Sooo true!!! I do vinyl flooring, not the hardest thing in the world to do but I’ve done it a long time and I make it look easy. Every single helper I’ve ever had at about the 1 or 2 week mark tells me they are going to put in a floor for a relative or friend. They come back the next day and tell me they effed it all up and could I come and look at it 🤦🏻♂️ 🤣. I should say that I start my helpers off slow so at the 1 or 2 week mark they haven’t done a lot with the vinyl itself yet. I mostly am just having them do floor prep and underlayment.
I love this guy. Super smart. Dust is ENEMY. Buy good brush. And don't try fix tacky spots, better light sand, clean do final coat again. Don't fixate on few spots. No one will see. Tempature impt.👍
I have never applied poly before, I refinished my grandmothers oak coffee table. This video was so instrumental in making that table look amazing, thank you very much for taking the time to show your process. Be blessed.
Thank you so much for dropping me a note. I would’ve gotten back to you sooner but fortunately busy. Do you thing else please contact me. Take care for now.. God bless too
Thanks dad 😊 I'm refinishing our dining table and the first coat was a bit hard for me to figure out, but you make it look easy! I feel more confident for the second coat 👍
It's a super important step that most gloss right over (pun intended). But there isn't much too it. Some finishes are different so read when to sand it but really it's light sanding and a super high grit to smooth out the top while adding small scratches that the next layer can fill giving it grip to the layer beneath. That's the idea, don't overthink it and try to keep it fine so it doesn't become all milky, and don't over do it. Practice on a scrap peice and see what works/ doesn't work. Have fun with it. That really is the best way, even if you are doing it once, because the 1 other time in your life you will need to remember how this is done, you will show off like a super genius. Good luck
@Mark Nelson I have found it to be important. It has a HUGE basis in reality. There is science behind it. The way some polymers dry doesn't give a smooth surface, and small imperfections would only be later noticed by reflections of light. Also, if you are doing multiple layers, the sanding helps to add grooves to the surface. This increases the surface area in which the next layer will bind too. Our technology is getting better, but in the mean time, sanding works really well for taking care of the surface and ensuring good adhesion while providing the best surface possible.
Dragoro I am getting a wavy appearance in a certain light. It looks great and feels smooth but at a certain angle it looks like it dried unevenly. Any idea on this?
@@dragoro3033 yes thank you. I need this. I did a black stain and after the light sanding it looks all worn and scratched up. Letting the second coat dry now and hoping I don't have to strip and start over.
My Friend, thank you for sharing your skill and experience. Also, thanks for the classic Steely Dan in the background … great inspiration! Kind Regards, Tom Pollock
By far the best video I have ever seen. Explained everything thoroughly and simply. I just got into refinishing wood. Thank you very much for this video.
After finer and finer sanding, I like to apply a 50/50 mix of poly with appropriate thinner for the first coat. That way, the poly has a chance to soak into the wood, giving you a good grip. Sand more, and apply appropriate number of layers per application of wood furniture. Like glass, and lasts longer.
This video was so incredibly helpful! I was beyond frustrated earlier today, messing up a varnish. Then I watched this and gave it another shot. Thank you, brother!
Thank you for this info! My next step is this with my wooden door project! Man has this been a long road with getting the paint off but it’s all sanded, stained stripped etc now for the polyurethane. Question when sanding are you hand sanding or using a tool when sanding?
But what if your doors are custom knotty pine doors? I don't want to sand them & end up ruining them. I am confused & this type of problem is just not my strong suit...
Thank you for the excellent tutorial. I just attempted my first attempt at polyurethaning a project. I was having all the issues you went through. I was using the same brand as you. I didn’t know to thin it down. I was getting brush strokes and trying to go over them only made it worse. I sanded it down this morning and just watched your video and I’m heading out to get some mineral spirits now and a good brush. Looking forward to watching some more of your videos. Thank again for sharing your knowledge.
