Banggood 20W Hand-Crank Electrical Generator Assessment & Review
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2018
- Testing the capacity and capabilities of a 20W generator intended for use in camping and emergency situations.
This generator can be found for sale using this search: goo.gl/M4Ad11
I feel really sorry for people buying the eBay version that sells for $120.....
I will be making a PART 2, where I tear this down and try to fix some of its deficiencies. UPDATE: • Banggood 20W Hand Cran...
I also apologize for the poor quality of this video :( It looked fine on my computer at home. I blame Apple. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[UNCUT] ฝันรักห้วงนิทรา | EP.8 (4/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RDYJYiDwsj0/mqdefault.jpg)
I am so glad (and glad again) that I watched your video. I was quite intrigued to buy this Generator for possible Emergency situations etc. You have demonstrated very well that this thing would be mostly useless for the purposes I had in mind.Thank you :)
The motor used in this device is from the series FRS-555SP, specific model FRS-555SP-21110, which is made by Katri motors. Their product catalog of motors is easy to find on google (file "dc_motor_spec.pdf") and page 66 is the one you want. This is the page the video creator is holding up in the next "Part 2: Teardown". Other motors of this series would perhaps be better suited to provide the regulator circuit with a lower input voltage so as to facilitate efficiency of the regulator circuit. The USB 5V output is arguably the most desirable setting / output and such a motor change may help a lot with this. And, since it appears the motors of this series are the same physical dimensions, a "remove and replace" or motor swap should be quite doable.
Katri motor FRS-555SP-3263N rated at 6.0 - 18.0 volts and 460rpm would be my first choice as a replacement motor to optimize the 5v USB output. Where to buy? Thorough ebay searches and google searches using some numbers from the listed specs for this motor may yield a seller where a few units could be purchased. For some reason I will doggedly continue to try and make this crank generator better. May as well right? Buying it was a rare mistake on my part - I failed to search for detailed reviews such as this one prior to buying.
Note1: I purchased mine on ebay for $29 mid February 2019. Upon receipt I opened it up right away to perform electrolytic capacitor replacement and addition of filtering ceramics caps on the motor and in parallel with the electrolytic cap. Plus to add a ferrite toroid to wrap the input wire from the motor around. I immediately noticed the circuit of this unit came with a large 35v 2200uf electrolytic capacitor on the input! So clearly a change has been made. ( Ultimately the manufacturer of this device needs to change the motor, add heavy filtering and ferrites, even dispensing with the voltage select divider and fix it at 5v USB output... with a line out unregulated jack, not these black and red spring clips from junk speakers.)
Note2: Searching ebay for “SMD 47uh power inductor” results in images of the same component used on this device. It features 470 printed on the component. Sold as 47uh. So I think 470 means 47uh (microhenry) after all. Not 470uh. Searches for other value SMD inductors reveal this to be the case also - appearing as a regime of indicating component value without adding decimals.
I have one of these ordered and waiting for delivery. I bought one of these as I am working on a project to create a proof of concept. I plan to show that my invention can drive this generator by itself. I will post videos showing this
Interesting experiment,I just got 1 for myself,the first thing I try is to set to 12v to run an inverter to light a 220v 5w LED bulb ( just for fun)
Meanly I just want to use as a 5v USB charger to charge power bank and also a reason to do some exercise :)
also JUST remembered one of the MOST IMPORTANT basics. YOU are operating from the REGULATED SIDE...all of it is chinese so therefore pretty hard for us to tell. THE RIGHT SIDE is the one the is unregulated, so therefore THAT would drastically affect your calculations/measurements.
Very practical experiment. Thank you for sharing us before we burn over 30$ and it can't charge our smart phone.
I think the seller uses the power theory
Power= current x voltage.. so, they test their product output terminals directly to the multimeter of instead putting some load on them.
Good work my friend . Can you please show us what’s inside that thing and if we can improve it or even change the motor inside to make it better thank you
A very thorough review, and thank you for your effort. I got one of these babies for the specific purpose of topping off 18650 batteries. At 12v it ought to be just barely adequate.
Hopefully it works out for you!
