You should give it a go, the effects aren't dramatic but worth trying. If you decide to experiment with a yellow filter, add a stop of light to compensate for the yellow filter, something I forgot to add in the video.
Yellow and orange filters are particularly useful when shooting vintage uncoated lenses. They tend to wash out and flair leading to low contrast photos. Filters add back that contrast and dampen flair. I shoot with vintage glass and always add a filter. Currently I am shooting with a 1909 2A (B) brownie box camera with an internal medium yellow filter. The camera was once owned by the Disney family and the results have stunned me to the point I was afraid critics would not believe they were taken with a camera 110+ years old! I use adapted Delta 400, 120 film.
Thank you for the tutorial. After 52 years going back to my roots - B&W Film and the darkroom. Can't wait to try my yellow, green and red filters. Like trying it again for the very first time yet exactly like going at it with an old friend. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for showing the examples with and without filters. Funny how a persons preferences can change over time. When I first started out making pictures of the natural world, some twenty years ago, I would have chosen the yellow filter - now I lean the other way and prefer the images made without the yellow filter.
FYI: #15 Deep Yellow [K3, Y3] Filter Factor 3X [1½-stop] This #15 filter is also known as Orange “G” filter by Hoya. This is a light yellow-orange filter, for use where more blue light needs to be absorbed. Darkens sky and blue water more than #8 Medium Yellow. Yellow filter effect on color bands of light with the output of the Yellow 8 filter matches the biological sensitivity of our vision. That is why the Yellow 8 filter makes everything look natural with panchromatic film. From my Notes on Photography. Thanks for the visual differences and what a positive difference.
Personally, I use a yellow 8, red 25 and red 29 Heliopan filters for my b&w photography (typ 246). I also have Heliopan green, blue filters, just in case I may need a different look for something. Thanks for this really good video, it was a great listen and watch. Best wishes
Thank you so much. I have watched a lot of videos about filters but I think your pictures are so beautiful and help me so much more to understand what you can get with a filter.
Hi Dave. With my Lumix G9, these filters are in my camera. So I can simulate a color filter in the camera along with my black-and-white adjustments like contrast, sharpness, and more. Have you ever tried this with your digital camera and if so do you see a difference between the filter that you screw in front of the lens and the filter that I set on the camera. Another very nice video from the "old box". I don't really see what you say about more work. Now that I've started working digitally everything is going much faster and especially everything is becoming more and more. Just a click from this angle, now another from another angle. But when I worked with film, I really looked for the right position and composition before I pressed the shutter button. To be honest, that's how I still work in digital. It seems that people no longer have time to look at something beautiful. But that is of course my personal opinion. I have all the time in the world and so I use it to take a picture. Antoine.
Yes, usually have my digital camera set to monochrome and the internal yellow filter as my default setting, I don’t apply anything else such as contrast but may set a very small amount of sharpness, I’d rather control contrast where it’s needed in the image, I don’t always apply contrast globally, so I’d rather do the processing where I have more control on my computer. When I say I think using film is more work, I’m probably referring to having to develop and scan then edit the image, a lot more steps than I would have to make when using a digital camera. I don’t work a lot differently with film or digital when making the image, it’s the steps after that makes more work for me. I do find that after I develop and scan my film the editing itself is a little more straightforward but there are just more steps in the process compared to digital. I don’t think the internal filters, at least on my Nikon d810, are quite like what I would get with a color filter used on a film camera but it does seem to have enough effect to make it worth using, because I set my camera to RAW+Jpeg I have many options when it comes to the edits, for me the jpeg is more for visualization but at times it’s close enough that I just go ahead and use the jpeg file. Hopefully I’ve answered what you are asking, take care Antoine
Well, I’m not sure I can call what I’m doing at this point a real job, to do that I’d have to make money :) but I do enjoy trying to make photos and sharing what I come up with. Have a great day!
