Tools used in this video: Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7 Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2 Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp Chemicals: Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9 Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build: Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
For as popular as the 8.8 is there are surprisingly few good quality videos on rebuilding one and setting one up. I’m really impressed with this video!
I never comment on videos ….. but this time I am amazed!!!!!! I do my own repairs for my car and van as I don’t trust mechanics especially here in London. But I will ship my van to you to do the repair on differential. Truly amazing video …. There is no many people left with a gift like that 😉
Now that I am retired, this is the job I want to tackle on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt with 135,000 miles on her. This IS the best diff. video I have seen on YT!! Thanks for ANOTHER great video!!!!
Don’t set yourself a strict deadline or budget. You are going to make mistakes and be redoing things and at some point, feel like you are wasting time and money. Just stick with it, take as much time as you need, don’t be scared to spend more than you budgeted. At the end you’ll have something to be proud of, and a whole new skill set.
Thanks for all the valuable information in this video. Funny how the experienced mechanics on tv and TH-cam just "slap" in a new rear end because they want different gear ratios and never talk about all the steps required. Maybe they don't know, or they're hoping for the best. They certainly don't talk about it.
You sir have been added to my list of top 5 excellent auto repair channels. Excellent teacher and professional done video. Looking forward to viewing more of your content!
I love your videos, I got hooked when I found the fluid film series. Lots of great info, very little to no "fluff" or nonsense. Thanks for putting these out, I've shared the fluid film links many times with guys in the Cherokee "XJ" groups, and real life friends.
Thanks a lot for taking the time! I thought it required a shop and a lot more special tooling to rebuild them. Learning of the trial and error and having to rebuild it like 5 times on the ground is real motivation to go fight some stuck drain plugs to change the fluid... Pretension your 2 gear sandwiches so they mesh together just right.
"Indexible prybar" I've been prying on stuff for 50 years and never heard of that. Thanks for the tip! Just goes to show that you'll never know everything and if you stop trying to learn then life is going to be harder than it needs to be.
100% agree with the other comments. This video is the most helpful, informative video on the subject that I’ve found. The terminology is now clear and the order in which they occur. I have a 2016 GM 12 Bolt that had a failed (lower/Inner) bearing. The odd thing is that the pinion shim was behind the upper bearings race. Between the race and housing. Not under the lower pinion bearing like ever other rear diff videos I’ve seen. It was destroyed during race removal. We got all GM genuine parts including a set of pinion shims. No diagram shows shim locations. I suppose I will have to match up the 1 shim and place it in that same location. But I can’t help but wonder if that shim location is what caused the bearing to fail.
Wow.... Just Wow!!!!! what a GREAT.... Informative video!!!!! Amazing!!!! you should be a shop teacher if you aren't... Look forward to more great content!!!
I recently rebuild front differential of X5 e53. The diff was TYP-174. The problem was - there was noises , and the diff has already been "repaired" by previous mechanic. Here's some tips for differential "rebuilding". First - just before removing the unit from the car measure the turning preload of the pinion. You don't need to know the specs -this is just a quick and dirty test to try pinpoint the nature of problem. If you read 0 Nm(i'm European) then 90% chance your problem is just excessive bearing wear. If you got reading above 0, then maybe the differential wasn't set to specs before , or there's gearset geometry or geartooth problems. Check for excessive runout at the pinion flange. Before removing the gearset from the housing check the ring gear for runout. Measure and compare backlash of EVERY GEAR tooth on the ring gear. Difference from the lowest and highest backlash reading greater than 0.050mm/0.002inch indicates a problem with geometry. When disassembling remove bearing caps with hand tools to "feel" if some bolt has loosened and thus contributed for the current problem. Backlash/freeplay is needed because gears expand from heat but you still need the extreme pressure oil to be able to lubricate between the gears without separating from the face of the gears like if the backlash becomes 0. Too much backlash creates noises, and latter - vibrations if not addressed. If changing PINION BEARINGS you must take in account "pinion dept" if you're not setting the pinion depth to factory spec. Measure the current pinion depth(that is if you know for sure THIS IS the correct depth, otherwise you risk having to redo the whole thing again if the final pattern check directs a change of pinion depth either inwards or outwards.) It can be done with