When you are working with a cherry wood stain and a polyurethane finish , what kind of back ground music goes with that beautiful finish? Do you think classical , or light classic rock n roll , Metallica is more for those dark grey and black jobs , I myself think Pink Floyd might do the trick what’s yours ?
I've done a bit of finishing myself and seen plenty of good videos of experts and this guy seems to be doin everything you shouldnt do to apply polyurethane. The Do Not's: applying against the grain, Brushing it on with multiple brush strokes, Going back to get the dry spots while the poly is already starting to dry (that somehow didnt get covered during his multiple passes). He makes it look so rushed. Poly needs to layed onto the surface with good even coverage perr pass and feathered slightly while it is still wet and fluid. His technique / method is the very reason why he has several bubbles appearing not to mention all those brush lines. Smh
Good tips. I have read that polyurethane is toxic to the respiratory system and can increase cancer risk. Is a probable carcinogen. Would you use a painter's mask/respirator for this job considering this? Apparently it is fine once cured, which can take about 3 weeks according to sources online.
What he did here is just fine...go with the flow and pretend you are playing a guitar the way you like--with a pic or fingers-- matters not...coverage is the main thing...for the second or even third coat nice soft even sanding strokes in-between coats keeping the sand paper clean us the only critical part...sand in the direction of the grain and sand softly...you'll be just fine...make sure the top coats are thoroughly dry before sanding and you'll do pro work.
How are you today. Just wanted to let you know my table is very long and I have to go back-and-forth quickly to smooth things along. It’s a technique that works over the past 30 years and I think every piece of furniture and tables for example are unique to the technique in which you used to make it look smooth and beautiful. It just takes a little experience to understand how to move the material around to your benefit
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer. I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin. What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
When dealing with a table that’s made of several different types of wooden blocks you will find that the penetration of the polyurethane will be different from one block to the next due to the density of the wood. Also possible that each block could be a different type of wood as well. I would suggest possibly putting a second or third coat of polyurethane to even out the absorption rate. I don’t know anything about the coloring you’re using but as far as poly is concerned sand with 220 or 400 grit paper, apply another coat and see how it looks. Give it plenty of time to dry between coats 24 to 48 hours suggested.
@@magicbristlesllc9816 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@magicbristlesllc9816 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
Did your countertop smell strongly of polyurethane after? I just finished applying it to a desk a couple of days ago and it still has a strong smell. Do you know how long that smell may last? Thanks!
I really think it depends upon the Pollier thing that you’re using. For example the quick drying polyurethane by Minwax which is also oil base dissipates within 24 hours. Smell of products is subjective
I messed my project up. I got the minwax polyurethane and after putting first coat, the back of can says to sand down with 220 grit. First strike with my sander, skinned it to the wood flesh. Going to try the 400 next to see if it evens out the extra polyurethane drips. So I can add 2nd coat.
Hey Eric I’m sorry to hear about that. What I always do is test my sanding by hand to get a feel for it fresh paper or disc on the sander with 220 grit is quite harsh at first then the paper mellows out. 400 would’ve been fine because you’re doing a re-coat. Good luck with that Eric !!
I never have been able to achieve the second sweep-over with the brush due to the quick-drying nature of the product, esp if it’s water based. It leaves awful brush lines and clumps. I’ve lately thinned it down, allowing the blending to go on much more smoothly. It did require multiple coats tho, but worth it.
#easytotipsandtricks, I have a project you might like to check out it's a custom one-of-a-kind stump chair. You will find in my playlist. This Stump chair is custom colors custom stained it using poly look forward to hear from you God bless bye for now Ken
Oh My Gosh!!! Thank you!!!. I am refinishing cabinets my Dad made. A friends advice did not work. So frustrated I hung 4 bad doors and was doing 2nd coat of 4 more doors. Watched this video, they turned out perfect!!! Now I’m going to take down the first 4 and fix them.
