Sand, Prime, Paint, and Clear My 3D Prints! A Quick Look into My Process - VLOG 4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ธ.ค. 2020
- So i was in the garage and looked around. And noticed I had projects in basically every step of the process I follow to finish these 3D printed builds!
So I decided to grab my camera and show you all a few things i focus on when painting them. From sanding to clearcoating i talk about a little of everything in this Vlog. Hopefully it can shed some light on a few of my personal methods!
Enjoy!
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#3dprinted #painting #sanding - บันเทิง
Wanted to say thank you for being upfront about expectations. It makes everything else you do and say that much more genuine. Fantastic job, it's inspiring to see what's possible.
Wow I got so excited when I saw the treasure planet map! One of my favorite movies! I’m gonna go print that now!
Free on thingiverse!
all of your painting videos I have seen thus far have been absolutely great and I love the fact that it's not a step by step but you go into detail and actually teach techniques and offer invaluable insight which is just perfect, thank you. Keep up the great work.
Frank, if your clear coat is bubbling up, is called solvent pop. Meaning you are spraying to many costs of clear without letting flash ( solvent evaporation) long enough. As the clear coat cures (hardens)the solvents that were in it to make it able to be sprayable evapore if you spray too fast after your previous coat, you are trapping those solvents in the coat and they turn into bubbles. Wait the full time recommended on the cap for flashing in between coats. If the paint is wrinkling when you spray a coat of either base or clear coat. Is either the primer did not cure all the way, might be dry on the surface but wet underneath still. Also too much base or clear coat it drenches the paint making it reactivate therefore wrinkle. When you sand check how far the wrinkle went down and it should tell you which step didn’t dry all the way. I hope I made sense and help you with those paint issues that happen all the time, and usually when you are almost finish and have to start from the beginning to fix 1 imperfection , is frustrating but fun because you get to do it all over again, lol. Cheers !
thanks brother
Wow totally amazing, they look fantastic
I love the nova helmet omg, your so talented
I'm working on a Mandalorian print right now and this video is perfect for helping me.
Wow ur paint job looks really professional. I have been trying to perfect ma own paint job on ma Ironman helmet for a while but I guess I have gotten some dhope ideas from this video. Thanks bro
Cant wait to see the nova helmet complete 👍👍
Holy crap your amazing you've made masks of some of my favorite characters they look awesome
Your such an awesome person
Hi Frank Im ordering my ender 3 tommorow I've spent all my time after school hours learning of you and other people for like 6hours a day but I played abit on xbox today so less learning and Ive been so focused on this I half failed a test so 😞 but thanks alot ♥️ you!
I love the red hood
Love your vids
I love the mandoo helmet
I used to do this..so very tedious. I finally spent $80 to build my own wood enclosure lined with memory foam. It now holds a nice 110degree ambient temp inside, and i can print ABS perfectly every time. I've been printing for 5 years and never touched abs after failing hard several times. Now i wished i had made an enclosure sooner. I still do pla model with .12 layer and .36 infill layer height with a .6mm nozzle and my prints are faster yet still retain very tiny detail on the outside.
Hey Frank, wanted to give you a tip should you care to use it . Spray can primers are crap, due to the reason they are so water down in order for the primer to spray out of that tiny orifice at the tip. You need close to 30 coats to get 1 good coat of automotive filling primer.
So go to your local automotive paint shop supply and buy a quart of urethane filling primer. Any 2k product should do fine. I will come with activator and reducer, usually for a mix ratio of 4:1:1. Run you about $30 dollars. While there pick up a can of adhesion promoter for plastic if you want.
At home get your mixing cup, the paint shop should of provided one at no cost so ask them, and tell them to show you how to use it. Anyways mix the primer and the activator 4:1 don’t use the reducer, don’t need it and you will have an even nicer thick coat. Spray your adhesion promoter on the part you are going to prime. Now forgot to mention, stop at Home Depot and pick up few disposable brushes and small rollers. Apply the primer with your brush nice an evenly through the part. I coat should be enough, you will notice how nice and thick the primer is and lays out. Let it cure and once dry, usually 30 minutes wet sand with 400 wet and dry sand paper. Any imperfection you might of have will be unnoticeable. The final product will be a nice thick smooth surface, that will also make the paint harder to chip off. Give it a try, you won’t regret and you will see how much time and effort you will save your self from, plus will raid of the second priming stage you have. Let me know how it went if you decide to try this since you got many projects.
PS. Before all the expert painters that have never painted a car in their life yet will have all kinds of opinions on priming with a brush, I’ve had this discussion in many forum before, it doesn’t matter how you apply it because you are going to sand it off for refinishing anyways. I got 20+ years as an automotive painter and never had a problem with this technique , it saves time and money specially on small jobs not having to cover the whole shop to protect from overspray. It just primer not the final finish. Cheers.
This could be a video by itself. If you have any recommendations videos I would appreciate it.
