You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Ralph Ahmed Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Yeah, It’s actually pretty dangerous to tighten the nozzle with heat and power applied to the hotend. I found out I had exposed wires from the heater cartridge by my wrench holding the heater block sparking on the wires that pulled back from the insulation. So now with V6 style I heat it with the soldering iron.
Having a little bit of engineering experience, I can confirm that every once in a while ideas do start out as an obvious joke that actually ends up giving promising results
wow wait! There was a cool tip on measuring distance between holes that you just blasted right through. I love how concise you are with these videos, but coming from someone who does a lot a design for functional parts these are the little gems that got me watching all your videos.
7:34 Yeah, they teach this in the first week of highschool freshman Drafting class. Probably my favorite class. Learned so much in that class, I was able to skip college and become a blue spring reader for Local 4 Brick Layers and Allied Craft Workers.
Hey Angus! Big fan here :) Your videos are always awesome. I appreciate the shoutout for Kim's Kickstarter!~ I'm one of the merchants for campaign 1 and 2. Cheers!
I had a serious problem with E3D Volcano hardened nozzle, heat break, and the aluminum heat block. The issue is that all three part are different metals that expand and contract at different rates. It would cause leaks at the top of the heat block after a few print jobs. I chased this issue replacing all the parts multiple times until E3D suggested I switch to the copper block. It's a miracle, no leaks and no jams for two years now. If you have issues with heat creep, jams, or leaks, switch out the heat block to copper.
Always a good show. Thanks Angus and I also watch 3D Printing Nerd. Still on a learning curve with Nylon fails and my X1 Sidewinder. Cheers from Perth.
Welcome to the club. My TRONXY 500x500x600 came with wrong cables, missing parts that I had to order to get correct parts before I could even start a print. Dual extruder cable was way too short for second extruder. When I got the longer cable it did not work until I copued the wiring colours from one to the other and swapping pin locations. Angry with TRONXY Quality Control but once I ironed out the bugs, make great PLA prints on glass bed. I had to switch to glass as the hot end burned a hole in the buildtech sheet. Trying to get setting right for PETG is another trial and error stringy mix. I see that every delivered 3D Printer is a starting point and each owner upgrades it as needed to get the best printer possible.
As Barnes Built said, using a step bit is great. If you don't have one, don't use "progressively larger" bits, you'll just damage the bits, chipping and dulling them. Use a 1/8" (3mm?) for the pilot hole then go straight to the bit for the final size of the hole. Anything else and you wind up with bits trying to cut sharp edged metal starting from the middle of their cutting edge and you'll chip them there and quite possibly at their outer edges as well. Just a tip from a fabricator, take it or toss it.
Love this type of video. I have several 3d printers now and to be honest I get more fun out of modifying them than actually running them. So far I haven't tried either the Hemera or the BIQU version but have done several mods to convert to DD.
I took this idea from you and did this upgrade last year. Used the SKR 1.3 board and display. Used two HP 1200w power supplies in series and a 5v power to make an awesome printer.
Love the new bits for the music rig. Would love to see a video on your whole setup (equip, and what software you're using). Absolutely loved the piece you did for Joel.
I got one for my Ender3 a little over a year ago and apart from over tightening one of the screws on the stepper motor that mounts the print cooling fan and breaking the thin bit of metal it has been a great improvement over the stock hot end. I have not tried any nylons or super flexible filaments yet, which was partly why I decided to buy one, but for PLA it has been working great.
I am new to the channel and 3D printing. I found your channel as I saw your qidi x-plus review and bought one. I am having trouble with the high temp extruder but they are sending me another one. Love the channel.
Thin stepper motors are fine until they got hot and begin missing steps even with Duet WiFi drivers at 24V. It was smart move. And Trianglelab clone is better as for me due to they solved problem of easy changing nozzle block.
I’d love to see Angus try a custom DIY printer build the likes of VzBot, Voron or RatRig. I’d always thought I knew what his answer would be, as he normally focuses in the end-user’s perspective of a product and that, as an industrial designer, he sees 3D printers as tools to “empower creativity through technology” rather than the meta hobby. But the sometimes videos like this or his 3D printer inside a prop scratch build pop up, which are more in line with the DIY meta community. Anyway, I’d just love to see Angus’s reaction to use a VzBot at max speeds :)
You nailed a few good points about the Hemera....the lack of part cooling solutions / BL Touch mounts have prevented me from upgrading more machines to it. The mounts I have seem for the CR-10S, for example, seemed really wiggly and lacking.
I had a hell of a time getting their extruder to properly grip the filament. After a month of tweeking with it trying to get it to work, I decided the tensioner was way too finicky for me and promptly went back to my bondtech extruder on my main printer and haven't looked back. Edit: wow, that frame is super flimsy. It badly needs some bracing, you can see the whole frame moving back and forth while you're printing. Also, I put the DDX on my nephew's ender 3 and it's awesome.
@@MakersMuse Maybe you can print some snap-on braces that would tension the legs against the table top. If the legs are stiff, it won't wobble. Or just replace the folding joints with some better joint that probably already exists.
Thanks for this episode. I am currently upgrading my Anet A8 to print with 0.2mm nozzle and concidered himera as an option. In the end, I went with a clone of Titan Aero geared direct drive which was a much cheaper option (about 18€ extruder + heatsink). I yet have to finish the build..
