Thank you so much for this video. I don't have a lot of patience putting things together. With your help, I was able to toss out the instructions and expertly put this rig together. Of course, the only hard part for me was when I had to install the "new" pedal tray. This video was excellent, your voice was clear and commanding, your shots were illustrative. Thanks so much!
Not sure if GT omega has mentioned it but their new pedal tray is a massive improvement from the first batches for cockpits. Its basically 2 10mm thick aluminum plates that sandwich 2 pieces of profile.
@@mauromicheletti4627 It should.. you can adjust pretty much everything so I'd be surprised if they didn't. I'm using the CSL Elite pedals and they don't move an inch.
This was fantastic. I used this and the Part 2 video as my step by step guide to assembling my GT Omega Prime, and then dipped into the TrakRacer TR160 Build for the Seat mounting.
I am currently halfway through building mine, thank you for the deep dive and instructional video. Two things since this came out, the pedal plate is now made up from the aluminium pieces instead of that shoddy steel plate and secondly, when I was following your advice on the black screws for the side supports you mentioned there was only one type of the recessed screws but there are now two, and I happened to find the longer ones first and managed to damage channel trying to get these in following the advice here. Seems they changed a fair bit since yours.
I have the GT Omega Prime, rock solid. what I really like is that is compatible with other 8020 cockpit accessories. I got the keyboard holder from Trakracer, and the NLR motion platform v3 adapter from SimLab P1(x). (tip: you can mount the motion platform with a perfect low profile and the buttkicker adapter by moving the back piece to the front, and using the lower profile seat bars in the back - gives it room for the buttkicker to move and keep the low profile).
So glad you do videos like this. I am in China so I bought a Chinese copy (branded as something else but 90% identical to this) and put it together last night. Made several mistakes one of which affected the rigidity of the wheel base. Rewatch this video and problem solved!!! Thanks Sim Racing Garage.
I had the same issue with the flex on the pedal board. I’m using Heusinkveld Sprint pedals. Also had that “popping” sound you mention. I discovered that the screws provided were just a tiny bit too long, so that when you think you have it as tight as it goes it’s actually not. The screw is hitting the aluminum profile, so the pedal board is just loose enough to “pop” under certain circumstances. I ended up purchasing the Sim-Lab P1-X upgrade kit and replacing the stock pedal board with that. Works like a charm, but ultimately it brought the cost up enough that it would’ve been almost the same to purchase the complete P1-X rig to begin with.
Yes, the thin pedal tray metal lets the M8 bolt bottom out on the profile channel. I used washers to shim the bolt heads. Still had the rattle in the pedal tray when thumping it because the support bar does not have enough welding on it. They should have run a bead along the entire length instead of just spot welding. Still you found the best solution. The P1X pedal tray assembly puts the Prime's pedal tray to shame. More about this in the "Setup" video that will be out soon.
Just built my rig and this video was amazing help!! Best video online for this rig although mine was the prime lite only difference I could see was wheel deck but what a great help this was 🙌🏻 They have improved the basic pedal plate by adding another welded bar across the bottom so now it has two. My rig also came with the spring ball t nuts which are great 😃 although it seems the design has changed as I can’t seem to roll them in like you did the central part that slides along the groove is too high and stop it rolling in. Very annoying when you forget something or miss some nuts and have to undo rig to slide them in 🙄🤦🏻♂️
Why do you say the pedal tray is a major floor? Also, I’m new to sim racing and in every review, reviewers and comments are always mentioning “FLEX” . Do you know exactly what this means? I noticed that I sometimes feel some vibration , coming from force feedback of wheel, on my foot peddles. Is this considered as flex? Or does flex mean that the actual rig moves as result of force feedback?
Basically it means that you will physically feel the pedals move under hard braking. I run DSD pedals which require a lot of leg. Real world pedals don't move so it breaks the immersion...which is what we are all after. Hope that helps.
Glad to hear it. I've bought and sold probably 6 cockpits over the years. So at this point I'm looking for a zero compromise rig that I won't need to upgrade for the foreseeable future regardless of hardware.
