i love your tool tuck videos and as some 1 who i just starting to learn how to fix my own car i,d love to see more videos like this 1 where you show tools and how to use them propery thanks and have a good 1
I agree with using an inductive Amp-clamp to find a draw (or load), but things on this truck are even better then Wally originally thought. 0.037 Amps is three hundredths of an amp, and 0.30 is three tenths. The draw is a hundred times smaller than originally suggested.
I appreciate tools that make it simple to do every day test, i custom made test leads for the same purpose, but i like how these offer the ability to hook up my regulars leads over them and icould use the by pass switch when I'm talking a volt/ ohm reading with out disrupting the draw test. I'm getting them xD
My uncle use to have a 97 Chevy that would run down the battery if it also let it set for a long time so he ended up putting a Togo switch under the dash to shut the power of from the battery and it also works as a anti- theft device.
Clay, there is no need to even try to remember which tools Wally bought, as just because her bought it doesn't mean that it is: 1. Not broken 2. Not lost or 3. Not currently in use between his mouth and brain to determine why the mouth continues to operate even with the brain powered down. Thanks for the video
I find it better especially on newer vehicles to check voltage drop across fuses instead to find the draw as pulling fuses and putting them back in can wake up other modules.
Take a picture of the fuse panel then pull 1 fuse at a time and DON'T put it back. Put the fuses back once you fix the draw. I never understood why someone pulls the fuse and immediately puts it back common sense it will wake up modules.
I mean as long as your careful not to touch leads together you won’t blow your fuse. I don’t really see the point of this when the meter has it already. But like the videos guys keep up the good work.
Look up testing parasitic draw with voltage drop using millivolts. It's probably the fastest most effective way to find one without buying extra tools or pulling fuses.
Nice video and nice demonstration on how to find a parisick amp draw on a battery. But I think I would have done a load test on the battery first, especially after finding that the costumer had installed a reconditioned battery. A dead or weak cell in the battery will drain it over night making you think there is an amp draw somewhere in the vehicle. Thanks for sharing Clay....
The customer specifically requested a parasitic draw test to be conducted even though I told him I thought it was the battery, it’s his money so if he wants to play mechanic and pay for unneeded tests after ya advising him he can because he refused to listen to the fact the battery could be junk. Some people are like that
I may have not stated it in the video but he even changed the starter because he was so sure the battery wasn’t the issue and brought it there specifically for the test
You can also do the same test with a test light or a basic DC voltmeter. Can you explain why that device would work any better than the two tests I mentioned?
The test lamp could work but having just a bulb doesnt tell you if and when your below the specified resistance. The test light only vaguely represents amps in the form of the bulb. Having it on dc volts will do absolutely nothing
Eh ok correction you can do it on DC volts if you could read milli amps. The purpose of the tool is merely as he said. To protect a 5 dollar fuse with 10c fuses
Dukes world, I've tested shorts to ground this way, but never a parasitic draw, can you explain how this works? Is there a special bulb required for this test that only turns on when its over 50 ma? I'm curious if any test light could work this way.
I’d mess with Wally and go right to headlight to pop the fuse haha I got tired of buying the expensive meter fuses and put my own acm holder and soldered it to my meter
That tool sure beats clamping the meter leads to the battery cable with vice-grips haha. Also, if any one is wondering, if you don't find the source of the draw by removing fuses, you need to disconnect the alternator and starter one at a time to see which is drawing battery current.
Sure, a parasitic draw test is a parasitic draw test no matter where the battery is located, they are other methods tho, where you don't disconnect the battery or the fuses, you measure the millivolts across the fuses and i believe power probe provides a chart where you can tell if the fuses are running current they shouldn't.( im honest here, I've never ever had any luck with this test xD i always do it the old fashion way)
The reason he changed the starter and a bunch of other parts is because the kind of guy who buys a used battery is the kind of guy who will refuse to believe that he wasted his money on it because "iT tEsTeD gOoD." Of course, his test was turning on the dome lights and seeing them turn on. He's also the guy who will spend $350 and 14 trips to the parts/hardware store adapting a free part that he got from his buddy to fit his truck when the correct part only cost $150, because the factory part just cost too much.
