I’m trying to adjust the meter correctly but I don’t know the right conditions. Would it be best to do it in a sunny day and adjust with the sunny 16 method, like 400 asa & 1/500 & f 16? Then the needle should be in the middle of the exposure interval?
do you happen to know where i could source a mamiya CWP light meter? got one last month but the guy at my local vintage camera repair shop said he couldn't find anything in the way of parts to fix the dead meter. love the channel, thought if anyone else might know it would be you. such a nice camera otherwise... sunny 16 for me!
Probably one the sharpest looking cameras Mamiya made. If the galvanometer is intact the meter is probably serviceable, otherwise it is sunny 16 or locating a donor camera.
Can you tell or even better show, how to adjust the light meter on a Canon A-1 and AE-1 (p), there are several potentiometers but which do what, i don't know. I'm currently in the process to switch the electronics on a a canon A-1 due to a stubborn EEEE EE error (and yes, tried the reset method)
Often times as you mention a reset by removing the lens and pushing up on the aperture control lever and or setting the double exposure lever to wind a second time will clear the EEEEE EE error. When it does not and no breaks in the flex can be located the circuit switch is probably your best course. The three variable resistors from prism peak down - (1/1000 VR) (BV Level VR) (BV Gain VR) Before making adjustments clean the shutter holding magnet and check and recheck the clock frequency. 1)Adjust the 1/1000 speed. Measure the speed with the lens off. 2)Check the clock frequency (in lieu of a calibrated scope, check the shutter speed at 1 second) The clock frequency is adjusted by the value of the CLK resistor, located between the CPU and OSC/Int IC. 3)Adjust the auto speeds Set the mode to aperture priority, F5.6 and the ASA to 100. Adjust the (BV Gain) for linear response between LV-9 and LV-15. Adjust the (VR Level) for 1/125 at LV-12. 4)Check the auto aperture at LV-12 and ASA 100 the exposure can be decreased by moving the small orange wire to the AT/Flex forward to a empty land. Move both the white and orange wires for a greater decrease the exposure.
Thank you very much for that answer, that would make it much easier to tune the camera back in spec. And you mean with the clock speed, the speed that the micro processor is running at? and what is the normal speed?
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
I’m trying to adjust the meter correctly but I don’t know the right conditions. Would it be best to do it in a sunny day and adjust with the sunny 16 method, like 400 asa & 1/500 & f 16? Then the needle should be in the middle of the exposure interval?
do you happen to know where i could source a mamiya CWP light meter? got one last month but the guy at my local vintage camera repair shop said he couldn't find anything in the way of parts to fix the dead meter. love the channel, thought if anyone else might know it would be you. such a nice camera otherwise... sunny 16 for me!
Probably one the sharpest looking cameras Mamiya made. If the galvanometer is intact the meter is probably serviceable, otherwise it is sunny 16 or locating a donor camera.
And off coarse thanks for the great for the great video's
and thank you for your interest in FOC
Can you tell or even better show, how to adjust the light meter on a Canon A-1 and AE-1 (p), there are several potentiometers but which do what, i don't know.
I'm currently in the process to switch the electronics on a a canon A-1 due to a stubborn EEEE EE error (and yes, tried the reset method)
Often times as you mention a reset by removing the lens and pushing up on the aperture control lever and or setting the double exposure lever to wind a second time will clear the EEEEE EE error. When it does not and no breaks in the flex can be located the circuit switch is probably your best course. The three variable resistors from prism peak down - (1/1000 VR) (BV Level VR) (BV Gain VR)
Before making adjustments clean the shutter holding magnet and check and recheck the clock frequency.
1)Adjust the 1/1000 speed. Measure the speed with the lens off. 2)Check the clock frequency (in lieu of a calibrated scope, check the shutter speed at 1 second) The clock frequency is adjusted by the value of the CLK resistor, located between the CPU and OSC/Int IC. 3)Adjust the auto speeds Set the mode to aperture priority, F5.6 and the ASA to 100. Adjust the (BV Gain) for linear response between LV-9 and LV-15. Adjust the (VR Level) for 1/125 at LV-12. 4)Check the auto aperture at LV-12 and ASA 100 the exposure can be decreased by moving the small orange wire to the AT/Flex forward to a empty land. Move both the white and orange wires for a greater decrease the exposure.
Thank you very much for that answer, that would make it much easier to tune the camera back in spec.
And you mean with the clock speed, the speed that the micro processor is running at? and what is the normal speed?