Good video. I refinish for a living and miniwax has the best polyurethane for the money. Dries 2-3 times faster then varathane and others. The best advice for DIYers is speed and don’t go back over an area you’ve already done. You want to be spreading tons of the finish on top as you go and pulling it level. Airplane landing and taking off brush stroke for the last strokes on that area. Lastly like he does wipe up drips on edges I usually make two passes. Immediately after finishing a section and then lastly all the way around. Never try to brush or add more poly to an area that has been sitting for more than a few minutes. It will pull it back up and you won’t be able to recover until next coat. Get a good light source pointing towards you like a desk lamp. It helps to see reflection and all the imperfections. You’ll need it after that first coat.
@@arnoldbioursckii6639 Easy to slip on and off so I dont drag stain and crud in the house and hey they comfortable to work in all day. As you can tell by my shop and choice of clothing I am about function and comfort over style.
I appreciate that he showed much of the process without jump cuts then used speed for the repetitive parts. Also love that he got busy without a ton of jabber. Great video.
Absolutely STELLAR job! That's a showroom piece right there! Thanks for the lesson. You explained some of the mistakes I made on my first wood-finishing project. I'm looking forward to my second one now.
I’ve watched about a dozen videos trying to build up my confidence before I do my countertops. This is THE BEST video I’ve watched. I’m ready to go now. Thank you.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I've never thought about the wet and dry sandpaper. Adding the sponge excellent idea thanks for sharing bro, By for now Ken I look forward to hear from you.
I’m impressed that the episode includes additional information that reflects viewers questions and input, the sign of a professional who cares about accuracy. Good job, dude!
I love the glass finish I seen this done on cars but never thought about doing it on furniture. I need to try it out thank you for such great advice I love your tips you give thanks 🙏
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I had some small pieces (wood vases) that had little nibs on them after applying Polyurethane. Lightly sanded with 1000 Grit.....Bingo, smooth as silk.
WOW Wet sand!! Great tip! I am polyurethaning a butcherblock top for the trailer, right now. None of the videos I've watched said to "wet sand". I just dry sanded the bottom. Just did the first top coat, I'm going to wet sand it, now!! Thanks! (Oil base, hope that doesn't matter.) Cheers!
Thanks for explaining how to get that shiny finish, I am working with a polyurethane product and I am looking at a matte finish. I will try your 1,000 grit wet sand. Thanks for the INFO.
Good to finally see someone else using Minwax Oil based Gloss Poly. Been using that for 30 years. Tired of seeing people on other channels with their satin finished Polycrylic, saying how great it looks. Yea, looks good for a hack job. Once you master oil based gloss, everything else just looks like crap.
Excellent video. I am going to try that wet sanding technique. Minwax gets a lot of hate online but I have always had good luck with their stains and polyurethanes. As another comment said for the price nothing comes close. There are some very nice wiping varnishes but they are quadruple the price.
Do you have a video where you break down what you are doing from 00:00 to 00:40 ? I have my own method how to do all that. But I'm curious of your exact process, reasoning and tools 👍
Many of my older build videos demonstrate how I strip and stain wood to achieve various looks. However, I don't have a single video dedicated to just that process, as there are numerous methods I use depending on the desired finish for each piece.
*How's it going, Excellent idea using the Wet and Dry Sandpaper* *and A spray bottle.* I use the use 320, I usually will do 3 Coats or just put on one heavy coat, Then I'll do my standing, Then go over that with a Rattle can of Polly for my finish.
I always enjoy your content and seeing how you transform different pieces of furniture, but I found this concise and particularly informative as well. I know this is an older video, but thought I’d let you know your content endures. Keep up the great work. This helped me as I’m applying finish to a coffee table I refurbished. Appreciate it!
Fantastic tip! I've always wet sanded my paint to get a smooth glass like finish but never my top coat. Not sure why I didn't think of that before but I'll try it now! And the tip for dipping the brush lightly in mineral spirits is a great one too!
Did you wet sand again after the final coat? And did you do any buffing? I’m putting down my final coat tonight and am just curious. Thanks for the rest of the tips though
Great channel 👍 appreciate the time you take to explain all the tips and tricks and your down to earth disposition. I'm a fan guys keep posting ill be watching 🇨🇦
Great video. Very informative. I used this technique and had fantastic results. I think I added to much Dawn. I would like to know how much soap to water he used in his spray bottle..
