I use evaluative mode. I shoot with a Canon EOS R and the evaluative metering is linked to the focus point, or the exposure is weighted to the focus point selected.
as someone who photographs moving objects with intense light sources- I live and die by spot/center weighted with full manual + auto ISO. having full control lockdown of shutter speed and depth of field/sharpness is essential and with spot/center I can let auto iso just pick what it needs and I get amazingly consistent results day and night. kudos for an excellent explanation of metering modes!
Full manual and auto ISO contradict one another. Manual with auto ISO makes sense. It's how I usually shoot wildlife. But "full manual" means just that. No auto anything.
To be honest, I set the majority of my exposures using the camera's histogram and seldom ever pay attention to the actual *meter* setting ( not to be confused with the metering mode, I use matrix 98% of the time). This has worked out well for *_my_* style of shooting. One great thing about photography is that there are so many ways to arrive at the same place. Find one that works for you and shoot away. Nice explanations, Mark.
One caution being to have the shutter speed appropriate for either hand-held (e.g. 1/focal length of lens used*any sensor factor) or tripod, depending on what's in use.
So I don’t mean to be a jerk, but I am an anal engineer so here goes: That histogram that you’re using exists because of… The light meter…. It’s simply mirroring the whole image to create the histogram. Just out of curiosity, how do you adjust your histogram? Do you shoot in Manuel mode all the time or do you use the exposure compensation dial to adjusted?
@@SamCarleton I, like you, am a very inquisitive person. I do not pay attention to the *meter* in terms of whether the image is under/over or "correctly" exposed. The histogram gives me a better sense of the tonal value I am about to capture as opposed to whether the entire image will be darker or lighter than the camera thinks it should be. I shoot in manual mode 90% of the time, not because it's _the_ way to do it, but because it's how I learned way back in the film days when cameras and lenses were manual and it is second nature to me. I'll sometimes shoot in aperture priority with exposure compensation but not very often. To each his own, right?
@@slowlyrusting4044 I, too, come from the film days of shooting chrome and using a spot meter for correct exposure. So I am totally with you! My only point is that the only way to get your histogram is by the light meter reading the scene to create it. so... technically you are using the light meter, just not in a classical way :P
My favourite option would be the zebras if my camera had them (and especially if they were raw-based); sadly, it can only show them for video, not stills.
If you shoot outdoor portrait in a backlighted situation, when you get the perfect histogram the person may be really badly exposed and force you to edit the skin a lot, the histogram did not guess there was a person, it just balanced the exposure right for the massive light differences it found...
@@Zealor365When you shoot manual you use the -1 -0- +1 indicator to guide yourself, you are trusting the camera meeter, well guess what - when you use shutter or apperture priorities you can also trust your camera meetering, it does not measure subjects worse than when it is on manual, lol
Thanks for a great video. FYI, I use highlight metering when taking pictures of white birds, especially egrets. It is very easy for them to get blown out unless you compensate somehow.
Set spot metering > focus on subject > lock focus (back button focus) > move camera around to obtain the desired exposure for the subject > lock exposure by half press of shutter button > recompose and shoot
Was going to add just that point. Though I think with some cameras you have to tell it whether you want to back button (or half shutter press) lock both focus and exposure, or just focus. But yeah, I'd much rather do that than manually move my focus point around for every different composition.
Tried back button focus, then you give your camera to a person to take a photo of you and your wife and the focus doesn’t work and they don’t have a clue. Going back to half press and a back button for servo only and one for eye focus.
I finally get it! I’ve read many descriptions of the various metering modes and always come away confused about the differences. Seeing you demonstrate it in your camera’s Live View has taken all the mystery out of it. Thank you.
Just a small clarification. Matrix (or Evaluative as Canon calls it) is not just a simple averaging of the reading of the different segments of the matrix. To quote Nikon "The camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to tone distribution, color, composition, and distance for results close to those seen by the naked eye." In other words the camera applies a sophisticated algorithm to the readings in effect comparing it to similar lighting situations. This is not the same as full frame metering which simply measures the total amount of light reaching the frame. As such it is inherently prone to error and is now more or less obso0letealthough I think Sony still offer it as option on some models? It is true BTW that separate meters were a common feature of my early photographic career(starting in 1969!) but even by the early 1970s the vast majority of cameras had TTL or similar metering built in. I would say that getting to know how to use a hand held meter is a really good way of understanding light and exposure in many ways ( eg exposure equivalents etc) ands many would argue it's a great tool to understand the Zone System even if its practical necessity is long gone...
Exactly. "Evaluative" is very descriptive. The camera looks at a wide area and "evaluates". It is not center weighted averaging, which is a different mode altogether. Over the years evaluative or matrix metering has gotten better and better. In modern cameras, in all but the most complicated cases, it will generally get you very close to the proper exposure. In most cases you will need no more than one to two thirds of a stop of compensation one way or the other. Nowadays, we also have the histogram in the viewfinder (if we so choose). 98% of the time this allows for instant compensation (if needed) with one dial and a perfect exposure every time. Folks tend to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
Absolutely NOT obsolete. It's all still relevant. It's all still basically the same as it has always been, and it is important to know how exposure works. But with the histogram in the viewfinder, and exposure and depth of field simulated, it is easier than ever to get where you need to be. Exposure mode doesn't matter in the way it used to. You are still using the light meter, except now your feedback is the histogram and the viewfinder image, rather than matching needles. We have way more information than we ever have. Still vitally important to know what adjusting the shutter speed and (or opposed to) the aperture does to your image.
Ever since 2000 when I got my first digital camera with a histogram I’ve used it and the highlight clipping warning with center weighed metering. When doing portraits with ambient, ambient + flash or just flash I always start with black and white towels draped over the edges of the gray card I use as a WB reference and for setting custom WB. The reality of exposure is that digital sensors can’t reproduce scenes “normally” per the baseline of our adaptive vision. In the majority of scenes, especially those with faces in them, maintaining separation between “Zone 9 - brightest solid white in scene = 245-254” and “Zone 10 - 3D shaped defining clues on white objects = 255” with some loss of shadow detail and darker than normal midtones is the best single exposure, ambient only strategy and the easiest way achieve it regardless of camera metering mode used is to increase exposure until the Zone 9 white objects in the scene are 1/3 stop below clipping and a photo of a white towel will retain the texture visually and have a 0-255 8-bit eyedropper value of between 245 and 254, reserving 255 clipping for the specular highlights in the actual file captured (RAW or JPG). Since the RAW files have more exposure ‘headroom’ than the JPGs used in the camera for playback you’ll need to compare RAW reading with appearance of clipping on the whites to fine tune exposure for the highlights. The way deal with loss of shadow detail detail and noise for static scenes is to shoot on a tripod and first expose highlights 1/3 under clipping then slow shutter by three EV / stops to create a second shadow exposure. Rather than using automated HDR and winding up with a ‘Sea of Sameness” that looks unnatural I open the both files separately then copy/paste the entire shadow exposure as a second layer over the highlight exposure. I than add a black filled mask (hold down opt/alt when clicking mask icon) the SELECTIVELY open the mask to add in the shadow detail, more around the focal point(s) I want the viewer to find and dwell on, creating a tonal / detail “on ramp” to the focal point similar to how our brains get “tunnel vision” and “tune out” what the more sensitive rod cells in the periphery are detecting. It’s a bit more work but the result is more organic and natural than AI produced HDR. The key to overcoming sensor range limitations with flash illuminated foregrounds is to always use the sun as back rim light and start, regardless of camera metering mode, by keeping the parts of the white towel ‘kissed’ by the sun 1/3 below clipping at the aperture desired for DOF, with shutter at max sync speed or below. Exposing for the sunny highlights on the white towel that will also expose all the highlights in the background below clipping but underexpose the front of the subject. The next thing I always do is pose the face(s) towards the dominant direction of the northern sky, lifting the subject’s chin as need to get light past the brow and into the eyes unless going for a brooding detached vibe. The first flash I add is the FILL I keep centered over the camera on a Stroboframe Camera-Rotating bracket, raising its power until detail is seen in my BLACK TOWEL exposure target. This is the step 99% of photographers today don’t understand the need for. I do because back in 1970 when I shot my first portraits with a pair of shop lights I followed the instructions in a Kodak “How To Make Portraits” which explained the rationale for using centered, shadowless as possible (from POV of lens fill). With a digital sensor any shadows produced by the fill will be noise filled voids, which are easily avoided by keeping a FILL flash above the lens when shooting with flash. The final step is placing the KEY flash. It can go anywhere but if the goal is to SEAMLESSLY marry the flash with the ambient it needs to hit the face on the same vector as the natural light modeling the face. Since skylight comes from such a steep angle, forcing subject to look up, positioning the KEY flash ideally to match the lower contrast ambient pattern will require a 10-12ft light stand to match the 3D modeling vector of the skylight. Key Flash power needs to be set 2/3 EV below clipping (1/3 stop below sun-kissed non-clipping whites) to preserve the ‘ambience’ of the back rim sun lighting. The final step is to raise the POV of the camera so the sensor is parallel / / with front plane of the face looking up to get light in the eyes. That will foreshorten the body and make the ground around the subject the background in the photo. How much the body is foreshortened is controlled via shooting distance and elevation. Higher and further away is better for multi-row group photos because it puts all the faces closer together relative to the camera and gets great light on the faces. If fill is on bracket over camera it moves with the camera and isn’t something that needs any conscious thought once power level is dialed via the black towel. It might seem complicated but all new things do the first time. Once you seen the difference in the results you’ll better understand why it works and it will become second nature. I’ve been shooting with flash that way for over 50 years after learning the technique working for lighting Zen Master Monte Zucker and am just trying to “pay forward” what he generously taught me.