Thank you it’s about time I found a video where they’re actually talking about film and not digital blah blah very helpful video on the yellow filters I really like the forest trees the yellow filter made a huge amount of difference there
A really interesting video David. I’ve never considered using colour filters myself, but they do give a nice subtle effect and so perhaps I should give them a try. Thanks for sharing the video
Thanks Darren, I think after giving this yellow filter a try it has made me think I will have to make a little more room in my bag for those times I want to darken the blue light in the scene. It also makes me wonder if another color filter is worth exploring, maybe green or red, Lol it never stops :)
Great video. Thank you. I have a question about filters. I shoot a Canon 7d DSLR, with a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8. I was wondering if there's a filter color that would help make wildlife stand out more when they are under the canopy in shaded areas. (like red, purple, or yellow).? I don't mind if it's b&w or color on the finished picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry I don’t think there is a color filter that would do what you wanting on a digital camera, whatever color cast you introduced to your image would have to be corrected to get the right color balance, so you would be undoing what you did by introducing a color cast. You might have better results decreasing the cool tones in the shadow and increasing it warm tones when processing the file to make the subject standout more. I’m definitely not an expert on the subject but see no advantage to adding a color cast to your file. On black and white film using something like a yellow filter should make an animal like a deer stand out a bit more but I don’t see that working on a digital sensor. Sorry, I wish I could be more help on the subject.
@6:26 you say it is disconcerting to view the image through the yellow filter. To avoid this problem, I prefer to put my yellow, orange, or red filters on rangefinder cameras instead of through-the-lens viewing cameras.
Learned something, what seems to me is that the yellow filter doesn't separate out low light values (magenta and cyan filtered out?) when there is an 'overall' dark cast. Seems to work best when there is a zoneV and higher values overall. Neat experiment.
Thanks Clay, I may have failed to say how I was metering the shots. For these shots I metered with a handheld meter and shot them all the same with no exposure compensation, I tend to over expose a bit anyway so I new I would be covered. I couldn't find any good info online on how to meter with a yellow filter so before I started shooting I put the filter on a camera with a built-in light meter and found that I was getting a different reading depending on what I was pointing the camera at, some scenes didn't change the reading at all and some I lost about a half stop of light. I think it depends on how much blue light is in the scene on how it effects the exposure. I have since been using a newer Pentax 645n that has a better built-in meter so I now just meter through the filter and go with that reading, that seems to be working well. If you are unsure about the exposure, with negative film it is always best to error on the side of over exposure. Looking back, I wish I would have addressed that in the video, maybe I will talk about that some on a future video. Thanks for checking out the video and taking the time to leave a comment.
@@DavidPattonPhotography thanks so much for that info and discussion! When I shoot 35mm I meter through the filter on both my Nikon N90S and Olympus 35RC so I never worried about compensating for filters. Then I recently got a Mamiya RB67 and tried adding one stop to compensate for the yellow 8 filter and the shots came out overexposed. That was also a roll of Tmax 100 and I metered it at 50 with that same Minolta Autometer IV. Next time I'll just meter for 100 and not add the stop. That's a really interesting point about the amount of blue light in the scene affecting the exposure, something to think about on the next shoot!
You might want to take one of your 35mm cameras outside and meter a few scenes, some with a lot of sky and some without, meter without the filter then put the filter on and point the camera to the same spot and see if the meter reading changes, that should give you a good idea on what kind of adjustments you will need to make. I tend to shoot Tmax100 at box speed, then when I meter I add about a half stop more light. Everyone has their own way and if its working then thats all that matters, development can also play a big part in how dense your negatives turn out as well.
Hmm, what you call a subtle difference this 85 YO darkroom denizen calls a smack in the face. The yellow filter adds pop and edge sharpness to landscapes that the plain shots don't have. You can try the yellow/green if you want a more subtle change (why you would want less escapes me, but hey). I find the y/g do do pleasing things for skin tones on people - and maybe even sheep. As far as the yellow making the shadows on your waterfall lose detail, you under exposed the shadows by a half stop with the filter on. Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights (try 30-60 seconds less developing time with the D76 for that. And consider Xtol. Keep on snapping.