Hey nice video and you were bang ON with the issues that many of us face, I need your help and yes have gone through all the 200 comments below but it’s not discussed anywhere. So here I am refinishing my dinning table and I have already done 2 poly coats and yes followed your method of wet sanding and knocking of the bumps, I am using water based Varathane triple coat poly and I am no where close to glass like finish as of now, I also read in one of your comments that it’s not possible with water based poly. I would really appreciate if you can please help me as this is a very precious table for my family and I really want to bring it back to life.
Yeah I don’t like the triple thick poly at all! It’s so hard to work with. If you want it to look like the top you see here you need to strip it back down and use oil base. Water base is going to look like plastic when oil will look like glass. I wish I had a better answer for you since I know you have put so much work in already.
It mostly serves to help the water to suspend the sanded-off particles, and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up. A final wipe with a wet cloth, to remove any traces of the detergent, is a good idea between coats.
The newer stuff is low VOC. Didn’t really notice a heavy smell. It has a smell but not potent like if you used an aerosol can. If using oil base I can only recommend to do so over 72 deg. Any cooler it really just becomes a headache.
A very well informed video. It was as if you were reading my mind, any questions that popped up you gave an answer for it. I’ve been looking for a poly that was self leveling. So glad I found your channel. And now I’m on the hunt to find that 1k grit sandpaper!
Instead of using the 1000 grit sandpaper, would wet sanding with a blue Scotch-Brite kitchen cleaning pad work? Some people say it is similar to 1000 grit sandpaper.
I am rewatching this. Can i wet sand over a painted top or just a stained top? I bought the 1000 grit sandpaper....but i am afraid of trying it. Logically, i think i can...but.....
If it is dry yes you can. I do that before clear coating. If there is trash in the paint wet sanding may leaving a tiny un painting dot when it knocks the trash down since more then likely the paint is just sitting on top of it. Make since?
I only use it on furniture so by no means a expert on small stuff but I would say if it’s not a table top or dresser top that will see a lot of traffic then I would just use a can of spray lacquer or enamel.
You most definitely. Normally after the last coat it’s like glass but a buff would glass it out even more. I would wait a few days to a week to buff it just so you know it is fully harden.
I never know just how much poly to leave on the brush? I noticed you don't wipe off the brush? I am new to this but am very familiar with the wet sanding as my father was an auto body repair guy many many years ago, btw you do awesome work.
Question I saw a guy use mineral spirits on his sand paper to get ride of dust do you recommend that? Or just the water and soap method ?? I am having an issue with dust on my polyurethane finish
Can you finish polycrylic the same way? I have a ton of brush marks on my piece and I’ve sanded and recoated three times and just can’t get this glass like top. Any tips for water based polycrylic? My wife LOATHES the smell of polyurethane which is why I have to use polycrylic. Thank you, and awesome video!
Yes you can wet sand water base poly it is a much faster process since it dries fast. If you are getting brush strokes it’s either to warm when you are applying it or you are going back over it as it dries. Since it dries so quick you have to brush on and leave it be so it will settle and the brush strokes disappear. If it’s hot and dries to fast it won’t settle. Some people also use a top coat sponge as well but I have never had good luck with those. Water base poly also will not look like this top where it looks wet or like glass. Water base poly looks more kind of like plastic. I use water base on almost all my projects unless I need that shinny wet look.
Thank you for showing and explaining about the waiting times. Do you think this smooth top would be suitable for a computer desk, which will have monitor, mouse and keyboard?
Impressive. So would adding more coats give a deeper glass look finish? I currently use spraymax 2k clear on my car and cycle repairs and more coats means deeper look. But furniture clears are not the same. Heard from friends about your vids. Just trying to find my backbone to fix my wife's dining room table I ruined with car batt acid. 🙄
I have only done 3 to 5 coats so not really sure. I would assume you would get to a point where it would look very amber color like it does in the can with enough coats.
Sanding between coats with water and dish soap - does the presence of the dish soap become a bond breaker or cause any negative bonding to further coats? Do you have to additionally wash or rinse the soap off?
Not at all this technique has been used for 40 years on automotive paint and you see the results here on all of my pieces. I normally just wipe it clean with a dry cloth between coats, but you can also wipe it down with mineral spirits between coats as well.
I've been trying to do my coffee table, first time I didn't sand in between coats. Then I used 220 on an orbital between coats and got swirl scratches. So the wet sanding, lightly in grain direction makes sense. Time to sand it all back down and try again.
220 is very aggressive - only necessary if you have a seriously rough surface, or a major defect to remove. You'll need to work your way up through higher grits if you're going to get out the scratches that it leaves behind. Use 500, then 1000, going with the grain on the 1000.