special tools , or straightedge and depth micrometer/vernier caliper. You need to know this because even if you keep the current shims , the new bearing could be different thickness because of manufacturing tolerances/variations. So if the new bearings are thicker you'll need to replace the current shim/shims with thinner and vice versa. Another tip - always set the preload of the bearings at the higher spec given. Over time , while the bearings is wearing , the preload will only get loose and looser. A tip recommended from manufacturers of specialty drivetrain aftermarket parts - they recommend if removing/installing the ring gear from differential case always to use red loctite on the bolts and tighten the bolts in 2 stages. First stage is half the specified torque .This is because sudden excessive torque could distort the ring gear flatness just like when installing cylinder heads. Another tip from aftermarket performance parts manufacturers : painting all the gears during contact pattern check/test is recommended.Then install the axle shafts and brakes. Partially apply the brakes using adjustable brake pedal depressor tool until it takes about 70nm to rotate the pinion flange. Rotate the the flange 3 or 4 times forward and backward. If you think this is not necessary , here's the explanation i got on "Pirate 4x4" forums, when i asked why is this needed. Because not every pinion-ring gearset is "nonhunting" type. Nonhunting means every pinion tooth got it's mated tooths on the ring gear. Every rotation of the gearset the same pinion tooth contacts the same ring gear teeths. If the set is "hunting" or "partial nonhuntin" the pinion teeths contact different teeths at the ring gear than the ones contacted the previous rotation of the gearset. Also this technique can help catch if there's geometry problem with the gears , that is if you before that didn't measure backlash at ALL the teeth or didn't test for ring gear runout or pinion gear shaft runout. Final tip: when changing the oil , after draining all the oil from the housing , it's recommended to lift the car first from the left and then fromthe right. That way oil that's left in the left/right tubeing would drain also. And finally my unnecessary opinion on this FORD 8.8 differential. Judging by the info from 23:30 , this unit was "repaired" before. They setup the the preloads and backlash okay, but messed up the pinion depth because they changed the pinion bearings with a thicker/thinner ones, while keeping the factory shim. Finally they run a contact pattern check , saw something is wrong , call it a day because whether or not the pattern check, they knew the preloads and backlash were okay AND otherwise they needed to redo everyting from the start again(if they even knew, what they must do to fix the problem).
my carrier unit on the left Drivers driver side was disintegrated the bearing got into the ring gear and ruined the ring gear. tiny metal shavings everywhere, I spent many hours just cleaning the differential housing, I used two cans of Gunk engine degreaser, two cans of brake cleaner, it still had tiny shavings, finally I borrowed my neighbors pressure washer, always measure your parts, the solid pinion spacer and shims I ordered on Ebay was too small, I had to order a new one on Amazon, also the pinion seal that came with the rebuild kit was wrong, I ordered Another one Timken on Amazon that is the correct one, I'm doing the final assembly now, this is a hell of a lot of work, my first time doing one. Thank for the video, it has helped tremendously.
Regarding the pinion bearing mismatch...normally Ford axles aren't painted from the factory. They are bare steel and usually surface rust quickly. I'd wager that the axle/gears/differential has been worked on before your ownership by someone with either substandard experience or tools and didn't get things back together correctly in the field. They may have inexplicably partially disassembled the axle to paint it. Both Koyo and Timken have excellent quality controls, neither should have failed if they were installed correctly and the fluid was changed often. Severe usage would negate all of the above - being a Mustang, that's always going to be a factor.
what ive done with DANA is use a beach towel on the ring. rotate the pinion and the compression of the gears sucking that towel in will press the carrier out of the pumpkin. does that work on here too id think?
Changed tire size and the 4:10 reduced to 3.72 and a 9% split between speedo and GPS. Lost the pinion bearing so made the switch to 4:56 which brought transmission back to 4:10. Wasn’t too difficult but was time consuming to get it right.
When you purchase Timken bearings you will find Koyo bearings in the packet many times... There is also this... "Koyo Bearings USA LLC Formed Following JTEKT Acquisition of Timken Division."
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb. It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear. I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original. Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Excellent video. I subscribed to your channel. What are your thoughts on the crush sleeve eliminators? EDIT Sorry, I commented before finishing the video. I was trying to decide on ordering extra crush sleeves or the eliminator. Again, excellent video. Thanks!