If you read any poly can I will distinctly tell you not to shake. Also maybe we want to tell him to strain the material through fine mesh strainer. Also do that every time you put another coat on.
@@magicbristlesllc9816 I found your video because I am putting a spar urethane on some very nice mahogany doors. You can check them out on my channel. I am a carpenter not a painter so I appreciate your insights my friend.
I've retired and started a small shop in my basement where I do restoration refinishing repairs repurposing furniture. This is a link where I just uploaded a short video clip some pictures of the finished restoration of my antique Cedar dresser. I have to say I don't know what I'm more proud of how good the polyurethane turned out or how beautiful my dresser is. th-cam.com/video/2p0bLdPRg4M/w-d-xo.html
Hello John, thanks a lot for your efforts. Iwould like to ask you: Is polyurethane a varnish? Or there is a difference in dealing with each one? Thanks in advance.
Great video . Thanks for explaining the process. The only thing is I have lots of really small bubbles that are kinda only visible depending on the angle you're looking at it. . Why would that be?
Good job Dane! It’s not easy to get this technique right with a brush. I’m sitting at my table now that you see in my video and whatever year that was because I’m not sure my table is in perfect condition. I probably wait a few years and I’ll do one more coat after a thorough sanding just because I like it to look great. Keep up the good work
I’m not sure I would put polyurethane over my painted countertops as it will feel most likely sooner than you would like. There are products that need to be investigated for the situation for its longevity. Be cautious in your product selection I would hate to see you having to do this again.
Great video! Thank you! Will be applying my first poly coat tomorrow on my custom desk. I saw you had 999 subscribers. Wanted to even that out. I subscribed!
@@thevintagekitty Minwax removed their products from Home Depot and gave Lowes the distribution. I was tempted to try Varathane- glad I didn't! Thank you for posting! :-D
I wanted to take a moment to thank you for this video. I use your technique and my work always turns out beautifully. So much so that I send people to this video when discussing how to apply polyurethane. Many thanks.
Shes PURDY.🖌️ I repurposed a large electrical wood spool into an outdoor work table. I picked it up for free, first quickly ran a small propane torch over it to bring out the dark grains then some leftover stain & finally leftover urethane you don't have to be fussy or strain😉cuz its just beater table but damn she looks good. It was cheap and EZ.✌🏼
Everything is awesome but wear a dang respirator, all my old generation of painters can't seem to grasp the idea of fumes and things they put into their respiratory systems 🤯 again awesome work but as a younger generation of painters please advise against using an oil/shellac/ceramic ect paints without proper protection🤙not talking about interior water based latex paints here 👍😉
Great video, so after this application do you have to do another one and if I heard you correctly you would sand this one down with a 320 grid?? Do you have to sanded again? I’m doing tables and I need to make the least mistakes as possible
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at th-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/w-d-xo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at th-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/w-d-xo.html. Works every time.
how do you keep your brush clean after applying ? as far as i know poly kind of dry faster and if i want to recoat again and again but not want to waste new brush for every coat , how do you keep your brush perfectly for next coat?
Hello how are you today? When you’re done using any oil based products the first thing you want to do is wash it in mineral spirits/thinner. Get three small buckets and put approximately two or 3 inches in each bucket of mineral spirits. Wash in the first bucket then spin out or remove all the thinner, then go to the second bucket and repeat. Make sure you remove all the Thinner than the brush can be returned to its original wrapper or wrapped in some thing like a paper towel to keep its form. This is very hard to describe but it’s very important you get all the material out of the brush to maintain it
Am I required to listen to Steely Dan while I do this? I am prepared..
It's nice to see that James Caan has found his passion in woodworking.
so funny
That's hilarious great one.
When someone makes something look easy it's because they're good at it! Well done. Thanks for the tips.
