For the counterpart to this video, see my explanation of rear lift options right here: th-cam.com/video/7lsFBFR_mu8/w-d-xo.html And for a full playlist of my modification videos, go here: th-cam.com/channels/XQrfhnybLbMyjHGTcriRCQ.htmlplaylists?view_as=subscriber Thanks!
looking at adding manual hubs, i noticed on both WARN and Mile Marker sites, it doesn't say they fit on an 03' Pathfinder, is there any difference between an 01/02? i have an '03 SE
@@TheJSmooth27 This is the thing I always forget to mention: The fitment of your manual hubs does depend greatly on the wheels that you have, especially if they are OEM wheels. After 2001, with the change of the wheels, the rugged ridge are often the only ones that will fit without buying aftermarket wheels or dremmeling out the center of the wheel
@@208Tyler thanks I'm glad you said that, I'm currently running the stock SE 16" 2003 rim's, I might upgrade to the LE 17" down the road, but alright I will keep that in mind,
Thanks! I wish I had put some more time into the Video and audio quality, but hopefully its still helpful. The second video on the rear lift kit was done a bit better
@208Tyler Hey, you still in Boise? I'm just up the mountain (Idaho City area) and would love to chat with you if you have the time? Looking to lift my 100% stock 01' around 2"ish. Thnx for your time and great Vid my friend!
I’ve got a mechanic here at my house right now who is lifting my R50 with new springs, struts, and manual locking hubs. These videos are so well done that I don’t have to sound like a moron when discussing any aspect of the lift with the mechanic (that’s saying a lot!) You’re a great teacher, Tyler. Thanks for all the great info and for presenting it so well.
@@loganswepston8978 If I’m not mistaken, they dramatically increase the life of CVs if you’re lifted since the CVs won’t be spinning unless you engage the hubs manually. I think they can also improve gas mileage, although since I lifted my Pathy I get much crappier gas mileage than before it was lifted. But, yes… reducing wear and tear is the primary benefit.
@@loganswepston8978 that engine is legend! If the CMP is solid, it’s going to run forever. he’ll get to pass it on to his grandkids They only stopped making them because they make a little bit of noise
Last weekend I popped my driver CV axle out of the inner CV joint while wheeling. I had the 2.5" lift spacer. Saving to buy the 4x4 Parts 2" lift spring.
Great video! Super helpful since there isn't much R50 content that's in video form. I lifted one with my buddy back in November and he went the spacer route in the front, but he probably will change it at some point but no issues so far. Video is on the channel of what we did and i know you saw it haha. Thanks for the great video Tyler!
Hey Tyler have you heard of extended travel CV axles? I started with a 2.5" spacer lift on my 97 QX4 and was worried about the new axle angles. Definitely noticed binding when I would extend the wheel. I didn't know about the coil spring difference at the time but I was really concerned about my cv axles breaking, so I did some research and found that Napa Auto Parts sells an extended travel CV axle for the R50/QX4. They're made by Napa and I've only seen them there. They are supposed to offer 60% more operationg angle range on the inboard joint and up to a full 40mm more travel. They're expensive but I bought a pair and they've been well worth it! No more binding at any angle with my existing 2.5" spacer lift. I haven't ever seen any of the guys in the forums talking about them though so was wondering if you had.
I’ve heard of them lately on Facebook groups. They seem like a nice axle. I’d still recommend springs and/or extended struts over spacers for ride quality and load capacity/handling. Also, remember that if you’re on the 2” spacer, your axles are going at steeper angles and so is everything else - tie rods and ball joints. It’s possible that may shorten the life of some of your front end components
@@208Tyler Yeah I've definitely learned a lot over the last year in having my QX4. Actually just ordered a set of the Ironman coil springs after watching your video...but then after ordering them I saw Jovany's video about how they suck...so I might cancel my order and buy the ARB OME springs instead with a 1" spacer. Thanks for all your videos! I plan on making a video of my build once it's done.
Really liking your videos. I'm sorry for the all the coming questions but I've been bouncing around the internet and I can't seem to get a straight answer for my questions, and I don't have a whole lot of mechanical experience. You seem to know what you're talking about and not just lifting your vehicle for the looks (which doesn't help me when I'm digging through forums). I just picked up an 01 5 speed pathfinder, it's my first car that I'm wanting to do some moderate off-roading with it (probably not rock crawling but more than a simple forestry road). The front struts need to be changed and I need new tires. I'm getting mixed messages on whether or not 30.6" tires will work (265/70/16), but there seems to be a lot more options in this size. A tire technician said it would work from one shop, another shop said they can't guarantee they will fit. Online people say they rub at full wheel lock, others say they don't have a problem (on stock). I see another comment here saying that stock allows 31, where you agree with that sentiment. It won't rub when when I go offroading? If I need new struts, is there a cheaper way to get a spring lift while swapping new struts (for example buying parts to assemble into full struts, 4x4parts sells KYB "struts" that don't appear to have any springs or mounting hardware associated, but say they can be used as a lift, does that mean a spacer lift or coil lift?)? Or do I need to buy the full struts then swap the springs? The 4x4parts website says I need aftermarket wheels with 3.75" of negative backspace if I want to install the springs., I may have missed that part in the video. So if I want to do a spring lift I also need to buy new wheels? If I'm going to do lift I would prefer to do it right to avoid strain on the suspension geometry, and I will be buying manual locking hubs at some point. Would this reduce my worry of just doing a 2" spacer lift? Do you have recommendations for brands/combinations for how to do this? If I have to buy new wheels I might pass for now. I'm also in Canada (Vancouver, BC) so parts prices and availability are sometimes different from what people suggest in videos. Thanks for your great videos!