Looking forward to more of your 3D printing videos, great mods! (Maybe to help with cooling you need more cooling fans? As for the mysterious filament jamming it could be the hemera's early production errors losing torque. Otherwise, a temperature and humidity soaked problem where the filament needs to be baked and printed at above normal pla temps. Additionally, perhaps a filament spool holder/feeding at that height bends the oversized bowden tube that it cannot feed smoothly anymore.idk hope these well intentioned guesses help.)
I know this video was a while ago - but I just had an experience that may explain your headless cats. Printing the cat with a silk type pla. I was using a JAXA heat box as the filament holder - I'd been printing some wood filled filament that I kept dry at 50C and just added the silk rather than switch holders. Every now and then the filament roll would jump - waking me up from my chair where I was watching with my eyes closed. Careful watching found that the roll would creep UP the forward roller which means the filament was unable to release from the spool. Only issue I could see is that one winding of the filament was against the adjacent filament for about an inch and then separated slightly - until the filament would release from the adjacent filament and the roll would slam back into position and unroll about half a winding before it stopped. I suspect the manufacturer wound the roll at temperature and the filament windings would occasionally stick together. Complaints about filament tangling is probably this problem - not tangling but sticking together. When I have the inclination I think I'll transfer the remaining filament from this roll to another roll and see if there are any hang-ups. But I thought you might want to know - a reason why one filament creates headless cats and another doesn't - basically the manufacturer lost control of the temperature during winding and it occasionally got too high. If it's during winding I'm willing to bet is kind'a periodical - explaining why the printing stopped at close to the same place.
ohhhhh snap, thats were all my shipments went, i get notifications telling me theyre in the country then they dont show up til months later than the estimated delivery date
@@MakersMuse Custom long thin bowden hotend + linear rail mount to get a few cm more x axis and turn the whole top frame with the motors upside-down so motors are on the top to get a few cm more z. print volume will be ~28*23.5*24
@sigmatechnica what firmware are you running and any tips for customizing print settings? Acceleration updates thru Start G-Code in prusa Slicer seem to take.
I have the same "glass lattice" thing from tronxy and nothing would stick until I roughed up the surface, it now prints PLA with a 50deg bed though YMMV so try lightly sanding with P60 sandpaper on the bed don't go too hard just make sure there are lines, 240 didn't seem to work
Great video, but I was never a fan of the Hermera and the E3D hotends in general. On the Hermera, the heatsink that would normally be used to only keep the cold zone cold is now also keeping the stepper motor (which produces a ton of heat) cool. Just unnecessary. It may work, but the heatsink wouldn't have to be as big if it wasn't also having to dissipate the heat from the stepper motor. E3D just seems stuck with the V6 heatbrake design and refuses to do anything better. I absolutely despise the loose hot block, having to hold the block while tightening the nozzle. And the fact that because the heat brake is the only thing attaching the block to the heatsink, you have to balance strength with trying to reduce heat transfer as much as possible. The result is always a compromise between being too weak and likely breaking if you have any sort of nozzle crash at all, or too thick and doesn't do its job as a heat brake well. The Mosquito, Dragon, DragonFly etc are all amazing hotends, more compact than the V6 with a better heat sink design (quite a bit smaller), and because the heat brake is no longer structural on those, it can have much better thermal properties because it's much, much thinner. And to top it all off, one handed nozzle changes. I wish E3D would do something different. They're a great company and I support them where I can (I always buy the E3D Copper Plated Nozzles), but their hotends seriously leave something to be desired IMO. The E3D V6 was great in its time, but there are much better solutions out there these days.
Hey, thanks for your honest comments and for supporting us where possible. All we can say is that big things are on the horizon, watch this space, we hope we'll be able to blow your socks off later this year. Thanks, E3D
@@E3DOnline @BladeScraper This seems like a really genuine, constructive interaction between a consumer with valid criticisms, and a manufacturer who is doing their best to innovate in a new space. You love to see it, and it's great that content creators on YT like @Maker's Muse are able to facilitate it! One of my favourite things about 3D printing is that even relative outsiders/amateurs can and do have brilliant ideas and breakthroughs. It might be the most communal, globally developed technology ever!
That caliper trick to find center-to-center was slightly mind-blowing for me. You glossed over it like it was nothing! Oh the tricks you see on TH-cam videos...
7:20 For as much as I dislike many aspects about your content, I have to admit that, unlike other "makers" here on youtube, you are actually professional and I'd like to thank you for providing actually useful professional tips. Usefulness of your tips, even though many are not able to realize it, is at least two orders of magnitude more useful than the next best content. Sincerely thank you.
I've done a similar mod to my Sapphire Pro and it went from being a terrible and unreliable 3d printer to a great machine. The first things I did was replace the original firmware with a version of marlin, replaced all the noisy fans, replaced the stock PEI sheet with a creality magnetic bed and replaced the stock rigid lead screw coupler. Then I tried to upgrade the shitty hotend with an E3D v6, but the prints were still unimpressive and inconsistent. I decided I wanted to upgrade to a light direct drive extruder, so I bought a titan aero conversion kit. To avoid reducing the build volume too much I flipped the entire top plate upside down, to have the linear rails, belts assembly and mtotors on the top. I also inverted the x axis rail, to have that on the top too. The last mod I did was adding an auto leveling probe, to bypass the crappy and unreliable z endstop. I would like to stiffen up the bed frame to make it less wobbly and build some sort of cover to hide and protect the belts. But even as it is right now it's a great printer, and MUCH MUCH better than before.