Do you think the temp could contributed to the aftermarket cover? The factory cover allows movement of the fluid through the gears. I saw the Banks guys talking about this. But yea, you’re doing a great job.
Hey, if my goal is install a LSD, which steps of these can be skipped? I wouldnt need to take out the pinion, or would i? Because maybe the pinion depth has to be adjusted with the new diff carrier. Im not sure how easier would be or if its exactly the same process as changing gear ratios.
I need to do my 07 mustang sometime. The previous owner put 4:11 gears in it and it has excessive backlash. When i replaced the clutch i noticed when i took the driveshaft off the pinion had a couple of degrees of movement. I can never just idle in a gear because it bucks back and forth bad. Its still driveable it's just really annoying in traffic.
Thank you, tomorrow I'm going to be tackling ring n pinion swaps on a jeep Rubicon w dana 44 front n rear, ive watched nearly a dozen videos to gather as many tips n tricks as possible so it'll go as smoothly as possible, I wish I had seen this one a week or more ago I probably would have ordered a set of the solid pinion spacers, but I did order a extra set of crush sleeves in case I over torque I can stay on track, I have to ask the reasoning w using the crush sleeve for setup and pattern reading? Other videos I've watched setup is done w no sleeve, than install crush sleeve at Final assembly? Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
My reasoning was 2 fold: 1 demonstrate how to set up a crush sleeve on video 2 once the pinion had the correct preload with the crush sleeve, that gave me a starting point for shim thickness.
If the tools are cheaper than taking it to a shop then I would consider doing this myself. Not much point in buying these tools if they're not likely to be used again for several years. And I don't plan on starting a business to pay for the tools.
I am going to attempt this fort the first time with my 99 XJ. Garage quoted me over 2k to do this. A few questions, do I have to replace the ring and pinion or can I just do the bearings? This might be a stupid question but do I need new crush sleeves every time I tighten the pinion nut?
New crush sleeve every time. You can reuse the ring and pinion and just do bearings but be aware that if the R&P is the source of noise, it's still going to be noisy when the axle is rebuilt with new bearings. Once you have a wear pattern established in a R&P you can't change it. You should be able to reuse your stock shims for everything.
8.25”, 3.55 ratio, changed our crushed sleeve, everything is within spec, axels, splines, backlash, drive shaft joint, etc couldn’t be better for used …but I get a clunk in axels/rear tires when accelerating/decellerating, but not when shifting as is with too much backlash …driving me nuts …everything is within spec so ya 🤦🏼
You're making this wayyy to hard..You did the set up bearings correctly but that crush sleeve debacle smh.. I install the pinion with the set up front and rear pinion bearings installed but Without the crush sleeve then tighten the the pinion nut until all the slop is gone then install the ring gear and check the backlash/adjust if necessary then finally check the pattern to see if the pinion depth is correct..when correct pull apart then assemble with new bearings /with new crush sleeve..the thought of having to crush that crush sleeve 3 or 4 times in a row gives me chills..especially if doing it on the ground under the car..
@@RepairGeek Ok thanks ,i just ask because soon i will perform the same job you perform and you know if you apply any lubricant to the bearing before install the pinion i think i will get a different reading when use the Beam Torque... i mean getting different measures with Beam Torque with or without oil in the pinion bearing.
![[UNCUT] “ช่อ พรรณิการ์” ปะทะเดือด “มัลลิกา” ชี้หน้า สั่งหยุด! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 22 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cJ_z_bHnvIE/mqdefault.jpg)
Tools used in this video:
Calipers: amzn.to/48nlVr7
Dial Indicator: amzn.to/3utnAxB
Beam Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3UODXzz
Pinion Flange Holding Tool: amzn.to/3SZ2NLF
Bearing Splitter: amzn.to/4bIN1f2
Bearing/Seal Drivers: amzn.to/3uCYrAs
Hot Plate: amzn.to/3uuUu0Q
Shim Drivers: amzn.to/48j5KLp
Chemicals:
Retaining Compound: amzn.to/3SZpbEI
Thread Locker: amzn.to/48kF7pl
RTV: amzn.to/3OLwaP9
Degreaser: amzn.to/3uBzhlG
Parts used in this Ford 8.8 build:
Ford Performance 4.10 Gears: amzn.to/49EJrRk
Ford Performance Install Kit: amzn.to/3I3hR4w
Torsen T2R Differential: amzn.to/3SKyXsQ
Moser 31 spline Axles: amzn.to/3I4DYaI
Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit: amzn.to/49AKSAr
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
For as popular as the 8.8 is there are surprisingly few good quality videos on rebuilding one and setting one up. I’m really impressed with this video!
