Thanks for the tips. Knowing I needed to remove two of the studs with an E8 reverse torx and to get the dealer part made this repair much more bearable. I watched several videos about this procedure, and yours was by far the most helpful.
Here are my TIPS from following this excellent video: 1. The medium-depth 12mm socket is CRITICAL. Don’t try this without it. I also needed a swivel and 8” extension to maneuver the right spaces. I used 1/4” which I think was important too. I only used a shallow socket for the bolts. 2. No one in local retail carries medium-depth sockets: AutoZone, OReilly, Ace, Harbor, Lowe’s, HomeDepo. But before you despair, you can buy a Craftsman 12mm Deep socket. Then take your hacksaw and remove approx 1/4” from the tip. Start small and take off more if needed. This worked really great and may have been better than a shallower mid-depth socket. Craftsman was important because it had more depth than other brands to clear the studs, but try another one out if you need. 3. Soak the studs, nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid for several hours before wrenching if you can. It’s tight!
I initially got scared because either the comments from videos or the narrators from video tutorials warned to use a medium shallow socket. It got to the point during removal process where I thought I was doomed, but I basically used 1/4" drive short & deep sockets & various 1/4" length extensions, 3/8'' drive short & deep sockets w/various length 3/8" extensions, 1/4" & 3/8 swivels, a regular sized 1/4" ratchet, a couple different 3/8" ratchets either fixed or w/flex heads and a few wobble end 3/8" extensions, but to be honest.. don't believe wobble's were ever instrumental. So, in a a nutshell, you have to try any combo of the basic stuff to make it all work out, even if you DON'T have medium sized 12mm sockets! But yeah.. DEFINITELY use PB Blaster to soak & facilitate bolt/nut removal AND DEFINITELY use OEM Toyota.. never aftermarket for this particular job!!! 👍
Great info thank you This line popped on me a few years ago and was close to a dealer that replaced the recalled parts for free. It would be interesting to know what socket the actual Toyota techs use for this.
I blew my outer line this past Saturday, lost 2/34 quarts of oil before I realized what happened, spent 2.5 hours on replacing the rubber hoses (pain) but was success, still ordered hard lines, thank you for the info!!
I was wondering why not just replace the hose, but sounds like it's not so easy? Guess thay don't make a hose with the bend in it so you have you to bend it yourself maybe putting more stress on it. Just happened to my daughter and SIL's 2011 Sienna the night before they were scheduled to drive back home, 10 hour trip. Had to get wrecker to take it to my mechanic. Lost only one day. Lucky it didn't happen on the road home. Will have to check my '05 Highlander to see if this applies.
Awesome video - posted by a mechanic who teaches folks how to save themselves a $700-$800 stealership bill or total engine failure for the failure of a poorly designed Lexus part.
Firstly thanks for the video, wouldn't have been able to do it on my 2009 Rx 350 without this video. TIPS and lessons learned: 1. As others say, if you do not have a wide variety of tools, get the OEM one. I used an aftermarket (NOVAPARTS) oil cooler line from amazon. 2. If you live in the rust belt like me, you will want to spray penetrant on hours before you start, and have a wire brush to clean up the rusty bolts to get a good fit and avoid stripping. The left side was noticeably more rusted and seized and actually the most difficult-to-get bolt was the easiest to break of the 4 studs 3. On the left side, left most long studs came out WITH the 12mm bolt as it was completely seized. The second one on the inside left came out with the E8 Torx. BE CAREFUL YOU CAN SNAP THE TORX HEAD as I did of the left most stud. In the rust-belt, the two posts on the left side came out due to seized bolts which had me not need to remove the posts on the upper right like in the video. This actually helped with the installation and just installed it back with it seized completely. Again, if you're from the North, this will probably happen to you as well. Suggestions: 1. If from North, get new studs and new bolts for the install, I wish I had done that for piece of mind 2. Flex extension is recommended, universal swivels are a must for that hard to reach stud as everyone states. 3. You must have a few extensions. I used a mix of 3/8" and 1/4" drives for the removal and only 1/4" drive for install with varying depths of 12mm sockets (semideep/deep and shallow) as its tight in there. Be careful if using a cheater bar to break some heavy seized bolts & make sure things are lined up correcty. 4. 12mm socket NMT 2.5" long, suggest 2" if possible & E8 reverse torx is a must. 5. Contact cement to get the gasket on is recommended just like the video. Total time: 4hrs, mostly with the pain of seized bolts. Jobs like this make me wish I lived in the South.
WELL DONE! I did this today and wish I'd seen YOUR video beforehand! VERY WISE ADVICE on that lower right stud/nut; that was easily 3/4 of the 4 hour job and didn't have to be. Soooo hard to do if you have not seen this video. At least I used genuine Toyota parts and gaskets. Thanks again!