Sooo true!!! I do vinyl flooring, not the hardest thing in the world to do but I’ve done it a long time and I make it look easy. Every single helper I’ve ever had at about the 1 or 2 week mark tells me they are going to put in a floor for a relative or friend. They come back the next day and tell me they effed it all up and could I come and look at it 🤦🏻♂️ 🤣. I should say that I start my helpers off slow so at the 1 or 2 week mark they haven’t done a lot with the vinyl itself yet. I mostly am just having them do floor prep and underlayment.
LOL
@@SVMSICE thank you for the compliment I hope that your project comes out well
I love this guy. Super smart. Dust is ENEMY. Buy good brush. And don't try fix tacky spots, better light sand, clean do final coat again. Don't fixate on few spots. No one will see. Tempature impt.👍
I have never applied poly before, I refinished my grandmothers oak coffee table. This video was so instrumental in making that table look amazing, thank you very much for taking the time to show your process. Be blessed.
Thank you so much for dropping me a note. I would’ve gotten back to you sooner but fortunately busy. Do you thing else please contact me. Take care for now.. God bless too
Nice work. Respirator for VOC?
@@westvalley411 I did it outside at the time
DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT PROPER VENTILATION. This should be the first thing covered in instructional videos.
Thanks dad 😊 I'm refinishing our dining table and the first coat was a bit hard for me to figure out, but you make it look easy! I feel more confident for the second coat 👍
It’s cool to watch a pro painter work a brush. Very confident, no hesitation in his movements.
Does a butane torch work for the bubbles?
Would have been cool to see you do the second coat and see the final finish. Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the video, but I wish someone would make a video showing the sanding after first coat and applying a second coat.
It's a super important step that most gloss right over (pun intended). But there isn't much too it. Some finishes are different so read when to sand it but really it's light sanding and a super high grit to smooth out the top while adding small scratches that the next layer can fill giving it grip to the layer beneath. That's the idea, don't overthink it and try to keep it fine so it doesn't become all milky, and don't over do it. Practice on a scrap peice and see what works/ doesn't work. Have fun with it. That really is the best way, even if you are doing it once, because the 1 other time in your life you will need to remember how this is done, you will show off like a super genius. Good luck
@Mark Nelson I have found it to be important. It has a HUGE basis in reality. There is science behind it. The way some polymers dry doesn't give a smooth surface, and small imperfections would only be later noticed by reflections of light. Also, if you are doing multiple layers, the sanding helps to add grooves to the surface. This increases the surface area in which the next layer will bind too. Our technology is getting better, but in the mean time, sanding works really well for taking care of the surface and ensuring good adhesion while providing the best surface possible.
Dragoro I am getting a wavy appearance in a certain light. It looks great and feels smooth but at a certain angle it looks like it dried unevenly. Any idea on this?
I always spray it on . Then sand with a 800 grit clean then spray again .
@@dragoro3033 yes thank you. I need this. I did a black stain and after the light sanding it looks all worn and scratched up. Letting the second coat dry now and hoping I don't have to strip and start over.
My Friend, thank you for sharing your skill and experience. Also, thanks for the classic Steely Dan in the background … great inspiration! Kind Regards, Tom Pollock
*_If you're like me I need to physically see every bubble pop so definitely recommend a heat gun because I hate sending..._*
I was planning on listening to some Steely Dan when applying my varnish to achieve the same results.
The Bob Ross of polyurethane.
Big time we’re willing to share in the experience there’s a little tree over there
Awesome video bud. I needed a refresher. No BS just straight to how it’s done. Thanks a lot.
I hear some choice Steely Dan in the background. Owners have good taste!
I did it myself with the Woodglut plans. I think this is the best way to find out how to build it.
Great job
@@magicbristlesllc9816 I'm glad you like it . Best wishes to you and all your family! God bless you! my friend!
@@magicbristlesllc9816 what's it call that you using I'm trying to use polycystic and it's not shining at all I re sanded and stand the cabinets
By far the best video I have ever seen. Explained everything thoroughly and simply. I just got into refinishing wood. Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you for sharing! I will use this to put the poly finish on a trophy I have built
You’re welcome I hope it helps you. The trophy should look cool. Send a photo
@@magicbristlesllc9816 TH-cam wont let me share the link to the photo. I sent you a message through your website. Thanks for the help!!
