I shared the backscene painting video with my partner and she chuckled about Bob Ross and the art of painting... it’s on the BBC iPlayer over here at the moment! Great tutorial, well filmed and good voice over.
no problem, i'm a landscape painter so i have a hard time ignoring a poorly painted backdrop. but you got your tons and colors locked in wonderfully, didn't try to do to much either. less is more when its off in the distance! do you have any training in painting or is that just something you've learned and perfected over time?@@SouthernAlbertaRail
Super helpful. One day in a larger space I'd like to model the Windermere Sub (e.g. Radium bluffs) and the technique and colours you use are a lot like how that area looks... Very inspiring! Thank you!
Grant, your work is fabulous and a terrific learning opportunity. I am thoroughly enjoying going through your videos. Thank you! I had a question which I'm not sure if you covered elsewhere - how do you do lighting and fascia? I notice the lighting is beautifully bright and completely fills the space behind the valence. I also notice that your fascia flows naturally around curves and with the landscape. Do you tend to cut the fascia before or after mounting? Thanks again!
Thank you! The lighting is 5000K fluorescent. Fascia is 1/8" hardboard. I cut it before affixing. I finish the fascia before I finish the scenery. I'll touch up any blemishes afterward. I feel that fascia should be a part of the layout not an afterthought. Cheers. -grant
Hi Grant, I am watching your videos again to get supplies as I begin scenicing my layout. I am hard of hearing and use captions which are by no means perfect. Captions ( which I appreciate very much ) did not transcribe very well and I could not understand if you were using " sanded tile grout " or " non-sanded tile grout " to stop static grass from adhering. Thank you for the great series of videos.
Very nice on all points, Grant. I note you like Celluclay™ throughout (and with great results) but did you ever try Sculptamold™? I've used it extensively on commercial model jobs as well friends' railways, and enjoyed the cross between plaster and pulp. I'd appreciate your take on what makes Celluclay superior, as I'm never too old to learn!
Thanks! I'm pretty sure I have used Sculptamold in the past but Celluclay is easier to find locally!! I find the two products very similar with Scultamold being a bit finer in texture if memory serves. I can't remember if Scultamold dries hard or not? With the number of trees on the layout I enjoy the fact that Celluclay is easy to poke through when planting. Cheers. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail In favour the stuff: 1. Cleanup is a breeze compared to plaster. 2. Sculp' forms its own rock. It makes joins between plaster rock castings vanish with literally no effort, or just slap it on and you have rock. 3. It takes colour like plaster so castings don't show up as separate pieces with "grout"! On the other hand, it has vanished from the art chain I used to get it from, and the price was going up and up before that. I may try mixing my plaster with pulp next time and see if I can make my own. And I'll have try out some Celluclay too! Thanx
Definitely a lot nicer in the cleanup department and I love your analogy regarding "grout" lines between rock castings. It's something that requires a certain touch to avoid. I really appreciate your perspective on this. Great discussion. Cheers! -grant
Hello Grant, I am wondering how you did the landscape closest to you where the small hills and stuff is. Just wondering how you did it and what you did it with.
I'm a big fan of a product called Celluclay applied over a styrofoam base. Very easy to work with to create the initial scenery base. I then use various commercial scenic products and latex paint as a binding agent. I have several scenery videos on my members side of the channel if you're interested in step by step tutorials. The vids cover all the different aspects of my scenery work from prairie to rock work and everything in between. Thanks for tuning in! -grant
You have a ripper of a layout. Please tell me the tuft grass colour and the colour of static grass used. Much appreciated. What is the colour code of the Tan latex please.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail fair enough. Im not having any luck finding those tufts and static grass in Australia. Hopefully I can find a store in the states that ships international as scenery express won’t let me select my country to proceed.
Incredible looking and a great eye for detail!
Thank you very much. All the best. -grant
Masterful. You never cease to ammmaze me. Thank you for sharing 🙏🏼
Wow, thank you Jal!
That looked terrific Grant, thank you for sharing.
My pleasure John, thanks for watching. Cheers. -grant
The rivulets and erosion really make this look authentic as does the ballast trails in the foreground. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for tuning in. Great word... Rivulet! Not often yo get to pull that one out. Cheers! -grant
Lol, true. You pulled them out with the dry brush technique.
That backdrop would make Bob Ross proud. Cheers!
Thanks Matt. My trees are no where near as happy though!
I shared the backscene painting video with my partner and she chuckled about Bob Ross and the art of painting... it’s on the BBC iPlayer over here at the moment!
Great tutorial, well filmed and good voice over.
Thanks James!
Bob Ross painted flat, this is better, three dimensional and no fro. Lol.
Outstanding work, thanks for sharing with us. Keep them coming! - Steve
Thanks, will do Steve!
Awesome, tutorial. Thanks for sharing. Doing a fictional layout and will have some scenery close to this. Looking forward to your next video 📹!
Cool, thanks! Have fun giving it a go.
Thank you for sharing your tips and techniques. It really brings the scene to life!
No sweat Sean. -grant
really nice paint work.
Thank you Frank! Cheers! -grant
no problem, i'm a landscape painter so i have a hard time ignoring a poorly painted backdrop. but you got your tons and colors locked in wonderfully, didn't try to do to much either. less is more when its off in the distance! do you have any training in painting or is that just something you've learned and perfected over time?@@SouthernAlbertaRail
Something I've taught myself through trial and much error!! I really appreciate your insight. -grant
Wow, very nice!!!
