I use evaluative mode. I shoot with a Canon EOS R and the evaluative metering is linked to the focus point, or the exposure is weighted to the focus point selected.
as someone who photographs moving objects with intense light sources- I live and die by spot/center weighted with full manual + auto ISO. having full control lockdown of shutter speed and depth of field/sharpness is essential and with spot/center I can let auto iso just pick what it needs and I get amazingly consistent results day and night. kudos for an excellent explanation of metering modes!
I finally get it! I’ve read many descriptions of the various metering modes and always come away confused about the differences. Seeing you demonstrate it in your camera’s Live View has taken all the mystery out of it. Thank you.
My favourite option would be the zebras if my camera had them (and especially if they were raw-based); sadly, it can only show them for video, not stills.
If you shoot outdoor portrait in a backlighted situation, when you get the perfect histogram the person may be really badly exposed and force you to edit the skin a lot, the histogram did not guess there was a person, it just balanced the exposure right for the massive light differences it found...
@@Zealor365When you shoot manual you use the -1 -0- +1 indicator to guide yourself, you are trusting the camera meeter, well guess what - when you use shutter or apperture priorities you can also trust your camera meetering, it does not measure subjects worse than when it is on manual, lol
To be honest, I set the majority of my exposures using the camera's histogram and seldom ever pay attention to the actual *meter* setting ( not to be confused with the metering mode, I use matrix 98% of the time). This has worked out well for *_my_* style of shooting. One great thing about photography is that there are so many ways to arrive at the same place. Find one that works for you and shoot away. Nice explanations, Mark.
One caution being to have the shutter speed appropriate for either hand-held (e.g. 1/focal length of lens used*any sensor factor) or tripod, depending on what's in use.
So I don’t mean to be a jerk, but I am an anal engineer so here goes: That histogram that you’re using exists because of… The light meter…. It’s simply mirroring the whole image to create the histogram. Just out of curiosity, how do you adjust your histogram? Do you shoot in Manuel mode all the time or do you use the exposure compensation dial to adjusted?
@@SamCarleton I, like you, am a very inquisitive person. I do not pay attention to the *meter* in terms of whether the image is under/over or "correctly" exposed. The histogram gives me a better sense of the tonal value I am about to capture as opposed to whether the entire image will be darker or lighter than the camera thinks it should be. I shoot in manual mode 90% of the time, not because it's _the_ way to do it, but because it's how I learned way back in the film days when cameras and lenses were manual and it is second nature to me. I'll sometimes shoot in aperture priority with exposure compensation but not very often. To each his own, right?
@@slowlyrusting4044 I, too, come from the film days of shooting chrome and using a spot meter for correct exposure. So I am totally with you! My only point is that the only way to get your histogram is by the light meter reading the scene to create it. so... technically you are using the light meter, just not in a classical way :P
Thanks for a great video. FYI, I use highlight metering when taking pictures of white birds, especially egrets. It is very easy for them to get blown out unless you compensate somehow.
Set spot metering > focus on subject > lock focus (back button focus) > move camera around to obtain the desired exposure for the subject > lock exposure by half press of shutter button > recompose and shoot
Was going to add just that point. Though I think with some cameras you have to tell it whether you want to back button (or half shutter press) lock both focus and exposure, or just focus. But yeah, I'd much rather do that than manually move my focus point around for every different composition.
Tried back button focus, then you give your camera to a person to take a photo of you and your wife and the focus doesn’t work and they don’t have a clue. Going back to half press and a back button for servo only and one for eye focus.
Liked the video! Sorry to say spot metering on my Canon 6D Mark II does not follow the focus point, the circle is in the center of the frame. I shoot in manual mode - mostly landscapes using evaluative metering, but for high contrast scenes I meter off the highlights/brightest area, adjust my exposure accordingly, recompose scene, then use the histogram exposing to the right until the highlights are almost clipped.
I'm finding that with modern cameras and sensors that are relatively ISO invariant, highlight priority meeting is very useful in tricky situations, centre weighted for more general use.
Just a small clarification. Matrix (or Evaluative as Canon calls it) is not just a simple averaging of the reading of the different segments of the matrix. To quote Nikon "The camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to tone distribution, color, composition, and distance for results close to those seen by the naked eye." In other words the camera applies a sophisticated algorithm to the readings in effect comparing it to similar lighting situations. This is not the same as full frame metering which simply measures the total amount of light reaching the frame. As such it is inherently prone to error and is now more or less obso0letealthough I think Sony still offer it as option on some models? It is true BTW that separate meters were a common feature of my early photographic career(starting in 1969!) but even by the early 1970s the vast majority of cameras had TTL or similar metering built in. I would say that getting to know how to use a hand held meter is a really good way of understanding light and exposure in many ways ( eg exposure equivalents etc) ands many would argue it's a great tool to understand the Zone System even if its practical necessity is long gone...
Exactly. "Evaluative" is very descriptive. The camera looks at a wide area and "evaluates". It is not center weighted averaging, which is a different mode altogether. Over the years evaluative or matrix metering has gotten better and better. In modern cameras, in all but the most complicated cases, it will generally get you very close to the proper exposure. In most cases you will need no more than one to two thirds of a stop of compensation one way or the other. Nowadays, we also have the histogram in the viewfinder (if we so choose). 98% of the time this allows for instant compensation (if needed) with one dial and a perfect exposure every time. Folks tend to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
Ever since 2000 when I got my first digital camera with a histogram I’ve used it and the highlight clipping warning with center weighed metering. When doing portraits with ambient, ambient + flash or just flash I always start with black and white towels draped over the edges of the gray card I use as a WB reference and for setting custom WB. The reality of exposure is that digital sensors can’t reproduce scenes “normally” per the baseline of our adaptive vision. In the majority of scenes, especially those with faces in them, maintaining separation between “Zone 9 - brightest solid white in scene = 245-254” and “Zone 10 - 3D shaped defining clues on white objects = 255” with some loss of shadow detail and darker than normal midtones is the best single exposure, ambient only strategy and the easiest way achieve it regardless of camera metering mode used is to increase exposure until the Zone 9 white objects in the scene are 1/3 stop below clipping and a photo of a white towel will retain the texture visually and have a 0-255 8-bit eyedropper value of between 245 and 254, reserving 255 clipping for the specular highlights in the actual file captured (RAW or JPG). Since the RAW files have more exposure ‘headroom’ than the JPGs used in the camera for playback you’ll need to compare RAW reading with appearance of clipping on the whites to fine tune exposure for the highlights. The way deal with loss of shadow detail detail and noise for static scenes is to shoot on a tripod and first expose highlights 1/3 under clipping then slow shutter by three EV / stops to create a second shadow exposure. Rather than using automated HDR and winding up with a ‘Sea of Sameness” that looks unnatural I open the both files separately then copy/paste the entire shadow exposure as a second layer over the highlight exposure. I than add a black filled mask (hold down opt/alt when clicking mask icon) the SELECTIVELY open the mask to add in the shadow detail, more around the focal point(s) I want the