Troubleshooting Craftsman Air Compressor 30 Gallon 6HP| Tripping Breakers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ก.ค. 2024
- Troubleshooting why this old 2004 Craftsman 919.167311, 30 gallon, 6-peak HP, air compressor keeps tripping breakers at startup and after running for a few minutes. Most of the time it will be one of the two capacitors that go bad but I've changed these in the last year.
Updated fix video - • How to Fix Craftsman A...
If you’re ordering parts and need Amazon Prime, there’s a 30-Day Free Trial: amzn.to/3g2GFwI
40uf, 370V Run Capacitor: amzn.to/2UORBCv
165V Start Capacitor 400-480 MFD: amzn.to/35SkALZ
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Part I--- "A" for effort, "D minus" for theory. Here goes- The black cap is a START cap, The silver caps are RUN caps. START caps are rated above 70MFD and have their capacitance in a range . Your Mallory and Packard are 400-480MFD . RUN caps are rated below 70MFD and have an exact capacitance. Yours are 40MFD. Replacement must be exact for RUN caps. START caps have a 10% acceptable tolerance. Voltage ratings of replacement caps can be higher but not lower than original. The "safety switch" at 4:45 is actually the centrifigal switch for the caps. At around 75% of full speed the START cap de-energizes and the RUN cap takes over. If your replacement RUN cap is not exact or is not energizing, the motor will run hot, pop the cap, trip the breaker, or burn up the motor windings. I also noticed @ 4:45 the winding switch is missing the right side contact leaf. Not sure there ever was one on your motor. See Part II
Hello I need help troubleshooting my compressor please
Part II- If the unloader valve is bad it will leave pressure at the head, making the compressor hard to start and trip the breaker. The unloader is what makes the hissing when the compressor reaches its cut out pressure and shuts off. Finally, the arm behind the cooling fins is a counterweight. It smoothes out the motion of the piston. Similar to a harmonic balancer on the front of an engine. Considering your comp starts and runs for a while before it cuts out I would say there's a problem in the centrifugal switch assembly (as long as your replacement caps are correct and wired properly). Oh, and I would confirm the actual contact switch in the cover uses only one contact leaf, and doesn't need two. Cheers.
I have one of those cheap POS (at least I bought it used and got some use from it) and the unloader was indeed bad. I've other compressors so it's a storage tank for the end of long air hoses (at which it works nicely). If I fix it I'll use better parts.
BTW the person directly responsible for ruining Sears is Eddie Lampert, may he smoke cocks in hell (to put it more gently than deserved) when he finally kicks the bucket.
Thanks for making this video . much appreciated and helpful. I almost replaced the pressure switch before I ran across you video. Keep up the great work!
Excellent presentation! I liked the way you explained the situation. Craftsman should guarantee there compressors like they used to guarantee their tools.
I got one of these free from my neighbor because he thought the caps were bad. I found some info online that blamed the switch inside sitting too far from the center that comes out as it spins. I just 3D printed a new one and abs make the switch sit 2mm closer, also the mounting holes were cracking so I made those points thicker everything has been awesome since then.
Would you happen to have the stl file on that? Or a link? Thanks!
What switch too far ?
I believe it’s called an inertia switch. It’s in the plastic cover, opposite the fan. Mine is still going strong
Try lubing up the compressor piston. Mine stopped tripping breakers with a light sanding of the cylinder and wd40
I have one just like it. I knew it was going to be heavy on current draw simply by reading the reviews before buying. I gave it it's own, dedicated 20A circuit, 12 gauge wire, 20A breaker, recep is 6 feet from the breaker. Ran great for years, but now, it has started to trip the 20A breaker on restarts. I haven't checked it yet, but I'm betting on capacitor.
mostly likely the caps, a 20A circuit is plenty for these motors.
