Parts: ATS Brembo Caliper (Driver): amzn.to/3ad5m96 ATS Brembo Caliper (Passenger): amzn.to/38vsBuj Pads I used: amzn.to/3GwECw8 Rotor:amzn.to/3Rii1sO Braided Hoses W/banjo bolts 99-04: amzn.to/3ytaDpo Paint: amzn.to/3N3CI8D Brembo Decals: amzn.to/3t2myok Banjo Bolt: amzn.to/3lUoHhI Rear: 43mm Taurus Caliper (driver): amzn.to/3NNPiJn 43mm Taurus Caliper (Passenger): amzn.to/3lX2JLe 11.65" Cobra Disc Upgrade: amzn.to/3oMbvNl ---------The Taurus caliper will bolt right into any 94-04 Mustang caliper bracket. The 11.65" Cobra rear disc provides the ideal brake bias but, you can bolt the Taurus caliper onto a stock 10 disc and bracket as well and receive a slight improvement in brake bias for the ATS fronts. Send S&S an email for a quote on the adapters. They do everything though paypal. They are pretty responsive to messages and their product works great. No issues at all. S&S Engineering: Ssengineeringllc@gmail.com S&S Engineering FB: facebook.com/SSEngineerin... My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
1998 Mustang GT . I bought the Taurus calipers.. I want to install the cobra rear rotors...(Bigger). Do I need the cobra brackets as well? will the cobra rotor fit inside the Taurus calipers.. and will the Taurus calipers be a straight bolt on the cobra brackets if needed?
this was super helpful. i was gonna spend about 1,400 on a big brake kit but this seems to be a way better option for me with limited track time. thank you for this video!!
Excellent stuff - thanks for the heads up on the S&S kit. I sourced my ATS calipers from marketplace for $200 and I pulled a set of '43' rear calipers from a Taurus at the local yard for less than $40. Looking forward to seeing how this works on my 2004 GT.
@RepairGeek the rear caliper brackets in your video are 99-04 Cobra brackets. Just wanted to clarify for others that the v6-GT caliper bracket is narrower (v6-GT rotors arent vented) and they are slightly shorter and wont work with the 11-5/8" rotor. I found this out the hard way doing the brake swap.
I kinda wish you touched on the potential need for the MC to be replaced to one that uses bigger lines to accommodate the braking pressure which would be needed to efficiently use the new brakes. Been on the forums all day looking at that very issue since my 94 uses 11/16 lines and would need to be upgraded to 1" or 1.1" lines and MC found on the 99-04 Cobra/GT models. The 79-95 GT/v6/Cobra all use smaller lines and a different brake assisted boost system and depending on what year a person owns those variables also can change. I guess at the least this comment addresses it. So you folks at home DO YOUR HOMEWORK before you try this mod that said it is pretty easy to do and very worth it.
I'm really enjoying your videos. Your car seems to be getting setup very similar to mine, with like goals. Although, I am not nearly as far along as you. Stock 94 GT 5-speed convertible, "budget grand tourer". Just welded in the stiffler's fit system last night, and picked up BOSS 302 Brembos for $120 locally. Bought a slightly used set of high performance summer tires too. 14in rotors on the way, along with solid steering rack bushings. Eibach front and rear swaybars showed up yesterday too. I share this car with my parents ( both 60 years old) and live in WV, surrounded by great driving roads. I have to walk a fine line between making performance modifications...and not doing anything to upset my wife and my parents experience. lol Your car seems to be setup in a way that would be the solution for what I'm looking for....while keeping it pleasant for them as well.
Well done. I recommend this upgrade not just for the increased braking performance, but to eliminate the front PBR Cobra caliper which has a very poor brake pad anti-rattle design. Only the bottom of the pads use an anti-rattle clip, while the top of the pad has no clip but rather the pad just rides in the caliper bracket slot. Brake grease in those slots and plenty of tension on the lower anti-rattle clips (LRS-2296A) will keep the pads from rattling for about 6 months, then, you will need to regrease and bend out the anti-rattle clips to maintain tension on the pads and keep them from rattling. I have had front and rear Cobra brakes (rear M-2330-M) on my daily driver 2001 Mustang GT for 10 years, so trust me on this one. I will say that braking performance with front and rear Cobra brakes on a new edge GT is exceptional for a daily driver, however the front caliper pad rattling will drive you nuts, especially if you own a convertible, which I do. Also of note and in favor of this Brembo upgrade is the fact that the 2003-2004 Cobra and Mach I calipers are really for 12” rotors which is why so much rotor is not touched by the pad on a Cobra 13.1” rotor. If any Ford owners know how to permanently get the rattling out of the stock PBR calipers, please let me know or I am going to perform this mod for my daily driver just to eliminate the PBR death rattle.
@@RepairGeek Yes, the pins are installed on the rear (bottom) of the pads where the clips are. Its not possible to install them on the front (top) of the pads by mistake and although there is a hole in the pad, its not for the pin. The pin would not fit through the hole and the rotor is right behind the pin anyway. Really not sure what the hole is in the top of the pad. As you know, the pin passes through a radius on the bottom of the pad mated to a similar radius on the caliper bracket. I wonder if its possible that the caliper mounting bracket is slightly worn out at the top (where there are no clips) allowing the pad to clang around in the slot? I have even tried stock Cobra motorcraft pads and they rattled around too. Very annoying. Anyway, thanks for thinking about it. No need to dwell on it. One day I will get pissed off at the rattling every 6 months and perform your upgrade. Congrats on the nuptials.
If the brackets and pads get flipped driver to passenger and vice versa you can install them with the pins on the top. That will cause pad knock when you apply the brakes and the pad slams forward against the pin. I've done it haha. So far I have no regrets with the ATS setup. Thanks for watching!
Rear Cobra brakes use a 11.65in. and are vented which is worth the cost of that upgrade. That said with the stock brakes with the Taurus caliper upgrade I'd still gut the stock proportioning valve with the kit from Maximum Motorsports and add an adjustable proportioning valve. Wilwood has a valve that bolts right in place of the union in the line on the right side of the engine compartment on the firewall.
Great video and how to save money without paying that Brembo price if you were to order it exactly for that car , 👍, You didn't mention it but that set up will definitely stay cooler under heavy breaking & less brake fade , I recently did a drum to disc conversion on my 1994 F350 and it also used a Cadillac caliper, Idk if Brembo was making the calipers or not ,So if anyone is doing that conversion look up( Graveyard Broncos ) for the complete kit & save money, Some welding needed for the brakets to the axle tube.