Nice! The Sapphire Pro is SO similar it's almost the same printer. It also got panned heavily by reviewers so great to hear it's redeemable with a similar upgrade, though sounds like it was a fair bit more effort!
Can you do a video about the Anycubic Mega Zero, i recently bougt one and like to hear your view/ comments on it.... maybe even tips on how to get it in to top shape?
One thing to try to address that clogging with PLA is to make sure you have good thermal paste application With the heat break. I under did it and got heaps of clogs, but fine now fixed. I think the clogs happen on retract which makes sense on the chin because you’re doing travel moves between the two zones (body and chin). Also a part of the model with heaps of perimeter and not much infill, ie worse for heat creep.
My solution for inadequate cooling performance due to the bed heater was to simply set the temperature to 30° after the 1st layer. The reason I don't turn it off completely is because the room temperature is about 10°. Edit: Have only tried this with a paper tape bed and PLA. Not sure if this works with any other material.
Yeah, I do this for many of my other printers but with the ceramic coated glass beds, they "self release" at lower temperatures so you can't turn them down much.
I really hope E3D decides to sell the drive components separately. I bought a few of these for my printers and I like to keep backup parts, but due to the issues E3D was having, they do not sell the drive components as a separate purchase. They do sell everything else as separate components.
Can you do a review of the creality ender 5? I am thinking of buying that but you are really the only person I trust to review 3d printers and for 3d printing advice
I've fitted a Hemera to my Ender 5 plus and now it will print anything at default cura PLA speeds or faster , Using the default cura speed of 80mm/s I've printed TPU and PETG where before I would have had to really slow it down to 30mm/s for PETG and TPU just wouldn't print reliably. Since I've had the Hemera I've had just 1 jam which I think was cause by my dry box ? , I had to remove the heater or thermistor , and them unscrew the heat block and heat break , all while still connected to the printer FUN. Yes , I think printing at high speed does cause a lot of ringing with the extra weight , but for functional part that isn't a problem , just slow the print down a little and it will print like glass.
I did a bondtech conversion and used a MicroSwiss all metal hotend. It was an easy swap. My problem and I believe yours with this printer is the bed wobbles way too much and needs more support.
Stringing is part for the game for flexibles? Try the "NinjaFlex Profile - Zero Stringing - Flawless Print " from prusaprinters on your MK3/MK3S. I'm basically printing TPU flawlessly like PLA with that profile. I can fill the buildplate with TPU prints and i won't get a single wispy string. With the hemera you definately should not be getting any stringing, as the system is almost made for printing TPU. Also, if your CF Nylon has a "really rough surface finish" it's probably wet. CF nylon doesn't really string that bad, but it gets a really rough surface finish when it's wet.
Great profile, thanks. Doing some tests now based off it and also trying external perimeters first - much better on the benchy now trying the wheel again. The rigid ink PA12 CF really is that rough, and actually a little too stiff (you can snap the filament on the roll), I dry it for quite a while before printing.
Hey Angus, great project! I own a D01 too, with a similar mod: the stock titan extruder mounted on the X carriage to make it direct extruder, and it works very well! PS: I tested the thermal protection by pulling the sensor cable, and it has it, so that's out of the way! Cheers! PS2: The failure on the cat may be related to the temperature PID: on my machine, it had a +/- 10 C oscillation: this may cause it to swing too hi and then too low when there's a change in flow rate.
I have this printer with the same mod. I had the same issue with the +/- 10 C oscillation. Made a few PID tunning, and now have only +/- 5 C, example 200° oscilate between 198° and 203°. But still have a problem with layer shift sometimes, especially on some tiny infill areas. The belts are tight, all the machine has litium grease on the rails, steels rods and acme rod. I'm trying with the acceleration and jerk values. My actual values are 1000 acceleration and jerk, and print speed 40/50mms almost time. Do you have layer shift any time?
@@L3chuckk Hi Diego! I had layer shift problems before, I solved them by lowering the jerk speed (I used a guide, i think on Prusaslicer or Slic3r, but many slicers have guides to set this up) I use 10mm/s of Jerk on an i3 build I have, but on the D01 we should be able to use higher jerk speeds. Cheers!
Nickel plated? They were not screwing around, eh? Nickel is what the blades of jet engines are made of, because it doesn't absorb heat easily (so doesn't expand much) and is rock-solid tough (those blades grind birds into mush without damage [except when multiple large birds end up there, when the airflow and fuel cannot pass easily enough nevermind burn]). It's why certain trumpets can play outrageously loud even with a small bore size like the Conn Constellation - Nickel and Nickel plated in some parts. It's so tough it's an outrageous pain in the backside to machine and bend to make such horns!
Yep i had similar issues with Filamentum PLA. I found that due to low clearances in the heatbrake, if you retract and then extrude only small bits of filament before retracting, the filament gets stuck in the heatbrake.
When you get a roll of PLA that inexplicably prints best at 240C (No, I didn't accidentally order PETG, I checked the spool, packaging, and amazon listing)
@@MakersMuse I were so confused ordering 2.85 mm transparent PP when needing 1.75 mm. Or the description were changed. So send it back to Amazon. Now I am waiting again for a order, but from an austrian (!) not australian distributor. Also a prints fixing tool with hot tips.
