$40 Block Plane | Tune-up & Sharpening
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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A block plane is a simple and fundamental woodworking tool. I think it's probably the first hand plane most of us purchase when we're just getting started. Unfortunately, unless you spend $100-$200, the plane will not come prepared for peak performance. With some time, a little sandpaper, a sharpening stone and some sweat equity, you should be able to get more performance out of just about any block plane. In this video, I took a brand new Stanley Low Angle Block Plane and gave it a little love. The end results looks better, feels better, and cuts better and that's about all we can ask out of a $40 block plane.
Stuff I Used:
Stanley Low Angle Block Plane - amzn.to/3d7y3Ss
Sharp Pebble 2-Sided Sharpening Stone - amzn.to/3w2pnFG
Honing Guide - amzn.to/3lVXcDu
Renaissance Wax. It's not cheap but a little bit goes a long way. amzn.to/2PxjNdN
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“I’m a bargain guy”, said the Woodworker who’s shop is full of Powermatic tools! 😂😂😂. Nice Mark!
...and the wall full of Veritas hand planes! 😁
He is a bargain hunter. He told Powermatic: "You give me the tools for free and I will tell everybody about it."
Festool
It’s a joke guys
@@stephenthibadeau8074 Thanks “captain obvious” 😂👍🏻
Step 1 earned the thumbs up. Usually I wait to comment and like until after the video, but I have this plane and step 1 "remove the plane from the f!@#ing packaging" was so true
+1 too good and +1 vote for more of the 'quick and dirty' videos.
I am glad that I'm not the only one going berzerk when seeing molded plastic packaging
It's easy to get the package open, just take a knife along the bottom to front or rear face along the bend all along the entire package width. This creates a door with the package upside down, open the door and pull the plane out. It's that easy but becarefull of any sharp plastic edges!
Removing the plane ........ without spilling blood all over your bench! Your own blood, that is.
If you want a good platform for flattening on a regular basis, go to a local granite counter contractor. The one near me has a 40 foot dumpster full of scraps many of which are about the size of a kitchen sink for some reason....
That's what I use as well. Damn heavy but dead flat
@@scottroy6195I got a 9 x 12 piece from Wood Craft for $70.
Ha!
Sure, if I had a cheap block plane, I could sharpen a cheap block plane too 😀
I feel like this joke probably went over people’s heads.
"I'll start by spilling mineral spirits all over the workbench....". LOL. Been there, got the T-shirt. Love the humor while providing really excellent advice in the video.
A good method to finish the sharpening for a beginner is to get a stick of polishing compound, rub it on a piece of cardboard and give the edge a few pulls across on both sides, it can turn a sharp edge into a shave the hair off your arm sharp
Good basic information and a no-nonsense approach.
I just finished tuning one of those models and found the adjustable mouth plate proud like yours. On removing the plate, I found burrs on the machined ways causing the mouth plate to stand out from the body. Removing those burrs with a fine file brought the mouth plate just about flush with the body. Flattening the sole became a lot easier.
On end grain, a little alcohol on the surface (or water) will ease planing. I use it to remove really thin shavings for microscope slides.
I gave a thumbs up and will tell u all the things your doing wrong so u feel like Shannon is watching you
He already texted me this morning with a list. 🤷🏻♂️
@@woodwhisperer lol!!!
@@woodwhisperer I totally want to see that list. Lol
Thanks for doing these beginner videos. Not all of us have Honda money so we have to make do with more economical choices. I would love to see you do these types of videos throughout your content. I don't expect the $50 plane to work like a $250 dollar plane, but knowing that it isn't complete garbage makes it worth spending some of that sweat equity to make it usable.
Fun fact, if the prices of the sought after "vintage" block planes of the 1900s were adjusted to today's dollar and all other costs were the same, they would be ~$40.
A very timely reminder that I have a relatively-new Stanley block plane collecting dust in a drawer as I save up for that sweet sweet Vertias with PM-V11. Going to fire-up the disc sander and get the Stanley usable in the meantime!
"If there is one thing im known for its inexpencive tools" said while standing surrounded by 100 grand worth of powermatic tools
Had me at the first action line! Those F'n packages. I've hurt myself on those more than anything.
The f***ing packaging line had me rolling. 😅😅😅
Thank you the Bargain Whisperer :P
start with 80 grit! Always start with 80 grit on brand new inexpensive planes.
So shannon of you
Way to "shave" a few dollars!
So glad you went to Workbench con and got all inspired to do beginner woodworking videos, Marc. I sincerely mean that!!
