Tools used in this video: Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7 Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2 Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp Chemicals: Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9 Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build: Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Have done about 100 diffs in my career and here I am just watching other people work just to see if I might learn something and I for sure did. The press trick with the ring gear bolts made me slap my head and say why didn’t I think of that. Cheers dude.
For as popular as the 8.8 is there are surprisingly few good quality videos on rebuilding one and setting one up. I’m really impressed with this video!
In the middle of my first rebuild, just watched this video and realized that I had no hope of getting this together properly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and giving me a chance to get this right
Thanks a lot for taking the time! I thought it required a shop and a lot more special tooling to rebuild them. Learning of the trial and error and having to rebuild it like 5 times on the ground is real motivation to go fight some stuck drain plugs to change the fluid... Pretension your 2 gear sandwiches so they mesh together just right.
I love your videos, I got hooked when I found the fluid film series. Lots of great info, very little to no "fluff" or nonsense. Thanks for putting these out, I've shared the fluid film links many times with guys in the Cherokee "XJ" groups, and real life friends.
Thanks for all the valuable information in this video. Funny how the experienced mechanics on tv and TH-cam just "slap" in a new rear end because they want different gear ratios and never talk about all the steps required. Maybe they don't know, or they're hoping for the best. They certainly don't talk about it.
I recently rebuild front differential of X5 e53. The diff was TYP-174. The problem was - there was noises , and the diff has already been "repaired" by previous mechanic. Here's some tips for differential "rebuilding". First - just before removing the unit from the car measure the turning preload of the pinion. You don't need to know the specs -this is just a quick and dirty test to try pinpoint the nature of problem. If you read 0 Nm(i'm European) then 90% chance your problem is just excessive bearing wear. If you got reading above 0, then maybe the differential wasn't set to specs before , or there's gearset geometry or geartooth problems. Check for excessive runout at the pinion flange. Before removing the gearset from the housing check the ring gear for runout. Measure and compare backlash of EVERY GEAR tooth on the ring gear. Difference from the lowest and highest backlash reading greater than 0.050mm/0.002inch indicates a problem with geometry. When disassembling remove bearing caps with hand tools to "feel" if some bolt has loosened and thus contributed for the current problem. Backlash/freeplay is needed because gears expand from heat but you still need the extreme pressure oil to be able to lubricate between the gears without separating from the face of the gears like if the backlash becomes 0. Too much backlash creates noises, and latter - vibrations if not addressed. If changing PINION BEARINGS you must take in account "pinion dept" if you're not setting the pinion depth to factory spec. Measure the current pinion depth(that is if you know for sure THIS IS the correct depth, otherwise you risk having to redo the whole thing again if the final pattern check directs a change of pinion depth either inwards or outwards.) It can be done with special tools , or straightedge and depth micrometer/vernier caliper. You need to know this because even if you keep the current shims , the new bearing could be different thickness because of manufacturing tolerances/variations. So if the new bearings are thicker you'll need to replace the current shim/shims with thinner and vice versa. Another tip - always set the preload of the bearings at the higher spec given. Over time , while the bearings is wearing , the preload will only get loose and looser. A tip recommended from manufacturers of specialty drivetrain aftermarket parts - they recommend if removing/installing the ring gear from differential case always to use red loctite on the bolts and tighten the bolts in 2 stages. First stage is half the specified torque .This is because sudden excessive torque could distort the ring gear flatness just like when installing cylinder heads. Another tip from aftermarket performance parts manufacturers : painting all the gears during contact pattern check/test is recommended.Then install the axle shafts and brakes. Partially apply the brakes using adjustable brake pedal depressor tool until it takes about 70nm to rotate the pinion flange. Rotate the the flange 3 or 4 times forward and backward. If you think this is not necessary , here's the explanation i got on "Pirate 4x4" forums, when i asked why is this needed. Because not every pinion-ring gearset is "nonhunting" type. Nonhunting means every pinion tooth got it's mated tooths on the ring gear. Every rotation of the gearset the same pinion tooth contacts the same ring gear teeths. If the set is "hunting" or "partial nonhuntin" the pinion teeths contact different teeths at the ring gear than the ones contacted the previous rotation of the gearset. Also this technique can help catch if there's geometry problem with the gears , that is if you before that didn't measure backlash at ALL the teeth or didn't test for ring gear runout or pinion gear shaft runout. Final tip: when changing the oil , after draining all the oil from the housing , it's recommended to lift the car first from the left and then fromthe right. That way oil that's left in the left/right tubeing would drain also. And finally my unnecessary opinion on this FORD 8.8 differential. Judging by the info from 23:30 , this unit was "repaired" before. They setup the the preloads and backlash okay, but messed up the pinion depth because they changed the pinion bearings with a thicker/thinner ones, while keeping the factory shim. Finally they run a contact pattern check , saw something is wrong , call it a day because whether or not the pattern check, they knew the preloads and backlash were okay AND otherwise they needed to redo everyting from the start again(if they even knew, what they must do to fix the problem).
