May I add some important info your video. I learned this after doing several bodies. As mentioned at the end, do not overtighten the set screw. BUT, downward pressure must be applied to the crank lever (only the lever) while you twist the retaining ring back on. That downward pressure ensures that the crank lever makes proper contact with the washer which forces the counter to click only once when the film advance lever is cranked. If you do not apply pressure to the film advance lever while re-attaching the retaining ring, the counter will skip forward and fail to turn freely. After you hand tighten the ring with downward pressure (only on the lever) then barely snug the set screw. Explanation: When you have the top cover removed put the advance lever back on the post, loosely by itself and push down. You will feel it compress slightly. That is what you must force to happen for the counter to move freely.
Very clear and good info, but ,,, In the second half of the Sixties I bought a Mamiya CWP with a Sekor 1: 2 - 50mm. It made very sharp and great photoos. My second SLR would sure be the 1000 DTL. I had the CWP for about eight years, but the camera went downd every year from 1968 to1974. A never ending mirror blocking problem. I abandoned the Mamiya.
There are some tips and tricks left out of this but otherwise pretty good! Whew! just managed to get it done without breaking anything! Thanks for posting this!
Hi There! I tried following your video to get the ASA dial removed, but the screw doesn't seem to loosen up. have you dealt with something similar and how did you over come this?
Hi, I was referred here by David Hancock RE: "I have a (Mamiya) ZE-X that's been in storage for decades, and it seems to have the same shutter issue as in your video. It fired (once) after installing new batteries; but won't won't fire a second time. I can hear a *very* faint click when I (slowly) fully depress the button, but the shutter and mirror do not move. When I partially depress the button, I do get the info in the viewfinder and the timer is working, so the new batteries are good (they test at 1.5V). An ideas? Thanks!" Further Web search reveals spotty quality issues for this model and this particular shutter issue seems to be a somewhat common problem; possibly a capacitor issue(?) (No clue as to where it is.) In your opinion, is something like this this worth repairing? Otherwise, the camera is in great shape, and has the autowinder, the MS18R flash, and several lenses. Thanks!
I opened the top and cleaned the prism and viewfinder with the help of your video. It looks great now. However the meter seems to not work anymore. The meter seems to not be calibrated. I know the position of the Asa and shutter speed should be to reassemble but still off. The meter thinks it's too overexposed at the + reading. Do know if the meter can be calibrated with the chain tension?
It can be calibrated with the chain position as it wraps around the galvanometer and is then glued in place with Pliobond glue. The slot in the top of the galvanometer can also be moved slightly clockwise or counter-clockwise to make linear adjustments to the position of the needle.
Hi! This guide was really helpful! But I’m having trouble reseating the shutter speed dial on the mount. I’ve realized it’s just the clamps that connect it have closed. Is there any way to open them without accidentally snapping it?
It is brass and if you are careful you should be able to insert the tip of a flat screwdriver at the base of the slot and pry straight up so as not to put undo lateral force to the prongs.
The removal of the top cover of my camera went fine, but the little spring with the hook on the end that is on the frame counter that tensions it up so then it can reset when the back door opens came detached from wherever it was hooked on to and I can't find out where it was attached. Also, when I put the prism back in, it seemed to upset the little meter needle and it seems like it doesn't work anymore. Do you think you can help with these issues? Thanks.
Attach the counter spring to the under side of the counter dial wheel and to the post or bar located above the strap lug position. Check the prism seating to see that you have not caused a bind or drag on the needle movement.
Hello, I have a Mamiya / Sekor 500 tl and fixing it broke one lens viewfinder, and need to know the graduation for another one., you know that graduation is? havia two glasses, which I has broken me is the concave. Thanks!
Hi there. I have a mamiya 500tl where the meter battery wire has been pulled from the battery chamber. I have managed to find a non working 500tl for parts and am wondering how difficult it would be to replace the wires and contacts to the battery chamber. I noted in the previous comments that there would be a video to cover this but it has not been completed yet. Would you be able to describe the process for me. Thank you.
When the battery wire separates from the contact disc it is because corrosion has damaged the wire. To try to re-solder the wire can be an exercise in frustration. If the corrosion is not to bad liquid solder glue can also be used. This product is expensive, but if used properly, effective. astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B000Z9H7ZW You might also have to fashion a new contact disc from copper or brass plate or salvage contact material from another camera. If the wire is two far gone and you do not want to pull the mirror box to route a new wire, you can route the wire up under the front leatherette along the mirror box to housing joint gap. A word of caution - on this work around two access holes will need to be drilled after removal of the top cover and front leatherette. At some point in the future a FOC video that will demonstrate this procedure is planned for production.