I done the exact same process on a old Stanley No.4 and No.5, makes such a difference 👍🏼 great Video Mark 😊
"I'm the bargain guy..." :D
It is my first and only (for now) plane.Thanks for advises! Will check mine too.
This guy is funny and should make woodworking videos for a living.
I have that same plane. Not proud of my brokeness
It works great. Once tuned up I actually think it’s a decent bargain.
Education through sarcasm is something I can relate to. Thanks for the laugh.
Great pointers!
But, why not refurbish a vintage Stanley Block Plane instead - there are LOTS of them on eBay..... and you can skip the hardest part - opening the package. ;)
Mostly because I’d rather plane my corneas with a dull block plane than deal with EBay. 😳
@@woodwhisperer My experience was better. About ten years ago I get a Stanly #4 off eBay that needed a little TLC for $40. Great plane.
At 0:21 I stopped and liked the video... ‘nuff said! 😂
I have it a like for the f-bomb
When starting out a couple of years ago I bought a new Stanley plane. Not knowing any better I tried it out right out of the said f##%*ng package, couldn't get a shaving. When I checked the sole it was actually curved and so rough I could strike matches on it. I checked you tube and they said flatten the sole. I started with 60 grit sand paper, anyway to cut this saga short 3 days later ( about 7 hours ) I gave up, the bastard beat me. I tried to throw it away twice but it kept coming back. Moral of this sad story Don't ever buy a NEW Stanley plane they really are CRAP. Regards Jim UK.
I have the same block plane , after turning it's my plane to go ...
The one I have is a pile of garbage. I wasted so many frustrating hours messing with that thing. I tried the WindRiver from Woodcraft and it is a completely different animal. Very easy to setup and adjust. It works like it is supposed to. For the combined money between these two block planes I could have bought one of the premier brands.
Do you take Dougie with you to JAZZERCIZE??
One look at Duggee and you’ll have your answer. 😂
..."I'm the bargain guy"... 😂😁
When the video started, I had to wonder if this was inspired by April Fool's Day. But after watching it, it was just a good video.
Keep the blade but go buy a Hock blade and sharpen/tune that and you'll always be happy!
Hey, before there were "premium plane's " that was the model everyone had
It's interesting that Stanley have apparently managed to (mostly) maintain the quality of this model without it costing too much. Back in the day they didn't come perfect out of the factory either.
Less expensive tools that will work !
(I also don’t need $ 27.00 watercolor brushes or $57.00 tubes of paint
I would love to be able to afford them, but…
Nothing to do with his woodworking, but I have noticed I have almost the exact same T-shirt collection even his Joe’s Kansas City one.....
I have this same plane and hate it. I’m struggling so much with it clogging under the point where the tightening screw for the mouth is. So right in middle of the blade. It’s rare that it doesn’t clogged so I have to constantly open the mouth up and pick the clogged wood.
Also the knob that pushes the blade out has a huge (1/8”) gap between the knob and the metal that it supposed to move. So while setting up the plane if I push the blade out to far I can’t just turn the knob back and retract it. Because of the gap the knob has to be twisted back 1/8 to pull it back. But then that means the blade would end up 1/8” back once the blade sled has referenced is push side to the adjustment knob. So basically I have to start all over if I push it out farther than I want.
Has anyone else had these issues with this plane? And have you found a solution?
Awesome tips, dude! Thanks a lot! 😃
Too bad the shipping to Brazil is 300 dollars! 😳
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I realize that shipping costs are high. I read that quite a bit on other channels at well. Are there not "local" suppliers of tools in Brazil?
@@dwightl5863 There are, but you don't find much stuff around here. You know? 😕
@@MCsCreations I'm sorry to hear that. Yes I'm spoiled here in the US. Aren't there equivalents to Amazon where shipping would be reasonable?
Wow, thank you. I have this plane and it has always fought me, I'm going to go do this today and get it working better!
I like the mayor goldie wilson poster. Progress always was his middle name.
That "I'm always looking for bargains", line damn near had me spitting coffee out of my nose! 😂
This!!!
I bought one of these cheap block planes and after a couple days went to Lee Valley and picked up a good one. Apparently, I should have put a little more effort into that cheap one...
Thanks for the advice. I am most definitely putting it to use.
Why do you have to fix my perspective? Great video.
Polishing the sole js a big mistake, i tryed it on my no.6 and it makes the plane stick to the wood and takes so much more effort to plane.
Wonderful
I have a #4 jack plane from harbor freight. Can I make it a good plane or am I dumb for getting it?
Replace the blade with one from IBC and it will be even better (the thin blades that the plane comes with likes to chatter).
Files are coarser than any sand paper. Use a reference surface, smeared with Dykem Hispot and go at it.