You sir have been added to my list of top 5 excellent auto repair channels. Excellent teacher and professional done video. Looking forward to viewing more of your content!
Now that I am retired, this is the job I want to tackle on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt with 135,000 miles on her. This IS the best diff. video I have seen on YT!! Thanks for ANOTHER great video!!!!
Don’t set yourself a strict deadline or budget. You are going to make mistakes and be redoing things and at some point, feel like you are wasting time and money. Just stick with it, take as much time as you need, don’t be scared to spend more than you budgeted. At the end you’ll have something to be proud of, and a whole new skill set.
I never comment on videos ….. but this time I am amazed!!!!!! I do my own repairs for my car and van as I don’t trust mechanics especially here in London. But I will ship my van to you to do the repair on differential. Truly amazing video …. There is no many people left with a gift like that 😉
"Indexible prybar" I've been prying on stuff for 50 years and never heard of that. Thanks for the tip! Just goes to show that you'll never know everything and if you stop trying to learn then life is going to be harder than it needs to be.
Excellent video. Just got done rebuilding my first rear end, ford 8.8. Your video helped tons with getting the confidence and torque specs. Thanks a lot for the best Diff video out there.
@@OtherDalfite a whole day on a lift with all the tools. I think the flat rate booktime is like 6.6 hours. Had help from senior techs but had to go snag a new ring n pinion gear once I saw my original was cracked
@@OtherDalfite it’s definitely possible, but it’s hard. Either you’re working your ass off or you pay someone however much to have it done right. I’ll say as a tech, hope I never have to do it again 😅
Hey man...I don't think I'll ever replace a rear end. I have a 1997 Expedition with 4.6, so I've watched a lot of your videos. This video right here is my ASMR. Hope you are successful with your TH-cam channel.
The sad thing is that most mechanics won't prioritize fair pricing, yet they still make the same money as those with great attention to detail. Thanks for the very informative video.deo.
Wow.... Just Wow!!!!! what a GREAT.... Informative video!!!!! Amazing!!!! you should be a shop teacher if you aren't... Look forward to more great content!!!
100% agree with the other comments. This video is the most helpful, informative video on the subject that I’ve found. The terminology is now clear and the order in which they occur. I have a 2016 GM 12 Bolt that had a failed (lower/Inner) bearing. The odd thing is that the pinion shim was behind the upper bearings race. Between the race and housing. Not under the lower pinion bearing like ever other rear diff videos I’ve seen. It was destroyed during race removal. We got all GM genuine parts including a set of pinion shims. No diagram shows shim locations. I suppose I will have to match up the 1 shim and place it in that same location. But I can’t help but wonder if that shim location is what caused the bearing to fail.
I'm been a mechanic for about 8 years. Recently been upgrading my diff rebuild tools and buying what I don't have. I just purchased a pinion depth tool kit for about $500. Do you think if you used s pinion depth tool it could have saved you alot of time. Which I'm glad you didn't use one because not everyone has one and it can be done without one. But trying to make money off the job and time is money, I could potentially save a few extra times of having to take everything back apart again.
One way to lock the gears so they dont spin on you is to throw a cloth rag in there so they jam up while your tighten/losing linion bolt or other bolts that will turn the ring gear/pinion. Works well
what ive done with DANA is use a beach towel on the ring. rotate the pinion and the compression of the gears sucking that towel in will press the carrier out of the pumpkin. does that work on here too id think?