Haven’t seen you before on TH-cam but after watching this video I’m subscribing. I liked how you explained everything and went into detail and added the part numbers with list of everything needed. I have a 86 Foxbody with these ATS calipers. 306 Turbo, aluminum heads and on and on Also have a 01 Cobra but currently working on the Fox. Cobra has been sitting I’ll probably sale it I don’t drive it but anyways good video bud.
I’ve had this set up on my car for years now, you can use 11-14 none Brembo mustang rotors which are bigger then the cobra 13” rotors to have more pad contact on rotor (Cobra rotors are smaller causing some of the brake pad to not ware evenly) and avoid having to use the spacer s&s requires on the inside of the rotor for 13” cobra rotors
Damn! And I thought I was doing good putting CTSv 4 pistons all around on my 2004 GTO for $2200… This is a bargain even though it is only a front kit. I’ve been contemplating buying a 99-04 5 speed New Edge for a daily driver, so consequently, I have been looking at modifications for it. Brakes, suspension and wheels and tires would be at the top of my list.
Isn't going to provide much stopping power over the factory cobra setup. First, it's the same diameter rotor so leverage is not increased over stock. About the only two benefits you get are larger pad surface area (a meager increase in brake torque) and higher thermal capacity and more even pad wear with 4 pistons versus 2 from stock. If you really want a big stopper, get a kit with a 14" or even a 15" rotor, though different wheels are usually required for this.
Well, I'm using the entire face of the rotor, which cobra's didn't. The pistons are larger than any factory cobra (38mm or 40mm depending on the year). So this setup has more clamping power because of the 42mm pistons and also has better pedal feel at high braking forces because there is far less deflection in the caliper at high clamping loads. There are also 2 sides to thermal capacity. A larger rotor at 14 or 15" has more mass (weight) and would take longer to heat up but, nobody ever mentions that a larger rotor also takes longer to cool down. This car is nearly 1000 lbs lighter than a S550 GT500. You don't need a 15" rotor if the car isn't morbidly obese to start with...
Really well done video! Thanks for explaining why the need for Taurus rears and giving all the piston diameters. Very comprehensive and very much appreciated! I’m looking into piecing this together right now and previously had my eyes on the Ford Racing kit. I’m running 18” AFS Mach 1 wheel on my 03 and would very much like to keep them so hopefully they give me enough clearance over the stock 17”? Worst case I’m using a wheel spacer and ARP studs I guess?
Another Ponder, after buying parts-for the Rear brakes. Bought the Taurus L and R calipers-which are a direct fit to the stock mustang calipers. However to run the Rear Cobra R style rotors, you need a new axle housing to caliper mounting bracket. And the Cobra R Caliper mounting bracket-which seems generic, right or left??
Super helpful video (like all of your videos), thanks for the details and tips to ensure that this particular upgrade produces the best possible results! Is it possible to adjust the rear braking bias (if using the 38mm rear GT/COBRA calipers) back to 30% using an adjustable proportioning valve (passenger side firewall unit) when upgrading to the ATS Brembo calipers in a Fox chassis 79-93 application? Does the 43mm Taurus rear caliper upgrade apply to 94+ Mustangs or 99+ Mustangs only or all Mustangs from 79-04? Surprising that no one else talks about the brake bias change with the larger pistons in the ATS Brembo calipers. I purchased the S&S engineering adapters, great folks to work with! I'll have some actual track testing/experience that I can share once I get the setup installed in my '88 LX 5.0 and on the track next summer. I'm currently running the 13" "COBRA" rotors with MACH 1 calipers (same as the COBRA calipers), '93 COBRA booster, and 1" 93 COBRA master cylinder. Looking forward to trying out the change on the track. May try Hawk HPS pads instead of the ceramic pads though or may try out both since they are so easy to change with this setup.
Nice job. I do have a question. You mentioned gain in pedal travel due to larger calipers. i don't see how that would be correct as Hydraulic fluid does not compress. Unless you have air in the lines. One thing that comes to mind is the stock master is in the car type to move a lot more fluid. You master acts as a pump and you are now trying to move a lot more piston diameter. That would be why your pedal got softer. I think upgrading the master to something with a larger piston diameter would help with the extra pedal travel.
You're correct. The issue is this car already has a 1 1/16th master. That was the biggest master Ford ever offered for these cars. Swapping to a different master is not easy either because this car has hydroboost. Baer makes a kit for a 1 1/8 on a hydroboost car but it's over $450 the last time I checked. It's not worth spending that kind of money on. It has some travel before it grabs and the pedal is nice and firm. I still have no issue locking up the front wheels. Just as more travel before the brakes engage than a PBR setup.
I think you need to upgrade your master cylinder to improve your pedal feel. I know the fox cobra upgrade kit came with booster and master to correct for the upgraded brakes front and back. I started with the original cobra upgrade on my fox station wagon, now I've upgraded to the cobra r brembos and the taurus calipers will be the final piece. If it turns out that the ats brakes provide significantly more stopping power then I may try them. The internal crossover may be a concern because the force used to clamp the rotor is also trying to separate the two caliper halves. Great video. Nice job!
Great video! I am adding this setup to my '85 GT and Cobra rear disc for strictly endurance racing use. Since Repair Geek indicates the bias is similar to stock, does anyone know whether the stock brake distribution block on the '85 Mustang will work ok with this upgraded brake setup? I recognize that I will need to install a '87-93 GT booster and a 1 1/16" MC.
Technically all you have to do is drill out the spindle to a 14.3mm opening and it all bolts up without the kit. You will have to either machine the contact area to spindle 2mm or space the rotor out 2mm for perfect Fitment.
You can. It also turns a $200 spindle into a paper weight unless you run this caliper. Also, these bushings drop the caliper down onto the rotor further as well. Again you could accomplish the same thing slotting out the holes correctly but you really don't want a brake caliper bolting into a slotted hole.
could i use the 43mm rear caliper with the Lincoln 73mm front caliper? 5 lug conversion no sn95 spindles. but using 93 cobra booster and and matching mc.
Thank you bro!! Amazing breakdown video! Think this is def the direction Im gonna go with my sn95 now. One thing I'm thinking, and will have to do a little research on, you mentioned softer pedal feel, gotta be a master cylinder upgrade out there that would probably help with that🤔
Not for a 96+ hydroboost car. The stock 96+ master is 1 1/16th. Some of the older superduty stuff had a 1 1/8 but they used a different mounting flange for the master and a larger booster that doesn't fit.
Great video, thank you!. Do you know if the 17" 10th anniversary wheels will fit with these calibers? Also for 03 cobra, the rear caliper is different than GT do I still have to replace it with Taurus? Not sure the cobra rear caliber piston size tho.