Thanks
Hey thanks for watching Ted. Cheers.
For mostly all paint and sculpting this is just amazing!
Thanks!
Excellent Results, Good Job.
Thank you!
Another really good tutorial Grant, that hillside looks excellent and again with the backdrop really brings the scene to life, cheers Grant, John
Thanks John! Take care. -grant
Fantastic, nothing short of being the real thing!
Thanks Dale. Hope you got something out of it.
Amazing work. You’ve got talent
Thank you. Appreciate the comment. -grant
Excellent job 👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great work! Beautiful!
The tutorial was excellent. VERY well done.
Thanks for sharing. This will help us all in our efforts!
Glad it was helpful! All the best. -grant
Great work....that looks awesom
Thank you! Cheers.
Super helpful. One day in a larger space I'd like to model the Windermere Sub (e.g. Radium bluffs) and the technique and colours you use are a lot like how that area looks... Very inspiring! Thank you!
Awesome. Glad you got something out of the vid.
Just amazing! Thanks for sharing. Dave
Thanks for watching Dave. -grant
That turned out nice
Thanks Randy.
Outstanding !
Many thanks!
Trabalho incrível!! Parabéns e obrigado por compartilhar!
Thank you very much.
Grant, your work is fabulous and a terrific learning opportunity. I am thoroughly enjoying going through your videos. Thank you!
I had a question which I'm not sure if you covered elsewhere - how do you do lighting and fascia? I notice the lighting is beautifully bright and completely fills the space behind the valence. I also notice that your fascia flows naturally around curves and with the landscape. Do you tend to cut the fascia before or after mounting?
Thanks again!
Thank you! The lighting is 5000K fluorescent. Fascia is 1/8" hardboard. I cut it before affixing. I finish the fascia before I finish the scenery. I'll touch up any blemishes afterward. I feel that fascia should be a part of the layout not an afterthought. Cheers. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail Thank you for the very helpful reply, Grant!
Hi Grant, I am watching your videos again to get supplies as I begin scenicing my layout. I am hard of hearing and use captions which are by no means perfect. Captions ( which I appreciate very much ) did not transcribe very well and I could not understand if you were using " sanded tile grout " or " non-sanded tile grout " to stop static grass from adhering.
Thank you for the great series of videos.
I use sanded tile grout John.
Great tutorial, thank you for sharing. Cheers
Thanks for watching Don. -grant
Very nice on all points, Grant. I note you like Celluclay™ throughout (and with great results) but did you ever try Sculptamold™? I've used it extensively on commercial model jobs as well friends' railways, and enjoyed the cross between plaster and pulp. I'd appreciate your take on what makes Celluclay superior, as I'm never too old to learn!
Thanks! I'm pretty sure I have used Sculptamold in the past but Celluclay is easier to find locally!! I find the two products very similar with Scultamold being a bit finer in texture if memory serves. I can't remember if Scultamold dries hard or not? With the number of trees on the layout I enjoy the fact that Celluclay is easy to poke through when planting. Cheers. -grant
@@SouthernAlbertaRail In favour the stuff:
1. Cleanup is a breeze compared to plaster.
2. Sculp' forms its own rock. It makes joins between plaster rock castings vanish with literally no effort, or just slap it on and you have rock.
3. It takes colour like plaster so castings don't show up as separate pieces with "grout"!
On the other hand, it has vanished from the art chain I used to get it from, and the price was going up and up before that. I may try mixing my plaster with pulp next time and see if I can make my own.
And I'll have try out some Celluclay too!
Thanx
Definitely a lot nicer in the cleanup department and I love your analogy regarding "grout" lines between rock castings. It's something that requires a certain touch to avoid. I really appreciate your perspective on this. Great discussion. Cheers! -grant
Awesome 🚂🚃🚃🚃🚃👍
Thanks Tom.
great job
Thanks!
This is easily the best scenery I have ever seen in N scale. I am trying to replicate something similar to this, but in HO. What ballast do you use?
Thanks Justin. I screen my own ballast from mountain creek an hour west of my house.
Hello Grant, I am wondering how you did the landscape closest to you where the small hills and stuff is. Just wondering how you did it and what you did it with.
I'm a big fan of a product called Celluclay applied over a styrofoam base. Very easy to work with to create the initial scenery base. I then use various commercial scenic products and latex paint as a binding agent. I have several scenery videos on my members side of the channel if you're interested in step by step tutorials. The vids cover all the different aspects of my scenery work from prairie to rock work and everything in between. Thanks for tuning in! -grant
You have a ripper of a layout. Please tell me the tuft grass colour and the colour of static grass used. Much appreciated. What is the colour code of the Tan latex please.
I use Silfor autumn static grass and prairie tufts. I also use Silfor autumn buffalo grass.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail thanks. What type of tan colour you got in paint ? Do you have brand and colour code ?
@@eremyjay Nope. I just eyeball something from a paint chip that looks right. Any latex interior will do. Just be sure it's a flat or eggshell finish.
@@SouthernAlbertaRail fair enough. Im not having any luck finding those tufts and static grass in Australia. Hopefully I can find a store in the states that ships international as scenery express won’t let me select my country to proceed.
Had the same problem. I had my order shipped to a friend in the States and he forwarded it on to me.