Great instructions. Do you feel that a 1000 grit stone is good enough for planes and chisels for the casual woodworker or should I try to go to a higher grit? As a non-professional will I notice a difference?
Sharpening is one of those things there higher is better, but with quickly diminishing returns. You can do a heck of a lot with blades honed on 1000 grit. Is 5000 better? Sure! But does that mean 1000 grit is like working with a butter knife? Heck no. So I recommend staying with the 1000 until you see a reason to add another stone to your arsenal.
A piece of leather glued to a flat board and some green polishing compound is a hell of a lot cheaper than lots of high grit stones.
I have that exact same plane....and after 6 hrs and probably the best cardio workout I have ever had, I managed to get to sole flat...ended up re-grinding the blade on a water cooled grinder as the ridges in the blade were like a ploughed field!. in the end not too bad a block plane for the price,although my biggest problem was the fact that the throat would not close up anywhere close to the blade...fixed it with some fettling and by making a new adjuster plate for the top front portion. ..Now it is not too bad, but take a look at the throat on yours,and see if it is way away from the blade. great vid, thanks for sharing.
Maybe I lucked out but my throat closes perfectly.
@@woodwhisperer hey probably a dumb question but what wax did you put on it?
What grit are the waterstones? Do you have a link?
Thanks for the helpful video, Marc! Ditto the packaging woes for the Freud router bits too. Tin snips and leather gloves, anybody? 😂
thanks, appreciated
Would you recommend going to a more corse grit if the 220 wasn't working like in the video and you didn't have a powered sander?
Yes.
Yes
@@woodwhisperer ok, just for an idea, what grit would you consider if you were to do this video over again and have to flatten by hand?
@@chadgreen100 60 or 80 is good!
120 max... otherwise your arms will fall off before you get this thing flat.
what kind of wax do you use?
Renaissance Wax. Expensive but lasts a very long time.
Here, in Brazil, is almost Impossible to buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen without expend a quarter of a popular cara (cars are more expensive here than in US - more taxes). I bought this 12-960 and made all adjustments and sharpening. When you tell it's not like a Major League tool, I can just imagine how Veritas and Lie Nielsen are... They mau be like a dreams, because this one is very Nice for me.
Tranks for the video.
The cool thing about this is that the steps you took to true up this cheap plane are the same steps you’d take on pretty much any plane. And since you have to do all that anyway, why not save some cash? (Said the guy who will probably never be able to afford a Lie-Nielsen plane.)
That's not actually true. If you buy a Veritas or Lie Nielsen, none of this is necessary.
😊 What is a good starter brand/set to look at.
First, you gotta love all the salty, envious clowns complaining about Powermatic tools. Hey boys, don't be broke, ok? Only broke people complain about what other people have.
Second, the number one issue with these bargain tools is the terrible inconsistency in manufacturing. I bought a Stanley Sweetheart block plane where the bed was machined so inaccurately, it was unfixable unless you own a mill.
That says a lot about a company if you have to "fix" their product after you buy it. Good grief, just make it right to begin with.
Then it wouldn't be $40.
For some reason, I have never thought of TWW as a bargain tool shopper . Thanks for the demastation.
Hey the bargain guy, you might also want to check out inexpensive small japanese planes. Got one i paid 14€ delivered, it's about the size of a blockplane, it's pretty damn fine out of the box. I'm pretty sure you can find similar deal in usa. Oh and by the way because i'm sure some will want to bring that in, it works also well pushing it ;c).
I bought one of those in the mid 70s, as a carpenter. Used it once to plane just a hair off an aluminum storm door. I have a Lie-Nielsen, now, but still use this pretty often. My hand is used to it. And, really, a block plane doesn't need to be so great. If I'm looking for a finished surface, I'll use a bench plane. A block plane just needs to be handy and sharp,
Hi, What‘s white stone you found on the box? It was also on my box of sharpening stone but I don’t get what is it, looks like a very aggressive sharpening stone, more like a file...
Does anyone know of any woodworking facilities or guilds in Illinois? I need an industrial-sized planer and jointer and other equipment like that. Anything helps. Thank you
Ive been watching you for years - back when I think you were the only one to learn from come to think about it - My "Woodwhisperer Amazon Whishlist" could give my fiancé a heart attack! Bargin... LOL
Hmm....the bargain guy...oh right it's Rex the Wood Whisperer by Wright! Great video. Love it.
I'm the bargain guy, says the guy taping sandpaper to his Powermatic table saw. Great video, opening the @#%# packaging is always one of the toughest parts.
