Step 1 earned the thumbs up. Usually I wait to comment and like until after the video, but I have this plane and step 1 "remove the plane from the f!@#ing packaging" was so true
It's easy to get the package open, just take a knife along the bottom to front or rear face along the bend all along the entire package width. This creates a door with the package upside down, open the door and pull the plane out. It's that easy but becarefull of any sharp plastic edges!
Good basic information and a no-nonsense approach. I just finished tuning one of those models and found the adjustable mouth plate proud like yours. On removing the plate, I found burrs on the machined ways causing the mouth plate to stand out from the body. Removing those burrs with a fine file brought the mouth plate just about flush with the body. Flattening the sole became a lot easier.
If you want a good platform for flattening on a regular basis, go to a local granite counter contractor. The one near me has a 40 foot dumpster full of scraps many of which are about the size of a kitchen sink for some reason....
Thanks for doing these beginner videos. Not all of us have Honda money so we have to make do with more economical choices. I would love to see you do these types of videos throughout your content. I don't expect the $50 plane to work like a $250 dollar plane, but knowing that it isn't complete garbage makes it worth spending some of that sweat equity to make it usable.
Fun fact, if the prices of the sought after "vintage" block planes of the 1900s were adjusted to today's dollar and all other costs were the same, they would be ~$40.
"I'll start by spilling mineral spirits all over the workbench....". LOL. Been there, got the T-shirt. Love the humor while providing really excellent advice in the video.
I bought this block plane a year ago. It was my first plane ever. All I did was sharpen the blade with sandpaper (300, 600, 1000, 3000) glued to mdf. It has really worked well for me. I guess I should check the flatness of the bottom to get even better results. Thanks for the tip!
A good method to finish the sharpening for a beginner is to get a stick of polishing compound, rub it on a piece of cardboard and give the edge a few pulls across on both sides, it can turn a sharp edge into a shave the hair off your arm sharp
I have the exact same plane and went through the same initial steps to get it flattened and sharpened and I was very impressed with it. It certainly stopped me going out and buying a lie nielsen!
Tuned up both of my vintage Stanley block planes using my stationary belt sander...incredible difference after truing the sole...thanks for the inspiration TWW!
A very timely reminder that I have a relatively-new Stanley block plane collecting dust in a drawer as I save up for that sweet sweet Vertias with PM-V11. Going to fire-up the disc sander and get the Stanley usable in the meantime!
Here, in Brazil, is almost Impossible to buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen without expend a quarter of a popular cara (cars are more expensive here than in US - more taxes). I bought this 12-960 and made all adjustments and sharpening. When you tell it's not like a Major League tool, I can just imagine how Veritas and Lie Nielsen are... They mau be like a dreams, because this one is very Nice for me. Tranks for the video.
This is hilarious. I broke my block plane at the throat just hours ago. First tool I’ve managed to knock off the bench. Serendipitous to find this video in a YT search on this exact block plane! How did you know I needed you to release this exact video at this exact time? 😂
TY, I just bought a 60 1/2 Luban LN clone and it worked nicely out-of-the-box but I think that the "extra mile" is still missing. I will try your method!
I have that exact same plane....and after 6 hrs and probably the best cardio workout I have ever had, I managed to get to sole flat...ended up re-grinding the blade on a water cooled grinder as the ridges in the blade were like a ploughed field!. in the end not too bad a block plane for the price,although my biggest problem was the fact that the throat would not close up anywhere close to the blade...fixed it with some fettling and by making a new adjuster plate for the top front portion. ..Now it is not too bad, but take a look at the throat on yours,and see if it is way away from the blade. great vid, thanks for sharing.
This was my very first plane (inherited). I recently received a 5-times-more-costly Stanley Sweetheart #4. I do not love it 5 times more than the block plane. That little plane is my very good friend.
Ha, I have that plane (and have for maybe 5 years?) and yeah... It was a rough place to start from, but after a lot of tuning, flattening, and sharpening, it's actually a beloved tool now. I use it to tidy all kind of mistakes on a regular basis.