Hello Denny, when I say subtle, I’m not saying I can’t see a difference and a good one at that, what I’m mean by subtle, is the image hasn’t changed as dramatically as it would have if I was using a red filter, I like the tonality that the yellow filter brings with it, I’m probably not communicating clearly, (no surprise there) I don’t want more subtle than the yellow filter. 😆 Also, I think you are correct about being a half stop under in a couple shots, sometimes I forget to factor in exposure compensation when using a color filter, a senior moment for sure. Something that probably doesn’t come across in a lot of my videos is my experience level with film photography, I don’t talk a lot about what I’ve done in photography over the years because mostly, I don’t want to sound like I think I know it all, well that because I don’t. :) while at the time of making this video (a pretty old video) I hadn’t had a lot of experience with filters in BW photography, that shouldn’t be confused with lacking experience in BW photography. When I started my 25year photography career in journalism as a press photographer, I was working exclusively with 35mm black and white film, so I’ve developed, and printed in the darkroom thousands of images. We just never had the time to use filters much when covering our assignments, plus I didn’t want to lose the light that the filter takes. When I started, it was all darkroom and then I was there when the publishing process was transitioning to a digital printing and adding color to the publications, scanning the color film, then to an all digital work flow, I’ve earn this grey hair. 😂 And while I’m educated with exposure and film development and have tested a lot different ways to approach making a photographic print, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience, there is always something more to learn. Have a great day!
Hi David. As far as under exposure of the shadows, I feel that the response of the silver grains to incoming photons is not linear between light and dark areas. In the dark areas where the photons are sparse and more widely separated it takes a more photon impacts to flip (sensitize) a grain than it does in the highlight areas where the sensitized grains are jammed together and ejected electrons are more dense and banging off other grains. The bad part of that is by increasing exposure to bring the shadows up to zone 2 or so, we get too much density in the highlights. So we have to resort to decreased development to keep from blowing out the highlights. Nice chatting with you. Have you tried the yellow/green filter?
You said, "more information to work with." That being the case, why are you not using large format? Anyway, with the much larger negative, those shadows that loose definition, you can simply retouch for as much definition as you desire--it is very easy to do, and you can always redo parts of your retouching if you wish (you add your ink/pencil/whatever to the tooth side of the film--not the emulsion). 4x5 is kind of small for this, 5x7 is much better, but still a titch small. Whole plate (6.5x8.5) or larger is perfect. Because the negative is larger you can also intensify (usually with selenium) local areas to increase contrast, pretty much as what you do with a filter. You can do a bit of the same by locally or in whole applying Potassium Ferricyanide to your prints, but the process is far more controlled using the negative instead.
That’s an old video, I’ve been using a 4x5 camera for more than a year now, :) that being said, it’s true a 4x5 neg is very workable, but there are times large format isn’t best for the shot, there are times that smaller formats just do a better job, so I try to use the best tool I have for the job. Quite a few years ago I shot a lot of 4x5 transparency sheet film, this time around I’m using the format for some of my black and white images.
the trees in the forest were substantially improved IMO with the yellow filter. The contrast of the tree bark was more defined to a pleasant degree. I'd have tried a polarizer on the waterfall shot. (off-topic for this particular video) personally, I am considering the yellow filter as a default, though I realize the loss in stops is a minor factor to consider.
Normally I would consider a polarizer as well for the water fall shot, although I’ve found I use considerably less polarizer in black and white than I do in color photography, I tend to dial it back to retain some of the reflections, to me, a polarizing filter can remover a lot of the sparkle and life of an image if used to full effect but everyone has their own preferences in what they like in a photo. I also feel when I need a yellow filter, the stop of light loss isn’t usually to much of a concern, but there are times it can be a minor issue when I’m shooting at ISO 50 to start with :)
Any guess as to how many stops the blue channel is darkened by this filter? I'm considering getting one, not for landscapes but for an experiment. I want something that lets red and green pass through unaffected, while bringing the blue down to around 1/4 to 1/16.
The effect is parity subtle Tom, in fact I didn’t even adjust my exposure the first time I used it, I think most recommend a 1 stop exposure increase, my images came out good so it may be 1/4 to 1/2 stop but I couldn’t say for sure, wish I could be more help.
I used to always shoot with a stronger yellow filter than you used to get a darker sky without the hard look of using a red filter. It was especially Good with Technical Pan film. Like the channel 🙂
I think that’s a great way to go Andrew, I think the yellow filter I’m using is pretty subtle and at times I’ve wished it was a tad bit stronger so in the future I will probably go that route as well.
