Thanks for the comment. I do enjoy both looks; shiny and new, and well used and cared for. Both are beautiful in their own way. It's fun working with not so valuable pieces because you can do what you want with them guilt free. It was a lot of fun making this guy pretty shiny and new, and maybe one day I'll give it a re-Japaning. Thanks again.
Nice video, can see lots of time went into that restoration! I inherited one of these from a neighbour along with some other planes. On the No 18 the front nut and piece below (the flat piece of metal with a hole in the middle), and the thin piece of metal which you screw back on just before the blade are missing. Just wondered what they are for. Is the thin piece at the back a left and right adjustment for the blade? I might be able to make a new nut for the front out of wood, but can't really see myself making replacements for the other two bits.
Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure based on your description. You can do a web search on "stanley block plane parts" which will lead you to a bunch of diagrams with descriptions of the pieces. The part names vary a bit, but Stanley had diagrams with names and prices so the owner could obtain replacement parts. With that said, I think you're talking about the adjustable throat plate on the front sole of the plane, which is held in place by the front knob, and often has an eccentric lever for fine adjustment. It there's a tiny hole in the top front of the plane, then it's for the eccentric lever. The thin piece you describe I think is the lateral adjustment lever and yes, it's to move the iron left and right to adjust how square the edge of the iron is to the mouth of the plane. With it you can get a deeper cut on one side, or have the iron give an even shave from left to right. With all that said, you can obtain these parts, but if you want to be historically accurate it will take some work, and you may very well spend more than the plane is worth for the pieces. The good news is there''s a ton of these planes out there so the parts are available and many of them are interchangeable from one Stanley plane to another. Another option is to keep an eye out for other partial planes and cobble together a complete one. Of course, you may find during your search a complete one out there for short money. These planes are very capable and a joy to use once you get them going. I use my 220 and 9-1/2 quite often. Sorry for the long winded reply, but I find it kind of fun to do this kind of thing. Good luck and let us know if anything interesting develops.
@@jazbuilding Hey, thanks for your long reply, that's all really helpful! I don't mind about historical accuracy, just keen to get it working again, but not if it takes too much time and money. I thought I might be able to make a new nut out of a piece of hardwood and tap a thread into it. Not sure if I can get it partially working and then use it without the fine adjustments. I'll have a fiddle round. Maybe my one never had a lateral adjustment lever for some reason.
I have a recent video on a Number 15 block plane which is a type 9 where I give some historical details on the various pieces. The 9-1/2 family followed the type study pretty well from the point the various block planes were introduced. The lateral adjustment lever showed up in the late 1880's which was when the Number 18 made it's debut, so I believe they all had one. You can certainly use a plane without it. In my opinion, about 80% of plane tune-up is getting the iron razor sharp, so if you do that your plane will work. Be aware that competitor's planes could have interchangeable parts as well. I have a Sargent block plane with the Stanley lever cap (faked me out, but I didn't pay much for it). Good luck.
@@jazbuilding OK thanks! Seems like you have a lot of knowledge about planes! I think they're interesting in that they are pretty simple things, but it seems knowing the subtleties can make a real difference to how one works and help avoiding tearing the grain.
Thanks for the comment and this could be a series of videos on on its own. The simplest is just a rattle can of black paint. I used that on a #151 spoke shave a while back (I used gloss and have some videos on it). Of course the prep and application are key to a durable finish, and I think that should fit most people's needs if you just want a good looking user plane, and are not trying to "restore" the piece. People say the high heat rattle can black (used for engine parts that get hot, etc) gives a look more like Japanning because it goes on heavier. Others have said that putting a coat of orange shellac over the rattle can black makes it look a bit more like Japanning by adding brown tones. Of course, you can apply real Japan paint, if you want. I've thought of experimenting with true Japanning, but haven't had the time to dive into it. Depending on what you're tying to accomplish. I hope this helps and thanks again.
@@jazbuilding I have run into problem. The plane was apart when I got it. I have cleaned it up and sharpen the blade. I put it back together and I can not lock the blade. I maybe miss something I have the blade then the lever for the angle adjuster. I screwed the keeper screw into the adjustment lever then into the shoe tighter it all down. Then I put the chip breaker on pulled back and pushed down and it did not lock. Maybe I need something like a washer?
@@jazbuilding I figured out what I was doing wrong. This block plane is the best plane I have ever used. I am taking see through curls off . I don't know what year it is but it is old. I am going to complete the restoration and keep it as my user. No I mean my FAVORITE user.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[1/2] เปิดแคมป์หลอนต้อนรับ 2 ตัวพ่อแห่งวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2uPuHYHgwiI/mqdefault.jpg)
Very nice work. I like that you find a happy medium between preservation and restoration. Well done indeed.