I have just got mine today and been playing, have figured out that it can do 3amps at 5v if you can turn it fast enough and some small mods needed.
Firstly you wont manage to maintain 3 amps for long its hard work.
So what i noticed is initially similar results to your video untill i realised when i hit about an amp there was this 'slipping feeling' like the load dissapeared.... anyway long story short the usb devices start panicking and shutoff when theres too much electrical noise.
Mods done, thicker wire from motor to board, 2 x 680uf capacitors in parallel with the motor (before the diode on the pcb)
Made a 12v sockets tail to try an external regulator usb 3.0 and pdc.
So what i found is yes the internal regulator does convert less energy than a better external one, but the internal one was still able to hit 2.4 amps and the external one could hit 3amps but you have to go crazy on the handle and you need a usb device that will accept the current or it throttles then the lever goes slack and you smack your knuckles on something.
Using a type c torch with 3 18650 cells inside it would accept whatever i could get out without limiting, and 2 amps is possible at 5v with the internal reg, and 2.8amps with the external.
The main issue from factory is the silly 1 amp wire on the motor to the board (it gets very hot), upgrade it to as thick as you have to kill the voltage drop which is the main issue, secondly some very beefy caps to stop the devices panicking when the voltage is irregular when turning the handle, you want enough capacitance to make the output fully stable.
Super caps would be good but i just used what i had.
I put them before the blocking diode on the pcb due to inrush current, i didnt want to blow the diode.
Sleeved the wobbly handle with a piece of brass bush that i machined at work.
So if you have time give this a try then measure the current and see if you get the same result as me.
The motor is suprisingly powerfull as a generator i spun it on a drill (not too fast) and could keep a solid 3 amps so it sees the gearing could do with less rpm on the handle and more torque to make it more sustainable.
Thanks,
Mat.
Thanks for your video 👍
How would you upgrade it? Would it be possible to add an electrolytic capacitor?
Dziękuję, dobra robota. Pozdrawiam z Polski.
Zapraszamy. Pozdrowienia ze Stany.
Planning on putting 8 super capacitors in series and swap in a buck converter with QC3 for both usb ports. I believe most of the 20watt can then be used for charging then.
Let us know how it works out!
Hello bro, what if I put a Eolic propeller kind of thing on this engine? It would blow the system? What is the max RPM?
I have one but never used as never needed.. thanks a lot
Thanks for the video. What kind of capacitor did you use to on the bulb with this hand crank generator
You are very welcome. I am surprised at how popular this video has been. I believe what I used was a 2000uF 60V (and was also VERY old). You certainly don't need to use that high of a voltage rating it's just what I had on-hand. 2200uF 35V would probably do the same job, and would be inexpensive and easy to find.
Thanks for your vid
You're welcome.
at 17 minutes or so
Is the crackling noise interference from the dc motor?
I GUESS the CAPS MOD now becomes an absolute essential for these then, to make for that 100% efficiency.
Hey man I got a question for you about this thing would really help me out if you had an answer.well I just got one and messing around with it trying to power an inverter and a lamp with it on the 12v setting I must have overloaded something and thing is broken now trying to hook up anything turning the crank feels like it's trying to power a large load a lot of resistance and no power output but I took the cover off and as soon as I disconnect the motor from the board it turns freely easily question is do you have any idea of what my problem with it might be maybe blown capacitor?
Without knowing what kind of test-equipment you have on hand, I would say something is definitely blown. Your best bet might be a touch-test. Crank it for a little while, then feel each component with the tip of your finger. Odds are that the hottest one is the failure point. If the crank is that difficult to turn, all your energy must be going somewhere.
Yes, got mine for 75 canadian. Of coarse MODS will need to be used. Seems to me the most efficient way to use it is to charge 2 USB batteries...then use those to charge your tech, etc. after all those hands 2amps...so if you only do one you are losing 1/2 the generated power. Seems to me an excellent unit. However the planetary gears you praise in video 2 MAY be one of the weak spots as well, IF they are made of plastic which I am fairly sure they are...IF you have ANY suggestions to be able to fix that part, PLEASE let me know, thanks!