UPDATE: It turned out I was being ignorant because I am new to 3D printing and blamed the filament far too quickly. The issues I was having (horrible under extrusion) quickly came back even at that high temperature and it turned out the hot end PTFE was not installed correctly. I reinstalled it and it fixed the issue, allowing me to make beautiful prints at a much more reasonable 210 degrees C. My machine is a Prusa mini+ and I am using Hatchbox PLA. If anyone has similar issues on this machine try following Prusa’s guide on replacing the hot end PTFE (except just reinstall the original PTFE unless it is wrecked obviously)
I actually observed very similar issues as you did where the filament repeatably wouldn’t extrude at a certain height. I also used a hemera and only had this issue with my white filament, so I assume that it may be due to the white needing more pigment? Nevertheless the solution for me was to clip a microfiber cloth soaked in a little bit of cooking oil on the filament. I also would be interested in why exactly this happens as it seems to be unique to the hemera...
Cetus 3d printers don't have thermal runaway protection either. Try unplugging the hot end thermistor, it'll start heating uncontrollably and continue until the heater burns itself out.
What a painful to make vlog, breathe easier it's over and your new love / hate relationship can begin. What music are you working on? I would love for makers muse to have a theme song or opening jingle! I definitely caught your new tolerance guage and can't wait to buy/print it!
![ออร่า (AURA) - JUEPAK feat. SARAN | [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RY9j7Lzp-FI/mqdefault.jpg)
OH MY GOSH!!!! #makersmuse THANK YOU for featuring my Mayan Temple in your video today!!!!!
Eyyyy it's a nice model, I don't blame them for using it, good job!
Nice!
Absolutely beautiful model! You did a fantastic job! Can't wait to see what else you do.
You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Ralph Ahmed Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
When drilling larger holes, try using a step drill bit. They leave a clean hole and nice chamfer after ☺️🤙🏼
I use a soldering iron to hot tighten nozzles on the bench, just need a tip that fits the heater hole pretty well , set temp and tighten.
Huh, pretty handy tip! Safer too.
Yeah, It’s actually pretty dangerous to tighten the nozzle with heat and power applied to the hotend. I found out I had exposed wires from the heater cartridge by my wrench holding the heater block sparking on the wires that pulled back from the insulation. So now with V6 style I heat it with the soldering iron.
Smart
Thanks for sharing that tip!
Now that is an idea. Create a workstation that heats a cartridge for assembling heater blocks/nozzles on the bench.
Little known fact, the heat sync is actually modeled after Sanjay's hair. directing the air away from the print was just a happy accident.
haha it's uncanny!
Having a little bit of engineering experience, I can confirm that every once in a while ideas do start out as an obvious joke that actually ends up giving promising results
RIP Sanjay, you were an amazing guy.
Woot, you featured my friends dice towers! I have been a huge fan of your show for a couple of years. Thanks
Well done for holding your ground of fundamental safety protections like thermal runaway. So many unaware buying these budget printers!
i am really happy to see one of these "upgrading a cheap" printer videos from you.
And i share they the love-hate relationship to tronxy with you ;)
Holy smokes! That hole center to center caliper trick is going to be such a time saver for me! Thanks!
It's easier to just measure from the inner most side of one hole, to the outer most side of the other hole
wow wait! There was a cool tip on measuring distance between holes that you just blasted right through. I love how concise you are with these videos, but coming from someone who does a lot a design for functional parts these are the little gems that got me watching all your videos.
Definitely! I measure distances between holes all the time, and didn't know about this trick!
7:34 Yeah, they teach this in the first week of highschool freshman Drafting class. Probably my favorite class. Learned so much in that class, I was able to skip college and become a blue spring reader for Local 4 Brick Layers and Allied Craft Workers.
I do believe the E3D Hemera will be my first upgrade to my Anet A8Plus! Great review, THANKS!
Not anything related to the video, but I just wanna say I love your channel. Been watching it since I got interested in 3D Printing about 3 years ago
Thanks! 3yrs feels like eons ago.
You are obviously passionate about 3D printing! Excellent presentation!
I happened to be able to snag a hemera when they were scarce and I been using it for like 6 months and it works like a champ.
Hey Angus! Big fan here :) Your videos are always awesome. I appreciate the shoutout for Kim's Kickstarter!~ I'm one of the merchants for campaign 1 and 2. Cheers!
Yet another great review Angus. Always fun and informative watching your videos. Keep up the great work!
I had a serious problem with E3D Volcano hardened nozzle, heat break, and the aluminum heat block. The issue is that all three part are different metals that expand and contract at different rates. It would cause leaks at the top of the heat block after a few print jobs. I chased this issue replacing all the parts multiple times until E3D suggested I switch to the copper block. It's a miracle, no leaks and no jams for two years now.
If you have issues with heat creep, jams, or leaks, switch out the heat block to copper.
Always a good show. Thanks Angus and I also watch 3D Printing Nerd. Still on a learning curve with Nylon fails and my X1 Sidewinder. Cheers from Perth.