When your customer pays you to do a parasitic draw test you do one. Even though he was told ahead of time that it was more than likely the battery and he refused to believe that and wants the test run. Run it.
Okay so I have this tool and I do love it but there is a flaw here. If you follow the instructions you will likely pop your 10 amp fuse everytime. When you disconnect battery and then connect your leads of tester to negative post and terminal the lights headlamp flash, the horn chirps and POP goes your fuse. Instead remove negative cable end, clamp one end of tool on battery post, set vehicle cable end on top of post, then take second clamp of tool and clip the battery cable end. Then remove the cable end of vehicle from battery post.
Makes sense! XD that is a flaw,...i wonder, do you have to use a 10a fuse ? What if my meter can tan 20a ? Could i just put 20a fuses instead of the 10a?
@@jlturbos ithink that wouldn't work, because iwould break the circuit, then when it resets it would break again... then again.... and would be impossible to perform the test.
I respectfully disagree, Amp clamp and thermo imager, a inductive amp meter are better faster tools (yes more expensive) some parasitic draws go away after having to connect in series, or when the battery drops below 9 volts making many “unable to duplicate” If you have an amp draw never disconnect the battery, only wastes time, trying to reproduce the issue, especially on more modern vehicles. Lasty amp clamp you never need to worry about popping a fuse, the videos example pulled almost 1 amp... try cycling the entire system you will be pulling more than 50 amps at key on engine off, making the fuse go open circuit, and you have start all over again.
I mean... I can take a junk battery and put it on a charger and make it start a car a few times, but it's still a junk battery, you can't call that reconditioned and sell it to somebody. You mean to tell me that you're too poor to go to Walmart (I know everyone has a Walmart) and buy a damn neverstart for $85 but you're going to bring a truck to a professional mechanic to have home tell you what you already know? Some people's kids...
Yours boys need to do your home work this tool is useless by disconnecting the battery you can cause the drain to be reset therefore making it hard to find this in my opinion renders the tool a waste of money , learn how to check battery drain without disconnecting the battery is the key.
would be awesome to see even more vids like this. super awesome! solidified my need for one!
Love this type of video. Show a tool and then how to use that tool... Very educational and informative... Thanks Clay
Thank you ! I appreciate the comment and you watching.
I bought one of these yesterday
i love your tool tuck videos and as some 1 who i just starting to learn how to fix my own car i,d love to see more videos like this 1 where you show tools and how to use them propery thanks and have a good 1
Stand by cause I have some coming
@@KoonTrucking nice cannot wait !:-p
Once again, proper troubleshooting saves the day and some money
Thank you so much for this video. It was very helpful
I agree with using an inductive Amp-clamp to find a draw (or load), but things on this truck are even better then Wally originally thought. 0.037 Amps is three hundredths of an amp, and 0.30 is three tenths. The draw is a hundred times smaller than originally suggested.
exactly. 37 milliamps which is an acceptable drain.
You can see that when Wally is working he is serious.
I bet he is a useful guy in the shop
Great video. Thanks for the explanation of how to use the tool.
I use a cheap dc current loop clamp around a batt cable. Works quite well.
I appreciate tools that make it simple to do every day test, i custom made test leads for the same purpose, but i like how these offer the ability to hook up my regulars leads over them and icould use the by pass switch when I'm talking a volt/ ohm reading with out disrupting the draw test. I'm getting them xD
My uncle use to have a 97 Chevy that would run down the battery if it also let it set for a long time so he ended up putting a Togo switch under the dash to shut the power of from the battery and it also works as a anti- theft device.
Thank you for breaking it down, lots of great info..👍
Great job Wally
I’m gonna buy one of those kits! Very nice and great video as always!!!
Clay, there is no need to even try to remember which tools Wally bought, as just because her bought it doesn't mean that it is:
1. Not broken
2. Not lost
or
3. Not currently in use between his mouth and brain to determine why the mouth continues to operate even with the brain powered down.
Thanks for the video
Brilliant video tutorial great
👍
ASTUTE Koon trucking
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧 ⏰️ 22:46pm Good Evening
That's cool I just learned something, thanks
Well dang, I'mma need this tool!
Thanks God bless your shop!
Very helpful as always thanks guys.