Similar problem for years. Trips breaker only on startup... sometimes cold. Compressor is on 1st floor and am now reshingleing roof. I know I"ve got a tripped breaker when the nail gun won't drive in the nail. Off the roof and down the stairs to hit the breaker and it starts up every time. This is my second compressor bought from Sears. My first one had pump issues and I needed another one immediately and got another 30 gal. and had to return it because of an air leak. Replaced it with this one and they run fine until the warranty expired. POS craftsman. I used the old dead pump compressor for a sand blaster sand pot. I've got a great sand blaster now. I think I will find me a 220V 60 gal compressor. Maybe a twin piston. Sorry that your troubleshoot did not work. I was looking for the magic fix. Thanks for your video because you convinced me that I should treat this POS like what it is and get a quality tool.
Check my new video on this. I fixed it. th-cam.com/video/rlCfpDIP5lk/w-d-xo.html
Very educational. I learned a lot about air compressors and possible reasons why my compressor continually trips my breakers.
I have a follow up where I figured out my problem. th-cam.com/video/rlCfpDIP5lk/w-d-xo.html
So I just had the same problem. The switch inside the plastic shroud is what kicks the start capacitor out of the circuit, if you have that sitting too far from the rotating piece inside the shroud it won’t switch from the start capacitor to the run capacitor. On mine the screws holding the shroud broke and it was running on the start capacitor until it burned the capacitor up. I replaced the capacitor, and made some brackets with sheet metal to hold the shroud and switch in the right position. Works like a charm now.
That’s probably why you’ve been burning through capacitors.
This saved me hours of work and frustration with slightly older model of the same Craftsman air compressor doing the same thing. Already tried finding a replacement motor with no luck prior to finding this video. Going to buy a new compressor and put the one I have on a "free stuff" site.
My updated video (link in description) fixed it. I used wrong run capacitor 50UF vs 40UF which was the difference. It threw the balance off which overheats the windings. It runs like a champ now. No more trips.
@@TunerwithKids Thanks for letting me know. I'll see if I can find one of those.
PROBLEM SOLVED----I have a 2002 craftsman oilless compressor since new, did had the same problem after many years of service and had same thoughts about the pressure switch and the capacitors, to make it short did found the problem, after many years of service the contacts on the back motor cover were dirty, something so simple easy to miss, once I cleaned them with very fine sand paper problem was solved, after that i went ahead and bought the two pistons and cylinders kit (mine has 2), after a number of years again started popping the breakers, and again cleaned those contacts and started again with no problem, when you pulled the back cover I saw the contact metals, do clean them and am sure will work, at first I almost threw away my compressor after all the work same as you but saw another video somebody cleaning those contacts so I went back and cleaned them and it worked, 'till this day I still have the same compressor, hope this helps like it did to me.
I figured it out like a year later. I had put the wrong size run capacitor. It needs to be exactly same size as the original to balance the phases. Off balance phase will heat up motor and cause overcurrent.
I had a similar problem with my Craftsman compressor about the same size as yours. Mine tripped the breaker upon startup. A good assumtion was that the starting cap was bad. Not knowing which cap was which, I ordered the running cap instead of the starter cap. After that failed to fix the problem, I bought a capacitor tester online to test the capacitance of the caps. I quickly found that the starter cap was the culprit. I then ordered the starter cap and that fixed the problem. The best practice is to replace a capacitor with the same rating as the old. The manufacturer doesn't matter just the voltage, capacitance range (rated in farads-typically MFD) and farad tolerance percentage. When shopping for a replacement, the physical dimensions are usually noted in the description. The capacitor tester takes the guesswork out of the equation and costs about the same as a capacitor you didn't need.
Just had same issue with my Craftsman.. It does a very slow start for about 3 seconds trips the breaker.. Starter Cap i guess.
Question N. Russell, which one is the starter CAP? I dont have a manual for my Craftsman..
Start is the black cap, usually same voltage as your service. The silver is the run cap, usually 440V.
@@TunerwithKids Thank you Sir..
Hey Tuner try this, in the case that holds the capacitors there is a contact mounted on the bottom, with the cover off press the contact and turn it on, when it starts up release the switch, if that cures your issue than its the broken cover giving you your issue. That switch is closed on start up and when the motor turns the clutch moves in disconnecting that switch.
Same problem . Thank you for your tutorials.
Check my latest video on this. I fixed it!! Stupid error.