I wish I caught your video sooner...lol.. I just sanded and stained my Dining table! My stain is blotchy and look like crap, I did it for like two days and refuse to do it again... I just laid the first layer of polyurethane and should do a video of what not to do 😠!! But your video is a light at the end of the tunnel because i can fix it 😁.. Screw the stain job. I'm gonna count a glossy table as a win! Thanks B2B! 👍
What color is that stain? Is that miniwax oil-based prep? Plan to stain pine staircase and oak banisters. Any tips would be appreciated. Great technique!
Kona is the stain. There is a link to all the products I use in the description of the video. I'm not sure what oil base prep is. I use pre-stain on some of my pieces if I am worried it may be blotchy. I have never done stairs. I would think you would want a hardcore poly for that being high traffic. The stuff you have seen me do is just self taught so I am by no means a expert. I just show the way I do it. Doesn't mean it is the best way or right way to do it lol. Just my way I do my pieces.
How high of a grit do you sand the wood too before you stain? I did a desktop to 220 grit came out nice but I used a semi gloss polyurethane. It has a shine but not like glass. I am going to build my dining table next but I want that nice glossy glass look on it.
What would you think about using 000 steel wool instead of wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper? I've always used 000 steel wool (except when the store supply is gone, then I use 0000 with extra pressure).
I know that is the old school way. I have always dealt with that steel wool dust and deeper groves from using hand and finger pressure. The pad is more precise. Body shop guys have been using this method for a long time on auto clear coats. I just applied it to poly.
Also could you use poly over the top of painted laminate surfaces to protect from chipping? I recently used the laminate paint for my bench tops followed all instructions but now I’m finding little bits of chips and feel in needs some kind of extra top coat of something to protect it
I was looking for tricks I could use on guitar clear coats. On a guitar it's common to sand and polish, and sometimes wax and / or oil after the last coat of poly. The reflections go from blurry to razor sharp like looking in a mirror. From where you stopped, I'd wet sand with 2000, then buff with Turtle Wax polishing compound on a foam pad on a drill, then hand wax and polish with Johnson paste wax, then rub down and polish with mineral oil. If you can prevent contaminants, you don't need to sand between coats. You just have to build up enough poly to not sand through it when you sand it level at the end. Just build up your coats, sand it flat, sand to 2000 or so, polish, wax, and oil.
About the same thing we do on cars to get a glass finish. 1000, 1500, 2000, courses buffing wheel and cutting compound then a wool buffing wheel and wax.
Thanks for this video! I have been restoring my Grandmother's 1916 Victrola, and I have had a tough time with the poly stage. Your instruction will really help me get the cabinet looking nice. Thanks!
I hate putting top coats on. I always screw it up! I have the buffet from heck! I am using PolyAcrylic. Now I have brush marks. Or to me they look more like scratches. But I was hardly pressing on 1500 sandpaper with water/soap like you said. I actually applied it with a stain pad . I am not redoing it again! But I don’t know what to do. Maybe my lighting is too good so I see all my flaws. 😂
The only way you could have scratch marks wet sanding with 1500 is if there was debris on the surface or the sandpaper. I always recommend applying with a brush. Put it on and let it settle. It has self leveling properties so the brush strokes disappear. Unless it’s to hot and drying while applying or you brush over it to much while it’s getting tacky. Applying to thin can also cause brush strokes due to the thin coat drying fast. Poly acrylic is great because it dries so fast but at the same time you have to work fast.
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
That is a tough one. I have never tried putting oil base or lacquer on top of a water base stain product. I have done water base poly on stop of oil base stain but never the other way around. I do know if you have to start sanding on top of stain it can get pretty bad fast. So unfortunately this time I don’t really have a good answer for you. Sorry 😕
@@DeanFurnitureArtist No probs, mate, thank you for the reply anyway. Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind. As the oil base poly over water base stain is concerned - it worked well, so it can be definitely done this way. I think as soon as the water is gone, the dry pigment in the wood doesn't create any nasty stuff (in fact, anything at all) in contact with oil base poly.
It does not matter wet sanding but two very different looks and apply method. Water base will look more plastic while oil base looks wet or like glass. Water base also drys in minutes where oil base can take hours to dry and days to fully harden.
I hope this works on my old cedar chest its so old and dark now but Im going to sand it back to original wood and start it from scratch I tried a regular sander but it hardly looked like it removed anything so need something more stronger or different grit?.But want it to shine like new when done.
If you watch some of my other videos you will see I use a special scraper to get the poly of old pieces when a sander with not. I also use paint remover at times as well.
This Old House has a TH-cam video on applying oil-based poly to wood. They say never use a foam brush for poly. It’s because foam brushes hold air bubbles. Use a China bristle brush instead. China bristle is a natural material made from hog hair. That’s what you need for oil-based poly. Also make sure the brush label says that you can use the brush for stains and polyurethanes.