I bought one of those in the mid 70s, as a carpenter. Used it once to plane just a hair off an aluminum storm door. I have a Lie-Nielsen, now, but still use this pretty often. My hand is used to it. And, really, a block plane doesn't need to be so great. If I'm looking for a finished surface, I'll use a bench plane. A block plane just needs to be handy and sharp,
Yes it's a cheap plane, but I have had one of these for 40 years and it gets more use than any other in my shop. Extensive tune up, as described, was required. It's lighter than the $280 ones, and nicer in the hand. I replaced the blade with a Hock, and that made a big difference. Someday I'll figure out how to put a Japanese blade in it.
I bought a Groz plane several years ago that looks identical to this one. I tuned and sharpened it ok. But it tends to explode apart when using it. Maybe I’m not locking it down properly. In the mean time, I purchased a vintage Stanley block plane. It works flawlessly.
the part where you go back and forward with the blade to recreate and knock down the bur is called chasing the bur and is the standard way to break down the bur smaller and smaller without getting higher grits
Great instructions. Do you feel that a 1000 grit stone is good enough for planes and chisels for the casual woodworker or should I try to go to a higher grit? As a non-professional will I notice a difference?
Sharpening is one of those things there higher is better, but with quickly diminishing returns. You can do a heck of a lot with blades honed on 1000 grit. Is 5000 better? Sure! But does that mean 1000 grit is like working with a butter knife? Heck no. So I recommend staying with the 1000 until you see a reason to add another stone to your arsenal.
Got the very same block plane... It's very cheap manufacturing...and often I wonder why I just didn't spend a little more for a better plane. Your video was great..! You really brought that plane to life... I intend to do the same with mine it really was never a performer from day 1. I prefer a hand plane to any electric version, particularly for finishing.. My dad's plane a 12inch classic Stanley is amazing, and remains a memory of him, and what Stanley used to be.... Stanley has changed so much.. Your video really will help to get this working.. Thanks..
The one I have is a pile of garbage. I wasted so many frustrating hours messing with that thing. I tried the WindRiver from Woodcraft and it is a completely different animal. Very easy to setup and adjust. It works like it is supposed to. For the combined money between these two block planes I could have bought one of the premier brands.
Note plans width adjustable throat planes, if you material removal is not parallel to the machined throat guides underneath the throat plate, meaning you sanded more off the front than from the rear and depending were your shoe as positioned full close or full open, when completed and adjusted the throat plate will not be flush to the whole body when repositioning it. This is caused by the new sole not being parrell to the machined throat plate channel guide tracks. To do correctly you need to measure your work at the front and rear to maintain parallel stock removal.
I don't know whether you check these comments after a year, but I've seen other videos where they used a disc sander to flatten a plane's surface. What grit paper do you use to accomplish this?
I have this plane and now see I could make it better (although it's not too bad). I wonder if someone can tell me what angle to put on the bevel for planing end grain? I'm thinking of when you want to clean up a dovetail joint which means planing both end grain and face grain with the same stroke.
Hi, What‘s white stone you found on the box? It was also on my box of sharpening stone but I don’t get what is it, looks like a very aggressive sharpening stone, more like a file...
I bought one of these cheap block planes and after a couple days went to Lee Valley and picked up a good one. Apparently, I should have put a little more effort into that cheap one...
Ive been watching you for years - back when I think you were the only one to learn from come to think about it - My "Woodwhisperer Amazon Whishlist" could give my fiancé a heart attack! Bargin... LOL
What an easy and digestible way to tune it up. Other videos were making me loose faith. bought every piece from your links! I never do that, but wanted to drop a note that your link to the planner has expired
It's interesting that Stanley have apparently managed to (mostly) maintain the quality of this model without it costing too much. Back in the day they didn't come perfect out of the factory either.