That's a very well thought out comment. Thanks for asking questions clearly and with good grammar, it shows that you're genuinely interested in getting a good answer. Thank you. I'll address things in the most logical order that I can. #1Rule: Don't buy off 4x4parts unless you cant find it elsewhere. Their shipping is horrendous. Let's start with struts. If you need new struts, I suggest you go on rockauto, order new front struts, and if you want to, you can order all the other mounting hardware as you see fit- mounts, bearings, bellow, etc. You can order as little as the strut assembly (1 piece). When I went through the lift process, all that was replaced were my struts, the mounts and bearings were left alone. Make sure all the pieces are installed correctly, as failing to do so is a great way to have something break. Consult a mechanic if you are unsure what to replace Once you've decided on a strut (any brand will do, KYB tends to be the most popular), feel free to put any R50 coil spring you want in there, lift coil or not. All R50 coils will fit all R50 struts. Also, all R50 Strut spacers fit all R50 Struts. All R50 struts are of similar if not identical travel. There are no "aftermarket" or "lift" struts for R50's, simply get the part number that works for your year R50. Now, once you've decided on a coil spring (and/or a strut spacer) to fit on your new strut, its time to talk tire sizes and backspace. There's essentially one rule of Tire fitment on R50's: get enough backspacing so that the tire doesn't hit the strut. Now, in order for the tire to hit the strut, it has to be a certain height. Tire width also comes into consideration, but that math is a little shakier. From research, here's the backspacing information on tire fitment. 31" or smaller tire (for example a 31x10.5 R15 or 245/75 R16 (30.5x9.4)) generally fit on any backspacing of rim. Tires of height 31-32" (width 11.5 and smaller) will need 3.75 or 4.00 backspacing. Some 265/75/R16 tires will fit on a 4.0 Backspace, I've wheeled with R50's who have that setup. I've also wheeled with R50's that have a 31.6 on 3.75 backspacing. Tires of taller than 32 and of any width are best paired with 3.75 backspacing. At the end of the day, I usually tell people fitting anything taller than a 31" tire to go for 3.75 backspacing, because its a better shot at guaranteed fitment. It's what I run on my 32x11.5 (actual height 31.6) tires. I think you may have misunderstood the 4x4parts statement on backspacing, as it applies to fitting tires, not lift coils. Now, the greatest unknown: What tires rub on what suspension? There's alot to consider here. Throughout the production of the R50, there have been changes to the steering rack throw, rim size and backspacing, strut part numbers, front end weight (engine change), and so on and so forth. Not to mention OEM suspension sags over time. There's a general assertion that an R50 will accept 31's with no lift. This is true in terms of strut clearance, but rubbing the wheel well is hard to say. That will depend on how old your suspension is, what steering rack you have, the backspacing of your rims, and the width of the 31" tire you want to fit. Moral of the story? If you are trying to fit anything that is more than an inch or so above the factory size, be prepared to cut the front or the rear of your front wheel wells, and maybe remove mud flaps as well. But in all honesty, it's very difficult to judge to 100% certainty how a tire will fit without actually trying the tire on. If you're looking at manual hubs to reduce drivetrain wear, note that they won't do anything to mitigate the concerns I express with a spacer lift-breaking CV axles in 4WD with the suspension at full droop. They will save MPG and axle boot wear when unlocked regardless of the lift that you choose. Hope that helps -Tyler
Killer video man. If I’m not mistaken, a strut is kind of like a shock trapped inside a coil. The strut travel distance is determined by the part inside the coil (kind of like a shock). Your video about lifting the back talks about swapping shocks to get more travel. Should one replace the strut assembly inside the coil with the coil or just the coil only?
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! Your conception of a strut is spot on! The strut works much like a shock, except that it also has a coil wrapped around it. I'm not sure if your last sentence is referring to the front or rear suspension, so I'll quickly answer both :). As far as lifting the back, the back is a coil sprung suspension on a solid axle, and does not have struts. Simply putting in a new, longer/stiffer coil will provide lift. Matching longer shocks to your lifted coil will help maximize articulation (sorry if this isn't at all what you were asking about). For the front suspension, you can replace the struts if you want to or if they're too old and fail to collapse/extend properly. There are no brand of struts that function any differently than OEM spec struts - they all have the same travel. KYB struts are very popular. So many people when lifting their pathfinder will put on new struts and stuff their coil springs inside of those new struts. However, any functioning strut will be OK for installing lift springs in, and should produce identical lift results, with the only discrepancies being the ride quality, depending on the brand and freshness of the strut. The struts are sold as whole units (plus mounts, etc) as seen here: amzn.to/37LZbCf Thanks for the comment, let me know if you have any other questions!
Well Tyler i wish iseen this vid before I decided to put my 2 and 1/2 inch spacer lift in.yes i just finished removing them today..starting to snow up here in Edmonton Alberta and cvs definitely weren't happy.vibration like u said on acceleration and clunking when turning.. was a brand new set of cv shafts as well.plan is to take it down to 1.25 on the front and 1.5 rear..was 2.5f 2.5r. ...my cvs should be happier here???plan on near daily use for just regular on street driving in winter.thanks for the vids great help
Awesome video man! Real thorough and damn sure are a big help to the pathfinder community, hate seeing you walk away, but the Toyota Tundra is also an awesome platform! Quick question, Could you pair a spacer and spring lift? And go higher then 2.5 in if it’s a 2wd? There wouldn’t be any cv axcels to mess with, so that snapping wouldn’t be an issue right? Just gotta worry about alignment, that could be fixed with camber bolts? I was just curious because I got 2.5 inch spacers and thinking of getting some 1-2 in coils, I want to pair them together on a 2wd, I just don’t know if I should do AC or OME springs. Totaling 3.5 -4 in of a lift im guessing. And also would I require a SFD?
Do not go above 2-2.5” of total front end lift if you would like a guaranteed alignment, which I would argue you absolutely should. Alignment is an important part of driving characteristics. Going higher than that requires a SFD.
Are the lift springs physically longer than the stock ones? If so, too bad nobody makes spacers that sit above or below the springs themselves instead of at the top of the whole assembly… or would that work in your opinion? Good informative video.
It’s been years since I had an R50. My understanding is that they were a little longer and a little stiffer. No sense in preloading the spring with a spacer inside the strut imo. I’d rather have the stiffer spring for better weight capacity.
I've got a 2002 qx4 and I've put a slightly bigger tire than the OEM 255 65 r17 and the original was a 245 65 r17. I was thinking of just putting 1" spacers to even out the look of the whole vehicle. Would I still need camber bolts? BTW I don't off road.
Great content on your whole page. Sad to see you’re leaving the R50 platform. In regard to lift and suspension, has anyone in your community thought about reaching out to Flatout Suspension? They make custom lift coil overs for pretty much anything upon request and their prices are super reasonable for what they offer.
Their subaru coilovers they offer are anywhere from 1400-4k it looks like. They wouldn't stand a chance in the R50 community. Front springs are easily had for $180, rear springs for $80. On a platform that only costs 2-6k to get into, most people aren't gonna sink 50-100% of their vehicle's value into suspension.
@@208Tyler Oh, it’s definitely not a cheap option but quality rarely is. Price doesn’t stop Subaru owners from dropping $1500 coil overs into a $500 car that they’ve brought back to life.
Certainly. I wouldn’t reach out to them myself, I just don’t see it being worth their R&D costs. I could, of course, be wrong. But most R50 people aren’t on that kind of budget it seems.
I get this question alot in reference to the note on automotive customizer's site- you need to get a wheel with 3.75 backspace in order to run a tire of about 32" or more, but you do not need to modify your wheels in order to lift the vehicle.
Yup, QX4’s have the same 5 linked rear. The shocks mounts change somewhere between pre and post facelift pathfinders, and I assume the QX4’s do the same
Hey Tyler, I donated to you once upon a time for sharing this vid. Would you mind guiding me with a quick opinion, now that I'm finally getting around to fixing my 96 pathfinder suspension? So am I gathering all that you've said in this video and another video, that to keep it stock and still get some good lift without damaging or improvising anything from stock height, all I have to do is get some, KYB struts, and some springs that are slightly longer than stock springs like the OME medium duty? I just want a basic setup and hopefully get an inch of lift as the 31's do rub when turning. I'm not going to be off-roading, just need a reliable rig for travel/survival. What is the cheapest spring that will settle to a good height without sagging? I really don't want to pay OME price but if there's not other option then I will. To recap, shocks, struts and springs without needing a lift but getting some lift out of the basic setup I am NOT opposed to. Your other video you mention 26" rear springs and what length and brand of springs for front? And can KYB struts handle this new 26" length? Then what budget friendly but best on the market shocks? thanks bro.