Excellent Explanation - Kudos! But it makes me wonder, do the guys in rear end shops really put it together and take it apart half a dozen times to get it right, or just slap it together and call it good enough? Kinda scary to think about.
Changed tire size and the 4:10 reduced to 3.72 and a 9% split between speedo and GPS. Lost the pinion bearing so made the switch to 4:56 which brought transmission back to 4:10. Wasn’t too difficult but was time consuming to get it right.
I like your methodological way of things, thats how paid mechanics should be, which, unfortunately, most of them are not. Did you find out the root cause of those bearing galling though?
I need to do my 07 mustang sometime. The previous owner put 4:11 gears in it and it has excessive backlash. When i replaced the clutch i noticed when i took the driveshaft off the pinion had a couple of degrees of movement. I can never just idle in a gear because it bucks back and forth bad. Its still driveable it's just really annoying in traffic.
Regarding the pinion bearing mismatch...normally Ford axles aren't painted from the factory. They are bare steel and usually surface rust quickly. I'd wager that the axle/gears/differential has been worked on before your ownership by someone with either substandard experience or tools and didn't get things back together correctly in the field. They may have inexplicably partially disassembled the axle to paint it. Both Koyo and Timken have excellent quality controls, neither should have failed if they were installed correctly and the fluid was changed often. Severe usage would negate all of the above - being a Mustang, that's always going to be a factor.
Hi, I am from Chile, South America. Very nice video!!!. I can see a lot of work, not only technical but also video editing. Well done!!!. 👏👏👏I´ve been working on my 2013 Mustang Gt for years, I only use OEM parts, and Ford Racing are the best!!!. They really last longer and always fit well. I got a doudt, I´m just close to do my diff service (That´s why I found your video), and I´m thinking to pick a Carbon Disc M4700C Ford Racing kit. What do You think about it?. You got M4700B, but carbon should be a better choice, in performance and durability.
Thank you, tomorrow I'm going to be tackling ring n pinion swaps on a jeep Rubicon w dana 44 front n rear, ive watched nearly a dozen videos to gather as many tips n tricks as possible so it'll go as smoothly as possible, I wish I had seen this one a week or more ago I probably would have ordered a set of the solid pinion spacers, but I did order a extra set of crush sleeves in case I over torque I can stay on track, I have to ask the reasoning w using the crush sleeve for setup and pattern reading? Other videos I've watched setup is done w no sleeve, than install crush sleeve at Final assembly? Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
My reasoning was 2 fold: 1 demonstrate how to set up a crush sleeve on video 2 once the pinion had the correct preload with the crush sleeve, that gave me a starting point for shim thickness.
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb. It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear. I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original. Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Didn't say if you used old or new crush sleeve? I gave 10.5 differential, f350 and the big debate us use a crush sleeve or a lit of shims to get the back lash right. At least i think thats right. I haven't decided yet which I'm going to do.
Do you think the temp could contributed to the aftermarket cover? The factory cover allows movement of the fluid through the gears. I saw the Banks guys talking about this. But yea, you’re doing a great job.
In the process of getting my 4.6 mountaineer rear end done. Use the suv for towing my boats. Just purchase new loaded knuckles and pinion gear 3.73. I wanted to ask do I need to purchase a new LS diff in this rebuild process? Also do axles need to be replaced? I have backlash when moving the rear drive shaft? Rebuild the trans truck has 274k miles 29k on tranny.
@@darrisb1727some limited slips are rebuildable but honestly i’d say you should get a new carrier that uses helicial gears for its limited slip then it will never wear out but it’s personal preference
Hey, if my goal is install a LSD, which steps of these can be skipped? I wouldnt need to take out the pinion, or would i? Because maybe the pinion depth has to be adjusted with the new diff carrier. Im not sure how easier would be or if its exactly the same process as changing gear ratios.
Excellent video. I subscribed to your channel. What are your thoughts on the crush sleeve eliminators? EDIT Sorry, I commented before finishing the video. I was trying to decide on ordering extra crush sleeves or the eliminator. Again, excellent video. Thanks!
Im working on a Dana 35 non c clip in a 88 jeep comanche inline 6 4.0. can i replace the crusher sleeve with the shims or the shims with a crusher sleeve on its pinion? Thank you.
