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That looks like a drill motor no wonder it doesn't perform very well to generate as much as possible

They are experts at cutting corners and hiding it.

If i made a 1,200w hand crank generator , would it be the most powerful in the world? Being this^ is only 20w

I'm interested in a pedal generator that powers a super efficient e-bike motor. Would love to hear people's ideas on that...It's probably just one more fantasy to get enough power by pedaling that wouldn't wear me out but I'm thinking of putting it on my back wheel in addition to my 1000 watt front hub motor. Or maybe just use the pedal generator to boost the power going to the single front motor! Less weight and complexity.

Why not use the enclosure and drive gearing and pair it to a different more appropriate motor and electronics? Unfortunately, even if you did that and put not only a more appropriate motor but a much higher quality one, your arm is really the limiting factor no matter what. This is an unfamiliar exercise for which you do not have good conditioning for performing for long periods of time. (you have probably never turned a handle in your life for a 1/2 hour straight) Even a very efficient set up is going to need at least 4-5 additional mechanical watts into the motor to end up with 20 watts at the load. Even charging an NIMH 2500mah AA battery is going to consume over 3 watt hours (they are not 100% efficient, especially at high current). Even if the battery could take 2500ma, which most cannot without damaging them, that would be an hour of turning this thing. I would not want to turn that handle for an hour straight even without an electrical load on it. Maybe a month of doing it every day for an hour might leave you with a build up of the right muscles and "muscle memory" to not become fatigued.

Who cares if the generator is capable of putting out 20 watts? Your arm really cannot do this continuously for very long. For 20 watts of output, think more like 26-30 watts mechanical input.

Maybe someone here can help me. I bought this for emergencies. I tested it out the box due to a coincidental power outtage when it arrived. I wanted to charge my phone. I set it to 5 as it says everywhere to do. I cranked for 30mins desperate to charge my phone and all it did was continue to lose power. The phone said it was charging but just kept dying. I've tried it on several devices since then and it's the same story and there's like no info online about this issue. Any ideas? Or ideas for a fix?? Side note. On devices with more than 50% power there is more resistance, but its not consistent!! Sometimes it slips like it's charging a dead battery then goes back to stiff again.

Maybe someone here can help me. I bought this for emergencies. I tested it out the box due to a coincidental power outtage when it arrived. I wanted to charge my phone. I set it to 5 as it says everywhere to do. I cranked for 30mins desperate to charge my phone and all it did was continue to lose power. The phone said it was charging but just kept dying. I've tried it on several devices since then and it's the same story and there's like no info online about this issue. Any ideas? Or ideas for a fix?? Side note. On devices with more than 50% power there is more resistance, but its not consistent!! Sometimes it slips like it's charging a dead battery then goes back to stiff again.

I have just got mine today and been playing, have figured out that it can do 3amps at 5v if you can turn it fast enough and some small mods needed. Firstly you wont manage to maintain 3 amps for long its hard work. So what i noticed is initially similar results to your video untill i realised when i hit about an amp there was this 'slipping feeling' like the load dissapeared.... anyway long story short the usb devices start panicking and shutoff when theres too much electrical noise. Mods done, thicker wire from motor to board, 2 x 680uf capacitors in parallel with the motor (before the diode on the pcb) Made a 12v sockets tail to try an external regulator usb 3.0 and pdc. So what i found is yes the internal regulator does convert less energy than a better external one, but the internal one was still able to hit 2.4 amps and the external one could hit 3amps but you have to go crazy on the handle and you need a usb device that will accept the current or it throttles then the lever goes slack and you smack your knuckles on something. Using a type c torch with 3 18650 cells inside it would accept whatever i could get out without limiting, and 2 amps is possible at 5v with the internal reg, and 2.8amps with the external. The main issue from factory is the silly 1 amp wire on the motor to the board (it gets very hot), upgrade it to as thick as you have to kill the voltage drop which is the main issue, secondly some very beefy caps to stop the devices panicking when the voltage is irregular when turning the handle, you want enough capacitance to make the output fully stable. Super caps would be good but i just used what i had. I put them before the blocking diode on the pcb due to inrush current, i didnt want to blow the diode. Sleeved the wobbly handle with a piece of brass bush that i machined at work. So if you have time give this a try then measure the current and see if you get the same result as me. The motor is suprisingly powerfull as a generator i spun it on a drill (not too fast) and could keep a solid 3 amps so it sees the gearing could do with less rpm on the handle and more torque to make it more sustainable. Thanks, Mat.

