Harley clutch replacement with no special tools
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2020
- How to replace on a Harley clutch with no special tools. The video is done on an 05 Dyna, but it is basically the same procedure on all big twin Harley. Be sure and torque everything to spec when you are reassembling the parts, and always use new gaskets.
Check out my other Harley Dyna build videos on my channel: / knoblemoto
Dyna FXD build playlist
• Harley Dyna Rear Pulle...
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Before removing the shifter lever, it`s good practice to mark a line on the face of the shaft where the break is so you can line up your lever to where it was before being removed
That's good advice!!
Good job thanks
Good content thanks👍🏻
Thank you
Just like to add that the 6 bolts holding the spring are torqued to I believe 70-90 "INCH" lbs NOT foot lbs you'll break the bolts at about 30 ft lbs 😄 yes I do know this from experience lol have a grateful day 💯✌
You have to listen to what I think I said. Lol.
This video just came in clutch for me - thanks! Omg that was a terrible pun and I hate myself for it. The sad part is that is what I meant to say but didn’t realize the pun until it was already typed in and I’m a man who will take responsibility and own his horrid dad jokes 🤮 Anyways - never done this before and this video was great - thank you!
You’re welcome. Glad it “grabbed” your attention.
Easy, fast and for the whole family
Yes, wholesome clutch replacement.
Great vid.. thx.. Question with 52K on the motor, did you replace your Cam Chain Tensioner shoes yet?.. Appreciate it.. thx
Replaced the tensioners at 32ish. They were beyond worn out. I switched to gear cams.
@@KnobleMoto thank you much.. i have 16K on my 01 dyna WG I didnt know if I should go through the light tear down and check them yet.. What mileage
should I inspect them?
@@jeffpotts3606 I would check the tensioners on any first gen twin cam as soon as you buy it, regardless of mileage. It’s one gasket, and you can generally pull that cover off without removing anything else.
Can you please tell me what size those bolts are the six you took out of the clutch basket retaining ring?
Screw M6 x 1.0 x 16mm Hex Flange Head HD part 2980. Make sure you get high strength ones.
Great job my man. Good persona about you. You should of been a teacher at something. Ty again.
I just had Hd dealer put a new clutch assembly on.
Is the clutch hub bearing , come pressed in? Didn't ask service. I hope it is, cause they didn't put one in (charge me)..ty in advance
I do think it all comes as one unit right? And easier for the techs..right
If you just buy the hub, you will have to press the bearing in yourself. However there may be a whole kit available that is pre assembled that I am unaware of.
Hi! What the brand (model) of this Derby cover? Look nice!
Thanks. It is a stock one I sandblasted then cut in a lathe.
I took the idea from Austin Martin Originals.
@@KnobleMoto Thanks you!
@@KnobleMoto 0⁰⁰⁰p 7
Great video, I’m a complete novice so this may be a stupid question. Since you are using 9 friction plates, then I no longer need the damper seat and damper spring, correct?
Correct. The removal of those allows for the extra plate.
What about if I'm reinstalling a brand new stock clutch plate with a spring plate does that plate go in the middle
I am not sure what you asking. But you can always refer to you shop manual for assembly order.
@@KnobleMoto ok thanks
Just out of curiosity do u run the beveled edge in our out on the plates?
I do not recall any beveled edges on the plates. If there were, I would checked with the manufacturer of the clutch.
@@KnobleMoto its barely noticable. Next time u get a plate in ur hand rub the edges. One side is sharp one is round. People argue which way to put em in lol
@@bobbycarpenter7959 Those "bevels" and sharp edges (burs) are a byproduct of the stamping process used in manufacturing the plates. I worked in the stamping industry. The larger the bur/bevel, just means the tooling was dull and the material took the shape of the rounded/dull edge of the tooling. It would be irrelevant to clutch installation. If I found a large burr on some of the plates, I would take it down with a fine file before installation.
@@bobbycarpenter7959 Many items industrial items like steel shelving, electrical boxes, and industrial pipe hangers will still have this same bevel/bur on it.
@@bobbycarpenter7959 I never payed an attention either, and I’ve done a lot of clutches on dirt bikes and street bikes. An old timer told me to put the bevel to the inside. I’ve done it the opposite and even mixed em, never seemed to make a difference. If it was that imperative, the manufacturer of the discs would make a note to tell you to install them a certain way, I’ve never seen a clutch with instructions to do it one way or the other
For the plates how did you know what order to put the plates in?
It is every other one. Friction, steel, friction, steel….
That is standard packing order for wet clutches.
@@KnobleMoto thanks appreciate it
Novice Wrencher…
You still have to take all the slack out of the cable right?
You want to loosen the cable to have some slack in it before you make the adjustment on the clutch. Then once that is good, adjust (remove the slack) from the cable.
I was told to turn clutch bolt 3/4 turn then tighten ?
What you are basically trying to do is to take up the extra play in the clutch linkage, then back it off a wee bit to allow for expansion when things get hot.
Gear oil? Why not chain case fluid?
That is gear oil.
Can I get away with not replacing the primary gasket
I would use a new gasket