I am going to attempt this fort the first time with my 99 XJ. Garage quoted me over 2k to do this. A few questions, do I have to replace the ring and pinion or can I just do the bearings? This might be a stupid question but do I need new crush sleeves every time I tighten the pinion nut?
New crush sleeve every time. You can reuse the ring and pinion and just do bearings but be aware that if the R&P is the source of noise, it's still going to be noisy when the axle is rebuilt with new bearings. Once you have a wear pattern established in a R&P you can't change it. You should be able to reuse your stock shims for everything.
what are your thoughts if youre going to do this job and dont have a lift, you think it'd be easier just to take out the rear axle so youre not crawling under the car, seems like it'd be an absolute bear to do on jack stands
When you purchase Timken bearings you will find Koyo bearings in the packet many times... There is also this... "Koyo Bearings USA LLC Formed Following JTEKT Acquisition of Timken Division."
You're making this wayyy to hard..You did the set up bearings correctly but that crush sleeve debacle smh.. I install the pinion with the set up front and rear pinion bearings installed but Without the crush sleeve then tighten the the pinion nut until all the slop is gone then install the ring gear and check the backlash/adjust if necessary then finally check the pattern to see if the pinion depth is correct..when correct pull apart then assemble with new bearings /with new crush sleeve..the thought of having to crush that crush sleeve 3 or 4 times in a row gives me chills..especially if doing it on the ground under the car..
If the tools are cheaper than taking it to a shop then I would consider doing this myself. Not much point in buying these tools if they're not likely to be used again for several years. And I don't plan on starting a business to pay for the tools.
Tools used in this video:
Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7
Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB
Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz
Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF
Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2
Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs
Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q
Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp
Chemicals:
Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI
Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl
RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9
Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG
Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build:
Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk
Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w
Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ
Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI
Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Have done about 100 diffs in my career and here I am just watching other people work just to see if I might learn something and I for sure did. The press trick with the ring gear bolts made me slap my head and say why didn’t I think of that. Cheers dude.
For as popular as the 8.8 is there are surprisingly few good quality videos on rebuilding one and setting one up. I’m really impressed with this video!
You should receive the mechanic award of the year! What a wonderful and inspiring helpful video
In the middle of my first rebuild, just watched this video and realized that I had no hope of getting this together properly. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and giving me a chance to get this right
Great video!!! You're wisest words were at the end, mentioning there's no such thing as changing your driveline fluids too often.
I did my 21 f250 with 1,000 miles .
Thanks a lot for taking the time! I thought it required a shop and a lot more special tooling to rebuild them. Learning of the trial and error and having to rebuild it like 5 times on the ground is real motivation to go fight some stuck drain plugs to change the fluid... Pretension your 2 gear sandwiches so they mesh together just right.
I love your videos, I got hooked when I found the fluid film series. Lots of great info, very little to no "fluff" or nonsense. Thanks for putting these out, I've shared the fluid film links many times with guys in the Cherokee "XJ" groups, and real life friends.
Thanks for all the valuable information in this video.
Funny how the experienced mechanics on tv and TH-cam just "slap" in a new rear end because they want different gear ratios and never talk about all the steps required. Maybe they don't know, or they're hoping for the best. They certainly don't talk about it.