I would go with dobinsons coils in the front or OME HD, I think the part number is 2928. 31's will still rub at full bump and full lock unless you trim the fender. 26" is a shock length, not a spring length for the rear. Rear springs are usually land rover springs, which I have an (adimittedly very old) video on. th-cam.com/video/7lsFBFR_mu8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jcp-8SdydS4SWJqO Rear shocks are tough. You'll have to call your own shots there. th-cam.com/video/HrAp3dmjL74/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9ZegJ4pmqc7TkJZs
@@208Tyler Thanks for the info brother. I'm starting to work on the rear bushings this week then work on the shocks, struts and springs after I have all the bushings done first. I want to do a process of elimination for all the different wobbles I have. Be blessed.
This is unrelated but do you know how to get the check engine light off for the fuel level sensor , I already replaced the whole fuel pump and level unit from the dealer and the check engine light never turns of so it can not pass new York State inspection any help would be appreciated thank you
It's an option, especially after the front OME spring begins to settle, which can take months or even a year or so. Doing it right after a fresh spring install may not go so well. No guarantees, but it has worked for a lot of other people.
So, merely using 1" of spacer doesn't have much in the way of adverse effects, correct? For LD offroad, I'm leaning towards really good tires in stock size, 1" spacer(s) and install some good undercarriage protection; sliders and plates. Maybe later low lift OME springs and Lokka/Blokka. Sound somewhat reasonable? Thanks!
In the video you explained with a 1in spacer is pretty safe and the cv Axels just barely go out the angle it was designed for. I don’t want to go with 2in spacers because I don’t want the truck that high I jus want 2in all around. And also I don’t want to grenade the axels. I know it’ll be cutting it close but are the 1.5in spacers somewhat safer then the 2in spacers for LD off-roading in a sense?
Because of R50 suspension geometry, 1.5” spacers offer about 2” of lift (and therefore another 2” of suspension travel). 2” spacers offer 2.5” of lift 1” spacers offer about 1” of lift. If you want just 1”, I’d go with the OME HD springs. They’ll ride amazing, and handle load and Offroad conditions superbly. They’ll start at somewhere above 1.5” and slowly settle to 1.25-1.5”. If that ever isn’t enough height for you, then you can of course stack that 1” spacer on them like many other people have. The thing to remember is that spacers are not only wonky with how they affect the suspension, but they’re also just the worse option- poorer handling, no increase in load capacity. If you want height without sacrificing performance I’d opt for spring options both front and rear
Deciding to get the AC 2" lift coils. I saw your R50 build video and was wondering if you got any tire rub when bottomed out? Planning to get 32s as well.
Thinking of buying an R50, I'm planning to do a 2" spring lift and want to put 31" tyres on. I have read online something about needing wheel spacers, is this true as I dont like the idea of wheel spacers and they are also illegal where I live. I am hoping it is as easy as new springs/ struts if need be and new 31s.
Due to the stiffness of the coils I have, as well as my not being a professional alignment mechanic, I had a front shop handle the alignment and installation of my front lift. They basically only used one camber bolt to get it within spec.
@@joeh651 If you buy the 2" lift coils from 4x4parts.com, you will be hard-pressed to compress the coils yourself. A professional wall mount coil compressor is best suited to assemble the strut.
Hey Tyler, would it be possible to use a shock extension post to extend the front struts? Do you think it would let the strut travel further upwards at rest and contribute to top out?
When off roading, it’s common/possible to encounter terrain that is so rutted/steep/sloped that your suspension can’t keep up- you no longer can keep all 4 tires on the ground, and so one or more wheels lift. You quite literally have a tire in the air. Its possible I may have misspoke in this video and implied something other than that, but the intended idea is that your suspension is fully unloaded (full droop) when you put a tire in the air. You can also say that when you have a tire in the air, the suspension is at full droop.
@208tyler I recent just had OME springs installed, both heavy duty in the front and heavy duty in the rear. Problem I’m having is how rough the rear seems to ride. It’s so stiff and very uncomfortable, feels like the truck just jumps in the air going over even a mild bump. I still have OEM rear shocks however and the mechanic said after installing springs that shocks are topped out pretty bad. Is the issue I’m having with how stiff the rear is because of the shocks or perhaps I got springs that were way to stiff and tough.
I would suspect that the shocks are to blame. OME makes high quality springs that ride well, and most people use land rover springs in the rear which are even stiffer, and I don't hear a lot of complaints about those. Definitely try upgrading your shocks, you need new ones regardless if you're lifted
I put a spacer lift in and achieved no lift. The coils just compressed more and offset the spacer. Where can i get the lift springs? Can i use the xj lifted coil springs?
Uhm ok. You can get them lost of places, I don’t recommend the XJ springs. This video has links on the description. Check out this video (and the links in this video description): th-cam.com/video/9AOeEGP-4pU/w-d-xo.html
Question for you. I put land rover HD springs on the rear and it's got this on a huge rake. What size would help level out the front, or should I cut a coil out of the back springs?
So I’m looking to lift my pathfinder just because I like how they look and I want to have fun with it when I can. I’m thinking of going with springs but what would you all recommend? I live in Chicago. So we sometimes get heavy snow. I don’t really see myself doing too much off-roading besides the usuals bumps now and then since there’s not really areas that I know of to go off-road. Any recommendations for me? Also pretty new at all this. I also don’t want to go too high for the same reason but I would like to have bigger tires overall and a good height. This is my daily as well
@@208Tyler i want to start by putting some 31s on it rn at a stock height and Plan on lifting it once I move out and start going on trails. But I just want to give it a simple lift that will be able to do the job. And I do not want spacers just to be on the safer side of breaking stuff. Ideally i would want to give it a 2 inch lift but I would like it to be leveled out in the back. With a 2 inch in front; what do you recommend for the back to level it?
I have a 2001 LE 4wd Pathfinder and I’m looking to make it quite a bit taller. It’s bone stock right now. What problems could I run into if I doubled up a spring lift with a spacer lift? I’m hoping to end with around 4 inches of lift (give or take).
Don’t even try it. Exactly like this and other videos explain, going much above 2” of lift will kill your CV axles and be difficult to align. You will kill the drive ability and reliability of the vehicle by doing that. Going with a moderate lift (and eventually tire size) helps increase the ground clearance of the R50 without sacrificing the things that make it great. If you have to go big, go for a SFD, which I detail and show off in other videos on my channel.
@@208Tyler That’s what I was afraid of. I’m glad I asked before really messing something up. Thanks for the fast and helpful reply, I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions soon enough! I bought this vehicle as a cheap alternative to a 4Runner but now I’m not sure I’ll ever go back. This community seems very tight knit and cool to be a part of.
@208tyler wasup man just had a question in regards to the spacers. I read on forums that when they get a 2.5 front and rear 2.5 that the rear sits a little higher. my question is do I need to offset the spacers meaning get 2.5 for the front and 2 in the rear just to get that even balance lift? Thanks in advance.
If you're going to be using spacers, check where your car sits right now. If it's level, lift both sides equally. If not, adjust accordingly. I do not recommend suspension spacers for lifting the R50 pathfinder.
@@208Tyler appreciate the response man.. I own a 03 qx4 so should I not lift with spacers since the qx4 is pretty much a pathfinder? New to the offroad thing so any help is appreciated..
