Logan Metal Lathe 922 Features and Overview
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ม.ค. 2015
- I go over some of the basic features of this lathe. If you have an old Logan, most of the parts are similar across the model ranges. This lathe features a quick change gear box. This is an 11" swing with a 36" between centers lathe. It has a quick change collet closer and quick change gear box.
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Let me know your thoughts!
Thanks, I'm putting my Logan together and your video was very helpful.
Glad it was of assistance to you!
I have 6 atlas lathes I've restored to sell and finally ran up on a 920 Logan had broken gear box case and both shift handles from a forklift,, found the case and shift handles for 150 bucks payed 300 for the lathe with the legs,, everything in great condition no spindle runout and no end play in any funtion,, this one I'll never sell.
The best thing about these old Logans is the use of high quality ball bearings in the headstock. The flat belt has saved many a lathe during a head crash.
Well said. The only downfall to them is the lack of bronze bushings in the quick change gear box compared to other lathes such as the South Bend's. You can bush them, but not as easy as just changing them out.
Mine has bronze bushings in the QC gearbox.
All the Logan's I've had (6 or 7) did not have bushings. I know a lot of guys bush them out because they wear into the housing and that is the only fix. I'm not sure about the newer lathes, but these older ones didn't originally come that way.
Mine also came with both rest the steady and traveling. I am not much of a machinist. I watch lots of TH-cam videos and have learned a lot.
Glad to hear you are getting the old lathe back up and running and learning as much as you can, take care!
Nice video - would be very handy to have.
If you want your belt to last, raise the lid when not in use or spin the belt off the pulley on one side. The lid put pressure on the belt .the backlash in the hand wheel some of it is gear mesh , bushings can be added where the shafts ride. All the parts can be made on the lathe. Your cutting is definitely not ground to cut . Is it just a plain tool bit set in the holder . Ck out some tool bit grinding videos , Mr Pete has good advise for that. Nice lathe I own the same one had it for forty plus years
Thanks for the video. I learned a little. I’m trying to fix mine and was wondering what kind of motor do you have in your large?
Nice overview. My Logan is the same model as yours 922. Identical all but the S/N. Thanks for the share. Randy
Thanks Randy. I just found your channel the other day and found quite a bit of great content. I am working every day to improve the quality of mine. I do like your DRO setup, and plan on getting it set up sooner or later on mine.
Thanks for the great primer on your 922. I haven't watched the rest of your videos yet, but dealing with the wear on the shafts vs. housing may not be as expensive you're expecting.
Given that the housing is cast iron and the shafts are (probably?) steel, it's a fair bet that the wear is in the softer cast iron. There are two reasons why I think it won't be as expensive as having to replace the castings:
1. It may be fine the way is is. I don't know what Logan's original tolerances were (I have a 955 and haven't been able to find specified tolerances for any part on it yet), but the precise location for the pinion and change gear shafts may not be all that critical. There's quite a bit of backlash inherent in the whole chain of change gears, lead screw, & apron gears to begin with, so even a considerable amount of slop between the shafts and housing might not have any noticeable effect on how well it works.
2. If you decide that the holes are too worn then, assuming there's adequate clearance around them, you can probably bore out the holes, then turn and press in some bronze, brass, or even cast iron sleeves for just a few bucks in materials.
Cheers!
I've long since moved away from this machine. I have on later machines drilled out the casting and installed a bronze bushing that could be replaced if needed. I did this to the apron of a South Bend 10L. In that case both the shaft and the housing were worn. The cast more than the steel, but both still needed repair. The trick with doing the bushings in mounting the casting to allow for proper reaming of a new hold and end up basically where it was suppose to be in the furst place.