Hi Enri, The filter I’m using is the Tiffen #8 yellow filter which has a factor of 2, it looks like the Hoya k2 also has a factor of 2 or 1stop exposure compensation, as far as quality differences, that I couldn’t tell you, if I remember right the Tiffen was pretty affordable but I have no complaints on the image qualities so far.
I’m not sure what you mean by outside the box Andrew? Some people might take this comment as an insult, this is an older video and I was interested in seeing if a yellow filter would be worth using in my BW photography, I do use it but I wouldn’t consider using filters thinking outside the box, it’s just another look. You know, I’ve successfully completed thousands of photography assignments with thousands of photos published and know one has ever told me I need to think outside the box until today. :) I’m sorry, but for some reason your comment just rubbed me the wrong way. Have a good day.
Thanks that was interesting , will have to give it a go
You should give it a go, the effects aren't dramatic but worth trying. If you decide to experiment with a yellow filter, add a stop of light to compensate for the yellow filter, something I forgot to add in the video.
Yellow and orange filters are particularly useful when shooting vintage uncoated lenses. They tend to wash out and flair leading to low contrast photos. Filters add back that contrast and dampen flair. I shoot with vintage glass and always add a filter. Currently I am shooting with a 1909 2A (B) brownie box camera with an internal medium yellow filter. The camera was once owned by the Disney family and the results have stunned me to the point I was afraid critics would not believe they were taken with a camera 110+ years old! I use adapted Delta 400, 120 film.
Thanks for the excellent tip on using non coated lenses and I love what you are doing with a 110+ year old camera!
Thank you for the tutorial. After 52 years going back to my roots - B&W Film and the darkroom. Can't wait to try my yellow, green and red filters. Like trying it again for the very first time yet exactly like going at it with an old friend. Thank you for sharing.
I hope your reconnection with the film photography process brings you much joy Robert!
Just the YT clip I was looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for showing the examples with and without filters. Funny how a persons preferences can change over time. When I first started out making pictures of the natural world, some twenty years ago, I would have chosen the yellow filter - now I lean the other way and prefer the images made without the yellow filter.
FYI: #15 Deep Yellow [K3, Y3] Filter Factor 3X [1½-stop]
This #15 filter is also known as Orange “G” filter by Hoya. This is a light yellow-orange filter, for use where more blue light needs to be absorbed. Darkens sky and blue water more than #8 Medium Yellow. Yellow filter effect on color bands of light with the output of the Yellow 8 filter matches the biological sensitivity of our vision. That is why the Yellow 8 filter makes everything look natural with panchromatic film. From my Notes on Photography. Thanks for the visual differences and what a positive difference.
Thanks for the info Dashan.
Thanks a lot for this video! It really was super helpful and made me understand the yellow filter better than any article ever could!
Personally, I use a yellow 8, red 25 and red 29 Heliopan filters for my b&w photography (typ 246). I also have Heliopan green, blue filters, just in case I may need a different look for something. Thanks for this really good video, it was a great listen and watch. Best wishes
Thank you so much. I have watched a lot of videos about filters but I think your pictures are so beautiful and help me so much more to understand what you can get with a filter.
Thanks Anne, it's great to hear you found something of use from one of my videos.
I'm old skool n I still use a yellow or green filter
Very good talk and photo comparision of the black and white photo with and without the yellow filter which makes a great deal of a difference.
I really like the tones I get for color photograph with a yellow filter.
Very nice images.
Nice video, very helpful.🌿👍
Hi Dave.
With my Lumix G9, these filters are in my camera.
So I can simulate a color filter in the camera along with my black-and-white adjustments like contrast, sharpness, and more.
Have you ever tried this with your digital camera and if so do you see a difference between the filter that you screw in front of the lens and the filter that I set on the camera.
Another very nice video from the "old box".
I don't really see what you say about more work.
Now that I've started working digitally everything is going much faster and especially everything is becoming more and more.
Just a click from this angle, now another from another angle.
But when I worked with film, I really looked for the right position and composition before I pressed the shutter button.