Liked the video! Sorry to say spot metering on my Canon 6D Mark II does not follow the focus point, the circle is in the center of the frame. I shoot in manual mode - mostly landscapes using evaluative metering, but for high contrast scenes I meter off the highlights/brightest area, adjust my exposure accordingly, recompose scene, then use the histogram exposing to the right until the highlights are almost clipped.
Very handy feature for Sony users is face priority for metering. It is not a standalone metering option but complementary to matrix and thus a little hidden in the menues.
I commenced my photographic journey way back in the late 60's. Never have I needed a seperate light meter, even in that era, cameras had built in centre weighted light meters built in. Also, with mirrorless cameras with an EVF - You can see the 'final' image in the EVF and adjust the image as necessary using the exposure compensation dial.
I did use a separate light meter when shooting with a 6x6 double lens reflex (DLR?) Rolleicord I borrowed from a friend in the 70's. My first own camera had built in selective metering (square in centre) with pure manual exposure control. 16 years later my first multi-mode-AE camera had a very tricky spot metering as an option to the selective metering I was used (and mostly sticking) to.After that any camera had Evaluative/Matrix Metering which I used but never fully trusted. But from 2013 on there was my first mirrorless EVF-based camera and that really changed the way I'm doing metering by using the exposure compensation dial just like you 👍
Keep in mind cameras evaluate 'reflected' light, not the light source itself. Hand-held meters have the capability of measuring light sources, which is especially valuable in snow scenes, etc.
Thanks for making it simple. Totally agree find what works for you n stick with it. I do landscape and bird photography . Totally two different settings I go to for each.
I'm finding that with modern cameras and sensors that are relatively ISO invariant, highlight priority meeting is very useful in tricky situations, centre weighted for more general use.
Highlight metering is awesome at performances where the light changes very often and tends to be very contrasting. It makes it easy to prevent over exposing the performer's face that's getting all the light. I find it often looks similar to what the lighting designer intended with a bright subject with everything else falling off to deep shadows.
My Z8 is on matrix-metering, never looked in that any further until now. Your video helps really to rethink that, thank you. I often look at the histogram and change exposure with the +/- dail. I like to freeze my exposure when I am satisfied, using one on the function-buttons on the front of the camera that's dedicated for freezing/unfreezing the current exposure. So that I'm able to optimize the composition a bit, without worrying that the exposure changes automatically again as a result of the reframing of the composition.
Ciao Mark and respect for your videos 👍 Still, as a lifelong Nikon shooter, and you are obviously having a Z camera on your desk, here some facts. You didn't mention a powerful and variable setting with Nikon cameras and that is the Auto D lighting. Of course, that option is available in the Nikom software if you shoot RAW or, in Nikon's case NEF files. Using that option in your Nikon camera is essential in case of mirrorless cameras as it gives you a chance to manipulate the matrix and other types of metering by seeing it on your screen or through the viewfinder. Secondly, the most precise light metering for portraits is still the spot metering. Spot meter on the forehead of your model, lock the exposure and you are in control. And, of course there is a back button focussing method which gives us even more control possibilities over the exposure and how to manage it already in the camera. Hope you agree with me, I am speaking from some decades of experience 😂 Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you Mark for showing the effects of different metering modes very intuitively. 👏My camera provides two variants of spot metering for highlights or shadows what simply adds a fixed correction factor to the value metered, so you can either meter a bright spot with negative compensation or a shadow spot with a positive one. But I don't really use it as I prefer doing the compensation myself. Just for completeness sake: Center weighed metering as shown at first in your video does part of the metering all over the frame but the main part in the centre whereas some other cameras may provide integral metering all over the frame. On some cameras there's also selective metering which only does metering in a small area shown in the VF and is basically like spot metering but using a lerger area.
Spot metering, on any part of the scene is going to try to made it middle gray. Then everything that's a different shade is either going to be over or under exposed. That's why the zone system was developed, to adjust the exposure away from middle gray to where you want the metered area to appear.
Longtime Canon shooter here. I have metering mode practically welded to evaluative. I use auto ISO, but use the mode dial for exposure compensation. A quick spin to account for dark subject light background or vice versa. Check the histogram if I'm getting fussy. That's it
Good explanation. The days of using a 1º spot meter and the zone system seem to have been taken over by the use of a histogram. I miss the days when photographers had to really know the more technical aspects of the craft. Hyperfocal focus, inverse square law......basics that not many know these days.
A very informative video BUT ... the title says "This Metering Mode is Ruining Your EXPOSURE!"! This was never mentioned ... which metering mode and why? Is it just being used as click bait? That's not necessary as your videos are excellent without having to resort to that.
I use highlight and matrix depending what I’m shooting. Highlight weighted is my main cause yes I do like my scenes dark. But I use my exposure composition to balance it out
regardless of mode (which is only as assistant), most important is to understand that digital cameras measure for mid-grey (zone 5 on scale of 11). But there are many very bright objects like sky that are not in the 5th zone, but rather 7th to 9th (which means camera set to measure for sky, will underexpose the rest of the scene by 2-4 stops!), and many very dark objects like shadows or heavy forest that are in zone 2-3 (which means camera set to measure for shadow, will overexpose the rest of the scene by 2-3 stops). Objects that belong to zone5 are human skin, light buildings, open landscapes etc... There are many good videos on yt explaining that concept...
I was fully on manual exposure while shooting film (single point metering was my most used built in camera metering equipment beside measuring the light intensity with a separate device). Years ago I changed to matrix metering with me controlling the exposure offset due to my artificial intentions. I will never again switch to another metering method with a digital camera (if in a very special case I would opt metering the light with the external device). The aperture is set by myself in 99.9% of all shots, today in most cases I let the camera select the exposure time and ISO (but I set the limits according to my interests). Histograms and test shot reviews are your friend today.
Interesting. My Canon cameras have a different mode, which I use pretty much all the time - "evaluative metering". The way it was explained to me, it's basically spot metering with some center weighted added in. If I'm shooting fast travel shots with little or no warning, which I often do, I'll just set exposure compensation at -2/3 stop to help protect highlights and not worry unless I've got a particularly high or low key image, in which case, I'll dial it in with exposure compensation. If I have any doubt, or the time, I'll throw a histogram up on the screen or EVF - I can toggle it quickly on both my bodies. Of course, I can meter manually, or spot meter if necessary, but I find that there are so many good ways to approach the problem that I can make pretty much anything work (my favorite SLR has only spot metering, FWIW).
Center weighted; Exposure Lock; recompose; shoot (focus on half press). Like we used to do with back button focus. (or fix the button to AF/AE lock on the back button)
I feel like if you’re locking exposure (and the feature can be useful in live events for sure) you might as well just shoot in manual. Too many people are afraid of manual mode. I think it’s because they don’t truly understand exposure. They use a priority mode, TTL flash and just hope it works.
After light ,i think metering is the most important concept you must understand.As usual a wonderful video that will clear the metering.T'ons of thanks.MAY GOD BLESS YOU.
I was born in the 1960s and I can testify that I literally stayed away from photography because I hated metering. I watched people do it, I shook my head and used point and shoot cameras, and when digital cameras came about, I jumped on them! I love the metering options with digital.
I was just experimenting with this yesterday. I tried spot mode for a dragonfly hovering over a black pond. It worked pretty well, save for the light being on the wrong side of the scene to get that nice backlight through its wings.
