It is clear slightly oily substance that evaporates fairly quickly.
I agree with not using steel wool with water base poly. It specifically says on the can also. Says not to use one coat poly over red stains like red mahogany. Instead use fast dry
@@matthewadams7585my oil based says not to use it either
@@kuyasong9271its petroleum based distillates. If you live in the us, you can go to any hardware store and pick up a can of it. It literally says "Mineral Spirits" on the label
I mixed a 50/50 with mineral spirts this and used a good brush. That first coat looked great. The wood grain popped but after I sanded with 220 lightly and added a 2nd coat, I got random dryspots?!?! How can I fix that? Do I need to start over?
a damp rag with water will raise the grain on open grained woods. if you don't want to raise the grain, a micro cloth towel dampened w mineral spirits will also remove the fine dust, but the mineral spirits won't raise the grain.
Yup, that's how I do it... A tack cloth is good too, but takes a bit to get the right technique down (too much pressure is bad).
Can you you use Paint Thinner or Rubbing Alcohol??
Steel wool can leave residue that turns to rust
If I'm applying 15 coats of oil based poly to a outdoor project. Do I sand in-between every coat? And after 1 coat. Can I reapply 4 hours later then repeat the 2 step process every 24 hours?
What would you use or how would you clean that brush? Just so it can be reused again
Thing about using a damp rag, if you haven’t already water popped it you’ll raise the grain. Make sure to always water pop. Or sand between poly but water popping is always better imo.
What's "water popping?"
What's the process on the steel wool..I can't find any other videos that use steel wools between (instead of like 400 grit sandpaper). Do you just lightly run across it to smooth it or?
I’ve never used polyurethane, this video was nice and straight to the point! Can you use a rag instead of a brush to apply it?
use wipe on poly if you want to use rags. Should be lint free
Since I posted the comment about this I have used a lot of polyurethane and I have found that the little 2” foam brushes from Home Depot work the best, they leave no bubbles and leave a really nice and level swipe of the brush. I’ve tried the brushes made specifically for polyurethane and it seems the foam brushes still work better for me
Make wipe on poly. Mix 3 parts poly, 1 part thinner or whatever its called. Burnout moment. Oh yeah mineral spirits. I dont know if its the same thing as thinner.
I appreciate the video, but I have always had better luck stirring the poly and not shaking it
I spent five hours sanding a piece to start over because I was laying it on thick (and it never got in tacky) based on other videos. Going to try the thin method this time.
This was very helpful thank u!
Thank you I am going to put it on a chalk project outside furniture.
This helped me a lot! Thanks!! I just uploaded a video where I stripped a painted teak table. Such a satisfying project! Keep up the good work ✌🏻
How long do you let it dry before sanding/steel wool?
Can it be use for exterior like for Window seals or faser boards and wooden window frames please tell
Glad I watch you video first ❤❤
I hear that I should never shake the polyurethane can, but always stir the polyurethane. Won't shaking give the same results as stirring?
I haven’t used it yet but on the can of poly I have it says shaking can cause bubbles
How long should I wait between coats?
Does this need sanding afterwards?
Yeah, that’s what we wanna do after sanding it meticulously for 10 days. We want to get a wet rag and wipe the wood with it to raise the grain up.
Cool I want all my doors cabinets polyurethane in house
Can you clean and reuse the brush for polyurethane?
yes, you can put it in mineral spirits to clean it. i prefer to use those dollar foam brushes. not sure why it wasnt recommended here.
First time I applied poly on, I put on a nice big puddle & I spread it like it was acrylic…cabinets came out extremely glossy 🤦♂️
How do you mix the can? There is a bunch of gunk at the bottom. Do I just mix it like paint or what?
With a paint stick
EXspecially...
Can we use Cloth Pouch??
Can be use spray gun?
Thanks for the time and effort but real world application (pun) we are going to be hitting those edges and managing runs.....
Great video! 👏🏻👍🏻
-
What about the gas or vacuum that is supposed to be between the 2 panes of glass?
What thickness is the glass in a double-paned window?
Do all double-paned windows have the same gap between the 2 panes of glass? What is the distance between the panes of glass supposed to be?
I need specific details on all of the required components! Please and thank you.
Thank you.
~ Jeremy ~
great tips !! Thank you.
If you use water on a rag to remove the fine dust, you're also going to "pop" the grain which will require a follow up sanding, so that's bad advice. You should also stir the poly and never shake it. Shaking of any kind will lead to bubbles.
Really upset you didnt show us the steel wool demonstration..
So it’s ok for a cornhole set
Great!
Green scotchbrite pad works better than steel wool.
Thanks.
My brand new Purdy dropped hair all into my coats!
Can I use japan dryer with clear satin poly?
Japan dryer is more for those oil based products.
@@WoodworkingWarrior Would it work on an oil based poly such as varathane?
@@ocotillodavid2296 yes
@@WoodworkingWarrior thanks
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years.
See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at th-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/w-d-xo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at th-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/w-d-xo.html. Works every time.
Great tips 👍
i would think using 400 grit sandpaper would be better than the steel wool
I used 400 with no issues
I never use a bristle brush of any kind applying polyurethane clear. I only use foam brushes. They do not leave lines that have to be sanded out, and the foam acts as a very convenient dispenser when you blot the surface at regular intervals, and then use the brush to even distribute the product over perhaps a dozen passes in each direction with the grain. 3-4 coats with 220 or finer automotive grade sanding between coats and it will look like glass. Bristle brushes are inferior, and it's just a fact. It's a marketing tactic.
I strongly disagree, it's much more likely to make bubbles in coating using foam brushes, especially if you're a beginner (obviously these are beginner tips).
No shaking 😊
"Eckspecially"
Home boys slapping poly on some CDX
Wetting the wood with damp cloth will raise the grain which you have to sand. 😂
A vicious cycle with no end in sight😂
Thx
Good info. I just use my HVLP, much easier.
Oh, please! He's slapping that brush around like he's painting some old fence. You think those brush marks aren't going to show? Notice he doesn't show the board after it's dried? Give me a break.
From my experience, those brush marks will layout/flowout pretty evenly.
Cant agree more
@@HungPham-ki9wuwont using the steel wool between coats potentially cause rust to show up?
@@daveortwine2641no
I can see air bubbles EVERYWHERE! 🤦♂️
To be fair, a lot of them pop. Having said that, he seemed to be going pretty quick and rough over the tread.
1:05 EXPECIALLY