@@posenyang9549 don’t know how to do that, but what in particular are you wanting to know, which process and I can make something for you
Firstly thanks for your channel! I've learnt so much from your advice. I can't find a video on the polishing process though so What do you use to polish or buff after the clear coat? For that shiny metallic, iron man feel? Thanks in advance.
that iron man helmets are awesome
Thanks for the tutorial. Since I have found your channel you have saved me so much time into my props and they are turning out fantastic.
I would like to share something with you that I have found. After following your sanding tips, I then used a spray lacquer (black) by Krylon I found at Lowes on my Mando helm. It gave such a nice even black gloss look and dries quick (15 minutes) and ready to handle within the hour. I then followed it up with the Krylon Mirror paint, 1 light coat and it gave me that black silver mirror look no joke. The lacquer us $5 and the mirror was $10.
Anyway, maybe you can try it out and see if it fits your style and maybe save you time. Thank you again for the tutorials.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much!
Thnx you help me a lot.
Hey frank nice vid what kind of clear coat do u use?
I wish those Rustoleum auto paints were available in the US. I have looked everywhere!
You know you can go to your local auto paint store, pick any color you want and have them put it on a spray can for you.
It’s nice to break stuff once in a while.
Love your channel! Do you have a job outside of your 3D printing? Because I dunno how you find the time to do all of these 😩😂
5:48 Let’s see that looks like a sit acolyte Darth Revan and Darth nihilus
Fucking insane quality job,thanks man
Can we use Flat black bacecoat for nova helmet
Hey Frank I was looking through your paint tutorials and I was wondering, do you have any super nooby ones that I missed? One where you talk about what chrome, masked off, clear coat and a bunch of other things mean? I’m sorry but I’m clueless about this stuff. If not, what’s a good resource for me to learn?
I have a primer video and a painting video
I am not able to get metallic red ,so can I do anything with gloss red
What filler do you use to smooth lines
Body man here, you can clear when it’s tacky to not have to sand it again
Looks like you need a Peopoly Transform resin printer....it might cut down on filling and sanding.....
I want a phenom L but honestly it wouldn’t save me much time and def wouldn’t save me money. It only takes me 5-10 minutes so sand a prime a helmet lol
Painting a custom mando helmet rn, using rustoleum filler primer, and I want a matte paint job with a clear coat finish, any recommendations? I want to try and stick to using spray paint
You need a matte Clearcoat overtop
@@FranklyBuilt Any specific paint brands? I can’t find any matte rustoleum. Thanks for your help!
Krylon makes some
A lot of great information for a beginner like me.
I am going to print a Mando helmet and j want to go straight into prime filler. Many ppl use bondo or wood filler first. Why though? Do I need to do it too?
You always always always want to sand even a little first. For Better adhesion
@@FranklyBuilt so just sanding on the raw print?
Yeah it can make a world of difference
@@FranklyBuilt thank you. I wish I would live in us for painting. In germany we have such a lack of good colors and primers. And it's so epensive..
@@DatFunnyPerson go to your local automotive paint shop, in Germany you guys got Akzo Nobel which is in my opinion the best product out there. Pick a color from their book of colors which are thousands of colors. Tell them to put it into a spray can for you.
Why do you clear the black before spraying the gold as opposed to just spraying gold on the black?
It yields different results. Sometimes the gold doesn’t react with the black properly. But they both can take a clearcoat
do you stream some of your work anywhere? id love to watch you prime sand etc live in order to learn .
I will be actually!
@@FranklyBuilt *activates bell*
Sanding: 80 Grid. Then I'll do 240.
Filler primer. Sanding with 300? And then painting my Mando helmet.
Does that sound okay or am I running into a mistake there?
Should work
You might want to hit it with 150 before the 240, easier to get rid of the 80 grit scratches, primer the part and sand the primer with wet sanding paper 400 or 500 for good adhesion and scratches that any paint should easily hide.
where did you find your mando helmet?
Do3d.com
Can you try to make the apple from the assassins creed movie
Automotive High Fill primer works really well.
What do you do with all those Ironman helmets
Sell them
@@FranklyBuilt oh that’s smart actually, would you sell one to me, or is it something else
how much do you sale you helmet
Sir what is the code of automotive grey titanium
It’s A store bought Rustoleum can. It doesn’t have one
Idk how to get my petg prints to print smooth like that red ironman helmet
It’s very tricky
How durable are these helmets?
What you trying to do with them? They’re cosplay helmets
@@FranklyBuilt Definitely for cosplay purposes. But I've seen some that get cracked simply by holding it against your side
Nah not these
First
Haha nice! But got to ask.. your still single right? or how do you get your wife to be oké with all of this :p
Lol no I’ve been married for 8+ years. You don’t get them to be okay with it. If they love you and are supportive it shouldn’t matter
@@FranklyBuilt haha mine is ok with it... but not with me printing daily (and Almost 24/7 talking about it) hahaha
shout out plzz