That Yukon shot across the bow was priceless!!! 😂😂😂
I recently rebuild front differential of X5 e53. The diff was TYP-174. The problem was - there was noises , and the diff has already been "repaired" by previous mechanic. Here's some tips for differential "rebuilding". First - just before removing the unit from the car measure the turning preload of the pinion. You don't need to know the specs -this is just a quick and dirty test to try pinpoint the nature of problem. If you read 0 Nm(i'm European) then 90% chance your problem is just excessive bearing wear. If you got reading above 0, then maybe the differential wasn't set to specs before , or there's gearset geometry or geartooth problems. Check for excessive runout at the pinion flange. Before removing the gearset from the housing check the ring gear for runout. Measure and compare backlash of EVERY GEAR tooth on the ring gear. Difference from the lowest and highest backlash reading greater than 0.050mm/0.002inch indicates a problem with geometry. When disassembling remove bearing caps with hand tools to "feel" if some bolt has loosened and thus contributed for the current problem. Backlash/freeplay is needed because gears expand from heat but you still need the extreme pressure oil to be able to lubricate between the gears without separating from the face of the gears like if the backlash becomes 0. Too much backlash creates noises, and latter - vibrations if not addressed. If changing PINION BEARINGS you must take in account "pinion dept" if you're not setting the pinion depth to factory spec. Measure the current pinion depth(that is if you know for sure THIS IS the correct depth, otherwise you risk having to redo the whole thing again if the final pattern check directs a change of pinion depth either inwards or outwards.) It can be done with special tools , or straightedge and depth micrometer/vernier caliper. You need to know this because even if you keep the current shims , the new bearing could be different thickness because of manufacturing tolerances/variations. So if the new bearings are thicker you'll need to replace the current shim/shims with thinner and vice versa. Another tip - always set the preload of the bearings at the higher spec given. Over time , while the bearings is wearing , the preload will only get loose and looser. A tip recommended from manufacturers of specialty drivetrain aftermarket parts - they recommend if removing/installing the ring gear from differential case always to use red loctite on the bolts and tighten the bolts in 2 stages. First stage is half the specified torque .This is because sudden excessive torque could distort the ring gear flatness just like when installing cylinder heads. Another tip from aftermarket performance parts manufacturers : painting all the gears during contact pattern check/test is recommended.Then install the axle shafts and brakes. Partially apply the brakes using adjustable brake pedal depressor tool until it takes about 70nm to rotate the pinion flange. Rotate the the flange 3 or 4 times forward and backward. If you think this is not necessary , here's the explanation i got on "Pirate 4x4" forums, when i asked why is this needed. Because not every pinion-ring gearset is "nonhunting" type. Nonhunting means every pinion tooth got it's mated tooths on the ring gear. Every rotation of the gearset the same pinion tooth contacts the same ring gear teeths. If the set is "hunting" or "partial nonhuntin" the pinion teeths contact different teeths at the ring gear than the ones contacted the previous rotation of the gearset. Also this technique can help catch if there's geometry problem with the gears , that is if you before that didn't measure backlash at ALL the teeth or didn't test for ring gear runout or pinion gear shaft runout. Final tip: when changing the oil , after draining all the oil from the housing , it's recommended to lift the car first from the left and then fromthe right. That way oil that's left in the left/right tubeing would drain also. And finally my unnecessary opinion on this FORD 8.8 differential. Judging by the info from 23:30 , this unit was "repaired" before. They setup the the preloads and backlash okay, but messed up the pinion depth because they changed the pinion bearings with a thicker/thinner ones, while keeping the factory shim. Finally they run a contact pattern check , saw something is wrong , call it a day because whether or not the pattern check, they knew the preloads and backlash were okay AND otherwise they needed to redo everyting from the start again(if they even knew, what they must do to fix the problem).
Wow! Terrific video you put together.Your opinion on yukon gears made me chuckle a bit as well. 👍
Yep,don't buy Yukon.
You sir have been added to my list of top 5 excellent auto repair channels. Excellent teacher and professional done video. Looking forward to viewing more of your content!
I clicked the thumb up about 10 seconds in because I knew you were going to give it your method. Thorough and informative as well as relateable.
This is the best video on building an 8.8 . I’m about to tackle this on jackstands and have never built a diff. Thanks
How did it go sir
Now that I am retired, this is the job I want to tackle on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt with 135,000 miles on her. This IS the best diff. video I have seen on YT!! Thanks for ANOTHER great video!!!!
Don’t set yourself a strict deadline or budget. You are going to make mistakes and be redoing things and at some point, feel like you are wasting time and money. Just stick with it, take as much time as you need, don’t be scared to spend more than you budgeted. At the end you’ll have something to be proud of, and a whole new skill set.
the best diff. rebuild on TH-cam.
I never comment on videos ….. but this time I am amazed!!!!!! I do my own repairs for my car and van as I don’t trust mechanics especially here in London.
But I will ship my van to you to do the repair on differential.
Truly amazing video …. There is no many people left with a gift like that 😉
"Indexible prybar" I've been prying on stuff for 50 years and never heard of that. Thanks for the tip! Just goes to show that you'll never know everything and if you stop trying to learn then life is going to be harder than it needs to be.