How interesting - a certain, once dominant major tool brand that's unable to control quality! I was given one of those as a present around 15 years ago (I'd let slip I wanted a pocket/apron plane). It had exactly the issues you show and more, and some that I'm still tweaking, as they continue to annoy. And here we are, a decade and a half later, and S*****y STILL hasn't fixed some of the basics. I ended up doing just what you did, but also had to fix the rebates for the mouth plate, take the razor sharp edges off the toe (where the rebates are), get the 'frog' flat enough to work, and of course, flatten the sole, a lot. I'm glad that the mouth adjuster on yours works: mine didn't and now has a thick washer underneath the adjustment screw to help. I still haven't sorted the clamp lever for the iron to work properly. Mine was the premium version - same plane but with a pouch to keep it in (with the Velcro on the wrong side of the flap!). I agree that the steel of the iron takes a good edge, and keeps it fairly well. It's by far the best thing about it, and makes the effort expended worthwhile. Probably. But don't you think it's a shame, that whilst these planes could be made far better for pennies in manufacturing, they aren't? How many people have a bad experience starting out in woodwork, simply because they go for a big brand and get cheap nastiness? I know it's fixable, but if I'd acquired it when I started out, I'd have had no clue. And the fact that, 15 years on, the same plane is still sold in the same nasty packaging, with the same design and manufacturing flaws, shows clearly that the big brand concerned isn't interested in users at all. The story of these brands is a sad one - they once cared, and listened to their customers, and were profitable as a consequence. Now they don't. They didn't _lose_ market share to the likes of Quangsheng/Luban/Wood River, they gave it away. I have only one of those Chinese planes, a Boggs-pattern spokeshave, and it's brilliant: it came in a wooden box, with a beautiful and very thick iron, that keeps a superb edge, and it cost about 1/3 of the equivalent from a 'quality' brand (it IS a quality product in its own right!). So where's the campaign to get Woodpeckers to take over S....?
Great video and gives me some hope that I don't have to break the bank on every tool I choose! One question, I don't have a 400/1000, but I do have a 600/1000 do you think that will work or is it too high of a starting grit to sharpen with?
The part that spoke to me was getting it out of the @#$&ing package! Lol just did this with an ace hardware block plane, I was surprised at how well it worked. Obviously it won’t stay wicked shaap like my Lie-Neilson but it’ll get you woodworking on the cheap !
After 1.5hours and hand flatting with 80 grit I've about depleted my elbow grease. Do you know any outlets where I can purchase more please, great video.
I'm the bargain guy, says the guy taping sandpaper to his Powermatic table saw. Great video, opening the @#%# packaging is always one of the toughest parts.
I have this same plane and hate it. I’m struggling so much with it clogging under the point where the tightening screw for the mouth is. So right in middle of the blade. It’s rare that it doesn’t clogged so I have to constantly open the mouth up and pick the clogged wood. Also the knob that pushes the blade out has a huge (1/8”) gap between the knob and the metal that it supposed to move. So while setting up the plane if I push the blade out to far I can’t just turn the knob back and retract it. Because of the gap the knob has to be twisted back 1/8 to pull it back. But then that means the blade would end up 1/8” back once the blade sled has referenced is push side to the adjustment knob. So basically I have to start all over if I push it out farther than I want. Has anyone else had these issues with this plane? And have you found a solution?
Does anyone know of any woodworking facilities or guilds in Illinois? I need an industrial-sized planer and jointer and other equipment like that. Anything helps. Thank you
Step 1 earned the thumbs up. Usually I wait to comment and like until after the video, but I have this plane and step 1 "remove the plane from the f!@#ing packaging" was so true
+1 too good and +1 vote for more of the 'quick and dirty' videos.
I am glad that I'm not the only one going berzerk when seeing molded plastic packaging
It's easy to get the package open, just take a knife along the bottom to front or rear face along the bend all along the entire package width. This creates a door with the package upside down, open the door and pull the plane out. It's that easy but becarefull of any sharp plastic edges!
Removing the plane ........ without spilling blood all over your bench! Your own blood, that is.
Good basic information and a no-nonsense approach.
I just finished tuning one of those models and found the adjustable mouth plate proud like yours. On removing the plate, I found burrs on the machined ways causing the mouth plate to stand out from the body. Removing those burrs with a fine file brought the mouth plate just about flush with the body. Flattening the sole became a lot easier.
“I’m a bargain guy”, said the Woodworker who’s shop is full of Powermatic tools! 😂😂😂. Nice Mark!
...and the wall full of Veritas hand planes! 😁
He is a bargain hunter. He told Powermatic: "You give me the tools for free and I will tell everybody about it."