I have a butcher block island new .I just would like to finish it natural . Would I sand it first and then pre stain conditioner . Sand again but what do I do next .
Good video. I refinish for a living and miniwax has the best polyurethane for the money. Dries 2-3 times faster then varathane and others. The best advice for DIYers is speed and don’t go back over an area you’ve already done. You want to be spreading tons of the finish on top as you go and pulling it level. Airplane landing and taking off brush stroke for the last strokes on that area. Lastly like he does wipe up drips on edges I usually make two passes. Immediately after finishing a section and then lastly all the way around. Never try to brush or add more poly to an area that has been sitting for more than a few minutes. It will pull it back up and you won’t be able to recover until next coat. Get a good light source pointing towards you like a desk lamp. It helps to see reflection and all the imperfections. You’ll need it after that first coat.
All great info. Thanks!
Cool video, cool tattoos. Cool hair…But Crox…really
@@arnoldbioursckii6639 Easy to slip on and off so I dont drag stain and crud in the house and hey they comfortable to work in all day. As you can tell by my shop and choice of clothing I am about function and comfort over style.
I USE THE TERM AIRPLANE LANDING AND TAKE OFF I THOUGH I WAS THE ONLY ONE USING THE TERM.
This was really helpful. I started woodworking as a hobby last year and I'm always trying to find ways to broaden my horizons. Thank you!
I appreciate that he showed much of the process without jump cuts then used speed for the repetitive parts. Also love that he got busy without a ton of jabber. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed!
Absolutely STELLAR job! That's a showroom piece right there! Thanks for the lesson. You explained some of the mistakes I made on my first wood-finishing project. I'm looking forward to my second one now.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
This is the same technique i was taught in high school woodshop in 1968! Worked well then and I am glad your video reminded me of this. Thank you.
Oh that’s awesome!!
I use very fine steelwool in-between coats third coat adds the final effect
I don’t like the dust from the steel wool. It also seems to leave hair scratches that can sometimes be seen in direct sunlight
I’ve watched about a dozen videos trying to build up my confidence before I do my countertops. This is THE BEST video I’ve watched. I’m ready to go now. Thank you.
You got this! Good luck!
How did your countertops turn out?
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I've never thought about the wet and dry sandpaper. Adding the sponge excellent idea thanks for sharing bro, By for now Ken
I look forward to hear from you.
I'm with you!
I’m impressed that the episode includes additional information that reflects viewers questions and input, the sign of a professional who cares about accuracy. Good job, dude!
Thank you.
Exactly what I needed to see before I tackle my project. You gave me confidence and for that, I thank you!
Glad I could help!
11:17 when you got that little dry patch the light was catching was so satisfying! 😅
Awesome. You are a natural teacher, giving us the whys and whats along with the how. Thanks!
My pleasure!Thank you!
The best no BS instructional video ever!
So glad to hear that! Thanks
I love the glass finish I seen this done on cars but never thought about doing it on furniture. I need to try it out thank you for such great advice I love your tips you give thanks 🙏
i wasnt happy with my first try so i sanded it all off and im going to give your method a shot.wish me luck
I have found since I’ve been wearing crocs while doing this the finish gets even better
Power of the Crocs. Wait till you see what happens when you put them in race mode!
I like the way you explained what you're doing in plain English. I'm gonna try your techniques on my project. Thanks.
Awesome, thank you!
I do the exact same but 600 grit paper, good stuff. Four coats looks even better though.
I've tried several techniques and yours helped me the most by far!
Thanks for sharing!
Oh that is so great to hear. Thank you for letting me know.
You are a very good teacher I like watching your videos I have learned so much ...
I am so glad! ☺
New subscriber right here! One of the best videos I've ever seen! Your the man fr! Thank you. I'm just starting re cycling furniture!
This is so great to hear!! Thank you!
Awesome vid mate. Very easy to understand. Just finishing a project that im varnishing. So will use this method. Cheers
Glad it helped
Im finally ready to finish the coffee table I redid! This video was a huge help❤️
I'm so glad! You got this!
I just love that end result! Impressed!
Nicely done! Doing a tap board for my daughter and this method is going to be applied.
Fantastic!
Excellent video. Very well shown and explained! Thank you Brother!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!!
Nice, short, and sweet and right to the point. Great job! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
@@DeanFurnitureArtist I had some small pieces (wood vases) that had little nibs on them after applying Polyurethane. Lightly sanded with 1000 Grit.....Bingo, smooth as silk.