Good video. Good explanation
You guys are the best
Yas sir great video and awesome tip to put to use
I find it better especially on newer vehicles to check voltage drop across fuses instead to find the draw as pulling fuses and putting them back in can wake up other modules.
Good point
That is a good point. We normally work on older models at the moment but that is a very good point to make
That’s true. On a truck like that it wouldn’t really matter.
Take a picture of the fuse panel then pull 1 fuse at a time and DON'T put it back. Put the fuses back once you fix the draw. I never understood why someone pulls the fuse and immediately puts it back common sense it will wake up modules.
Check out the amp hound for doing the voltage drop across the fuses .. makes the math easier lol
Cool video thanks gentlemen
Thx Wally good info
Thanks for the explanation Wall-E
Another awesome video guys. I like the tool reviews but I also like to see these kind of videos as well.
I mean as long as your careful not to touch leads together you won’t blow your fuse. I don’t really see the point of this when the meter has it already. But like the videos guys keep up the good work.
Look up testing parasitic draw with voltage drop using millivolts. It's probably the fastest most effective way to find one without buying extra tools or pulling fuses.
Nice video and nice demonstration on how to find a parisick amp draw on a battery. But I think I would have done a load test on the battery first, especially after finding that the costumer had installed a reconditioned battery. A dead or weak cell in the battery will drain it over night making you think there is an amp draw somewhere in the vehicle. Thanks for sharing Clay....
The customer specifically requested a parasitic draw test to be conducted even though I told him I thought it was the battery, it’s his money so if he wants to play mechanic and pay for unneeded tests after ya advising him he can because he refused to listen to the fact the battery could be junk. Some people are like that
That's true Clay. I didn't catch that the costumer requested the test, my bad....
I may have not stated it in the video but he even changed the starter because he was so sure the battery wasn’t the issue and brought it there specifically for the test
Would you say anything higher than 0.05 AMPs will be a reason for concern ? Does it matter the order you connect the leads to multi meter?
Thanks Clay and Wally. For those of us that don't have a Matco dealer around you can find the same item by Lisle #64970.
yep i have had that lisle tool for years
Just looked this up and was going to post. 🍺
It's nice of Matco Michael do do that for you
Thanks guys. 👌🏼
Good video y'all have a good day and stay safe 👍
You can also do the same test with a test light or a basic DC voltmeter. Can you explain why that device would work any better than the two tests I mentioned?
Because that's simply NOT how you check parasitic draw
The test lamp could work but having just a bulb doesnt tell you if and when your below the specified resistance. The test light only vaguely represents amps in the form of the bulb. Having it on dc volts will do absolutely nothing
Eh ok correction you can do it on DC volts if you could read milli amps. The purpose of the tool is merely as he said. To protect a 5 dollar fuse with 10c fuses
Dukes world, I've tested shorts to ground this way, but never a parasitic draw, can you explain how this works? Is there a special bulb required for this test that only turns on when its over 50 ma? I'm curious if any test light could work this way.
Lisle makes one also, pretty much exact copy,probably lil bit cheaper
What’s the switch on the leads for
A load tester to confirm the battery being faulty is helpful too.
I’d mess with Wally and go right to headlight to pop the fuse haha I got tired of buying the expensive meter fuses and put my own acm holder and soldered it to my meter
Was having the same problem last week, but it was my alternator..
Instead of pulling fuses get an amp hound. Great tool.
That tool sure beats clamping the meter leads to the battery cable with vice-grips haha. Also, if any one is wondering, if you don't find the source of the draw by removing fuses, you need to disconnect the alternator and starter one at a time to see which is drawing battery current.
Very good point I forgot to mention that
Can this help you do a Parasitic Draw Test with battery in trunk or under a seat
2000 Cadillac Deville and 2013 Dodge Chargers
Sure, a parasitic draw test is a parasitic draw test no matter where the battery is located, they are other methods tho, where you don't disconnect the battery or the fuses, you measure the millivolts across the fuses and i believe power probe provides a chart where you can tell if the fuses are running current they shouldn't.( im honest here, I've never ever had any luck with this test xD i always do it the old fashion way)
Wally seems to be pretty knowledgeable about the electrical systems on vehicles. Is Wally your electrical troubleshooter?
