thank you so much, my Rollei 35 has a stuck shutter, was nervous to open it up. But follow this video step by step I solved the problem and put it back together! amazing, thanks
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! you saved me hours trying to understand the service manual and a ton of money that I would have spent to send it to a reputable rollei technician abroad with covid going on!
I don’t see you using any oils and grease during the assembly of this jewel with the innards of a German watch! Perhaps you can comment on the oils and greases needed in this beauty of a camera!
I would never have realized these little gems were sooooo complex. I’m currently looking at my father in laws broken rollei 35 wondering what’s wrong with it? I feel sad I can’t give it another life. Never would I attempt something so difficult! Beautiful to watch it being restored
Very nice, one of the most intricate repairs you've done here. However if I get one of these that need repair I'll send it to you. Great job, regards Tom, now residing in Arizona .
Beautifully done ! I have one with a non working meter. I can’t find a meter anyway but I think I would hesitate to go through that much disassembly and …reassembly ! Taking still photos as we would go along could help but it is still an unbelievable task !!!
Nice to see a detailed Rollei 35 video from you. Narration is great as always. I'm not sure if you have ever run across one before, but if you are ever working on a Topcon RE Super (or one of it's family), it would be great to have a video detailing some of the servicing. The chain drive linking all the controls to the meter is a little daunting!
I am clearly lucky I didn't bung anything up in my Schneider version. One of those three set/alignment screws for the lens assembly has somehow worked itself free (likely did so over time and I never noticed) and at some point fell out into the lens area. I've not shot the 35 in three or so years and only exercise it once in a while off the shelf. Heard something rattling around and opened and closed the lens a couple of times before I finally opened the back and found it jangling about... had no idea where it was from or what precisely it was. This video helped me determine that. Very lucky it didn't wedge itself somewhere unfortunate and do real damage - but it must have been blocking something in the timing as my slow shutter speeds were hanging the past couple times I exercised them. But I located where it should live, replaced it and blew the rear of the lens area and timing portion out with air several times and voila. Slow shutter speeds sorted. It must've been somewhere it very much should NOT have been. And the lens extension and retracting now feels much more solid. Imagine that! Thank you for this vid. My 35 was my grandfathers and it was his favorite of all the 35mm shooters he had over his years. I keep it safe and keep it well and understand why it was at the top of his list.
Many thanks for this video which allowed me to restore two Rolléi 35 S. Sincerely Dominique Desrue Photograher and collector of silver cameras from Paris
If you would take your place here on the stage by me, i have this oscar that has your name on it for such a wonderfull preformance.......ladies and gentlemen a big round of applause if you please......
Hi ! Very well done and I also like the narration which is not like something written down, I have the same camera, the meter stopped working but when I see the problems that could arise as we progress through the dismantling I prefer to leave it alone and use a hand meter if need be. This way my camera remains as new ! Thank you for the video.
thank you for this video and for all the videos you do! I like very much how you show everything in detail an explain everything in clear words. it sometimes even becomes funny when you try to explain that an assymteric part needs to be put in a special direction, while a symmetric part could be installed either way. i love it! please keep the videos coming! oh and by the way: could you show, where the longer times of the rollei 35 are sitting and how they may be revived?
Hi Louki Q. when you are looking at the inside of your Nizo, triggering the mechanism you are, of course, looking at an empty camera and …..that is why the wind up “key” does not turn or even pull out of its resting place. When the film cassette is inserted it pushes on a tiny lever which gets things going. I have a 561 they are terrific well made cameras. I hope this helps you.
Holy cow, that's a lot of work. Daunting. Just wondering, I have never done any repair work on cameras, but have some experience building/ repairing watches. Generally, gloves are always worn when working on watch movements to prevent the oils from our hands from damaging/corroding parts. Would you recommend them for this kind of work too? Also, I noticed you never cleaned away dust particles. Not an issue? Doesn't matter? Or just not shown? And would you recommend lubbing any parts? If so, what oil should be used? Cheers.