You should receive the mechanic award of the year! What a wonderful and inspiring helpful video
I never comment on videos ….. but this time I am amazed!!!!!! I do my own repairs for my car and van as I don’t trust mechanics especially here in London.
But I will ship my van to you to do the repair on differential.
Truly amazing video …. There is no many people left with a gift like that 😉
Now that I am retired, this is the job I want to tackle on my 2001 Mustang GT Bullitt with 135,000 miles on her. This IS the best diff. video I have seen on YT!! Thanks for ANOTHER great video!!!!
Don’t set yourself a strict deadline or budget. You are going to make mistakes and be redoing things and at some point, feel like you are wasting time and money. Just stick with it, take as much time as you need, don’t be scared to spend more than you budgeted. At the end you’ll have something to be proud of, and a whole new skill set.
That undercarriage is CLEAN.
That Yukon shot across the bow was priceless!!! 😂😂😂
Thanks for all the valuable information in this video.
Funny how the experienced mechanics on tv and TH-cam just "slap" in a new rear end because they want different gear ratios and never talk about all the steps required. Maybe they don't know, or they're hoping for the best. They certainly don't talk about it.
You sir have been added to my list of top 5 excellent auto repair channels. Excellent teacher and professional done video. Looking forward to viewing more of your content!
I love your videos, I got hooked when I found the fluid film series. Lots of great info, very little to no "fluff" or nonsense. Thanks for putting these out, I've shared the fluid film links many times with guys in the Cherokee "XJ" groups, and real life friends.
Great video!!! You're wisest words were at the end, mentioning there's no such thing as changing your driveline fluids too often.
I did my 21 f250 with 1,000 miles .
Wow! Terrific video you put together.Your opinion on yukon gears made me chuckle a bit as well. 👍
Yep,don't buy Yukon.
Thanks a lot for taking the time! I thought it required a shop and a lot more special tooling to rebuild them. Learning of the trial and error and having to rebuild it like 5 times on the ground is real motivation to go fight some stuck drain plugs to change the fluid... Pretension your 2 gear sandwiches so they mesh together just right.
I watched like 4 minutes of this... and wow its great!!! I'll have to come back for the whole thing. Im doing my first one now.
"Indexible prybar" I've been prying on stuff for 50 years and never heard of that. Thanks for the tip! Just goes to show that you'll never know everything and if you stop trying to learn then life is going to be harder than it needs to be.
100% agree with the other comments. This video is the most helpful, informative video on the subject that I’ve found. The terminology is now clear and the order in which they occur.
I have a 2016 GM 12 Bolt that had a failed (lower/Inner) bearing. The odd thing is that the pinion shim was behind the upper bearings race. Between the race and housing. Not under the lower pinion bearing like ever other rear diff videos I’ve seen. It was destroyed during race removal. We got all GM genuine parts including a set of pinion shims. No diagram shows shim locations. I suppose I will have to match up the 1 shim and place it in that same location. But I can’t help but wonder if that shim location is what caused the bearing to fail.
Wow.... Just Wow!!!!! what a GREAT.... Informative video!!!!! Amazing!!!! you should be a shop teacher if you aren't... Look forward to more great content!!!
I’m getting ready to get my gears done soon and I wish this guy could do them
the best diff. rebuild on TH-cam.