$100, with a good extruded, a motor AND hot end? Heading to Amazon now
Welcome to the club. My TRONXY 500x500x600 came with wrong cables, missing parts that I had to order to get correct parts before I could even start a print. Dual extruder cable was way too short for second extruder. When I got the longer cable it did not work until I copued the wiring colours from one to the other and swapping pin locations. Angry with TRONXY Quality Control but once I ironed out the bugs, make great PLA prints on glass bed. I had to switch to glass as the hot end burned a hole in the buildtech sheet. Trying to get setting right for PETG is another trial and error stringy mix. I see that every delivered 3D Printer is a starting point and each owner upgrades it as needed to get the best printer possible.
I have a wild suggestion , but try building a Voron as a long term project for channel . It would fun for you too.
I really want to, but it's a huge time investment that I don't have currently. Maybe in future...
As Barnes Built said, using a step bit is great. If you don't have one, don't use "progressively larger" bits, you'll just damage the bits, chipping and dulling them. Use a 1/8" (3mm?) for the pilot hole then go straight to the bit for the final size of the hole. Anything else and you wind up with bits trying to cut sharp edged metal starting from the middle of their cutting edge and you'll chip them there and quite possibly at their outer edges as well. Just a tip from a fabricator, take it or toss it.
Love this type of video. I have several 3d printers now and to be honest I get more fun out of modifying them than actually running them. So far I haven't tried either the Hemera or the BIQU version but have done several mods to convert to DD.
Fates end dice tower!! Absolutely amazing towers.
Super glad to hear cutting down a bit on the sauce.
That shit can really change you and carry away with things.
Take care homie
That dice tower is ridiculous detail! Great video
I took this idea from you and did this upgrade last year. Used the SKR 1.3 board and display. Used two HP 1200w power supplies in series and a 5v power to make an awesome printer.
nice!
I let Kim at Fates End know you used her Mayan dice tower and she was very pleased
Awesome, I just backed the campaign because the others look incredible too.
Great job from a guy who really knows the ropes. Cheers!
only 20 seconds in and very excited. I purchased a D01 and it makes great prints for the most part but definitely has room to improve.
Love the new bits for the music rig.
Would love to see a video on your whole setup (equip, and what software you're using). Absolutely loved the piece you did for Joel.
Thanks for your hardwork, and your sponsors! Good information!
very nice account of fixing a printers issues. I hope this trends for you and it leads to enclosed printer modifications and high end filaments.
I got one for my Ender3 a little over a year ago and apart from over tightening one of the screws on the stepper motor that mounts the print cooling fan and breaking the thin bit of metal it has been a great improvement over the stock hot end. I have not tried any nylons or super flexible filaments yet, which was partly why I decided to buy one, but for PLA it has been working great.
I put a Hemera on my Formbot Raptor2. This thing is SOLID. keep in mind to keep your retractions to 1mm or less to prevent jams
I am new to the channel and 3D printing. I found your channel as I saw your qidi x-plus review and bought one. I am having trouble with the high temp extruder but they are sending me another one. Love the channel.
Thin stepper motors are fine until they got hot and begin missing steps even with Duet WiFi drivers at 24V. It was smart move. And Trianglelab clone is better as for me due to they solved problem of easy changing nozzle block.
My hextrudort works perfectly. Maybe pancake motors have issues, but there are other formats.
Great work resurrecting that pile into something usable.
I added a hemera to my sapphire pro (looks very similar to this tronxy) and it has been AMAZING.
Yo, that caliper trick is amazing. Thank you
Thanks again for the high quality content. 💚
Oh man, I remember that Tronxy! I was appalled the first time I heard of the thermal runaway issue
I’d love to see Angus try a custom DIY printer build the likes of VzBot, Voron or RatRig.
I’d always thought I knew what his answer would be, as he normally focuses in the end-user’s perspective of a product and that, as an industrial designer, he sees 3D printers as tools to “empower creativity through technology” rather than the meta hobby. But the sometimes videos like this or his 3D printer inside a prop scratch build pop up, which are more in line with the DIY meta community.
Anyway, I’d just love to see Angus’s reaction to use a VzBot at max speeds :)
You nailed a few good points about the Hemera....the lack of part cooling solutions / BL Touch mounts have prevented me from upgrading more machines to it. The mounts I have seem for the CR-10S, for example, seemed really wiggly and lacking.
I had a hell of a time getting their extruder to properly grip the filament. After a month of tweeking with it trying to get it to work, I decided the tensioner was way too finicky for me and promptly went back to my bondtech extruder on my main printer and haven't looked back.
Edit: wow, that frame is super flimsy. It badly needs some bracing, you can see the whole frame moving back and forth while you're printing.
Also, I put the DDX on my nephew's ender 3 and it's awesome.
It's the folding table its on sadly, the frame is super rigid surprisingly. I need less flimsy tables that also can be stored away!
@@MakersMuse
Maybe you can print some snap-on braces that would tension the legs against the table top. If the legs are stiff, it won't wobble. Or just replace the folding joints with some better joint that probably already exists.
Thanks for this episode. I am currently upgrading my Anet A8 to print with 0.2mm nozzle and concidered himera as an option. In the end, I went with a clone of Titan Aero geared direct drive which was a much cheaper option (about 18€ extruder + heatsink). I yet have to finish the build..
Looking forward to more of your 3D printing videos, great mods!