You gave more information than the GT Omega customer service reps were able to (Or willing to). I bought their monitor mount, and decided to attach some accessories to it. Well, the 40 series t-nuts I had just rattled down the channels like you showed. I was able to get them to work (With no shortage of frustration), but I was completely put off. I was figuring they were using some oddball proprietary custom size framing to lock you into buying their accessories and expansions. I reached out to their CSR, and they have no idea what size t-nuts their products need. They just kept telling me "M8", which was useless information. After showing them a picture of the t-nut size comparison, they finally suggested the leaf spring t-nuts (Still without know what series I'd need). They were also unable to tell me if the Prime and Prime Lite rig would have this same issue. I decided I would not go forward with the Prime cockpit because I figured they were up to some funny stuff. But in the first few minutes of your video, you made it make complete sense. Using deeper grooves is kind of a cheesy tactic that I'm sure they saved some money on, though I guess the lower weight is nice if I ever have to move it. I hate those leaf spring t-nuts compared to the ball t-nuts, but I guess they serve the purpose. Even though I'm still very turned off by the lack of knowledge of their CSR's, your video might have gotten them a sale back. I guess I'll have to head on over to Part 2 to see how it performed before I make up my mind though ;)
Thank you so much for your video, very well detailed and easy to follow. I’ve just finished putting my prime cockpit together and I really doubt I’d have managed without your video as the instructions that come with the rig are trash! Thanks again!
I used a small dremel cutting disk to pre score the corner brackets so they would break off clean. Secondly you don't need to slide in the t nuts. You can just pop them which is mentioned in the instructions. Also the pedal mount now has two soldered support braces which adds rigidity. This is my 4th 80/20 build and the black finish on the Gt Omega is the best I have seen. Sim labs and Trak racer profile both scratched easily. Not this one. Got it for 599 +tax shipped. Great deal
Glad to see this comment, I'm looking for a rig and saw the price of the gt omega. One question, all of these 8020 rig companies seem to build their rigs to 580mm/58cm wide, this means the space inside the side profiles is only 500mm. Does that feel big enough for you without feeling cramped? I use an old e30 BMW seat which will just barely mount inside a 500mm width. I don't want to feel like my knees are easily touching the pedal rises, I like to have some room in the rig and not feel cramped. Currently I use a custom pvc rig which i built quite large and I really like the extra space.
@@sethfrancissimracing7558 I too had a custom rig which was wider and had the same concerns back in the day. The width of the GT Omega prime is fine . The inside dimension Is just over 20"
@@stevep927 awesome, thank you so much. Just to confirm, is the inside dimension of the main frame itself 20" (like the distance between the two long side frame pieces that run front to back) or is 20" the distance between the inside of the wheel rises. I emailed gt omega about the dimensions of the inside of the side fame rails but haven't heard back. I assume the inside width of the frame would be 500mm, which is right around 20" because they have the overall width of the frame as 580mm and if you subtract the thickness of the two 40mm frame rails that would be 500mm. I'm just trying to confirm because their online width dimensions don't say weather that is total with (including the wheel risers and wheel riser mounting plates which are both mounted outside the frame rails and add to the width) or if the dimension they are claiming is the actual main frame width not including the thickness of the wheel risers and mounting plates.
Thank you for comparing the actual profile itself between the different offerings. It’s really helping one decide which to put their $$ , I wonder how sim lab specific profile compares; as that video was done way before the influx of the current 8020 lot
I'm receiving this cockpit tomorrow. Already dreading the build because I'm not too good with instructions 😅 Edit: I'll be following your video when I assemble it.
I just finished putting mine together and can report that the new pedal tray Omega upgraded to after poor reviews of the initial units is extremely solid. It better be, it's probably 20 lbs all by itself. Definitely corrects the primary complaint of this review.
Picked up mine with the 10% pre order discount so came in a decent amount cheaper than competition in the UK. Very happy with the purchase. Rock solid with a DD1 and no flex in the pedal tray with V3's installed. Only issue with the tray was the spacing/size of the slots as needed so large diameter washers to hold the bolts in place. Be nice if they supplied caps for the corner brackets hiding the silver bolts to complete the all black look.
Man, I just bought one of these. It should be here Tuesday. I've probably watched this video 10x just getting mentally prepared for when it arrives. Just wanted to say how thankful I am for your videos. You're awesome man.
Great video as always. The Prime is what I ended up getting because it was cheaper then a P1X when shipped to the US. I used what I saved and got an inverted pedal tray from Trak Racer. Very happy with my choice.
Looks like a fantastic rig...... Pedal tray aside. GT Omega seems to always do this, was the same reason I eventually just returned my GT omega titan. Thanks barry!
I pre-ordered and got mine at the end of the year. And I can say the pedal deck does flex a bit. I didn't notice it with my CSP V2's, but once I installed my HE Sprints, oh man. The front bows quite a bit, half-inch or so depending on load. And I run the Sprints out of the box, only recently got them so haven't felt a need to adjust just yet. I'm trying to figure a way to reduce the flex without retrofitting another brand's pedal deck. Was considering Trak Racer's deck, or just grabbing 8020 myself and cutting to fit for a more solid and flat deck. I may try your install method first, without using the angle mount option and mount directly to the frame. As always, great video and details.
