How to: Rebuild a GM 8.5in 10 bolt rear differential - Start to finish rear end rebuild in 7 min!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ค. 2024
- TH-cam needed a good GM 10 bolt rebuild video that wasn't 30 or 40 min long.. or 2 hours like some videos on here. So here ya go! I run through the process quickly with lots of detail. The hardest part of the process was not knowing fully what I was getting into. This video would have saved me time and money wasted on other videos not hitting all the key points and not knowing all the parts I would need leading to trips back and forth to the parts store. All the parts I needed are listed below. Make sure you check the RPO code inside the glove box to know what gear ratio to order. Mine is a 3.73. Drop a comment and let me know what you think or any questions you may have! Don't forget to like and subscribe! Thanks!
Replacement Ring and Pinion
amzn.to/3wVDAcK
Bearing Kit
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....
Pinion Shim Kit
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/...
Carrier shim kit
shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/m...
Ring Gear bolts
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/...
Axle Seal
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/...
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Man, I'm someone with zero knowledge about car assembly but this video was incredibly clear, just watching here I was quickly able to absorb a significant amount of useful information. Good job on the video and thank you for the knowledge boost.
Thank you!
Thank you for going out of your way and make a video to save us some frustration, I looked at so many trash videos before I found yours, and yes they were a waste of time, you nailed it!
Thank you! I appreciate the positive feedback!
I love the no B.S approach to this video. it really is better that a 4 part tutorial like most! Well done
Thank you. Thank was my goal. I appreciate the kind words.
Just the info I needed to complete my '67 Camaro. I've changed ring and pinion before but never knew ho much more I should have done. You Tube wasn't around in 1972. Much appreciated video.. You did a fantastic job of getting to the point. Thanks loads.
No problem. Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks for making this video! Just what I needed to get my grand national back on the road
No problem, glad it helped!
Great video, I'm rebuilding mine next week and will be watching this a lot to get through it. Haha, nice job!
Great video! With a little patience and warmer weather, this video may give me the confidence to undertake the rebuild on my Astro van! Thank you
Thanks for the kind words!
This video is great thanks for making it , loved the idea of set up bearings wish I would’ve thought of that !
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words!
I really appreciate this no BS video. Looking forward to finishing up this 8.5 I'll publish a post when done
Thanks for the kind words!
Nicely done! Clean install! 👍🏼
Thank you Sir!
Almost Rocket Science!
Lol not too bad.
Top notch dude, thanks for doing this, I’m getting ready to the rear on my ‘85 K10 and I’m a little apprehensive about it so I’m sure I’ll be referencing the video a few times, thanks again
No problem! Thanks for the kind words!
Yes sir good video! Helped me a lot on my project
Thanks!
Well done!
Thank you Sir!
That large piece holding thw ring gear just cracked on me today. Im debating repairing my axle or just buying one from a junk yard. But after watching your video that little gauge you were using to adjust the gears is something that was a foreign language. May have to do some more research as that was the main thing indidnt understand. The rest was great. Thank you!
Thanks for the positive feedback. The little gauge is called a dial indicator and I had it mounted on a magnetic arm to hold it in position. The needle goes around the gauge as the probe is pushed in. The needle/display essentially displays how far the probe is moved. It is very accurate and used for measuring very small increments. I used to to measure the .005 inches of required play (backlash) between and pinion gear and ring gear.
And that backlash that you measure is EVERYTHING standing in the way of a rebuild that lasts one year versus 30 years.😄 Very important to get it right. Equally important is the tooth contact patch between the pinion and ring.
I always put grease or sil glide on new seals. Kind of an insurance policy. I would coat the seal then the surface of the axel that is going against the seal. Sil- glide is probably better
I just put some gear oil on it...
helluva job bud.
Thanks!
Very informative video! could you by any chance make a video on how to do a oem drum to disk brake conversion?
Have you ever heard a rear end click only when under load? Or is this likely driveshaft u-joints?
And he did the rebuild outside and in freezing conditions.
While recording and being organized
Thanks for picking up on this! It was not the most enjoyable place to work but is what needed to be done!
I appreciate the kind words!
Very helpful, clear and quick . How long did it take for this rebuild? Could just the pinion been replaced only?