Congrats, you bought a radio jammer !! ^_^ charge power bank or super capacitor will be a better choice than directly connect to devices.
Unfortunately it's only a short-range jammer, and seems to leave the microwave frequencies alone. I can't even use it to combat people who obnoxiously talk on their phones in public :/ Though, using this in public might have the desired effect anyway.
So I have seen this unit IS inefficient for it's main uses as far as I can tell from the data learned. That is a bummer. I will have to do some of my own tests to see if it is actually viable. Seems the unit is wasting about 1/2 of the energy, this SHOULD be addressed. Only the 15v application is 100% efficient? Is there any extra you have learned in the 3 or so years since this was created @M O'Connell?
Dude your thoroughness is amazing. Audio could be better. The sound is very quiet unless I have the volume all the way up and there's a lot of static
I believe I filmed this using the internal mic in the camera, which honestly is not that good. I put together a makeshift lav mic for part II.
What is the gear ratio (revolutions per crank) and are the inside gears made of metal?
I would need to check on the gear ratio. The gears themselves are nylon.
I got one of these, It did seem pretty crappy at 5 volts so I being a collector of little modules. I had a 4 port usb module that runs off of up to like 30 volts, so I just used the unregulated output into that seems to work a little better, but still takes forever to charge an IPad and cellphone plugged into at the same time. Yeah, I purchased it for like a earthquake, or crazy power out scenario, at least I could keep my rechargeable flashlights going, and charge my little emergency radio, etc...
This is one of those items that seems like total crap until you need it because you have absolutely nothing else. Crap is usually better than nothing. I have a 12W solar panel connected to a 12Ah lead-acid battery that seems to make more sense for me because it's maintenance-free, and 12Ah will do several days of emergency work for me, even at the low recharge rate.
Maybe someone here can help me. I bought this for emergencies. I tested it out the box due to a coincidental power outtage when it arrived. I wanted to charge my phone. I set it to 5 as it says everywhere to do. I cranked for 30mins desperate to charge my phone and all it did was continue to lose power. The phone said it was charging but just kept dying. I've tried it on several devices since then and it's the same story and there's like no info online about this issue. Any ideas? Or ideas for a fix?? Side note. On devices with more than 50% power there is more resistance, but its not consistent!! Sometimes it slips like it's charging a dead battery then goes back to stiff again.
It would only deliver 20 watts at 2000 RPM which you cannot do with your arm. Thus the output wattage is going to be significantly lower.
Super informative mate, thanks for making this video. I'm sat here, having bought one myself, in a "so, what can I actually do with this" frame of mind. The 5v output isn't quite high enough to charge my phone but with a little step up it was.. however, I turned it for a good few minutes and didn't even manage 1% of charge lol!
It's overpowered for say, a little arduino, but underpowered for anything else so it's kinda pointless :(
Looking forward to your part 2 and if you figured out any hacks for it.
I've been enormously busy with work of late, but I'll give you a sneak preview... Drill a hole in the shaft, and move the handle a bit further out. That spells a reduction in busted knuckles.
Question ❓ if if I replace the hand crank with blades and placed in a water vortex to turn it could I change a 12 volt lead acid battery and would I need to connect something like a solar charger controller
Theoretically yes, though you may need to try out various different linkages to get the shaft speed to work out with respect to how fast your water is moving. Having some means of preventing overcharging would definitely be in order. You can use something as basic as a linear regulator and it will be ok.
@@moconnell663 all right I have a off grid cabin with solar but the sun doesn't shine at night or with heavy clouds same with wind I collect rain water so my thought is to use a siphon pump ( they are called free energy water pumps all over TH-cam if you need a reference) in my loft siphoned from a water reservoir feeding back to the reservoir so a constant flow of water with the vortex created in a upsidedown 5 gallon water bottle with a small PVC tube connected to the shaft and larger half PVC pipes for the blades do you think it's got potential or should I buy a larger DC motor this hand crank seems ready made for my idea I'm planning on installing the siphon pump anyway to feed my faucet trying to save power wherever I can
How many hours cranking this generator to fully charge Tesla car bettery 😁
406 days, Assuming perfect electrical efficiency, an 8-hour workday, and the smallest Tesla battery of 65kWh.