Hi Nicholas, I’m new to sim racing. You say the paddle deck has flex. What exactly is flex? Is it feeling vibration from force feedback, on the foot paddles?
@@grahamkelly8662 welcome to an incredible hobby that I hope brings you many years of enjoyment. Be warned, it can also be a money pit. 😉. For the pedal deck, flex means the medal base you mount your pedals to actually bends/bows and flexes under pressure. In my case with the GT Omega Prime, which I must say has been excellent in every other way, the rear area of the pedal deck will bend upward under load from the stronger brake forces typical with HE Sprint pedals. Much like a fender or hood of a car bends and flexes as you press into it. Only the pedal force is actually pulling the deck itself upward. I’m going to try mounting the pedals close to the rear edge in hopes of gain stability. They’re only an inch or so from the edge now, so I’m not sure if that will resolve it. And as I said above, I’m going to remount them without the angle mounts, as Barry did for his build.
I had to drop my plate all the way down and not use the brackets. Have about over a month on this rig. Love it. Need some more parts! For monitor mount/ keyboard
hmm after that review Im quite happy I went with the Simlab P1-X, as I got thicker profiles and a way better pedal tray design for almost the same money.
Happy with My P1-X too,i think Simlabs have the most refined 8020 rig, worth paying more for Simlabs pedal tray alone. Also Simlabs has excellent customer service.
hi, you say there’s no metal rattling on the paddle plate. I just bought my first rig and I noticed that the force feedback from wheel, would sometimes make my foot pedal vibrate. Is this considered as flex?
Can't say that I have any rattle in my pedal tray with my unit, nor any really noticeable flex. Perhaps it does but I certainly don't feel any. I do echo that it would be nice to have a spring based T-nut instead but as you mentioned, it's not impossible to work with. Shifter mount is definitely solid, I stood on mine and it starts to tilt the whole rig, definitely solid there. I felt that it definitely was a decent value compared to what else I could actually get ahold of, all things considered. One thing that people do need to keep in mind is their location - some areas of the world do have quite a difference when shipping is factored in. Add in your seat costs and such, and it could be a hundred or two more, at least at the time I ordered mine, and even recently when I looked. Looking forward to the driving impressions, but I've certainly loved using mine so far, and a lot of the irks that I've seen other reviews mention too, really are just nitpicking as opposed to genuine issues.
Really like your stuff! But I have to say the slight pedal flex in the tray is not a deterrent for me. I ordered mine a week ago. Already got it! All else fails it’s easy enough to reinforce. The price point is excellent! In the 4 x 1 60 base frame is a number one
Another excellent review, thank you Barry. My concrete floor doesn’t flex at all under my Heusinkveld Sprint load cell brake, the oak desk doesn’t shake with the DD1, and my IKEA chair is comfortable for hours of racing... I guess I won’t be upgrading any time soon. 😀
I regret getting this over paying a bit extra for the Sim Lab. It was hyped as being much cheaper than anything else... well, Sim Lab was actually cheaper with their November discount but sadly stock ran out everywhere.
@@nathant7813 When the Sim Lab was discounted, it was even cheaper than the discounted than the GT Omega rig as stated above, and the GT Omega arrived with some big dings and extensive scratches caused by packaging, not just shipping, and though it is an overall sturdy build, the Sim Labs has thicker framing, and the GTO's pedal plate design is underwhelming and it flexes. The GT Omega doesn't look too bad but the Sim Labs has better finishes too. Their (GTO) rig also was not designed to work with their XL chair and is an absolute pain to install certain seats too. Lastly, they have skimped on having additional parts (nuts, etc) which can break or be damaged by shipping or installation, so you have to sort it out yourself.
Hi, I'm going to order the GT Omega prime after watching your review. I have the Fanatec DD Pro for PS5 and on the GT Omega wheel deck plates they have DD as an option for the wheel. My question is which is better the flat based wheel top or the famatec DD option? Which would be more sturdy? Please help lol. Thank you
Just bought one without the seat for 24% off. I already have a GT Omega XL seat so that will go right on this. Unfortunately at lot of the extras are out of stock. I could only get the floor mat and the mouse tray.
I bought this rigg, will be putting it together tomorrow, my heart sank tho when I seen the box, although it was designed in Scotland of all places, its made in CHINA
I had 4 larger washers with mine. In the manual ther're shown on page 2 at the bottom where it shows all parts. (just above the picture of the 4m 5m and 6m allen wrenches) Except in the rest of the instructions... they don't go anywhere. And here Barry doesn't even have them. Anyone know what those 4 washers are meant for?