Something to Ponder with the ATS Caddy Caliper is the ability to switch the bleed screws to either end. Does that mean you do not need a right and left Caliper?
Just an fyi for anyone that needs it, test fit before paint. Also this setup does not work with 03-04 cobra factory wheels without a huge spacer. I am going to grind down the face of the caliper a little to hopefully clear.
Hi, just wanted to make sure, so the rotor listed in the description will fit in the front with the ats calipers correct? I am looking into doing this and want to make sure it will fit. Also, maybe stupid question but do you need brake pads for the tarus calipers in the rear?
Wait so we need the 11.5" rear cobra rotors with the Taurus calipers in the rear? Just want to double check before I pull the trigger on the rears. I already have the brembos up front and need to fix the variance
The taurus calipers will help the rear bias even on a 10 inch rotor. You dont need the 11.65 rotor to install the taurus caliper. It will bolt up fine. The 11.65 rear w/taurus calipers is virtually stock as far as bias using ATS fronts.
Struggling to find these rotors. Do you have a part number for the set you installed? Link in the description brings me to a different set on Amazon. Appreciate all the details in your content. Thank you.
They aren't worth the coin. This price is for 1 rotor.. I paid $250 for the pair. Here's a link:www.cspracing.com/dba-dba5069gldxs-94-04-mustang-cobra-bullitt-mach1-front-drilled-slotted-5000-series-2-piece-rotor-assembled-w/dba5069gldxs/
I contacted Russell for braided brake lines and I’m confused. Their first email response to me merely said to check their catalog and answered none of my questions. I followed up earlier today stating that they do not have a listing for 03/04 Mach 1s and asked if there was a part number not shown in their catalog. I also asked if their lines would fit/work with ATS calipers….they said I’ll have to build my own set! 😫 I have an 03 Mach with traction control, would the part number you used work for me?
With the Rear Taurus Calipers, do you need to install the 11.65 rotor conversion bracket still, or can you put these calipers on with a cobra rear rotor? I am not wanting to pull the rear axles out....again.
Did this make the brake pedal any deeper, as in you have to push the pedal down further than before the upgrade? Increasing slave piston area will require more fluid. Did you replace he master with a larger one?
Would the ATS brembo’s clear 17x9 wheels? I have the oem Tri-bars on my 95 GT but I’ll be switching them over for Cobra R wheels soon. Regardless both would be 17x9
Love it did it , I noticed a softer brake pedal , which I figured would be the case with more pistons up front . Would it be wise to upgrade brake booster ? Or just run it ?
Out of curiosity would it be possible to use this brake setup designed on a Mustang on a 2000 Ford Ranger with stock front and 8.8 Explorer disc brake rear end?
I want to upgrade my 06 mustang brakes ( rotors/calipers/pads) I would so appreciate any recommendation! You know your stuff brother. I was looking at the z23 but not real impressed unless you think differently?
How’s the brake pedal feel and initial bite? Does it make a huge difference or just marginal/compromise besides getting the willwood or bear breaks? I’d rather by once cry once hahaha 😭
It had enough brake power to compelety overwhelm a set of 275 Nitto 555's in a panic stop. I've since upgraded to Michelin PS4S's they have much more grip than the nittos.
Killer video, you answered some questions I've had about this swap and one or two I hadn't worried about finding the answers to yet. I really appreciate the level of detail here. I do have 3 questions: First, is the rotor spacer really necessary? If we moved the caliper back from the spindle by using spacers on the caliper mounting the same thickness as the rotor spacer, wouldn't that have the same effect and also give a slight extra bit of wheel clearance? Second, have you given any thought to changing out the master cylinder to one with a bigger bore to get the pedal feel back to stock? I was thinking maybe the Cobra R master if it had a bigger bore would be a good first step but I haven't looked at the numbers yet. Third, could you keep the brake bias similar to stock by switching out to a larger rear rotor with something like the FTBR kit instead of swapping to a larger piston caliper? That might swing the brake bias too much in the other direction but might help with pedal feel as you wouldn't be increase the rear piston diameter.
1) Putting washers behind the caliper would make the issue of centering the rotor worse. Without a rotor spacer the rotor is closer to the inboard pistons than the outboard pistons. Shimming the caliper with washers would push the caliper more towards the outside of the car and make the issue worse. The caliper needs to be closer inboard to not need the rotor spacer. Machining down the ears on the caliper would do this but, then you need to make sure the caliper is perfectly perpendicular to the rotor. This isn't easy to do precisely without a milling machine. @ 6:37 gives the best visual on this. 2) This car already has a 1 1/16th bore master cylinder on it. That's as large as they get for one of these mustangs because this car has hydroboost. To keep my booster that's as large of a master as I can run. Some super duty trucks has a 1 1/8th master and a hydroboost but the mounting flange for the master is different and won't work. So 1 1/16th is as large as you can go as far as I'm aware. 3) This one I'm not sure to be completely honest with you. The FTBR kit that I saw was over $800 to put a 13 inch rotor on the back of one of these cars. There may be a cheaper option but I didn't see it on their website. Someone is going to have to run the #'s to see what that bias would be on that setup. Adding nearly 1.5" of rotor will help with brake torque but without hard #'s on bias I would have a hard time telling people to go that route. Yes it would help with pedal feel but, $800 is a steep price to pay for some rear rotors and a caliper bracket. The 11.65" Ford racing kit is half that cost. Also you're stuck buying replacement rotors from FTBR with their kit. What I spoke of in this video you can buy replacement parts at any auto parts store as long as you are willing to press bushings out of the front calipers and transfer them.
@@RepairGeek You nailed it on #1, I wasn't visualizing it properly in my head when I was thinking about it. #2 I've been seeing conflicting info on the MC bore sizes. I see 1" or 1 1/16" the SN95 MC bore sizes depending on where I look, all the parts catalogues list 1", where did you get the 1 1/16" bore MC or is that the stock unit? Baer makes a nice aftermarket 1 1/8" MC for the SN95, but it is 450 bucks or so which doesn't help keep the cost down. #3 I hadn't looked at pricing on that FTBR kit in a LONG time and it has gone up quite a bit so I think swapping the calipers over to the larger piston makes sense here.
I want to say all the 96+ V8 cars had a 1 1/16th master. I know mine does. Guys with a 1" MC run out of travel with this setup. I looked at that Baer unit. It's intriguing but at $435 it's a bit too much $ to gamble. What I have isn't bad at all.