If the quality of the finish is important, get a Purdy brush. Best thing I ever did for painting and varnishing.
Yes!
China bristle at that!
Steely Dan!!! Thanks for the tips. Very helpful!
Thanks for "BS'N" with us!
After finer and finer sanding, I like to apply a 50/50 mix of poly with appropriate thinner for the first coat. That way, the poly has a chance to soak into the wood, giving you a good grip. Sand more, and apply appropriate number of layers per application of wood furniture. Like glass, and lasts longer.
what is the appropriate thinner for water base urethane? newbie at this -thank you
@@FREEZER4000 You don't mix thinner with water based or they would separate.
@@FREEZER4000 water based poly can be thinned with water or denat.
That 50/50 mix is what you do before staining softwoods. It seals the wood giving a non blotchy finish . So I was told.
Let the tool (brush) do the work! So important to get the perfect finish!
So true!
Came for the instructions, stayed for the Dan
Steely Dan's "Royal Scam"! nice.
That’s exactly how you should do It. High grit light sand after coats. Then wipe surface and repeat.
Thank you for this video. I too had to poly a table top and had not done it 20 years. Thanks for the refresher
You are welcome! Send me a photo I would love to see it. Thank you,
Nice table, but even nicer music dude. Steely Dan Royal Scam. Saw that in concert with Larry Carlton, one of the best.
My mistake was not investing in a good brush. I ended up switching to a t shirt.
This video was so incredibly helpful! I was beyond frustrated earlier today, messing up a varnish. Then I watched this and gave it another shot. Thank you, brother!
"See the glory of"...SD in the backround.
Thank you for this info! My next step is this with my wooden door project! Man has this been a long road with getting the paint off but it’s all sanded, stained stripped etc now for the polyurethane.
Question when sanding are you hand sanding or using a tool when sanding?
Go get it. Send a photo
But what if your doors are custom knotty pine doors? I don't want to sand them & end up ruining them. I am confused & this type of problem is just not my strong suit...
This video was very helpful. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for the excellent tutorial. I just attempted my first attempt at polyurethaning a project. I was having all the issues you went through. I was using the same brand as you. I didn’t know to thin it down. I was getting brush strokes and trying to go over them only made it worse. I sanded it down this morning and just watched your video and I’m heading out to get some mineral spirits now and a good brush.
Looking forward to watching some more of your videos.
Thank again for sharing your knowledge.
When you are working with a cherry wood stain and a polyurethane finish , what kind of back ground music goes with that beautiful finish? Do you think classical , or light classic rock n roll , Metallica is more for those dark grey and black jobs , I myself think Pink Floyd might do the trick what’s yours ?
I've done a bit of finishing myself and seen plenty of good videos of experts and this guy seems to be doin everything you shouldnt do to apply polyurethane. The Do Not's: applying against the grain, Brushing it on with multiple brush strokes, Going back to get the dry spots while the poly is already starting to dry (that somehow didnt get covered during his multiple passes). He makes it look so rushed. Poly needs to layed onto the surface with good even coverage perr pass and feathered slightly while it is still wet and fluid. His technique / method is the very reason why he has several bubbles appearing not to mention all those brush lines. Smh
Ricardo H that’s what I was thinking too. Slow and steady with Poly! And an absolutely dust free area!
He tipped off the finish, did you not watch?
You are absolutely correct on all of the above.
Wish you would have linked the product a brush you used
Good tips. I have read that polyurethane is toxic to the respiratory system and can increase cancer risk. Is a probable carcinogen. Would you use a painter's mask/respirator for this job considering this? Apparently it is fine once cured, which can take about 3 weeks according to sources online.
Definitely use a mask/respirator.
Does it also depend on the weather outside?