Is there another type of this crank that actually has an internal storage ?
There are cranks which have internal batteries! Toward the end of this video you see an old Eton crank radio/weather radio/flashlight thing which is really about all a hand-crank is good for. You'll never be able to practically store a massive amount of current with such a device, luckily radios and flashlights don't use much power. That radio came with a 'cell phone charger' option, which worked well enough with my Nokia back in the day, but I don't find it too be too useful with modern phones, they just want too much current. Here's a used one just like mine on eBay: www.ebay.com/i/123303434946?chn=ps
Good video.
Can I put two of those in parallel?
The output is diode-protected, so two units should be able to operate in parallel without a problem.
@@moconnell663
Thank you!
I was thinking of buying one of these for use in my escape rooms. Do you think this is safe to be used commercially.
I assume you would simply be using it for "signal" type purposes, triggering a relay or some such thing. For that purpose, it would be totally fine.
@@moconnell663 I thought I could use to power some LEDs to illuminate a combination code on a wall. Thanks for your response.
@@AnimalStomper That'd be totally fine. In part two of this two-part video I show some of the things it can reasonably do, and it handles a small 12V LED lamp very well.
@@moconnell663 thanks my friend
As I can see, during regulated cranking, you never reach the voltage setting. As I can see.. it’s annoying that the voltage can’t be seen since the meter is hidden and the meter display reflects light. Otherwise I would have appreciated this vid a lot.
Thanks for your video, you got way too much time on your hands-lol. I have ordered one.
Unfortunately I do NOT have too much time, otherwise I would make quite a few more videos. :) I recently got my hands on a better computer, so hopefully editing the video won't take eons anymore.
@@moconnell663 Thanks for your effort, I wish I would have seen this before I bought mine:)
@@VentureAnyway Bummer! Hopefully you can find some sort of use for it. Mine just sits on a shelf, awaiting a Part 3 video.
Question: Why not just hook it up directly to the ammeter and then voltmeter functions on your multimeters either at the same time or separately and multiply them together?
Both of my "good" multimeters have blown fuses on the current sense channel ;)
@@moconnell663 I just figured out that if you connect it to a car outlet inverter you can set it to 15 volts and get the full efficiency, so, there you go. It can power car outlet devices at maximum efficiency. Not too bad
@@johnsuarez1404 true! But it is important to consider how much energy is lost in the conversion circuitry of that inverter. Ultimately, every device has its own ideal supply voltage. If it's purely a logic device, all the circuitry might want 3.3v, but the power supply starts with 5v, or when charging a Lion cell at 4.2v, the surplus voltage needs to be burned off somewhere. The most efficient application depends on the specific set of parts involved.
I didn't watch the full thing but if you set the switch to 9 volts what do you get at the usb ports? I really hope its not 9 volts
The usb port voltage follows the switch on the front of the unit. If it's set to 9v, that's what you get.
@@moconnell663 oh wow that's terrifying for people who don't know what they are doing.
@@x9x9x9x9x9 it certainly is! However if you have a device which negotiates with the charger for higher input voltage, you might be able to benefit from rapid charging by just feeding your device a higher voltage. Unfortunately I don't have one of those devices to test it with.
@@moconnell663 Oh yeah i guess that would work with a usb c type phone. And most modern phones can handle some voltage regulation on the input but still scary if someone used an old samsung or something.
@@x9x9x9x9x9 one of these years I'll have to make a part three where I test out all the ideas that have built up in the comment section. I bet my old Nokia could probably handle the unregulated output.
you should crank it for 5minutes on anyrechargable battery and show ushow long could the battery last.
how much does it take to recharge a mobile phone?
well obviously its the motor that puts out approximately 20 watts and not the regulated output. you had it set to 3 volts and with the regulated output to a essential short circuit (sub-ohm). A linear regulator regulates voltage by throwing out energy. can you do a test on just the internal motor? probably DC.