@@RepairGeek Thanks for the info and the conversation. If I find a good factory part that has a 1 1/8" bore I'll try to remember to come back here an post it up.
Not hydra boost but the svo has an 1”1/8 thinking about doing this swap since all the brakes are gummed up on this 27 year garage piece of my dads. Thanks for all the info!
So just to clarify, if I were to use the ATS calipers in tandem with the Taurus calipers, and a 1 1/16 master cylinder, I would NOT have to use an adjustable prop valve as i would retain the “stock” bias with the Taurus calipers ? Or would I still need an adjustable prop valve? Have a foxbody btw but considering this setup
Considering those were rear drum originally I'm not sure to be perfectly honest with you. If it was me I would bolt this setup on, drive it a litte and see how it behaves. If the rears lock before the fronts install the proportioning valve. You will need the 1 1/16" master for sure.
@@RepairGeek yeah I ordered a stock 87-93 booster to pair with a 94-95 gt master. Since I have a 1980, I can’t fit any booster bigger than the stock gt without beating the hell out of my strut tower which I refuse to do. 😂
I've been seing mention of a slightly larger rotor, 13.1 or .2 i think? Is there a Mustang/Cobra rotor that will center and face the full pad so there is no material on the outside creating a lip? And also you rotor link goes to a 14" rotor. Seems incorrect. Also, the Banjo bolts link looks nasty. No copper bushings and looks like cast garb. any link to a better banjo bolt? Can you use the stock Cobra brake hoses with a new Banjo?
I have a lip at the top probably around 1/8th of an inch on the pad. I've ran this setup on a 6000 mile cross country drive and a track day at the halfway point of that trip. This setup works great. As far as the rotor I have linked, that is a 94-04 13" rotor. The dimensions listed on the amazon page are for the size of the rotor's box, not the rotor itself. Banjo bolt information: 9:56
Awesome video. I read the s&s bushings can also be used for the XTS calipers and run 14” rotors. I am building a fox with coyote supercharged. I want stopping power but moving up to 14” could create a rear caliper problem. Do you know which rear caliper would work to keep the bias as intended ?
Can't you simply adjust your proportioning valve to adjust front to rear bias? That seems to be the easier step vs having to change calipers in the rear too.
@@RepairGeek don't see how it's an engineering "problem" if you literally have control over setting the desired bias. Assuming you're not drastically out of balance and the rears being terribly undersized, dialing it in is essentially the completion of the engineering process.
so is there a rotor I can use if i need to use the stock gt sized rotors . Id love to go to a vented rotor, but I cant fit that behind my rear drag wheel?
Hello, I've ordered the parts for the front, but do you know what is needed to be able to mount to the Taurus rear calipers onto a Foxbody (91) rear end? Great video, thanks for making it!
I have a '00 v6 new edge I'm building as a drift car. I was wondering if you might know whether or not the taurus rear calipers would work with the dual caliper brackets for a drift set-up? I assume the dual caliper bracket is meant for the stock GT brake calipers, and I plan on upgrading the brakes all around when I go to dual caliper, but until I saw this video I was gonna go with GT brakes. But if the Taurus rear calipers will also work, then I'll go with them and the ATS fronts.
Do you know which are the rear sets of pads using the Taurus caliper and cobra sized rear rotors? I got the power stop evolution plus for the front, and wanted to get some similar ones for the rear, let me know 🙌
The pistons are bigger. It takes more volume to fill them. You could put in a larger master but it's not necessary. The old PBR/Cobra calipers had very little travel in the pedal. This setup feels very normal, easy to modulate but panic stops lock up the wheels easier.
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Parts:
ATS Brembo Caliper (Driver): amzn.to/3ad5m96
ATS Brembo Caliper (Passenger): amzn.to/38vsBuj
Pads I used: amzn.to/3GwECw8
Rotor:amzn.to/3Rii1sO
Braided Hoses W/banjo bolts 99-04: amzn.to/3ytaDpo
Paint: amzn.to/3N3CI8D
Brembo Decals: amzn.to/3t2myok
Banjo Bolt: amzn.to/3lUoHhI
Rear:
43mm Taurus Caliper (driver): amzn.to/3NNPiJn
43mm Taurus Caliper (Passenger): amzn.to/3lX2JLe
11.65" Cobra Disc Upgrade: amzn.to/3oMbvNl
---------The Taurus caliper will bolt right into any 94-04 Mustang caliper bracket. The 11.65" Cobra rear disc provides the ideal brake bias but, you can bolt the Taurus caliper onto a stock 10 disc and bracket as well and receive a slight improvement in brake bias for the ATS fronts.
Send S&S an email for a quote on the adapters. They do everything though paypal. They are pretty responsive to messages and their product works great. No issues at all.
S&S Engineering: Ssengineeringllc@gmail.com
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1998 Mustang GT . I bought the Taurus calipers.. I want to install the cobra rear rotors...(Bigger). Do I need the cobra brackets as well? will the cobra rotor fit inside the Taurus calipers.. and will the Taurus calipers be a straight bolt on the cobra brackets if needed?
@@luisvaldez6204 yes you do since they are wider to accommodate the bigger vented rear rotors.
Whats the link for those rotors
Will this setup fit with 19x8.5
Man this video was so perfectly done everything was so clearly presented
this was super helpful. i was gonna spend about 1,400 on a big brake kit but this seems to be a way better option for me with limited track time. thank you for this video!!
I’ve watched a few others on this swap after watching yours. You do a great job explaining everything. Thank you for the help.
Excellent stuff - thanks for the heads up on the S&S kit. I sourced my ATS calipers from marketplace for $200 and I pulled a set of '43' rear calipers from a Taurus at the local yard for less than $40. Looking forward to seeing how this works on my 2004 GT.
@RepairGeek the rear caliper brackets in your video are 99-04 Cobra brackets. Just wanted to clarify for others that the v6-GT caliper bracket is narrower (v6-GT rotors arent vented) and they are slightly shorter and wont work with the 11-5/8" rotor. I found this out the hard way doing the brake swap.
Bro made this video so simple and easy to understand. Thank you so much.
I kinda wish you touched on the potential need for the MC to be replaced to one that uses bigger lines to accommodate the braking pressure which would be needed to efficiently use the new brakes. Been on the forums all day looking at that very issue since my 94 uses 11/16 lines and would need to be upgraded to 1" or 1.1" lines and MC found on the 99-04 Cobra/GT models. The 79-95 GT/v6/Cobra all use smaller lines and a different brake assisted boost system and depending on what year a person owns those variables also can change. I guess at the least this comment addresses it. So you folks at home DO YOUR HOMEWORK before you try this mod that said it is pretty easy to do and very worth it.