What an easy and digestible way to tune it up. Other videos were making me loose faith. bought every piece from your links! I never do that, but wanted to drop a note that your link to the planner has expired
After 1.5hours and hand flatting with 80 grit I've about depleted my elbow grease. Do you know any outlets where I can purchase more please, great video.
The part that spoke to me was getting it out of the @#$&ing package! Lol just did this with an ace hardware block plane, I was surprised at how well it worked. Obviously it won’t stay wicked shaap like my Lie-Neilson but it’ll get you woodworking on the cheap !
Thank you, many times we choose a path and start making things over complicated and quickly become overwhelming, this isn’t. Best Wishes
Yes it's a cheap plane, but I have had one of these for 40 years and it gets more use than any other in my shop. Extensive tune up, as described, was required. It's lighter than the $280 ones, and nicer in the hand. I replaced the blade with a Hock, and that made a big difference. Someday I'll figure out how to put a Japanese blade in it.
1:11 "I just want to remove any Greece that's on the surface..."......... haters gonna hate 🤣🤣🤪🤪
This is hilarious. I broke my block plane at the throat just hours ago. First tool I’ve managed to knock off the bench.
Serendipitous to find this video in a YT search on this exact block plane!
How did you know I needed you to release this exact video at this exact time? 😂
I'm used to sharpening my knives and also another type of blades which aren't used for woodworking, so maybe it's different...but I'm confused by the manner which you ran the blade every which way, towards the cut, away, side to side....does the direction it is grinded not matter?
I don't know whether you check these comments after a year, but I've seen other videos where they used a disc sander to flatten a plane's surface. What grit paper do you use to accomplish this?
The first minute or so of this was your funniest work.
I couldn't believe what I was hearing... oh... sarcasm. Nice
Always get a lot out of your videos! Also I Really appreciate your humor! Just the right amount of unexpected!
I bought a Groz plane several years ago that looks identical to this one. I tuned and sharpened it ok. But it tends to explode apart when using it. Maybe I’m not locking it down properly.
In the mean time, I purchased a vintage Stanley block plane. It works flawlessly.
I bought this block plane a year ago. It was my first plane ever. All I did was sharpen the blade with sandpaper (300, 600, 1000, 3000) glued to mdf. It has really worked well for me. I guess I should check the flatness of the bottom to get even better results. Thanks for the tip!
Woodcraft has a honing guide on sale for $9.99 through the end of March 2021. Might be the cheapest thing Woodcraft has ever sold.
"If there is one thing i'm known for its inexpensive tools" say the guy who just bought a mirka sander just to compare with the festool ones he already own ;c)
Tuned up both of my vintage Stanley block planes using my stationary belt sander...incredible difference after truing the sole...thanks for the inspiration TWW!
Note plans width adjustable throat planes, if you material removal is not parallel to the machined throat guides underneath the throat plate, meaning you sanded more off the front than from the rear and depending were your shoe as positioned full close or full open, when completed and adjusted the throat plate will not be flush to the whole body when repositioning it. This is caused by the new sole not being parrell to the machined throat plate channel guide tracks. To do correctly you need to measure your work at the front and rear to maintain parallel stock removal.
Everything I thought I could count on in life is gone. Not sure how to go on with life. Will my dog suddenly like cats? Will Matt stop giggling? Darn covid is turning the world upside down.
I love stainly tools...
This was my very first plane (inherited). I recently received a 5-times-more-costly Stanley Sweetheart #4. I do not love it 5 times more than the block plane. That little plane is my very good friend.
I have this plane and now see I could make it better (although it's not too bad). I wonder if someone can tell me what angle to put on the bevel for planing end grain? I'm thinking of when you want to clean up a dovetail joint which means planing both end grain and face grain with the same stroke.
Ha, I have that plane (and have for maybe 5 years?) and yeah... It was a rough place to start from, but after a lot of tuning, flattening, and sharpening, it's actually a beloved tool now. I use it to tidy all kind of mistakes on a regular basis.
Estou aqui doido pra compra uma block mais aqui no Brasil 🇧🇷 e tudo caro chega uma plaina dessa uns 150 dólares 💵 brincando um dia a de compra uma dessa
Im getting a stanley square from that low angle block plane link ? anyone else or just something broken on my end ? checkd like 4 times and still
the part where you go back and forward with the blade to recreate and knock down the bur is called chasing the bur and is the standard way to break down the bur smaller and smaller without getting higher grits
I actually LOL'd at the "if there's one thing i'm known for is inexpensive tools" haha - but good video - excited to see some of the noob tutorials
Do you strop? I don’t mean have a strop I mean strop your blades on leather? Just curious as to your opinion re stropping.
Thanks, I just opened a box and discovered a very inexpensive plane... yep, it needs some love.