Me and Wally both love electrical. Electrical and AC are my favorite things to do.
Clay are you guys taking applications at this time?
No sir we are fine at the moment
The reason he changed the starter and a bunch of other parts is because the kind of guy who buys a used battery is the kind of guy who will refuse to believe that he wasted his money on it because "iT tEsTeD gOoD." Of course, his test was turning on the dome lights and seeing them turn on. He's also the guy who will spend $350 and 14 trips to the parts/hardware store adapting a free part that he got from his buddy to fit his truck when the correct part only cost $150, because the factory part just cost too much.
Can I use this tool on a Honda accord 2006 let me know thanks
If it has a batter on it you can use it
Lisle makes that for matco
Can't a test light do the same thing?
Whats wrong with an amp clamp?
Could of load tested the battery too see the battery was bad?
When your customer pays you to do a parasitic draw test you do one. Even though he was told ahead of time that it was more than likely the battery and he refused to believe that and wants the test run. Run it.
Koon Trucking i hear ya I’ve been in a Similar situation myself.
Okay so I have this tool and I do love it but there is a flaw here. If you follow the instructions you will likely pop your 10 amp fuse everytime. When you disconnect battery and then connect your leads of tester to negative post and terminal the lights headlamp flash, the horn chirps and POP goes your fuse. Instead remove negative cable end, clamp one end of tool on battery post, set vehicle cable end on top of post, then take second clamp of tool and clip the battery cable end. Then remove the cable end of vehicle from battery post.
It would probable be easier to pull the fuse from the device first or install a mini circuit breaker in place of the fuse.
Makes sense! XD that is a flaw,...i wonder, do you have to use a 10a fuse ? What if my meter can tan 20a ? Could i just put 20a fuses instead of the 10a?
@@jlturbos ithink that wouldn't work, because iwould break the circuit, then when it resets it would break again... then again.... and would be impossible to perform the test.
💪🏽💪🏽🤔 ok that’s kool
i think the alternator ant alternating to charge battery
Around 2:17
Bad practice to not select the correct measuring range BEFORE connecting to the circuit.....
👍
Got on a snap on truck for the first time. Nothing compared to yours. Barley even full
He was more of an “ ill order it guy” then an “ I have it guy “
Show us ha it werkz
What's up guy's?!?!!!
This is the same as the lisle parasitic draw tester
Yep that’s who makes it
@@KoonTrucking definitely prefer thru Matco tho cuz easier warranty process
If I didn't like your videos so much, I would probably quit watching because of all the Chevy hate going on 😂
just get an amp hound you dont have to pull fuses
I respectfully disagree, Amp clamp and thermo imager, a inductive amp meter are better faster tools (yes more expensive) some parasitic draws go away after having to connect in series, or when the battery drops below 9 volts making many “unable to duplicate”
If you have an amp draw never disconnect the battery, only wastes time, trying to reproduce the issue, especially on more modern vehicles.
Lasty amp clamp you never need to worry about popping a fuse, the videos example pulled almost 1 amp... try cycling the entire system you will be pulling more than 50 amps at key on engine off, making the fuse go open circuit, and you have start all over again.
Why not just check the battery alone.
Checking the battery will only tell you the voltage when you have a parasitic draw on it, it kills the battery.
Wtf is a reconditioned battery?
Junk. They take an old battery and “make it work again” cheap way to get a battery that might last a month or so
I mean... I can take a junk battery and put it on a charger and make it start a car a few times, but it's still a junk battery, you can't call that reconditioned and sell it to somebody. You mean to tell me that you're too poor to go to Walmart (I know everyone has a Walmart) and buy a damn neverstart for $85 but you're going to bring a truck to a professional mechanic to have home tell you what you already know? Some people's kids...
So he paid at least hour labor and new starter over year old recon battery 😂.
Yep
@@KoonTrucking up here in north when in doubt replace battery the cold is hard on them and being stuck in cold with dead battery sucks
Yours boys need to do your home work this tool is useless by disconnecting the battery you can cause the drain to be reset therefore making it hard to find this in my opinion renders the tool a waste of money , learn how to check battery drain without disconnecting the battery is the key.
EXACTLY SAME AS MAC TOOLS ET64970