I'm really enjoying your videos.
Your car seems to be getting setup very similar to mine, with like goals. Although, I am not nearly as far along as you.
Stock 94 GT 5-speed convertible, "budget grand tourer". Just welded in the stiffler's fit system last night, and picked up BOSS 302 Brembos for $120 locally. Bought a slightly used set of high performance summer tires too. 14in rotors on the way, along with solid steering rack bushings. Eibach front and rear swaybars showed up yesterday too.
I share this car with my parents ( both 60 years old) and live in WV, surrounded by great driving roads. I have to walk a fine line between making performance modifications...and not doing anything to upset my wife and my parents experience. lol
Your car seems to be setup in a way that would be the solution for what I'm looking for....while keeping it pleasant for them as well.
I'm gonna put this kit on my supra. Thank you for the crisp and clean video
Great info and glad you mentioned the Taurus calipers
This popped up in my feed, now I'm tempted to do this to my foxbody instead of the 03 Cobra brake upgrade.
Well done. I recommend this upgrade not just for the increased braking performance, but to eliminate the front PBR Cobra caliper which has a very poor brake pad anti-rattle design. Only the bottom of the pads use an anti-rattle clip, while the top of the pad has no clip but rather the pad just rides in the caliper bracket slot. Brake grease in those slots and plenty of tension on the lower anti-rattle clips (LRS-2296A) will keep the pads from rattling for about 6 months, then, you will need to regrease and bend out the anti-rattle clips to maintain tension on the pads and keep them from rattling. I have had front and rear Cobra brakes (rear M-2330-M) on my daily driver 2001 Mustang GT for 10 years, so trust me on this one. I will say that braking performance with front and rear Cobra brakes on a new edge GT is exceptional for a daily driver, however the front caliper pad rattling will drive you nuts, especially if you own a convertible, which I do. Also of note and in favor of this Brembo upgrade is the fact that the 2003-2004 Cobra and Mach I calipers are really for 12” rotors which is why so much rotor is not touched by the pad on a Cobra 13.1” rotor. If any Ford owners know how to permanently get the rattling out of the stock PBR calipers, please let me know or I am going to perform this mod for my daily driver just to eliminate the PBR death rattle.
Never had an issue with my PBR's rattling. Your retaining pins are installed at the rear of the caliper correct?
@@RepairGeek Yes, the pins are installed on the rear (bottom) of the pads where the clips are. Its not possible to install them on the front (top) of the pads by mistake and although there is a hole in the pad, its not for the pin. The pin would not fit through the hole and the rotor is right behind the pin anyway. Really not sure what the hole is in the top of the pad. As you know, the pin passes through a radius on the bottom of the pad mated to a similar radius on the caliper bracket. I wonder if its possible that the caliper mounting bracket is slightly worn out at the top (where there are no clips) allowing the pad to clang around in the slot? I have even tried stock Cobra motorcraft pads and they rattled around too. Very annoying. Anyway, thanks for thinking about it. No need to dwell on it. One day I will get pissed off at the rattling every 6 months and perform your upgrade. Congrats on the nuptials.
If the brackets and pads get flipped driver to passenger and vice versa you can install them with the pins on the top. That will cause pad knock when you apply the brakes and the pad slams forward against the pin. I've done it haha. So far I have no regrets with the ATS setup. Thanks for watching!
Rear Cobra brakes use a 11.65in. and are vented which is worth the cost of that upgrade. That said with the stock brakes with the Taurus caliper upgrade I'd still gut the stock proportioning valve with the kit from Maximum Motorsports and add an adjustable proportioning valve. Wilwood has a valve that bolts right in place of the union in the line on the right side of the engine compartment on the firewall.
Great video and how to save money without paying that Brembo price if you were to order it exactly for that car , 👍, You didn't mention it but that set up will definitely stay cooler under heavy breaking & less brake fade , I recently did a drum to disc conversion on my 1994 F350 and it also used a Cadillac caliper, Idk if Brembo was making the calipers or not ,So if anyone is doing that conversion look up( Graveyard Broncos ) for the complete kit & save money, Some welding needed for the brakets to the axle tube.
Haven’t seen you before on TH-cam but after watching this video I’m subscribing. I liked how you explained everything and went into detail and added the part numbers with list of everything needed.
I have a 86 Foxbody with these ATS calipers. 306 Turbo, aluminum heads and on and on
Also have a 01 Cobra but currently working on the Fox. Cobra has been sitting I’ll probably sale it I don’t drive it but anyways good video bud.
I’ve had this set up on my car for years now, you can use 11-14 none Brembo mustang rotors which are bigger then the cobra 13” rotors to have more pad contact on rotor (Cobra rotors are smaller causing some of the brake pad to not ware evenly) and avoid having to use the spacer s&s requires on the inside of the rotor for 13” cobra rotors
How much did it cost and where can I get the parts. Want to get brakes but 1500 is to steep for me
Thanks, Caesar! You saved me even more time and money. Knowledge is power.
I'm not sure if you've seen, but Lincoln Mark VII rear brakes are absolutely huge as well. That might be another cheap rear brake upgrade.
You convinced me to do this to my 00 Mustang
Same
Damn! And I thought I was doing good putting CTSv 4 pistons all around on my 2004 GTO for $2200… This is a bargain even though it is only a front kit. I’ve been contemplating buying a 99-04 5 speed New Edge for a daily driver, so consequently, I have been looking at modifications for it. Brakes, suspension and wheels and tires would be at the top of my list.
Isn't going to provide much stopping power over the factory cobra setup. First, it's the same diameter rotor so leverage is not increased over stock. About the only two benefits you get are larger pad surface area (a meager increase in brake torque) and higher thermal capacity and more even pad wear with 4 pistons versus 2 from stock. If you really want a big stopper, get a kit with a 14" or even a 15" rotor, though different wheels are usually required for this.
Well, I'm using the entire face of the rotor, which cobra's didn't. The pistons are larger than any factory cobra (38mm or 40mm depending on the year). So this setup has more clamping power because of the 42mm pistons and also has better pedal feel at high braking forces because there is far less deflection in the caliper at high clamping loads. There are also 2 sides to thermal capacity. A larger rotor at 14 or 15" has more mass (weight) and would take longer to heat up but, nobody ever mentions that a larger rotor also takes longer to cool down. This car is nearly 1000 lbs lighter than a S550 GT500. You don't need a 15" rotor if the car isn't morbidly obese to start with...
Really well done video! Thanks for explaining why the need for Taurus rears and giving all the piston diameters. Very comprehensive and very much appreciated!