For this exact shock do I need to extend anything? I thought there was only 1 type of 5100s. I'm doing the lr9449 spring in back and 2in spacer in front on Gabriels. Im 2wd. TIA
@@208Tyler I just got a 2002 pathfinder, 160k miles. Looking to get it lifted. I was going to go with spacers but I now want to just spend the money for lift springs.
Mr Tyler it's been great watching your channel grow. I've had a 1.5 and think a 2.5 inch lift in the rear for over 4 years now. I put new struts and new shocks (KYB #KG4163) up until about 5 months ago everything was pretty smooth. Now the front struts seem too stiff not a whole lot of travel and the rears are bottoming out when I go over big dips. I don't go off road just some dirt roads. I don't really want to change out the spacers if I don't have to. I just want to hear your recommendation for struts and shocks given this set up. If you have a patreon or venmo I would gladly pay for your advice.
Interesting. Here's what I do know about spacer lift setups (which it sounds like you have): the stock springs get worn down and tired, especially on lifted setups, and will cause the suspension to bottom out. The problem's that you're having in the rear suspension are undoubtedly from the abysmal stock spring rate. Swithcing to a dobinson, OME, or Land rover coil (options I explain in some of my newer videos, check the "lift kit" playlists on my channel) will fix that. The shocks aren't responsible for keeping the vehicle from bottoming out, but rather damping vibrations and smaller bumps that you experience during normal driving. But, if the springs can't do their job, the shocks experience more load than they can smooth out, and the ride quality goes to crap. The front is harder to diagnose, so test it out to see what's really giving. On a flat surface, push on the hood of the vehicle, and start bouncing it up and down. At the end of a push (hood all the way down as far as you can press it) let off the hood and watch how the suspension reacts. On a good set of struts, the vehicle should rebound back up once, and pretty much settle down. If it takes more than that for the vehicle to steady itself, your struts are shot. here's a visual @ timestamp 4:17 on this video: th-cam.com/video/eIYPi6-CS1Q/w-d-xo.html If the struts seem fine, AND you feel like the ride is too stiff, that's quite the quandry, especially if all you've done to modify the suspension was a spacer lift several years ago. Perhaps you've changed tire pressure or something small like that. Or the effects of the rear suspension are tricking you into perceiving poor ride in the front. The front has notoriously bad travel- sway bar or not, your front wheels won't have much travel, that's the nature of the IFS platform these are equipped with. I need to setup a more natural payment platform, but for now, if you feel inclined to support the channel here's my Paypal: paypal.me/pathydude?locale.x=en_US My venmo is Tyler-Smith-1264
@@208Tyler sent via venmo.. just to be clear are you saying replace the spring and keeping the spacer or just nix the spacer and go with that spring. I'm looking at the bilstein 5100s aesthetically they are a better look then what I have now.
@@richardrowland8425 Thank you so much! I would ditch the spacer and opt for a lift spring. I have one of the 5100's, as I explain in some of my videos on shocks they're a good option
@@208Tyler my nrc9449s are on the way, went on the land rover site you had posted. From there they had a few options and brands to choose from. I did see the cheaper options but shipping was more than the parts and the lowest was 117. I did a cross reference and found 1 us selling the mid tier brand from that site for 120 with shipping. Think the part number is br1470, the LR site was selling these for around 36£ each on sale plus shipping. I also used your advice on advance auto and was able to buy my mile marker hubs for $26 dollars off.👍 I'm still unsure about the shocks I'm definitely going 26 inch probably the bilstein 33 185552. I believe one of your videos said you have to upgrade a bolt. Do you know the size? Next buy with be the ac coils for the front and probably the kyb g shocks and get the moog k90474 bolts believe I need just 2.. for the aliment. Thanks again for all your help and hard work.
The video talks about the bolt size a little. The method for addressing that depends on your model year R50, they change at the facelift. One of your bolts will be a 12mm mount, but both shock mounts on the bilsteins are 16mm. You have to get a bigger bolt, a smaller bushing, or a metal sleeve that makes up the gap.
I'm looking at buying a lift and want to go with a kit similar to this www.4x4parts.com/i-18981317-pathfinder-suspension-package.html. My R50 stock allows 31s but this 2 inch kit says max of 31s.. Shouldnt I be able to run 33s with the extra 2 inches of clearance
Sorry I didn't see this comment earlier, TH-cam didn't send me a notification. So, a few things. 1. Only go to 4x4parts.com for their lift coils, everything else is overpriced with the shipping they charge. 2. Stock does allow 31's and you can fit 33's on that 2" kit (I have 32's, you'll just have to cut a little more). What you will need is 3.75 backspacing to fit anything larger than a 31" tire, as is explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/LwT4qx3RK9o/w-d-xo.html Let me know if you have any more questions, I'll try and get back to them sooner. Thanks!
For the counterpart to this video, see my explanation of rear lift options right here: th-cam.com/video/7lsFBFR_mu8/w-d-xo.html And for a full playlist of my modification videos, go here: th-cam.com/channels/XQrfhnybLbMyjHGTcriRCQ.htmlplaylists?view_as=subscriber
Thanks!
looking at adding manual hubs, i noticed on both WARN and Mile Marker sites, it doesn't say they fit on an 03' Pathfinder, is there any difference between an 01/02? i have an '03 SE
@@TheJSmooth27 This is the thing I always forget to mention: The fitment of your manual hubs does depend greatly on the wheels that you have, especially if they are OEM wheels. After 2001, with the change of the wheels, the rugged ridge are often the only ones that will fit without buying aftermarket wheels or dremmeling out the center of the wheel
@@208Tyler thanks I'm glad you said that, I'm currently running the stock SE 16" 2003 rim's, I might upgrade to the LE 17" down the road, but alright I will keep that in mind,
@@TheJSmooth27 Definitely, I look forward to hearing about what you go with!
This is going to end up being a valuable resource as our community continues to grow! Thanks for putting the video together.
Thanks! I wish I had put some more time into the Video and audio quality, but hopefully its still helpful. The second video on the rear lift kit was done a bit better
@208Tyler Hey, you still in Boise? I'm just up the mountain (Idaho City area) and would love to chat with you if you have the time? Looking to lift my 100% stock 01' around 2"ish. Thnx for your time and great Vid my friend!
I’ve got a mechanic here at my house right now who is lifting my R50 with new springs, struts, and manual locking hubs. These videos are so well done that I don’t have to sound like a moron when discussing any aspect of the lift with the mechanic (that’s saying a lot!) You’re a great teacher, Tyler. Thanks for all the great info and for presenting it so well.
Glad everything has helped so much! Thanks man
Just bought a 97 and i know its like a year later but, why the manual locking hubs?
@@loganswepston8978 If I’m not mistaken, they dramatically increase the life of CVs if you’re lifted since the CVs won’t be spinning unless you engage the hubs manually. I think they can also improve gas mileage, although since I lifted my Pathy I get much crappier gas mileage than before it was lifted. But, yes… reducing wear and tear is the primary benefit.
@anadverb5063 oh yeah thats pretty sweet, my buddy has a 7.3 powerstroke with locking hubs
@@loganswepston8978 that engine is legend! If the CMP is solid, it’s going to run forever. he’ll get to pass it on to his grandkids They only stopped making them because they make a little bit of noise
Last weekend I popped my driver CV axle out of the inner CV joint while wheeling. I had the 2.5" lift spacer. Saving to buy the 4x4 Parts 2" lift spring.
