Hey everyone! Let me know in the comments down below if this video helped your compressor flow better. Feel free to leave a tip 😊💲VENMO: @GarageDynamics
Drilling out the coupling is a bad idea - and you are putting people at risk by recommending this. Just because it's thicker doesn't mean you can make it bigger - the thickness of the coupling was chosen for what pressure it was to see and the metallurgy behind the material chosen - once you weaken that metal by drilling it out and removing material, it is in danger of breaking, or exploding since it's compressed air. That is why you buy high-flow couplings - different metallurgy is chosen for the pressure on the thinner walls. Think about it...
The high flow fitting is aluminum and is thinner, what you say makes sense though, anything diy hasn't been engineered and pressurized air is dangerous.
I agree that he needs to take into account the pressure ratings of these fittings, and then realize how drilling out the inside makes the walls thinner and weaker, and on top of that, drilling a perfectly straight hole is pretty hard even with a drill press, which means your boring could leave a very thin spot on the wall of a fitting that you might not ever see, unlit it’s too late, at which point you’d be lucky to see again at all.
I replaced the large bung that is on the tank itself that is a standard 2.5" inspect port reduced to 1/2" to a 3/4" the part was $19 including shipping. I then ran 3/4" air line around my shop and now I don't have issues with the sand blaster which used to plug up just running a hose from the factory compressor hook up. Also I use short air hose to most tools since there are outlets very close to everything and the tools are noticeably more powerful which is a great side bonus. My favorite part though is no more air hoses all over the ground to roll carts or engine lifts over or trip over. The next project is to do the same with electricity to get rid of the many extension cords all over coming from the only 2 outlets in the shop.
If your tank is anything but brand new, good luck getting that bung off without drilling and carefully cutting it out in pieces. I tried first with a 2ft breaker bar, then put a 3ft pipe over the breaker bar to no avail. Went to the hardware store and bought 6ft of pipe... and still no dice. Tried a propane torch... nothing.
That's a great question nsummy! I actually tried that in the beginning. The reason I went with the pipe fittings is because it creates a tighter angle to save on space. The hose kicked out too far. The second reason is because I didn't want to put too much stress on the hose hanging in a bent position.
Now your gettind somewhere! I have the exact same compressor. I went all ported 3/8" brass from ported stock pressure switch out and ported brass 1/4" nipple from tank to pressure switch. 3/8" flexzilla hose with all high flow fittings/couplers. I found all the 1/4" pipe and fittings had a wide range of inside diameters depending on the brand of fitting. The 3/8" had the closest inside dimensions but you still have to check those too.Great video!
I had a lot of trouble with those purple aluminum fittings after a few more they start to wear out where the ball bearings from the female side grabs it. I am replacing them with the brass ones, and on the female side I'm putting the pressure-release ones which is a great quality of life upgrade for me.
Please tell me you have a playlist or video on using air compressors like what are those gauges whats that air filter doing there like basics abc level.
I'm all for bustin' out the TIG welder (my second favorite tool😂) but why not go with copper or stainless flared tubing at a decent OD size? Benders are cheap and the ID is big and smooth. The internal threads in that Frankennector will mess with flow a bit, too.
Is that a high flow regulator in this video ? or the stock one ? and does a high flow regulator make much difference ? or is most the gain in the fittings .
Dude, you and I have the same air compressor! Craftman 33 gal, 2 HP. Mine just died. Well the engine and tank didn't. It was the galvanized pipe running from the controller to the tank. It cracked a leak, so I carefully tried to remove it and the damn thing separated (threads inside the tank, everything else separated). It was a pretty good compressor. Loud as hell, but pulled her weight.
*Wow, what an excellent video! I learned so much about maximizing airflow from my compressor. The presenter did a fantastic job of testing different methods and presenting the results in a clear and concise manner. The use of two tests to verify the effectiveness of the 45-degree pipe fitting as the best upgrade was especially helpful. The presenter's commitment to thoroughness and attention to detail were evident throughout the video. I highly recommend this video to anyone who wants to optimize their compressor's performance. Thank you for sharing this valuable information!*
Thank you so much for the awesome comment Dexterous X! I'm very grateful for your kind words🙏 It is always my pleasure to serve my community with as much valuable information as I can 😊
I dont know why you feel the need toweld anything at all. However, if you insist on we,ding "pressure" fittings, id recommend first beveling those pieces, especially since you're grinding that weld down afterwards. Even though its only air moving through that, it can still be quite dangerous if those were to fail
plan on doing this to my 150 gal oilless, was your oiless compressor able to keep up with the better flow? My tank and a 2" port on the side for a secondary tank which is the plan to add on auxiliary tank that im prepping for paint and welding on floor brace. Home garage set up light use only, nail guns, 1/4 ratchet, etc
Nice! My tank was able to keep up. I used an Astro Evo T paint gun set around 21PSI and it worked great. Same with my pneumatic impact driver. It doesn't work nearly as hard to remove bolts. Adding the secondary tank is a good idea though. I think I will do that sometime in the future 😁
maybe i'm crazy, but why not just upgrade the fittings and hoses from 1/4 NPT to 3/8 or 1/2 NPT? seems like a lot less work and a safer way to get more airflow, then just neck down to the size of the fitting on the tool.