the secret is always in the pully system to more points engin starter is just a kicker you just want a yank cord instead of hand that means motor loop power enough to start the motor loops around to charge the outer moter but pull other charge makers just rip cord and go its a loop kicker ...

add a bank of super capacitors .

at 17 minutes or so Is the crackling noise interference from the dc motor?

Yes i know what you mean. I bought this unit and filled it with 8/ 2.7v 100f super caps. I have also swapped out the circuit board and replaced it with a 4amp mppt regulation board. I can output what voltage and amps output that i want.

Thing looks super chintzy

Thanks! I make my own setup with this HCG motor. The same conclusions. Real crank power is 5W. This is it. No more.

You got the cats to get the mouse but now the cats are friends with the mice what are you going to do get a dog to get rid of the cats and the mice and then the dogs going to be friends with the cats and the mice pretty soon you ain't going to have a place to live sir get some mouse traps some poison

Mouse really said U WANNA FIGHT BISH

let him out! <3

Tom and Jerry when the mouse actually fights back

What tracks/intersection was this in PP?

hello can we know what type and model dynamo was used in the generator?? can you also suggest on the type of dynamo and its specs that would be great to use in a bike generator? thank you so much

LaserSaber did an upgrade for this same unit to make it a Boost Pack with super capacitors. He did it internally, but my plan is to make an external pack. I have loads of USB lighting in my container shed that can charge off simple solar packs but I like to cover every base for the dark times. His vid th-cam.com/video/wqrPo6RI2x8/w-d-xo.html

I think your power wires are too thin. But then; so are USB wires.

Are there better options besides using bare copper wire for the conductors in the connector? I have to imagine there's some kind of pin socket that would be a better solution, especially now that the supply issues are largely over.

It would be interesting to add a dial (a potentiometer, I believe) to make it variable speed! Do you think that would be realistic? (Especially if you hook it up to a slightly higher voltage battery... Like a 20V Dewalt battery)

junk item,,,needs capacitors maybe....to be good...and biger generator,,,more power in amps

not one hour,,,,12 hours of cranking without stoping

Hello. Can it be used to charge the Yaesu ft4x or Baofeng uv5 radio?

For a few dollars more it would be better to replace the crank with an antique wind-up type mechanism that lasts at least an hour. Anyway congratulations!

For a few dollars more it would be better to replace the crank with an antique wind-up type mechanism that lasts at least an hour. Anyway congratulations!

I have not seen this video that you posted when I commented on the prior video you made on this product. The fact that the CFL lamp rated 13 watts at 12 volts DC did not light up until you had a capacitor simply explains that the DC generated is not filtered a whole lot. If you were to hook your oscilloscope on the load as you were using without the cap, you would see the ripple riding on the DC voltage. By adding the external cap you now smoothened out the ripple which is the most likely unfiltered DC from the commutator of the motor / generator. This you can see easily on the scope when you hook up that big cap on how the ripple will now be reduced allowing a more pure DC to be fed into the lamp's internal converter to operate. Does it specify 13 watts on the lamp? I have seen CFL lamps with lower wattage ratings down to six watts maybe. It's been a while for me now that all my lamps are LED based. Either way, I can see that you were working with everything clamped down in order to make it light up. There was a lot of mechanical force there that was short lived, lol. Back to my findings as well that power comes at a price of torque. For any generator, the maximum power efficiency will be when the external load resistance is matched with that of the internal resistance of the generator. In other wards, 50% of the energy will be lost at the source of the generator, and the other half will go to your load. It's fundamental rule if I remember correctly with efficiency of energy transfer. I think they refer to it as a balanced load for optimum power transfer. The same idea applies to impedance matching transformers for the best possible signal strength transmission, but that is all RF stuff.