Enjoy watching people save and fix stuff
Manufacturing wonts us to buy new ones
I know it’s been three years but I run into the same problem and it was the breaker. In my case it was plug to an outlet with a 15amp. breaker plugged it in an outlet with 20amp. breaker and works🎉 Forgot to mention I replaced both capacitors
I read about the extension cord issue and tried it worked fine straight out of the outlet.
Excellent video I'm having the same issue. I feel confident to tear it down and check the obvious things. Thanks 👍
If you see my update video, it was capacitor size issue. I had wrong size and it threw off the phase balance.
@@TunerwithKids did you get a bigger capacitor or a smaller one? Currently got the same issue
I used a bigger one which is wrong!!! Always match the same size that came out. The run cap is used to phase balance on 1 phase electrical. If the size is off, the phase won't be balanced and overheat.
Yes sir that's what I did. Finally got the part numbers for the start and run capacitor they were a bit pricey but a lot less than a comparable compressor. Thanks for the video
@@824rmrock can you please tell me the part numbers and where you got them from. Thanks
I have a larger version of this compressor and had the same issues, plugged it in to a known 15 amp outlet and it runs like butter. Try plugging it into your washer outlet with no extension and see if it keeps tripping.
I’ve tried several different outlets and even the one 2’ from the breaker. Still trips when the motor gets hot. I think I will try new caps one more time and see if it helps. After that, I’ll probably upgrade or live with it. It’s a pain when I sand blast or paint though.
One more question I tried to look on the better to see how you wired yours did you put the two red on the same side in the brown on the opposite side
Thanks for the the video Binh.. My issue is initial startup it starts really slow for about 3 seconds then it trips the breaker.. Im assuming its the starter CAP so off to the races I go.. Thanks again.
Mine kept popping the gfci , constantly , while running . Used compressed air, blew all the carbon build up from the brushes, off the commutator, and all around the armature. Can't get it to pop the gfci now. Gonna put it to the test tomorrow.
I have a brand-new Harbor Freight (Central Pneumatic) compressor that does the exact same thing out of the box. Lesson learned: Purchase a better compressor next time.
Yea, probably a bad motor or capacitor out of the box. Common issue with 1-phase motors due to require phase balancing to work on 120V. I fixed my issue in this newer video. Runs like a champ now consistently without tripping. th-cam.com/video/rlCfpDIP5lk/w-d-xo.html
Haha....I have the same compressor bought in 2003. Worst investment ever! I'm tired of working on it and have had the same problems as you. I think it's time I just throw in the towel and buy a new one. Great video!
yea...i'm tempted to buy another one and use this as a storage tank.
You can get a LCR meter and measure the capacitors to find out if they are good.
Hi, I have one just like yours. Had it for years and only had to change the belt once. Now it trips as soon as I turn it on. I’ll be checking the capacitors now. Hope this is it. Thanks for the video
Probably the case. Check my newer video on why mine kept tripping. th-cam.com/video/rlCfpDIP5lk/w-d-xo.html
You need a Capacitor tester to check the caps values instead kept buy a new one and also may check your motor brushes. Hope this may help
Yea have thought about the cap tester. I just know that after a few years, they swell and it’s time to replace which usually solves the tripping for a little while. But I suspect after 17 years the motor is probably dieing. This baby used to be a workhorse. Painted cars and everything with it running for hours.
I watched this video attempting to troubleshoot why my same compressor was tripping a breaker. I found that the black case that secures the capacitors was the culprit. that small switch on the inside between the capacitors Has to be in full contact with the motor or it continuously draws too much power tripping the breaker. Just like your compressor the mounting screws for that black plastic peaks were broken. Allowing the capacitor mount to float freely. I was able to secure that plate with a few large zip ties and it has not tripped a breakersince. That was two weeks ago
Brad walker your reply was our problem also when testing new capacitors. Both capacitors tested bad with meter. We replaced both capacitors and had the cover hanging loose to test. With new capacitors Compressor ran until full. We let air out until compressor kicked on. It tripped the breaker. I read your comment about the switch in cover. We mounted the cover and tested. It works normal now with new capacitors and the cover right.
@@scottsheffield2594 awesome glad it helped someone.