(Maybe to help with cooling you need more cooling fans? As for the mysterious filament jamming it could be the hemera's early production errors losing torque. Otherwise, a temperature and humidity soaked problem where the filament needs to be baked and printed at above normal pla temps. Additionally, perhaps a filament spool holder/feeding at that height bends the oversized bowden tube that it cannot feed smoothly anymore.idk hope these well intentioned guesses help.)
I love Kim's dice towers. Great print.
Thanks a lot for your advice i love all of your upgrade I’m gonna use them for my personal TH-cam channel
Thanks 👌🏻
I think you should say "I do not like the printer, I like the modifications * I * made to it of which TronXY had nothing to do with."
heh yep, pretty much.
I know this video was a while ago - but I just had an experience that may explain your headless cats. Printing the cat with a silk type pla. I was using a JAXA heat box as the filament holder - I'd been printing some wood filled filament that I kept dry at 50C and just added the silk rather than switch holders. Every now and then the filament roll would jump - waking me up from my chair where I was watching with my eyes closed. Careful watching found that the roll would creep UP the forward roller which means the filament was unable to release from the spool. Only issue I could see is that one winding of the filament was against the adjacent filament for about an inch and then separated slightly - until the filament would release from the adjacent filament and the roll would slam back into position and unroll about half a winding before it stopped. I suspect the manufacturer wound the roll at temperature and the filament windings would occasionally stick together. Complaints about filament tangling is probably this problem - not tangling but sticking together. When I have the inclination I think I'll transfer the remaining filament from this roll to another roll and see if there are any hang-ups. But I thought you might want to know - a reason why one filament creates headless cats and another doesn't - basically the manufacturer lost control of the temperature during winding and it occasionally got too high. If it's during winding I'm willing to bet is kind'a periodical - explaining why the printing stopped at close to the same place.
I'm currently trying to upgrade my V6 hotend to the hemera, but the thing is at customs since three weeks now :(
Brexit's working out fine for me
ohhhhh snap, thats were all my shipments went, i get notifications telling me theyre in the country then they dont show up til months later
than the estimated delivery date
Can you review a Voron? Curious to see how they stack up against commercially available printers
D01 is a great candidate for upgrades, i'm doing one myself with a high temperature heated chamber and increased build volume
Oh! Increased build volume, how are you managing that?
@@MakersMuse Custom long thin bowden hotend + linear rail mount to get a few cm more x axis and turn the whole top frame with the motors upside-down so motors are on the top to get a few cm more z. print volume will be ~28*23.5*24
@sigmatechnica what firmware are you running and any tips for customizing print settings? Acceleration updates thru Start G-Code in prusa Slicer seem to take.
@@lennynnnnnn I upgraded the control board to a duet, there are so many machine changes by settings won't be helpfull to anyone else!
I have the same "glass lattice" thing from tronxy and nothing would stick until I roughed up the surface, it now prints PLA with a 50deg bed though YMMV so try lightly sanding with P60 sandpaper on the bed don't go too hard just make sure there are lines, 240 didn't seem to work
Great video, but I was never a fan of the Hermera and the E3D hotends in general.
On the Hermera, the heatsink that would normally be used to only keep the cold zone cold is now also keeping the stepper motor (which produces a ton of heat) cool. Just unnecessary. It may work, but the heatsink wouldn't have to be as big if it wasn't also having to dissipate the heat from the stepper motor.
E3D just seems stuck with the V6 heatbrake design and refuses to do anything better. I absolutely despise the loose hot block, having to hold the block while tightening the nozzle. And the fact that because the heat brake is the only thing attaching the block to the heatsink, you have to balance strength with trying to reduce heat transfer as much as possible. The result is always a compromise between being too weak and likely breaking if you have any sort of nozzle crash at all, or too thick and doesn't do its job as a heat brake well.
The Mosquito, Dragon, DragonFly etc are all amazing hotends, more compact than the V6 with a better heat sink design (quite a bit smaller), and because the heat brake is no longer structural on those, it can have much better thermal properties because it's much, much thinner. And to top it all off, one handed nozzle changes.
I wish E3D would do something different. They're a great company and I support them where I can (I always buy the E3D Copper Plated Nozzles), but their hotends seriously leave something to be desired IMO. The E3D V6 was great in its time, but there are much better solutions out there these days.
Hey, thanks for your honest comments and for supporting us where possible. All we can say is that big things are on the horizon, watch this space, we hope we'll be able to blow your socks off later this year. Thanks, E3D
@@E3DOnline @BladeScraper This seems like a really genuine, constructive interaction between a consumer with valid criticisms, and a manufacturer who is doing their best to innovate in a new space. You love to see it, and it's great that content creators on YT like @Maker's Muse are able to facilitate it!
One of my favourite things about 3D printing is that even relative outsiders/amateurs can and do have brilliant ideas and breakthroughs. It might be the most communal, globally developed technology ever!
My only issue with this is the huge increase in moving mass. What speeds/acceleration/jerk are you running?
Are you actually able to change the acceleration on the D01? I found that any of the typical gcode commands dont take with the stock FW...
@@lennynnnnnn you can if you flash Marlin to it
Here’s a suggestion. 3d print a template to borrow the holes perfectly. Best solution. Doesn’t need to be too fancy.
Yeah! I do 3D Printed jigs quite often but for a single measured hole I feel it's a little overkill :)
so glad creality came out with their own version of this. sprite is great.