I have seen a lot of videos on applying polyurethane. I have to say yours is the best. 👍
So great to hear! I may do another one now that I have the 4k camera.
It’s 12:27am here in Maine and I am watching your videos m 😊
Thank you! ❤
just found your channel. TI just started flipping furniture and I will try this. Your work is beautiful.
Thank you! ☺
Bought the sandpaper and I’m gonna try wet sanding . Glad I saw this before I started ! Thanks for the instructions!
Have fun!
WOW Wet sand!! Great tip! I am polyurethaning a butcherblock top for the trailer, right now. None of the videos I've watched said to "wet sand". I just dry sanded the bottom. Just did the first top coat, I'm going to wet sand it, now!! Thanks! (Oil base, hope that doesn't matter.)
Cheers!
Works on oil and water. This video was oil base 👍🏻
Thanks for explaining how to get that shiny finish, I am working with a polyurethane product and I am looking at a matte finish. I will try your 1,000 grit wet sand. Thanks for the INFO.
Welcome
Florida here! Great video, will have to try this, we have high humidity too
Hello from Texas!
Good to finally see someone else using Minwax Oil based Gloss Poly. Been using that for 30 years. Tired of seeing people on other channels with their satin finished Polycrylic, saying how great it looks. Yea, looks good for a hack job. Once you master oil based gloss, everything else just looks like crap.
Yeah I use both depending on the piece. I love a glass top on elegant pieces but a satin on my Industrial and rustic pieces.
Excellent video. I am going to try that wet sanding technique. Minwax gets a lot of hate online but I have always had good luck with their stains and polyurethanes. As another comment said for the price nothing comes close. There are some very nice wiping varnishes but they are quadruple the price.
Thanks dude. For anyone wondering this process works perfect for gun furniture. My AK turned out gorgeous. Bless your sould man.
Thank you!
Looks good bro! Never tried the soapy water gonna give a try on. NExt project
Do you have a video where you break down what you are doing from 00:00 to 00:40 ? I have my own method how to do all that. But I'm curious of your exact process, reasoning and tools 👍
Many of my older build videos demonstrate how I strip and stain wood to achieve various looks. However, I don't have a single video dedicated to just that process, as there are numerous methods I use depending on the desired finish for each piece.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist Can you reply with a link or video title name that has the method of yours your prefer most? Would be much appreciated :)
GREAT VID. GOING TO BE TRYING THIS REAL SOON. ANSWERED ALL MY QUESTIONS. FROM UP HERE IN THUNDER BAY CANADA KEEP UP WITH THE GREAT VIDS
Thanks! Good luck! You got this.
*How's it going, Excellent idea using the Wet and Dry Sandpaper* *and A spray bottle.* I use the use 320,
I usually will do 3 Coats or just put on one heavy coat, Then I'll do my standing, Then go over that with a Rattle can of Polly for my finish.
Nice!
Thanks for the video. I'm gonna try that wet sand paper tip and see how it goes. Salutations from Baja Mexico amigo!
Hello from Texas 👋
After your last coat u can also take some car finish wax and a buffer and buff it out just like u would on a car and that will give u a mirror finish!
Yes sir!
Very nice finish! Good job! I'll be applying these methods to a desk that I built. Thanks!
Welcome!
The video I wish I saw before starting my project. Thanks for the info
Thanks!
I always enjoy your content and seeing how you transform different pieces of furniture, but I found this concise and particularly informative as well. I know this is an older video, but thought I’d let you know your content endures. Keep up the great work. This helped me as I’m applying finish to a coffee table I refurbished. Appreciate it!
So great to hear. Thank you
Mad props dude! Much respect from Claude, TX.
Out there on the pan handle. Hello fellow Texan!! Thank you!😊
Fantastic tip! I've always wet sanded my paint to get a smooth glass like finish but never my top coat. Not sure why I didn't think of that before but I'll try it now! And the tip for dipping the brush lightly in mineral spirits is a great one too!
You are very welcome!
Did you wet sand again after the final coat? And did you do any buffing? I’m putting down my final coat tonight and am just curious. Thanks for the rest of the tips though
Great channel 👍 appreciate the time you take to explain all the tips and tricks and your down to earth disposition. I'm a fan guys keep posting ill be watching 🇨🇦
Thank you! Will do!!
Great video. Very informative. I used this technique and had fantastic results. I think I added to much Dawn. I would like to know how much soap to water he used in his spray bottle..
I add maybe a dawn dish soap cap worth. A very small amount. Thanks for the feedback back! So glad it was a helpful video.
Wow thank you so much for this video. Best video out there.