Shoot that sucks, but I'm sure you'll be much happier with either the OME or the 4x4 Parts (AC) Springs!
Great video! Super helpful since there isn't much R50 content that's in video form. I lifted one with my buddy back in November and he went the spacer route in the front, but he probably will change it at some point but no issues so far. Video is on the channel of what we did and i know you saw it haha. Thanks for the great video Tyler!
Hey Tyler have you heard of extended travel CV axles? I started with a 2.5" spacer lift on my 97 QX4 and was worried about the new axle angles. Definitely noticed binding when I would extend the wheel. I didn't know about the coil spring difference at the time but I was really concerned about my cv axles breaking, so I did some research and found that Napa Auto Parts sells an extended travel CV axle for the R50/QX4. They're made by Napa and I've only seen them there. They are supposed to offer 60% more operationg angle range on the inboard joint and up to a full 40mm more travel. They're expensive but I bought a pair and they've been well worth it! No more binding at any angle with my existing 2.5" spacer lift.
I haven't ever seen any of the guys in the forums talking about them though so was wondering if you had.
I’ve heard of them lately on Facebook groups. They seem like a nice axle. I’d still recommend springs and/or extended struts over spacers for ride quality and load capacity/handling.
Also, remember that if you’re on the 2” spacer, your axles are going at steeper angles and so is everything else - tie rods and ball joints. It’s possible that may shorten the life of some of your front end components
@@208Tyler Yeah I've definitely learned a lot over the last year in having my QX4. Actually just ordered a set of the Ironman coil springs after watching your video...but then after ordering them I saw Jovany's video about how they suck...so I might cancel my order and buy the ARB OME springs instead with a 1" spacer. Thanks for all your videos! I plan on making a video of my build once it's done.
Jovanny’s video is a mess. I suspect the coils work well and won’t give you issues.
Really liking your videos.
I'm sorry for the all the coming questions but I've been bouncing around the internet and I can't seem to get a straight answer for my questions, and I don't have a whole lot of mechanical experience. You seem to know what you're talking about and not just lifting your vehicle for the looks (which doesn't help me when I'm digging through forums).
I just picked up an 01 5 speed pathfinder, it's my first car that I'm wanting to do some moderate off-roading with it (probably not rock crawling but more than a simple forestry road). The front struts need to be changed and I need new tires. I'm getting mixed messages on whether or not 30.6" tires will work (265/70/16), but there seems to be a lot more options in this size. A tire technician said it would work from one shop, another shop said they can't guarantee they will fit. Online people say they rub at full wheel lock, others say they don't have a problem (on stock). I see another comment here saying that stock allows 31, where you agree with that sentiment. It won't rub when when I go offroading?
If I need new struts, is there a cheaper way to get a spring lift while swapping new struts (for example buying parts to assemble into full struts, 4x4parts sells KYB "struts" that don't appear to have any springs or mounting hardware associated, but say they can be used as a lift, does that mean a spacer lift or coil lift?)? Or do I need to buy the full struts then swap the springs? The 4x4parts website says I need aftermarket wheels with 3.75" of negative backspace if I want to install the springs., I may have missed that part in the video. So if I want to do a spring lift I also need to buy new wheels? If I'm going to do lift I would prefer to do it right to avoid strain on the suspension geometry, and I will be buying manual locking hubs at some point. Would this reduce my worry of just doing a 2" spacer lift? Do you have recommendations for brands/combinations for how to do this? If I have to buy new wheels I might pass for now. I'm also in Canada (Vancouver, BC) so parts prices and availability are sometimes different from what people suggest in videos.
Thanks for your great videos!
That's a very well thought out comment. Thanks for asking questions clearly and with good grammar, it shows that you're genuinely interested in getting a good answer. Thank you.
I'll address things in the most logical order that I can.
#1Rule: Don't buy off 4x4parts unless you cant find it elsewhere. Their shipping is horrendous.
Let's start with struts. If you need new struts, I suggest you go on rockauto, order new front struts, and if you want to, you can order all the other mounting hardware as you see fit- mounts, bearings, bellow, etc. You can order as little as the strut assembly (1 piece). When I went through the lift process, all that was replaced were my struts, the mounts and bearings were left alone. Make sure all the pieces are installed correctly, as failing to do so is a great way to have something break. Consult a mechanic if you are unsure what to replace
Once you've decided on a strut (any brand will do, KYB tends to be the most popular), feel free to put any R50 coil spring you want in there, lift coil or not. All R50 coils will fit all R50 struts. Also, all R50 Strut spacers fit all R50 Struts. All R50 struts are of similar if not identical travel. There are no "aftermarket" or "lift" struts for R50's, simply get the part number that works for your year R50.
Now, once you've decided on a coil spring (and/or a strut spacer) to fit on your new strut, its time to talk tire sizes and backspace. There's essentially one rule of Tire fitment on R50's: get enough backspacing so that the tire doesn't hit the strut. Now, in order for the tire to hit the strut, it has to be a certain height. Tire width also comes into consideration, but that math is a little shakier. From research, here's the backspacing information on tire fitment.
31" or smaller tire (for example a 31x10.5 R15 or 245/75 R16 (30.5x9.4)) generally fit on any backspacing of rim.
Tires of height 31-32" (width 11.5 and smaller) will need 3.75 or 4.00 backspacing. Some 265/75/R16 tires will fit on a 4.0 Backspace, I've wheeled with R50's who have that setup. I've also wheeled with R50's that have a 31.6 on 3.75 backspacing.
Tires of taller than 32 and of any width are best paired with 3.75 backspacing.
At the end of the day, I usually tell people fitting anything taller than a 31" tire to go for 3.75 backspacing, because its a better shot at guaranteed fitment. It's what I run on my 32x11.5 (actual height 31.6) tires.
I think you may have misunderstood the 4x4parts statement on backspacing, as it applies to fitting tires, not lift coils.
Now, the greatest unknown: What tires rub on what suspension? There's alot to consider here. Throughout the production of the R50, there have been changes to the steering rack throw, rim size and backspacing, strut part numbers, front end weight (engine change), and so on and so forth. Not to mention OEM suspension sags over time. There's a general assertion that an R50 will accept 31's with no lift. This is true in terms of strut clearance, but rubbing the wheel well is hard to say. That will depend on how old your suspension is, what steering rack you have, the backspacing of your rims, and the width of the 31" tire you want to fit. Moral of the story? If you are trying to fit anything that is more than an inch or so above the factory size, be prepared to cut the front or the rear of your front wheel wells, and maybe remove mud flaps as well. But in all honesty, it's very difficult to judge to 100% certainty how a tire will fit without actually trying the tire on.
If you're looking at manual hubs to reduce drivetrain wear, note that they won't do anything to mitigate the concerns I express with a spacer lift-breaking CV axles in 4WD with the suspension at full droop. They will save MPG and axle boot wear when unlocked regardless of the lift that you choose.
Hope that helps
-Tyler
This is a good explanation of the affects of each “option” thanks.. 👍
Thank you!! Didn't know any of this and it makes so much sense especially the ride being better.
