I’m try to learn how to sharpen a knife. Like this I bought some dmt stones but I really don’t have a clue is to what I’m doing . To be honest. Great video.
Always learn something new in these vids. I have a magnacut gyuto (from Stuart Davenport) on the way I will have to shoot you a pic of it on bladeforums when it arrives
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY It was very expensive, 550. But Stuart does some impressive work with heat treat and thin grinds. I don’t buy a lot of knives but when I do I treat myself on something I know I’m really gonna like!
@@slalomnorth Well considering it'll more then likely last a lifetime and compared to what some knife makers charge that isn't too bad. Would love to see it.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY thanks. I just figure if I’m gonna buy something like that I don’t mind paying the extra 200 (or whatever) to get it done right. It’s also in .075 stock which is pretty unusual for magnacut. They just started selling that width at USA knifemaker
It doesn't dish too quickly however does need flattening from time to time. Imo best to use concrete pavers or nice flat section of sidewalk for most if not all of the work, if you want you can finish on coarse diamond plate or loose SIC powder on glass to clean that up but not necessary.
I highly recommend the dc5 ceramic from Fällkniven for a finishing stone. It is about 1250 grit, but it gives the best balance between bite and hair whittling sharpness i have found so far. I have the spyderco ceramics, shapton glass hr 3k and 6k and even a translucent from Preyda. None of them gives the edge of the dc5. I prefer using a 2 or maximum 3 stone progression and no strop, so i use only my Naniwa diamond 600 grit and the dc5 at this point. The results have been spectacular.
Wow sorry you cut the tip of your finger off, your keeping it too sharp lol. Love the fine it is my all time favorite. I like your technique of using oil to clean them soap and water to use them I’ll try it. I’ve noticed with magnacut if you have a polished edge already the crystalline has a hard time cutting it, it almost glides in spots. Use the fine crystalline a couple times in a row and it seems to work faster the Second time. I like the bubbles trick too. Great video its good for beginners and long time users alike. Probably represented a classic stone loved by many.
Lol, wasn't too bad of a cut. Yeah if you're gonna use soapy water I think it works best to keep em' clean and working right. I've used the stones on s110v and similar steels on the flats and did ok, just had to use some force. Thanks man, appreciate it.
BTW, you ever try the gritomatic SIC stones? If you like water stones and SIC stones you'd really like em'. The 240, 1k and 2.5K is the best combo imo. I got a set a few years back after I saw JJ using them on his channel, they are really good with higher alloy steels and feel really nice.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY You know I keep hearing good things about them but I’m more of an oil stone guy lol. I have a few water stones and use them occasionally but Hell I even put oil on my Spyderco medium bench stone and my DMT diamond stones lol.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Well I imagine you could use oil on them however I've only used with water so far. They only require a short soak before use, overall really nice feeling stones that work well on higher alloy steels. I think Norway would really like them however would cost an arm and a leg to get a set there.
Not sure I understand the need to use oil and the soap water. Seems like the soapy water would work as a lubricant on it's own without the need for oil.
If you use just soapy water alone and never oil the stones will just keep loading & eventually cut very slowly, so I like to clean them in between uses with mineral oil as it floats the steel to the surface so it can be removed. IMO trying to do this with soapy water alone doesn't work, of course if you use only oil that would be best however then one has to contend with the mess that goes with using oil.
NWKG......Once again, thanks. What wood were you using for the finishing strop? On the Arkies, would you recommend oil, then soap/water and rotate like that? On Shapton Pro, using oil makes cutting more aggressive, then soap/water or no oil at all and no soap/water, just water by itself?
Hey you bet and that is basswood loaded with a couple sprays of diamond. You can however don't really need it like the coarser Norton stones. I would just use water on the shaptons, naniwas etc.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY yes, since thinning need more force and where to place the hand will be oily unlike sharpening where the edge is the only thing contacting the stone and the blade itself will be dry But i guess wiping with paper towel will do the job?