Steely Dan in the back ground 👌🏽👌🏽 is this off the Royal Scam album?
Sorry I never replied. No doubt I don’t even think I planned it.
Love Steely Dan lol
Good suggestion to move quickly with thin coats
I just sanded down some church pews I picked up. Thanks for the tips. My first time working with polyurethane.
love your table/island its very nice btw off topic whos the guitar player in the picture far back wall
Sorry so late... Jimmy Page
Shouldn't you use a mask when working with polyurethane?
Yes, especially for oil based poly.
He brushes back and forth.
Other videos say NEVER do that.
I'm confused.
What he did here is just fine...go with the flow and pretend you are playing a guitar the way you like--with a pic or fingers-- matters not...coverage is the main thing...for the second or even third coat nice soft even sanding strokes in-between coats keeping the sand paper clean us the only critical part...sand in the direction of the grain and sand softly...you'll be just fine...make sure the top coats are thoroughly dry before sanding and you'll do pro work.
How are you today. Just wanted to let you know my table is very long and I have to go back-and-forth quickly to smooth things along. It’s a technique that works over the past 30 years and I think every piece of furniture and tables for example are unique to the technique in which you used to make it look smooth and beautiful. It just takes a little experience to understand how to move the material around to your benefit
Hypothetically let’s say I paint the wood first, with say standard wall paint, would the poly eurothane damage it or react with it?
Darn, I wish I had watched this first! I thought the bubbles were getting worse the more I brushed!
Soak your brush in mineral sprits then push down on the brush forcing out all air bubbles. drag out on newspaper then dip and go. Gone forever...
It looks like it was thinned out with sprits..
@@Dennis-kj9qx My though too. Probably mineral ones, ha, hah!
A little Steely Dan doesn't hurt
Thank you for the tips. Your table kooks fantastic.
I’ll be doing it again soon. Just a quick sand and a topcoat for durability
Good video! but the background music or noise is very distracting...
Sorry about that. But it’s necessary to keep insanity from setting in :-)
Thank you. Just needed final courage to lay down the poly. Much-appreciated!
,#easytotipsandtricks,
*Nice job, thanks for sharing bye for now your new friend Ken👍*
A Steely Dan fan. The Royal Scam.
Good job👌💗
Hi! Thank you for very useful video and great tips - immediate subscription! I tried to do something similar, but something went a bit off, so I’m kindly asking you for an advice: I have a wooden IKEA table. Its top made of several wooden blocks, so it’s not a single sheet of wood. I dyed it using water-based dye, and covered it with the first coat of polyurethane lacquer. The thing is that after applying the first coat I can see that the surface gone patchy - some wooden blocks are glossy and smooth, and some - dull and a bit rough to the touch, where the wood absorbed the lacquer.
I was going to use fine sandpaper to even the surface after the first coat of lacquer. But now I’m a bit confused as I don’t know if I could damage the dye layer on the dull patches and expose the wood, as it is obviously very thin.
What would you suggest to do in this case? I was going to do at least three coats of lacquer with sanding in between.
When dealing with a table that’s made of several different types of wooden blocks you will find that the penetration of the polyurethane will be different from one block to the next due to the density of the wood. Also possible that each block could be a different type of wood as well. I would suggest possibly putting a second or third coat of polyurethane to even out the absorption rate. I don’t know anything about the coloring you’re using but as far as poly is concerned sand with 220 or 400 grit paper, apply another coat and see how it looks. Give it plenty of time to dry between coats 24 to 48 hours suggested.
@@magicbristlesllc9816 Thanks a lot, this was very helpful! I’ll try to continue tomorrow and we’ll see how it goes )) I think I will still sand it very lightly trying not to damage dyed layer, so the next poly coat holds better. Cheers!