Thank you for this video. Just purchased one Today and it has fungus on the lens. Looks like I have to tear the whole thing apart in order to clean just the lens
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have a Rollei XF35 that I discovered in my father's belongings. It seems to have a shutter/film advance lever issue. When I crank the lever, as it reaches the end of the rotation, the shutter automatically fires. I do not have a battery or film in the camera at the moment but this should not affect this issue I think? You wouldn't have any tips or guidance to how I can resolve this? Thanks!
Hey i opened up my rollei 35 led the other day to clean some fungal growth on the lens element. Now after having it cleaned when i tried to put it together, i had an issue placing the aperture blades. Could u help me out with this?
i fixed my canon ftb camera.I dropped it and its timing is offset.I then accidentally broke an cocking arm of the mechanism which i would have to remake the part with aluminum sheet,heat treat other parts and screw the arm in.I also figure it out that the film advance shaft's clutch(under the bottom) is out of phase and i have to replace the original cam-action cap with an diy which solve the timing problem.It's so difficult to figure where the problem is and then i did an incredible job to fix broken parts.
As a heads up, it's is absolutely NOT necessary to disassemble the entire camera to get the lens tube out! Step one: disassemble the front lens assembly as detailed in this video. Step two: remove the bottom cover by sliding the latch to its unlocked position and sliding the cover downwards. Step three: remove the 4 silver screws on the bottom cover plate. this plate also retains the pressure plate and both can now be removed. Step six: remove the 4 black screws that hold the film gate in place and remove it. Step 7: push out the lens/shutter tube out through the opening in the rear of the camera. And this is all that is required to remove the lens tube assembly. The method in the video does give you access to the entire camera mechanism for performing a proper CLA, but if you're only having shutter or aperture issues, the method I described is more efficient. The rest of the steps regarding the disassembly of the shutter and aperture are as described in this video. You're welcome!
What was the Oops when the cover is removed? could be ... the wind lever gear moves up and becomes un timed to the advanced gear.. you have red alignment marks so it looks OK. The shutter button has a internal button on the bottom which can fall off if you lift up. I did not see it fall out so what was the Oops? I ask because those were the two Oops I had when I removed the top cover. Now my next worry is removing the front lens and returning it back, check for infinity focus? There is no check unless you process a roll of film or does 1: 3.5 on top = correct placement?
Hi, My yashica fx-3 film camera stucked. it's shutter is stucked inside the camera so the shutter is not vissible.it's vinting liver is not moving .what will do?
Hello. Can you do a video on Nizo super8 camera? I have one that I can hear the motor is running but the wheel that turns the film doesn’t move. I don’t know how to open it 😭
Hello, your video is very informative, but not sure if I have the skills necessary to duplicate what you did. My Rollei 35S has an issue with slow shutter speeds and without a shutter speed testing machine, I can't say if the faster speeds are correct or not. Would I be able to send my camera to you for repair? Thanks! Steve
Hello:) I bought such a camera inexpensively, but with a note LED and that I am interested in cameras and optics, I think I can repair it, looking at your film, which is amazing !!!. My camera has a broken - blocked movie transport, the shutter does not respond to trigger and the electronics respond to the power supply. A red LED lights up in the viewfinder. Maybe you have some advice before I break it into pieces? Greetings :)))
Sometimes after I take a shot, the rewind lever doesn't work. After a couple of attempts it then sometimes catches on and I can rewind. Is that a serious issue or easy to repair?
Hello I need some help! My Minolta XG 1 is not working the shutter curtain is stuck half way I’ve watch all of your other videos on how to fix it but nothing is working. Do you have an email? The nearest camera store is 4hrs from me so any suggestions would be helpful.
Good god….I’m pretty handy. I’ve repaired mechanics watches but I know when I’m beat. I’m just not familiar enough with the camera mechanism and I know that a dreaded screw may go flying across my office. Nope, I’ll pay. I see it now, the money will be well spent.