One question I've had is why center-weighted metering would ever be better than spot metering locked to the focus point for portraiture/animal photography, particularly on newer nikon, sony, and canon cameras that have incredible subject-detection autofocus. If the camera can always (or almost always) lock on to the subject regardless of whether it is in the center or corners of the frame, won't this always be more reliable than center-weighted metering in these instances? A related question is whether spot focus in portraiture is more likely to over/under-expose skin tones because it is metering based on only the focus point (the eye) and not the entire face, whereas center-weighted metering would usually take the whole face into account.
Spot metering on a can will meter on a small sample from the center of the screen not on the focus point on a Nikon. This is where Nikon really shines.
Spot metering ties to focus point may not be a good choice if the selected focus point is relatively bright or dark relative to the exposure you want. Center weighted averages in the whole frame, it is a carry over from older technology for those that are used to it. In most cases that center weighted is preferred over spot metering, matrix metering will be even better.
Ok, well that explains it. I was using highlighted metering on my camera when taking photos outside at a harbor last week. All the photos came out darker than normal and I had to correct (sometimes significantly) in Lightroom. Really confusing because it was sunny outside. I just switched to center-weighted metering - hopefully my photos will be brighter next time I'm out taking photos. Thanks.
I like spot metering for manual shooting. I'll point my camera around the scene and evaluate the exposure of my highlights and shadows, then set my exposure so that I'm protecting both of those as best possible for the situation. Of course I shoot raw and then adjust my final exposure in post.
Mostly matrix, occasionally spot. I also never have a reason to use highlight weighted. When Nikon introduced this I seem to recall they were suggesting stage lighting as an example of when this would be helpful. Maybe it is.
When I shoot live music, I always use highlight weighted. It really helps in keeping bright led stage lights from blowing out the subject's skin. Also, where it is a spot metering and I frame my subjects all over the frame, it keeps everything in check and looking good.
Hi Mark, great video about meter modes. I mainly do landscape work and I've found that manual combined with spot metering mode gives me a lot more control. It can be a bit more labour intensive at times but I've found that with more practise I'm understanding my camera better.
Yep, I definitely fall into the Matrix Metering camp. I do vlogs, landscape, pics of my motorcycle, all the things... and Matrix gets me close enough. I went through the same exercise a few months ago with my Nikon Z30, and you're right - it's 100% understood once you try each of them out!
Thanks Mark this really does make things more clear about the different modes and where to use them. Time to get out and capture some fall colors, I appreciate you taking the time to show us.
BRAVO Mark fine explanation! I know what you mean about finding a way to make the subject understandable! I've tried explaining metering as it pertains to digital cameras and the options available. I inevitably end up going further into the subject of light and dynamic range than that person would wish to or be able to fully understand. If they haven't cried out in frustration and stopped me, the explanation enters the hour mark and we're beginning to see eyes glazing over and minds disconnecting because I'm now beginning the long explanation of "The Zone System" albeit Minor White's more simplified version still puts most to sleep. I use the Zone System more now in my head when deciding how I want to expose for a certain scene, however given the magic of digital post processing that entails exposure stacking/blending, the implementation Zone System fundamentals is handled far differently than in my 30+ years of film shooting, from large format to 35mm. I'm one of the few who ALWAYS developed my own film and made my own prints with the exception of color which in the old days was quite expensive and much more difficult for those of us who rarely used color. In film you had that one chance to properly expose for a negative that you could depend on for producing the final print you pre-visualized before even thinking about attaching the film sleeve to the back of your camera. There was a very narrow margin for proper exposures and although you could salvage a passable print from a pretty awful negative with a lot of work and paper grade choices, dodging and burning, stopping down or opening up the aperture of the enlarger, it wasn't at all an optimal situation, and you'd consider the negative to be virtually a total loss. I'm fully invested in digital today, and I work more freely knowing that I have a far more sophisticated post-processing element that allows me much leeway in my creativity. After ALL this Mark, really great explanation of metering settings and their usefulness in different situations.
Great general explanation of metering, Mark. I shoot on Canon mirrorless and the spot metering is, unfortunately, tied to the center spot ONLY. Even if you move the focus point, your metering is done at the center spot. Obviously this can be overcome by pointing the center spot at your subject and then recomposing. I just wanted to make you aware that spot metering doesn't work that way on all brands. Don't quote me, but I believe the only Canon digital bodies that allowed moving "the spot" were the 1DX series.
@@Mr_Glenn Understood. It isn't a matter of having "issues" with it. It's knowing how the system works and how to work around the immovable spot metering area. I was simply pointing out that the Canon mirrorless cameras don't offer a moveable spot metering area like the camera Mark was demonstrating on.
Excellent explanation! I never understood metering until now. Thank you!! By the way, I love your shirt. We've been to Ouray many times, and just love it.
If your scene is evenly illuminated, the mode is not important. But as soon as you have high contrast or do high key / low key photography, you certainly do not want the camera to decide the exposure but take things in your own hand. And in that moment, it is only a question of taste whether you choose spot metering, exposure compensation or fully manual (with view finder).
I tried the Highlight Metering for the first time only throughout the week. Photographing 'Willy WagTail Nesting' Had a strong side light in the background for part of the image and seems to have balanced it out beautifully. Generally though I do use centre weighted
I have highlight metering assigned to an Fn key in my landscape user mode for a quick check on the highlights on my Z7. This is a manual mode, so I don’t necessarily shoot in that metering mode, but it gives me a better idea of when to bracket. Often it comes up with a slight enough adjustment for a single exposure. I found it especially useful during sunrise when the light changes fast.
If you move the focus/light marker in spot, and assuming aperture mode, then -- you can choose anywhere in your photo in order to change brightness.-- you can refine in post ---especially when using gfx100s or similar equipment
what I really want is to set highlight point for one of the zones, to keep texture in highlights area - and same for keep details in shadows... give 2 points, and make sure it does it. this is zone system basically...
Greetings Mark. Many thanks for a very comprehensive and informative tutorial. I have found that Spot Metering (from any distance) is the most accurate for use on my Floral Portraits. It appears to have quite a bit more flexibility than I had anticipated and certainly contributes to much more enhanced I.Q., than other systems I have used. Once again, many thanks for a great video. Regards, Tony :))
It's important to note (and this may vary by brand or camera) when you use spot metering, generally it is slightly larger than the physical spot where your focus point is (this is the case at least on Nikons), and you find the "boundaries" of this spot is by doing the sme test you would have done for center-weighted but with spot metering, you'll notice the areas where the exposure settings change as you move the camera around say a light source, this will tell you where the boundaries of spot metering are in relation to the focus point. But for the most part, I think the focus point does cover the majority of the area metered but it can extend a bit beyond the focus point area. Personally for me, and the what I shoot, I have found that I use spot metering probably 3/4 of the time, regardless of how I'm shooting so to speak, especially if I'm shooting for HDR has this helps me determine (1) if I need to do a multi-frame HDR, and (2) what is the brightest and darkest areas of the photos (what are the settings or shutter speed needed and this helps me set up in-camera bracketing). I have found that matrix metering is probably the least used and partially because of how and what I tend to shoot. It's provided the least reliable results for me. So I'd say for me, spot metering is my first choice most of the time, followed by center weighted maybe 1/4 of the time (and mainly for specific things like portraits like you mentioned).
I should try that +.5. I love the concept because it protects the highlights on people's faces but it's too dark most of the time. But then again, post processing generally pulls it all together.
I still use a D7100 and I (I’m assuming you can do it on newer cameras too) use the metering button combined with rear control dial to change modes. I can’t imagine how anybody could be going into menus to do that but I guess you’re doing it that way so you can show it on a video? I change it frequently… not for ‘every’ shot but walking around on holiday or doing street stuff etc, I’ll change it for pretty much every location AND adjust the EV comp to suit with some thought to what the metering mode is going to do. Both of these things (on the D7100 at least) are instantly accessible with the dials and I’m pretty much adjusting these in my hands without looking at the camper before bringing the camera up to my eye to shoot. does it still look this way on modern Nikon cameras or do you have to use menus?
Great video! I used spot metering 90% of my shootings. The only time I use center metering is when I do group photo shooting or certain landscape shooting…
When I first started out about 5 1/2 years ago, the advice I heard most often was to always use manual exposure settings. (Which I never agreed with for the most part - aperture priority works perfectly for the majority of the situations.). However, the frustrating thing was I never saw anyone explain _how_ to use manual exposure settings regardless of which metering mode you choose. It is just in the past few months that I finally bumped into a resource that explained, in detail, how to use manual exposure settings correctly. It has helped out a _ton_.