I managed to salvage the contact from the second camera. I have threaded a wire through the casing between components and soldered to the previous wire pad. Everything seems to work fine now. However I have tested briefly with a 1.5 volt battery but I think this is too high and may cause incorrect exposures. I'm amazed the needle still moves after all this time. Would not have been able to do it without your videos so thank you !
The DTL and TL were designed to operated with a MS76 1.5 volt button battery. If the meter is off, the mechanical position of the needle can be adjusted by accessing the forked plate visible in the top center of the galvanometer. Turn the plate slightly clockwise or counter clockwise depending on the direction of the adjustment needed. Use care and small increments in making this adjustment. Only insert the tip of the tool used for moving the adjustment plate to avoid damaging the coil of the galvanometer.
Hi, I have the same problem with my DTL1000. The battery terminal wires has disconnected due to corrosion. I see the wires but don't know if I can solder them back to the battery terminal. I would love to see a video in doing this procedure and also rebuilding the battery contacts in the battery chamber. Thank you and hope you will consider doing this video.
The following is from a previous post, but it applies to your issue. And yes a FOC video covering this issue is planned. When the battery wire separates from the contact disc it is because corrosion has damaged the wire. To try to re-solder the wire can be an exercise in frustration. If the corrosion is not to bad liquid solder glue can also be used. This product is expensive, but if used properly, effective. astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B000Z9H7ZW You might also have to fashion a new contact disc from copper or brass plate or salvage contact material from another camera. If the wire is two far gone and you do not want to pull the mirror box to route a new wire, you can route the wire up under the front leatherette along the mirror box to housing joint gap. A word of caution - on this work around two access holes will need to be drilled after removal of the top cover and front leatherette.
+NauhFX An upcoming FOC video will feature one of the more common issues with the DTL / TL meter which is the separation of the battery wire from the battery contact due to battery corrosion. Thank your interest in Fix Old Cameras
as of yet...no. The video address the problem of a corroded battery contact and battery wire that cause the wire to separate from the contact. What the video will show is how to make a new battery contact and route a new battery wire. If the corrosion is not too bad you can sometimes reestablish contact with the separated battery wire by using liquid solder (a conductive glue).
+Fix Old Cameras I think the corrosion I'm dealing with is bad bad and in need of a replacement. Looking forward to the next video, you are incredibly helpful!
hi guys, i have this camera and I'm concerned that pictures aren't going on the film. This is my first film camera and I've watched a few videos but I'm not sure what to do. I wasted a roll of film on purpose to see if the picture would be on the film and it wasnt. does the picture only appear on the film once you get it processed? Any help would be great, thanks!
Open the back cover and hold the camera up to a strong light source and watch the shutter, you will see a flash of light if the shutter is opening as it should. Once you have confirmed the shutter is working, make sure you are loading the film correctly by leaving the back open and watching the film being pulled through the camera for a couple of strokes. You will lose the first couple of frames but at least you will be certain the film is loaded correctly. You can also back wind the rewind knob to remove the film slack in the film canister and see if the rewind knob turns as the film is wound.
Very good chance that one of the four mirror lift and release springs is broken. They are located on the advance side of the mirror box and require considerable disassembly of the camera to access. There is also a chance that the second shutter curtain tension is such that the curtain does not have enough tension to trip the mirror release mechanism. Check out the FOC video Mamiya DTL Uneven Exposure on adjusting the curtain tension on the Mamiya DTL. The procedure is almost identical to the MSX curtain tension adjustment.
A note about the plastic cover over the prism- that is there to prevent scratching from the retaining wire. I forgot to put the cover on before replacing the prism and ended up with a black scar visible in the viewfinder.
Well there is not a simple fix that comes to mind for this camera when jammed. However, a common enough failure on these cameras is for one of the four mirror lift springs to break.
May I add some important info your video. I learned this after doing several bodies. As mentioned at the end, do not overtighten the set screw. BUT, downward pressure must be applied to the crank lever (only the lever) while you twist the retaining ring back on. That downward pressure ensures that the crank lever makes proper contact with the washer which forces the counter to click only once when the film advance lever is cranked. If you do not apply pressure to the film advance lever while re-attaching the retaining ring, the counter will skip forward and fail to turn freely. After you hand tighten the ring with downward pressure (only on the lever) then barely snug the set screw.