Fantastic ! finally a really concise and informative video, also the clarity of it is perfect ! Well Done !
Excellent video. Just got done rebuilding my first rear end, ford 8.8. Your video helped tons with getting the confidence and torque specs. Thanks a lot for the best Diff video out there.
How long did it take you, beginning to end? I'm about to tackle the job myself
@@OtherDalfite a whole day on a lift with all the tools. I think the flat rate booktime is like 6.6 hours. Had help from senior techs but had to go snag a new ring n pinion gear once I saw my original was cracked
@@Pseudopregnancy no lift here unfortunately
@@OtherDalfite it’s definitely possible, but it’s hard. Either you’re working your ass off or you pay someone however much to have it done right. I’ll say as a tech, hope I never have to do it again 😅
I watched like 4 minutes of this... and wow its great!!! I'll have to come back for the whole thing. Im doing my first one now.
Hey man...I don't think I'll ever replace a rear end. I have a 1997 Expedition with 4.6, so I've watched a lot of your videos. This video right here is my ASMR. Hope you are successful with your TH-cam channel.
The sad thing is that most mechanics won't prioritize fair pricing, yet they still make the same money as those with great attention to detail. Thanks for the very informative video.deo.
I'm enjoying more this videos than my school classes
I'm so grateful that Kevin Bacon's son is teaching us automotive repair skills.
That's a new one.
That undercarriage is CLEAN.
Best teacher on TH-cam, period.🤝
Wow.... Just Wow!!!!! what a GREAT.... Informative video!!!!! Amazing!!!! you should be a shop teacher if you aren't... Look forward to more great content!!!
100% agree with the other comments. This video is the most helpful, informative video on the subject that I’ve found. The terminology is now clear and the order in which they occur.
I have a 2016 GM 12 Bolt that had a failed (lower/Inner) bearing. The odd thing is that the pinion shim was behind the upper bearings race. Between the race and housing. Not under the lower pinion bearing like ever other rear diff videos I’ve seen. It was destroyed during race removal. We got all GM genuine parts including a set of pinion shims. No diagram shows shim locations. I suppose I will have to match up the 1 shim and place it in that same location. But I can’t help but wonder if that shim location is what caused the bearing to fail.
I'm never gonna do this, but enjoyed watching it.
Nice presentation! Spinning the bearings dry was a thing I was taught not to do. A light oil(motor oil) is what I use sparringly.
Hello friend, I follow you from Chile, ask what is the best paint to protect metal from corrosion and humidity, please?
I believe to use the spacer and shims on your pinion pre load, instead of the crusher sleeve, you are saving yourself much pain. Is that correct Sir?
Best video on youtube about diff thanks mate
I'm been a mechanic for about 8 years. Recently been upgrading my diff rebuild tools and buying what I don't have. I just purchased a pinion depth tool kit for about $500. Do you think if you used s pinion depth tool it could have saved you alot of time. Which I'm glad you didn't use one because not everyone has one and it can be done without one. But trying to make money off the job and time is money, I could potentially save a few extra times of having to take everything back apart again.
I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work. 8.8's seem to eat the races like this.
Watching further answered my question about crush sleeve.
One way to lock the gears so they dont spin on you is to throw a cloth rag in there so they jam up while your tighten/losing linion bolt or other bolts that will turn the ring gear/pinion. Works well
I’m getting ready to get my gears done soon and I wish this guy could do them
Doin the Lords work. Keep on teachin em!
Wow haven't finished seeing the video but it's Super awesome and interesting here I go to finish it
Superb video explaining all I wanted to know. Thank you for doing this.
very thorough, hope to apply it to my 8.5 chevy
Great video! Do just measure your used/ set up crush sleeve to get the measurement for the solid pinion spacer + shims?
Exactly, that gave me my starting point.
Thank you, I am going to keep your video next to me during assembly so I don’t forget anything.
what ive done with DANA is use a beach towel on the ring. rotate the pinion and the compression of the gears sucking that towel in will press the carrier out of the pumpkin. does that work on here too id think?
Excellent Explanation - Kudos!
But it makes me wonder, do the guys in rear end shops really put it together and take it apart half a dozen times to get it right, or just slap it together and call it good enough? Kinda scary to think about.