viewer to find and dwell on, creating a tonal / detail “on ramp” to the focal point similar to how our brains get “tunnel vision” and “tune out” what the more sensitive rod cells in the periphery are detecting. It’s a bit more work but the result is more organic and natural than AI produced HDR. The key to overcoming sensor range limitations with flash illuminated foregrounds is to always use the sun as back rim light and start, regardless of camera metering mode, by keeping the parts of the white towel ‘kissed’ by the sun 1/3 below clipping at the aperture desired for DOF, with shutter at max sync speed or below. Exposing for the sunny highlights on the white towel that will also expose all the highlights in the background below clipping but underexpose the front of the subject. The next thing I always do is pose the face(s) towards the dominant direction of the northern sky, lifting the subject’s chin as need to get light past the brow and into the eyes unless going for a brooding detached vibe. The first flash I add is the FILL I keep centered over the camera on a Stroboframe Camera-Rotating bracket, raising its power until detail is seen in my BLACK TOWEL exposure target. This is the step 99% of photographers today don’t understand the need for. I do because back in 1970 when I shot my first portraits with a pair of shop lights I followed the instructions in a Kodak “How To Make Portraits” which explained the rationale for using centered, shadowless as possible (from POV of lens fill). With a digital sensor any shadows produced by the fill will be noise filled voids, which are easily avoided by keeping a FILL flash above the lens when shooting with flash. The final step is placing the KEY flash. It can go anywhere but if the goal is to SEAMLESSLY marry the flash with the ambient it needs to hit the face on the same vector as the natural light modeling the face. Since skylight comes from such a steep angle, forcing subject to look up, positioning the KEY flash ideally to match the lower contrast ambient pattern will require a 10-12ft light stand to match the 3D modeling vector of the skylight. Key Flash power needs to be set 2/3 EV below clipping (1/3 stop below sun-kissed non-clipping whites) to preserve the ‘ambience’ of the back rim sun lighting. The final step is to raise the POV of the camera so the sensor is parallel / / with front plane of the face looking up to get light in the eyes. That will foreshorten the body and make the ground around the subject the background in the photo. How much the body is foreshortened is controlled via shooting distance and elevation. Higher and further away is better for multi-row group photos because it puts all the faces closer together relative to the camera and gets great light on the faces. If fill is on bracket over camera it moves with the camera and isn’t something that needs any conscious thought once power level is dialed via the black towel. It might seem complicated but all new things do the first time. Once you seen the difference in the results you’ll better understand why it works and it will become second nature. I’ve been shooting with flash that way for over 50 years after learning the technique working for lighting Zen Master Monte Zucker and am just trying to “pay forward” what he generously taught me.
Very handy feature for Sony users is face priority for metering. It is not a standalone metering option but complementary to matrix and thus a little hidden in the menues.
My Z8 is on matrix-metering, never looked in that any further until now. Your video helps really to rethink that, thank you. I often look at the histogram and change exposure with the +/- dail. I like to freeze my exposure when I am satisfied, using one on the function-buttons on the front of the camera that's dedicated for freezing/unfreezing the current exposure. So that I'm able to optimize the composition a bit, without worrying that the exposure changes automatically again as a result of the reframing of the composition.
Good explanation. The days of using a 1º spot meter and the zone system seem to have been taken over by the use of a histogram. I miss the days when photographers had to really know the more technical aspects of the craft. Hyperfocal focus, inverse square law......basics that not many know these days.
Thanks Mark this really does make things more clear about the different modes and where to use them. Time to get out and capture some fall colors, I appreciate you taking the time to show us.
Hi Mark, great video about meter modes. I mainly do landscape work and I've found that manual combined with spot metering mode gives me a lot more control. It can be a bit more labour intensive at times but I've found that with more practise I'm understanding my camera better.
Center weighted; Exposure Lock; recompose; shoot (focus on half press). Like we used to do with back button focus. (or fix the button to AF/AE lock on the back button)
Highlight metering is awesome at performances where the light changes very often and tends to be very contrasting. It makes it easy to prevent over exposing the performer's face that's getting all the light. I find it often looks similar to what the lighting designer intended with a bright subject with everything else falling off to deep shadows.
After light ,i think metering is the most important concept you must understand.As usual a wonderful video that will clear the metering.T'ons of thanks.MAY GOD BLESS YOU.
Excellent explanation! I never understood metering until now. Thank you!! By the way, I love your shirt. We've been to Ouray many times, and just love it.
Yep, I definitely fall into the Matrix Metering camp. I do vlogs, landscape, pics of my motorcycle, all the things... and Matrix gets me close enough. I went through the same exercise a few months ago with my Nikon Z30, and you're right - it's 100% understood once you try each of them out!
I like the hands-on walkthrough approach. It could be useful for many similar topics. Good idea, and good presentation. Another photographic mystery cleared up. Thank you!
I use highlight and matrix depending what I’m shooting. Highlight weighted is my main cause yes I do like my scenes dark. But I use my exposure composition to balance it out
Greetings Mark. Many thanks for a very comprehensive and informative tutorial. I have found that Spot Metering (from any distance) is the most accurate for use on my Floral Portraits. It appears to have quite a bit more flexibility than I had anticipated and certainly contributes to much more enhanced I.Q., than other systems I have used. Once again, many thanks for a great video. Regards, Tony :))
This was very helpful actually for me. I usually have it on Matrix for EVERYTHING. Once in a while I'll use Center. Regardless, it's nice to really get a simplistic understanding of it all. Thank you!
This was definitely helpful, as are most of your weekly videos. Thank you very much for another great video. As another viewer mentioned, I also tend to use and "watch" what the histogram is doing, in terms of exposure. But, the metering explanation is extremely helpful and does clear up some confusion I had. I also tend to use matrix metering for a majority of my photos.
Ciao Mark and respect for your videos 👍 Still, as a lifelong Nikon shooter, and you are obviously having a Z camera on your desk, here some facts. You didn't mention a powerful and variable setting with Nikon cameras and that is the Auto D lighting. Of course, that option is available in the Nikom software if you shoot RAW or, in Nikon's case NEF files. Using that option in your Nikon camera is essential in case of mirrorless cameras as it gives you a chance to manipulate the matrix and other types of metering by seeing it on your screen or through the viewfinder. Secondly, the most precise light metering for portraits is still the spot metering. Spot meter on the forehead of your model, lock the exposure and you are in control. And, of course there is a back button focussing method which gives us even more control possibilities over the exposure and how to manage it already in the camera. Hope you agree with me, I am speaking from some decades of experience 😂 Keep up the good work 👍
I like spot metering for manual shooting. I'll point my camera around the scene and evaluate the exposure of my highlights and shadows, then set my exposure so that I'm protecting both of those as best possible for the situation. Of course I shoot raw and then adjust my final exposure in post.
Ok, well that explains it. I was using highlighted metering on my camera when taking photos outside at a harbor last week. All the photos came out darker than normal and I had to correct (sometimes significantly) in Lightroom. Really confusing because it was sunny outside. I just switched to center-weighted metering - hopefully my photos will be brighter next time I'm out taking photos. Thanks.