Let’s be clear, “back in the film days” we had ttl metering in the sixties. Sure, I carried a handheld light meter, but I didn’t use it a whole lot unless I had the view camera. Also, when you’re in a priority mode, the exposure compensation dial is just as important as the type of metering you’re doing. To use EC, you really have to understand how the meter chooses exposure. You kind of skipped past the neutral grey thing a little quickly. 😊. The black card on a white wall example still illustrates it very well. Anyway, I enjoyed the video. f/8, man!
Matrix metering mostly on my Nikon. But I have spot metering on a function button (hold down to switch to it) which is useful in hand-held mode for some subjects (like portraits).
Mark...really enjoyed this video and you seem an excellent teacher...Since we are on the topic of METERING I have had this question a long time. All you ever hear about these days is "eye-auto focus." How Sony Canon leads the way blah blah blah...guess they do BUT I presently shoot Nikon, also Fuji...and have a Leica q2. In any case I tend to stay on evaluative metering, BUT my question is: if I choose to use "Eye auto focus" it SEEMS to me at least on Nikon and Fuji, EYE is turning metering to SPOT, regardless of how I have metering set. Is that possible, or JUST auto raising your exposure? All I want is the eye in focus...don't want an exposure or metering change. Whatever EYE is doing I find it I will often end up with badly blown highlights though the SUBJECT may now be perfectly lit. Because of this, I am finding unless the light is VERY even, eye-auto is almost a negative as far as exposure overall is concerned...any thoughts on this?, again is it changing your metering to SPOT or just raising exposure...which lets the camera decide? If anyone may know...Thanks...and new subscriber here! :)
As your demo clearly shows, the center weighted does not always work, we could see it over-exposing sometimes... I always use Full Framing meetering because if something is on the frame, even just in one corner, it must be accounted for. This said, no option will save you from the need to compensate here and there, because it all depends on what you like as the end result. When light intensity is very contrasted there are no miracles... I only have one exception, Outdoor Portrait, where I can't trust the Histogram because the most important thing is to avoid editing Human skin so I go for spot meetring and later may need to edit the backgrounds... The full frame meetering is the less worst option because it averages the exposure as much as possible, leaving less to exit... Of course it all depends on the subject and the need or no need to hurry up... You can go old school and spot meter the highest and lowest light and than in manual you smack it right in the middle...
It seems that any metering mode can be appropriately used if you are aware of how your camera will expose the composition of every image differently depending on the relationship of highlights, shadows and points of interest. The metering mode on my camera is set at evaluative metering. Through years of practice with my camera and one specific metering I understand that a photograph of a person under a bright streetlight will underexpose what is med-gray and try to get detail in the streetlight. Through experience though one learns how to compensate the exposure.
Answering video, but you overlooked a huge number of details. I’ll give you a few examples: using spot meter in portrait, photography, more than likely is going to give you an incorrect exposure, the reason is because human beings are not the 18% gray that the spot meter is assuming. You have to compensate accordingly. Then there’s also the factor of what matrix metering does. It does so much more than just evaluate the whole image. You might want to do a really deep dive on what matrix metering really is. You might need to go back and look at some articles that started to explore the concept back when the first powerful matrix meter in camera came on the scene: Nikon F5 with its 1005 point matrix metering.
In my 1970s FILM CAMERA I use whatever light meter setting BUILT INTO THE CAMERA is best for whatever subject I’m shooting. Because for nearly all SLR history SLR cameras have had in built light meters. I’ve never had to carry a separate device with me to take a light exposure on any film SLR because it’s rare to get one without a light meter. And if by chance I never I’d use the right settings for the conditions to get a decent exposure. The reason any film photographer used a separate device is the same reason digital photographers still use the same separate devices. Mostly an understanding between the difference of incidental vs reflective light.
When I first started learning DSLR my instructor at the time stressed to use spot metering. I used spot metering all the time but found I was spending a lot of time in post processing adjusting the photo's. One day about 2 years ago I saw a video on youtube to use matrix mode. I tried it out and it was like night and day. Since I do a lot of landscapes and car shows and hardly ever portraits, I found I still adjust but not as drastically as I did with spot metering. By the way. I hope someday you will have a video on how to shoot people or portraits because I am terrible at it.
Mark you needed to explain manual mode a bit more. If people didn't know of the various metering options they most likely would not know that the combination of speed and aperture is what one sets. The meter on the right says that to use the cameras choice of exposure you need to change one of the manual settings to achieve a mid point or use a combination of both. What you are seeing is a meter that is showing the shot EV and the combined EV of the speed and focus must match to use the camera recommendations or purposefully make it under exposed, over exposed, or selecting a longer or shorter shutter opening, or a bigger or lesser DOF using the meter recommendations as a guide, proving one cannot have a longer exposure and a shallower DOF at the same time unless the meter lets you. Though EV seems to be out of fashion nowadays its still true. Also why do you need to go into the depths of the menus to change metering mode? Doesn't Nikon have a quick select control that gives the ability to change this and other image settings with just 1 or 2 button pushes. By the time you found the setting the opportunity has long gone. Olympus has a quick select display panel with all the usual variables on it for fast change and has done for eons or even assignable buttons, I can focus on the touch screen at any position. I have a button assigned to re center the focus afterwards easy.
This was very helpful actually for me. I usually have it on Matrix for EVERYTHING. Once in a while I'll use Center. Regardless, it's nice to really get a simplistic understanding of it all. Thank you!
Trivia for people still using Nikon DSLRs and looking at histograms post-shot (AKA 'chimping'). If you zoom in and move the loupe around, the histogram will reflect the part of the shot that's visible. I mostly use it to see if I've blown something in particular out (e.g. bright colored flower) as if that channel is blown there's no way to get the actual color back. No idea if all camera bodies do this, but it works on my D600, D750, and D850 (only ones I have on hand).
I always shoot in manual and adjust accordingly to the available light, aperture or ISO Is what i usually change as my shutterspeed never changes it stays at 1/500 sec usually, I sometimes use the auto exposure lock button.
I like the hands-on walkthrough approach. It could be useful for many similar topics. Good idea, and good presentation. Another photographic mystery cleared up. Thank you!
My little canon 200d doesn't work the spot metering by the focus point and just works from the centre, and centre weighted is just a bigger circle than spot and partial isn't much bigger than that again
An excellent explanation! btw-- as a Canon user I don't know whether that camera is a DSLR or mirrorless. Maybe that has been explained in the comments but I have a short attention span😁
💥QUICK QUESTION: Which Metering Mode do You Use most often?
I use evaluative mode. I shoot with a Canon EOS R and the evaluative metering is linked to the focus point, or the exposure is weighted to the focus point selected.
I've always used Matrix metering.
Matrix
Almost always matrix metering.
Evaluative on my R6
as someone who photographs moving objects with intense light sources- I live and die by spot/center weighted with full manual + auto ISO. having full control lockdown of shutter speed and depth of field/sharpness is essential and with spot/center I can let auto iso just pick what it needs and I get amazingly consistent results day and night. kudos for an excellent explanation of metering modes!
Spot metering is the way to go for DSLR users. Mirrorless users don't need any metering at all. Light metering is a relic of the DSLR era.
Full manual and auto ISO contradict one another. Manual with auto ISO makes sense. It's how I usually shoot wildlife. But "full manual" means just that. No auto anything.
To be honest, I set the majority of my exposures using the camera's histogram and seldom ever pay attention to the actual *meter* setting ( not to be confused with the metering mode, I use matrix 98% of the time). This has worked out well for *_my_* style of shooting. One great thing about photography is that there are so many ways to arrive at the same place. Find one that works for you and shoot away. Nice explanations, Mark.
Exactly, this is what makes photography and videography exciting, every person can have their unique style.
One caution being to have the shutter speed appropriate for either hand-held (e.g. 1/focal length of lens used*any sensor factor) or tripod, depending on what's in use.
So I don’t mean to be a jerk, but I am an anal engineer so here goes:
That histogram that you’re using exists because of… The light meter…. It’s simply mirroring the whole image to create the histogram.
Just out of curiosity, how do you adjust your histogram? Do you shoot in Manuel mode all the time or do you use the exposure compensation dial to adjusted?
@@SamCarleton I, like you, am a very inquisitive person. I do not pay attention to the *meter* in terms of whether the image is under/over or "correctly" exposed. The histogram gives me a better sense of the tonal value I am about to capture as opposed to whether the entire image will be darker or lighter than the camera thinks it should be. I shoot in manual mode 90% of the time, not because it's _the_ way to do it, but because it's how I learned way back in the film days when cameras and lenses were manual and it is second nature to me. I'll sometimes shoot in aperture priority with exposure compensation but not very often. To each his own, right?