Simply excellent video!
Changed tire size and the 4:10 reduced to 3.72 and a 9% split between speedo and GPS. Lost the pinion bearing so made the switch to 4:56 which brought transmission back to 4:10.
Wasn’t too difficult but was time consuming to get it right.
Great video. Easy to understand.
I like your methodological way of things, thats how paid mechanics should be, which, unfortunately, most of them are not.
Did you find out the root cause of those bearing galling though?
What's up bro. I see you around town. ✌️
Great video 👍
I need to do my 07 mustang sometime. The previous owner put 4:11 gears in it and it has excessive backlash. When i replaced the clutch i noticed when i took the driveshaft off the pinion had a couple of degrees of movement. I can never just idle in a gear because it bucks back and forth bad. Its still driveable it's just really annoying in traffic.
Regarding the pinion bearing mismatch...normally Ford axles aren't painted from the factory. They are bare steel and usually surface rust quickly. I'd wager that the axle/gears/differential has been worked on before your ownership by someone with either substandard experience or tools and didn't get things back together correctly in the field. They may have inexplicably partially disassembled the axle to paint it.
Both Koyo and Timken have excellent quality controls, neither should have failed if they were installed correctly and the fluid was changed often. Severe usage would negate all of the above - being a Mustang, that's always going to be a factor.
Hi, I am from Chile, South America. Very nice video!!!. I can see a lot of work, not only technical but also video editing. Well done!!!. 👏👏👏I´ve been working on my 2013 Mustang Gt for years, I only use OEM parts, and Ford Racing are the best!!!. They really last longer and always fit well. I got a doudt, I´m just close to do my diff service (That´s why I found your video), and I´m thinking to pick a Carbon Disc M4700C Ford Racing kit. What do You think about it?. You got M4700B, but carbon should be a better choice, in performance and durability.
nice work. loving you're videos.
Awesome detailed video !!!!👏👏👏👍🏽🤝
Excellent video
Thank you, tomorrow I'm going to be tackling ring n pinion swaps on a jeep Rubicon w dana 44 front n rear, ive watched nearly a dozen videos to gather as many tips n tricks as possible so it'll go as smoothly as possible, I wish I had seen this one a week or more ago I probably would have ordered a set of the solid pinion spacers, but I did order a extra set of crush sleeves in case I over torque I can stay on track, I have to ask the reasoning w using the crush sleeve for setup and pattern reading? Other videos I've watched setup is done w no sleeve, than install crush sleeve at Final assembly? Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
My reasoning was 2 fold:
1 demonstrate how to set up a crush sleeve on video
2 once the pinion had the correct preload with the crush sleeve, that gave me a starting point for shim thickness.
hey mate love your video thanks for making such an informative video
A Master class!
Awesome presentation
Great Job. Thanks so much!
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb.
It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear.
I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original.
Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Didn't say if you used old or new crush sleeve? I gave 10.5 differential, f350 and the big debate us use a crush sleeve or a lit of shims to get the back lash right. At least i think thats right. I haven't decided yet which I'm going to do.
In regards to the Koyo bearing, I have ordered Timken bearings and received Koyo. However, still odd if truly a factory setup.
I see what looks like arrows (triangles) on the caps. Wouldn't that be enough to get them back in the same place?
Do you think the temp could contributed to the aftermarket cover?
The factory cover allows movement of the fluid through the gears.
I saw the Banks guys talking about this.
But yea, you’re doing a great job.
This is an OEM 2013 Boss 302/Gt500 diff cover. It's radiused just like a stock stamped piece.
Is the bearing that's in the nose a set up bearing as well? Before final assembly?
Thank you ❤ a great video !
When you heated the ring gear and dropped it on - do you have to align the bolt holes yourself, or is there some sort of key to align it?
In the process of getting my 4.6 mountaineer rear end done. Use the suv for towing my boats. Just purchase new loaded knuckles and pinion gear 3.73. I wanted to ask do I need to purchase a new LS diff in this rebuild process? Also do axles need to be replaced? I have backlash when moving the rear drive shaft? Rebuild the trans truck has 274k miles 29k on tranny.
Yes if you're having the rear done, if you want LS do it now, otherwise you'll pay for labor 2x to do it later.