So glad it was helpful!
Hey nice video and you were bang ON with the issues that many of us face, I need your help and yes have gone through all the 200 comments below but it’s not discussed anywhere. So here I am refinishing my dinning table and I have already done 2 poly coats and yes followed your method of wet sanding and knocking of the bumps, I am using water based Varathane triple coat poly and I am no where close to glass like finish as of now, I also read in one of your comments that it’s not possible with water based poly. I would really appreciate if you can please help me as this is a very precious table for my family and I really want to bring it back to life.
Yeah I don’t like the triple thick poly at all! It’s so hard to work with. If you want it to look like the top you see here you need to strip it back down and use oil base. Water base is going to look like plastic when oil will look like glass. I wish I had a better answer for you since I know you have put so much work in already.
The Dawn soap and water is a great tip to give the mild abrasive some glide, gunna try that! Thank you! 🔨
Welcome and thanks for watching.
It mostly serves to help the water to suspend the sanded-off particles, and prevent the sandpaper from clogging up. A final wipe with a wet cloth, to remove any traces of the detergent, is a good idea between coats.
Thank you. Well done. A good video to bookmark for future reference. Take care. Mary
Thanks!
Excellent, clear instruction, thanks! About to go put on the finish on a dining room table I am refinishing. Very similar color theme as your piece.
Awesome! Good luck!
New fan. Loved the Julia Child imitation in the beginning. Helpful information.
So great to hear!! thank you!
What do you recommend for cooler temperatures? Do you have concerns about ventilation when you use poly in the house? Is is very stinky?
The newer stuff is low VOC. Didn’t really notice a heavy smell. It has a smell but not potent like if you used an aerosol can.
If using oil base I can only recommend to do so over 72 deg.
Any cooler it really just becomes a headache.
Thanks for your relpy.@@DeanFurnitureArtist
A very well informed video. It was as if you were reading my mind, any questions that popped up you gave an answer for it. I’ve been looking for a poly that was self leveling. So glad I found your channel. And now I’m on the hunt to find that 1k grit sandpaper!
Thank you. Worse case if you have to order some I put a amazon link in the description for 3M. Guess you could be out of country tho??
One word...Excellent! Thank you! Will sub for more amazing tips. I'm a newbie and having so much fun refinishing.
So great to here! Thanks
Great instructional video. Good tips . Thanks and all the best
Glad it was helpful!
Instead of using the 1000 grit sandpaper, would wet sanding with a blue Scotch-Brite kitchen cleaning pad work? Some people say it is similar to 1000 grit sandpaper.
That one I am not sure on since I have tried it.
great. video. good thing no mess on the carpet.
🤞😆
I am rewatching this. Can i wet sand over a painted top or just a stained top? I bought the 1000 grit sandpaper....but i am afraid of trying it. Logically, i think i can...but.....
If it is dry yes you can. I do that before clear coating. If there is trash in the paint wet sanding may leaving a tiny un painting dot when it knocks the trash down since more then likely the paint is just sitting on top of it. Make since?
I know it’s self leveling but what about smaller custom pieces? That have curves or crevices and are not a flat level surface?
I only use it on furniture so by no means a expert on small stuff but I would say if it’s not a table top or dresser top that will see a lot of traffic then I would just use a can of spray lacquer or enamel.
Great information. Thanks. Would you consider buffing the top as a final step? Thanks.
You most definitely. Normally after the last coat it’s like glass but a buff would glass it out even more. I would wait a few days to a week to buff it just so you know it is fully harden.
Thanks for replying & clarifying.
I never know just how much poly to leave on the brush? I noticed you don't wipe off the brush? I am new to this but am very familiar with the wet sanding as my father was an auto body repair guy many many years ago, btw you do awesome work.
I just get the poly on the top then spread it with the brush. Thank you! 😊
Good Information man !!! Make longer videos like these....thanks from All the Carpenters from India.. NAMASTE...
Thank you!
Woah, that's like a One Hit method, thanks for the information!
Welcome!
Great video can I use microfiber cloths instead of torn T-shirts?
You can just make sure it’s a good brand that doesn’t leave specs of cloth on your surface. The Walmart ones are not great at all. Lol
Question I saw a guy use mineral spirits on his sand paper to get ride of dust do you recommend that? Or just the water and soap method ?? I am having an issue with dust on my polyurethane finish
I don’t ever dry sand poly so I haven’t tried that. I always wet sand.
Amazing finish. Just beautiful!
Thank you! ☺
What color stain did you use? Is there a video for the staining process on this piece?