For a few dollars more it would be better to replace the crank with an antique wind-up type mechanism that lasts at least an hour. Anyway congratulations!
I love the under 30 comments
How do I hook it up to a bike how do I make a shorter handle please make video
Hooking this particular device up to a bicycle is not really a good idea. The housing, the bearings, the circuitry are all too weak for that sort of input power. Depending on how much down-time I have this winter I may make another video on the subject.
You CHARGE battery banks, and use clean energy from them whenever you feel like doing it, you shouldn´t be using at higher rpm, but in an slower pace, you can be charging the power banks, and use it whenever necessary, and in the ammounts necessary...
Output voltage is a mathematical function of input shaft speed. The gearing is insufficient to allow higher-voltage output at low shaft speeds. The speed at which you can turn the handle is also relative to the amount of current your load will draw. As I have demonstrated, you absolutely can charge batteries with this device, however you need to be prepared for it to consume every free moment of your life. I haven't thrown it away, so it does have some use. However, regular use is wildly impractical.
Try charging some 100F up to 500F supercapacitors using that 20W handcrank.
You need 15 volts to charge a 12 volt battery or capacitor bank
I have not seen this video that you posted when I commented on the prior video you made on this product. The fact that the CFL lamp rated 13 watts at 12 volts DC did not light up until you had a capacitor simply explains that the DC generated is not filtered a whole lot. If you were to hook your oscilloscope on the load as you were using without the cap, you would see the ripple riding on the DC voltage. By adding the external cap you now smoothened out the ripple which is the most likely unfiltered DC from the commutator of the motor / generator. This you can see easily on the scope when you hook up that big cap on how the ripple will now be reduced allowing a more pure DC to be fed into the lamp's internal converter to operate. Does it specify 13 watts on the lamp? I have seen CFL lamps with lower wattage ratings down to six watts maybe. It's been a while for me now that all my lamps are LED based. Either way, I can see that you were working with everything clamped down in order to make it light up. There was a lot of mechanical force there that was short lived, lol. Back to my findings as well that power comes at a price of torque. For any generator, the maximum power efficiency will be when the external load resistance is matched with that of the internal resistance of the generator. In other wards, 50% of the energy will be lost at the source of the generator, and the other half will go to your load. It's fundamental rule if I remember correctly with efficiency of energy transfer. I think they refer to it as a balanced load for optimum power transfer. The same idea applies to impedance matching transformers for the best possible signal strength transmission, but that is all RF stuff.
The generator cannot supply the inrush current needed to strike the lamp. Without the capacitor in circuit the lamp drags the generator voltage down below what is needed to sustain the lamp discharge long enough for the strike to fail. It will oscillate back and forth forever. The reserve of current provided by the cap gets it over the 'hump' so to speak.
The output is not perfectly smooth, but it's no worse than I would expect from a cheap wallwart power supply.
@@moconnell663 I don't think it is the inrush current. My thought is that the effective DC coming from the commutator is not at the right effective RMS DC level to cause the bulb's converter to kick in. What the capacitor is doing is smoothening out the roughness of them DC pulses and thus elevating the effective DC voltage to one that the bulb's internal converter can now commence operation. That's why when you connect the battery to your bulb, it lights up without any issues. Reason is because the battery has enough reserve capacity of current and is of steady state DC not pulsuating DC as such from the commutator in the generator. If you viewed the pulses on the oscilloscope you will see them go from zero to max peaks. Take the average effective DC amplitude and you will find that the effective DC level is just not enough. You already got the meters to measure voltage and an oscilloscope to view the waveform if you desire to adventure yourself. You can also find the inrush current using the scope if you shall desire with the use of a resistor as a shunt to measure the current across the resistor that will offer you pretty good answers but I don't think that is the issue. Like you said earlier, solar panel may be the best answer keeping on track.
So whats the best one for 5volt 2 Amps?
Based on my experience with dodgy specifications on consumer goods, buy one that claims to produce 5V5A and you'll have a decent chance of it actually making 2A.
@@moconnell663 Yea its sad they have to lie and deceive. I am looking at some foot chargers, I have found 3, one of them can also be used for hands, they can do 100 watts and one can only do 50 watts.