@@slowlyrusting4044 I, too, come from the film days of shooting chrome and using a spot meter for correct exposure. So I am totally with you!
My only point is that the only way to get your histogram is by the light meter reading the scene to create it. so... technically you are using the light meter, just not in a classical way :P
This is why manual mode + histogram has always been my preferred approach. I do the 'priorty' in my head.
I agree the histogram is very important tool a lot of people don't understand or use.
I've been shooting manually for years using the in camera Hist. For landscapes, Matrix Metering is the most accurate.
My favourite option would be the zebras if my camera had them (and especially if they were raw-based); sadly, it can only show them for video, not stills.
If you shoot outdoor portrait in a backlighted situation, when you get the perfect histogram the person may be really badly exposed and force you to edit the skin a lot, the histogram did not guess there was a person, it just balanced the exposure right for the massive light differences it found...
@@Zealor365When you shoot manual you use the -1 -0- +1 indicator to guide yourself, you are trusting the camera meeter, well guess what - when you use shutter or apperture priorities you can also trust your camera meetering, it does not measure subjects worse than when it is on manual, lol
Thanks for a great video. FYI, I use highlight metering when taking pictures of white birds, especially egrets. It is very easy for them to get blown out unless you compensate somehow.
Same with the moon
Set spot metering > focus on subject > lock focus (back button focus) > move camera around to obtain the desired exposure for the subject > lock exposure by half press of shutter button > recompose and shoot
Was going to add just that point. Though I think with some cameras you have to tell it whether you want to back button (or half shutter press) lock both focus and exposure, or just focus. But yeah, I'd much rather do that than manually move my focus point around for every different composition.
Oops! Too late! The bird I was trying to photograph is in the next county!
Tried back button focus, then you give your camera to a person to take a photo of you and your wife and the focus doesn’t work and they don’t have a clue. Going back to half press and a back button for servo only and one for eye focus.
@@alansach8437 Just because a certain technique is not useful for some kinds of photography doesn't mean it's not useful.
@@joekidd8 Can't speak for every camera, but at least on my Nikon you can have both at once -- half-press and back-button.
I finally get it! I’ve read many descriptions of the various metering modes and always come away confused about the differences. Seeing you demonstrate it in your camera’s Live View has taken all the mystery out of it. Thank you.
Just a small clarification. Matrix (or Evaluative as Canon calls it) is not just a simple averaging of the reading of the different segments of the matrix. To quote Nikon "The camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to tone distribution, color, composition, and distance for results close to those seen by the naked eye."
In other words the camera applies a sophisticated algorithm to the readings in effect comparing it to similar lighting situations.
This is not the same as full frame metering which simply measures the total amount of light reaching the frame. As such it is inherently prone to error and is now more or less obso0letealthough I think Sony still offer it as option on some models?
It is true BTW that separate meters were a common feature of my early photographic career(starting in 1969!) but even by the early 1970s the vast majority of cameras had TTL or similar metering built in. I would say that getting to know how to use a hand held meter is a really good way of understanding light and exposure in many ways ( eg exposure equivalents etc) ands many would argue it's a great tool to understand the Zone System even if its practical necessity is long gone...
Exactly. "Evaluative" is very descriptive. The camera looks at a wide area and "evaluates". It is not center weighted averaging, which is a different mode altogether. Over the years evaluative or matrix metering has gotten better and better. In modern cameras, in all but the most complicated cases, it will generally get you very close to the proper exposure. In most cases you will need no more than one to two thirds of a stop of compensation one way or the other. Nowadays, we also have the histogram in the viewfinder (if we so choose). 98% of the time this allows for instant compensation (if needed) with one dial and a perfect exposure every time. Folks tend to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
Do you mean zone system is obsolete or meters? I happen to think a light meter is a necessity for portrait and macro photography.
Absolutely NOT obsolete. It's all still relevant. It's all still basically the same as it has always been, and it is important to know how exposure works. But with the histogram in the viewfinder, and exposure and depth of field simulated, it is easier than ever to get where you need to be. Exposure mode doesn't matter in the way it used to. You are still using the light meter, except now your feedback is the histogram and the viewfinder image, rather than matching needles. We have way more information than we ever have. Still vitally important to know what adjusting the shutter speed and (or opposed to) the aperture does to your image.
Ever since 2000 when I got my first digital camera with a histogram I’ve used it and the highlight clipping warning with center weighed metering. When doing portraits with ambient, ambient + flash or just flash I always start with black and white towels draped over the edges of the gray card I use as a WB reference and for setting custom WB.
The reality of exposure is that digital sensors can’t reproduce scenes “normally” per the baseline of our adaptive vision. In the majority of scenes, especially those with faces in them, maintaining separation between “Zone 9 - brightest solid white in scene = 245-254” and “Zone 10 - 3D shaped defining clues on white objects = 255” with some loss of shadow detail and darker than normal midtones is the best single exposure, ambient only strategy and the easiest way achieve it regardless of camera metering mode used is to increase exposure until the Zone 9 white objects in the scene are 1/3 stop below clipping and a photo of a white towel will retain the texture visually and have a 0-255 8-bit eyedropper value of between 245 and 254, reserving 255 clipping for the specular highlights in the actual file captured (RAW or JPG). Since the RAW files have more exposure ‘headroom’ than the JPGs used in the camera for playback you’ll need to compare RAW reading with appearance of clipping on the whites to fine tune exposure for the highlights.
The way deal with loss of shadow detail detail and noise for static scenes is to shoot on a tripod and first expose highlights 1/3 under clipping then slow shutter by three EV / stops to create a second shadow exposure. Rather than using automated HDR and winding up with a ‘Sea of Sameness” that looks unnatural I open the both files separately then copy/paste the entire shadow exposure as a second layer over the highlight exposure. I than add a black filled mask (hold down opt/alt when clicking mask icon) the SELECTIVELY open the mask to add in the shadow detail, more around the focal point(s) I want the viewer to find and dwell on, creating a tonal / detail “on ramp” to the focal point similar to how our brains get “tunnel vision” and “tune out” what the more sensitive rod cells in the periphery are detecting. It’s a bit more work but the result is more organic and natural than AI produced HDR.
The key to overcoming sensor range limitations with flash illuminated foregrounds is to always use the sun as back rim light and start, regardless of camera metering mode, by keeping the parts of the white towel ‘kissed’ by the sun 1/3 below clipping at the aperture desired for DOF, with shutter at max sync speed or below.
Exposing for the sunny highlights on the white towel that will also expose all the highlights in the background below clipping but underexpose the front of the subject.
The next thing I always do is pose the face(s) towards the dominant direction of the northern sky, lifting the subject’s chin as need to get light past the brow and into the eyes unless going for a brooding detached vibe.
The first flash I add is the FILL I keep centered over the camera on a Stroboframe Camera-Rotating bracket, raising its power until detail is seen in my BLACK TOWEL exposure target. This is the step 99% of photographers today don’t understand the need for. I do because back in 1970 when I shot my first portraits with a pair of shop lights I followed the instructions in a Kodak “How To Make Portraits” which explained the rationale for using centered, shadowless as possible (from POV of lens fill). With a digital sensor any shadows produced by the fill will be noise filled voids, which are easily avoided by keeping a FILL flash above the lens when shooting with flash.
The final step is placing the KEY flash. It can go anywhere but if the goal is to SEAMLESSLY marry the flash with the ambient it needs to hit the face on the same vector as the natural light modeling the face. Since skylight comes from such a steep angle, forcing subject to look up, positioning the KEY flash ideally to match the lower contrast ambient pattern will require a 10-12ft light stand to match the 3D modeling vector of the skylight. Key Flash power needs to be set 2/3 EV below clipping (1/3 stop below sun-kissed non-clipping whites) to preserve the ‘ambience’ of the back rim sun lighting.
The final step is to raise the POV of the camera so the sensor is parallel / / with front plane of the face looking up to get light in the eyes. That will foreshorten the body and make the ground around the subject the background in the photo. How much the body is foreshortened is controlled via shooting distance and elevation. Higher and further away is better for multi-row group photos because it puts all the faces closer together relative to the camera and gets great light on the faces.
If fill is on bracket over camera it moves with the camera and isn’t something that needs any conscious thought once power level is dialed via the black towel. It might seem complicated but all new things do the first time. Once you seen the difference in the results you’ll better understand why it works and it will become second nature.