Great video review. The thin throat makes it too easy to break. It would been nice if they did like the mosquito or the dragon which has posts.
Yeah, two thermally insulating posts to resist torsion would set my mind at ease when changing nozzles.
@@MakersMuse Accidents happen, is possible to remove one of if it breaks?
1,000 thumbs up for the hole to hole tip. That's mega!
„…and you will need to do a final _Titan_ when the whole assembly is at temperature!“ 🤪
6:17 reminded me of mighty car mods when he says IN THE BIN haha
Thumbs up for the "I am an ambassador for" attitude.
That caliper trick to find center-to-center was slightly mind-blowing for me. You glossed over it like it was nothing! Oh the tricks you see on TH-cam videos...
7:20
For as much as I dislike many aspects about your content, I have to admit that, unlike other "makers" here on youtube, you are actually professional and I'd like to thank you for providing actually useful professional tips.
Usefulness of your tips, even though many are not able to realize it, is at least two orders of magnitude more useful than the next best content.
Sincerely thank you.
If you made that end stop swich bracket a little longer with elongated holes it would be a proper adjustable end stop switch.
Awesome Sir such a beautiful print! well done :)
LTT shirt! nice
I've done a similar mod to my Sapphire Pro and it went from being a terrible and unreliable 3d printer to a great machine. The first things I did was replace the original firmware with a version of marlin, replaced all the noisy fans, replaced the stock PEI sheet with a creality magnetic bed and replaced the stock rigid lead screw coupler. Then I tried to upgrade the shitty hotend with an E3D v6, but the prints were still unimpressive and inconsistent. I decided I wanted to upgrade to a light direct drive extruder, so I bought a titan aero conversion kit. To avoid reducing the build volume too much I flipped the entire top plate upside down, to have the linear rails, belts assembly and mtotors on the top. I also inverted the x axis rail, to have that on the top too. The last mod I did was adding an auto leveling probe, to bypass the crappy and unreliable z endstop. I would like to stiffen up the bed frame to make it less wobbly and build some sort of cover to hide and protect the belts. But even as it is right now it's a great printer, and MUCH MUCH better than before.
Nice! The Sapphire Pro is SO similar it's almost the same printer. It also got panned heavily by reviewers so great to hear it's redeemable with a similar upgrade, though sounds like it was a fair bit more effort!
Damn. If you billed your time at minimum wage, how much better of a printer could you have started with?
This extruder looks sick!
Can you do a video about the Anycubic Mega Zero, i recently bougt one and like to hear your view/ comments on it.... maybe even tips on how to get it in to top shape?
Would love a video just showing off your mounting and cables management for your music production setup!
One thing to try to address that clogging with PLA is to make sure you have good thermal paste application With the heat break. I under did it and got heaps of clogs, but fine now fixed. I think the clogs happen on retract which makes sense on the chin because you’re doing travel moves between the two zones (body and chin). Also a part of the model with heaps of perimeter and not much infill, ie worse for heat creep.
I know just how you feel about the hated printer wiring! I have been putting mine off for the last two weeks.
Was actual torture running it through that orange mesh lol. Got the fans wrong, extruder was going backwards... !
My solution for inadequate cooling performance due to the bed heater was to simply set the temperature to 30° after the 1st layer. The reason I don't turn it off completely is because the room temperature is about 10°.
Edit: Have only tried this with a paper tape bed and PLA. Not sure if this works with any other material.
Yeah, I do this for many of my other printers but with the ceramic coated glass beds, they "self release" at lower temperatures so you can't turn them down much.
Hey very awesome video Angus
I really hope E3D decides to sell the drive components separately. I bought a few of these for my printers and I like to keep backup parts, but due to the issues E3D was having, they do not sell the drive components as a separate purchase. They do sell everything else as separate components.
Hi Jason, you can now find that here - e3d-online.com/products/hemera-drivetrain-replacement. Thanks, E3D
@@E3DOnline Thank you! I just ordered three of them.
I think any 3D printer is insane with the hemera
Can you do a review of the creality ender 5? I am thinking of buying that but you are really the only person I trust to review 3d printers and for 3d printing advice
I've fitted a Hemera to my Ender 5 plus and now it will print anything at default cura PLA speeds or faster , Using the default cura speed of 80mm/s I've printed TPU and PETG where before I would have had to really slow it down to 30mm/s for PETG and TPU just wouldn't print reliably.
Since I've had the Hemera I've had just 1 jam which I think was cause by my dry box ? , I had to remove the heater or thermistor , and them unscrew the heat block and heat break , all while still connected to the printer FUN.
Yes , I think printing at high speed does cause a lot of ringing with the extra weight , but for functional part that isn't a problem , just slow the print down a little and it will print like glass.
I wish you can do another video on upgrading this or adding stuff to your 3d printers
I did a bondtech conversion and used a MicroSwiss all metal hotend. It was an easy swap. My problem and I believe yours with this printer is the bed wobbles way too much and needs more support.
Stringing is part for the game for flexibles? Try the "NinjaFlex Profile - Zero Stringing - Flawless Print " from prusaprinters on your MK3/MK3S.
I'm basically printing TPU flawlessly like PLA with that profile. I can fill the buildplate with TPU prints and i won't get a single wispy string.
With the hemera you definately should not be getting any stringing, as the system is almost made for printing TPU.