BRAVO Mark fine explanation! I know what you mean about finding a way to make the subject understandable! I've tried explaining metering as it pertains to digital cameras and the options available. I inevitably end up going further into the subject of light and dynamic range than that person would wish to or be able to fully understand. If they haven't cried out in frustration and stopped me, the explanation enters the hour mark and we're beginning to see eyes glazing over and minds disconnecting because I'm now beginning the long explanation of "The Zone System" albeit Minor White's more simplified version still puts most to sleep. I use the Zone System more now in my head when deciding how I want to expose for a certain scene, however given the magic of digital post processing that entails exposure stacking/blending, the implementation Zone System fundamentals is handled far differently than in my 30+ years of film shooting, from large format to 35mm. I'm one of the few who ALWAYS developed my own film and made my own prints with the exception of color which in the old days was quite expensive and much more difficult for those of us who rarely used color. In film you had that one chance to properly expose for a negative that you could depend on for producing the final print you pre-visualized before even thinking about attaching the film sleeve to the back of your camera. There was a very narrow margin for proper exposures and although you could salvage a passable print from a pretty awful negative with a lot of work and paper grade choices, dodging and burning, stopping down or opening up the aperture of the enlarger, it wasn't at all an optimal situation, and you'd consider the negative to be virtually a total loss. I'm fully invested in digital today, and I work more freely knowing that I have a far more sophisticated post-processing element that allows me much leeway in my creativity. After ALL this Mark, really great explanation of metering settings and their usefulness in different situations.
Spot metering, on any part of the scene is going to try to made it middle gray. Then everything that's a different shade is either going to be over or under exposed. That's why the zone system was developed, to adjust the exposure away from middle gray to where you want the metered area to appear.
I was fully on manual exposure while shooting film (single point metering was my most used built in camera metering equipment beside measuring the light intensity with a separate device). Years ago I changed to matrix metering with me controlling the exposure offset due to my artificial intentions. I will never again switch to another metering method with a digital camera (if in a very special case I would opt metering the light with the external device). The aperture is set by myself in 99.9% of all shots, today in most cases I let the camera select the exposure time and ISO (but I set the limits according to my interests). Histograms and test shot reviews are your friend today.
I tried the Highlight Metering for the first time only throughout the week. Photographing 'Willy WagTail Nesting' Had a strong side light in the background for part of the image and seems to have balanced it out beautifully. Generally though I do use centre weighted
I was just experimenting with this yesterday. I tried spot mode for a dragonfly hovering over a black pond. It worked pretty well, save for the light being on the wrong side of the scene to get that nice backlight through its wings.
regardless of mode (which is only as assistant), most important is to understand that digital cameras measure for mid-grey (zone 5 on scale of 11). But there are many very bright objects like sky that are not in the 5th zone, but rather 7th to 9th (which means camera set to measure for sky, will underexpose the rest of the scene by 2-4 stops!), and many very dark objects like shadows or heavy forest that are in zone 2-3 (which means camera set to measure for shadow, will overexpose the rest of the scene by 2-3 stops). Objects that belong to zone5 are human skin, light buildings, open landscapes etc... There are many good videos on yt explaining that concept...
I should try that +.5. I love the concept because it protects the highlights on people's faces but it's too dark most of the time. But then again, post processing generally pulls it all together.
Great video! I used spot metering 90% of my shootings. The only time I use center metering is when I do group photo shooting or certain landscape shooting…
Great general explanation of metering, Mark. I shoot on Canon mirrorless and the spot metering is, unfortunately, tied to the center spot ONLY. Even if you move the focus point, your metering is done at the center spot. Obviously this can be overcome by pointing the center spot at your subject and then recomposing. I just wanted to make you aware that spot metering doesn't work that way on all brands. Don't quote me, but I believe the only Canon digital bodies that allowed moving "the spot" were the 1DX series.
@@Mr_Glenn Understood. It isn't a matter of having "issues" with it. It's knowing how the system works and how to work around the immovable spot metering area. I was simply pointing out that the Canon mirrorless cameras don't offer a moveable spot metering area like the camera Mark was demonstrating on.
Mark...really enjoyed this video and you seem an excellent teacher...Since we are on the topic of METERING I have had this question a long time. All you ever hear about these days is "eye-auto focus." How Sony Canon leads the way blah blah blah...guess they do BUT I presently shoot Nikon, also Fuji...and have a Leica q2. In any case I tend to stay on evaluative metering, BUT my question is: if I choose to use "Eye auto focus" it SEEMS to me at least on Nikon and Fuji, EYE is turning metering to SPOT, regardless of how I have metering set. Is that possible, or JUST auto raising your exposure? All I want is the eye in focus...don't want an exposure or metering change. Whatever EYE is doing I find it I will often end up with badly blown highlights though the SUBJECT may now be perfectly lit. Because of this, I am finding unless the light is VERY even, eye-auto is almost a negative as far as exposure overall is concerned...any thoughts on this?, again is it changing your metering to SPOT or just raising exposure...which lets the camera decide? If anyone may know...Thanks...and new subscriber here! :)
I have highlight metering assigned to an Fn key in my landscape user mode for a quick check on the highlights on my Z7. This is a manual mode, so I don’t necessarily shoot in that metering mode, but it gives me a better idea of when to bracket. Often it comes up with a slight enough adjustment for a single exposure. I found it especially useful during sunrise when the light changes fast.
Mostly matrix, occasionally spot. I also never have a reason to use highlight weighted. When Nikon introduced this I seem to recall they were suggesting stage lighting as an example of when this would be helpful. Maybe it is.
When I shoot live music, I always use highlight weighted. It really helps in keeping bright led stage lights from blowing out the subject's skin. Also, where it is a spot metering and I frame my subjects all over the frame, it keeps everything in check and looking good.
Interesting. My Canon cameras have a different mode, which I use pretty much all the time - "evaluative metering". The way it was explained to me, it's basically spot metering with some center weighted added in. If I'm shooting fast travel shots with little or no warning, which I often do, I'll just set exposure compensation at -2/3 stop to help protect highlights and not worry unless I've got a particularly high or low key image, in which case, I'll dial it in with exposure compensation. If I have any doubt, or the time, I'll throw a histogram up on the screen or EVF - I can toggle it quickly on both my bodies. Of course, I can meter manually, or spot meter if necessary, but I find that there are so many good ways to approach the problem that I can make pretty much anything work (my favorite SLR has only spot metering, FWIW).
Thanks for the clear and informative video, Mark. Just an FYI, the TH-cam link image for this video labels it as “This metering mode is ruining your EXPOSURE!” I may have missed it, but I didn’t see that in the video, thought I’d be interested in learning that! Thanks again!
When I first started out about 5 1/2 years ago, the advice I heard most often was to always use manual exposure settings. (Which I never agreed with for the most part - aperture priority works perfectly for the majority of the situations.). However, the frustrating thing was I never saw anyone explain _how_ to use manual exposure settings regardless of which metering mode you choose. It is just in the past few months that I finally bumped into a resource that explained, in detail, how to use manual exposure settings correctly. It has helped out a _ton_.
Such a clarifying explanation! Best video on this topic I've seen in years! Many thanks,Mark P.S.: Loved the aerial footage of Lençóis Maranhenses in Brazil! Greets from Brazi!
what I really want is to set highlight point for one of the zones, to keep texture in highlights area - and same for keep details in shadows... give 2 points, and make sure it does it. this is zone system basically...
Trivia for people still using Nikon DSLRs and looking at histograms post-shot (AKA 'chimping'). If you zoom in and move the loupe around, the histogram will reflect the part of the shot that's visible. I mostly use it to see if I've blown something in particular out (e.g. bright colored flower) as if that channel is blown there's no way to get the actual color back. No idea if all camera bodies do this, but it works on my D600, D750, and D850 (only ones I have on hand).