That switch is a centrifugal switch that cuts out the start winding when it reaches speed. It is not a safety switch. My compressor motor end cap which holds the capacitors and the switch broke off the end of the motor so that it would start with little pressure in the tank but after it cut off it would not restart and then it would trip. I am rigging up a way to retain the end cap on the motor. The endcap should be made of heavier material so it would not break so easily.
I had same issue found out it was a extension cable issue.
Hi, Thanks for the video. I found out on mine it would trip breaker when it started up and figured out my mistake was using an extension cord. After that no problems starting up or tripping breaker. I have a similar compressor 919.167310 6hp 150 psi compressor. I want to lower the cutout pressure but can't figure out exactly what bit type size is required to do that. Would you happen to know this?
Check my recent video on actually fixing it. I figured out my issue. Link in description box.
Hey how's it going? I have a few questions and tips. What is the amp rating on the motor and what is the amp rating on your breaker? Have you checked to see if your breaker is working properly? Over time breakers loose their capacity as the contacts wear down. The more times it trips the more it wears down. Is your 220 a 30 amp breaker? Because it should be.
Motors over time wear down, the graphite contactors at the bottom of the windings shaft wear down and sometimes get full of dust and stick and the copper plates of the stater? wear down as well. You have to take the motor apart and clean it up and check the connections and make sure there isn't a short internally. Also if the shaft bearings are shot which likely will happen after 16 years then it would cause the motor to over current.
Fun fact, you can take the entire motor/compressor off of your tank and get a new multi piston compressor with a belt driven shaft and hook up any 110 or 220 motor to it. If you're worried about compressions efficiency with a 110v single stage 5 amp motor, all you have to do is change the pulley ratio. Smaller pulley and bigger pulley.
One more thing to troubleshoot is to disconnect the armature for the piston assembly and run the motor. If it doesn't trip then its the compressor itself.
Thanks for the insight. I haven’t thought of it that far. My first inclination was to see if their are replacement motors (there’s not). Aside from that, ideally I’ll probably get by with this until I can find a used industrial 220V IR compressor. Then I’ll use this as a spare storage tank.
Your problem is called a turn to turn short on the run winding on your electric motor. essentially your run and start winding has a short. If you have a meter test your resistance ohms your common to start and run to start resistance will be very similar. New motor needed.
I have a brand new compressor its 20gal, same amps (I wont go into how its smaller, less cfm, more draw despite it being larger..maybe because of the pump being oiled V-2 design..whatever). It will not run on my circuit. It barely gets to 80psi, and once the motor needs to work a little more, it pops the breaker. I am using a HD extension cord, and maybe thats enough, but Im in an old garage, and even though the wiring in fairly new, its still just 15A only. So, Im trying to think of all kinds of cheats on how to lower the draw of the motor...even if that will further decrease perfomance. I do need over 100psi (at least 120 for tires and air system diagnostics). The other stuff? I have to rely on electric tools...
At this point, Im debating cranking up my generator and running the compressor off that, but in the winter, fumes and all...not my idea of fun.
The foam you have stuffed into your intake is to restrictive. Try replacing it with the correct or equivalent air filter.
The start capacitor is the higher voltage not the lower voltage as you mentioned,you need more voltage to start the compressor especially under load,not less.
Not true for these. The 165V, 400-480 MFD capacitor is the start cap. This provides the needed inrush for starting a motor at rest. The 370V-440V 50uF cap is the run capacitor, this mimics the balanced phase for these 120V single phase motors to operate like a 3-phase motor.
Hey there- I had the same trouble with my 22 gallon compressor and a guy told me that as they get older they start to draw more current so what i did
was in connected my compressor to a 120v 12 amp plug and never had amy more trouble. My compressor was about 25 years old and was a craftsman as well. Hope that helps
See my follow up video.
I have the same compressor I have a problem with the original capacitor has 3 wires coming out of it do not know cause the new capacitor has for plugs can you please advise I'm thinking the to red wires go to one side and the Brown wire goes to the other can you help please
I think two of the wires go to the same node/post?
I have a compressor that strart and cuts off straight away and trips the fuse on the extension lead. Would you be able to give me a hint? Checked the capacitors are all good.