Not sure if you know, but I'm changing my single stage to a 2 stage compressor pump. My single stage has a fitting from the on/off to the top of the cylinder head. My 2 stage, do not. Is that line needed to turn the unit on/off as pressure is needed. If so, can it be connected on the tank or, another pressure line?
I see that you did it for better flow, but why do you need better flow when your compressor isn't able to keep up stack? What tools and with what applications do you really need over 120psi for just a couple seconds at a time? You honestly would of been better off just changing out your inspection port plug for a wuick connect foe an air line with absolutely zero restrictions.
NO! There is a video on TH-cam where a compressor blew up in a shop by a door. Almost destroyed the shop. He moved his air stuff outside. Rusted tank led to explosion.
The pressure regulator is always the biggest problem, should be of good quality as well as the filter and other parts. 1/2" on all components means that the feed is enough for all machines. The quick couplings make a big difference choose Cejn 320 series for best flow and wear resistance (hardened steel nipples). In some applications it is economical to let the compressor handle the pressure and remove the pressure regulator .
Maybe if you have a much better compressor than that craftsman the high flow fittings make a difference. I have that same craftsman compressor and it flows air faster than it can make it.
Hello Victor Bishara, I wanted to see how much I could improve the system on 1/4 inch fittings. The air hose is 3/8 inch though. I guess I'll have to make another video showing the performance gains of using 1/2 inch fittings on a 1/4 inch system 😂
Never alter those fittings Home Depot or Harbor Frieght sells hi flo fittings and not expensive to save a few dollars you may hurt yourself or family member
I see why the likes are so low now Haha good lord man!!! The title should be "Fixing stupid mistakes you never should have done to begin with" upgrades Lol
I have the same setup, and I added an eighty gallon tank after the main tank. It helped everything work much better. I will also use the tips of this airflow improvement to get even better results. Thank you!
lol, a whole lot of work, time, money wasted for nothing, other than to cause harm if those fittings fail ?. i just have to ask, why in the heck do you need more cfm, when you should know very well, no matter what air tool you use these days ?, most are rated for so much cfm to start with ?!. get smart here bro, you are doing all this for nothing !.
Hope you have good insurance if you plan on selling the fittings you will be sued at some stage. Plus your not a qualified welder so good luck with that LoL
Hate to be the hater but seems like not the best idea messing with high pressure fittings. You're throwing alot of unknown variables and adding more parts as well without adding any safety features. If you really want more power out your compressor just get a scroll or a tank and pressure regulator that has bigger outlet that's rated and tested for it. That being said ima prolly do this for mine lol but only because I put the compressor outside and in the ground otherwise wouldn't risk it. Last thing I need is sum dumbass hitting their truck or something on the compressor and fittings turn to shrapnel. Seen it happen multiple times
Not sure I like the idea of the welding and drilling he did. However, the high flow fittings make a big difference in power when using air tools like die grinders. If you’re just filling tires or running very low CFM tools (less than about 1.5 - 2 as advertised because the advertised rate is about 1/4 the continuous use value) then it probably won’t make much difference. Of course, higher flow means more air used so you either need a compressor with more CFM or expect periodic wait times for the compressor to catch up. I found I needed a true 5 HP unit to run one die grinder and have the ability for the compressor to refill without stopping my work - 3 HP didn’t do it.
Hey everyone! Let me know in the comments down below if this video helped your compressor flow better.
Feel free to leave a tip 😊💲VENMO: @GarageDynamics
I just found you and I have the same air compressor. I’m going to study this and figure out my next steps.thx
@@gergemall Welcome to the channel! Sounds good! 👍
Drilling out the coupling is a bad idea - and you are putting people at risk by recommending this. Just because it's thicker doesn't mean you can make it bigger - the thickness of the coupling was chosen for what pressure it was to see and the metallurgy behind the material chosen - once you weaken that metal by drilling it out and removing material, it is in danger of breaking, or exploding since it's compressed air. That is why you buy high-flow couplings - different metallurgy is chosen for the pressure on the thinner walls. Think about it...
You think about it
The high flow fitting is aluminum and is thinner, what you say makes sense though, anything diy hasn't been engineered and pressurized air is dangerous.
absolutely!
Well said and good advice.
I agree that he needs to take into account the pressure ratings of these fittings, and then realize how drilling out the inside makes the walls thinner and weaker, and on top of that, drilling a perfectly straight hole is pretty hard even with a drill press, which means your boring could leave a very thin spot on the wall of a fitting that you might not ever see, unlit it’s too late, at which point you’d be lucky to see again at all.