Hey, I just did this repair and had the same issue. There are two gears on the top of the camera beneath the top cover. With the camera facing forward, the larger one on the left is the one where the advance lever affixes to. The one on the right is held down with a screw. It is what controls both the tension of the advance lever (its ability to snap back to its original position) and the cocking of the shutter (under normal conditions, when you advance the lever directly after firing the shutter, you will hear a click and then a stop in movement. When the advance lever returns to its position, two more clicks can be heard). You need to increase the tension on the spring that sits underneath the gear to the right. Take off the top plate of the camera and then add the advance lever directly back on the gear to the left so that you can manipulate it. With the lever attached, remove both the lever and the gear together. Before moving to the gear on the right that has the spring beneath it, take a look at the little protruding piece of metal beneath the spot where the gear and lever sat. You'll need to make sure that the gear sits on that piece of metal properly. If the gear is sitting wrong, that little piece of metal hits against protrusions underneath the gear. So first, look at the shapes beneath that gear and how they relate to the little protruding metal piece on the body of the camera. The gear will need to be able to rotate ~210 degrees or so before it hits the stopping point, which are those little protruding metal pieces. Sorry, I don't know what else to call them. Moving on to the gear on the right, you will need to increase the tension on the spring beneath the gear. Remove the screw holding it in place, and, with the gear and advance lever on the left still removed, lift the gear on the right slightly. Don't take it out yet, just lift it so it disengages with the pieces beneath it. The gear rotates counter-clockwise to increase tension, and you might be able to see the spring beneath -- it has a small arm (on the bottom of the spring) that hooks against the body of the camera at ~11oclock. The other end of the spring hooks on a little lip of plastic that juts out from underside of the gear. So, lifting the gear slightly, turn it counter-clockwise. Try to look for the little arm hooking against the camera body. Note whether it is increasing tension or not. If it is not, watch the spring. Does it look loose? Does it look like the radius of the spring is getting larger as you turn the gear? Chances are, the spring isn't hooking to the little piece of plastic that juts out of the underside of the gear. Go ahead and take the gear out. Look at it for a bit, and understand how the top of the spring can hook on that little piece of plastic on the underside of the gear. Use your fingers or tweezers to hook it around yourself. Don't try to mess with its shape or anything, jut hook it, than spin the gear a little in your fingers and let the little arm (the bottom hook of the spring) catch against your finger. Feel the tension you've created. Then, try to place the gear back in the camera, not all the way down so that it engages with the other gears, but slightly lifted, and try to get the bottom arm of the spring to hook against the spot on the body around 11oclock. Turn it counter-clockwise like you did before, slightly lifted so it is not trying to cock the shutter (you'll hear clicking if it is doing that) and watch and feel if it is causing tension. Tension it a little bit, and if you think you've got the spring arms in the right spot, press the gear all the way down. Hold it down with your finger. Next, turn the gear counter-clockwise. We want to cock the shutter now. Turn it and listen to the clicking. You will need to hold the gear in place with your fingers -- it's going to be a little difficult to turn because the tension and that's okay. When you hear a louder click and notice the gear will not move anymore, that is the point where that advance lever is supposed to snap back to its original position. Holding the right gear in place with you finger so that it doesn't snap back, place the left gear with the advance lever attached back on as if you have just advanced the film but have not let the lever return to the original position against the body. In other words, place the advance lever and gear such that the advance lever is pointing forward and very slightly to the left. Look at the advance lever -- its almost shaped like a 30-60-90 right triangle, except with a rounded bottom. Look up a picture of a 30-60-90 triangle so you know what I'm saying -- but when the advance lever is fully advanced, the x-rad-3 side of it should not be perpendicular with the body, but should be pointed a little to the left. It should form ~80 angle with the body of the camera. So, while the right gear has tension, right after it has clicked and ceased being able to move, place the left gear and advance lever as I described -- as if you've just cocked the lever and haven't let it release back to its original position. Then, carefully let pressure off the gear on the right. Let the advance lever move back to its original position as the tension of the gear on the right eases. The lever should end on the body of the camera, and there should be a little tension remaining in the spring. Fire the shutter. Next, test it out. Hold down the gear on the right or place the screw back on to keep it in place. Advance the lever and listen for the click, and let it come back. Listen for the two clicks as it comes back. Fire the shutter each time. When it seems not bad, make sure to put the screw back on the right gear. Before putting the top plate back on, test it 100 times. You may need to adjust the tension on the gear on the right. If you do this, it may mess up the whole thing and you may need to do that whole process again, so bear that in mind. I spent a long time messing around with this piece of the camera. Hope this helps, good luck!