Hi, a Super professional video as always...Im just to buy one of this cockpits but I plan to use the VRS Mich bracket...and I see that u show in 39:30 a mich base...so Theres a diference in that base and the VRS Bracket...so let me Know if the VRS bracket fits in this wheel deck...as always Tks for ure Channel
I'm installing the kit right now and putting things together, and you really sort of gloss over just how bad the threading on the T Nuts are. 90% of my T Nuts have threading issues and it's a pain in the ass.
Hi mate, I'm about to make a decision and buy this one, saw your comment so just wondering how did it go for you? Were you able to put it together, completed? Any other issues apart from the T nuts threading? Any feedback you have will be greatly appreciated! Cheers
@@brunofgallo I managed to put it together. It wasn't that bad, I just had bad luck and ran into several bad T nuts in a row. Regardless, I'm going to send them an email telling them to find a different t nut supplier.
@@brunofgallo No problem, good luck with your build. Wear gloves and make sure that you separate the 20mm bolts from the 16mm bolts, they come in the same bag and look virtually identical. I screwed in several of the 20mm bolts where I was supposed to put in 16mms, and I thought I had a bad thread, but it was just because the bolt was too long. Rig is otherwise solid. I also recommend installing the seat assembly rails over the two horizontal pieces before you attach the horizontal pieces to the long rails. That's going to make it easier to line up it up and you're not going to have to measure it out after you install and figure out if you have an exact square. You just put in t nuts, and then lower the seat base in between the two long pieces and screw in the bolts. I spent approximately an hour trying to get the seat rails to line up with a mallet because I did what the guy in the video did.
For me, it was availability and cost of shipping to the US. I almost bought a cockpit from SimLabs like 10 times but they were not taking orders, had a long lead time, or I just couldn’t stomach the cost for shipping. I know there’s some compromise but I like this cockpit a lot so far.
@@KuSQ3N it's been a while since I loaded a cart at Simlabs but I think it would've been like $200+ to ship and the site mentions "import duties" that may need to be paid by the customer. GtOmega has a US distribution center and I paid $0 for shipping. Sometimes you can find coupon codes too (I got 10% off)
Ive just ordered mine and they have now changed the pedal tray to a very thick and heavy version that looks solid as a rock
Thank you so much for this video. I don't have a lot of patience putting things together. With your help, I was able to toss out the instructions and expertly put this rig together. Of course, the only hard part for me was when I had to install the "new" pedal tray. This video was excellent, your voice was clear and commanding, your shots were illustrative. Thanks so much!
Not sure if GT omega has mentioned it but their new pedal tray is a massive improvement from the first batches for cockpits. Its basically 2 10mm thick aluminum plates that sandwich 2 pieces of profile.
This is good to know, I see old reviews and they look so flimsy compared to the current pictures.
@@adamalam6218 I just got the prime and it’s so much better than the videos you’re talking about.. GT omega definitely watches these videos!
@@ethandolny do you know if it is compatible with CSL Fanatec pedals?
@@mauromicheletti4627 It should.. you can adjust pretty much everything so I'd be surprised if they didn't. I'm using the CSL Elite pedals and they don't move an inch.
After all the times i've watched this video, im finally here building my rig alongside you :)
This was fantastic. I used this and the Part 2 video as my step by step guide to assembling my GT Omega Prime, and then dipped into the TrakRacer TR160 Build for the Seat mounting.
I am currently halfway through building mine, thank you for the deep dive and instructional video.
Two things since this came out, the pedal plate is now made up from the aluminium pieces instead of that shoddy steel plate and secondly, when I was following your advice on the black screws for the side supports you mentioned there was only one type of the recessed screws but there are now two, and I happened to find the longer ones first and managed to damage channel trying to get these in following the advice here. Seems they changed a fair bit since yours.
I have the GT Omega Prime, rock solid. what I really like is that is compatible with other 8020 cockpit accessories. I got the keyboard holder from Trakracer, and the NLR motion platform v3 adapter from SimLab P1(x). (tip: you can mount the motion platform with a perfect low profile and the buttkicker adapter by moving the back piece to the front, and using the lower profile seat bars in the back - gives it room for the buttkicker to move and keep the low profile).
there no pedal plate rattle with that change. V3 pedals.
This is an amazing video - thank you v much. Also appreciate you recording audio properly very pleasant to watch/listen to.
So glad you do videos like this. I am in China so I bought a Chinese copy (branded as something else but 90% identical to this) and put it together last night. Made several mistakes one of which affected the rigidity of the wheel base. Rewatch this video and problem solved!!! Thanks Sim Racing Garage.