Best teacher on TH-cam, period.🤝
I recently rebuild front differential of X5 e53. The diff was TYP-174. The problem was - there was noises , and the diff has already been "repaired" by previous mechanic. Here's some tips for differential "rebuilding". First - just before removing the unit from the car measure the turning preload of the pinion. You don't need to know the specs -this is just a quick and dirty test to try pinpoint the nature of problem. If you read 0 Nm(i'm European) then 90% chance your problem is just excessive bearing wear. If you got reading above 0, then maybe the differential wasn't set to specs before , or there's gearset geometry or geartooth problems. Check for excessive runout at the pinion flange. Before removing the gearset from the housing check the ring gear for runout. Measure and compare backlash of EVERY GEAR tooth on the ring gear. Difference from the lowest and highest backlash reading greater than 0.050mm/0.002inch indicates a problem with geometry. When disassembling remove bearing caps with hand tools to "feel" if some bolt has loosened and thus contributed for the current problem. Backlash/freeplay is needed because gears expand from heat but you still need the extreme pressure oil to be able to lubricate between the gears without separating from the face of the gears like if the backlash becomes 0. Too much backlash creates noises, and latter - vibrations if not addressed. If changing PINION BEARINGS you must take in account "pinion dept" if you're not setting the pinion depth to factory spec. Measure the current pinion depth(that is if you know for sure THIS IS the correct depth, otherwise you risk having to redo the whole thing again if the final pattern check directs a change of pinion depth either inwards or outwards.) It can be done with special tools , or straightedge and depth micrometer/vernier caliper. You need to know this because even if you keep the current shims , the new bearing could be different thickness because of manufacturing tolerances/variations. So if the new bearings are thicker you'll need to replace the current shim/shims with thinner and vice versa. Another tip - always set the preload of the bearings at the higher spec given. Over time , while the bearings is wearing , the preload will only get loose and looser. A tip recommended from manufacturers of specialty drivetrain aftermarket parts - they recommend if removing/installing the ring gear from differential case always to use red loctite on the bolts and tighten the bolts in 2 stages. First stage is half the specified torque .This is because sudden excessive torque could distort the ring gear flatness just like when installing cylinder heads. Another tip from aftermarket performance parts manufacturers : painting all the gears during contact pattern check/test is recommended.Then install the axle shafts and brakes. Partially apply the brakes using adjustable brake pedal depressor tool until it takes about 70nm to rotate the pinion flange. Rotate the the flange 3 or 4 times forward and backward. If you think this is not necessary , here's the explanation i got on "Pirate 4x4" forums, when i asked why is this needed. Because not every pinion-ring gearset is "nonhunting" type. Nonhunting means every pinion tooth got it's mated tooths on the ring gear. Every rotation of the gearset the same pinion tooth contacts the same ring gear teeths. If the set is "hunting" or "partial nonhuntin" the pinion teeths contact different teeths at the ring gear than the ones contacted the previous rotation of the gearset. Also this technique can help catch if there's geometry problem with the gears , that is if you before that didn't measure backlash at ALL the teeth or didn't test for ring gear runout or pinion gear shaft runout. Final tip: when changing the oil , after draining all the oil from the housing , it's recommended to lift the car first from the left and then fromthe right. That way oil that's left in the left/right tubeing would drain also. And finally my unnecessary opinion on this FORD 8.8 differential. Judging by the info from 23:30 , this unit was "repaired" before. They setup the the preloads and backlash okay, but messed up the pinion depth because they changed the pinion bearings with a thicker/thinner ones, while keeping the factory shim. Finally they run a contact pattern check , saw something is wrong , call it a day because whether or not the pattern check, they knew the preloads and backlash were okay AND otherwise they needed to redo everyting from the start again(if they even knew, what they must do to fix the problem).
Nice presentation! Spinning the bearings dry was a thing I was taught not to do. A light oil(motor oil) is what I use sparringly.
my carrier unit on the left Drivers driver side was disintegrated the bearing got into the ring gear and ruined the ring gear. tiny metal shavings everywhere, I spent many hours just cleaning the differential housing, I used two cans of Gunk engine degreaser, two cans of brake cleaner, it still had tiny shavings, finally I borrowed my neighbors pressure washer, always measure your parts, the solid pinion spacer and shims I ordered on Ebay was too small, I had to order a new one on Amazon, also the pinion seal that came with the rebuild kit was wrong, I ordered Another one Timken on Amazon that is the correct one, I'm doing the final assembly now, this is a hell of a lot of work, my first time doing one. Thank for the video, it has helped tremendously.
I'm enjoying more this videos than my school classes
Best video on youtube about diff thanks mate
A Master class!