@@RepairGeek Thank you. I will start looking into purchasing the diff. Last question, would you by new diff or the spider gears and keep the carrier?
@@darrisb1727some limited slips are rebuildable but honestly i’d say you should get a new carrier that uses helicial gears for its limited slip then it will never wear out but it’s personal preference
Thank you!
Extremely good video I have done several rear end. Just curious what press is in your shop
Just a harbor freight 20 ton.
Hey, if my goal is install a LSD, which steps of these can be skipped? I wouldnt need to take out the pinion, or would i? Because maybe the pinion depth has to be adjusted with the new diff carrier. Im not sure how easier would be or if its exactly the same process as changing gear ratios.
i appreciate this, brother!
Regarding the crush bearing vs the solid.
Is it just a matter of measuring the crush thickness and adding shims to the solid to match??
Exactly, that gives you a starting point. You make adjustments from there.
One tip: I wouldn't use an impact gun at all during the installation of the pinon crush sleave.
Excellent video. I subscribed to your channel. What are your thoughts on the crush sleeve eliminators? EDIT Sorry, I commented before finishing the video. I was trying to decide on ordering extra crush sleeves or the eliminator. Again, excellent video. Thanks!
Thanks!
Im working on a Dana 35 non c clip in a 88 jeep comanche inline 6 4.0. can i replace the crusher sleeve with the shims or the shims with a crusher sleeve on its pinion? Thank you.
Hello,do you use the c clip agin? I didn’t see it at the end of the install?
My timken wheel bearings are stamped koyo. Maybe the same factory makes them
Wished you showed exactly how dial indicator was touching the gear.
Make sure you're running a limited slip additive in that differential.
I am going to attempt this fort the first time with my 99 XJ. Garage quoted me over 2k to do this. A few questions, do I have to replace the ring and pinion or can I just do the bearings? This might be a stupid question but do I need new crush sleeves every time I tighten the pinion nut?
New crush sleeve every time. You can reuse the ring and pinion and just do bearings but be aware that if the R&P is the source of noise, it's still going to be noisy when the axle is rebuilt with new bearings. Once you have a wear pattern established in a R&P you can't change it. You should be able to reuse your stock shims for everything.
Is the time and labor really worth rebuilding this over just swapping it with a junkyard diff for my "spirited daily driver"?
It just depends. Do you want a different gear ratio, stronger axles, or a non factory LSD. Then, this is your only option.
Gotcha, appreciate man!
Now that it is April was it quiet when you test drove it? Very interested in that thank you!
I've got about 110 miles on it so far. No issues yet. I've touched 65mph once or twice but, I'm still early on the break in.
what are your thoughts if youre going to do this job and dont have a lift, you think it'd be easier just to take out the rear axle so youre not crawling under the car, seems like it'd be an absolute bear to do on jack stands
I'd remove the axle without the lift.
If all I am doing is replacing a carrier bearing, do I need to worry about all of those adjustments?
I have same question
So that backlash is causing the noise it makes
I wonder how much different this is for a front diff on a f150
Where can I find the preload specs and backlash specs for a 1994 mustang cobra?
Which parts are better? Motive Gear Performance or Ford Racing?
Ford.
When you purchase Timken bearings you will find Koyo bearings in the packet many times... There is also this... "Koyo Bearings USA LLC Formed Following JTEKT Acquisition of Timken Division."
Would it be better to get a reman axle?
where are you located? anyone you can recommend in FL, Tampa area or surrounding cities? for a rebuild on a wrangler
You're making this wayyy to hard..You did the set up bearings correctly but that crush sleeve debacle smh.. I install the pinion with the set up front and rear pinion bearings installed but Without the crush sleeve then tighten the the pinion nut until all the slop is gone then install the ring gear and check the backlash/adjust if necessary then finally check the pattern to see if the pinion depth is correct..when correct pull apart then assemble with new bearings /with new crush sleeve..the thought of having to crush that crush sleeve 3 or 4 times in a row gives me chills..especially if doing it on the ground under the car..
If the tools are cheaper than taking it to a shop then I would consider doing this myself. Not much point in buying these tools if they're not likely to be used again for several years. And I don't plan on starting a business to pay for the tools.