Noooooo you installed the shutter blades backwards! The plate came off AFTER the blades but you put the blades back on first and then the cover plate :O
I have just reassembled my roller 35 using the video. I have also installed the blades and plate in the wrong order😱. Seems to work though. Should I correct it?
Do not put oil in the camera shutter blade such as this leaf shutter design.Because the spring load is very weak and the blades will stick together.I lost almost a year of preservations after i even fixed my grandfather's rangfinder rollei xf 35,for removing remained oil that keep emerging from nowhere due to my mistake.
I think you do the camera world a disservice. You take this camera apart, make it look very easy, and reassembling it looks doable. Do you realize how many innocent cameras will be disemboweled with no hope of recovery because you made it look possible for anyone? It's a shame. Those camera deaths...😫 Great video. Thank you.
Better that than the knowledge slowly being lost, which was surely happening until recently. Videos like this also give instruction and hope to those that absolutely *can* manage a repair of this kind given the care and the will. Think of all those saves.
Oops. It was a hanging curve ball waiting to be poked in to left field (not feild). It seems Werkstatt für Feinmechanik und Optik, Franke & Heidecke (or Franke & Heidecke for short) did not know of the spelling memory rhyme… I before E except after C, Or when sounded as "a" As in "neighbor" or "weigh." And Rollei not Rollie. Albeit, at the height of confusion, so it goes, a forfeit must be made to the acknowledgment of weird and wonderful spellings… possibly from an 1855 spelling textbook… At the end of a word if you find silent e, Then throw it away, -- for there it can't be When an affix you add with a vowel commencing; Thus "rogue" will make "roguish," and "fence" will make "fencing"; But if able or ous follow soft c or g, Then, "change" you make "changeable", keeping the e. Will not attest to its accuracy or authenticity, but catchy and memorable it ain't. Thank you for your fun comment and pointing our the error.
My Olympus XA is having some issues with the focusing tab. Maybe you guys could help. The focusing tab isn't running as smooth as it did. It has a remarkably high resistance in the focus range of 0.85 m to 1.5m , from 3 m to infinity something seems to get unstuck and the focusing tab starts running smooth again. Nonetheless if I want to focus under 3m the resistance comes back and makes my heart ache. Any clues or tips are welcome!
The "lame narration" is what makes these videos great.
thank you so much, my Rollei 35 has a stuck shutter, was nervous to open it up. But follow this video step by step I solved the problem and put it back together! amazing, thanks
Personally I like the narration. Especially fond of the creative names for some components. :)
Well all right then, your support is appreciated... sometimes the same part might take on several names in the course of one short video.
Thank you SO MUCH for this video! you saved me hours trying to understand the service manual and a ton of money that I would have spent to send it to a reputable rollei technician abroad with covid going on!
I get goosebumps just by watching this. This is the kind of repair effort that I only dream I could ever do.
Great video, I’m too scared to repair any of my film cameras but seeing this video helped me understand the inner workings of my Rollei 35. Thanks!
From this video I learned that I should pay someone else to fix my Rollei 35. This is alot of work. Thank you for sharing the process.
No problem and thank you for your comment.
I really like your narration
I missed this one. This is needed and wonderful. Thank you endlesslessly.
Good narration. Easy to listen to, and makes me smile. Thanks.
Your are welcome and thank you as your comment also brings a smile.
This is really a great video where you with your narration, and good close up filming shows what’s actually going on, thank you for that 😃👍✅
Your input and comments are always greatly appreciated.
I don’t see you using any oils and grease during the assembly of this jewel with the innards of a German watch! Perhaps you can comment on the oils and greases needed in this beauty of a camera!
I would never have realized these little gems were sooooo complex. I’m currently looking at my father in laws broken rollei 35 wondering what’s wrong with it? I feel sad I can’t give it another life. Never would I attempt something so difficult! Beautiful to watch it being restored
Very nice, one of the most intricate repairs you've done here. However if I get one of these that need repair I'll send it to you. Great job, regards Tom, now residing in Arizona .
Good Luck Arizona Man... nice to hear from you.
Beautifully done ! I have one with a non working meter. I can’t find a meter anyway but I think I would hesitate to go through that much disassembly and …reassembly ! Taking still photos as we would go along could help but it is still an unbelievable task !!!