That last bolt you couldnt tightened, I actually did get it tightened lol. I used a 3/8 "12mm" socket, 3/8 swivel, 3/8 long extension, and 3/8 ratchet 👍
Thanks for the video. I was able to use normal or deep sockets and various extensions to complete the work. I do have a swivel head ratchet that helped but I was able to get to all of it. I also bought the OEM Lexus part which was not much more than the Dorman so it just made sense. On my car the studs on the pass side came out along with the nuts that were seized to them so I ended up not even needing the E8 socket.
Thanks for the great video! Using the Toyota part and the universal joint ratchet attachment made all the difference. The tip on pulling the studs was key.
THANK YOU for the time, detail, and effort you've put into this video. You end up letting people decide for themselves if it's worth doing this at home with all the specific required tools, or biting the bullet and taking it to the shop. This is really nicely done, and is appreciated!
You showed me how to get this off after I gave up and I actually got that last nut on at the end quite easy. I had smaller bits and a small swivel extension/ So far so good
I'm the second owner of a Sienna 3.5 (the same engine). I looked up my van's dealer history repair ( through Toyota owner website) , luckily it has neen replaced. I confirmed that by looking under the van from the oil filter angle in front of passenger side wheel. Big relief.
I just bought a 2008 Sienna a few weeks back, and noticed that the rubber line is still there. I've heard stories about it spontaneously disconnecting and dumping almost the entire oil pan on the ground, so I'm having my mechanic replace it with a metal line today
What a PITA. I started this as at 9am, it's now 2pm and I keep having to run the car and let it sit for 30 minutes to figure out where the leak is coming from. The OEM pipe I got from Toyota was 6-8mm away from sitting flush on the driver side, so I had to bend it into place and tighten bolts to get it to properly mate to the surface. I've figured out the leak is coming from the far left bolt of the passenger side. About 1/2 a drop every half hour. Now I have to redo the whole thing and repeat the process. If you don't get PERFECT gaskets and pipes, this can easily be an all day job or worse.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Yeah, I've got a slow leak through a stud on the driver side, which is the side I did second and had to torque the two surfaces together. Another leak on the other side despite doing it first and being very thorough. Both leaks very slow. A single drop develops over prolonged time.
I replaced the studs and (I think) bolts with stainless cap head screws+ stainless lock washers from big box store so I could use an allen wrench. About $8 a couple years ago. Much easier to access on the AWD Sienna 3.5L. I'm not sure if eventual galvanic corrosion would have been an issue, cause my son totaled it about a month later thankfully with no injured parties. lol
I bought the doorman part and had a hard time getting that last nut on and tight. I ended up tightening it from the top. I cut a flex head ratcheting wrench in order to tighten it.
Thanks for the reply I looked in that area mine is front wheel drive model so I guess that model didn’t have these lines so I don’t have to worry about it thanks for your reply.
Great video, you showed all the important details and video angle is amazing. My friend just git this part replaced at the dealership and they said the price of labor was expensive because it required 4 hours of labor, how long did it take you to replace this part. Thanks again
no from all my research they did not have those cooler lines on the front wheel drive models for the extra only on the ones that were all wheel drive and had the tow package for the extra heat . I looked yesterday u should be able to see them looking down into the engine bay. I don’t have those lines on mine
No this is the oil cooler lines or you might call them the oil filter lines. The VVtI lines are on to of the motor and they are already metal. Thanks for watching
I searched “Lexus 9LH” here on TH-cam and this video as well as other oil cooler line replacement videos appear at the top of the results. 9LH is for the VVTi oil line, not oil cooler line, which I believe is for vehicles with a tow package.
Very nice video. I did not see the pinned comment about the Dorman pipe, but I was able to tighten all the nuts using the Dorman pipe by slipping the medium 12mm socket (by itself) OVER THE TOP of the pipe. I did have to force it in slightly to get to the nut. After the socket was over the nut I then "built" my connection from the socket to the ratchet as follows: connected to the socket a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, then a 1/4" swivel and then finally my extensions to the ratchet. From another web page I found that the torques should be 15 ft-lb, but there is no way to torque without swivels, so I just tightened moderately hard. Also, according to another website the raised side of the gaskets are supposed to face toward the pipe flange instead of the engine block surface, but I don't think it really matters because I put my gaskets on facing different directions and it sealed just fine.
Pulled my hair out today with this same issue. Need a 1/4 drive 12mm semi-deep thin wall swivel socket to get that last bolt on.. better off getting the OEM I guess
I have 2007 Rav 4 V 6 sport. Yours and mine have " Engine Oil cooler line 2007 Rav 4 V-6 (google search )" with a mid rubber tubing in the middle (need to replace it with all metal also). I will replace mine next week.
I know its a E8 reverse torx socket and 10mm sockets. A medium deep socket works the best. Be sure to get the dealer part, the Dorman it not bent right and is harder to install.
The hardest bolt (lowest one on the right side of the oil cooler line) is not that hard until you try to take it out AFTER having installed the metal oil cooler line one that is *not* made by Lexus/Toyota, because then the space is even tighter!