To be honest, that's how I still work in digital.
It seems that people no longer have time to look at something beautiful.
But that is of course my personal opinion.
I have all the time in the world and so I use it to take a picture.
Antoine.
Yes, usually have my digital camera set to monochrome and the internal yellow filter as my default setting, I don’t apply anything else such as contrast but may set a very small amount of sharpness, I’d rather control contrast where it’s needed in the image, I don’t always apply contrast globally, so I’d rather do the processing where I have more control on my computer.
When I say I think using film is more work, I’m probably referring to having to develop and scan then edit the image, a lot more steps than I would have to make when using a digital camera. I don’t work a lot differently with film or digital when making the image, it’s the steps after that makes more work for me. I do find that after I develop and scan my film the editing itself is a little more straightforward but there are just more steps in the process compared to digital.
I don’t think the internal filters, at least on my Nikon d810, are quite like what I would get with a color filter used on a film camera but it does seem to have enough effect to make it worth using, because I set my camera to RAW+Jpeg I have many options when it comes to the edits, for me the jpeg is more for visualization but at times it’s close enough that I just go ahead and use the jpeg file. Hopefully I’ve answered what you are asking, take care Antoine
@@DavidPattonPhotography I am gonna try this out. I think it is a very good tip for the work I like to make.
❤️ I think you have the best job in the world you roam in inserting places and take photo and you enjoy your self ❤️ LOVE❤️
Well, I’m not sure I can call what I’m doing at this point a real job, to do that I’d have to make money :) but I do enjoy trying to make photos and sharing what I come up with. Have a great day!
Great video
Like the yellow filter. I have one ordered for my 6x7. Have you gone further and tried the red?
Nice work ! I have to try a yellow filter :)
Thank you it’s about time I found a video where they’re actually talking about film and not digital blah blah very helpful video on the yellow filters I really like the forest trees the yellow filter made a huge amount of difference there
Thanks for stopping by the channel Paul, It’s great to hear you found something useful in one of my videos.
A really interesting video David.
I’ve never considered using colour filters myself, but they do give a nice subtle effect and so perhaps I should give them a try.
Thanks for sharing the video
Thanks Darren, I think after giving this yellow filter a try it has made me think I will have to make a little more room in my bag for those times I want to darken the blue light in the scene. It also makes me wonder if another color filter is worth exploring, maybe green or red, Lol it never stops :)
Great video. Must use similar filter more. Thank You for inspiration.
Thanks Aleksander!
Yes, great💯💯💯📽📽📽📸📸📸
Excellent content! You've earned a new subscriber!
Thanks Mark, I look forward to hearing more from you in the comments in the future.
do you compensate for the filter in your light meter
Thank you for this very helpful video!
Great video. Thank you.
I have a question about filters. I shoot a Canon 7d DSLR, with a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8. I was wondering if there's a filter color that would help make wildlife stand out more when they are under the canopy in shaded areas. (like red, purple, or yellow).?
I don't mind if it's b&w or color on the finished picture.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry I don’t think there is a color filter that would do what you wanting on a digital camera, whatever color cast you introduced to your image would have to be corrected to get the right color balance, so you would be undoing what you did by introducing a color cast. You might have better results decreasing the cool tones in the shadow and increasing it warm tones when processing the file to make the subject standout more. I’m definitely not an expert on the subject but see no advantage to adding a color cast to your file. On black and white film using something like a yellow filter should make an animal like a deer stand out a bit more but I don’t see that working on a digital sensor. Sorry, I wish I could be more help on the subject.
@RTE-NaturePhotography
That helps me and saves time and money. Thank you sir.
@6:26 you say it is disconcerting to view the image through the yellow filter. To avoid this problem, I prefer to put my yellow, orange, or red filters on rangefinder cameras instead of through-the-lens viewing cameras.
Nice lesson. Thank-you.
Learned something, what seems to me is that the yellow filter doesn't separate out low light values (magenta and cyan filtered out?) when there is an 'overall' dark cast. Seems to work best when there is a zoneV and higher values overall. Neat experiment.
Great video, loved seeing the differences. Sorry if I missed it but did you meter the same with and without the filter?