You sir! are a god!
Shutter repair itself is simple, but dismantle from the first screw and put them all back without your video is impossible.
Thank you 🎀🎀
Amazing work. RS. Canada
Perfect - that's what I've been waiting for. Thank you!
Would be great if you'd once do the same with a Contax T. Shutter isn't working in mine.
It has been awhile in the making and you are most welcome.
@@dominikphilipp4234 Always a possibility.
@@FixOldCameras It was marvelous. Thank you for it.
Narration made the daunting task a little more enjoyable. Good closeups and good work. Thanks for sharing this knowledge
You are welcome. And thank you for your words of support.
Nice to see a detailed Rollei 35 video from you. Narration is great as always. I'm not sure if you have ever run across one before, but if you are ever working on a Topcon RE Super (or one of it's family), it would be great to have a video detailing some of the servicing. The chain drive linking all the controls to the meter is a little daunting!
I am clearly lucky I didn't bung anything up in my Schneider version. One of those three set/alignment screws for the lens assembly has somehow worked itself free (likely did so over time and I never noticed) and at some point fell out into the lens area. I've not shot the 35 in three or so years and only exercise it once in a while off the shelf. Heard something rattling around and opened and closed the lens a couple of times before I finally opened the back and found it jangling about... had no idea where it was from or what precisely it was. This video helped me determine that.
Very lucky it didn't wedge itself somewhere unfortunate and do real damage - but it must have been blocking something in the timing as my slow shutter speeds were hanging the past couple times I exercised them. But I located where it should live, replaced it and blew the rear of the lens area and timing portion out with air several times and voila. Slow shutter speeds sorted. It must've been somewhere it very much should NOT have been. And the lens extension and retracting now feels much more solid. Imagine that!
Thank you for this vid. My 35 was my grandfathers and it was his favorite of all the 35mm shooters he had over his years. I keep it safe and keep it well and understand why it was at the top of his list.
Many thanks for this video which allowed me to restore two Rolléi 35 S. Sincerely Dominique Desrue Photograher and collector of silver cameras from Paris
Very detail and clear demonstration. Thanks
If you would take your place here on the stage by me, i have this oscar that has your name on it for such a wonderfull preformance.......ladies and gentlemen a big round of applause if you please......
Love the heat trick
Hi ! Very well done and I also like the narration which is not like something written down, I have the same camera, the meter stopped working but when I see the problems that could arise as we progress through the dismantling I prefer to leave it alone and use a hand meter if need be. This way my camera remains as new ! Thank you for the video.
thank you for this video and for all the videos you do! I like very much how you show everything in detail an explain everything in clear words. it sometimes even becomes funny when you try to explain that an assymteric part needs to be put in a special direction, while a symmetric part could be installed either way. i love it! please keep the videos coming! oh and by the way: could you show, where the longer times of the rollei 35 are sitting and how they may be revived?
Really useful video, usual problems for Rollie 35.
Right on.
Incredible video. Well done, well explained. Just extraordinary. Thanks for sharing !
Man, thats a fiddly one. Nice work.
Indeed. Fiddly is the word.
thank you for this video! I repaired my rollei 35 :)
Hi Louki Q. when you are looking at the inside of your Nizo, triggering the mechanism you are, of course, looking at an empty camera and …..that is why the wind up “key” does not turn or even pull out of its resting place. When the film cassette is inserted it pushes on a tiny lever which gets things going. I have a 561 they are terrific well made cameras. I hope this helps you.
Excellent, thank you!
Fantastic video, subscribed.
Well done 🍾
Super helpful, thanks so much!
Excellent!!
Holy cow, that's a lot of work. Daunting. Just wondering, I have never done any repair work on cameras, but have some experience building/ repairing watches. Generally, gloves are always worn when working on watch movements to prevent the oils from our hands from damaging/corroding parts. Would you recommend them for this kind of work too? Also, I noticed you never cleaned away dust particles. Not an issue? Doesn't matter? Or just not shown? And would you recommend lubbing any parts? If so, what oil should be used? Cheers.
A veritable Icon of the 70s
Right on.
Thank you, I was useful.