Thanks for the comment. I do enjoy both looks; shiny and new, and well used and cared for. Both are beautiful in their own way. It's fun working with not so valuable pieces because you can do what you want with them guilt free. It was a lot of fun making this guy pretty shiny and new, and maybe one day I'll give it a re-Japaning. Thanks again.
Nice video, can see lots of time went into that restoration! I inherited one of these from a neighbour along with some other planes. On the No 18 the front nut and piece below (the flat piece of metal with a hole in the middle), and the thin piece of metal which you screw back on just before the blade are missing. Just wondered what they are for. Is the thin piece at the back a left and right adjustment for the blade? I might be able to make a new nut for the front out of wood, but can't really see myself making replacements for the other two bits.
Thanks for the comment. I'm not sure based on your description. You can do a web search on "stanley block plane parts" which will lead you to a bunch of diagrams with descriptions of the pieces. The part names vary a bit, but Stanley had diagrams with names and prices so the owner could obtain replacement parts. With that said, I think you're talking about the adjustable throat plate on the front sole of the plane, which is held in place by the front knob, and often has an eccentric lever for fine adjustment. It there's a tiny hole in the top front of the plane, then it's for the eccentric lever. The thin piece you describe I think is the lateral adjustment lever and yes, it's to move the iron left and right to adjust how square the edge of the iron is to the mouth of the plane. With it you can get a deeper cut on one side, or have the iron give an even shave from left to right. With all that said, you can obtain these parts, but if you want to be historically accurate it will take some work, and you may very well spend more than the plane is worth for the pieces. The good news is there''s a ton of these planes out there so the parts are available and many of them are interchangeable from one Stanley plane to another. Another option is to keep an eye out for other partial planes and cobble together a complete one. Of course, you may find during your search a complete one out there for short money. These planes are very capable and a joy to use once you get them going. I use my 220 and 9-1/2 quite often. Sorry for the long winded reply, but I find it kind of fun to do this kind of thing. Good luck and let us know if anything interesting develops.
@@jazbuilding Hey, thanks for your long reply, that's all really helpful! I don't mind about historical accuracy, just keen to get it working again, but not if it takes too much time and money. I thought I might be able to make a new nut out of a piece of hardwood and tap a thread into it. Not sure if I can get it partially working and then use it without the fine adjustments. I'll have a fiddle round. Maybe my one never had a lateral adjustment lever for some reason.
I have a recent video on a Number 15 block plane which is a type 9 where I give some historical details on the various pieces. The 9-1/2 family followed the type study pretty well from the point the various block planes were introduced. The lateral adjustment lever showed up in the late 1880's which was when the Number 18 made it's debut, so I believe they all had one. You can certainly use a plane without it. In my opinion, about 80% of plane tune-up is getting the iron razor sharp, so if you do that your plane will work. Be aware that competitor's planes could have interchangeable parts as well. I have a Sargent block plane with the Stanley lever cap (faked me out, but I didn't pay much for it). Good luck.
@@jazbuilding OK thanks! Seems like you have a lot of knowledge about planes! I think they're interesting in that they are pretty simple things, but it seems knowing the subtleties can make a real difference to how one works and help avoiding tearing the grain.
I found one of those. It was in about the same condition. I need to repaint the black what paint do you recommend?
Thanks for the comment and this could be a series of videos on on its own. The simplest is just a rattle can of black paint. I used that on a #151 spoke shave a while back (I used gloss and have some videos on it). Of course the prep and application are key to a durable finish, and I think that should fit most people's needs if you just want a good looking user plane, and are not trying to "restore" the piece. People say the high heat rattle can black (used for engine parts that get hot, etc) gives a look more like Japanning because it goes on heavier. Others have said that putting a coat of orange shellac over the rattle can black makes it look a bit more like Japanning by adding brown tones. Of course, you can apply real Japan paint, if you want. I've thought of experimenting with true Japanning, but haven't had the time to dive into it. Depending on what you're tying to accomplish. I hope this helps and thanks again.
@@jazbuilding I have run into problem.
The plane was apart when I got it. I have cleaned it up and sharpen the blade. I put it back together and I can not lock the blade. I maybe miss something
I have the blade then the lever for the angle adjuster. I screwed the keeper screw into the adjustment lever then into the shoe tighter it all down. Then I put the chip breaker on pulled back and pushed down and it did not lock.
Maybe I need something like a washer?
@@jazbuilding I figured out what I was doing wrong. This block plane is the best plane I have ever used. I am taking see through curls off . I don't know what year it is but it is old. I am going to complete the restoration and keep it as my user. No I mean my FAVORITE user.