I FOUND THE NEGATIVE ISSUE!!! I'VE UPLOADED THE ANSWER ON MY COMMUNITY AREA ON TH-cam IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED! Basically it was where my shutter failed and I placed my finger over the lens at that time to close the shutter. I has to go over the un cut footage to see what I was doing at that moment during that exposure. Thanks to all that have commented with suggestions and also direct messages of help! Here is a link to the moment where I took that photograph. th-cam.com/video/_j9r8dpDTEg/w-d-xo.html. Cheers, Roger.
Thank you for this and all you do, love the images and the time you take to produce a great video each time. I live in the land of the Orange Guy. I find taking images on film is so relaxing, again thank you for this...
Thanks for all you are doing. Really helping me as I build my own darkroom ! My Solida has given some mixed results, I am going to get stuck into servicing and see if it improves things :)
I know for color neg when you don't know the exact reciprocity failure the rule of thumb is to use the exponential 1.3. Not sure if that applies the same to b&w.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss calculate your shutter speed and if it's, say 2 seconds, pop 2^1.3 into your phone and it should get you there. That's what I've been told at least
While I have used Shanghai GP3 in the past with good results I have stopped using it because of the numerous negatives with the backing paper being printed on to the negative. Good video as always.
I guess you take your chances with these films. I reads that the film was taken over by a new crowd in recent years. My previous experience was with Lucky Film, which I think is the same stuff. It was curly tight. Had trouble getting it on the spall. But this one was very flat when I took it onto the spall.
I have had the same thing with having the backing paper "printing" onto the negative, but with different brands. I finally figured out that it has nothing to do with the film! It is caused by condensation building up inside the package because of a sudden change in temperature to the film. It is not a ton of condensation, but it causes the paper to imprint itself onto the film.
I can see the idea but very doubtful. it's not on the rebate. I,ve never see drag like that. I'm wondering if it was a fly possibly on the lens looking back.
Your camera looks like my Belda. I had the same issues with the shutter sticking and I put lighter fluid in all the moving parts. It’s back to perfection!!!
Any chance- the " Tasmanian devil " is the film wrinkled in the Jobo spiral - stuck together + air bubbles when developed slowly with no agitation ? Sorry my English is poor Peter
I own a Salida III as well. However, my camera has an inbuild rangefinder system. My images, done with HP5, look dull and flat. Only with Post-production done in the darkroom could the overall contrast and brightness be recovered.
YO ! Roger ! Wish I could bend down for Low Viewpoints as YOU do -- after 4 times being 'Cut Open' and my latest huge scar across my belly from June and my Stoma Bag I can't do it any more !
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks Roger -- get a bit Sad sometimes as I have heard nothing from Consultant about any Follow-Up Scans -----they forget This Old Soldier and deal with Younger Patients'
Prontor shutters were the cheaper option on many folding cameras I believe. Every one I have had has needed to be dismantled and soaked in a solvent for several days then thoroughly cleaned out to get it working again. Never use the self timer on these shutters.... Compur shutters appear to have been offered as an upgrade to the Prontor shutters on many folders and while I have only had two of these, they work well (one is 90 years old and in perfect condition), without knowing their history.
Thanks for sharing. I don't think I could dismantle mine without having bits left over! I don't often shoot it at these speeds, usually 1/100 and above are pretty snappy!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's not so difficult, but not something I would want to do often, to be fair - it's more a buyer beware thing, especially if buying off ebay. Many sellers cannot even open a folding camera never mind judge whether the shutter is working as intended.
I had nice results in the past with it William. I had a roll of Lucky Film once which I believe is the same film and that was real curly tight and had trouble loading it onto the reel.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I got some Lucky 220 film that specifically gave me trouble. Lots of leaking and sprocket holes, of all things. But when one avoids those production issues, I like the emulsion.
@@BillyHopscotch the backing paper on these films look sloppy though. But as long as it stops light. And there is a hole on the backing paper. I've never figured that idea out ha ha
I had tried the GP3 when I was in China, overall, the film in 120 format is well worth whereas the 135 version is terrible. In addtion, this film has cheap 4x5 version and they had released the ISO400 version not long ago. This film was made in a small company in Germany so the quality might not be as good as the big ones.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss 135 definitely not worth it. In China, shooters would preferto use Lekai B&W infrared film, which costs only 1-2 GBP per roll,but comes out relatively fine grain and high contrast images. This brand also has cheap 4x5 and 8x10 films.