I had the same issue with the flex on the pedal board. I’m using Heusinkveld Sprint pedals. Also had that “popping” sound you mention. I discovered that the screws provided were just a tiny bit too long, so that when you think you have it as tight as it goes it’s actually not. The screw is hitting the aluminum profile, so the pedal board is just loose enough to “pop” under certain circumstances. I ended up purchasing the Sim-Lab P1-X upgrade kit and replacing the stock pedal board with that. Works like a charm, but ultimately it brought the cost up enough that it would’ve been almost the same to purchase the complete P1-X rig to begin with.
Yes, the thin pedal tray metal lets the M8 bolt bottom out on the profile channel. I used washers to shim the bolt heads. Still had the rattle in the pedal tray when thumping it because the support bar does not have enough welding on it. They should have run a bead along the entire length instead of just spot welding. Still you found the best solution. The P1X pedal tray assembly puts the Prime's pedal tray to shame. More about this in the "Setup" video that will be out soon.
Just built my rig and this video was amazing help!! Best video online for this rig although mine was the prime lite only difference I could see was wheel deck but what a great help this was 🙌🏻 They have improved the basic pedal plate by adding another welded bar across the bottom so now it has two. My rig also came with the spring ball t nuts which are great 😃 although it seems the design has changed as I can’t seem to roll them in like you did the central part that slides along the groove is too high and stop it rolling in. Very annoying when you forget something or miss some nuts and have to undo rig to slide them in 🙄🤦🏻♂️
That pedal tray design is a major flaw for me. So the ASR 6 it is! Thanks as usual Barry.
Why do you say the pedal tray is a major floor? Also, I’m new to sim racing and in every review, reviewers and comments are always mentioning “FLEX” . Do you know exactly what this means? I noticed that I sometimes feel some vibration , coming from force feedback of wheel, on my foot peddles. Is this considered as flex? Or does flex mean that the actual rig moves as result of force feedback?
Basically it means that you will physically feel the pedals move under hard braking. I run DSD pedals which require a lot of leg. Real world pedals don't move so it breaks the immersion...which is what we are all after. Hope that helps.
I have this rig and don’t notice any flex at all.
I use the TLCM pedals and don’t feel any flex beyond the TLCM having a little flex in its own plastic base. I really like this cockpit so far though.
Glad to hear it. I've bought and sold probably 6 cockpits over the years. So at this point I'm looking for a zero compromise rig that I won't need to upgrade for the foreseeable future regardless of hardware.
You gave more information than the GT Omega customer service reps were able to (Or willing to). I bought their monitor mount, and decided to attach some accessories to it. Well, the 40 series t-nuts I had just rattled down the channels like you showed. I was able to get them to work (With no shortage of frustration), but I was completely put off. I was figuring they were using some oddball proprietary custom size framing to lock you into buying their accessories and expansions. I reached out to their CSR, and they have no idea what size t-nuts their products need. They just kept telling me "M8", which was useless information. After showing them a picture of the t-nut size comparison, they finally suggested the leaf spring t-nuts (Still without know what series I'd need). They were also unable to tell me if the Prime and Prime Lite rig would have this same issue. I decided I would not go forward with the Prime cockpit because I figured they were up to some funny stuff.
But in the first few minutes of your video, you made it make complete sense. Using deeper grooves is kind of a cheesy tactic that I'm sure they saved some money on, though I guess the lower weight is nice if I ever have to move it. I hate those leaf spring t-nuts compared to the ball t-nuts, but I guess they serve the purpose. Even though I'm still very turned off by the lack of knowledge of their CSR's, your video might have gotten them a sale back. I guess I'll have to head on over to Part 2 to see how it performed before I make up my mind though ;)
Thank you so much for your video, very well detailed and easy to follow. I’ve just finished putting my prime cockpit together and I really doubt I’d have managed without your video as the instructions that come with the rig are trash! Thanks again!
I used a small dremel cutting disk to pre score the corner brackets so they would break off clean. Secondly you don't need to slide in the t nuts. You can just pop them which is mentioned in the instructions. Also the pedal mount now has two soldered support braces which adds rigidity. This is my 4th 80/20 build and the black finish on the Gt Omega is the best I have seen. Sim labs and Trak racer profile both scratched easily. Not this one. Got it for 599 +tax shipped. Great deal
Glad to see this comment, I'm looking for a rig and saw the price of the gt omega. One question, all of these 8020 rig companies seem to build their rigs to 580mm/58cm wide, this means the space inside the side profiles is only 500mm. Does that feel big enough for you without feeling cramped? I use an old e30 BMW seat which will just barely mount inside a 500mm width. I don't want to feel like my knees are easily touching the pedal rises, I like to have some room in the rig and not feel cramped. Currently I use a custom pvc rig which i built quite large and I really like the extra space.