Let’s be clear, “back in the film days” we had ttl metering in the sixties. Sure, I carried a handheld light meter, but I didn’t use it a whole lot unless I had the view camera. Also, when you’re in a priority mode, the exposure compensation dial is just as important as the type of metering you’re doing. To use EC, you really have to understand how the meter chooses exposure. You kind of skipped past the neutral grey thing a little quickly. 😊. The black card on a white wall example still illustrates it very well. Anyway, I enjoyed the video. f/8, man!
Matrix metering mostly on my Nikon. But I have spot metering on a function button (hold down to switch to it) which is useful in hand-held mode for some subjects (like portraits).
Thanks so much for this video! I love how well you explain things. I was always confused by metering modes and this helps so much. I do a lot of moon landscape photography. Do you think the spot metering mode will be helpful if I'm shooting a full moon rising at sunset?
If you move the focus/light marker in spot, and assuming aperture mode, then -- you can choose anywhere in your photo in order to change brightness.-- you can refine in post ---especially when using gfx100s or similar equipment
I was born in the 1960s and I can testify that I literally stayed away from photography because I hated metering. I watched people do it, I shook my head and used point and shoot cameras, and when digital cameras came about, I jumped on them! I love the metering options with digital.
I found this video to give a lot of information that was beneficial. Mark presents a clear, concise, straightforward presentation of the subject without random chatter.
An excellent explanation! btw-- as a Canon user I don't know whether that camera is a DSLR or mirrorless. Maybe that has been explained in the comments but I have a short attention span😁
It's important to note (and this may vary by brand or camera) when you use spot metering, generally it is slightly larger than the physical spot where your focus point is (this is the case at least on Nikons), and you find the "boundaries" of this spot is by doing the sme test you would have done for center-weighted but with spot metering, you'll notice the areas where the exposure settings change as you move the camera around say a light source, this will tell you where the boundaries of spot metering are in relation to the focus point. But for the most part, I think the focus point does cover the majority of the area metered but it can extend a bit beyond the focus point area. Personally for me, and the what I shoot, I have found that I use spot metering probably 3/4 of the time, regardless of how I'm shooting so to speak, especially if I'm shooting for HDR has this helps me determine (1) if I need to do a multi-frame HDR, and (2) what is the brightest and darkest areas of the photos (what are the settings or shutter speed needed and this helps me set up in-camera bracketing). I have found that matrix metering is probably the least used and partially because of how and what I tend to shoot. It's provided the least reliable results for me. So I'd say for me, spot metering is my first choice most of the time, followed by center weighted maybe 1/4 of the time (and mainly for specific things like portraits like you mentioned).
Answering video, but you overlooked a huge number of details. I’ll give you a few examples: using spot meter in portrait, photography, more than likely is going to give you an incorrect exposure, the reason is because human beings are not the 18% gray that the spot meter is assuming. You have to compensate accordingly. Then there’s also the factor of what matrix metering does. It does so much more than just evaluate the whole image. You might want to do a really deep dive on what matrix metering really is. You might need to go back and look at some articles that started to explore the concept back when the first powerful matrix meter in camera came on the scene: Nikon F5 with its 1005 point matrix metering.
In my 1970s FILM CAMERA I use whatever light meter setting BUILT INTO THE CAMERA is best for whatever subject I’m shooting. Because for nearly all SLR history SLR cameras have had in built light meters. I’ve never had to carry a separate device with me to take a light exposure on any film SLR because it’s rare to get one without a light meter. And if by chance I never I’d use the right settings for the conditions to get a decent exposure. The reason any film photographer used a separate device is the same reason digital photographers still use the same separate devices. Mostly an understanding between the difference of incidental vs reflective light.
When I first started learning DSLR my instructor at the time stressed to use spot metering. I used spot metering all the time but found I was spending a lot of time in post processing adjusting the photo's. One day about 2 years ago I saw a video on youtube to use matrix mode. I tried it out and it was like night and day. Since I do a lot of landscapes and car shows and hardly ever portraits, I found I still adjust but not as drastically as I did with spot metering. By the way. I hope someday you will have a video on how to shoot people or portraits because I am terrible at it.
thanks for the video. real estate photography, in the sense you are speaking about, is similar to landscape,--the whole scene is important. would you favor one method of metering in manual mode for hdr real estate photography?
If your scene is evenly illuminated, the mode is not important. But as soon as you have high contrast or do high key / low key photography, you certainly do not want the camera to decide the exposure but take things in your own hand. And in that moment, it is only a question of taste whether you choose spot metering, exposure compensation or fully manual (with view finder).
Hi thank you for your video. It was very easy to understand. I’m learning and I shoot in manual. Does this mean that none of those metering modes matters to me? It doesn’t matter what I have it on?
Honestly, even after two viewings of this presentation I’m convinced that it’s either magic or blind luck that people get a decent exposure. I do subscribe to the practical experience method of learning so I applaud your suggestion that people might find that useful. But don’t worry about me. I started with a manual camera and a sheet of suggestions based on something called the sunny sixteen rule. The only automation was a self timer for the shutter; there was NO light meter. You left a question so I’ll end with my answer: I use the metering mode that experience indicates is the correct choice for the situation. After all it’s just luck or magic!
Thanks as always. In the film days I loved my Canon T 90 with multiple spot metering which averaged them. Question - when shooting a moving subject which if any of the metering modes would "follow" along with the focus on the subject.
💥QUICK QUESTION: Which Metering Mode do You Use most often?
I use evaluative mode. I shoot with a Canon EOS R and the evaluative metering is linked to the focus point, or the exposure is weighted to the focus point selected.
I've always used Matrix metering.
Matrix
Almost always matrix metering.
Evaluative on my R6
as someone who photographs moving objects with intense light sources- I live and die by spot/center weighted with full manual + auto ISO. having full control lockdown of shutter speed and depth of field/sharpness is essential and with spot/center I can let auto iso just pick what it needs and I get amazingly consistent results day and night. kudos for an excellent explanation of metering modes!
I finally get it! I’ve read many descriptions of the various metering modes and always come away confused about the differences. Seeing you demonstrate it in your camera’s Live View has taken all the mystery out of it. Thank you.
This is why manual mode + histogram has always been my preferred approach. I do the 'priorty' in my head.
I agree the histogram is very important tool a lot of people don't understand or use.
I've been shooting manually for years using the in camera Hist. For landscapes, Matrix Metering is the most accurate.
My favourite option would be the zebras if my camera had them (and especially if they were raw-based); sadly, it can only show them for video, not stills.
If you shoot outdoor portrait in a backlighted situation, when you get the perfect histogram the person may be really badly exposed and force you to edit the skin a lot, the histogram did not guess there was a person, it just balanced the exposure right for the massive light differences it found...
@@Zealor365When you shoot manual you use the -1 -0- +1 indicator to guide yourself, you are trusting the camera meeter, well guess what - when you use shutter or apperture priorities you can also trust your camera meetering, it does not measure subjects worse than when it is on manual, lol
To be honest, I set the majority of my exposures using the camera's histogram and seldom ever pay attention to the actual *meter* setting ( not to be confused with the metering mode, I use matrix 98% of the time). This has worked out well for *_my_* style of shooting. One great thing about photography is that there are so many ways to arrive at the same place. Find one that works for you and shoot away. Nice explanations, Mark.
Exactly, this is what makes photography and videography exciting, every person can have their unique style.
One caution being to have the shutter speed appropriate for either hand-held (e.g. 1/focal length of lens used*any sensor factor) or tripod, depending on what's in use.