Festool
It’s a joke guys
@@stephenthibadeau8074 Thanks “captain obvious” 😂👍🏻
If you want a good platform for flattening on a regular basis, go to a local granite counter contractor. The one near me has a 40 foot dumpster full of scraps many of which are about the size of a kitchen sink for some reason....
That's what I use as well. Damn heavy but dead flat
@@scottroy6195I got a 9 x 12 piece from Wood Craft for $70.
Ha!
Thanks for doing these beginner videos. Not all of us have Honda money so we have to make do with more economical choices. I would love to see you do these types of videos throughout your content. I don't expect the $50 plane to work like a $250 dollar plane, but knowing that it isn't complete garbage makes it worth spending some of that sweat equity to make it usable.
Fun fact, if the prices of the sought after "vintage" block planes of the 1900s were adjusted to today's dollar and all other costs were the same, they would be ~$40.
"I'll start by spilling mineral spirits all over the workbench....". LOL. Been there, got the T-shirt. Love the humor while providing really excellent advice in the video.
I bought this block plane a year ago. It was my first plane ever. All I did was sharpen the blade with sandpaper (300, 600, 1000, 3000) glued to mdf. It has really worked well for me. I guess I should check the flatness of the bottom to get even better results. Thanks for the tip!
On end grain, a little alcohol on the surface (or water) will ease planing. I use it to remove really thin shavings for microscope slides.
So glad you went to Workbench con and got all inspired to do beginner woodworking videos, Marc. I sincerely mean that!!
A good method to finish the sharpening for a beginner is to get a stick of polishing compound, rub it on a piece of cardboard and give the edge a few pulls across on both sides, it can turn a sharp edge into a shave the hair off your arm sharp
This guy is funny and should make woodworking videos for a living.
It is my first and only (for now) plane.Thanks for advises! Will check mine too.
Wow, thank you. I have this plane and it has always fought me, I'm going to go do this today and get it working better!
Always get a lot out of your videos! Also I Really appreciate your humor! Just the right amount of unexpected!
I done the exact same process on a old Stanley No.4 and No.5, makes such a difference 👍🏼 great Video Mark 😊
I have the exact same plane and went through the same initial steps to get it flattened and sharpened and I was very impressed with it. It certainly stopped me going out and buying a lie nielsen!
Tuned up both of my vintage Stanley block planes using my stationary belt sander...incredible difference after truing the sole...thanks for the inspiration TWW!
Thank you, many times we choose a path and start making things over complicated and quickly become overwhelming, this isn’t. Best Wishes
I got this exact hand plane, last week. Gonna go try this now.
A very timely reminder that I have a relatively-new Stanley block plane collecting dust in a drawer as I save up for that sweet sweet Vertias with PM-V11. Going to fire-up the disc sander and get the Stanley usable in the meantime!
Thanks for the advice. I am most definitely putting it to use.
Here, in Brazil, is almost Impossible to buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen without expend a quarter of a popular cara (cars are more expensive here than in US - more taxes). I bought this 12-960 and made all adjustments and sharpening. When you tell it's not like a Major League tool, I can just imagine how Veritas and Lie Nielsen are... They mau be like a dreams, because this one is very Nice for me.
Tranks for the video.
This is hilarious. I broke my block plane at the throat just hours ago. First tool I’ve managed to knock off the bench.
Serendipitous to find this video in a YT search on this exact block plane!
How did you know I needed you to release this exact video at this exact time? 😂
TY, I just bought a 60 1/2 Luban LN clone and it worked nicely out-of-the-box but I think that the "extra mile" is still missing. I will try your method!
Had me at the first action line! Those F'n packages. I've hurt myself on those more than anything.
Thanks, I just opened a box and discovered a very inexpensive plane... yep, it needs some love.
I have that exact same plane....and after 6 hrs and probably the best cardio workout I have ever had, I managed to get to sole flat...ended up re-grinding the blade on a water cooled grinder as the ridges in the blade were like a ploughed field!. in the end not too bad a block plane for the price,although my biggest problem was the fact that the throat would not close up anywhere close to the blade...fixed it with some fettling and by making a new adjuster plate for the top front portion. ..Now it is not too bad, but take a look at the throat on yours,and see if it is way away from the blade. great vid, thanks for sharing.