Hey, have you seen the TH-camr Attic Darkroom? They're small like only a few hundred subscribers; but it think you'd be interested in his work. I have no affiliation with him, just thought you'd might enjoy him. Maybe give him a shout out if you enjoy his work so he can grow? Awesome results as always mate!
Check out photrio.com for Shanghai film testing which includes a post by a guy called Andrew O'Neil showing a reciprocity chart Which although in Chinese it's very easy to understand according to him. Enjoyed this one a lot, now the challenge for me to get up same time as you did, maybe!!!
I FOUND THE NEGATIVE ISSUE!!! I'VE UPLOADED THE ANSWER ON MY COMMUNITY AREA ON TH-cam IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED! Basically it was where my shutter failed and I placed my finger over the lens at that time to close the shutter. I has to go over the un cut footage to see what I was doing at that moment during that exposure. Thanks to all that have commented with suggestions and also direct messages of help! Here is a link to the moment where I took that photograph. th-cam.com/video/_j9r8dpDTEg/w-d-xo.html. Cheers, Roger.
Hats off to you Roger for making the effort to get up and out early. It’s always worth it once you’re up!! Hope Fred enjoyed it too.
It’s legendary... give him a medal
Thanks 👍
great job!!!!!! thanks for the inspiration! love sunrises, film, yoga, and stand dev!! you make it all sound so cool.
Really enjoy and appreciate your darkroom efforts and explanations.
Good call on the stand development. Nice results. Thanks for sharing and the mention. We need to have a whip-round for a replacement 6x6 !
Ahh, hi Dean! Thanks for the film!
Your videos are very entertaining! Thanks for the time you take to make them and for inspiring others to do some darkroom prints as well!
Thanks so much!
Beautiful photos, mate! And really inspiring to see the full analogue process.
Cheers Milo
Thank you for this and all you do, love the images and the time you take to produce a great video each time. I live in the land of the Orange Guy. I find taking images on film is so relaxing, again thank you for this...
Thanks Anthony
You should try with a 35mm adapter. The result is almost as wide as xpan
the second print is superb ! love it !
Yay, thank you!
Thanks for all you are doing. Really helping me as I build my own darkroom ! My Solida has given some mixed results, I am going to get stuck into servicing and see if it improves things :)
I guess these old cameras do give us trouble from time to time James. Nice to hear of your darkroom! Happy Printing!
I know for color neg when you don't know the exact reciprocity failure the rule of thumb is to use the exponential 1.3. Not sure if that applies the same to b&w.
I'm not sure what 1.3 math is John. Not my strong point in life.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss calculate your shutter speed and if it's, say 2 seconds, pop 2^1.3 into your phone and it should get you there. That's what I've been told at least
Loved this. You have some serious skill!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks Roger. Another nice video.
What about one on filters, for B and W of course. Unless you've made one already?
I do have one ages ago. May do another Duncan, thanks
As usual, really enjoyable content here... Love watching your darkroom process. Magic!
Thank you kindly!
While I have used Shanghai GP3 in the past with good results I have stopped using it because of the numerous negatives with the backing paper being printed on to the negative. Good video as always.
I guess you take your chances with these films. I reads that the film was taken over by a new crowd in recent years. My previous experience was with Lucky Film, which I think is the same stuff. It was curly tight. Had trouble getting it on the spall. But this one was very flat when I took it onto the spall.
I have had the same thing with having the backing paper "printing" onto the negative, but with different brands. I finally figured out that it has nothing to do with the film! It is caused by condensation building up inside the package because of a sudden change in temperature to the film. It is not a ton of condensation, but it causes the paper to imprint itself onto the film.
@@orion7741 That makes perfect sense as I did have some water leakage in my fridge where it was stored, thank you.
Given the stand development, I wonder if that odd mark is where a chunk of emulsion has come off and slid down the neg?
I can see the idea but very doubtful. it's not on the rebate. I,ve never see drag like that. I'm wondering if it was a fly possibly on the lens looking back.
Your camera looks like my Belda. I had the same issues with the shutter sticking and I put lighter fluid in all the moving parts. It’s back to perfection!!!
Lighter fluid works I've heard. Didn't it seep into your lens?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Ideally remove the elements first but it soon dries off and is quite likely to provide a miracle cure.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It possibly did get onto the lens, but it evaporates leaving no residue.
Any chance- the " Tasmanian devil " is the film wrinkled in the Jobo spiral - stuck together + air bubbles when developed slowly with no agitation ?
Sorry my English is poor
Peter
Thats a good possibility Peter.