I’ve been shooting with flash that way for over 50 years after learning the technique working for lighting Zen Master Monte Zucker and am just trying to “pay forward” what he generously taught me.
holy geez lol
Liked the video! Sorry to say spot metering on my Canon 6D Mark II does not follow the focus point, the circle is in the center of the frame. I shoot in manual mode - mostly landscapes using evaluative metering, but for high contrast scenes I meter off the highlights/brightest area, adjust my exposure accordingly, recompose scene, then use the histogram exposing to the right until the highlights are almost clipped.
Very handy feature for Sony users is face priority for metering. It is not a standalone metering option but complementary to matrix and thus a little hidden in the menues.
Where is this setting? Is it on a7iv or only the newest cameras?
@spencerfr1 I also have an A7 IV, it should be under: MENU → Exposure/Color → Metering → Face Priority in Multi Metering
@spencerfr1 My A7 IV has it. It should be in MENU → (Exposure/Color) → [Metering] → [Face Priority in Multi Metering].
You did a good job of explaining the metering issue. Using the camera itself to illustrate is a good way to do it.
Thanks Ron!
You are such a great teacher. Very clear explanations and I love the hands on approach.
Thanks so much!
I commenced my photographic journey way back in the late 60's. Never have I needed a seperate light meter, even in that era, cameras had built in centre weighted light meters built in.
Also, with mirrorless cameras with an EVF - You can see the 'final' image in the EVF and adjust the image as necessary using the exposure compensation dial.
I did use a separate light meter when shooting with a 6x6 double lens reflex (DLR?) Rolleicord I borrowed from a friend in the 70's. My first own camera had built in selective metering (square in centre) with pure manual exposure control. 16 years later my first multi-mode-AE camera had a very tricky spot metering as an option to the selective metering I was used (and mostly sticking) to.After that any camera had Evaluative/Matrix Metering which I used but never fully trusted. But from 2013 on there was my first mirrorless EVF-based camera and that really changed the way I'm doing metering by using the exposure compensation dial just like you 👍
Keep in mind cameras evaluate 'reflected' light, not the light source itself. Hand-held meters have the capability of measuring light sources, which is especially valuable in snow scenes, etc.
Perfectly explained. Well done Mark, as usual
Thanks for making it simple. Totally agree find what works for you n stick with it. I do landscape and bird photography . Totally two different settings I go to for each.
I'm finding that with modern cameras and sensors that are relatively ISO invariant, highlight priority meeting is very useful in tricky situations, centre weighted for more general use.
Highlight metering is awesome at performances where the light changes very often and tends to be very contrasting. It makes it easy to prevent over exposing the performer's face that's getting all the light. I find it often looks similar to what the lighting designer intended with a bright subject with everything else falling off to deep shadows.
My Z8 is on matrix-metering, never looked in that any further until now. Your video helps really to rethink that, thank you. I often look at the histogram and change exposure with the +/- dail. I like to freeze my exposure when I am satisfied, using one on the function-buttons on the front of the camera that's dedicated for freezing/unfreezing the current exposure. So that I'm able to optimize the composition a bit, without worrying that the exposure changes automatically again as a result of the reframing of the composition.
Ciao Mark and respect for your videos 👍 Still, as a lifelong Nikon shooter, and you are obviously having a Z camera on your desk, here some facts. You didn't mention a powerful and variable setting with Nikon cameras and that is the Auto D lighting. Of course, that option is available in the Nikom software if you shoot RAW or, in Nikon's case NEF files. Using that option in your Nikon camera is essential in case of mirrorless cameras as it gives you a chance to manipulate the matrix and other types of metering by seeing it on your screen or through the viewfinder. Secondly, the most precise light metering for portraits is still the spot metering. Spot meter on the forehead of your model, lock the exposure and you are in control. And, of course there is a back button focussing method which gives us even more control possibilities over the exposure and how to manage it already in the camera. Hope you agree with me, I am speaking from some decades of experience 😂 Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you Mark for showing the effects of different metering modes very intuitively. 👏My camera provides two variants of spot metering for highlights or shadows what simply adds a fixed correction factor to the value metered, so you can either meter a bright spot with negative compensation or a shadow spot with a positive one. But I don't really use it as I prefer doing the compensation myself. Just for completeness sake: Center weighed metering as shown at first in your video does part of the metering all over the frame but the main part in the centre whereas some other cameras may provide integral metering all over the frame. On some cameras there's also selective metering which only does metering in a small area shown in the VF and is basically like spot metering but using a lerger area.
This is one of the best videos for explaining the Metering Mode. Thank you!
Amazing - thank you!
Spot metering, on any part of the scene is going to try to made it middle gray. Then everything that's a different shade is either going to be over or under exposed. That's why the zone system was developed, to adjust the exposure away from middle gray to where you want the metered area to appear.
Longtime Canon shooter here. I have metering mode practically welded to evaluative. I use auto ISO, but use the mode dial for exposure compensation. A quick spin to account for dark subject light background or vice versa. Check the histogram if I'm getting fussy. That's it
Good explanation. The days of using a 1º spot meter and the zone system seem to have been taken over by the use of a histogram. I miss the days when photographers had to really know the more technical aspects of the craft. Hyperfocal focus, inverse square law......basics that not many know these days.
A very informative video BUT ... the title says "This Metering Mode is Ruining Your EXPOSURE!"! This was never mentioned ... which metering mode and why? Is it just being used as click bait? That's not necessary as your videos are excellent without having to resort to that.
You and I watched two different videos 😂 you should watch again
I use highlight and matrix depending what I’m shooting. Highlight weighted is my main cause yes I do like my scenes dark. But I use my exposure composition to balance it out
From the mid-70s through the early 2000s I shot on a series of 35mm cameras. Everyone of them had built-in light meters.
Thx for clarifying those, very useful and informative.
regardless of mode (which is only as assistant), most important is to understand that digital cameras measure for mid-grey (zone 5 on scale of 11). But there are many very bright objects like sky that are not in the 5th zone, but rather 7th to 9th (which means camera set to measure for sky, will underexpose the rest of the scene by 2-4 stops!), and many very dark objects like shadows or heavy forest that are in zone 2-3 (which means camera set to measure for shadow, will overexpose the rest of the scene by 2-3 stops).
Objects that belong to zone5 are human skin, light buildings, open landscapes etc... There are many good videos on yt explaining that concept...
I was fully on manual exposure while shooting film (single point metering was my most used built in camera metering equipment beside measuring the light intensity with a separate device).
Years ago I changed to matrix metering with me controlling the exposure offset due to my artificial intentions. I will never again switch to another metering method with a digital camera (if in a very special case I would opt metering the light with the external device).
The aperture is set by myself in 99.9% of all shots, today in most cases I let the camera select the exposure time and ISO (but I set the limits according to my interests).
Histograms and test shot reviews are your friend today.
Interesting. My Canon cameras have a different mode, which I use pretty much all the time - "evaluative metering". The way it was explained to me, it's basically spot metering with some center weighted added in.
If I'm shooting fast travel shots with little or no warning, which I often do, I'll just set exposure compensation at -2/3 stop to help protect highlights and not worry unless I've got a particularly high or low key image, in which case, I'll dial it in with exposure compensation. If I have any doubt, or the time, I'll throw a histogram up on the screen or EVF - I can toggle it quickly on both my bodies.
Of course, I can meter manually, or spot meter if necessary, but I find that there are so many good ways to approach the problem that I can make pretty much anything work (my favorite SLR has only spot metering, FWIW).
Center weighted; Exposure Lock; recompose; shoot (focus on half press). Like we used to do with back button focus. (or fix the button to AF/AE lock on the back button)
I feel like if you’re locking exposure (and the feature can be useful in live events for sure) you might as well just shoot in manual.
Too many people are afraid of manual mode. I think it’s because they don’t truly understand exposure. They use a priority mode, TTL flash and just hope it works.
After light ,i think metering is the most important concept you must understand.As usual a wonderful video that will clear the metering.T'ons of thanks.MAY GOD BLESS YOU.
I was born in the 1960s and I can testify that I literally stayed away from photography because I hated metering. I watched people do it, I shook my head and used point and shoot cameras, and when digital cameras came about, I jumped on them! I love the metering options with digital.
I was just experimenting with this yesterday. I tried spot mode for a dragonfly hovering over a black pond. It worked pretty well, save for the light being on the wrong side of the scene to get that nice backlight through its wings.