So I don’t mean to be a jerk, but I am an anal engineer so here goes:
That histogram that you’re using exists because of… The light meter…. It’s simply mirroring the whole image to create the histogram.
Just out of curiosity, how do you adjust your histogram? Do you shoot in Manuel mode all the time or do you use the exposure compensation dial to adjusted?
@@SamCarleton I, like you, am a very inquisitive person. I do not pay attention to the *meter* in terms of whether the image is under/over or "correctly" exposed. The histogram gives me a better sense of the tonal value I am about to capture as opposed to whether the entire image will be darker or lighter than the camera thinks it should be. I shoot in manual mode 90% of the time, not because it's _the_ way to do it, but because it's how I learned way back in the film days when cameras and lenses were manual and it is second nature to me. I'll sometimes shoot in aperture priority with exposure compensation but not very often. To each his own, right?
@@slowlyrusting4044 I, too, come from the film days of shooting chrome and using a spot meter for correct exposure. So I am totally with you!
My only point is that the only way to get your histogram is by the light meter reading the scene to create it. so... technically you are using the light meter, just not in a classical way :P
You did a good job of explaining the metering issue. Using the camera itself to illustrate is a good way to do it.
Thanks Ron!
Thanks for a great video. FYI, I use highlight metering when taking pictures of white birds, especially egrets. It is very easy for them to get blown out unless you compensate somehow.
Same with the moon
Set spot metering > focus on subject > lock focus (back button focus) > move camera around to obtain the desired exposure for the subject > lock exposure by half press of shutter button > recompose and shoot
Was going to add just that point. Though I think with some cameras you have to tell it whether you want to back button (or half shutter press) lock both focus and exposure, or just focus. But yeah, I'd much rather do that than manually move my focus point around for every different composition.
Oops! Too late! The bird I was trying to photograph is in the next county!
Tried back button focus, then you give your camera to a person to take a photo of you and your wife and the focus doesn’t work and they don’t have a clue. Going back to half press and a back button for servo only and one for eye focus.
@@alansach8437 Just because a certain technique is not useful for some kinds of photography doesn't mean it's not useful.
@@joekidd8 Can't speak for every camera, but at least on my Nikon you can have both at once -- half-press and back-button.
You are such a great teacher. Very clear explanations and I love the hands on approach.
Thanks so much!
Liked the video! Sorry to say spot metering on my Canon 6D Mark II does not follow the focus point, the circle is in the center of the frame. I shoot in manual mode - mostly landscapes using evaluative metering, but for high contrast scenes I meter off the highlights/brightest area, adjust my exposure accordingly, recompose scene, then use the histogram exposing to the right until the highlights are almost clipped.
I'm finding that with modern cameras and sensors that are relatively ISO invariant, highlight priority meeting is very useful in tricky situations, centre weighted for more general use.
Just a small clarification. Matrix (or Evaluative as Canon calls it) is not just a simple averaging of the reading of the different segments of the matrix. To quote Nikon "The camera meters a wide area of the frame and sets exposure according to tone distribution, color, composition, and distance for results close to those seen by the naked eye."
In other words the camera applies a sophisticated algorithm to the readings in effect comparing it to similar lighting situations.
This is not the same as full frame metering which simply measures the total amount of light reaching the frame. As such it is inherently prone to error and is now more or less obso0letealthough I think Sony still offer it as option on some models?
It is true BTW that separate meters were a common feature of my early photographic career(starting in 1969!) but even by the early 1970s the vast majority of cameras had TTL or similar metering built in. I would say that getting to know how to use a hand held meter is a really good way of understanding light and exposure in many ways ( eg exposure equivalents etc) ands many would argue it's a great tool to understand the Zone System even if its practical necessity is long gone...
Exactly. "Evaluative" is very descriptive. The camera looks at a wide area and "evaluates". It is not center weighted averaging, which is a different mode altogether. Over the years evaluative or matrix metering has gotten better and better. In modern cameras, in all but the most complicated cases, it will generally get you very close to the proper exposure. In most cases you will need no more than one to two thirds of a stop of compensation one way or the other. Nowadays, we also have the histogram in the viewfinder (if we so choose). 98% of the time this allows for instant compensation (if needed) with one dial and a perfect exposure every time. Folks tend to make it more complicated than it needs to be.
Ever since 2000 when I got my first digital camera with a histogram I’ve used it and the highlight clipping warning with center weighed metering. When doing portraits with ambient, ambient + flash or just flash I always start with black and white towels draped over the edges of the gray card I use as a WB reference and for setting custom WB.
The reality of exposure is that digital sensors can’t reproduce scenes “normally” per the baseline of our adaptive vision. In the majority of scenes, especially those with faces in them, maintaining separation between “Zone 9 - brightest solid white in scene = 245-254” and “Zone 10 - 3D shaped defining clues on white objects = 255” with some loss of shadow detail and darker than normal midtones is the best single exposure, ambient only strategy and the easiest way achieve it regardless of camera metering mode used is to increase exposure until the Zone 9 white objects in the scene are 1/3 stop below clipping and a photo of a white towel will retain the texture visually and have a 0-255 8-bit eyedropper value of between 245 and 254, reserving 255 clipping for the specular highlights in the actual file captured (RAW or JPG). Since the RAW files have more exposure ‘headroom’ than the JPGs used in the camera for playback you’ll need to compare RAW reading with appearance of clipping on the whites to fine tune exposure for the highlights.
The way deal with loss of shadow detail detail and noise for static scenes is to shoot on a tripod and first expose highlights 1/3 under clipping then slow shutter by three EV / stops to create a second shadow exposure. Rather than using automated HDR and winding up with a ‘Sea of Sameness” that looks unnatural I open the both files separately then copy/paste the entire shadow exposure as a second layer over the highlight exposure. I than add a black filled mask (hold down opt/alt when clicking mask icon) the SELECTIVELY open the mask to add in the shadow detail, more around the focal point(s) I want the viewer to find and dwell on, creating a tonal / detail “on ramp” to the focal point similar to how our brains get “tunnel vision” and “tune out” what the more sensitive rod cells in the periphery are detecting. It’s a bit more work but the result is more organic and natural than AI produced HDR.
The key to overcoming sensor range limitations with flash illuminated foregrounds is to always use the sun as back rim light and start, regardless of camera metering mode, by keeping the parts of the white towel ‘kissed’ by the sun 1/3 below clipping at the aperture desired for DOF, with shutter at max sync speed or below.
Exposing for the sunny highlights on the white towel that will also expose all the highlights in the background below clipping but underexpose the front of the subject.
The next thing I always do is pose the face(s) towards the dominant direction of the northern sky, lifting the subject’s chin as need to get light past the brow and into the eyes unless going for a brooding detached vibe.
The first flash I add is the FILL I keep centered over the camera on a Stroboframe Camera-Rotating bracket, raising its power until detail is seen in my BLACK TOWEL exposure target. This is the step 99% of photographers today don’t understand the need for. I do because back in 1970 when I shot my first portraits with a pair of shop lights I followed the instructions in a Kodak “How To Make Portraits” which explained the rationale for using centered, shadowless as possible (from POV of lens fill). With a digital sensor any shadows produced by the fill will be noise filled voids, which are easily avoided by keeping a FILL flash above the lens when shooting with flash.