Still looking around, not cheap for sure.
5:53 what's that on you cap?
When I started making the video I was using the internal microphone in the camera which sounded terrible. I made an external microphone out of a broken toy walkie-talkie. It sounds much better, though still not great.
bang good lmao
can you try charging AA batteries via usb?
Yes you certainly can do that, 3 AA cells in series should charge fully off of the USB output even without any circuitry controlling the charge. There is little danger of overcharging the cells because your arm will likely get tired long before that happens. If you need to power something for a long time, or you need a higher voltage, the unregulated output is perfectly good for charging a lead-acid type battery (and is the most efficient, since it's coming straight out of the generator. I am working on a part II video for this generator :)
Could a wheel instead of crank makes spinning easier. seems crank is a bit long.
That's a tough call, the crank is about the right length for the torque input required to turn the generator when it is under full-load. For a light load, a shorter handle would be nice. However, the device as a whole is largely useless anyway.
Thanks for this honest review! I was close to ordering it for some fun projects, but your measurement results and observations tell me that it IS junk after all.
The basic concept is great, the size/weight and even the price is OK, but the lousy voltage/current controller ruins the entire design, leave alone the interferences the electronic innards produce.
Typical users would need the 5-6V output, as it is the most commonly used (e.g. USB) voltage these days. With an efficiency of just 15% at this setting this unit makes no sense at all.Who cares that it cannot generate car battery voltages, if you cannot use it to charge a depleted car battery?
Makes me wonder why they do not offer a device tuned to operate at a low voltage range (3-6V) with acceptable efficiency? Can't they design a decent voltage stabilizer/converter or controller?? I am using a 32kHz step-UP voltage controller for garden lights, working at 99% efficiency..
I am NOT surprised that the generator cannot produce the needed current 'punch' of the ignition starter inside the lamp. You should hook the circuit up to your scope and watch the current spike when starting the lamp via the battery. It should prove my point.
Glad I saw this informative clip, the best one about this '20W' generator on YT!
Thank you! A part of the problem is that switch-mode DC converters get less efficient as the difference between input and output voltages gets larger. I really, really need to make a part two so I can answer everyone's questions. If it's raining this weekend, you'll probably see it on Sunday. I tried looking for that on my 'scope, but it's not a logging scope, so I can only see things in real-time. The inductor they used as part of the buck regulator doesn't seem to be the right value either, and the output capacitor is too low a value. I have a feeling it was built with components that lined up to a sweet-spot in pricing. Ideally, if all you needed was 5-6V, a lower-voltage, higher-current motor would do the job more appropriately.
Hi, What about attaching to an exercise bike and telling the wife that her behind is growing and she needs to exercise?
How much power do you think she'd produce or may be attach it to a homemade turbine either wind or hydro?
Did like your vid.
Cheers.
Well, they haven't yet devised a practical means of extracting electrical energy from a 'clubbing' motion yet... so I'll hold off on that. Attaching this to a turbine would be an exercise in exercise, there are far better (and even less-expensive) ways to generate power from those aparatuses.
5:53 what are you wearing on your hat? good video btw
I was hoping no one would notice... When I started making this video, all you could hear was the auto-focus motor in the camera. I needed an external mic, but in all my hoarded crap I didn't have one! That's the circuit board from a cheap kids walkie-talkie (because I didn't want to risk damaging the electret element by de-soldering it from the board) with the capacitor-resistor-3.5mm jack arrangement hot-glued on top of it. It seemed to work surprisingly well.
Well my job revolves around video so i have to notice those sorts of things. hehe. you should do a video on it, then make a better version. reminds me of a flashlight i made to clip onto my glasses when i was a kid. :D
Do you know what is the lifetime of this generator? Does it last forever?
That's going to depend on how much load you put on it, and how carefully you handle it. Overall I would not say that it is very sturdy.
Would it charge super caps
Yes, it would charge supercapacitors just fine. If you use the unregulated output you could charge them up to 20V or so.
155 volts is not totally uncommon for old e r laptops and consumer gear. And I wonder if there is a current limiter for usb charging limiting.