If you're referring to the bevel size it depends on the thickness of the blade and what angle it's sharpened at. The blade is fairly thin on this however since I sharpened it at a very low or acute angle that really widened the bevel. Had I sharpened it at say 20 degrees the bevel would be quite small.
cool vid man. is the 220 kuromaku also a combo of sic and aox? or just the 320? i got the 220. im guessing this norton cuts better. have you used the norton waterstones on 220 or 1k? i believe the 220 is sic also? anyway thanks.
Hey thanks, been a bit since I used that one but don't think so. To be honest I don't even think the newer 320 kuromaku are SIC / AO mix anymore just the older pro series but could be wrong. If you want a real beast of a cutter try the Sigma Power Select II, releases abrasive a bit too fast with softer steels however very good on harder to grind steels (the 240 and 1K stones) are SIC.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I have the 240. Those are green SiC and beastly waterstonees. Issue is I also have a stone fetish lol. For whatever reason I never got kuromaku/sp in the lower grits, which in retrospect seems quite dumb. So I just ordered the 220 off Amazon Japan for like $33. Same cost as crystolon. Also I know the 220 naniwa traditional is also a SiC stone and its like $20 great stone, cuz chosera only goes down to 400 grit. Also I'm almost certain the 220 Norton water stone is also SiC. I think the 220 debado is also SiC but I don't have that as it's expensive.
Such simple and fantastic stones for the price. Makes me question my expensive choices when it comes to sharpening equipment.
Dude you cut that paper towel clean as hell with a 320 grit stone lol woooo
Yeah, it took a good edge for sure off that. Some good steel! :-)
Just what I needed
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Thank you for the video 🤩 😘
Thanks buddy! 👊👊👊
I’m try to learn how to sharpen a knife. Like this I bought some dmt stones but I really don’t have a clue is to what I’m doing . To be honest. Great video.
What are you sharpening? And thanks!
Always learn something new in these vids. I have a magnacut gyuto (from Stuart Davenport) on the way I will have to shoot you a pic of it on bladeforums when it arrives
Thanks and what did that set you back if you don't mind me asking? Would love to see a pic!
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY It was very expensive, 550. But Stuart does some impressive work with heat treat and thin grinds. I don’t buy a lot of knives but when I do I treat myself on something I know I’m really gonna like!
@@slalomnorth Well considering it'll more then likely last a lifetime and compared to what some knife makers charge that isn't too bad. Would love to see it.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY thanks. I just figure if I’m gonna buy something like that I don’t mind paying the extra 200 (or whatever) to get it done right. It’s also in .075 stock which is pretty unusual for magnacut. They just started selling that width at USA knifemaker
@@slalomnorth Will have to take a look at some of his work on IG.
Just ordered this stone after seeing this video. How do you keep it flat though ?
It doesn't dish too quickly however does need flattening from time to time. Imo best to use concrete pavers or nice flat section of sidewalk for most if not all of the work, if you want you can finish on coarse diamond plate or loose SIC powder on glass to clean that up but not necessary.
I highly recommend the dc5 ceramic from Fällkniven for a finishing stone. It is about 1250 grit, but it gives the best balance between bite and hair whittling sharpness i have found so far. I have the spyderco ceramics, shapton glass hr 3k and 6k and even a translucent from Preyda. None of them gives the edge of the dc5. I prefer using a 2 or maximum 3 stone progression and no strop, so i use only my Naniwa diamond 600 grit and the dc5 at this point. The results have been spectacular.
Thanks, will keep that in mind.
Wow sorry you cut the tip of your finger off, your keeping it too sharp lol. Love the fine it is my all time favorite. I like your technique of using oil to clean them soap and water to use them I’ll try it.
I’ve noticed with magnacut if you have a polished edge already the crystalline has a hard time cutting it, it almost glides in spots. Use the fine crystalline a couple times in a row and it seems to work faster the Second time. I like the bubbles trick too. Great video its good for beginners and long time users alike. Probably represented a classic stone loved by many.