Great video! Do just measure your used/ set up crush sleeve to get the measurement for the solid pinion spacer + shims?
Exactly, that gave me my starting point.
Thank you, I am going to keep your video next to me during assembly so I don’t forget anything.
Wow haven't finished seeing the video but it's Super awesome and interesting here I go to finish it
Simply excellent video!
I enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work. 8.8's seem to eat the races like this.
Regarding the pinion bearing mismatch...normally Ford axles aren't painted from the factory. They are bare steel and usually surface rust quickly. I'd wager that the axle/gears/differential has been worked on before your ownership by someone with either substandard experience or tools and didn't get things back together correctly in the field. They may have inexplicably partially disassembled the axle to paint it.
Both Koyo and Timken have excellent quality controls, neither should have failed if they were installed correctly and the fluid was changed often. Severe usage would negate all of the above - being a Mustang, that's always going to be a factor.
Superb video explaining all I wanted to know. Thank you for doing this.
Hello friend, I follow you from Chile, ask what is the best paint to protect metal from corrosion and humidity, please?
What's up bro. I see you around town. ✌️
Doin the Lords work. Keep on teachin em!
very thorough, hope to apply it to my 8.5 chevy
what ive done with DANA is use a beach towel on the ring. rotate the pinion and the compression of the gears sucking that towel in will press the carrier out of the pumpkin. does that work on here too id think?
Great video. Easy to understand.
Changed tire size and the 4:10 reduced to 3.72 and a 9% split between speedo and GPS. Lost the pinion bearing so made the switch to 4:56 which brought transmission back to 4:10.
Wasn’t too difficult but was time consuming to get it right.
When you purchase Timken bearings you will find Koyo bearings in the packet many times... There is also this... "Koyo Bearings USA LLC Formed Following JTEKT Acquisition of Timken Division."
nice work. loving you're videos.
Excellent video
Great Job. Thanks so much!
Draw a Pic on cardboard of the diff. Poke holes in the cardboard and bolt the caps to the diagram
Thank you ❤ a great video !
i appreciate this, brother!
I see what looks like arrows (triangles) on the caps. Wouldn't that be enough to get them back in the same place?
In regards to the Koyo bearing, I have ordered Timken bearings and received Koyo. However, still odd if truly a factory setup.
When you heated the ring gear and dropped it on - do you have to align the bolt holes yourself, or is there some sort of key to align it?
I've got a 2005 GMC Yukon 5.3L 4x4 with 234,000 miles, all stock. It makes a clicking noise that I can usually only hear with windows down and driving next to something like a wall or tall curb.
It only does it when applying gas though, and in a forward gear.
I have examined the u-joints and driveshafts and they look fine and tight. It does look original.
Do you think this is the issue? Thanks!
Excellent video. I subscribed to your channel. What are your thoughts on the crush sleeve eliminators? EDIT Sorry, I commented before finishing the video. I was trying to decide on ordering extra crush sleeves or the eliminator. Again, excellent video. Thanks!
Do you think the temp could contributed to the aftermarket cover?
The factory cover allows movement of the fluid through the gears.
I saw the Banks guys talking about this.
But yea, you’re doing a great job.
This is an OEM 2013 Boss 302/Gt500 diff cover. It's radiused just like a stock stamped piece.
Extremely good video I have done several rear end. Just curious what press is in your shop
Just a harbor freight 20 ton.
One tip: I wouldn't use an impact gun at all during the installation of the pinon crush sleave.
Hey, if my goal is install a LSD, which steps of these can be skipped? I wouldnt need to take out the pinion, or would i? Because maybe the pinion depth has to be adjusted with the new diff carrier. Im not sure how easier would be or if its exactly the same process as changing gear ratios.
Make sure you're running a limited slip additive in that differential.
I need to do my 07 mustang sometime. The previous owner put 4:11 gears in it and it has excessive backlash. When i replaced the clutch i noticed when i took the driveshaft off the pinion had a couple of degrees of movement. I can never just idle in a gear because it bucks back and forth bad. Its still driveable it's just really annoying in traffic.