The final step is placing the KEY flash. It can go anywhere but if the goal is to SEAMLESSLY marry the flash with the ambient it needs to hit the face on the same vector as the natural light modeling the face. Since skylight comes from such a steep angle, forcing subject to look up, positioning the KEY flash ideally to match the lower contrast ambient pattern will require a 10-12ft light stand to match the 3D modeling vector of the skylight. Key Flash power needs to be set 2/3 EV below clipping (1/3 stop below sun-kissed non-clipping whites) to preserve the ‘ambience’ of the back rim sun lighting.
The final step is to raise the POV of the camera so the sensor is parallel / / with front plane of the face looking up to get light in the eyes. That will foreshorten the body and make the ground around the subject the background in the photo. How much the body is foreshortened is controlled via shooting distance and elevation. Higher and further away is better for multi-row group photos because it puts all the faces closer together relative to the camera and gets great light on the faces.
If fill is on bracket over camera it moves with the camera and isn’t something that needs any conscious thought once power level is dialed via the black towel. It might seem complicated but all new things do the first time. Once you seen the difference in the results you’ll better understand why it works and it will become second nature.
I’ve been shooting with flash that way for over 50 years after learning the technique working for lighting Zen Master Monte Zucker and am just trying to “pay forward” what he generously taught me.
holy geez lol
Very handy feature for Sony users is face priority for metering. It is not a standalone metering option but complementary to matrix and thus a little hidden in the menues.
Where is this setting? Is it on a7iv or only the newest cameras?
@spencerfr1 I also have an A7 IV, it should be under: MENU → Exposure/Color → Metering → Face Priority in Multi Metering
@spencerfr1 My A7 IV has it. It should be in MENU → (Exposure/Color) → [Metering] → [Face Priority in Multi Metering].
This is one of the best videos for explaining the Metering Mode. Thank you!
Amazing - thank you!
My Z8 is on matrix-metering, never looked in that any further until now. Your video helps really to rethink that, thank you. I often look at the histogram and change exposure with the +/- dail. I like to freeze my exposure when I am satisfied, using one on the function-buttons on the front of the camera that's dedicated for freezing/unfreezing the current exposure. So that I'm able to optimize the composition a bit, without worrying that the exposure changes automatically again as a result of the reframing of the composition.
Good explanation. The days of using a 1º spot meter and the zone system seem to have been taken over by the use of a histogram. I miss the days when photographers had to really know the more technical aspects of the craft. Hyperfocal focus, inverse square law......basics that not many know these days.
Thanks Mark this really does make things more clear about the different modes and where to use them. Time to get out and capture some fall colors, I appreciate you taking the time to show us.
Glad it was helpful!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Your videos are always useful, being retired now they motivate me to get off my butt and try new things.
Hi Mark, great video about meter modes. I mainly do landscape work and I've found that manual combined with spot metering mode gives me a lot more control. It can be a bit more labour intensive at times but I've found that with more practise I'm understanding my camera better.
Center weighted; Exposure Lock; recompose; shoot (focus on half press). Like we used to do with back button focus. (or fix the button to AF/AE lock on the back button)
Highlight metering is awesome at performances where the light changes very often and tends to be very contrasting. It makes it easy to prevent over exposing the performer's face that's getting all the light. I find it often looks similar to what the lighting designer intended with a bright subject with everything else falling off to deep shadows.
After light ,i think metering is the most important concept you must understand.As usual a wonderful video that will clear the metering.T'ons of thanks.MAY GOD BLESS YOU.
Matrix metering is working great for me. Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience. ❤❤❤
Excellent explanation! I never understood metering until now. Thank you!! By the way, I love your shirt. We've been to Ouray many times, and just love it.
Thx for clarifying those, very useful and informative.
Yep, I definitely fall into the Matrix Metering camp. I do vlogs, landscape, pics of my motorcycle, all the things... and Matrix gets me close enough. I went through the same exercise a few months ago with my Nikon Z30, and you're right - it's 100% understood once you try each of them out!
This was quite clear and easy to understand. Thank you! After I read the comments I was a bit confused. Watching again, not reading the comments. 😳
I like the hands-on walkthrough approach. It could be useful for many similar topics. Good idea, and good presentation. Another photographic mystery cleared up. Thank you!
Thanks a million!
I use highlight and matrix depending what I’m shooting. Highlight weighted is my main cause yes I do like my scenes dark. But I use my exposure composition to balance it out
Greetings Mark. Many thanks for a very comprehensive and informative tutorial. I have found that Spot Metering (from any distance) is
the most accurate for use on my Floral Portraits. It appears to have quite a bit more flexibility than I had anticipated and certainly contributes to much more enhanced I.Q., than other systems I have used. Once again, many thanks for a great video.
Regards, Tony :))
This was very helpful actually for me. I usually have it on Matrix for EVERYTHING. Once in a while I'll use Center. Regardless, it's nice to really get a simplistic understanding of it all. Thank you!
Happy it helped!
This was definitely helpful, as are most of your weekly videos. Thank you very much for another great video. As another viewer mentioned, I also tend to use and "watch" what the histogram is doing, in terms of exposure. But, the metering explanation is extremely helpful and does clear up some confusion I had. I also tend to use matrix metering for a majority of my photos.
Glad to hear it was helpful Anthony!
Ciao Mark and respect for your videos 👍 Still, as a lifelong Nikon shooter, and you are obviously having a Z camera on your desk, here some facts. You didn't mention a powerful and variable setting with Nikon cameras and that is the Auto D lighting. Of course, that option is available in the Nikom software if you shoot RAW or, in Nikon's case NEF files. Using that option in your Nikon camera is essential in case of mirrorless cameras as it gives you a chance to manipulate the matrix and other types of metering by seeing it on your screen or through the viewfinder. Secondly, the most precise light metering for portraits is still the spot metering. Spot meter on the forehead of your model, lock the exposure and you are in control. And, of course there is a back button focussing method which gives us even more control possibilities over the exposure and how to manage it already in the camera. Hope you agree with me, I am speaking from some decades of experience 😂 Keep up the good work 👍
Great video. It is very helpful and you may it easy to understand metering modes. Thank you.
Great explanation and demonstration of metering modes. Thanks!
I like spot metering for manual shooting. I'll point my camera around the scene and evaluate the exposure of my highlights and shadows, then set my exposure so that I'm protecting both of those as best possible for the situation. Of course I shoot raw and then adjust my final exposure in post.
Ok, well that explains it. I was using highlighted metering on my camera when taking photos outside at a harbor last week. All the photos came out darker than normal and I had to correct (sometimes significantly) in Lightroom. Really confusing because it was sunny outside. I just switched to center-weighted metering - hopefully my photos will be brighter next time I'm out taking photos. Thanks.
THANK YOU! that was a perfect way to explain meetering!!!! I so appreciate you
The BEST explanation I have seen to date. Thank you
Amazing to hear this - thank you!