Maybe I lucked out but my throat closes perfectly.
@@woodwhisperer hey probably a dumb question but what wax did you put on it?
Nice to see a low cost plane made to perform well!
This was my very first plane (inherited). I recently received a 5-times-more-costly Stanley Sweetheart #4. I do not love it 5 times more than the block plane. That little plane is my very good friend.
Ha, I have that plane (and have for maybe 5 years?) and yeah... It was a rough place to start from, but after a lot of tuning, flattening, and sharpening, it's actually a beloved tool now. I use it to tidy all kind of mistakes on a regular basis.
Excellent video! I really appreciate these videos that are oriented more toward beginners. They are very helpful.
I bought one of those in the mid 70s, as a carpenter. Used it once to plane just a hair off an aluminum storm door. I have a Lie-Nielsen, now, but still use this pretty often. My hand is used to it. And, really, a block plane doesn't need to be so great. If I'm looking for a finished surface, I'll use a bench plane. A block plane just needs to be handy and sharp,
That "I'm always looking for bargains", line damn near had me spitting coffee out of my nose! 😂
This!!!
I have the same block plane and was also able to get it to function pretty decent after some TLC. Thanks for the video! Much appreciated
Thanks for the vid mate, down to earth advice, to the point!
Yes it's a cheap plane, but I have had one of these for 40 years and it gets more use than any other in my shop. Extensive tune up, as described, was required. It's lighter than the $280 ones, and nicer in the hand. I replaced the blade with a Hock, and that made a big difference. Someday I'll figure out how to put a Japanese blade in it.
Super helpful and user friendly guide. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this beginner video. It was just what I needed!!
Wonderful
I bought a Groz plane several years ago that looks identical to this one. I tuned and sharpened it ok. But it tends to explode apart when using it. Maybe I’m not locking it down properly.
In the mean time, I purchased a vintage Stanley block plane. It works flawlessly.
The f***ing packaging line had me rolling. 😅😅😅
Thanks i have been thinking of getting one of these !
Hmm....the bargain guy...oh right it's Rex the Wood Whisperer by Wright! Great video. Love it.
the part where you go back and forward with the blade to recreate and knock down the bur is called chasing the bur and is the standard way to break down the bur smaller and smaller without getting higher grits
Great instructions. Do you feel that a 1000 grit stone is good enough for planes and chisels for the casual woodworker or should I try to go to a higher grit? As a non-professional will I notice a difference?
Sharpening is one of those things there higher is better, but with quickly diminishing returns. You can do a heck of a lot with blades honed on 1000 grit. Is 5000 better? Sure! But does that mean 1000 grit is like working with a butter knife? Heck no. So I recommend staying with the 1000 until you see a reason to add another stone to your arsenal.
A piece of leather glued to a flat board and some green polishing compound is a hell of a lot cheaper than lots of high grit stones.
For some reason, I have never thought of TWW as a bargain tool shopper . Thanks for the demastation.
Got the very same block plane...
It's very cheap manufacturing...and often I wonder why I just didn't spend a little more for a better plane.
Your video was great..!
You really brought that plane to life...
I intend to do the same with mine it really was never a performer from day 1.
I prefer a hand plane to any electric version, particularly for finishing..
My dad's plane a 12inch classic Stanley is amazing, and remains a memory of him, and what Stanley used to be....
Stanley has changed so much..
Your video really will help to get this working..
Thanks..
Man i just got this exact same block plane (i dont usualy do plane by hand) and was about to do this on it hahaha. Great timing
😊 What is a good starter brand/set to look at.
When the video started, I had to wonder if this was inspired by April Fool's Day. But after watching it, it was just a good video.
The one I have is a pile of garbage. I wasted so many frustrating hours messing with that thing. I tried the WindRiver from Woodcraft and it is a completely different animal. Very easy to setup and adjust. It works like it is supposed to. For the combined money between these two block planes I could have bought one of the premier brands.