@@sethfrancissimracing7558 I too had a custom rig which was wider and had the same concerns back in the day. The width of the GT Omega prime is fine . The inside dimension Is just over 20"
@@stevep927 awesome, thank you so much. Just to confirm, is the inside dimension of the main frame itself 20" (like the distance between the two long side frame pieces that run front to back) or is 20" the distance between the inside of the wheel rises. I emailed gt omega about the dimensions of the inside of the side fame rails but haven't heard back. I assume the inside width of the frame would be 500mm, which is right around 20" because they have the overall width of the frame as 580mm and if you subtract the thickness of the two 40mm frame rails that would be 500mm. I'm just trying to confirm because their online width dimensions don't say weather that is total with (including the wheel risers and wheel riser mounting plates which are both mounted outside the frame rails and add to the width) or if the dimension they are claiming is the actual main frame width not including the thickness of the wheel risers and mounting plates.
Thank you for comparing the actual profile itself between the different offerings. It’s really helping one decide which to put their $$ , I wonder how sim lab specific profile compares; as that video was done way before the influx of the current 8020 lot
I'm receiving this cockpit tomorrow. Already dreading the build because I'm not too good with instructions 😅
Edit: I'll be following your video when I assemble it.
I'm watching sat in my Omega Prime and I love it the pedal tray on mine has no issues.
Thanks for the review Barry..
I just finished putting mine together and can report that the new pedal tray Omega upgraded to after poor reviews of the initial units is extremely solid. It better be, it's probably 20 lbs all by itself. Definitely corrects the primary complaint of this review.
Picked up mine with the 10% pre order discount so came in a decent amount cheaper than competition in the UK. Very happy with the purchase.
Rock solid with a DD1 and no flex in the pedal tray with V3's installed.
Only issue with the tray was the spacing/size of the slots as needed so large diameter washers to hold the bolts in place.
Be nice if they supplied caps for the corner brackets hiding the silver bolts to complete the all black look.
Well, you should have bought from Simlab then, gt omega seems to be the Fanatec of alu rigs (and thats not a compliment)
Man, I just bought one of these. It should be here Tuesday. I've probably watched this video 10x just getting mentally prepared for when it arrives.
Just wanted to say how thankful I am for your videos. You're awesome man.
Great video as always. The Prime is what I ended up getting because it was cheaper then a P1X when shipped to the US. I used what I saved and got an inverted pedal tray from Trak Racer. Very happy with my choice.
Awesome, I was hoping SRG would do a review of this cockpit. Great job as always. 👍
Looks like a fantastic rig...... Pedal tray aside. GT Omega seems to always do this, was the same reason I eventually just returned my GT omega titan. Thanks barry!
I pre-ordered and got mine at the end of the year. And I can say the pedal deck does flex a bit. I didn't notice it with my CSP V2's, but once I installed my HE Sprints, oh man. The front bows quite a bit, half-inch or so depending on load. And I run the Sprints out of the box, only recently got them so haven't felt a need to adjust just yet. I'm trying to figure a way to reduce the flex without retrofitting another brand's pedal deck. Was considering Trak Racer's deck, or just grabbing 8020 myself and cutting to fit for a more solid and flat deck. I may try your install method first, without using the angle mount option and mount directly to the frame. As always, great video and details.
Hi Nicholas, I’m new to sim racing. You say the paddle deck has flex. What exactly is flex? Is it feeling vibration from force feedback, on the foot paddles?
@@grahamkelly8662 welcome to an incredible hobby that I hope brings you many years of enjoyment. Be warned, it can also be a money pit. 😉. For the pedal deck, flex means the medal base you mount your pedals to actually bends/bows and flexes under pressure. In my case with the GT Omega Prime, which I must say has been excellent in every other way, the rear area of the pedal deck will bend upward under load from the stronger brake forces typical with HE Sprint pedals. Much like a fender or hood of a car bends and flexes as you press into it. Only the pedal force is actually pulling the deck itself upward. I’m going to try mounting the pedals close to the rear edge in hopes of gain stability. They’re only an inch or so from the edge now, so I’m not sure if that will resolve it. And as I said above, I’m going to remount them without the angle mounts, as Barry did for his build.
Great video watched the whole thing love how u broke the build part by part and took your time I'm looking to get a cockpit
With the christmas sale + prom code (and the usual free shipping) I got this for $631 USD today!!!! Cant wait for it to arrive!