Thank you for this video. Just purchased one Today and it has fungus on the lens. Looks like I have to tear the whole thing apart in order to clean just the lens
Hi, thanks for the great video. I have a Rollei XF35 that I discovered in my father's belongings.
It seems to have a shutter/film advance lever issue. When I crank the lever, as it reaches the end of the rotation, the shutter automatically fires. I do not have a battery or film in the camera at the moment but this should not affect this issue I think?
You wouldn't have any tips or guidance to how I can resolve this?
Thanks!
Hey i opened up my rollei 35 led the other day to clean some fungal growth on the lens element. Now after having it cleaned when i tried to put it together, i had an issue placing the aperture blades. Could u help me out with this?
Can you please do a video of Minolta x700 shutter? Mine is loose and I couldn't figure it out!
i fixed my canon ftb camera.I dropped it and its timing is offset.I then accidentally broke an cocking arm of the mechanism which i would have to remake the part with aluminum sheet,heat treat other parts and screw the arm in.I also figure it out that the film advance shaft's clutch(under the bottom) is out of phase and i have to replace the original cam-action cap with an diy which solve the timing problem.It's so difficult to figure where the problem is and then i did an incredible job to fix broken parts.
As a heads up, it's is absolutely NOT necessary to disassemble the entire camera to get the lens tube out! Step one: disassemble the front lens assembly as detailed in this video. Step two: remove the bottom cover by sliding the latch to its unlocked position and sliding the cover downwards. Step three: remove the 4 silver screws on the bottom cover plate. this plate also retains the pressure plate and both can now be removed. Step six: remove the 4 black screws that hold the film gate in place and remove it. Step 7: push out the lens/shutter tube out through the opening in the rear of the camera. And this is all that is required to remove the lens tube assembly. The method in the video does give you access to the entire camera mechanism for performing a proper CLA, but if you're only having shutter or aperture issues, the method I described is more efficient. The rest of the steps regarding the disassembly of the shutter and aperture are as described in this video. You're welcome!
Is it possible to lubricate the focus mechanism this way if that becomes very stiff ?
What is the spanner you are using
What was the Oops when the cover is removed? could be ... the wind lever gear moves up and becomes un timed to the advanced gear.. you have red alignment marks so it looks OK. The shutter button has a internal button on the bottom which can fall off if you lift up. I did not see it fall out so what was the Oops? I ask because those were the two Oops I had when I removed the top cover. Now my next worry is removing the front lens and returning it back, check for infinity focus? There is no check unless you process a roll of film or does 1: 3.5 on top = correct placement?
Hi, My yashica fx-3 film camera stucked. it's shutter is stucked inside the camera so the shutter is not vissible.it's vinting liver is not moving .what will do?
I have a Mamiya TOWER 18B camera that has issues with the shutter I was wondering if you could help me out !
amazing😻😻
Hello. Can you do a video on Nizo super8 camera? I have one that I can hear the motor is running but the wheel that turns the film doesn’t move. I don’t know how to open it 😭
Hello, your video is very informative, but not sure if I have the skills necessary to duplicate what you did. My Rollei 35S has an issue with slow shutter speeds and without a shutter speed testing machine, I can't say if the faster speeds are correct or not. Would I be able to send my camera to you for repair? Thanks! Steve
Thank you, but you might surprise yourself. phototronic.biz/service - here is the link to my repair shop
hello I have a problem with putting the top cover back on the camera. the lens closing mechanism just won't work.
Hello:)
I bought such a camera inexpensively, but with a note LED and that I am interested in cameras and optics, I think I can repair it, looking at your film, which is amazing !!!. My camera has a broken - blocked movie transport, the shutter does not respond to trigger and the electronics respond to the power supply.
A red LED lights up in the viewfinder. Maybe you have some advice before I break it into pieces? Greetings :)))
Sometimes after I take a shot, the rewind lever doesn't work. After a couple of attempts it then sometimes catches on and I can rewind. Is that a serious issue or easy to repair?
Formidable fix.
Well maybe... but not so bad one step at a time.
onek joss
good
Hello I need some help! My Minolta XG 1 is not working the shutter curtain is stuck half way I’ve watch all of your other videos on how to fix it but nothing is working. Do you have an email? The nearest camera store is 4hrs from me so any suggestions would be helpful.