Note plans width adjustable throat planes, if you material removal is not parallel to the machined throat guides underneath the throat plate, meaning you sanded more off the front than from the rear and depending were your shoe as positioned full close or full open, when completed and adjusted the throat plate will not be flush to the whole body when repositioning it. This is caused by the new sole not being parrell to the machined throat plate channel guide tracks. To do correctly you need to measure your work at the front and rear to maintain parallel stock removal.
great video
Thank you the Bargain Whisperer :P
Thanks for the helpful video, Marc! Ditto the packaging woes for the Freud router bits too. Tin snips and leather gloves, anybody? 😂
Education through sarcasm is something I can relate to. Thanks for the laugh.
At 0:21 I stopped and liked the video... ‘nuff said! 😂
I don't know whether you check these comments after a year, but I've seen other videos where they used a disc sander to flatten a plane's surface. What grit paper do you use to accomplish this?
Would you recommend going to a more corse grit if the 220 wasn't working like in the video and you didn't have a powered sander?
Yes.
Yes
@@woodwhisperer ok, just for an idea, what grit would you consider if you were to do this video over again and have to flatten by hand?
@@chadgreen100 60 or 80 is good!
120 max... otherwise your arms will fall off before you get this thing flat.
Sure, if I had a cheap block plane, I could sharpen a cheap block plane too 😀
I feel like this joke probably went over people’s heads.
I use mineral sprites (paint thinner) on the wet/dry sandpaper instead of water to prevent rust.
@@johncoops6897. I usually use the paint thinner outside or have garage door open and fans blow air out.
thanks, appreciated
I have this plane and now see I could make it better (although it's not too bad). I wonder if someone can tell me what angle to put on the bevel for planing end grain? I'm thinking of when you want to clean up a dovetail joint which means planing both end grain and face grain with the same stroke.
Files are coarser than any sand paper. Use a reference surface, smeared with Dykem Hispot and go at it.
Hi, What‘s white stone you found on the box? It was also on my box of sharpening stone but I don’t get what is it, looks like a very aggressive sharpening stone, more like a file...
I bought one of these cheap block planes and after a couple days went to Lee Valley and picked up a good one. Apparently, I should have put a little more effort into that cheap one...
Ive been watching you for years - back when I think you were the only one to learn from come to think about it - My "Woodwhisperer Amazon Whishlist" could give my fiancé a heart attack! Bargin... LOL
The first minute or so of this was your funniest work.
I couldn't believe what I was hearing... oh... sarcasm. Nice
What an easy and digestible way to tune it up. Other videos were making me loose faith. bought every piece from your links! I never do that, but wanted to drop a note that your link to the planner has expired
It's interesting that Stanley have apparently managed to (mostly) maintain the quality of this model without it costing too much. Back in the day they didn't come perfect out of the factory either.
"I'm the bargain guy..." :D
So shannon of you
I have a #4 jack plane from harbor freight. Can I make it a good plane or am I dumb for getting it?
How interesting - a certain, once dominant major tool brand that's unable to control quality!
I was given one of those as a present around 15 years ago (I'd let slip I wanted a pocket/apron plane). It had exactly the issues you show and more, and some that I'm still tweaking, as they continue to annoy. And here we are, a decade and a half later, and S*****y STILL hasn't fixed some of the basics.
I ended up doing just what you did, but also had to fix the rebates for the mouth plate, take the razor sharp edges off the toe (where the rebates are), get the 'frog' flat enough to work, and of course, flatten the sole, a lot.
I'm glad that the mouth adjuster on yours works: mine didn't and now has a thick washer underneath the adjustment screw to help. I still haven't sorted the clamp lever for the iron to work properly.
Mine was the premium version - same plane but with a pouch to keep it in (with the Velcro on the wrong side of the flap!).
I agree that the steel of the iron takes a good edge, and keeps it fairly well. It's by far the best thing about it, and makes the effort expended worthwhile. Probably.
But don't you think it's a shame, that whilst these planes could be made far better for pennies in manufacturing, they aren't? How many people have a bad experience starting out in woodwork, simply because they go for a big brand and get cheap nastiness? I know it's fixable, but if I'd acquired it when I started out, I'd have had no clue.
And the fact that, 15 years on, the same plane is still sold in the same nasty packaging, with the same design and manufacturing flaws, shows clearly that the big brand concerned isn't interested in users at all.
