LMM has a wrist pin issue, which is why he talked about the piston cracking. It's believed it's due to the injectors having 6 spray holes instead of the previous gen (LBZ) having 7. Not that the LBZ is any better. It puts opposing fuel streams right above the wrist pin.
Looking at upgrading my lmm, don’t do anything crazy with it, looking for a bit better fuel economy and longevity out of the motor. Would you suggest the PPE xcelerator BEFORE upgrading the exhaust. Looking to do pcv reroute, lb7 up pipe etc etc, any advice would be appreciated! Thanks
Go with same day tuning bud. I get 28mpg on the highway. Company in Canada and is a stage 5 EFI live tune and has transmission tunes. They do custom tunes as well
Exhaust would be the PPE manifolds or DHD then go on to upgraded up pipes from DHD get all new gaskets and hardware you’ll need it lol. PPE 3” downpipe, 5” straight pipe exhaust. My EGTs are super low when I had that setup alone. Now I have the Full HSP kit and a stock turbo with built internals and a wicked wheel-( wicked wheels do practically nothing Jtlyn) just didn’t want to put the factory shaft and wheel back in. Uhhh lift pump definitely just go with a airdog or Fass 165 or 155 if your gonna want mods. With this also go ahead and get a sump kit for your tank. Believe me it works wonders and makes the install a hell of a lot easier. I did do some transmission work myself I got the valve body pulled and put a shift kit in it and Mike L springs that comboed with transmission tuneing was given me a hell of a reliable and fast truck. It beats a 6.2 Camaro to 0-60 but obviously I don’t have the speed in those higher gears like a car.
Ohhh and make sure to get rid of the fuel filter on the truck. No need for the fuel restriction your lift pump does a way better job and doesn’t leak down pressure causing crank no start issues later on. So real good idea to go aftermarket and get a billet block That retains the water in fuel sensor don’t just get a cup or a blocker. Remove the whole thing and go aftermarket. I also would recommend for fuel getting the fuel block from DHD she lets all the flow go and I believe the aftermarket fuel filter head that’s billet has 1/2” lines going to the pump. Also upgraded my cp3 pump fittings as well. Another good one. Welcome to Duramaxs they are fun but cost money to have it 😭
LMM turbo is actually smaller than a LLY turbo. 61.99mm vs 63.5ish (most people say 64mm) largest stock turbo on any Duramax. I know the mouthpiece on a LLY can be altered slightly to fit a LBZ turbo. Which doesn’t help your question. But with the smaller turbo I can only assume there would be fitment issues.
LMM has a wrist pin issue, which is why he talked about the piston cracking. It's believed it's due to the injectors having 6 spray holes instead of the previous gen (LBZ) having 7. Not that the LBZ is any better. It puts opposing fuel streams right above the wrist pin.
Looking at upgrading my lmm, don’t do anything crazy with it, looking for a bit better fuel economy and longevity out of the motor. Would you suggest the PPE xcelerator BEFORE upgrading the exhaust. Looking to do pcv reroute, lb7 up pipe etc etc, any advice would be appreciated! Thanks
L - It honestly wouldn't matter either way! We tend to lean on adding all of the bolt ons you want before tuning.
@@8020Mediagreat, thanks guys I appreciate it
Go with same day tuning bud. I get 28mpg on the highway. Company in Canada and is a stage 5 EFI live tune and has transmission tunes. They do custom tunes as well
Exhaust would be the PPE manifolds or DHD then go on to upgraded up pipes from DHD get all new gaskets and hardware you’ll need it lol. PPE 3” downpipe, 5” straight pipe exhaust. My EGTs are super low when I had that setup alone. Now I have the Full HSP kit and a stock turbo with built internals and a wicked wheel-( wicked wheels do practically nothing Jtlyn) just didn’t want to put the factory shaft and wheel back in. Uhhh lift pump definitely just go with a airdog or Fass 165 or 155 if your gonna want mods. With this also go ahead and get a sump kit for your tank. Believe me it works wonders and makes the install a hell of a lot easier. I did do some transmission work myself I got the valve body pulled and put a shift kit in it and Mike L springs that comboed with transmission tuneing was given me a hell of a reliable and fast truck. It beats a 6.2 Camaro to 0-60 but obviously I don’t have the speed in those higher gears like a car.
Ohhh and make sure to get rid of the fuel filter on the truck. No need for the fuel restriction your lift pump does a way better job and doesn’t leak down pressure causing crank no start issues later on. So real good idea to go aftermarket and get a billet block That retains the water in fuel sensor don’t just get a cup or a blocker. Remove the whole thing and go aftermarket. I also would recommend for fuel getting the fuel block from DHD she lets all the flow go and I believe the aftermarket fuel filter head that’s billet has 1/2” lines going to the pump. Also upgraded my cp3 pump fittings as well. Another good one. Welcome to Duramaxs they are fun but cost money to have it 😭
Can a Lly mouthpiece fit a lmm turbo? What are the differences?
LMM turbo is actually smaller than a LLY turbo. 61.99mm vs 63.5ish (most people say 64mm) largest stock turbo on any Duramax. I know the mouthpiece on a LLY can be altered slightly to fit a LBZ turbo. Which doesn’t help your question. But with the smaller turbo I can only assume there would be fitment issues.
D - Thanks for taking the time to respond to a viewer!
I think tuning has a lot to do with how much your pistons can handle. Good tuning you can easily do 600+
C - We agree. We like to do reliable mod videos, but with the right money, you can certainly push these much further.
Miller Matthew Miller Angela Thompson Betty
C - What?