Killer video man. If I’m not mistaken, a strut is kind of like a shock trapped inside a coil. The strut travel distance is determined by the part inside the coil (kind of like a shock). Your video about lifting the back talks about swapping shocks to get more travel. Should one replace the strut assembly inside the coil with the coil or just the coil only?
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback! Your conception of a strut is spot on! The strut works much like a shock, except that it also has a coil wrapped around it. I'm not sure if your last sentence is referring to the front or rear suspension, so I'll quickly answer both :). As far as lifting the back, the back is a coil sprung suspension on a solid axle, and does not have struts. Simply putting in a new, longer/stiffer coil will provide lift. Matching longer shocks to your lifted coil will help maximize articulation (sorry if this isn't at all what you were asking about).
For the front suspension, you can replace the struts if you want to or if they're too old and fail to collapse/extend properly. There are no brand of struts that function any differently than OEM spec struts - they all have the same travel. KYB struts are very popular. So many people when lifting their pathfinder will put on new struts and stuff their coil springs inside of those new struts. However, any functioning strut will be OK for installing lift springs in, and should produce identical lift results, with the only discrepancies being the ride quality, depending on the brand and freshness of the strut. The struts are sold as whole units (plus mounts, etc) as seen here: amzn.to/37LZbCf
Thanks for the comment, let me know if you have any other questions!
Wow great video. I learned a lot. I know spacer lifts were bad for off road but now I know why. Thanks
Well Tyler i wish iseen this vid before I decided to put my 2 and 1/2 inch spacer lift in.yes i just finished removing them today..starting to snow up here in Edmonton Alberta and cvs definitely weren't happy.vibration like u said on acceleration and clunking when turning.. was a brand new set of cv shafts as well.plan is to take it down to 1.25 on the front and 1.5 rear..was 2.5f 2.5r. ...my cvs should be happier here???plan on near daily use for just regular on street driving in winter.thanks for the vids great help
CV’s should be happier at about 1-1.25 inches
@@208Tyler thanks for the quick reply
Good videos,
I have a 2003 R50 I need new suspension and this video help out.
Excellent info, thanks!
Dude thank you so much I own a 2002 pathfinder that I paid $6000 for
Glad the video helped!
Awesome video man! Real thorough and damn sure are a big help to the pathfinder community, hate seeing you walk away, but the Toyota Tundra is also an awesome platform! Quick question, Could you pair a spacer and spring lift? And go higher then 2.5 in if it’s a 2wd? There wouldn’t be any cv axcels to mess with, so that snapping wouldn’t be an issue right? Just gotta worry about alignment, that could be fixed with camber bolts? I was just curious because I got 2.5 inch spacers and thinking of getting some 1-2 in coils, I want to pair them together on a 2wd, I just don’t know if I should do AC or OME springs. Totaling 3.5 -4 in of a lift im guessing. And also would I require a SFD?
Do not go above 2-2.5” of total front end lift if you would like a guaranteed alignment, which I would argue you absolutely should. Alignment is an important part of driving characteristics.
Going higher than that requires a SFD.
@@208Tyler did you get a sfd on your old r50?
No
Yo keep making videos, these are helpful!
Thanks! I’ll keep at it
Hey, great video! Just one question, are you able to run land rover nrc9446 coils in the front aswell?
No, they’re only compatible with the rear
Well done amigo!
Are the lift springs physically longer than the stock ones?
If so, too bad nobody makes spacers that sit above or below the springs themselves instead of at the top of the whole assembly… or would that work in your opinion?
Good informative video.
It’s been years since I had an R50.
My understanding is that they were a little longer and a little stiffer.
No sense in preloading the spring with a spacer inside the strut imo. I’d rather have the stiffer spring for better weight capacity.
I've got a 2002 qx4 and I've put a slightly bigger tire than the OEM 255 65 r17 and the original was a 245 65 r17.
I was thinking of just putting 1" spacers to even out the look of the whole vehicle. Would I still need camber bolts? BTW I don't off road.
Great content on your whole page. Sad to see you’re leaving the R50 platform. In regard to lift and suspension, has anyone in your community thought about reaching out to Flatout Suspension? They make custom lift coil overs for pretty much anything upon request and their prices are super reasonable for what they offer.
Their subaru coilovers they offer are anywhere from 1400-4k it looks like. They wouldn't stand a chance in the R50 community. Front springs are easily had for $180, rear springs for $80. On a platform that only costs 2-6k to get into, most people aren't gonna sink 50-100% of their vehicle's value into suspension.
@@208Tyler Oh, it’s definitely not a cheap option but quality rarely is. Price doesn’t stop Subaru owners from dropping $1500 coil overs into a $500 car that they’ve brought back to life.
Certainly. I wouldn’t reach out to them myself, I just don’t see it being worth their R&D costs. I could, of course, be wrong. But most R50 people aren’t on that kind of budget it seems.
Can you do a diff drop kit like the 4runner for better cv axle angle
You generally can not. No one makes one, though it would be possible to custom fan a drop.
I look the link for the lift kit and say need to buy aftermarket wheels I true ?
I get this question alot in reference to the note on automotive customizer's site- you need to get a wheel with 3.75 backspace in order to run a tire of about 32" or more, but you do not need to modify your wheels in order to lift the vehicle.
quick question, do the r50 pathfinders and qx4's have the suspension setups? a kit for a pathfinder fits on a qx4 no problem?
Yup, QX4’s have the same 5 linked rear. The shocks mounts change somewhere between pre and post facelift pathfinders, and I assume the QX4’s do the same
Hey Tyler, I donated to you once upon a time for sharing this vid.
Would you mind guiding me with a quick opinion, now that I'm finally getting around to fixing my 96 pathfinder suspension?
So am I gathering all that you've said in this video and another video, that to keep it stock and still get some good lift without damaging or improvising anything from stock height, all I have to do is get some,
KYB struts, and some springs that are slightly longer than stock springs like the OME medium duty?
I just want a basic setup and hopefully get an inch of lift as the 31's do rub when turning. I'm not going to be off-roading, just need a reliable rig for travel/survival.
What is the cheapest spring that will settle to a good height without sagging?
I really don't want to pay OME price but if there's not other option then I will.
To recap, shocks, struts and springs without needing a lift but getting some lift out of the basic setup I am NOT opposed to.
Your other video you mention 26" rear springs and what length and brand of springs for front? And can KYB struts handle this new 26" length?
Then what budget friendly but best on the market shocks?
thanks bro.
I would go with dobinsons coils in the front or OME HD, I think the part number is 2928. 31's will still rub at full bump and full lock unless you trim the fender. 26" is a shock length, not a spring length for the rear. Rear springs are usually land rover springs, which I have an (adimittedly very old) video on. th-cam.com/video/7lsFBFR_mu8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=jcp-8SdydS4SWJqO
Rear shocks are tough. You'll have to call your own shots there. th-cam.com/video/HrAp3dmjL74/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9ZegJ4pmqc7TkJZs
@@208Tyler Thanks for the info brother. I'm starting to work on the rear bushings this week then work on the shocks, struts and springs after I have all the bushings done first. I want to do a process of elimination for all the different wobbles I have.
Be blessed.