It’s always the capacitors. Unless they are brand new, it’s prob a bad run cap.
check induction motor bearings a step you didn't take, they are sealed but as they wear out, the grease leaks out into the armature. It will be as good as new when replaced. I'll confirm this as thats my project for today on mine. POST EDIT: My electric motor is toast the stator windings are shorted...
I was trying to not take motor apart. I wanted to replace the motor but they aren’t common size or mount.
Hello Turner. Hows things going? Can i ask if you definitely have to drain the capacitors? And do you drain them like jumping a starter solenoid on a older car? Thanks for your help.
Just short them. They drain instantly when you short them to remove any potential charge.
@@TunerwithKids by shorting them you mean touch both connections together (+/-) ?
@@93coupes26 yes. Touching the common terminal with the other positive terminals. That's how you discharge the potential energy stored in a capacitor.
@@TunerwithKids Thankyou very much for the info. That compressor worked well for painting mid size cars? I have a 30 gallon 919-165500
It did when new and didn’t trip. We’ve painted quite a car projects with it but with age and tripping breakers it’s not reliable anymore. If you’re serious about paint and reliability, I’d recommend a 60 gallon 240V compressor but those are $700 and requires a special power connection.
I have the same compressor and it stopped working recently. When I check the outer white and black wires at the switch, I have 120 VAC. After the turn on the switch, I check the inner white and black wires, it displays few volts. Is this meant the switch bad?
Sounds like bad pressure switch.
I have a camb Haus 4hp 110 v it pumps up fine till it shuts off at 135 then I use enough air for it to kick back on and it sounds like humming and not spinning and I turned it off immediately,I'm not sure what to do with it, it sounds and runs so nice while it's filling up to 135. Any idea what I should tackle?
Sounds like the motor can’t start. The start capacitor helps with early inrush current.
I tried looking at your video to see how you had it connected I think you have 2/red ones on one side of a capacitor and a brown one on the other post
Sounds right. The reds on one node and brown on the other.
Is it just me? I think we're asking a lot from that 120VAC circuit, on a 6HP motor, especially upon restarts, when it is under partial load to begin with.
These motors aren’t really 6HP, they are barely 2HP. It’s marketing, it peak 6HP just like all the vacuums and other stuff that claim HP.
I'm buying this same compressor for $50 next week however it will not then on. The seller claims he plugged it into a 220v outlet (I am in Germany) with a step down transformer. It turned on and ran for a bit then tripped the breaker. He reset the breaker and then it turned back on for a few seconds then stopped and wont run anymore.
What is the likely problem? Is it possible to test the capacitors? I do have a 20 gal craftsman compressor I can likely swap parts from for testing purposes.
It’s the starting and run capacitors. They go bad after a few years.
Thanks I'll try to swap capacitors and see if it will stop. I was worried that he fried the motor or something by running it on a transformer. You dont think this is part of the issue?
@@Rat3dM if it starts and trips, it’s likely the capacitors.
@@TunerwithKids I bought new capacitors, and the start capacitor blew up again after a minute or so. Any ideas on why it could be blowing capacitors? I'm using a 220v to 110v stepdown converter on 50hz 220v in Germany.
Sounds like the step down is a issue. Did you measure the voltage on step down? Also with the amount of inrush current when the motor starts, you need a pretty large and robust step down. Normal consumer step downs won’t work
Could you show us how you greased up the switch?
I don't recall, but probably just some lithium grease on the moving parts?
I ordered a capacitor with the same specs, but the new capacitor has 3 ends and my old one has 3 wires but no lableing. My question is how do the wires go?
Three ends means it’s an AC condenser cap. It probably had a rating like 40/5 or something like that. One terminal is common and other two are 40 and 5, or whichever numbers I ordered.
Which is common?
The one that has 4 spades. The fan or lower uF has 2 and the higher uF has 3.
Why don’t you switch the contactor? That with the possible capacitor problem seems most likely. I am having the same issues.
I have an updated video that fixed it using the correct sized capacitors.
I have same compressor and sometimes it will not start? Maybe you have the answer? Thank you
Replace both capacitors.