I’m looking into piecing this together right now and previously had my eyes on the Ford Racing kit.
I’m running 18” AFS Mach 1 wheel on my 03 and would very much like to keep them so hopefully they give me enough clearance over the stock 17”? Worst case I’m using a wheel spacer and ARP studs I guess?
Mach 1 wheel is going to need a spacer.
Have mine off in powdercoating and found out Powerstop sells the Taurus calipers powdercoated!
This video was super detailed and helpful. Looking to give this a try in the future!
Another Ponder, after buying parts-for the Rear brakes. Bought the Taurus L and R calipers-which are a direct fit to the stock mustang calipers. However to run the Rear Cobra R style rotors, you need a new axle housing to caliper mounting bracket. And the Cobra R Caliper mounting bracket-which seems generic, right or left??
Super helpful video (like all of your videos), thanks for the details and tips to ensure that this particular upgrade produces the best possible results! Is it possible to adjust the rear braking bias (if using the 38mm rear GT/COBRA calipers) back to 30% using an adjustable proportioning valve (passenger side firewall unit) when upgrading to the ATS Brembo calipers in a Fox chassis 79-93 application? Does the 43mm Taurus rear caliper upgrade apply to 94+ Mustangs or 99+ Mustangs only or all Mustangs from 79-04? Surprising that no one else talks about the brake bias change with the larger pistons in the ATS Brembo calipers.
I purchased the S&S engineering adapters, great folks to work with!
I'll have some actual track testing/experience that I can share once I get the setup installed in my '88 LX 5.0 and on the track next summer. I'm currently running the 13" "COBRA" rotors with MACH 1 calipers (same as the COBRA calipers), '93 COBRA booster, and 1" 93 COBRA master cylinder. Looking forward to trying out the change on the track. May try Hawk HPS pads instead of the ceramic pads though or may try out both since they are so easy to change with this setup.
Dude such great info, thanks for this video I had got the Brembo kit a month ago but couldn't figure out the rear brakes or the wheel options
Nice job. I do have a question. You mentioned gain in pedal travel due to larger calipers. i don't see how that would be correct as Hydraulic fluid does not compress. Unless you have air in the lines. One thing that comes to mind is the stock master is in the car type to move a lot more fluid. You master acts as a pump and you are now trying to move a lot more piston diameter. That would be why your pedal got softer. I think upgrading the master to something with a larger piston diameter would help with the extra pedal travel.
You're correct. The issue is this car already has a 1 1/16th master. That was the biggest master Ford ever offered for these cars. Swapping to a different master is not easy either because this car has hydroboost. Baer makes a kit for a 1 1/8 on a hydroboost car but it's over $450 the last time I checked. It's not worth spending that kind of money on. It has some travel before it grabs and the pedal is nice and firm. I still have no issue locking up the front wheels. Just as more travel before the brakes engage than a PBR setup.
My god that make your mustang slower with GM parts was priceless 😂😂
I think you need to upgrade your master cylinder to improve your pedal feel. I know the fox cobra upgrade kit came with booster and master to correct for the upgraded brakes front and back. I started with the original cobra upgrade on my fox station wagon, now I've upgraded to the cobra r brembos and the taurus calipers will be the final piece. If it turns out that the ats brakes provide significantly more stopping power then I may try them. The internal crossover may be a concern because the force used to clamp the rotor is also trying to separate the two caliper halves. Great video. Nice job!
There's no upgraded masters for a hydro boost car. It already has a 1 1/16th.
I subscribed because of the job you did with this viddy. FANTASTIC!!!
Great video! I am adding this setup to my '85 GT and Cobra rear disc for strictly endurance racing use. Since Repair Geek indicates the bias is similar to stock, does anyone know whether the stock brake distribution block on the '85 Mustang will work ok with this upgraded brake setup? I recognize that I will need to install a '87-93 GT booster and a 1 1/16" MC.
Is this kit capable of accommodating a 17" wheel, or does it require an 18" or larger wheel?
Technically all you have to do is drill out the spindle to a 14.3mm opening and it all bolts up without the kit. You will have to either machine the contact area to spindle 2mm or space the rotor out 2mm for perfect Fitment.
You can. It also turns a $200 spindle into a paper weight unless you run this caliper. Also, these bushings drop the caliper down onto the rotor further as well. Again you could accomplish the same thing slotting out the holes correctly but you really don't want a brake caliper bolting into a slotted hole.
Excúseme not everyone has a metal Lathe machine 😂
could i use the 43mm rear caliper with the Lincoln 73mm front caliper? 5 lug conversion no sn95 spindles. but using 93 cobra booster and and matching mc.
AWESOME video! Never knew this kinda thing existed! Wish I could adapt this to an svt lightning though!
Man, I wish I saw this before I resurrected the $500 car. I had to replace 90% of all that stuff anyway.
Thank you bro!! Amazing breakdown video! Think this is def the direction Im gonna go with my sn95 now. One thing I'm thinking, and will have to do a little research on, you mentioned softer pedal feel, gotta be a master cylinder upgrade out there that would probably help with that🤔
Not for a 96+ hydroboost car. The stock 96+ master is 1 1/16th. Some of the older superduty stuff had a 1 1/8 but they used a different mounting flange for the master and a larger booster that doesn't fit.
Genius thanks bud!
Did you ever do a long term video for these brakes?
How can I measure my existing rims to know if they will work with this upgrade or not?
94-2004 cobras also have the same rear caliper as the Taurus,
No they don't. Check the piston sizes.
What about using stock cobra rear calipers?
Great video, thank you!.
Do you know if the 17" 10th anniversary wheels will fit with these calibers?
Also for 03 cobra, the rear caliper is different than GT do I still have to replace it with Taurus? Not sure the cobra rear caliber piston size tho.
Wouldn’t you be able to use a proportioning valve to fix the bias?
Something to Ponder with the ATS Caddy Caliper is the ability to switch the bleed screws to either end. Does that mean you do not need a right and left Caliper?
That whole rear rotor has paint on it!
And the first time you apply the brakes it comes right off.
Great channel super helpful are your fr500s 17s??
18"
What size are the rotors? I want sport rotors, but you linked OE style smooth rotors and they don't list the size.
13"
Just an fyi for anyone that needs it, test fit before paint. Also this setup does not work with 03-04 cobra factory wheels without a huge spacer. I am going to grind down the face of the caliper a little to hopefully clear.
Odd, I've seen multiple pictures of them working together.