I use Rust-Oleum Kona. Here is the full video th-cam.com/video/R-44nNHKMXw/w-d-xo.html
Can you finish polycrylic the same way? I have a ton of brush marks on my piece and I’ve sanded and recoated three times and just can’t get this glass like top. Any tips for water based polycrylic? My wife LOATHES the smell of polyurethane which is why I have to use polycrylic. Thank you, and awesome video!
Yes you can wet sand water base poly it is a much faster process since it dries fast. If you are getting brush strokes it’s either to warm when you are applying it or you are going back over it as it dries. Since it dries so quick you have to brush on and leave it be so it will settle and the brush strokes disappear. If it’s hot and dries to fast it won’t settle. Some people also use a top coat sponge as well but I have never had good luck with those.
Water base poly also will not look like this top where it looks wet or like glass. Water base poly looks more kind of like plastic. I use water base on almost all my projects unless I need that shinny wet look.
Thanks. Great Vid. Going to use your method very soon.
Glad it was helpful!
Never wet sanded polyurethane. Will give it a try. At the very least it doesn't create more dust. Thanks for the video.
Glad it was helpful. Thanks!
Thank you for showing and explaining about the waiting times. Do you think this smooth top would be suitable for a computer desk, which will have monitor, mouse and keyboard?
Yes once oil base poly hardens fully it very durable. I would give it a week to harden before use.
@@DeanFurnitureArtist Thanks for the reply. Ill do it tomorrow and come back in a week to let you know how it went
Impressive. So would adding more coats give a deeper glass look finish? I currently use spraymax 2k clear on my car and cycle repairs and more coats means deeper look. But furniture clears are not the same. Heard from friends about your vids. Just trying to find my backbone to fix my wife's dining room table I ruined with car batt acid. 🙄
I have only done 3 to 5 coats so not really sure. I would assume you would get to a point where it would look very amber color like it does in the can with enough coats.
Sanding between coats with water and dish soap - does the presence of the dish soap become a bond breaker or cause any negative bonding to further coats? Do you have to additionally wash or rinse the soap off?
Not at all this technique has been used for 40 years on automotive paint and you see the results here on all of my pieces. I normally just wipe it clean with a dry cloth between coats, but you can also wipe it down with mineral spirits between coats as well.
I've been trying to do my coffee table, first time I didn't sand in between coats. Then I used 220 on an orbital between coats and got swirl scratches. So the wet sanding, lightly in grain direction makes sense. Time to sand it all back down and try again.
Hope it goes smoother for you this time. See what I did there 😏
I've made the mistake of using an orbital between coats too, it's just way too aggressive. Hand sanding alone should give you much better results
220 is very aggressive - only necessary if you have a seriously rough surface, or a major defect to remove. You'll need to work your way up through higher grits if you're going to get out the scratches that it leaves behind. Use 500, then 1000, going with the grain on the 1000.
I wish I caught your video sooner...lol.. I just sanded and stained my Dining table! My stain is blotchy and look like crap, I did it for like two days and refuse to do it again... I just laid the first layer of polyurethane and should do a video of what not to do 😠!! But your video is a light at the end of the tunnel because i can fix it 😁.. Screw the stain job. I'm gonna count a glossy table as a win! Thanks B2B! 👍
So glad it was helpful!
What color is that stain? Is that miniwax oil-based prep? Plan to stain pine staircase and oak banisters. Any tips would be appreciated. Great technique!
Kona is the stain. There is a link to all the products I use in the description of the video. I'm not sure what oil base prep is. I use pre-stain on some of my pieces if I am worried it may be blotchy.
I have never done stairs. I would think you would want a hardcore poly for that being high traffic. The stuff you have seen me do is just self taught so I am by no means a expert. I just show the way I do it. Doesn't mean it is the best way or right way to do it lol. Just my way I do my pieces.
Thanks for the video. Really helped out a lot . 👍🏽
Glad it helped
How high of a grit do you sand the wood too before you stain? I did a desktop to 220 grit came out nice but I used a semi gloss polyurethane. It has a shine but not like glass. I am going to build my dining table next but I want that nice glossy glass look on it.
Normally 220. I find sanding with 320 or higher makes it harder to lay the stain. It’s almost like if it’s to smooth it doesn’t like it.
Now we all will be able to obtain that beauty. Thank you so much for your help.
Glad to help.
What would you think about using 000 steel wool instead of wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper? I've always used 000 steel wool (except when the store supply is gone, then I use 0000 with extra pressure).
I know that is the old school way. I have always dealt with that steel wool dust and deeper groves from using hand and finger pressure. The pad is more precise. Body shop guys have been using this method for a long time on auto clear coats. I just applied it to poly.