@@magicbristlesllc9816 Today I lighly sanded the first coat of poly with 700 grit sandpaper on the block, and fortunately the thickness of the layer allowed me not to damage the stain layer. After that I put on the second layer of poly, this time diluted with mineral spirit at 3 to 1 ratio. It worked very well. So I think I'll continue this routine, as the main danger thankfully is behind.
Wow that looks amazing. Beautiful job
Did your countertop smell strongly of polyurethane after? I just finished applying it to a desk a couple of days ago and it still has a strong smell. Do you know how long that smell may last? Thanks!
I really think it depends upon the Pollier thing that you’re using. For example the quick drying polyurethane by Minwax which is also oil base dissipates within 24 hours. Smell of products is subjective
I messed my project up. I got the minwax polyurethane and after putting first coat, the back of can says to sand down with 220 grit. First strike with my sander, skinned it to the wood flesh. Going to try the 400 next to see if it evens out the extra polyurethane drips. So I can add 2nd coat.
Hey Eric I’m sorry to hear about that. What I always do is test my sanding by hand to get a feel for it fresh paper or disc on the sander with 220 grit is quite harsh at first then the paper mellows out. 400 would’ve been fine because you’re doing a re-coat. Good luck with that Eric !!
I never have been able to achieve the second sweep-over with the brush due to the quick-drying nature of the product, esp if it’s water based. It leaves awful brush lines and clumps. I’ve lately thinned it down, allowing the blending to go on much more smoothly. It did require multiple coats tho, but worth it.
"Work out & come to you", I'm taking this to heart
I prefer to build with Woodprix plans.
Me too.
#easytotipsandtricks,
I have a project you might like to check out it's a custom one-of-a-kind stump chair. You will find in my playlist.
This Stump chair is custom colors custom stained it using poly look forward to hear from you God bless bye for now Ken
Oh My Gosh!!! Thank you!!!. I am refinishing cabinets my Dad made. A friends advice did not work. So frustrated I hung 4 bad doors and was doing 2nd coat of 4 more doors. Watched this video, they turned out perfect!!! Now I’m going to take down the first 4 and fix them.
A lot of people don't know the bubbles come from shaking the products rather than stirring
If you read any poly can I will distinctly tell you not to shake. Also maybe we want to tell him to strain the material through fine mesh strainer. Also do that every time you put another coat on.
@@magicbristlesllc9816 I found your video because I am putting a spar urethane on some very nice mahogany doors. You can check them out on my channel. I am a carpenter not a painter so I appreciate your insights my friend.
I've retired and started a small shop in my basement where I do restoration refinishing repairs repurposing furniture. This is a link where I just uploaded a short video clip some pictures of the finished restoration of my antique Cedar dresser. I have to say I don't know what I'm more proud of how good the polyurethane turned out or how beautiful my dresser is. th-cam.com/video/2p0bLdPRg4M/w-d-xo.html
Hello John, thanks a lot for your efforts. Iwould like to ask you:
Is polyurethane a varnish?
Or there is a difference in dealing with each one?
Thanks in advance.
Easy to follow, great information, thanks!
Thank you I love watching and learning from real people doing a real home style job.
Love it !!
Shouldn’t you wear a mask?
Yes
Nice video!!! Ty for upping my maker game!!
Great video . Thanks for explaining the process. The only thing is I have lots of really small bubbles that are kinda only visible depending on the angle you're looking at it. . Why would that be?
You sand after your first coat ???
Yes 220 or 400 grit.
Dude thanks for sharing..... nice very nice
You’re welcome. Have a good one!
Had to do some poly today, been about 15 years since I've done it and this video helped me get my technique down. Many thanks!
Good job Dane! It’s not easy to get this technique right with a brush. I’m sitting at my table now that you see in my video and whatever year that was because I’m not sure my table is in perfect condition. I probably wait a few years and I’ll do one more coat after a thorough sanding just because I like it to look great. Keep up the good work
Steely Dan...nice
Did you diluted it? It looks very watery. I just need to know.
No it is not diluted!
No ! that’s the quick dry Minwax satin finish.