Thank you, tomorrow I'm going to be tackling ring n pinion swaps on a jeep Rubicon w dana 44 front n rear, ive watched nearly a dozen videos to gather as many tips n tricks as possible so it'll go as smoothly as possible, I wish I had seen this one a week or more ago I probably would have ordered a set of the solid pinion spacers, but I did order a extra set of crush sleeves in case I over torque I can stay on track, I have to ask the reasoning w using the crush sleeve for setup and pattern reading? Other videos I've watched setup is done w no sleeve, than install crush sleeve at Final assembly? Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge
My reasoning was 2 fold:
1 demonstrate how to set up a crush sleeve on video
2 once the pinion had the correct preload with the crush sleeve, that gave me a starting point for shim thickness.
Regarding the crush bearing vs the solid.
Is it just a matter of measuring the crush thickness and adding shims to the solid to match??
Exactly, that gives you a starting point. You make adjustments from there.
If the tools are cheaper than taking it to a shop then I would consider doing this myself. Not much point in buying these tools if they're not likely to be used again for several years. And I don't plan on starting a business to pay for the tools.
Would it be better to get a reman axle?
I am going to attempt this fort the first time with my 99 XJ. Garage quoted me over 2k to do this. A few questions, do I have to replace the ring and pinion or can I just do the bearings? This might be a stupid question but do I need new crush sleeves every time I tighten the pinion nut?
New crush sleeve every time. You can reuse the ring and pinion and just do bearings but be aware that if the R&P is the source of noise, it's still going to be noisy when the axle is rebuilt with new bearings. Once you have a wear pattern established in a R&P you can't change it. You should be able to reuse your stock shims for everything.
Which parts are better? Motive Gear Performance or Ford Racing?
Ford.
If all I am doing is replacing a carrier bearing, do I need to worry about all of those adjustments?
I have same question
How about a 7.5 Ford rear end is it the same
Where can I find the preload specs and backlash specs for a 1994 mustang cobra?
8.25”, 3.55 ratio, changed our crushed sleeve, everything is within spec, axels, splines, backlash, drive shaft joint, etc couldn’t be better for used …but I get a clunk in axels/rear tires when accelerating/decellerating, but not when shifting as is with too much backlash …driving me nuts …everything is within spec so ya 🤦🏼
Now that it is April was it quiet when you test drove it? Very interested in that thank you!
I've got about 110 miles on it so far. No issues yet. I've touched 65mph once or twice but, I'm still early on the break in.
Ford will do anything....anything you can possibly imagine. Have you ever seen a Mexican Ford Truck? lol
Any idea why it failed with such LOW miles on it?
If it was build on a Friday or Monday 16 might have been that days normal.
You're making this wayyy to hard..You did the set up bearings correctly but that crush sleeve debacle smh.. I install the pinion with the set up front and rear pinion bearings installed but Without the crush sleeve then tighten the the pinion nut until all the slop is gone then install the ring gear and check the backlash/adjust if necessary then finally check the pattern to see if the pinion depth is correct..when correct pull apart then assemble with new bearings /with new crush sleeve..the thought of having to crush that crush sleeve 3 or 4 times in a row gives me chills..especially if doing it on the ground under the car..
Is the time and labor really worth rebuilding this over just swapping it with a junkyard diff for my "spirited daily driver"?
It just depends. Do you want a different gear ratio, stronger axles, or a non factory LSD. Then, this is your only option.
Gotcha, appreciate man!
oh man to bad you didn't show us your last and final pattern .
35:48 - so you just put the pinion and no grease apply to the bearings?
I wouldn't use a grease. A light oil works fine.
@@RepairGeek Ok thanks ,i just ask because soon i will perform the same job you perform and you know if you apply any lubricant to the bearing before install the pinion i think i will get a different reading when use the Beam Torque... i mean getting different measures with Beam Torque with or without oil in the pinion bearing.
What type of socket are you using for the bearing install on the press?
Axle nut impact sockets.
What brand is the differential cover?
amzn.to/3UdG92T
Im only 10 min into video , you may address it later but how many miles on diff ?
About 80k. I found some unusual things inside.
I’m in Thompson oh
You didn’t show the gear pattern…
Check the gear pattern video. Gear patterns are an 15+ minute discussion alone.
Geeze, where you live and how much you charge to do this?