Electric Emergency Brake Conversion for ~ $100. Parking brake touch button for classic Ford Mustang
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video we set out to convert and install electric emergency brakes to this 1967 Mustang with S197 rear disc brakes. The rear brake brackets are from Mustang Steve.
Here is the list of items I used (optionally the e brake cable kit I used as well
Controller: amzn.to/3xSTkhc
Controller Box: amzn.to/3Yftwqv
2inch Actuators (I used 2): amzn.to/3WiCuSp
Push Button (x2): amzn.to/3zuoonO
Optional
Wire: amzn.to/4cvOXaQ
Emergency Brake Cable Kit: amzn.to/3VXTZGf
This 1967 Ford Mustang has had quite the transformation. It started its life as a coupe and was converted to a fastback. I have full videos on the coupe to fastback conversion. The modifications continue on this Restomod. Next steps are drivetrain and EFI add-on installations. Stay tuned for more.
This mod could apply to a slew of Restomod trucks and cars. Anywhere you can fit the actuators is a potential game-changer situation to create room for custom exhaust or sub-frame connectors or suspension components.
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Pretty nice setup. I wish I would have known before I bought the E-Stop kit for my 67.
You’re going to put Wilwood out of business. Great project.
Hope not!
Thanks man!
What an awesome mod. Thank you for sharing!
For the cables fraying where you cut them, you can use a propane torch and silver solder them. Just watch the heat carefully so the heat up the cable doesn't melt the inner sleeve on the sheath.
Love this! That’s greatness. Thanks
Nice! This is going on my 66 Mustang.
If you have a tig welder, you can melt the cable and it will fuse the strands together. Just like a lighter on a poly rope.
Copy that! Perf! Thanks
Woah! Fire!🔥🔥my goat 🎉
Nice setup, simple and cheap, just my style. It’s more of a parking brake than emergency brake. Engaging while driving will likely cause lock up and result in a skid. I lost all brakes in a modern vehicle a few years ago in traffic. The e-brake handle allowed me to stop without skidding, otherwise I would have plowed into stopped cars. I know a lot of modern vehicles have went to an electric parking brake but I don’t think I could have found the little button quick enough to avoid a collision in my situation. The chances of losing all brakes with a split reservoir master cylinder is slim but it does happen. Not sure what manufacturers are thinking with electric parking brakes. If using a system like this, an easily accessible potentiometer that would allow gradual braking pressure would be good. Might need a different controller that can accepts a potentiometer. Maybe install a potentiometer on the brake pedal and when the parking braking switch is activated, application of the brake pedal would modulate how hard the actuator pulls the cable. Installing an electric brake on a vehicle with a single pot master isn’t a good idea as the electric brake is the redundant system and it will lock up the wheel is applied at full force. Not saying anybody shouldn’t install these but it’s something to think about. I have SN95 mustang rear brakes on my 65 that I adapted to the factory emergency brake cable. If I had no other choice, I would use an electric system. With a 4 speed, gotta have a good parking brake.
Think i'd of drilled and tapped 2 holes in the actuator piston for grub screws rather than use the clamp.
Great idea!
Learning how to use microcontrollers to upgrade or improve systems and subsystems on older cars IS cool AF to do!
For practicality and safety reasons, I'd probably opt to "upgrade" from foot-operated parking brake, to a hand-operated e-brake lever between the seats. This way you get more control over the car, and controlled stops in an emergency if your brakes go out. The e-E-brake is full on or full off only for parking. Is it possible to add a 2nd manual control like a rheostat (potentiometer?) on a lever for times you need to gradually apply emergency brakes? Could one also add automation? Like key-off with a manual shifter gated in a specific gear (switch or sensor) condition automatically engages the parking brake so it's not accidentally overlooked? Key-on in neutral would disengage the brake automatically if it's currently engaged...etc.
This is a great idea! There is a GPS potentiometer that might do the trick automatically adjusting the level of amperage the actuators apply based on speed. Already use this for my electric assist system under the dash.
Thanks for bringing this up.
Finally a video
This is slick but... something I believe that isn't addressed. The E-brake solenoids need to be isolated to work while the transmission is in neutral or park. If the driver or passenger, hits the button while the vehicle is in gear, bad things may happen.
Ah yes! This is great feedback. So perhaps the into neutral safety switch for key on?
Or another idea is I have a GPS potentiometer…I could tie into that. It reduces amperage based on speed. That still may not address what you’re talking about with the vehicle in gear though.
Great video!!! Thank you for sharing! Beautiful car!!! Do you think you could have done job with one actuator?
Possibly! With just one wheel. I don’t see them pulling both cables though. Open to try something if you have an idea -plz share.
@@FollowTheBuilds Sorry no idea. Just curious, I saw a guy in Europe install the same system you did but he used one actuator, but it was pretty large. I’m sure due to the weight of his vehicle. Your mustang is isn’t very heavy plus where you installed them they are out of way of the exhaust system. I’m wanting to use the same system you did, but I have a 68 gto that I ls swapped and reinforced the chassis so I’m sure I’m around 800 pound heavy then you mustang plus I have room to put the 1 or 2 actuator’s about anywhere I want.
Do you know if the actuator’s have a rating on holding force or torque rating?
Thank you for videos you post on converting coupes to fastback some good stuff!!!!
I have a 68 and am looking for E-e brake options, great work! I would have to change it up slightly as it looks where you put the actuators is where the sub-frame connectors are on the frame. I'm assuming that the actuators stay in the activated position when the key is off, but needs key on to move?? What is the rear brake set up and what rear is that? I have an 8.8 from an explorer.
Perhaps you could tie into the subframe connectors as there likely added strength there?
No residual draw when key off. Needs key on to loosen.
9inch rear with Mustang Steve conversion brackets to s197 brakes
Or I running them into the trunk area with a few bracket and reinforcement mods there
Did you use 2 inch acuators?
Yes 👍.
Grüße aus Hamburg 😊