Thanks Clay, I may have failed to say how I was metering the shots. For these shots I metered with a handheld meter and shot them all the same with no exposure compensation, I tend to over expose a bit anyway so I new I would be covered. I couldn't find any good info online on how to meter with a yellow filter so before I started shooting I put the filter on a camera with a built-in light meter and found that I was getting a different reading depending on what I was pointing the camera at, some scenes didn't change the reading at all and some I lost about a half stop of light. I think it depends on how much blue light is in the scene on how it effects the exposure. I have since been using a newer Pentax 645n that has a better built-in meter so I now just meter through the filter and go with that reading, that seems to be working well. If you are unsure about the exposure, with negative film it is always best to error on the side of over exposure. Looking back, I wish I would have addressed that in the video, maybe I will talk about that some on a future video. Thanks for checking out the video and taking the time to leave a comment.
@@DavidPattonPhotography thanks so much for that info and discussion! When I shoot 35mm I meter through the filter on both my Nikon N90S and Olympus 35RC so I never worried about compensating for filters. Then I recently got a Mamiya RB67 and tried adding one stop to compensate for the yellow 8 filter and the shots came out overexposed. That was also a roll of Tmax 100 and I metered it at 50 with that same Minolta Autometer IV. Next time I'll just meter for 100 and not add the stop. That's a really interesting point about the amount of blue light in the scene affecting the exposure, something to think about on the next shoot!
You might want to take one of your 35mm cameras outside and meter a few scenes, some with a lot of sky and some without, meter without the filter then put the filter on and point the camera to the same spot and see if the meter reading changes, that should give you a good idea on what kind of adjustments you will need to make. I tend to shoot Tmax100 at box speed, then when I meter I add about a half stop more light. Everyone has their own way and if its working then thats all that matters, development can also play a big part in how dense your negatives turn out as well.
Very nice video. like the yellow filter...
Thank you so much Jerry!
Hmm, what you call a subtle difference this 85 YO darkroom denizen calls a smack in the face. The yellow filter adds pop and edge sharpness to landscapes that the plain shots don't have. You can try the yellow/green if you want a more subtle change (why you would want less escapes me, but hey). I find the y/g do do pleasing things for skin tones on people - and maybe even sheep. As far as the yellow making the shadows on your waterfall lose detail, you under exposed the shadows by a half stop with the filter on. Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights (try 30-60 seconds less developing time with the D76 for that. And consider Xtol. Keep on snapping.
Hello Denny, when I say subtle, I’m not saying I can’t see a difference and a good one at that, what I’m mean by subtle, is the image hasn’t changed as dramatically as it would have if I was using a red filter, I like the tonality that the yellow filter brings with it, I’m probably not communicating clearly, (no surprise there) I don’t want more subtle than the yellow filter. 😆 Also, I think you are correct about being a half stop under in a couple shots, sometimes I forget to factor in exposure compensation when using a color filter, a senior moment for sure.
Something that probably doesn’t come across in a lot of my videos is my experience level with film photography, I don’t talk a lot about what I’ve done in photography over the years because mostly, I don’t want to sound like I think I know it all, well that because I don’t. :) while at the time of making this video (a pretty old video) I hadn’t had a lot of experience with filters in BW photography, that shouldn’t be confused with lacking experience in BW photography. When I started my 25year photography career in journalism as a press photographer, I was working exclusively with 35mm black and white film, so I’ve developed, and printed in the darkroom thousands of images. We just never had the time to use filters much when covering our assignments, plus I didn’t want to lose the light that the filter takes. When I started, it was all darkroom and then I was there when the publishing process was transitioning to a digital printing and adding color to the publications, scanning the color film, then to an all digital work flow, I’ve earn this grey hair. 😂
And while I’m educated with exposure and film development and have tested a lot different ways to approach making a photographic print, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience, there is always something more to learn. Have a great day!