I install cobra rear calipers on my fox body mustang a Taurus calipers are bigger
Hi, just wanted to make sure, so the rotor listed in the description will fit in the front with the ats calipers correct? I am looking into doing this and want to make sure it will fit. Also, maybe stupid question but do you need brake pads for the tarus calipers in the rear?
Wait so we need the 11.5" rear cobra rotors with the Taurus calipers in the rear? Just want to double check before I pull the trigger on the rears. I already have the brembos up front and need to fix the variance
The taurus calipers will help the rear bias even on a 10 inch rotor. You dont need the 11.65 rotor to install the taurus caliper. It will bolt up fine. The 11.65 rear w/taurus calipers is virtually stock as far as bias using ATS fronts.
@@RepairGeek so I can bolt up the Taurus rear caliper and use either the 10" rotor or the 11.6"?
Not sure what you are working on but, yes using a 94-04 mustang caliper bracket yes, bolts right in.
Nice content. Is there a steering knuckle upgrade to use with that 4 piston caliper for classic full size ford cars. What is the bolt pattern?
Struggling to find these rotors. Do you have a part number for the set you installed? Link in the description brings me to a different set on Amazon.
Appreciate all the details in your content. Thank you.
They aren't worth the coin. This price is for 1 rotor.. I paid $250 for the pair. Here's a link:www.cspracing.com/dba-dba5069gldxs-94-04-mustang-cobra-bullitt-mach1-front-drilled-slotted-5000-series-2-piece-rotor-assembled-w/dba5069gldxs/
@@RepairGeek appreciate the link and the honesty. Thank you.
I contacted Russell for braided brake lines and I’m confused. Their first email response to me merely said to check their catalog and answered none of my questions. I followed up earlier today stating that they do not have a listing for 03/04 Mach 1s and asked if there was a part number not shown in their catalog. I also asked if their lines would fit/work with ATS calipers….they said I’ll have to build my own set! 😫
I have an 03 Mach with traction control, would the part number you used work for me?
Great video!!!! Every informative and to the point. Just subscribe.
I'm in the middle of this upgrade (amazing video!) and am currently wheel shopping. Anyone have any idea of the offset that will fit these?
With the Rear Taurus Calipers, do you need to install the 11.65 rotor conversion bracket still, or can you put these calipers on with a cobra rear rotor? I am not wanting to pull the rear axles out....again.
Did this make the brake pedal any deeper, as in you have to push the pedal down further than before the upgrade? Increasing slave piston area will require more fluid. Did you replace he master with a larger one?
Looks good man. what size rim you use on the front? what offset clears the Caliper?
Fan Freakin 'A' Tastic! Great! Thanks.
Would the ATS brembo’s clear 17x9 wheels? I have the oem Tri-bars on my 95 GT but I’ll be switching them over for Cobra R wheels soon. Regardless both would be 17x9
Love it did it , I noticed a softer brake pedal , which I figured would be the case with more pistons up front . Would it be wise to upgrade brake booster ? Or just run it ?
Is the system fully bled? What master do you have?
My car as more travel in the pedal but once it bites the pedal is very firm.
I need a link to the front braided brake lines to use for 95 mustang gt. The links listed aren’t working help please ?
I installed a 5.0L on my vehicle, I’m looking at upgrading my brakes any idea if this will fit an ‘08 Ranger?
Out of curiosity would it be possible to use this brake setup designed on a Mustang on a 2000 Ford Ranger with stock front and 8.8 Explorer disc brake rear end?
Think link for the braided brake lines are no longer shows, what lines are you using?
Is it worth going with the 11.65" rear rotors or do the stock GT ones make full contact when you have the Tauros caliper?
I want to upgrade my 06 mustang brakes ( rotors/calipers/pads) I would so appreciate any recommendation! You know your stuff brother. I was looking at the z23 but not real impressed unless you think differently?
do they have to be the cobra rotors or as long as their 13 inch rotors it will work?
i wonder if this will work on a 08 crown vic…could be nice
How’s the brake pedal feel and initial bite? Does it make a huge difference or just marginal/compromise besides getting the willwood or bear breaks? I’d rather by once cry once hahaha 😭
It had enough brake power to compelety overwhelm a set of 275 Nitto 555's in a panic stop. I've since upgraded to Michelin PS4S's they have much more grip than the nittos.
Killer video, you answered some questions I've had about this swap and one or two I hadn't worried about finding the answers to yet. I really appreciate the level of detail here. I do have 3 questions:
First, is the rotor spacer really necessary? If we moved the caliper back from the spindle by using spacers on the caliper mounting the same thickness as the rotor spacer, wouldn't that have the same effect and also give a slight extra bit of wheel clearance?
Second, have you given any thought to changing out the master cylinder to one with a bigger bore to get the pedal feel back to stock? I was thinking maybe the Cobra R master if it had a bigger bore would be a good first step but I haven't looked at the numbers yet.
Third, could you keep the brake bias similar to stock by switching out to a larger rear rotor with something like the FTBR kit instead of swapping to a larger piston caliper? That might swing the brake bias too much in the other direction but might help with pedal feel as you wouldn't be increase the rear piston diameter.
1) Putting washers behind the caliper would make the issue of centering the rotor worse. Without a rotor spacer the rotor is closer to the inboard pistons than the outboard pistons. Shimming the caliper with washers would push the caliper more towards the outside of the car and make the issue worse. The caliper needs to be closer inboard to not need the rotor spacer. Machining down the ears on the caliper would do this but, then you need to make sure the caliper is perfectly perpendicular to the rotor. This isn't easy to do precisely without a milling machine. @ 6:37 gives the best visual on this.
2) This car already has a 1 1/16th bore master cylinder on it. That's as large as they get for one of these mustangs because this car has hydroboost. To keep my booster that's as large of a master as I can run. Some super duty trucks has a 1 1/8th master and a hydroboost but the mounting flange for the master is different and won't work. So 1 1/16th is as large as you can go as far as I'm aware.
3) This one I'm not sure to be completely honest with you. The FTBR kit that I saw was over $800 to put a 13 inch rotor on the back of one of these cars. There may be a cheaper option but I didn't see it on their website. Someone is going to have to run the #'s to see what that bias would be on that setup. Adding nearly 1.5" of rotor will help with brake torque but without hard #'s on bias I would have a hard time telling people to go that route. Yes it would help with pedal feel but, $800 is a steep price to pay for some rear rotors and a caliper bracket. The 11.65" Ford racing kit is half that cost. Also you're stuck buying replacement rotors from FTBR with their kit. What I spoke of in this video you can buy replacement parts at any auto parts store as long as you are willing to press bushings out of the front calipers and transfer them.