Can you tell me how I can get a shirt like the one you are wearing thanks
check the links in description box. these designs are in my teespring.com store.
tuner-with-kids.creator-spring.com/
I got a campbell hausfeld doing exactly the same thing, keep tripping the breaker once it reach the peak pressure, drives me crazy.
Replace the capacitors.
I have the same compressor but mine dies when it want to turn on to maintain pressure
Replace the capacitors. Check my newer update video on this. My issue was wrong size run capacitor. th-cam.com/video/rlCfpDIP5lk/w-d-xo.html
Great video, where did you buy the capacitors and for how much? Thanks
Check the links in description box. These were for my sized cap. Make sure you get the exact size you removed. My newer video figured out my tripping issues.
@@TunerwithKids I am so sorry, I rarely read the descriptions.
I have a 20 gallon that just won’t turn on? Last time I tried using it it turned in then slowly died , never to turn on again. Any tips? No wires seem to be lose 😢
Replace the capacitors. See links in description and make sure yours are same size/rating. Else get the one that matches your existing.
I have one like that and it starts fine if the air temp is warm, but when it's cool, about 60° or lower, it trips the breaker. If I put it out in the sun to warm up, it starts fine. Any ideas from you or your viewers?
Start capacitor. Replace both. Those are consumable items.
@@TunerwithKids Thanks! I appreciate the quick reply.
Where do you buy the capacitors
Find out what voltage and MFD rating your current ones are and order on Amazon. I have a few links to the ones I use in the description box below.
I have the same compressor! And mine starts fine , but when pressure drops, and it try's to start the motor turns over slowly and trips breaker. Can you help me?
Plus mine needs a cover like yours.
I’d recommend replacing both capacitors and see if it works. It’s $20 or so for both and that’s most common problem. Mine ran fine all the other times I replaced capacitors but recently acted up again. I’m probably gonna try new caps one more time to see it that’s the culprit. Since I infrequently use my compressor, I think that the caps end up going bad.
@@TunerwithKids is the outlet your plugged into a dedicated 15 amp or higher breaker? Meaning- One outlet wired directly to the breaker box? NO other sources on the same power line?
No it’s for half the garage. But I also have a chest freezer attached to the same circuit. The breaker is right there in the garage so it’s a short run.
The problem is with the disk on the armature and the contact switch that it engages with on the plastic cover. I'll attach the link from the article I found on how to adjust the switch. It's not a capacitor problem like I thought too.
www.bobvila.com/posts/41656-6-hp-30-gal-1-stage-compressor-won-t-start-trips-breaker-fyi#reply_top
@@jeffreyeyer1971 I read through all of the post you left the link too but unfortunately I can’t visually comprehend what Steve was saying to fix. Do you happen to have the photos or where the washers needs to go? Or the bottom of the housing that breaks and people push in and fix that’s mentioned on a comment later in the post? Thanks for the post.
I need a hp hose for mine, found air leak by spaying WD 40 in discharge hose and watched where it leaked out running
Mallory is the start
I would advise people to having the problem of a breaker tripping to put a plug in meter in outlet that reads current. A lot of those 12-15 amp rated motors will actually draw 15-20 amps when the compressor starts to load up on air.
20 amp breaker and 12ga wire should be used with a 13-15 amp motor.
I would’ve tried a new breaker at the panel, but that’s just me.
Naw, it ended up being capacitors. Very common issue and I had a follow up video like 1 year after. The run cap needs to be exact value to balance the motor load or it overheats and trips any breaker.
Change your breaker
In short : craftman/ sears should be ashamed of not selling or procuring replacements to the run capacitor. My compressor is slightly different and there used to be a capacitor replacement kit D30107. I am about to just trash that motor and replace it with something from Grainger.
They capacitors are usually off the shelf commodity items that can be purchased anywhere. See links in description for some options. One of the caps is an odd size so I just bought cheapest one and made it work. The correct physical sized one wasn’t worth the extra money.
It's an item that deteriorates over time like brakes. It's an off the shelf item that's easy to find and replace.
I am surprised not to see any attempt of multi meter for troubleshooting.
Hard to measure capacitors with a MM. also, we have over current issues tripping the breaker, so most MM aren’t rated for that high of amps in Current mode.