Hi David. As far as under exposure of the shadows, I feel that the response of the silver grains to incoming photons is not linear between light and dark areas. In the dark areas where the photons are sparse and more widely separated it takes a more photon impacts to flip (sensitize) a grain than it does in the highlight areas where the sensitized grains are jammed together and ejected electrons are more dense and banging off other grains. The bad part of that is by increasing exposure to bring the shadows up to zone 2 or so, we get too much density in the highlights. So we have to resort to decreased development to keep from blowing out the highlights.
Nice chatting with you. Have you tried the yellow/green filter?
You said, "more information to work with." That being the case, why are you not using large format? Anyway, with the much larger negative, those shadows that loose definition, you can simply retouch for as much definition as you desire--it is very easy to do, and you can always redo parts of your retouching if you wish (you add your ink/pencil/whatever to the tooth side of the film--not the emulsion). 4x5 is kind of small for this, 5x7 is much better, but still a titch small. Whole plate (6.5x8.5) or larger is perfect. Because the negative is larger you can also intensify (usually with selenium) local areas to increase contrast, pretty much as what you do with a filter. You can do a bit of the same by locally or in whole applying Potassium Ferricyanide to your prints, but the process is far more controlled using the negative instead.
That’s an old video, I’ve been using a 4x5 camera for more than a year now, :) that being said, it’s true a 4x5 neg is very workable, but there are times large format isn’t best for the shot, there are times that smaller formats just do a better job, so I try to use the best tool I have for the job. Quite a few years ago I shot a lot of 4x5 transparency sheet film, this time around I’m using the format for some of my black and white images.
well done
Thank you Frank!
the trees in the forest were substantially improved IMO with the yellow filter. The contrast of the tree bark was more defined to a pleasant degree.
I'd have tried a polarizer on the waterfall shot. (off-topic for this particular video)
personally, I am considering the yellow filter as a default, though I realize the loss in stops is a minor factor to consider.
Normally I would consider a polarizer as well for the water fall shot, although I’ve found I use considerably less polarizer in black and white than I do in color photography, I tend to dial it back to retain some of the reflections, to me, a polarizing filter can remover a lot of the sparkle and life of an image if used to full effect but everyone has their own preferences in what they like in a photo. I also feel when I need a yellow filter, the stop of light loss isn’t usually to much of a concern, but there are times it can be a minor issue when I’m shooting at ISO 50 to start with :)
Any guess as to how many stops the blue channel is darkened by this filter? I'm considering getting one, not for landscapes but for an experiment. I want something that lets red and green pass through unaffected, while bringing the blue down to around 1/4 to 1/16.
The effect is parity subtle Tom, in fact I didn’t even adjust my exposure the first time I used it, I think most recommend a 1 stop exposure increase, my images came out good so it may be 1/4 to 1/2 stop but I couldn’t say for sure, wish I could be more help.
I used to always shoot with a stronger yellow filter than you used to get a darker sky without the hard look of using a red filter. It was especially Good with Technical Pan film. Like the channel 🙂
I think that’s a great way to go Andrew, I think the yellow filter I’m using is pretty subtle and at times I’ve wished it was a tad bit stronger so in the future I will probably go that route as well.
The waterfall scene would probably have done better with a green filter.
Possibly, the green tones would probably end up lighter, might be an interesting look worth exploring.
Is that filter similar to the Hoya K2 version?
Hi Enri, The filter I’m using is the Tiffen #8 yellow filter which has a factor of 2, it looks like the Hoya k2 also has a factor of 2 or 1stop exposure compensation, as far as quality differences, that I couldn’t tell you, if I remember right the Tiffen was pretty affordable but I have no complaints on the image qualities so far.
@@DavidPattonPhotography awesome, thank you so much for the information. Great video by the way.
Some time you should think out side the box and try to shoot that way you have not shot be for you be shock in the outcome i know i was
I’m not sure what you mean by outside the box Andrew? Some people might take this comment as an insult, this is an older video and I was interested in seeing if a yellow filter would be worth using in my BW photography, I do use it but I wouldn’t consider using filters thinking outside the box, it’s just another look. You know, I’ve successfully completed thousands of photography assignments with thousands of photos published and know one has ever told me I need to think outside the box until today. :) I’m sorry, but for some reason your comment just rubbed me the wrong way. Have a good day.
Now try an Orange filter
I find skies too dark anyways even without any filters.