This is unrelated but do you know how to get the check engine light off for the fuel level sensor , I already replaced the whole fuel pump and level unit from the dealer and the check engine light never turns of so it can not pass new York State inspection any help would be appreciated thank you
I just installed Old Man EMU Strut and spring. So you suggest add 1" Spacer on top is the safe play ? Manu thanks
It's an option, especially after the front OME spring begins to settle, which can take months or even a year or so. Doing it right after a fresh spring install may not go so well. No guarantees, but it has worked for a lot of other people.
Thank you so much
So, merely using 1" of spacer doesn't have much in the way of adverse effects, correct? For LD offroad, I'm leaning towards really good tires in stock size, 1" spacer(s) and install some good undercarriage protection; sliders and plates. Maybe later low lift OME springs and Lokka/Blokka. Sound somewhat reasonable? Thanks!
Just start with the springs. They’re the better option. Pick a good spring and don’t even bother with the spacer headache
In the video you explained with a 1in spacer is pretty safe and the cv Axels just barely go out the angle it was designed for. I don’t want to go with 2in spacers because I don’t want the truck that high I jus want 2in all around. And also I don’t want to grenade the axels. I know it’ll be cutting it close but are the 1.5in spacers somewhat safer then the 2in spacers for LD off-roading in a sense?
Because of R50 suspension geometry, 1.5” spacers offer about 2” of lift (and therefore another 2” of suspension travel). 2” spacers offer 2.5” of lift
1” spacers offer about 1” of lift.
If you want just 1”, I’d go with the OME HD springs. They’ll ride amazing, and handle load and Offroad conditions superbly. They’ll start at somewhere above 1.5” and slowly settle to 1.25-1.5”. If that ever isn’t enough height for you, then you can of course stack that 1” spacer on them like many other people have.
The thing to remember is that spacers are not only wonky with how they affect the suspension, but they’re also just the worse option- poorer handling, no increase in load capacity. If you want height without sacrificing performance I’d opt for spring options both front and rear
Deciding to get the AC 2" lift coils. I saw your R50 build video and was wondering if you got any tire rub when bottomed out? Planning to get 32s as well.
I did, but I also picked a super wide tire. Results will vary
thank you for this video. it is great
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Hey there bud just ordered my springs from 4x4 how long does it normally take to arrive ?
Tro 1ka Hey bud, I honestly can’t remember how long mine took- no more than 1-2 weeks. It wasn’t ridiculous, but it’s also not amazon prime.
Thinking of buying an R50, I'm planning to do a 2" spring lift and want to put 31" tyres on.
I have read online something about needing wheel spacers, is this true as I dont like the idea of wheel spacers and they are also illegal where I live.
I am hoping it is as easy as new springs/ struts if need be and new 31s.
Wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels with 3.76 backspacing are only necessary for fitting tires in excess of 31” tall, like a 32” or a 33” tire
Loving this as a car newb. Thanks. With your r50 what camber adjustments did you have to make? I’m feeling out what to do with my stock 02 Pathy.
Due to the stiffness of the coils I have, as well as my not being a professional alignment mechanic, I had a front shop handle the alignment and installation of my front lift. They basically only used one camber bolt to get it within spec.
Nice. I reckon I have access to facilities and knowledge to do the work and then will have the alignment done for me. Thanks for the reply.
@@joeh651 If you buy the 2" lift coils from 4x4parts.com, you will be hard-pressed to compress the coils yourself. A professional wall mount coil compressor is best suited to assemble the strut.
Good knowledge. I’d rather find that out before getting the truck apart.
Hey Tyler, would it be possible to use a shock extension post to extend the front struts? Do you think it would let the strut travel further upwards at rest and contribute to top out?
Shock extension post…? With the way the struts are designed, I don’t see a solution besides buying aftermarket extended struts.
What do you mean by “tires in the air”?
When off roading, it’s common/possible to encounter terrain that is so rutted/steep/sloped that your suspension can’t keep up- you no longer can keep all 4 tires on the ground, and so one or more wheels lift. You quite literally have a tire in the air. Its possible I may have misspoke in this video and implied something other than that, but the intended idea is that your suspension is fully unloaded (full droop) when you put a tire in the air. You can also say that when you have a tire in the air, the suspension is at full droop.
So my question is can i use ac springs plus 2 inch spacers? 🤷♂️ if i only highway drive. Only for looks and sometimes mud terrain only
No
@208tyler I recent just had OME springs installed, both heavy duty in the front and heavy duty in the rear. Problem I’m having is how rough the rear seems to ride. It’s so stiff and very uncomfortable, feels like the truck just jumps in the air going over even a mild bump. I still have OEM rear shocks however and the mechanic said after installing springs that shocks are topped out pretty bad. Is the issue I’m having with how stiff the rear is because of the shocks or perhaps I got springs that were way to stiff and tough.
I would suspect that the shocks are to blame. OME makes high quality springs that ride well, and most people use land rover springs in the rear which are even stiffer, and I don't hear a lot of complaints about those. Definitely try upgrading your shocks, you need new ones regardless if you're lifted
I put a spacer lift in and achieved no lift. The coils just compressed more and offset the spacer. Where can i get the lift springs? Can i use the xj lifted coil springs?
Uhm ok.
You can get them lost of places, I don’t recommend the XJ springs. This video has links on the description.
Check out this video (and the links in this video description): th-cam.com/video/9AOeEGP-4pU/w-d-xo.html
What spacers and what size were they?
Question for you. I put land rover HD springs on the rear and it's got this on a huge rake. What size would help level out the front, or should I cut a coil out of the back springs?
Closest you'll get is about 1" of rake with some AC coils. I have AC / 9449 and about 1.25" of rake
thank you for the infro
So I’m looking to lift my pathfinder just because I like how they look and I want to have fun with it when I can. I’m thinking of going with springs but what would you all recommend? I live in Chicago. So we sometimes get heavy snow. I don’t really see myself doing too much off-roading besides the usuals bumps now and then since there’s not really areas that I know of to go off-road. Any recommendations for me? Also pretty new at all this. I also don’t want to go too high for the same reason but I would like to have bigger tires overall and a good height. This is my daily as well
Sounds like you should leave it stock
@@208Tyler i want to start by putting some 31s on it rn at a stock height and Plan on lifting it once I move out and start going on trails. But I just want to give it a simple lift that will be able to do the job. And I do not want spacers just to be on the safer side of breaking stuff. Ideally i would want to give it a 2 inch lift but I would like it to be leveled out in the back. With a 2 inch in front; what do you recommend for the back to level it?
Start with taking it on some trails stock and seeing how it goes- it might surprise you how little you need.
So can I match the front lift springs from 4x4 that you linked, with the NRC#9449 springs in the rear!!?? Please answer
Yes
I have a 2001 LE 4wd Pathfinder and I’m looking to make it quite a bit taller. It’s bone stock right now. What problems could I run into if I doubled up a spring lift with a spacer lift? I’m hoping to end with around 4 inches of lift (give or take).
Don’t even try it. Exactly like this and other videos explain, going much above 2” of lift will kill your CV axles and be difficult to align.
You will kill the drive ability and reliability of the vehicle by doing that. Going with a moderate lift (and eventually tire size) helps increase the ground clearance of the R50 without sacrificing the things that make it great.
If you have to go big, go for a SFD, which I detail and show off in other videos on my channel.