Explanation: When you have the top cover removed put the advance lever back on the post, loosely by itself and push down. You will feel it compress slightly. That is what you must force to happen for the counter to move freely.
Nicely described. Thank you for your comments and interest in FOC.
Very clear and good info, but ,,,
In the second half of the Sixties I bought a Mamiya CWP with a Sekor 1: 2 - 50mm.
It made very sharp and great photoos. My second SLR would sure be the 1000 DTL.
I had the CWP for about eight years, but the camera went downd every year from
1968 to1974. A never ending mirror blocking problem. I abandoned the Mamiya.
There are some tips and tricks left out of this but otherwise pretty good! Whew! just managed to get it done without breaking anything! Thanks for posting this!
Good to hear of your successful repair. Any tips that you might share are welcome and thank you for your interest in FOC.
Hi There! I tried following your video to get the ASA dial removed, but the screw doesn't seem to loosen up. have you dealt with something similar and how did you over come this?
Hi, I was referred here by David Hancock RE: "I have a (Mamiya) ZE-X that's been in storage for decades, and it seems to have the same shutter issue as in your video. It fired (once) after installing new batteries; but won't won't fire a second time. I can hear a *very* faint click when I (slowly) fully depress the button, but the shutter and mirror do not move. When I partially depress the button, I do get the info in the viewfinder and the timer is working, so the new batteries are good (they test at 1.5V). An ideas? Thanks!"
Further Web search reveals spotty quality issues for this model and this particular shutter issue seems to be a somewhat common problem; possibly a capacitor issue(?) (No clue as to where it is.)
In your opinion, is something like this this worth repairing?
Otherwise, the camera is in great shape, and has the autowinder, the MS18R flash, and several lenses.
Thanks!
I opened the top and cleaned the prism and viewfinder with the help of your video. It looks great now. However the meter seems to not work anymore. The meter seems to not be calibrated. I know the position of the Asa and shutter speed should be to reassemble but still off. The meter thinks it's too overexposed at the + reading. Do know if the meter can be calibrated with the chain tension?
It can be calibrated with the chain position as it wraps around the galvanometer and is then glued in place with Pliobond glue. The slot in the top of the galvanometer can also be moved slightly clockwise or counter-clockwise to make linear adjustments to the position of the needle.
Any tips on getting the shutter speed dial back on? I have the tension set but can’t get the dial to snap back down flush.
It might be the slot in the top of the dial post is slightly pinched or you are not aligning the pieces properly. It can be a bit tricky.
Hi! This guide was really helpful! But I’m having trouble reseating the shutter speed dial on the mount. I’ve realized it’s just the clamps that connect it have closed. Is there any way to open them without accidentally snapping it?
It is brass and if you are careful you should be able to insert the tip of a flat screwdriver at the base of the slot and pry straight up so as not to put undo lateral force to the prongs.
The removal of the top cover of my camera went fine, but the little spring with the hook on the end that is on the frame counter that tensions it up so then it can reset when the back door opens came detached from wherever it was hooked on to and I can't find out where it was attached.
Also, when I put the prism back in, it seemed to upset the little meter needle and it seems like it doesn't work anymore. Do you think you can help with these issues? Thanks.
Attach the counter spring to the under side of the counter dial wheel and to the post or bar located above the strap lug position. Check the prism seating to see that you have not caused a bind or drag on the needle movement.
Thanks for the speedy reply!
Hello, I have a Mamiya / Sekor 500 tl and fixing it broke one lens viewfinder, and need to know the graduation for another one., you know that graduation is? havia two glasses, which I has broken me is the concave. Thanks!
Hi there. I have a mamiya 500tl where the meter battery wire has been pulled from the battery chamber. I have managed to find a non working 500tl for parts and am wondering how difficult it would be to replace the wires and contacts to the battery chamber. I noted in the previous comments that there would be a video to cover this but it has not been completed yet. Would you be able to describe the process for me. Thank you.
When the battery wire separates from the contact disc it is because corrosion has damaged the wire. To try to re-solder the wire can be an exercise in frustration. If the corrosion is not to bad liquid solder glue can also be used. This product is expensive, but if used properly, effective. astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B000Z9H7ZW You might also have to fashion a new contact disc from copper or brass plate or salvage contact material from another camera. If the wire is two far gone and you do not want to pull the mirror box to route a new wire, you can route the wire up under the front leatherette along the mirror box to housing joint gap. A word of caution - on this work around two access holes will need to be drilled after removal of the top cover and front leatherette. At some point in the future a FOC video that will demonstrate this procedure is planned for production.