BRAVO Mark fine explanation! I know what you mean about finding a way to make the subject understandable! I've tried explaining metering as it pertains to digital cameras and the options available. I inevitably end up going further into the subject of light and dynamic range than that person would wish to or be able to fully understand. If they haven't cried out in frustration and stopped me, the explanation enters the hour mark and we're beginning to see eyes glazing over and minds disconnecting because I'm now beginning the long explanation of "The Zone System" albeit Minor White's more simplified version still puts most to sleep. I use the Zone System more now in my head when deciding how I want to expose for a certain scene, however given the magic of digital post processing that entails exposure stacking/blending, the implementation Zone System fundamentals is handled far differently than in my 30+ years of film shooting, from large format to 35mm. I'm one of the few who ALWAYS developed my own film and made my own prints with the exception of color which in the old days was quite expensive and much more difficult for those of us who rarely used color. In film you had that one chance to properly expose for a negative that you could depend on for producing the final print you pre-visualized before even thinking about attaching the film sleeve to the back of your camera. There was a very narrow margin for proper exposures and although you could salvage a passable print from a pretty awful negative with a lot of work and paper grade choices, dodging and burning, stopping down or opening up the aperture of the enlarger, it wasn't at all an optimal situation, and you'd consider the negative to be virtually a total loss.
I'm fully invested in digital today, and I work more freely knowing that I have a far more sophisticated post-processing element that allows me much leeway in my creativity. After ALL this Mark, really great explanation of metering settings and their usefulness in different situations.
Spot metering, on any part of the scene is going to try to made it middle gray. Then everything that's a different shade is either going to be over or under exposed. That's why the zone system was developed, to adjust the exposure away from middle gray to where you want the metered area to appear.
Perfect explanation again, many thanks.
Happy to hear it!
Best explanation I've seen! Thank you!
I was fully on manual exposure while shooting film (single point metering was my most used built in camera metering equipment beside measuring the light intensity with a separate device).
Years ago I changed to matrix metering with me controlling the exposure offset due to my artificial intentions. I will never again switch to another metering method with a digital camera (if in a very special case I would opt metering the light with the external device).
The aperture is set by myself in 99.9% of all shots, today in most cases I let the camera select the exposure time and ISO (but I set the limits according to my interests).
Histograms and test shot reviews are your friend today.
I have mine set on Matrix in my Nikon's from day one, honestly it's the most useful for me and one less thing I have to think about.
Also for me with my Fuji XT3.
yes your approach was a game changer thanks
Such a great explanation of this tricky topic!!!!
I tried the Highlight Metering for the first time only throughout the week. Photographing 'Willy WagTail Nesting' Had a strong side light in the background for part of the image and seems to have balanced it out beautifully. Generally though I do use centre weighted
I was just experimenting with this yesterday. I tried spot mode for a dragonfly hovering over a black pond. It worked pretty well, save for the light being on the wrong side of the scene to get that nice backlight through its wings.
regardless of mode (which is only as assistant), most important is to understand that digital cameras measure for mid-grey (zone 5 on scale of 11). But there are many very bright objects like sky that are not in the 5th zone, but rather 7th to 9th (which means camera set to measure for sky, will underexpose the rest of the scene by 2-4 stops!), and many very dark objects like shadows or heavy forest that are in zone 2-3 (which means camera set to measure for shadow, will overexpose the rest of the scene by 2-3 stops).
Objects that belong to zone5 are human skin, light buildings, open landscapes etc... There are many good videos on yt explaining that concept...
I am a highlight metering enjoyer. For general shooting I expose for the highlights and compensate +0.5 stops. Usually works great
I should try that +.5. I love the concept because it protects the highlights on people's faces but it's too dark most of the time. But then again, post processing generally pulls it all together.
Thank you for this clear explanation, Mark! Super helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! I used spot metering 90% of my shootings. The only time I use center metering is when I do group photo shooting or certain landscape shooting…
Thank you so much I was so confused until I saw this video you made it so simple thanks again.
Great to hear Mark!
Great general explanation of metering, Mark. I shoot on Canon mirrorless and the spot metering is, unfortunately, tied to the center spot ONLY. Even if you move the focus point, your metering is done at the center spot. Obviously this can be overcome by pointing the center spot at your subject and then recomposing. I just wanted to make you aware that spot metering doesn't work that way on all brands. Don't quote me, but I believe the only Canon digital bodies that allowed moving "the spot" were the 1DX series.
I have an R6 and I've never had metering issues with spot metering.
@@Mr_Glenn Understood. It isn't a matter of having "issues" with it. It's knowing how the system works and how to work around the immovable spot metering area. I was simply pointing out that the Canon mirrorless cameras don't offer a moveable spot metering area like the camera Mark was demonstrating on.
Mark...really enjoyed this video and you seem an excellent teacher...Since we are on the topic of METERING I have had this question a long time. All you ever hear about these days is "eye-auto focus." How Sony Canon leads the way blah blah blah...guess they do BUT I presently shoot Nikon, also Fuji...and have a Leica q2. In any case I tend to stay on evaluative metering, BUT my question is: if I choose to use "Eye auto focus" it SEEMS to me at least on Nikon and Fuji, EYE is turning metering to SPOT, regardless of how I have metering set. Is that possible, or JUST auto raising your exposure? All I want is the eye in focus...don't want an exposure or metering change. Whatever EYE is doing I find it I will often end up with badly blown highlights though the SUBJECT may now be perfectly lit. Because of this, I am finding unless the light is VERY even, eye-auto is almost a negative as far as exposure overall is concerned...any thoughts on this?, again is it changing your metering to SPOT or just raising exposure...which lets the camera decide? If anyone may know...Thanks...and new subscriber here! :)
Thanks for this, I like your hands-on explanation, very useful!
Great to hear - thank you!
So happy you switched to the Z8.
Same!
Another great video mark. Have a lovely weekend.
Thanks, you too!
I have highlight metering assigned to an Fn key in my landscape user mode for a quick check on the highlights on my Z7. This is a manual mode, so I don’t necessarily shoot in that metering mode, but it gives me a better idea of when to bracket. Often it comes up with a slight enough adjustment for a single exposure. I found it especially useful during sunrise when the light changes fast.
Mostly matrix, occasionally spot. I also never have a reason to use highlight weighted. When Nikon introduced this I seem to recall they were suggesting stage lighting as an example of when this would be helpful. Maybe it is.
When I shoot live music, I always use highlight weighted. It really helps in keeping bright led stage lights from blowing out the subject's skin. Also, where it is a spot metering and I frame my subjects all over the frame, it keeps everything in check and looking good.
I use Sony’s version of that all the time for stage lighting. It is hugely helpful, especially for overhead lights and foreheads.
@@SteveDisenhof, especially late in the set, when the sweat is flowing.
A clear understandable explanation.Thank you so much🙏😊
Glad to hear it!
Interesting. My Canon cameras have a different mode, which I use pretty much all the time - "evaluative metering". The way it was explained to me, it's basically spot metering with some center weighted added in.
If I'm shooting fast travel shots with little or no warning, which I often do, I'll just set exposure compensation at -2/3 stop to help protect highlights and not worry unless I've got a particularly high or low key image, in which case, I'll dial it in with exposure compensation. If I have any doubt, or the time, I'll throw a histogram up on the screen or EVF - I can toggle it quickly on both my bodies.
Of course, I can meter manually, or spot meter if necessary, but I find that there are so many good ways to approach the problem that I can make pretty much anything work (my favorite SLR has only spot metering, FWIW).
Thanks for the clear and informative video, Mark. Just an FYI, the TH-cam link image for this video labels it as “This metering mode is ruining your EXPOSURE!” I may have missed it, but I didn’t see that in the video, thought I’d be interested in learning that! Thanks again!
Great to hear you enjoyed it - it really depends on what you're photographing.
Thanks mark for explaining this, a lot of first time shooters don't know about this. They just use Auto.