20 watts on such a tiny crank, I don't think so. Did you load test it using a resistive load and a real power meter? My generator that I made can at best do around maybe 10 watts. And good luck cranking after two watts by hand, the torque gets very in your face, not easy at all to maintain this kind of force over prolonged time. My thoughts is maybe fractional watt at best for that tiny motor. Power really needs torque to transfer energy in big numbers. Any way, it is compact overall, but I would not believe them specs. Any generator that produces some real amount of power, usually has some sort of gas engine driving it with real horse power to create realistic energy to do practical work, otherwise we are talking micro power under one watt of energy.

So whats the best one for 5volt 2 Amps?

I imagine it's junk until you need one, better than nothing 😂

Thanks for review , think I give it a miss , anything from China is very suss these days

You boring bastard just attach to a phone and crack it up and see if it starts charging.

Who gives a shit!

5:53 what's that on you cap?

I'd love it if someone would sell or release the schematic and foil pattern for a PCB to adapt old cordless drills to be crank generators, I see them used all the time at thrift stores etc going for next to nothing because the cost of buying new batteries isn't worth it, but some of them have pretty heavy duty motors and gear boxes in them that are probably superior to what's in that Banggood generator. Maybe have the kit designed to optimize the output and suppress the noise of a 12 or 18v drill motor and leave working out the mechanics of making it crankable to the person? If this kind of kit is available somewhere already someone please direct me to it. As far as suggested mods to the Banggood generator I'd attach pieces of angle iron to the sides to allow it to be clamped or screwed down and one inverted piece across the front to force it to stay flush with the edge of the table so you don't end up having it creep around and bash the handle and/or knuckles on the edge. The angle iron can be salvaged from an old bed frame for free if you grab one someone is throwing out, for the $30 I might get one of these generators just to see what kinds of mechanical enhancements I can come up with.

change motor with large one to get more AMP but check if the regulator can handle more power, motors used for wind electricity generator are the best, one used here is a chiness low quality

Do you sell these?

Planning on putting 8 super capacitors in series and swap in a buck converter with QC3 for both usb ports. I believe most of the 20watt can then be used for charging then.

Question ❓ if if I replace the hand crank with blades and placed in a water vortex to turn it could I change a 12 volt lead acid battery and would I need to connect something like a solar charger controller

Problem with Chinese motors is that materials like copper, magnets and other components are expensive and the purity of copper as well as thickness and number of windings with good quality magnets, is a pipe dream when it comes to Chinese motors. The ultimate problem is that stupid consumer should stop buying these crap until the manufacturers learn their lesson.

Chinese crap, needs more gear ratio, needs stainless steel well lubed gears, doesn’t need long handle at all, since it is Chinese crap that doesn’t need any torque to turn it.

You need 15 volts to charge a 12 volt battery or capacitor bank

What is the gear ratio (revolutions per crank) and are the inside gears made of metal?

I GUESS the CAPS MOD now becomes an absolute essential for these then, to make for that 100% efficiency.

So I have seen this unit IS inefficient for it's main uses as far as I can tell from the data learned. That is a bummer. I will have to do some of my own tests to see if it is actually viable. Seems the unit is wasting about 1/2 of the energy, this SHOULD be addressed. Only the 15v application is 100% efficient? Is there any extra you have learned in the 3 or so years since this was created @M O'Connell?

also JUST remembered one of the MOST IMPORTANT basics. YOU are operating from the REGULATED SIDE...all of it is chinese so therefore pretty hard for us to tell. THE RIGHT SIDE is the one the is unregulated, so therefore THAT would drastically affect your calculations/measurements.