One question I've had is why center-weighted metering would ever be better than spot metering locked to the focus point for portraiture/animal photography, particularly on newer nikon, sony, and canon cameras that have incredible subject-detection autofocus. If the camera can always (or almost always) lock on to the subject regardless of whether it is in the center or corners of the frame, won't this always be more reliable than center-weighted metering in these instances? A related question is whether spot focus in portraiture is more likely to over/under-expose skin tones because it is metering based on only the focus point (the eye) and not the entire face, whereas center-weighted metering would usually take the whole face into account.
Great questions. I was wondering the same things about spot and center weighted.
Spot metering on a can will meter on a small sample from the center of the screen not on the focus point on a Nikon. This is where Nikon really shines.
Spot metering ties to focus point may not be a good choice if the selected focus point is relatively bright or dark relative to the exposure you want. Center weighted averages in the whole frame, it is a carry over from older technology for those that are used to it. In most cases that center weighted is preferred over spot metering, matrix metering will be even better.
Ok, well that explains it. I was using highlighted metering on my camera when taking photos outside at a harbor last week. All the photos came out darker than normal and I had to correct (sometimes significantly) in Lightroom. Really confusing because it was sunny outside. I just switched to center-weighted metering - hopefully my photos will be brighter next time I'm out taking photos. Thanks.
I like spot metering for manual shooting. I'll point my camera around the scene and evaluate the exposure of my highlights and shadows, then set my exposure so that I'm protecting both of those as best possible for the situation. Of course I shoot raw and then adjust my final exposure in post.
Mostly matrix, occasionally spot. I also never have a reason to use highlight weighted. When Nikon introduced this I seem to recall they were suggesting stage lighting as an example of when this would be helpful. Maybe it is.
When I shoot live music, I always use highlight weighted. It really helps in keeping bright led stage lights from blowing out the subject's skin. Also, where it is a spot metering and I frame my subjects all over the frame, it keeps everything in check and looking good.
I use Sony’s version of that all the time for stage lighting. It is hugely helpful, especially for overhead lights and foreheads.
@@SteveDisenhof, especially late in the set, when the sweat is flowing.
Hi Mark, great video about meter modes. I mainly do landscape work and I've found that manual combined with spot metering mode gives me a lot more control. It can be a bit more labour intensive at times but I've found that with more practise I'm understanding my camera better.
Yep, I definitely fall into the Matrix Metering camp. I do vlogs, landscape, pics of my motorcycle, all the things... and Matrix gets me close enough. I went through the same exercise a few months ago with my Nikon Z30, and you're right - it's 100% understood once you try each of them out!
Thanks Mark this really does make things more clear about the different modes and where to use them. Time to get out and capture some fall colors, I appreciate you taking the time to show us.
Glad it was helpful!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Your videos are always useful, being retired now they motivate me to get off my butt and try new things.
Which Metering Mode is best for outdoor portraits with a light background? Dark background?
BRAVO Mark fine explanation! I know what you mean about finding a way to make the subject understandable! I've tried explaining metering as it pertains to digital cameras and the options available. I inevitably end up going further into the subject of light and dynamic range than that person would wish to or be able to fully understand. If they haven't cried out in frustration and stopped me, the explanation enters the hour mark and we're beginning to see eyes glazing over and minds disconnecting because I'm now beginning the long explanation of "The Zone System" albeit Minor White's more simplified version still puts most to sleep. I use the Zone System more now in my head when deciding how I want to expose for a certain scene, however given the magic of digital post processing that entails exposure stacking/blending, the implementation Zone System fundamentals is handled far differently than in my 30+ years of film shooting, from large format to 35mm. I'm one of the few who ALWAYS developed my own film and made my own prints with the exception of color which in the old days was quite expensive and much more difficult for those of us who rarely used color. In film you had that one chance to properly expose for a negative that you could depend on for producing the final print you pre-visualized before even thinking about attaching the film sleeve to the back of your camera. There was a very narrow margin for proper exposures and although you could salvage a passable print from a pretty awful negative with a lot of work and paper grade choices, dodging and burning, stopping down or opening up the aperture of the enlarger, it wasn't at all an optimal situation, and you'd consider the negative to be virtually a total loss.
I'm fully invested in digital today, and I work more freely knowing that I have a far more sophisticated post-processing element that allows me much leeway in my creativity. After ALL this Mark, really great explanation of metering settings and their usefulness in different situations.
Great general explanation of metering, Mark. I shoot on Canon mirrorless and the spot metering is, unfortunately, tied to the center spot ONLY. Even if you move the focus point, your metering is done at the center spot. Obviously this can be overcome by pointing the center spot at your subject and then recomposing. I just wanted to make you aware that spot metering doesn't work that way on all brands. Don't quote me, but I believe the only Canon digital bodies that allowed moving "the spot" were the 1DX series.
I have an R6 and I've never had metering issues with spot metering.
@@Mr_Glenn Understood. It isn't a matter of having "issues" with it. It's knowing how the system works and how to work around the immovable spot metering area. I was simply pointing out that the Canon mirrorless cameras don't offer a moveable spot metering area like the camera Mark was demonstrating on.
Excellent explanation! I never understood metering until now. Thank you!! By the way, I love your shirt. We've been to Ouray many times, and just love it.
I have mine set on Matrix in my Nikon's from day one, honestly it's the most useful for me and one less thing I have to think about.
Also for me with my Fuji XT3.
If your scene is evenly illuminated, the mode is not important.
But as soon as you have high contrast or do high key / low key photography, you certainly do not want the camera to decide the exposure but take things in your own hand.
And in that moment, it is only a question of taste whether you choose spot metering, exposure compensation or fully manual (with view finder).
I use matrix/evaluated , it works fine for most subjests.
Spot mettering is good if you know what your doing, sadly most people dont understand it.
I tried the Highlight Metering for the first time only throughout the week. Photographing 'Willy WagTail Nesting' Had a strong side light in the background for part of the image and seems to have balanced it out beautifully. Generally though I do use centre weighted
I have highlight metering assigned to an Fn key in my landscape user mode for a quick check on the highlights on my Z7. This is a manual mode, so I don’t necessarily shoot in that metering mode, but it gives me a better idea of when to bracket. Often it comes up with a slight enough adjustment for a single exposure. I found it especially useful during sunrise when the light changes fast.
Matrix metering is working great for me. Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience. ❤❤❤
If you move the focus/light marker in spot, and assuming aperture mode, then -- you can choose anywhere in your photo in order to change brightness.-- you can refine in post ---especially when using gfx100s or similar equipment
Very informative. Thank you very much!
What would you recommend for real estate photography?
Great video. It is very helpful and you may it easy to understand metering modes. Thank you.
what I really want is to set highlight point for one of the zones, to keep texture in highlights area - and same for keep details in shadows... give 2 points, and make sure it does it. this is zone system basically...
Best explanation I've seen! Thank you!
yes your approach was a game changer thanks
Greetings Mark. Many thanks for a very comprehensive and informative tutorial. I have found that Spot Metering (from any distance) is
the most accurate for use on my Floral Portraits. It appears to have quite a bit more flexibility than I had anticipated and certainly contributes to much more enhanced I.Q., than other systems I have used. Once again, many thanks for a great video.
Regards, Tony :))
It's important to note (and this may vary by brand or camera) when you use spot metering, generally it is slightly larger than the physical spot where your focus point is (this is the case at least on Nikons), and you find the "boundaries" of this spot is by doing the sme test you would have done for center-weighted but with spot metering, you'll notice the areas where the exposure settings change as you move the camera around say a light source, this will tell you where the boundaries of spot metering are in relation to the focus point. But for the most part, I think the focus point does cover the majority of the area metered but it can extend a bit beyond the focus point area.
Personally for me, and the what I shoot, I have found that I use spot metering probably 3/4 of the time, regardless of how I'm shooting so to speak, especially if I'm shooting for HDR has this helps me determine (1) if I need to do a multi-frame HDR, and (2) what is the brightest and darkest areas of the photos (what are the settings or shutter speed needed and this helps me set up in-camera bracketing). I have found that matrix metering is probably the least used and partially because of how and what I tend to shoot. It's provided the least reliable results for me. So I'd say for me, spot metering is my first choice most of the time, followed by center weighted maybe 1/4 of the time (and mainly for specific things like portraits like you mentioned).
Excellent! Thanks.
I am a highlight metering enjoyer. For general shooting I expose for the highlights and compensate +0.5 stops. Usually works great
I should try that +.5. I love the concept because it protects the highlights on people's faces but it's too dark most of the time. But then again, post processing generally pulls it all together.
Such a great explanation of this tricky topic!!!!
The BEST explanation I have seen to date. Thank you
Amazing to hear this - thank you!
Perfect explanation again, many thanks.
Happy to hear it!