@@208Tyler That’s what I was afraid of. I’m glad I asked before really messing something up. Thanks for the fast and helpful reply, I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions soon enough! I bought this vehicle as a cheap alternative to a 4Runner but now I’m not sure I’ll ever go back. This community seems very tight knit and cool to be a part of.
Sure thing man, enjoy it
@208tyler wasup man just had a question in regards to the spacers. I read on forums that when they get a 2.5 front and rear 2.5 that the rear sits a little higher. my question is do I need to offset the spacers meaning get 2.5 for the front and 2 in the rear just to get that even balance lift? Thanks in advance.
If you're going to be using spacers, check where your car sits right now. If it's level, lift both sides equally. If not, adjust accordingly.
I do not recommend suspension spacers for lifting the R50 pathfinder.
@@208Tyler appreciate the response man.. I own a 03 qx4 so should I not lift with spacers since the qx4 is pretty much a pathfinder? New to the offroad thing so any help is appreciated..
Like I explain in this video and others, I'm not a fan of spacers.
Only you can decide what to put on your vehicle, based on your use case and needs.
@@208Tyler thanks 🤟
So those belstein shocks you got on the description fit the r50 ? Bilstein (33-185569) 5100 Series Front Shock Absorber?
No those are rear shocks
So those fit the rear? Just making sure
Yup
For this exact shock do I need to extend anything? I thought there was only 1 type of 5100s. I'm doing the lr9449 spring in back and 2in spacer in front on Gabriels. Im 2wd. TIA
Do you need a new strut assembly for the larger springs
You may need a fresh or new assembly, but you do not need a “different” assembly. Any high quality OEM-equivalent strut can be used with lift springs
@@208Tyler I just got a 2002 pathfinder, 160k miles. Looking to get it lifted. I was going to go with spacers but I now want to just spend the money for lift springs.
Yes. Springs are much better than spacers
Hi Bro..is it possible to install any other car’s springs like landcruiser or landrover on r50?.
Only in the rear, refer to this video: th-cam.com/video/kFEzj9zXJFg/w-d-xo.html
Mr Tyler it's been great watching your channel grow. I've had a 1.5 and think a 2.5 inch lift in the rear for over 4 years now. I put new struts and new shocks (KYB #KG4163) up until about 5 months ago everything was pretty smooth. Now the front struts seem too stiff not a whole lot of travel and the rears are bottoming out when I go over big dips. I don't go off road just some dirt roads. I don't really want to change out the spacers if I don't have to. I just want to hear your recommendation for struts and shocks given this set up. If you have a patreon or venmo I would gladly pay for your advice.
Interesting.
Here's what I do know about spacer lift setups (which it sounds like you have): the stock springs get worn down and tired, especially on lifted setups, and will cause the suspension to bottom out. The problem's that you're having in the rear suspension are undoubtedly from the abysmal stock spring rate. Swithcing to a dobinson, OME, or Land rover coil (options I explain in some of my newer videos, check the "lift kit" playlists on my channel) will fix that. The shocks aren't responsible for keeping the vehicle from bottoming out, but rather damping vibrations and smaller bumps that you experience during normal driving. But, if the springs can't do their job, the shocks experience more load than they can smooth out, and the ride quality goes to crap.
The front is harder to diagnose, so test it out to see what's really giving. On a flat surface, push on the hood of the vehicle, and start bouncing it up and down. At the end of a push (hood all the way down as far as you can press it) let off the hood and watch how the suspension reacts. On a good set of struts, the vehicle should rebound back up once, and pretty much settle down. If it takes more than that for the vehicle to steady itself, your struts are shot. here's a visual @ timestamp 4:17 on this video: th-cam.com/video/eIYPi6-CS1Q/w-d-xo.html
If the struts seem fine, AND you feel like the ride is too stiff, that's quite the quandry, especially if all you've done to modify the suspension was a spacer lift several years ago. Perhaps you've changed tire pressure or something small like that. Or the effects of the rear suspension are tricking you into perceiving poor ride in the front.
The front has notoriously bad travel- sway bar or not, your front wheels won't have much travel, that's the nature of the IFS platform these are equipped with.
I need to setup a more natural payment platform, but for now, if you feel inclined to support the channel here's my Paypal: paypal.me/pathydude?locale.x=en_US
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@@208Tyler sent via venmo.. just to be clear are you saying replace the spring and keeping the spacer or just nix the spacer and go with that spring. I'm looking at the bilstein 5100s aesthetically they are a better look then what I have now.
@@richardrowland8425 Thank you so much!
I would ditch the spacer and opt for a lift spring.
I have one of the 5100's, as I explain in some of my videos on shocks they're a good option
@@208Tyler my nrc9449s are on the way, went on the land rover site you had posted. From there they had a few options and brands to choose from. I did see the cheaper options but shipping was more than the parts and the lowest was 117. I did a cross reference and found 1 us selling the mid tier brand from that site for 120 with shipping. Think the part number is br1470, the LR site was selling these for around 36£ each on sale plus shipping. I also used your advice on advance auto and was able to buy my mile marker hubs for $26 dollars off.👍 I'm still unsure about the shocks I'm definitely going 26 inch probably the bilstein 33 185552. I believe one of your videos said you have to upgrade a bolt. Do you know the size? Next buy with be the ac coils for the front and probably the kyb g shocks and get the moog k90474 bolts believe I need just 2.. for the aliment. Thanks again for all your help and hard work.
The video talks about the bolt size a little. The method for addressing that depends on your model year R50, they change at the facelift. One of your bolts will be a 12mm mount, but both shock mounts on the bilsteins are 16mm. You have to get a bigger bolt, a smaller bushing, or a metal sleeve that makes up the gap.
That's one reason why I don't touch the suspension. Altering it is like going against the engineers at Nissan who did the right thing.
It’s definitely a consideration - generally, the more you modify, the more compromises you make and the more problems you introduce.
Anybody having issues with AC springs topping out your KYB struts on pot holes? Or is it just me?
All springs will “top out” your struts if pushed far enough, even stock ones.
Great info thanks
I'm looking at buying a lift and want to go with a kit similar to this www.4x4parts.com/i-18981317-pathfinder-suspension-package.html. My R50 stock allows 31s but this 2 inch kit says max of 31s.. Shouldnt I be able to run 33s with the extra 2 inches of clearance
Sorry I didn't see this comment earlier, TH-cam didn't send me a notification. So, a few things.
1. Only go to 4x4parts.com for their lift coils, everything else is overpriced with the shipping they charge.
2. Stock does allow 31's and you can fit 33's on that 2" kit (I have 32's, you'll just have to cut a little more). What you will need is 3.75 backspacing to fit anything larger than a 31" tire, as is explained in this video: th-cam.com/video/LwT4qx3RK9o/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if you have any more questions, I'll try and get back to them sooner. Thanks!
@@208Tyler no worries thanks man... I dont have to worry about shipping theres a 4x4 parts store 20 miles away so will get everything there..
What’s the price on the kyb struts, there website won’t tell me
Most people buy struts on amazon or rock auto. Those will definitely tell you the price
I just wish I could better see the diagrams!
Not great resolution. Full resolution on a laptop might be your best bet if you aren't doing that already.
use camber bolts save 20 mins
Camber bolts don't have anything to do with the spacer lift vs. coil lift issue that this video highlights.
Awesome. You answered my questions. Thx!!