Also, if your CF Nylon has a "really rough surface finish" it's probably wet. CF nylon doesn't really string that bad, but it gets a really rough surface finish when it's wet.
Great profile, thanks. Doing some tests now based off it and also trying external perimeters first - much better on the benchy now trying the wheel again. The rigid ink PA12 CF really is that rough, and actually a little too stiff (you can snap the filament on the roll), I dry it for quite a while before printing.
Great helpful advice Angus
Bondtech also came out with LGX, which is similar to hemera in terms of the function.
Yeah, it looks quite good honestly.
Hey Angus, great project! I own a D01 too, with a similar mod: the stock titan extruder mounted on the X carriage to make it direct extruder, and it works very well!
PS: I tested the thermal protection by pulling the sensor cable, and it has it, so that's out of the way!
Cheers!
PS2: The failure on the cat may be related to the temperature PID: on my machine, it had a +/- 10 C oscillation: this may cause it to swing too hi and then too low when there's a change in flow rate.
I have this printer with the same mod. I had the same issue with the +/- 10 C oscillation. Made a few PID tunning, and now have only +/- 5 C, example 200° oscilate between 198° and 203°.
But still have a problem with layer shift sometimes, especially on some tiny infill areas. The belts are tight, all the machine has litium grease on the rails, steels rods and acme rod. I'm trying with the acceleration and jerk values. My actual values are 1000 acceleration and jerk, and print speed 40/50mms almost time. Do you have layer shift any time?
@@L3chuckk Hi Diego! I had layer shift problems before, I solved them by lowering the jerk speed (I used a guide, i think on Prusaslicer or Slic3r, but many slicers have guides to set this up) I use 10mm/s of Jerk on an i3 build I have, but on the D01 we should be able to use higher jerk speeds. Cheers!
@@agl33 i tried from jerk 25 mm/s AND had to decrease to 20, 15, AND finally 10 mm/s. If a use More jerk than 10 on some prints have layer shift.
Lol, pheonix edition. I get it!
It dies and comes back out of its ashes (Precipitate of lack of thermal runaway)?
@@bldjln3158 well that's clever :p
I'm jelly you can get that stuff!
Such a big printer for such a little build volume.
Hi Angus, I know it’s a little late but have you released your revised tolerance test? I’m really looking forward to trying it!
Nickel plated? They were not screwing around, eh? Nickel is what the blades of jet engines are made of, because it doesn't absorb heat easily (so doesn't expand much) and is rock-solid tough (those blades grind birds into mush without damage [except when multiple large birds end up there, when the airflow and fuel cannot pass easily enough nevermind burn]). It's why certain trumpets can play outrageously loud even with a small bore size like the Conn Constellation - Nickel and Nickel plated in some parts. It's so tough it's an outrageous pain in the backside to machine and bend to make such horns!
I generally use a tiny amount permatex copper on the threads. this helps with sealing everything up
My suggestions are:
1. always have LTT shirts in videos
2. make ender 5 ultimate edition upgrade
3. Have fun.
Thank you
My old faithful printer is an x5sa that Ive done a ton of work to it.
if you but tronxies as motors and extrusions, they arent a bad deal
Yep i had similar issues with Filamentum PLA. I found that due to low clearances in the heatbrake, if you retract and then extrude only small bits of filament before retracting, the filament gets stuck in the heatbrake.
When you get a roll of PLA that inexplicably prints best at 240C (No, I didn't accidentally order PETG, I checked the spool, packaging, and amazon listing)
I had a roll of PLA that became ABS half way once lol
@@MakersMuse I were so confused ordering 2.85 mm transparent PP when needing 1.75 mm. Or the description were changed. So send it back to Amazon. Now I am waiting again for a order, but from an austrian (!) not australian distributor. Also a prints fixing tool with hot tips.
@@MakersMuse Also, thanks for sparking my interest in the hobby! I would never have gotten into it without your videos.
UPDATE: It turned out I was being ignorant because I am new to 3D printing and blamed the filament far too quickly. The issues I was having (horrible under extrusion) quickly came back even at that high temperature and it turned out the hot end PTFE was not installed correctly. I reinstalled it and it fixed the issue, allowing me to make beautiful prints at a much more reasonable 210 degrees C. My machine is a Prusa mini+ and I am using Hatchbox PLA. If anyone has similar issues on this machine try following Prusa’s guide on replacing the hot end PTFE (except just reinstall the original PTFE unless it is wrecked obviously)
I actually observed very similar issues as you did where the filament repeatably wouldn’t extrude at a certain height. I also used a hemera and only had this issue with my white filament, so I assume that it may be due to the white needing more pigment? Nevertheless the solution for me was to clip a microfiber cloth soaked in a little bit of cooking oil on the filament. I also would be interested in why exactly this happens as it seems to be unique to the hemera...
Cetus 3d printers don't have thermal runaway protection either. Try unplugging the hot end thermistor, it'll start heating uncontrollably and continue until the heater burns itself out.
What a painful to make vlog, breathe easier it's over and your new love / hate relationship can begin. What music are you working on? I would love for makers muse to have a theme song or opening jingle! I definitely caught your new tolerance guage and can't wait to buy/print it!
Haha now that video is down I can play around a bit! I made the title theme a good 6 years ago so perhaps time to update...