Nice rundown. Matrix mostly. Carry on. 👍🥂
thank you, the best explanation I've heard.
When I first started out about 5 1/2 years ago, the advice I heard most often was to always use manual exposure settings. (Which I never agreed with for the most part - aperture priority works perfectly for the majority of the situations.). However, the frustrating thing was I never saw anyone explain _how_ to use manual exposure settings regardless of which metering mode you choose. It is just in the past few months that I finally bumped into a resource that explained, in detail, how to use manual exposure settings correctly. It has helped out a _ton_.
Such a clarifying explanation! Best video on this topic I've seen in years! Many thanks,Mark P.S.: Loved the aerial footage of Lençóis Maranhenses in Brazil! Greets from Brazi!
Glad you enjoyed it!
what I really want is to set highlight point for one of the zones, to keep texture in highlights area - and same for keep details in shadows... give 2 points, and make sure it does it. this is zone system basically...
Trivia for people still using Nikon DSLRs and looking at histograms post-shot (AKA 'chimping'). If you zoom in and move the loupe around, the histogram will reflect the part of the shot that's visible. I mostly use it to see if I've blown something in particular out (e.g. bright colored flower) as if that channel is blown there's no way to get the actual color back.
No idea if all camera bodies do this, but it works on my D600, D750, and D850 (only ones I have on hand).
Let’s be clear, “back in the film days” we had ttl metering in the sixties. Sure, I carried a handheld light meter, but I didn’t use it a whole lot unless I had the view camera. Also, when you’re in a priority mode, the exposure compensation dial is just as important as the type of metering you’re doing. To use EC, you really have to understand how the meter chooses exposure. You kind of skipped past the neutral grey thing a little quickly. 😊. The black card on a white wall example still illustrates it very well. Anyway, I enjoyed the video. f/8, man!
Very helpful for this rookie, thanks.
Matrix metering mostly on my Nikon. But I have spot metering on a function button (hold down to switch to it) which is useful in hand-held mode for some subjects (like portraits).
As always, great video. Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video! I love how well you explain things. I was always confused by metering modes and this helps so much. I do a lot of moon landscape photography. Do you think the spot metering mode will be helpful if I'm shooting a full moon rising at sunset?
Thank you, THE Bob Ross of Photography 🙏🙌
Excellent description of metering thank you
Thanks Robert!
If you move the focus/light marker in spot, and assuming aperture mode, then -- you can choose anywhere in your photo in order to change brightness.-- you can refine in post ---especially when using gfx100s or similar equipment
I was born in the 1960s and I can testify that I literally stayed away from photography because I hated metering. I watched people do it, I shook my head and used point and shoot cameras, and when digital cameras came about, I jumped on them! I love the metering options with digital.
I found this video to give a lot of information that was beneficial. Mark presents a clear, concise, straightforward presentation of the subject without random chatter.
An excellent explanation! btw-- as a Canon user I don't know whether that camera is a DSLR or mirrorless. Maybe that has been explained in the comments but I have a short attention span😁
best explanation ever ! Thanks
It's important to note (and this may vary by brand or camera) when you use spot metering, generally it is slightly larger than the physical spot where your focus point is (this is the case at least on Nikons), and you find the "boundaries" of this spot is by doing the sme test you would have done for center-weighted but with spot metering, you'll notice the areas where the exposure settings change as you move the camera around say a light source, this will tell you where the boundaries of spot metering are in relation to the focus point. But for the most part, I think the focus point does cover the majority of the area metered but it can extend a bit beyond the focus point area.
Personally for me, and the what I shoot, I have found that I use spot metering probably 3/4 of the time, regardless of how I'm shooting so to speak, especially if I'm shooting for HDR has this helps me determine (1) if I need to do a multi-frame HDR, and (2) what is the brightest and darkest areas of the photos (what are the settings or shutter speed needed and this helps me set up in-camera bracketing). I have found that matrix metering is probably the least used and partially because of how and what I tend to shoot. It's provided the least reliable results for me. So I'd say for me, spot metering is my first choice most of the time, followed by center weighted maybe 1/4 of the time (and mainly for specific things like portraits like you mentioned).
Outstanding video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Answering video, but you overlooked a huge number of details. I’ll give you a few examples: using spot meter in portrait, photography, more than likely is going to give you an incorrect exposure, the reason is because human beings are not the 18% gray that the spot meter is assuming. You have to compensate accordingly.
Then there’s also the factor of what matrix metering does. It does so much more than just evaluate the whole image. You might want to do a really deep dive on what matrix metering really is. You might need to go back and look at some articles that started to explore the concept back when the first powerful matrix meter in camera came on the scene: Nikon F5 with its 1005 point matrix metering.
In my 1970s FILM CAMERA I use whatever light meter setting BUILT INTO THE CAMERA is best for whatever subject I’m shooting.
Because for nearly all SLR history SLR cameras have had in built light meters.
I’ve never had to carry a separate device with me to take a light exposure on any film SLR because it’s rare to get one without a light meter.
And if by chance I never I’d use the right settings for the conditions to get a decent exposure.
The reason any film photographer used a separate device is the same reason digital photographers still use the same separate devices.
Mostly an understanding between the difference of incidental vs reflective light.
When I first started learning DSLR my instructor at the time stressed to use spot metering. I used spot metering all the time but found I was spending a lot of time in post processing adjusting the photo's. One day about 2 years ago I saw a video on youtube to use matrix mode. I tried it out and it was like night and day. Since I do a lot of landscapes and car shows and hardly ever portraits, I found I still adjust but not as drastically as I did with spot metering. By the way. I hope someday you will have a video on how to shoot people or portraits because I am terrible at it.
Great video! I use always "evaluative mode" on my Canon R6 mark ii. And 99% of my photos are taken in manual mode.
thanks Tom!
thanks for the video. real estate photography, in the sense you are speaking about, is similar to landscape,--the whole scene is important. would you favor one method of metering in manual mode for hdr real estate photography?
This is very helpful. Thanks!
If your scene is evenly illuminated, the mode is not important.
But as soon as you have high contrast or do high key / low key photography, you certainly do not want the camera to decide the exposure but take things in your own hand.
And in that moment, it is only a question of taste whether you choose spot metering, exposure compensation or fully manual (with view finder).
Thanks Mark great job it was very helpful.
Glad to hear it David!
From the mid-70s through the early 2000s I shot on a series of 35mm cameras. Everyone of them had built-in light meters.
Hi thank you for your video. It was very easy to understand. I’m learning and I shoot in manual. Does this mean that none of those metering modes matters to me? It doesn’t matter what I have it on?
Honestly, even after two viewings of this presentation I’m convinced that it’s either magic or blind luck that people get a decent exposure. I do subscribe to the practical experience method of learning so I applaud your suggestion that people might find that useful. But don’t worry about me. I started with a manual camera and a sheet of suggestions based on something called the sunny sixteen rule. The only automation was a self timer for the shutter; there was NO light meter. You left a question so I’ll end with my answer: I use the metering mode that experience indicates is the correct choice for the situation. After all it’s just luck or magic!
Excellent video!
Highligt are for when the highligth are the subject and you need details in the highligths. I use it often in the wood photography
What would you recommend for real estate photography?
Thanks as always.
In the film days I loved my Canon T 90 with multiple spot metering which averaged them.
Question - when shooting a moving subject which if any of the metering modes would "follow" along with the focus on the subject.