I had to drop my plate all the way down and not use the brackets. Have about over a month on this rig. Love it. Need some more parts! For monitor mount/ keyboard
hmm after that review Im quite happy I went with the Simlab P1-X, as I got thicker profiles and a way better pedal tray design for almost the same money.
How much was it?
@@nicololorenzon3291 currently could get it for 732€ shipped to me
@@jinx20001 50€ price difference, Im still glad I bought the P1-X for 50€ more.
Happy with My P1-X too,i think Simlabs have the most refined 8020 rig, worth paying more for Simlabs pedal tray alone. Also Simlabs has excellent customer service.
hi, you say there’s no metal rattling on the paddle plate. I just bought my first rig and I noticed that the force feedback from wheel, would sometimes make my foot pedal vibrate. Is this considered as flex?
Can't say that I have any rattle in my pedal tray with my unit, nor any really noticeable flex. Perhaps it does but I certainly don't feel any. I do echo that it would be nice to have a spring based T-nut instead but as you mentioned, it's not impossible to work with. Shifter mount is definitely solid, I stood on mine and it starts to tilt the whole rig, definitely solid there. I felt that it definitely was a decent value compared to what else I could actually get ahold of, all things considered. One thing that people do need to keep in mind is their location - some areas of the world do have quite a difference when shipping is factored in. Add in your seat costs and such, and it could be a hundred or two more, at least at the time I ordered mine, and even recently when I looked. Looking forward to the driving impressions, but I've certainly loved using mine so far, and a lot of the irks that I've seen other reviews mention too, really are just nitpicking as opposed to genuine issues.
Thanks for the upload. I've been waiting to see if you were going to review this. 👍
That is a nice and shiny Rickenbacker guitar you got there
Shame this wasnt available when i built my rig, looks great value
Damn..... I’ve got a Playseat Evolution and I’m damn jealous!
Really like your stuff! But I have to say the slight pedal flex in the tray is not a deterrent for me. I ordered mine a week ago. Already got it! All else fails it’s easy enough to reinforce. The price point is excellent! In the 4 x 1 60 base frame is a number one
Thank you Barry.
Thank you for the video Gary, you rock man!
Great work as always!
SRG need some T-shirts and other Merch with "So...Lets Get To It" on 'em.
Another excellent review, thank you Barry. My concrete floor doesn’t flex at all under my Heusinkveld Sprint load cell brake, the oak desk doesn’t shake with the DD1, and my IKEA chair is comfortable for hours of racing... I guess I won’t be upgrading any time soon. 😀
This is barely less expensive than combining a Motedis S-Dream with a basic seat from Ricmotech, which has the benefit of using standard profile.
I regret getting this over paying a bit extra for the Sim Lab. It was hyped as being much cheaper than anything else... well, Sim Lab was actually cheaper with their November discount but sadly stock ran out everywhere.
Why do you regret it? What was the problem?
@@nathant7813 When the Sim Lab was discounted, it was even cheaper than the discounted than the GT Omega rig as stated above, and the GT Omega arrived with some big dings and extensive scratches caused by packaging, not just shipping, and though it is an overall sturdy build, the Sim Labs has thicker framing, and the GTO's pedal plate design is underwhelming and it flexes. The GT Omega doesn't look too bad but the Sim Labs has better finishes too. Their (GTO) rig also was not designed to work with their XL chair and is an absolute pain to install certain seats too. Lastly, they have skimped on having additional parts (nuts, etc) which can break or be damaged by shipping or installation, so you have to sort it out yourself.
They probably should have went with 40mmX120mm instead of 40X160mm and upgraded the pedal tray.
I agree
You are the best! Around.
I have this rig and it’s great and only cost me just over £500 👍🏻
Great Rig!
comparing btw this GT Omega rs6 ($900) vs TR 160($1179) .
thanks for review.
Awesome they are going aluminum extrusion profiles now as well, but why did they cheap out on the pedal tray!?.. .
Had to shave costs somewhere
Hi, I'm going to order the GT Omega prime after watching your review. I have the Fanatec DD Pro for PS5 and on the GT Omega wheel deck plates they have DD as an option for the wheel. My question is which is better the flat based wheel top or the famatec DD option? Which would be more sturdy? Please help lol. Thank you
Just bought one without the seat for 24% off. I already have a GT Omega XL seat so that will go right on this. Unfortunately at lot of the extras are out of stock. I could only get the floor mat and the mouse tray.
Did you have a discount code to get 24%off?
Hey! What a fantastic review. I see you held up a MIGE front motor mount to the chassis and it fits. Please, what front mount was this?