If you are interested in getting your camera repaired - phototronic.biz/service
I have blocked the lens (it is a rollei B35) how can i do to unblock it?
Good god….I’m pretty handy. I’ve repaired mechanics watches but I know when I’m beat. I’m just not familiar enough with the camera mechanism and I know that a dreaded screw may go flying across my office.
Nope, I’ll pay. I see it now, the money will be well spent.
I just came here to help me sleep. It's like listening to white Morgan Freeman smoking cigar, drinking sweet tea, telling me a bedtime story.
Good stuff. Glad you able to wake up and make another comment. Too much fun.
My film advance is acting weird/randomly not advancing completely/ the advance lever not returning to its original position
Hey, I just did this repair and had the same issue. There are two gears on the top of the camera beneath the top cover. With the camera facing forward, the larger one on the left is the one where the advance lever affixes to. The one on the right is held down with a screw. It is what controls both the tension of the advance lever (its ability to snap back to its original position) and the cocking of the shutter (under normal conditions, when you advance the lever directly after firing the shutter, you will hear a click and then a stop in movement. When the advance lever returns to its position, two more clicks can be heard).
You need to increase the tension on the spring that sits underneath the gear to the right. Take off the top plate of the camera and then add the advance lever directly back on the gear to the left so that you can manipulate it. With the lever attached, remove both the lever and the gear together. Before moving to the gear on the right that has the spring beneath it, take a look at the little protruding piece of metal beneath the spot where the gear and lever sat. You'll need to make sure that the gear sits on that piece of metal properly. If the gear is sitting wrong, that little piece of metal hits against protrusions underneath the gear. So first, look at the shapes beneath that gear and how they relate to the little protruding metal piece on the body of the camera. The gear will need to be able to rotate ~210 degrees or so before it hits the stopping point, which are those little protruding metal pieces. Sorry, I don't know what else to call them.
Moving on to the gear on the right, you will need to increase the tension on the spring beneath the gear. Remove the screw holding it in place, and, with the gear and advance lever on the left still removed, lift the gear on the right slightly. Don't take it out yet, just lift it so it disengages with the pieces beneath it. The gear rotates counter-clockwise to increase tension, and you might be able to see the spring beneath -- it has a small arm (on the bottom of the spring) that hooks against the body of the camera at ~11oclock. The other end of the spring hooks on a little lip of plastic that juts out from underside of the gear. So, lifting the gear slightly, turn it counter-clockwise. Try to look for the little arm hooking against the camera body. Note whether it is increasing tension or not. If it is not, watch the spring. Does it look loose? Does it look like the radius of the spring is getting larger as you turn the gear? Chances are, the spring isn't hooking to the little piece of plastic that juts out of the underside of the gear.
Go ahead and take the gear out. Look at it for a bit, and understand how the top of the spring can hook on that little piece of plastic on the underside of the gear. Use your fingers or tweezers to hook it around yourself. Don't try to mess with its shape or anything, jut hook it, than spin the gear a little in your fingers and let the little arm (the bottom hook of the spring) catch against your finger. Feel the tension you've created. Then, try to place the gear back in the camera, not all the way down so that it engages with the other gears, but slightly lifted, and try to get the bottom arm of the spring to hook against the spot on the body around 11oclock. Turn it counter-clockwise like you did before, slightly lifted so it is not trying to cock the shutter (you'll hear clicking if it is doing that) and watch and feel if it is causing tension. Tension it a little bit, and if you think you've got the spring arms in the right spot, press the gear all the way down. Hold it down with your finger.
Next, turn the gear counter-clockwise. We want to cock the shutter now. Turn it and listen to the clicking. You will need to hold the gear in place with your fingers -- it's going to be a little difficult to turn because the tension and that's okay. When you hear a louder click and notice the gear will not move anymore, that is the point where that advance lever is supposed to snap back to its original position. Holding the right gear in place with you finger so that it doesn't snap back, place the left gear with the advance lever attached back on as if you have just advanced the film but have not let the lever return to the original position against the body. In other words, place the advance lever and gear such that the advance lever is pointing forward and very slightly to the left. Look at the advance lever -- its almost shaped like a 30-60-90 right triangle, except with a rounded bottom. Look up a picture of a 30-60-90 triangle so you know what I'm saying -- but when the advance lever is fully advanced, the x-rad-3 side of it should not be perpendicular with the body, but should be pointed a little to the left. It should form ~80 angle with the body of the camera.