I own a Salida III as well. However, my camera has an inbuild rangefinder system. My images, done with HP5, look dull and flat. Only with Post-production done in the darkroom could the overall contrast and brightness be recovered.
Try changing the way you shoot and develop the film to get more contrast. You'd have to experiment.
Great videos, awesome photos 👍👍👍
Impressive product shots of the Nettar! That had to take a a long time to put together.
A long day Ariston! It is a Franka Solida III Camera.
YO ! Roger ! Wish I could bend down for Low Viewpoints as YOU do -- after 4 times being 'Cut Open' and my latest huge scar across my belly from June and my Stoma Bag I can't do it any more !
But I can't play the Old Joanna Pete! Wishing you well as always mate. Great photos in the Gazette by the way!! Good on you.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks Roger -- get a bit Sad sometimes as I have heard nothing from Consultant about any Follow-Up Scans -----they forget This Old Soldier and deal with Younger Patients'
GP3 is included in the Reciprocity Timer app!
Thanks Eric.
Prontor shutters were the cheaper option on many folding cameras I believe. Every one I have had has needed to be dismantled and soaked in a solvent for several days then thoroughly cleaned out to get it working again. Never use the self timer on these shutters....
Compur shutters appear to have been offered as an upgrade to the Prontor shutters on many folders and while I have only had two of these, they work well (one is 90 years old and in perfect condition), without knowing their history.
Thanks for sharing. I don't think I could dismantle mine without having bits left over! I don't often shoot it at these speeds, usually 1/100 and above are pretty snappy!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss It's not so difficult, but not something I would want to do often, to be fair - it's more a buyer beware thing, especially if buying off ebay. Many sellers cannot even open a folding camera never mind judge whether the shutter is working as intended.
Very nice pictures. Stand dev makes the negative flatter?
From my experiences is slightly reduces contrast and appears to increase sharpness which is actually more noticeable fine grain.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss thanks :)
ROCKING DUDE ROCKING .............
Very nice pics, thanks for the episode! I wish you would have done similar shot on your RZ.
I shall now the winter is upon us and I can get down the beaches for sunrise.
Beautiful work!
Another great video. 😊
I've had bad luck with GP3 myself. But I love your results!
I had nice results in the past with it William. I had a roll of Lucky Film once which I believe is the same film and that was real curly tight and had trouble loading it onto the reel.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I got some Lucky 220 film that specifically gave me trouble. Lots of leaking and sprocket holes, of all things. But when one avoids those production issues, I like the emulsion.
@@BillyHopscotch the backing paper on these films look sloppy though. But as long as it stops light. And there is a hole on the backing paper. I've never figured that idea out ha ha
Very beautiful print, inspirational work! But remember, you can never trust the weather. It has no respect for the forcast :-)
8:30 Very local mini tornado?🤔
More like drop of water down the lens.
@@rrr324sds That explanation is nowhere near as fun :-)
Can I send you a mixtape of my own hip hop music?
Of course.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Let me know a way of contacting you.
@@gatorgoforth3097 email me roglowe147@gmail.com
No emergency pork pie? 🤔
Ran out! LOL
I had tried the GP3 when I was in China, overall, the film in 120 format is well worth whereas the 135 version is terrible. In addtion, this film has cheap 4x5 version and they had released the ISO400 version not long ago. This film was made in a small company in Germany so the quality might not be as good as the big ones.
Dean sent me a 135 version to try out. I have used the 120 before and had good results.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss 135 definitely not worth it. In China, shooters would preferto use Lekai B&W infrared film, which costs only 1-2 GBP per roll,but comes out relatively fine grain and high contrast images. This brand also has cheap 4x5 and 8x10 films.
Hey, have you seen the TH-camr Attic Darkroom? They're small like only a few hundred subscribers; but it think you'd be interested in his work. I have no affiliation with him, just thought you'd might enjoy him. Maybe give him a shout out if you enjoy his work so he can grow? Awesome results as always mate!
Check out photrio.com for Shanghai film testing which includes a post by a guy called Andrew O'Neil showing a reciprocity chart Which although in Chinese it's very easy to understand according to him. Enjoyed this one a lot, now the challenge for me to get up same time as you did, maybe!!!
Thanks for the info!
Ooooo Fk me! yessss!!! :-)
Well, don’t worry about getting sun ☀️ in your camera because you are using black n white numty tut tut
christ you're everywhere!
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss just like photographic baby Jesus 🙌😂
3rd
Hey you don't sound well you okay ?
unlessss its super early in the video :D
Speaking in a low tone not to wake family up. I'm fine :)
Stupid o clock 😂