Also could you use poly over the top of painted laminate surfaces to protect from chipping? I recently used the laminate paint for my bench tops followed all instructions but now I’m finding little bits of chips and feel in needs some kind of extra top coat of something to protect it
Something like that I would scuff and used epoxy resin. Total Boat is a really good brand that hardens really tough 👍🏻
I was looking for tricks I could use on guitar clear coats. On a guitar it's common to sand and polish, and sometimes wax and / or oil after the last coat of poly. The reflections go from blurry to razor sharp like looking in a mirror. From where you stopped, I'd wet sand with 2000, then buff with Turtle Wax polishing compound on a foam pad on a drill, then hand wax and polish with Johnson paste wax, then rub down and polish with mineral oil. If you can prevent contaminants, you don't need to sand between coats. You just have to build up enough poly to not sand through it when you sand it level at the end. Just build up your coats, sand it flat, sand to 2000 or so, polish, wax, and oil.
About the same thing we do on cars to get a glass finish. 1000, 1500, 2000, courses buffing wheel and cutting compound then a wool buffing wheel and wax.
Thanks for this video! I have been restoring my Grandmother's 1916 Victrola, and I have had a tough time with the poly stage. Your instruction will really help me get the cabinet looking nice. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
What did you apply before the stain?!!
Minwax pre stain. There is a link for it in the description.
Thank you so much!!!
@@Licearm57 you are very welcome.
It's probably an obvious question, but can you wet sand water and oil based polyurethane? This looks amazing!! Great video!
Thanks! Yes you can do both.
I hate putting top coats on. I always screw it up! I have the buffet from heck! I am using PolyAcrylic. Now I have brush marks. Or to me they look more like scratches. But I was hardly pressing on 1500 sandpaper with water/soap like you said. I actually applied it with a stain pad . I am not redoing it again! But I don’t know what to do. Maybe my lighting is too good so I see all my flaws. 😂
The only way you could have scratch marks wet sanding with 1500 is if there was debris on the surface or the sandpaper.
I always recommend applying with a brush. Put it on and let it settle. It has self leveling properties so the brush strokes disappear. Unless it’s to hot and drying while applying or you brush over it to much while it’s getting tacky. Applying to thin can also cause brush strokes due to the thin coat drying fast. Poly acrylic is great because it dries so fast but at the same time you have to work fast.
This was a great tutorial! Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Was that mineral spirits you put down before the stain?
Cleaned it with mineral spirits then Pre-stain.
What a spontaneously funny intro 😆 🤣!
Finish up rubbing on a finishing compound and polisher.
Wow! I love that finish!
Thank you! ☺
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
That is a tough one. I have never tried putting oil base or lacquer on top of a water base stain product. I have done water base poly on stop of oil base stain but never the other way around. I do know if you have to start sanding on top of stain it can get pretty bad fast. So unfortunately this time I don’t really have a good answer for you. Sorry 😕
@@DeanFurnitureArtist No probs, mate, thank you for the reply anyway. Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind. As the oil base poly over water base stain is concerned - it worked well, so it can be definitely done this way. I think as soon as the water is gone, the dry pigment in the wood doesn't create any nasty stuff (in fact, anything at all) in contact with oil base poly.
Very nice.
Does it matter if the poly is water or oil based when wet sanding?
It does not matter wet sanding but two very different looks and apply method. Water base will look more plastic while oil base looks wet or like glass. Water base also drys in minutes where oil base can take hours to dry and days to fully harden.
I’m between applying coats, how is best way to keep brush usable for next coat? Beautiful work!
I put mine in a glass jar of mineral spirits
I hope this works on my old cedar chest its so old and dark now but Im going to sand it back to original wood and start it from scratch I tried a regular sander but it hardly looked like it removed anything so need something more stronger or different grit?.But want it to shine like new when done.
If you watch some of my other videos you will see I use a special scraper to get the poly of old pieces when a sander with not. I also use paint remover at times as well.
Is a bristle brush better than foam brush for poly?
I think that is more of a preference thing. I prefer bristle brushes.
This Old House has a TH-cam video on applying oil-based poly to wood. They say never use a foam brush for poly. It’s because foam brushes hold air bubbles. Use a China bristle brush instead. China bristle is a natural material made from hog hair. That’s what you need for oil-based poly. Also make sure the brush label says that you can use the brush for stains and polyurethanes.
I have a butcher block island new .I just would like to finish it natural . Would I sand it first and then pre stain conditioner . Sand again but what do I do next .
If you are just wanting it natural just sand it and use a food safe oil on it if you plan on preparing food on it. No need for pre stain.