@@RepairGeek
You nailed it on #1, I wasn't visualizing it properly in my head when I was thinking about it. #2 I've been seeing conflicting info on the MC bore sizes. I see 1" or 1 1/16" the SN95 MC bore sizes depending on where I look, all the parts catalogues list 1", where did you get the 1 1/16" bore MC or is that the stock unit? Baer makes a nice aftermarket 1 1/8" MC for the SN95, but it is 450 bucks or so which doesn't help keep the cost down. #3 I hadn't looked at pricing on that FTBR kit in a LONG time and it has gone up quite a bit so I think swapping the calipers over to the larger piston makes sense here.
I want to say all the 96+ V8 cars had a 1 1/16th master. I know mine does. Guys with a 1" MC run out of travel with this setup. I looked at that Baer unit. It's intriguing but at $435 it's a bit too much $ to gamble. What I have isn't bad at all.
@@RepairGeek
Thanks for the info and the conversation. If I find a good factory part that has a 1 1/8" bore I'll try to remember to come back here an post it up.
Not hydra boost but the svo has an 1”1/8 thinking about doing this swap since all the brakes are gummed up on this 27 year garage piece of my dads. Thanks for all the info!
Yeah well done geek good job
So just to clarify, if I were to use the ATS calipers in tandem with the Taurus calipers, and a 1 1/16 master cylinder, I would NOT have to use an adjustable prop valve as i would retain the “stock” bias with the Taurus calipers ? Or would I still need an adjustable prop valve? Have a foxbody btw but considering this setup
Considering those were rear drum originally I'm not sure to be perfectly honest with you. If it was me I would bolt this setup on, drive it a litte and see how it behaves. If the rears lock before the fronts install the proportioning valve. You will need the 1 1/16" master for sure.
@@RepairGeek yeah I ordered a stock 87-93 booster to pair with a 94-95 gt master. Since I have a 1980, I can’t fit any booster bigger than the stock gt without beating the hell out of my strut tower which I refuse to do. 😂
@@RepairGeek can I get your instagram in case I have any other questions ?
@@mikecam94 repairgeek365@gmail.com it may take me a day or 2 but I'll get back to you.
Just Bought A Pair 200$ Shipped 😎
The link for the brake lines no longer works, are they gt or cobra brake lines I just want to be sure
Have you ever seen these brakes on the front with 17” racestars? The small 4” ones, thanks. I searched online a few times with no results
How well do these calipers work with stock foxbody 87-93 brake booster?
Hell of a video
I wonder if this would also work on a crown victoria
I've been seing mention of a slightly larger rotor, 13.1 or .2 i think? Is there a Mustang/Cobra rotor that will center and face the full pad so there is no material on the outside creating a lip? And also you rotor link goes to a 14" rotor. Seems incorrect. Also, the Banjo bolts link looks nasty. No copper bushings and looks like cast garb. any link to a better banjo bolt? Can you use the stock Cobra brake hoses with a new Banjo?
I have a lip at the top probably around 1/8th of an inch on the pad. I've ran this setup on a 6000 mile cross country drive and a track day at the halfway point of that trip. This setup works great.
As far as the rotor I have linked, that is a 94-04 13" rotor. The dimensions listed on the amazon page are for the size of the rotor's box, not the rotor itself.
Banjo bolt information: 9:56
Awesome video. I read the s&s bushings can also be used for the XTS calipers and run 14” rotors. I am building a fox with coyote supercharged. I want stopping power but moving up to 14” could create a rear caliper problem. Do you know which rear caliper would work to keep the bias as intended ?
Nope, that's why I went with 13's.
@@RepairGeek what brand are those 2 piece rotors ?
DBA.
I have a 94 convertible will I need to update the master cylinder?
Can't you simply adjust your proportioning valve to adjust front to rear bias? That seems to be the easier step vs having to change calipers in the rear too.
Proportioning valves are only used for tuning. They can't make up for engineering problems.
@@RepairGeek don't see how it's an engineering "problem" if you literally have control over setting the desired bias. Assuming you're not drastically out of balance and the rears being terribly undersized, dialing it in is essentially the completion of the engineering process.
I'm curious would this work for a 6th gen Ford Taurus for front brakes? This would help a lot on my 2013
Do you have a link to the spare tire wheel and tire you bought?
I would like 15 inch calipers, do you think that would be possible?
Thanks for the info .you got a new subscriber
Will these work on a 1967 Camaro I want to do a brake upgrade not sure which route to take
I cannot find the caliber bushings. Can you send me the link?
so is there a rotor I can use if i need to use the stock gt sized rotors . Id love to go to a vented rotor, but I cant fit that behind my rear drag wheel?
Did you upgrade the master cylinder, if so, what did you go with?
Stock 1 1/16th bore master on this car.
Hello, I've ordered the parts for the front, but do you know what is needed to be able to mount to the Taurus rear calipers onto a Foxbody (91) rear end? Great video, thanks for making it!
You will need to order whatever it takes to put a 11.5 SN95 rear rotor and caliper on a fox.
I have a '00 v6 new edge I'm building as a drift car. I was wondering if you might know whether or not the taurus rear calipers would work with the dual caliper brackets for a drift set-up? I assume the dual caliper bracket is meant for the stock GT brake calipers, and I plan on upgrading the brakes all around when I go to dual caliper, but until I saw this video I was gonna go with GT brakes. But if the Taurus rear calipers will also work, then I'll go with them and the ATS fronts.
If the bracket is designed for a stock 94-04 mustang rear caliper, it will bolt right in.
The brakes are the same on the v6 and GT.
Do you know which are the rear sets of pads using the Taurus caliper and cobra sized rear rotors? I got the power stop evolution plus for the front, and wanted to get some similar ones for the rear, let me know 🙌
I'm not sure what you're asking.
@@RepairGeek what pads did you get for the rear
@@RepairGeek I got the front branded ones that u got, but I wanted to see what u ran for rear pads regarding the brand
Buy 94-04 Cobra rear pads. I just ran the same powerstop ceramics on the rear.
@@RepairGeek the cobra rear pads fit on the Taurus calipers ? 🙌
That’s weird that the pedal is softer. Every car I’ve upgraded the brakes in had less pedal travel than before
The pistons are bigger. It takes more volume to fill them. You could put in a larger master but it's not necessary. The old PBR/Cobra calipers had very little travel in the pedal. This setup feels very normal, easy to modulate but panic stops lock up the wheels easier.
My brembos came with no pins does anyone have a part #.
Im stuck.
There are cheaper Cobra calipers besides SVE. And BREMBOs are very expensive. Those Cobra calipers stop HARD.