Lol, wasn't too bad of a cut. Yeah if you're gonna use soapy water I think it works best to keep em' clean and working right. I've used the stones on s110v and similar steels on the flats and did ok, just had to use some force. Thanks man, appreciate it.
BTW, you ever try the gritomatic SIC stones? If you like water stones and SIC stones you'd really like em'. The 240, 1k and 2.5K is the best combo imo. I got a set a few years back after I saw JJ using them on his channel, they are really good with higher alloy steels and feel really nice.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY You know I keep hearing good things about them but I’m more of an oil stone guy lol. I have a few water stones and use them occasionally but Hell I even put oil on my Spyderco medium bench stone and my DMT diamond stones lol.
@@AaronJohnson1979 Well I imagine you could use oil on them however I've only used with water so far. They only require a short soak before use, overall really nice feeling stones that work well on higher alloy steels. I think Norway would really like them however would cost an arm and a leg to get a set there.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY jupp i would love em im sure but dang expensive yes
Not sure I understand the need to use oil and the soap water. Seems like the soapy water would work as a lubricant on it's own without the need for oil.
If you use just soapy water alone and never oil the stones will just keep loading & eventually cut very slowly, so I like to clean them in between uses with mineral oil as it floats the steel to the surface so it can be removed. IMO trying to do this with soapy water alone doesn't work, of course if you use only oil that would be best however then one has to contend with the mess that goes with using oil.
NWKG......Once again, thanks. What wood were you using for the finishing strop? On the Arkies, would you recommend oil, then soap/water and rotate like that? On Shapton Pro, using oil makes cutting more aggressive, then soap/water or no oil at all and no soap/water, just water by itself?
Hey you bet and that is basswood loaded with a couple sprays of diamond. You can however don't really need it like the coarser Norton stones. I would just use water on the shaptons, naniwas etc.
Can i thin knives using this stone i'm just afraid it will be hard to thin with oil
Sure you can. Why do you say that, because the oil will make the knife slippery?
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY yes, since thinning need more force and where to place the hand will be oily unlike sharpening where the edge is the only thing contacting the stone and the blade itself will be dry
But i guess wiping with paper towel will do the job?
Just keep a clean paper towel on hand and wipe after each time to change sides and try not to thin with a razor sharp knife.
Why do some knives have a bold large cutting edge, like this one, but some knives have a thin one?
If you're referring to the bevel size it depends on the thickness of the blade and what angle it's sharpened at. The blade is fairly thin on this however since I sharpened it at a very low or acute angle that really widened the bevel. Had I sharpened it at say 20 degrees the bevel would be quite small.
cool vid man. is the 220 kuromaku also a combo of sic and aox? or just the 320? i got the 220. im guessing this norton cuts better. have you used the norton waterstones on 220 or 1k? i believe the 220 is sic also? anyway thanks.
Hey thanks, been a bit since I used that one but don't think so. To be honest I don't even think the newer 320 kuromaku are SIC / AO mix anymore just the older pro series but could be wrong. If you want a real beast of a cutter try the Sigma Power Select II, releases abrasive a bit too fast with softer steels however very good on harder to grind steels (the 240 and 1K stones) are SIC.
@@NORTHWESTKNIFEGUY I have the 240. Those are green SiC and beastly waterstonees. Issue is I also have a stone fetish lol. For whatever reason I never got kuromaku/sp in the lower grits, which in retrospect seems quite dumb. So I just ordered the 220 off Amazon Japan for like $33. Same cost as crystolon. Also I know the 220 naniwa traditional is also a SiC stone and its like $20 great stone, cuz chosera only goes down to 400 grit. Also I'm almost certain the 220 Norton water stone is also SiC. I think the 220 debado is also SiC but I don't have that as it's expensive.
hey buddy , bess sharpness.... which is the sharpest the higher or lower the number 👊
Hey man, the lower the better.
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Good video mate 🙂
Hey thanks man.