The story of these brands is a sad one - they once cared, and listened to their customers, and were profitable as a consequence. Now they don't. They didn't _lose_ market share to the likes of Quangsheng/Luban/Wood River, they gave it away.
I have only one of those Chinese planes, a Boggs-pattern spokeshave, and it's brilliant: it came in a wooden box, with a beautiful and very thick iron, that keeps a superb edge, and it cost about 1/3 of the equivalent from a 'quality' brand (it IS a quality product in its own right!).
So where's the campaign to get Woodpeckers to take over S....?
Dude it's a low-end $40 block plane. They've always been crap. "Ye Olden Days" only exist in your mind.
I actually LOL'd at the "if there's one thing i'm known for is inexpensive tools" haha - but good video - excited to see some of the noob tutorials
What grit are the waterstones? Do you have a link?
Thanks for the great video. What type of wax do you use on your tools?
Renaissance Wax. It's not cheap but a little bit goes a long way. amzn.to/2PxjNdN
Great video and gives me some hope that I don't have to break the bank on every tool I choose! One question, I don't have a 400/1000, but I do have a 600/1000 do you think that will work or is it too high of a starting grit to sharpen with?
Just takes longer is all.
..."I'm the bargain guy"... 😂😁
I gave a thumbs up and will tell u all the things your doing wrong so u feel like Shannon is watching you
He already texted me this morning with a list. 🤷🏻♂️
@@woodwhisperer lol!!!
@@woodwhisperer I totally want to see that list. Lol
I guess I'll give my Orange Box special another go at cleaning it up.
Hey, before there were "premium plane's " that was the model everyone had
Do you use the same wax on your table saw?
start with 80 grit! Always start with 80 grit on brand new inexpensive planes.
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Too bad the shipping to Brazil is 300 dollars! 😳
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I realize that shipping costs are high. I read that quite a bit on other channels at well. Are there not "local" suppliers of tools in Brazil?
@@dwightl5863 There are, but you don't find much stuff around here. You know? 😕
@@MCsCreations I'm sorry to hear that. Yes I'm spoiled here in the US. Aren't there equivalents to Amazon where shipping would be reasonable?
Can you use a Mira to sand it flat? ;)
Mine is called the $3 still sharp Flea Market specal!
Why do you have to fix my perspective? Great video.
The part that spoke to me was getting it out of the @#$&ing package! Lol just did this with an ace hardware block plane, I was surprised at how well it worked. Obviously it won’t stay wicked shaap like my Lie-Neilson but it’ll get you woodworking on the cheap !
After 1.5hours and hand flatting with 80 grit I've about depleted my elbow grease. Do you know any outlets where I can purchase more please, great video.
Do you strop? I don’t mean have a strop I mean strop your blades on leather? Just curious as to your opinion re stropping.
I like the mayor goldie wilson poster. Progress always was his middle name.
I love stainly tools...
I'm the bargain guy, says the guy taping sandpaper to his Powermatic table saw. Great video, opening the @#%# packaging is always one of the toughest parts.
I have this same plane and hate it. I’m struggling so much with it clogging under the point where the tightening screw for the mouth is. So right in middle of the blade. It’s rare that it doesn’t clogged so I have to constantly open the mouth up and pick the clogged wood.
Also the knob that pushes the blade out has a huge (1/8”) gap between the knob and the metal that it supposed to move. So while setting up the plane if I push the blade out to far I can’t just turn the knob back and retract it. Because of the gap the knob has to be twisted back 1/8 to pull it back. But then that means the blade would end up 1/8” back once the blade sled has referenced is push side to the adjustment knob. So basically I have to start all over if I push it out farther than I want.
Has anyone else had these issues with this plane? And have you found a solution?
what kind of wax do you use?
Renaissance Wax. Expensive but lasts a very long time.
Does anyone know of any woodworking facilities or guilds in Illinois? I need an industrial-sized planer and jointer and other equipment like that. Anything helps. Thank you
"If there is one thing im known for its inexpencive tools" said while standing surrounded by 100 grand worth of powermatic tools
02:45 window cleaner shouldn’t rust anything and works as well as water.
What wax are u using to protect from rust?
Renaissance Wax. It's not cheap but a little bit goes a long way. amzn.to/2PxjNdN