Pop your pressure switch off and drill out the outlet fitting inside. Many of them are like a 1/8" hole.
I replaced the large bung that is on the tank itself that is a standard 2.5" inspect port reduced to 1/2" to a 3/4" the part was $19 including shipping. I then ran 3/4" air line around my shop and now I don't have issues with the sand blaster which used to plug up just running a hose from the factory compressor hook up. Also I use short air hose to most tools since there are outlets very close to everything and the tools are noticeably more powerful which is a great side bonus. My favorite part though is no more air hoses all over the ground to roll carts or engine lifts over or trip over. The next project is to do the same with electricity to get rid of the many extension cords all over coming from the only 2 outlets in the shop.
If your tank is anything but brand new, good luck getting that bung off without drilling and carefully cutting it out in pieces. I tried first with a 2ft breaker bar, then put a 3ft pipe over the breaker bar to no avail. Went to the hardware store and bought 6ft of pipe... and still no dice. Tried a propane torch... nothing.
Maybe I am missing something but why do you need a bend at all? why couldn't you have just hooked the hose directly into the filter?
That's a great question nsummy! I actually tried that in the beginning. The reason I went with the pipe fittings is because it creates a tighter angle to save on space. The hose kicked out too far. The second reason is because I didn't want to put too much stress on the hose hanging in a bent position.
Add a coupler straight off the tank for even better flow.
Now your gettind somewhere! I have the exact same compressor. I went all ported 3/8" brass from ported stock pressure switch out and ported brass 1/4" nipple from tank to pressure switch. 3/8" flexzilla hose with all high flow fittings/couplers. I found all the 1/4" pipe and fittings had a wide range of inside diameters depending on the brand of fitting. The 3/8" had the closest inside dimensions but you still have to check those too.Great video!
I had a lot of trouble with those purple aluminum fittings after a few more they start to wear out where the ball bearings from the female side grabs it. I am replacing them with the brass ones, and on the female side I'm putting the pressure-release ones which is a great quality of life upgrade for me.
Please tell me you have a playlist or video on using air compressors like what are those gauges whats that air filter doing there like basics abc level.
Is it worth increasing the pipe i/d from the tank to the switch/pressure gauge as this pipe seem to have a smaller i/d than the high flow couplings?
I'm all for bustin' out the TIG welder (my second favorite tool😂) but why not go with copper or stainless flared tubing at a decent OD size? Benders are cheap and the ID is big and smooth. The internal threads in that Frankennector will mess with flow a bit, too.
Is that a high flow regulator in this video ? or the stock one ? and does a high flow regulator make much difference ? or is most the gain in the fittings .
Dude, you and I have the same air compressor! Craftman 33 gal, 2 HP. Mine just died. Well the engine and tank didn't. It was the galvanized pipe running from the controller to the tank. It cracked a leak, so I carefully tried to remove it and the damn thing separated (threads inside the tank, everything else separated). It was a pretty good compressor. Loud as hell, but pulled her weight.
*Wow, what an excellent video! I learned so much about maximizing airflow from my compressor. The presenter did a fantastic job of testing different methods and presenting the results in a clear and concise manner. The use of two tests to verify the effectiveness of the 45-degree pipe fitting as the best upgrade was especially helpful. The presenter's commitment to thoroughness and attention to detail were evident throughout the video. I highly recommend this video to anyone who wants to optimize their compressor's performance. Thank you for sharing this valuable information!*
Thank you so much for the awesome comment Dexterous X! I'm very grateful for your kind words🙏 It is always my pleasure to serve my community with as much valuable information as I can 😊
I dont know why you feel the need toweld anything at all. However, if you insist on we,ding "pressure" fittings, id recommend first beveling those pieces, especially since you're grinding that weld down afterwards.
Even though its only air moving through that, it can still be quite dangerous if those were to fail
plan on doing this to my 150 gal oilless, was your oiless compressor able to keep up with the better flow? My tank and a 2" port on the side for a secondary tank which is the plan to add on auxiliary tank that im prepping for paint and welding on floor brace. Home garage set up light use only, nail guns, 1/4 ratchet, etc
Nice! My tank was able to keep up. I used an Astro Evo T paint gun set around 21PSI and it worked great. Same with my pneumatic impact driver. It doesn't work nearly as hard to remove bolts. Adding the secondary tank is a good idea though. I think I will do that sometime in the future 😁
maybe i'm crazy, but why not just upgrade the fittings and hoses from 1/4 NPT to 3/8 or 1/2 NPT? seems like a lot less work and a safer way to get more airflow, then just neck down to the size of the fitting on the tool.