Great review!! Please, in your opinion which are the main pros and cons comparing this Omega Prime with SimLab Gt1-Evo? Thanks
Could you review the Titan cockpit next? Not sure if it’s better than the Art or Pro
Would you recommend using blue loctite on the blind bolts for the uprights?
I use blue loctite for all blind bolts.
I bought this rigg, will be putting it together tomorrow, my heart sank tho when I seen the box, although it was designed in Scotland of all places, its made in CHINA
Yeah like most things these days, specially aggressively priced items like this lol.
Its a shame this don't come with the option of the DD front mount style wheel mount
I had 4 larger washers with mine. In the manual ther're shown on page 2 at the bottom where it shows all parts. (just above the picture of the 4m 5m and 6m allen wrenches) Except in the rest of the instructions... they don't go anywhere. And here Barry doesn't even have them. Anyone know what those 4 washers are meant for?
Hi, a Super professional video as always...Im just to buy one of this cockpits but I plan to use the VRS Mich bracket...and I see that u show in 39:30 a mich base...so Theres a diference in that base and the VRS Bracket...so let me Know if the VRS bracket fits in this wheel deck...as always Tks for ure Channel
You can try contacting GT Omega for questions. Their support has been pretty great, at least in the EU.
@@aliniordachescu947 yes I contact there customer support and the dont know exactly...so they tale me that making new holes if nesesary...tks anyway
Do you mean Mige?
Mines solid 👍🏻 can’t fault it
Been looking everywhere does this rig. Come with feet????
I'm installing the kit right now and putting things together, and you really sort of gloss over just how bad the threading on the T Nuts are. 90% of my T Nuts have threading issues and it's a pain in the ass.
Hi mate, I'm about to make a decision and buy this one, saw your comment so just wondering how did it go for you? Were you able to put it together, completed? Any other issues apart from the T nuts threading? Any feedback you have will be greatly appreciated! Cheers
@@brunofgallo I managed to put it together. It wasn't that bad, I just had bad luck and ran into several bad T nuts in a row. Regardless, I'm going to send them an email telling them to find a different t nut supplier.
@@aka_pierre Thanks for replying mate
@@brunofgallo No problem, good luck with your build. Wear gloves and make sure that you separate the 20mm bolts from the 16mm bolts, they come in the same bag and look virtually identical. I screwed in several of the 20mm bolts where I was supposed to put in 16mms, and I thought I had a bad thread, but it was just because the bolt was too long. Rig is otherwise solid.
I also recommend installing the seat assembly rails over the two horizontal pieces before you attach the horizontal pieces to the long rails. That's going to make it easier to line up it up and you're not going to have to measure it out after you install and figure out if you have an exact square. You just put in t nuts, and then lower the seat base in between the two long pieces and screw in the bolts. I spent approximately an hour trying to get the seat rails to line up with a mallet because I did what the guy in the video did.
@@aka_pierre awesome mate, thanks again for the detailed information and advice! cheers
Barry, do you know how I can buy a Sim-Labs GT1 EVO?I live in the US.
Anybody know how long the wheel plate is? Is it 600mm like the sim labs p1?
yeah couple of cosmetics i dont like but the pedal tray looks too cheap
mine arrived missing parts and all scratched up! gt omega support was zero help... wish I would have ordered from any other company.
43:06 frog
The video has only been up 2 mins and that same one person always dislikes barry's vids... who the hell is is it ffs ????
I always noticed that too! 🤣😂
@@atrain132 Im deffo sure were not the only ones
I have one of those on my channel too...
dislikes are as good as a like
dislike is as good as a like
Hey barry any plans for sparco gaming formula seat/cockpit review?
So optimus primes brother is a sim rig....
why would anyone buy this over a gt1 or a p1 simlabs
For me, it was availability and cost of shipping to the US. I almost bought a cockpit from SimLabs like 10 times but they were not taking orders, had a long lead time, or I just couldn’t stomach the cost for shipping. I know there’s some compromise but I like this cockpit a lot so far.
@@sin0suke how much is the shipping?
@@KuSQ3N it's been a while since I loaded a cart at Simlabs but I think it would've been like $200+ to ship and the site mentions "import duties" that may need to be paid by the customer. GtOmega has a US distribution center and I paid $0 for shipping. Sometimes you can find coupon codes too (I got 10% off)
@@sin0suke oh that sucks :/ I payed 420$ with everything to Sweden very happy
@@KuSQ3N Yeah, that sounds like a no-brainer to me!
hey i was wondering are you going to do a review on the newish logitech g923?
It's the same wheel
Overengineering 101
This thing just have all kinds of problems. Starting with the price.
A lot more build and a lot less talk would be nice.
Overpriced piece of junk!