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Yes you can.

😂😂. They are a rare find anymore.

You’re welcome and greetings from Cleveland Ohio!

It's the same design as on many of the metric motorcycles, which also fail with age and use. The switches are probably made by the same people. Did you just come here to try and bad mouth a brand that you don't like?

It’s not the switch itself. It’s the arrangement and zero tolerance for slop. Had 15 metric bikes throughout my life (some old). NEVER one failure. Just wanted to ride today and couldn’t. It’s a safety issue. I could easily design it to last the life of the bike with exception of actual switch failure. No excuse for poor design.

@@KnobleMotoIt’s not the switch that fails it’s the arrangement. Had so many jpn bikes some old that never failed. Missed a great ride day due to this silly bad design. Regardless all the TH-cams are temporary fixes and will happen again. I easily came up with a permanent fix that will never fail.

If the battery is going dead that fast, something is drawing it down electrically, or you have a bad battery.

Is the regulator/rectifier isn’t hooked up, the stator will basically do nothing. Once it’s hooked up, it will rectify the ac voltage to DC and regulate the voltage down to 12-14.6 volts dc.

You’re welcome.

Solid plan. There is generally a few ounces still in the case, so nothing to worry about.

Replace it will an Allen :)

I have no idea.

On the Iron, stock is 11”, and I put 11.5” on. 12s will work if the taller seat height isn’t a problem.

You’re welcome. I am glad it helped.

Thank you.

You’re welcome

😂😂😂. It was early in the video editing learning curve.

@ hey man, regardless I watched the whole thing and it was very informative l, I feel confident I can install the 95” big bore I just bought for my 03 low rider

@ I’m glad to hear it. Just take your time and label everything.

It was just a few ounces. 🤷‍♂️

K&N 170b

@KnobleMoto Thank you for sharing such valuable knowledge and experience, greetings from Indonesia ❤️🇮🇩

@ you’re welcome. Greeting from Cleveland Ohio, USA.

Thanks! That’s a great price!!!

Thank you & Happy New Year to you too

You’re welcome. I’m glad it helped.

@@KnobleMoto Took me about 4 hours, but I was doing this on the ground using my motorcycle jack and a car jack. I did the rear one first, and I managed to get both installed own Saturday, and went on a 218 mile ride Sunday. I think my head may be playing with me, but the bike felt tighter. The old mounts: rear "looked" ok but I could see the cracks in the rubber, like age... front was cracked and torn rubber. 1000% chance the mounts were original. Again, thanks for preventing me from removing a bunch of parts or give up altogether.

@ you’re welcome. It probably was more nimble. The swingarm is attached to the transmission, which is held in place by the rubber mounts. So if the mounts are flexing, it will affect the bikes handling.

👍👍👍👍. That was pretty much the point. Thank you for getting it.

@@KnobleMoto Point well taken.

Thanks

I tied a single wire to the old one before I pulled it out. If you already pulled the old one out, try sticking a zip tie through there to use as a pull wire.

You’re welcome. I am glad to hear that it helped.

The Shinkos seem to be a wee bit better in the rain vs the Night Dragons. Then seem to be having the same mileage range. I would go with the Shinko.

@KnobleMoto Thanks for your reply. I'm thinking of shinkos .. but when I went to tyre shop, the guy said they aren't that great and suggested Avon cobra chromes. Avon's are great tyres, I have them on my Sportster. But if shinkos are similar in wet grip as night dragons I will go with shinkos white walls.

Yes! Sometimes I get focused on getting the shot, and I overlook details like that until I am working on it.

That is all probably accurate if you are racing on a road course, and you are chasing tenths of a second of lap time. For street use; keep it in the 75-90% range and you will be fine.

Sonofabeech. I never realized that! Thanks.

They are. But they are also much nicer than the once I get from H.F.

You're welcome!

Yes they are!!!

Was it sitting for a long time? If not, I wouldn’t be too concerned. I would change the oil now, then doo it again at 3k, then every 5k after that.

You are welcome.

.

Did you assume my assumptions?

If you use the impact driver, you can take it out and replace it with an Allen.

Yes it is!!

It was!!!

I felt the same way. Apparently they wanted to save a penny 🤷‍♂️

👏👏👏😂😂😂😂😂

The owner just did a 3000 mile trip on it. She is a serious rider.

The bike should be upright when you check the transmission oil. You could technically fill it on the side stand. They say you can do the trans every other engine oil change. But I can’t keep that straight, so I just change it every time. Spark plugs should be good to 20-30k

@KnobleMoto many thanks for the info.

@@jaachak you’re welcome.

Not really. Not unless it was corroded over or the shaft was stuck.

I have a concern that in case I don't replace the throttle plate, I soak the whole thing into the parts cleaner for several days, would the loctite on the screws of throttle plate be melted so they are loosened and may fail apart under big vibration which can be a nightmare?

@ no you will probably have to use a heat gun or torch to cook the thread locker out of there. I don’t think carb cleaner would be strong enough.

I spilt some, and the local parts store only had Valvoline. I don’t think a few ounces are going to make a difference and it’s not like Valvoline is junk oil.

It’s surprising how bad they get.

@@KnobleMotoyeah I just picked up my bike from my brother who’s been riding it the last year and it’s insanely sloppy.