Not sure if you know, but I'm changing my single stage to a 2 stage compressor pump. My single stage has a fitting from the on/off to the top of the cylinder head. My 2 stage, do not. Is that line needed to turn the unit on/off as pressure is needed. If so, can it be connected on the tank or, another pressure line?
I see that you did it for better flow, but why do you need better flow when your compressor isn't able to keep up stack? What tools and with what applications do you really need over 120psi for just a couple seconds at a time? You honestly would of been better off just changing out your inspection port plug for a wuick connect foe an air line with absolutely zero restrictions.
NO! There is a video on TH-cam where a compressor blew up in a shop by a door. Almost destroyed the shop. He moved his air stuff outside. Rusted tank led to explosion.
What is that extra attachment on your hose that enables/disables air flow?
Hi MichaelT-ft3cz, That is a 5 in 1 safety coupler. I really like it
whats the benefit of this other than more output on your tools? will your tank fill faster? motor run less?
The pressure regulator is always the biggest problem, should be of good quality as well as the filter and other parts. 1/2" on all components means that the feed is enough for all machines. The quick couplings make a big difference choose Cejn 320 series for best flow and wear resistance (hardened steel nipples). In some applications it is economical to let the compressor handle the pressure and remove the pressure regulator .
Seems like it would be all about volume to me(only as strong as your smallest opening). But what do I know🤷🏻♂️
Maybe if you have a much better compressor than that craftsman the high flow fittings make a difference. I have that same craftsman compressor and it flows air faster than it can make it.
I don't know why one would use 90 or 45 degree bends unless absolutely needed. Doesn't look like they are needed here anyway. Thanks for posting.
How the hell did you get spatter with TIG. Sorry, that "stack of dimes."
Hey dummy, use 1/2in pipe not 1/4 or 3/8ths Drilling out fittings.... what a dumb idea.
You could just get threatened pipe and cut it to size and then weld it that way it's more sealed
I'm looking at a similar Craftsman compressor, are they loud when building pressure?
This will give you a higher PSI, not more CFM.
Why not use 1/2 inch
Hello Victor Bishara, I wanted to see how much I could improve the system on 1/4 inch fittings. The air hose is 3/8 inch though. I guess I'll have to make another video showing the performance gains of using 1/2 inch fittings on a 1/4 inch system 😂
So you drill out the center for more air flow gee how safe NOT dumb idea
Never alter those fittings Home Depot or Harbor Frieght sells hi flo fittings and not expensive to save a few dollars you may hurt yourself or family member
For best airflow there should be nothing smaller than half inch coming out of the tank going into the manifold.
I see why the likes are so low now Haha good lord man!!! The title should be "Fixing stupid mistakes you never should have done to begin with" upgrades Lol
Cool video, thanks. Now add an external tank and send it…😂
Thanks Justin Wilson! Challenge accepted! 🙌😂
I have the same setup, and I added an eighty gallon tank after the main tank. It helped everything work much better. I will also use the tips of this airflow improvement to get even better results. Thank you!
There is no way you can drill out stock fittings to the size of high flow fittings ! I tried it. Just buy the high flow fittings and couplers
How about a big no. Please nobody do this.
easier way is to just build a larger platform on top and put on a more powerful pump with larger cfm
lol, a whole lot of work, time, money wasted for nothing, other than to cause harm if those fittings fail ?. i just have to ask, why in the heck do you need more cfm, when you should know very well, no matter what air tool you use these days ?, most are rated for so much cfm to start with ?!. get smart here bro, you are doing all this for nothing !.
Hope you have good insurance if you plan on selling the fittings you will be sued at some stage. Plus your not a qualified welder so good luck with that LoL
Upgrades on a shitty compressor
Hate to be the hater but seems like not the best idea messing with high pressure fittings. You're throwing alot of unknown variables and adding more parts as well without adding any safety features. If you really want more power out your compressor just get a scroll or a tank and pressure regulator that has bigger outlet that's rated and tested for it. That being said ima prolly do this for mine lol but only because I put the compressor outside and in the ground otherwise wouldn't risk it. Last thing I need is sum dumbass hitting their truck or something on the compressor and fittings turn to shrapnel. Seen it happen multiple times
This is about stupid u might get a few cfm but loose pressure
Id just like to know why? Whats the big fk'n advantage¿! "Faster" "Quicker" air be gone¿🤔😫🕜 I'll never get back😡
Not sure I like the idea of the welding and drilling he did. However, the high flow fittings make a big difference in power when using air tools like die grinders. If you’re just filling tires or running very low CFM tools (less than about 1.5 - 2 as advertised because the advertised rate is about 1/4 the continuous use value) then it probably won’t make much difference. Of course, higher flow means more air used so you either need a compressor with more CFM or expect periodic wait times for the compressor to catch up. I found I needed a true 5 HP unit to run one die grinder and have the ability for the compressor to refill without stopping my work - 3 HP didn’t do it.