I managed to salvage the contact from the second camera. I have threaded a wire through the casing between components and soldered to the previous wire pad. Everything seems to work fine now. However I have tested briefly with a 1.5 volt battery but I think this is too high and may cause incorrect exposures. I'm amazed the needle still moves after all this time. Would not have been able to do it without your videos so thank you !
The DTL and TL were designed to operated with a MS76 1.5 volt button battery. If the meter is off, the mechanical position of the needle can be adjusted by accessing the forked plate visible in the top center of the galvanometer. Turn the plate slightly clockwise or counter clockwise depending on the direction of the adjustment needed. Use care and small increments in making this adjustment. Only insert the tip of the tool used for moving the adjustment plate to avoid damaging the coil of the galvanometer.
Hi, I have the same problem with my DTL1000. The battery terminal wires has disconnected due to corrosion. I see the wires but don't know if I can solder them back to the battery terminal. I would love to see a video in doing this procedure and also rebuilding the battery contacts in the battery chamber. Thank you and hope you will consider doing this video.
The following is from a previous post, but it applies to your issue. And yes a FOC video covering this issue is planned.
When the battery wire separates from the contact disc it is because
corrosion has damaged the wire. To try to re-solder the wire can be an
exercise in frustration. If the corrosion is not to bad liquid solder
glue can also be used. This product is expensive, but if used properly,
effective. astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20/detail/B000Z9H7ZW
You might also have to fashion a new contact disc from copper or brass
plate or salvage contact material from another camera. If the wire is
two far gone and you do not want to pull the mirror box to route a new
wire, you can route the wire up under the front leatherette along the
mirror box to housing joint gap. A word of caution - on this work around
two access holes will need to be drilled after removal of the top cover
and front leatherette.
Hi!
Great video, would you have the opportunity to make a video on how to repair the light meter?
+NauhFX
An upcoming FOC video will feature one of the more common issues with the DTL / TL meter which is the separation of the battery wire from the battery contact due to battery corrosion. Thank your interest in Fix Old Cameras
was this video ever posted? In dire need of help!
as of yet...no. The video address the problem of a corroded battery contact and battery wire that cause the wire to separate from the contact. What the video will show is how to make a new battery contact and route a new battery wire. If the corrosion is not too bad you can sometimes reestablish contact with the separated battery wire by using liquid solder (a conductive glue).
+Fix Old Cameras I think the corrosion I'm dealing with is bad bad and in need of a replacement. Looking forward to the next video, you are incredibly helpful!
hi guys, i have this camera and I'm concerned that pictures aren't going on the film. This is my first film camera and I've watched a few videos but I'm not sure what to do. I wasted a roll of film on purpose to see if the picture would be on the film and it wasnt. does the picture only appear on the film once you get it processed? Any help would be great, thanks!
Open the back cover and hold the camera up to a strong light source and watch the shutter, you will see a flash of light if the shutter is opening as it should. Once you have confirmed the shutter is working, make sure you are loading the film correctly by leaving the back open and watching the film being pulled through the camera for a couple of strokes. You will lose the first couple of frames but at least you will be certain the film is loaded correctly. You can also back wind the rewind knob to remove the film slack in the film canister and see if the rewind knob turns as the film is wound.
Hi, guys! I have a MSX1000 which mirror stay locked up when film is advance and shutter cocked. Any idea what may be wrong?
Very good chance that one of the four mirror lift and release springs is
broken. They are located on the advance side of the mirror box and
require considerable disassembly of the camera to access. There is also a
chance that the second shutter curtain tension is such that the curtain
does not have enough tension to trip the mirror release mechanism.
Check out the FOC video Mamiya DTL Uneven Exposure on adjusting the
curtain tension on the Mamiya DTL. The procedure is almost identical to
the MSX curtain tension adjustment.
Thanks a lot for he data guys!
And greetings from the Montevideo Film Socity in Uruguay !
Much appreciated.
A note about the plastic cover over the prism- that is there to prevent scratching from the retaining wire. I forgot to put the cover on before replacing the prism and ended up with a black scar visible in the viewfinder.
Ouch. Hopefully your input will help others avoid such a scratch. Thanks for the comment.
how can i fix a stuck shutter release button on this camera
mine is stuck
Well there is not a simple fix that comes to mind for this camera when jammed. However, a common enough failure on these cameras is for one of the four mirror lift springs to break.
Awesome, Thanks!
Thank You Kindly!!
You are welcome.
Oh...I hate those wires.It looks too flexible while repairing.May be full-manual film camera is my favourite :).
m42
m42