I still use a D7100 and I (I’m assuming you can do it on newer cameras too) use the metering button combined with rear control dial to change modes.
I can’t imagine how anybody could be going into menus to do that but I guess you’re doing it that way so you can show it on a video? I change it frequently… not for ‘every’ shot but walking around on holiday or doing street stuff etc, I’ll change it for pretty much every location AND adjust the EV comp to suit with some thought to what the metering mode is going to do. Both of these things (on the D7100 at least) are instantly accessible with the dials and I’m pretty much adjusting these in my hands without looking at the camper before bringing the camera up to my eye to shoot. does it still look this way on modern Nikon cameras or do you have to use menus?
Great video! I used spot metering 90% of my shootings. The only time I use center metering is when I do group photo shooting or certain landscape shooting…
Great, clearly to understand video. Would you consider doing something similar on setting the ISO on mirrorless cameras?
When I first started out about 5 1/2 years ago, the advice I heard most often was to always use manual exposure settings. (Which I never agreed with for the most part - aperture priority works perfectly for the majority of the situations.). However, the frustrating thing was I never saw anyone explain _how_ to use manual exposure settings regardless of which metering mode you choose. It is just in the past few months that I finally bumped into a resource that explained, in detail, how to use manual exposure settings correctly. It has helped out a _ton_.
THANK YOU! that was a perfect way to explain meetering!!!! I so appreciate you
Let’s be clear, “back in the film days” we had ttl metering in the sixties. Sure, I carried a handheld light meter, but I didn’t use it a whole lot unless I had the view camera. Also, when you’re in a priority mode, the exposure compensation dial is just as important as the type of metering you’re doing. To use EC, you really have to understand how the meter chooses exposure. You kind of skipped past the neutral grey thing a little quickly. 😊. The black card on a white wall example still illustrates it very well. Anyway, I enjoyed the video. f/8, man!
Matrix metering mostly on my Nikon. But I have spot metering on a function button (hold down to switch to it) which is useful in hand-held mode for some subjects (like portraits).
Mark...really enjoyed this video and you seem an excellent teacher...Since we are on the topic of METERING I have had this question a long time. All you ever hear about these days is "eye-auto focus." How Sony Canon leads the way blah blah blah...guess they do BUT I presently shoot Nikon, also Fuji...and have a Leica q2. In any case I tend to stay on evaluative metering, BUT my question is: if I choose to use "Eye auto focus" it SEEMS to me at least on Nikon and Fuji, EYE is turning metering to SPOT, regardless of how I have metering set. Is that possible, or JUST auto raising your exposure? All I want is the eye in focus...don't want an exposure or metering change. Whatever EYE is doing I find it I will often end up with badly blown highlights though the SUBJECT may now be perfectly lit. Because of this, I am finding unless the light is VERY even, eye-auto is almost a negative as far as exposure overall is concerned...any thoughts on this?, again is it changing your metering to SPOT or just raising exposure...which lets the camera decide? If anyone may know...Thanks...and new subscriber here! :)
Great explanation and demonstration of metering modes. Thanks!
Thank you, THE Bob Ross of Photography 🙏🙌
So happy you switched to the Z8.
Same!
As your demo clearly shows, the center weighted does not always work, we could see it over-exposing sometimes... I always use Full Framing meetering because if something is on the frame, even just in one corner, it must be accounted for. This said, no option will save you from the need to compensate here and there, because it all depends on what you like as the end result. When light intensity is very contrasted there are no miracles... I only have one exception, Outdoor Portrait, where I can't trust the Histogram because the most important thing is to avoid editing Human skin so I go for spot meetring and later may need to edit the backgrounds... The full frame meetering is the less worst option because it averages the exposure as much as possible, leaving less to exit... Of course it all depends on the subject and the need or no need to hurry up... You can go old school and spot meter the highest and lowest light and than in manual you smack it right in the middle...
Very helpful for this rookie, thanks.
It seems that any metering mode can be appropriately used if you are aware of how your camera will expose the composition of every image differently depending on the relationship of highlights, shadows and points of interest. The metering mode on my camera is set at evaluative metering. Through years of practice with my camera and one specific metering I understand that a photograph of a person under a bright streetlight will underexpose what is med-gray and try to get detail in the streetlight. Through experience though one learns how to compensate the exposure.
Answering video, but you overlooked a huge number of details. I’ll give you a few examples: using spot meter in portrait, photography, more than likely is going to give you an incorrect exposure, the reason is because human beings are not the 18% gray that the spot meter is assuming. You have to compensate accordingly.
Then there’s also the factor of what matrix metering does. It does so much more than just evaluate the whole image. You might want to do a really deep dive on what matrix metering really is. You might need to go back and look at some articles that started to explore the concept back when the first powerful matrix meter in camera came on the scene: Nikon F5 with its 1005 point matrix metering.
In my 1970s FILM CAMERA I use whatever light meter setting BUILT INTO THE CAMERA is best for whatever subject I’m shooting.
Because for nearly all SLR history SLR cameras have had in built light meters.
I’ve never had to carry a separate device with me to take a light exposure on any film SLR because it’s rare to get one without a light meter.
And if by chance I never I’d use the right settings for the conditions to get a decent exposure.
The reason any film photographer used a separate device is the same reason digital photographers still use the same separate devices.
Mostly an understanding between the difference of incidental vs reflective light.
This was quite clear and easy to understand. Thank you! After I read the comments I was a bit confused. Watching again, not reading the comments. 😳
Nice rundown. Matrix mostly. Carry on. 👍🥂
When I first started learning DSLR my instructor at the time stressed to use spot metering. I used spot metering all the time but found I was spending a lot of time in post processing adjusting the photo's. One day about 2 years ago I saw a video on youtube to use matrix mode. I tried it out and it was like night and day. Since I do a lot of landscapes and car shows and hardly ever portraits, I found I still adjust but not as drastically as I did with spot metering. By the way. I hope someday you will have a video on how to shoot people or portraits because I am terrible at it.
Mark you needed to explain manual mode a bit more. If people didn't know of the various metering options they most likely would not know that the combination of speed and aperture is what one sets. The meter on the right says that to use the cameras choice of exposure you need to change one of the manual settings to achieve a mid point or use a combination of both. What you are seeing is a meter that is showing the shot EV and the combined EV of the speed and focus must match to use the camera recommendations or purposefully make it under exposed, over exposed, or selecting a longer or shorter shutter opening, or a bigger or lesser DOF using the meter recommendations as a guide, proving one cannot have a longer exposure and a shallower DOF at the same time unless the meter lets you. Though EV seems to be out of fashion nowadays its still true.
Also why do you need to go into the depths of the menus to change metering mode? Doesn't Nikon have a quick select control that gives the ability to change this and other image settings with just 1 or 2 button pushes. By the time you found the setting the opportunity has long gone. Olympus has a quick select display panel with all the usual variables on it for fast change and has done for eons or even assignable buttons, I can focus on the touch screen at any position. I have a button assigned to re center the focus afterwards easy.
Another great video mark. Have a lovely weekend.
Thanks, you too!
Thanks mark for explaining this, a lot of first time shooters don't know about this. They just use Auto.
This was very helpful actually for me. I usually have it on Matrix for EVERYTHING. Once in a while I'll use Center. Regardless, it's nice to really get a simplistic understanding of it all. Thank you!
Happy it helped!
thank you, the best explanation I've heard.
Outstanding video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trivia for people still using Nikon DSLRs and looking at histograms post-shot (AKA 'chimping'). If you zoom in and move the loupe around, the histogram will reflect the part of the shot that's visible. I mostly use it to see if I've blown something in particular out (e.g. bright colored flower) as if that channel is blown there's no way to get the actual color back.
No idea if all camera bodies do this, but it works on my D600, D750, and D850 (only ones I have on hand).
I always shoot in manual and adjust accordingly to the available light, aperture or ISO
Is what i usually change as my shutterspeed never changes it stays at 1/500 sec usually,
I sometimes use the auto exposure lock button.
I like the hands-on walkthrough approach. It could be useful for many similar topics. Good idea, and good presentation. Another photographic mystery cleared up. Thank you!
Thanks a million!
Thank you for this clear explanation, Mark! Super helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it!
best explanation ever ! Thanks
My little canon 200d doesn't work the spot metering by the focus point and just works from the centre, and centre weighted is just a bigger circle than spot and partial isn't much bigger than that again
Highligt are for when the highligth are the subject and you need details in the highligths. I use it often in the wood photography
An excellent explanation! btw-- as a Canon user I don't know whether that camera is a DSLR or mirrorless. Maybe that has been explained in the comments but I have a short attention span😁