Can I use this to seal and gloss over my painted countertops?
I’m not sure I would put polyurethane over my painted countertops as it will feel most likely sooner than you would like. There are products that need to be investigated for the situation for its longevity. Be cautious in your product selection I would hate to see you having to do this again.
Great video! Thank you! Will be applying my first poly coat tomorrow on my custom desk. I saw you had 999 subscribers. Wanted to even that out. I subscribed!
Nice !!
I agree 100%, never found anything that works as well as Minwax Polyurethane Satin!
I tried "Varathane" polyuethane... it sucks... too thick. Will be going back to Minwax for sure!
@@thevintagekitty Minwax removed their products from Home Depot and gave Lowes the distribution. I was tempted to try Varathane- glad I didn't! Thank you for posting! :-D
I wanted to take a moment to thank you for this video. I use your technique and my work always turns out beautifully.
So much so that I send people to this video when discussing how to apply polyurethane.
Many thanks.
Papa's 'Maters Backyard farming Thank you very much for the kind words.
Thanks for making my day. I really appreciate it.
Shes PURDY.🖌️ I repurposed a large electrical wood spool into an outdoor work table. I picked it up for free, first quickly ran a small propane torch over it to bring out the dark grains then some leftover stain & finally leftover urethane you don't have to be fussy or strain😉cuz its just beater table but damn she looks good. It was cheap and EZ.✌🏼
wish I could see how it finished :) thank you for sharing your experience!
I used a Behr water based polyurethane (gloss) and it doesn’t look as thick and shiny as yours.
Does polyurethane waterproof it?
Probably
Everything is awesome but wear a dang respirator, all my old generation of painters can't seem to grasp the idea of fumes and things they put into their respiratory systems 🤯 again awesome work but as a younger generation of painters please advise against using an oil/shellac/ceramic ect paints without proper protection🤙not talking about interior water based latex paints here 👍😉
Thx for the video. Good tips, especially about straining the polyurethane before applying.
Hello mate, you done this very well, greting from Poland. Can somebody tell me what is the title of the background music?
Great video, so after this application do you have to do another one and if I heard you correctly you would sand this one down with a 320 grid?? Do you have to sanded again? I’m doing tables and I need to make the least mistakes as possible
And jamming to Steely Dan at that!!
Very helpful. Thank you for posting the video. Dave
Do you thin the polyurethane with any thinner or is the viscosity shown the same as when it comes out of the can?
Storing oil-based finishes and varnish can be a problem. The leftovers skin over or thicken and become useless. Bloxygen is the fix! Use this inert gas and you can store leftovers for years. See www.bloxygen.com for more. Also see Bloxygen Videos at th-cam.com/video/zHMdkZcqSUY/w-d-xo.html or our 60 Second Storage Tip at th-cam.com/video/1nOINqPCt7Q/w-d-xo.html. Works every time.
Im doing a 8foot by 16 foot conference table right now. on my 2nd coat. how should i handle my last coat or finish, wax? buff?
I purchased a new dining room table, however, for the attic protection I would like to do a second coat of satin on the table. Should I do it?
Always
how do you keep your brush clean after applying ? as far as i know poly kind of dry faster and if i want to recoat again and again but not want to waste new brush for every coat , how do you keep your brush perfectly for next coat?
Hello how are you today? When you’re done using any oil based products the first thing you want to do is wash it in mineral spirits/thinner. Get three small buckets and put approximately two or 3 inches in each bucket of mineral spirits. Wash in the first bucket then spin out or remove all the thinner, then go to the second bucket and repeat. Make sure you remove all the Thinner than the brush can be returned to its original wrapper or wrapped in some thing like a paper towel to keep its form. This is very hard to describe but it’s very important you get all the material out of the brush to maintain it
Did you thin the poly?
No... never thin poly
I loved that you estimate how often to recoat by how many children you have 😆 I have six. I'm about to redo our kitchen table at year two.
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