I have the exact same lathe. The flat belt drives are great with these to change you pull the pin. If you ever need belt lacing , ill lace them for $10. Plus shipping. I've had mine for forty plus years , 5c collets make it super accurate . I have a 6 jaw chuck on mine plus 3+4 jaw chucks. I wouldn't sell my lathe for $3,500 . It's just that good. No follow rest or center rest but I can make them if needed. I've done lots of customs cleaning rods for shotguns . Good enough I found a guy copying my complete design , down to the handle grooves and knurling. I call that a lazy bastard that can't make his own. But then again it's flattery to my strength of workmanship. You don't need to change a housing for a worn thru bearing , open the hole and rebush the shaft carrier. But yous only needs new bronze bushings for that amount of wear in the qcgb and carriage. I'm working towards cutting gears for used machines , I am down now waiting surgery on spine but then ill be back getting the shop up and producing. I have a small metal planer she will be my star of the shop . I only know of a few in use in the country. God bless you young man , never put your lathe down they have feelings too. LOL
I plan on doing some Gunsmithing myself I’m extremely green when it comes to this sort of thing I did find a Logan 957 any information on that would be greatly appreciated
Should be an ok machine to get going. Just make sure to adjust the gibs and make sure it's as tight as possible and still function nicely.
thats a nice lathe. i do have a question. the extra gear on the banjo. is that ever used. or is it just used as a spacer. thanks.
It is usually used with the most coarse threads available on the gearbox. Most guys never need to cut 4-6 TPI, so it really gets swapped. It would just swap out with the gear on the same stud.
Any experience with the Lever-Matic collet chuck?
not really. I've had the lever style south bend collet draw bars, but no collet chucks.
Nice lathe . I also have a 922 . I have had it for about 10 years . I am getting it back together I broke a gear. The 24 tooth one that is hooked to the forward/ reverser. I have a 3 and 4 jaw for it . I have never had the 4 jaw on. The 3 jaw is on there really tight. I am afraid of breaking something while trying to remove it. Any ideas on how to loosen it up?
You could try getting a strap wrench and wrapping it around the cone pulley. If that fails try the strap wrench and back gears. Use a big crescent wrench on the chuck jaws. You could also try some penetrating oil on the threads where you can get to it. One of those should work. beyond that there is a few more options, but that usually works.
My 11" Logan also had a stuck chuck. And it wasn't going to come off easily. One piece of advice kept coming up as I perused the internet: Do not engage the back gears to lock the spindle! Gear teeth are very likely to be broken. $$$ My Logan uses a V belt instead of a flat belt. I tried to use that V belt as a spindle 'brake'. But no matter what approaches I invented in trying to hold the spindle via the V belt, the belt would slip. An approach that I didn't do (yet) was to chuck up a long hex bar and then use an impact wrench to break the chuck loose. The approach that I 'invented' was to obtain a length of perforated strap iron (like plumber's tape, except the width was about 1 inch and had about 1/2" perforations. I bent that perforated strap around the big gear and used a 3/8 bolt and nut, along with some barrel spacers, and tightened the nuts very snugly. The device I made would bump against the casting and so the gear couldn't turn. Then I chucked up a piece of hex stock and used a wrench to loosen the stuck chuck. After a few tries the chuck eventually released. I developed the opinion, rightly or wrongly, that a person should never use grease or oil on the threads when putting the chuck back onto the spindle. My take is that, after a somewhat lengthy period, the grease oxidizes and becomes something like a glue. I'm thinking that a silicone grease might not have an oxidation (over time) problem.
I have a problem with a logan 200 that if anyone in the thread here could address I would be very grateful
When I attempt to engage the backgear, the pin or knob located in the gear in the headstock just behind the chuck seems to pull out, toward the tailstock, all the way and the lever raises the gear and seems to mesh the gears just fine, but the belt just slips
It's as if the pin or knob doesn't disengage the drive gear from the spindle assembly?
If anyone has any suggestions or could point me toward a resource I will be eternally grateful !
Love ur videos man and will be watching !
Thanx
did you pull the bull pin? Thanks!
What kind of motor do you have in your lathe?
This one I think was a single phase 110v 3/4hp motor.
Lathe*
How much should a guy pay for one?
Seen them range from $800 up to a $2k with a bunch of tooling.