Nom. Just saw your part 2. ;)
Yep! No current limiter for the USB (technically the internal resistance and your arm muscles limits the current pretty well), and the 15V output is more-or-less the maximum consistent voltage it can put out.
If I bought one I think I would have to hack it for my requirements. Adding caps and higher amps output. I think it might be missing a flywheel also. lol I guess I just have to make my own. I think a slightly bigger motor might be needed also.
Making your own is probably the right call. This unit is fine for demo purposes, maybe a little science fair action, or as a toy. For me, anything useful would require one-handed operation.
@@moconnell663 I can easily make one that preforms better then this one. Thank you for your input.
@@moconnell663 HI. I decided on using a cordless drill drill seeing it is geared with a powerful motor. Then all I have to is regulate for 5v,12v, and add a power bank into it.
There's nothing in it to hold up and store current, not unless it was designed like a spring winding like the toys that unwinds and powers up a Dynamo, I've seen a video of it invented by a guy that can even power up a ;laptop for a given time
What's that interference noise when you connected USB hubs?
If you're talking about the buzzing in my audio around 16:58, my microphone was picking up some of the interference the generator creates because the home-made wearable mic I used in this video has no EMI shielding at all, it's a bare circuit board. As you can see, this thing is extremely noisy.
🤔 Hmmm take it apart!
I think your power wires are too thin. But then; so are USB wires.
Just watched your video again, very helpful as I am struggling to optimize the output of a similar DC motor-generator.
gonna get arnold schwarzenegger arms just to charge your smartphone
add a bank of super capacitors .
I imagine it's junk until you need one, better than nothing 😂
If you want a crank generator you should first consider that with your legs, Lance Armstrong(7 times Tour de France winner) has an output of about 300Wh average in an hour.(With steroids) So if Lance Armstrong was to sit on a "Bike cranked generator" he would avarage about 300W for an hour. A normal human being would do about 50% of that(If you are a fat guy maybe 20%) A 300W output is the same as 25Ah@12V.
With your arms AND hands it will drop to about 60Wh(5Ah/h) and thats if you are a really strong man. Average man might do 50% of that(2,5Ah every hour @12V or 30Wh). This is NOT accounting the mechanical losses in the crank/gears to generator.
In reality a normal human being would be able to avarage about 10W per hour with a portable hand crank generator which means you could charge the new iPhone X in an hour(if the phone where in OFF mode while cranking). So please don´t kid yourselfe, you would more likely get carpal tunnel syndrome before charging your smart phone.
If it was an emergency though, as Scott said, it would be a legit way to power your phone for a while.
Source: www.power-pedals.com/legends-of-cycling-power-output-watts/
One hour of cranking can fully charge my iPhone? Doesn't sound so bad, but maybe I'm misunderstanding your point
15 volt, sorry.
Who cares if the generator is capable of putting out 20 watts? Your arm really cannot do this continuously for very long. For 20 watts of output, think more like 26-30 watts mechanical input.
Good test you did, Buddy. Thanks for helping me decide not to buy this junk. This is just one of the reasons I stay away from Chinese junks. At times I buy some of the Chinese junks ‘coz the price is tempting but I have in my mind the “Buyer Beware” phrase which is applicable to Communist Chinese products. Thanks again.
All the worst stuff is Made in China. Though you shouldn't automatically discount something because all the best stuff is Made in China too. It's simply a matter of sorting out which is which.
You lose voltage on voltmeter wires seems. yuo must meashure voltage directly from generator, to not lose voltage on wires. U=RxI. 12Rx1.3A=15.6W - in your video 20.28 W
Thanks for review , think I give it a miss , anything from China is very suss these days
not one hour,,,,12 hours of cranking without stoping
junk item,,,needs capacitors maybe....to be good...and biger generator,,,more power in amps
The capacitors (alone) aren't the issue. The switching power supply is being asked to operate in too many ranges for the capacitor/inductor combination within. Ideally there would be a different input/output capacitor and inductor value for each of the selectable voltage ranges.
How would you upgrade it? Would it be possible to add an electrolytic capacitor?