So, while the right gear has tension, right after it has clicked and ceased being able to move, place the left gear and advance lever as I described -- as if you've just cocked the lever and haven't let it release back to its original position. Then, carefully let pressure off the gear on the right. Let the advance lever move back to its original position as the tension of the gear on the right eases. The lever should end on the body of the camera, and there should be a little tension remaining in the spring. Fire the shutter.
Next, test it out. Hold down the gear on the right or place the screw back on to keep it in place. Advance the lever and listen for the click, and let it come back. Listen for the two clicks as it comes back. Fire the shutter each time. When it seems not bad, make sure to put the screw back on the right gear. Before putting the top plate back on, test it 100 times. You may need to adjust the tension on the gear on the right. If you do this, it may mess up the whole thing and you may need to do that whole process again, so bear that in mind. I spent a long time messing around with this piece of the camera.
Hope this helps, good luck!
Noooooo you installed the shutter blades backwards! The plate came off AFTER the blades but you put the blades back on first and then the cover plate :O
I have just reassembled my roller 35 using the video. I have also installed the blades and plate in the wrong order😱. Seems to work though. Should I correct it?
Do not put oil in the camera shutter blade such as this leaf shutter design.Because the spring load is very weak and the blades will stick together.I lost almost a year of preservations after i even fixed my grandfather's rangfinder rollei xf 35,for removing remained oil that keep emerging from nowhere due to my mistake.
thank you. I can not safely repair my rollie if ever/when ever it breaks down or has a hiccup in the future.
❤️🥰😏
I think you do the camera world a disservice. You take this camera apart, make it look very easy, and reassembling it looks doable. Do you realize how many innocent cameras will be disemboweled with no hope of recovery because you made it look possible for anyone? It's a shame. Those camera deaths...😫
Great video. Thank you.
Better that than the knowledge slowly being lost, which was surely happening until recently. Videos like this also give instruction and hope to those that absolutely *can* manage a repair of this kind given the care and the will. Think of all those saves.
Definitely not incoherent narration. It was informing and pretty fun actually. Laughed out loud at one point.
Thank you. Good to know that a FOC video can inspire a laugh out loud moment... even if it is not always intentional.
man the video is hiper nice like ever, but....the name of the camera is wrong. jijiji.
Oops. It was a hanging curve ball waiting to be poked in to left field (not feild). It seems Werkstatt für Feinmechanik und Optik, Franke & Heidecke (or Franke & Heidecke for short) did not know of the spelling memory rhyme…
I before E except after C,
Or when sounded as "a"
As in "neighbor" or "weigh."
And Rollei not Rollie. Albeit, at the height of confusion, so it goes, a forfeit must be made to the acknowledgment of weird and wonderful spellings…
possibly from an 1855 spelling textbook…
At the end of a word if you find silent e,
Then throw it away, -- for there it can't be
When an affix you add with a vowel commencing;
Thus "rogue" will make "roguish," and "fence" will make "fencing";
But if able or ous follow soft c or g,
Then, "change" you make "changeable", keeping the e.
Will not attest to its accuracy or authenticity, but catchy and memorable it ain't.
Thank you for your fun comment and pointing our the error.
Read
...and when you have everything completely reassembled take it all apart again because you left a fingerprint on the lens under the shutter blades. 😬🥴
Ugh or yikes or grrrr... all appropriate and maybe add some not so.
Seems like a pain working on the whole camera
By the way, would you be kind to help me loosen the part I mentioned about my Rolleiflex SL35 ? How could I send you a private message ? Thanks
My Olympus XA is having some issues with the focusing tab. Maybe you guys could help.
The focusing tab isn't running as smooth as it did. It has a remarkably high resistance in the focus range of 0.85 m to 1.5m , from 3 m to infinity something seems to get unstuck and the focusing tab starts running smooth again. Nonetheless if I want to focus under 3m the resistance comes back and makes my heart ache.
Any clues or tips are welcome!