Thanks, the prep work took longer than the actual rebuild. I think it only took me a night once I had everything ready.
I'm no expert but I suppose you "could" replace only the pinion but I would imagine it would be best to replace both the ring and pinion at the same time. In order to replace only the pinion you still have to pull the entire carrier assembly and re-shim everything.
07 chevy suburban 1500 4x4 10 bolt. About to do the same but im only replacing the pinion bearings. Keeping same shimes so as long as everything looks good when i pull it nothing should change when putting back in? Any pointers would be helpful. Tks. Great video
In my amateur opinion, I think everything would be pretty close but I would still check the pattern and backlash.
Im about to try to tackle this with a new master rebuild kit but my main concern is getting the back lash correct.. everything else seems so easy but I don't understand the backlash.
You shim the diff right(take out right add left) to engage the pinion more(less backlash). Do the opppsite to make looser.
When you say you set the rotational drag for the pinion nut to 15lbs/in ( 5:26) are you jusy using a normal torque wrench and tighten/losening the pinion nut until it takes that torque to rotate? Or is it a special tool ill need ? Thank you.
Yes, from how I interoperate you comment I believe you have the correct concept.
The torque on the pinion nut itself if irrelevant when there is a crush sleeve. It take an incredible amount of torque to get the crush ring to crush. The pinion rotates which makes it even harder to get the crush ring to crush. I wasn't able to do it by hand and had to use the big impact. Once it starts to crush and add preload to the pinion bearings, the pinion will start to have a little resistance when you try and spin it. This is when you use the inlb torque wrench. You need a wrench that reads inlbs and gives a live reading like this one on amazon amzn.to/454Odqi .
Remember, you are not reading the torque it takes to get the pinion to turn, you are reading how much drag there is when its turning. That's why you need a wrench that gives a live reading. Also, once the crush ring starts to crush, it tightens easier and goes fast, so be careful not to over tighten it.
@craftzmanchris9859 ok that makes more sense now. I'm wanting It to read 15lbs/in the entire time I'm rotating the pinion, not just what it takes to start the rotation. Thank you for getting back with me so fast.
You should torque the ring gear bolts.
I did, just not on video.
Can i only replace the carrier bearings on my gm 3.23 of a 2017 escalade and leave the pinion and its bearings preload alone?
I am not an expert I think you could. You would want to make sure you return the shims on either side of the carrier assembly when you put it back together. I would still do a backlash and pattern check though in case the new bearings are not exactly the same.
I saw the chunk out of the pinon gear teeth. Was this determinable while driving?
It was not detrimental. It had sort of a rhythmic hum while drive. It was only noticeable when there was almost no tension on the driveline.
This is a great video, but I have no confidence in myself to do this. I hate breaking stuff, and screwing up. I'm just gonna take my rear end to the shop...🤷🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️
Thanks!
Hey man, any idea why my axles don't go in all the way? I pulled the pin, but my axles only move in a small amount and I can't get to the c clips.
Did you have someone pushing in the axle in while trying to get the clips? Those magnet reach thing will help with help getting into there and getting the c clip easier
I did try having my wife push in on the axles. Turned out I just needed to smack the axle some more with a hammer. Thanks for the reply!@@BillaBong1
I think I might be able to do this. What tool do I need to check back lash?
Dial indicator w/ magnetic base (Amazon has good ones for under $50
^^^^
Damn I do all the work in my car but this looks a little hard
It is a little in depth but with enough motivation it can be done!
what if you go to a lower gear ratio
I believe the process would be the same.
Mercy I wonder what kind of money you saved doing that
Parts can be anywhere from $200 to $600 depending on the quality and performance you like. Labor is easily $600 on that job. That's why many people just buy a completely rebuilt 3rd member assembly because you get a new, painted housing as well for under $1500
That was really well done concise into the point. The only thing that would enhance your video a little more is to give the torque specs as you retighten everything that helps us out when we're trying it ourselves😊
Thank you for the kind words! And noted.
Been doing mechanic work for 4 years, my 98 c1500 has over 400,000 and rolled over once. Needles to say the original rear ends wore out like an old whore, I knew how to pull it apart but now I got what I need for the preloads, THANK YOU