How ridiculous that Toyota/Lexus would place a rubber hose in a critical part of the oil system. I'm reading that this is in some form of recall with Toyota replacing this gratis? Is that accurate?
They never recalled it, they only put out a "TSB" or "technical service bulletin". If you're under the 10 year mark you can get it replaced for free at the dealer regardless, as it's one of those things that's known, they just didn't want to take the massive financial hit of issuing a formal recall.
Did you drop a cross member? That one nut that you describe as a problem... I can't figure out how to get to it. But I don't have a medium length deep well socket that you mention. Everything else I'm complete
No I did not drop the cross member just the plastic shields. That is a the problem doing this job, you must have 3 different length sockets. Be sure not to use the Dorman pipe, its not bent right and then its even harder to tighten that lower nut. Thanks for watching
Thanks for that. It seems I can get the one bolt on each (two total) with a normal 12mm socket, then the nut on the threaded rod on the plate towards the driver's side requires a mid length socket. That same socket I think should work on all four. Where is the third length socket used?
Helped my brother replace this part the other day. One of the studs (the hardest one to get to) won't screw back in. It simply will not thread no matter how hard we try. We were at it for hours (kind of embarrassing). Could we just replace the stud with a regular old bolt?
I do not post part numbers because your car could take a totally different part. Its better if you call your parts place and get the right one. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing............. I guess you could replace those rubber lines every 2-3 years/30k. I presume this is an update to prevent a "recall"........ I wonder how long that rubber gaskets will hold up - now that is the weakest point? BMW has same issue with oil filter housing gasket - about 10 years/100k or so you end up replacing them, some engines it is easy and some not so easy. I think I would have used Med. Blue Thread Locker (Non-Permanent)- "light amount" on those studs/nuts so they will not come loose with vibration instead of anti-seize. I can not image that the torque values would be high on those given rubber gaskets - granted there is not a lot of room to be using torque wrenches there.
I would just replace then once with the metal one. The nuts were hard enough to get off I don't think lock tight is necessary. That is why I put anti-seize on them. Thanks for watching
I stopped the video a little early when he sounded like he was signing off. Watch till the end. I'm going to get a Toyota part!!! Same issue as Michael's! That lower bolt on the upper part is blocked by the tube. The Doorman part does not bend the tube out of the way like the original metal piece of Toyota part. Every video I have seen on TH-cam ends before they show how to tighten that last bolt. I could see how a super thin wall 12mm socket might make it, but I have not been able to get any standard tool in there. I have tried long, short, swivel, non swivel, even a crow-foot wrench. Nothing I have will fit in that space. My car is sitting in the driveway with all the bolts finger tight. I am considering taking it back out (what a pain), getting a refund and repairing the old part with some 5/8 inch ID hydraulic tubing. I wish Doorman would have taken the effort to match the tube shape of the original part!
So what did you do in order to tighten the nut on the stud on the last part? I couldn’t fit any sort of 12mm in there to tighten, so I loosened the stud a couple threads, and threaded the nut some more with my fingers, then tightened the stud back... plan on grabbing a stubby 12mm wrench to try it again tonight
I was able to get that medium deep socket that I showed at the beginning in there after playing with it for a while. It barely fit. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Damn I’m still struggling, I’m trying to pry the line a bit to kink it just enough to fit my stubby 12mm wrench, no luck so far
@@qmautomotiverepair2830 I tried to bend it also, but could not. I was scared I was going to poke a hole in the upper oil pan. I would not try to bend it.
Just completed this Oil Cooler line replacement on my 2011 RX 350...Was able to access that nut on upper stud with a 12mm deep well 6 pt. 1/4 drive socket, a swivel socket adapter and an extension bar that is long enough to reach socket wrench just outside frame. Would post some pictures, but not sure how lol...
I have a 2007 Lexus rx350 that came with the oil cooler. The motor is blown. Can i install the (motor) version that doesn’t come with the oil cooler? Reason being is when you look at both versions of the engine the one without the oil cooler is $1000 cheaper.
I used the factory Toyota replacement with new Toyota seals however my driver side seal leaks ever so slightly. I feel like I have already put more than 15lb/ft of torque on the bolts which is what they take. Any recommendations? I'm not very happy after going through all that hassle to install then having this tiny drip of oil (maybe one drip every minute or so).
Did you clean off the old gasket material ? I hope you did not scratch the mating it because the metal gaskets need a flat surface. I would get two new gaskets and take it apart again.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I just did the entire job again, this time I took all the studs out, cleaned the mating surface with a plastic knife, then used alcohol and some 2000 grit paper, barely touching it. The only thing remaining on the surface looked almost like stains/lines from the old impressions. It seems to be good so far using the existing/new seals, they were still in good shape as I never got them too hot the initial try. I ran the car for 5 minutes without a leak.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I spoke too soon. I had a leak on the upper gasket the first time, now I have a leak on the lower gasket but the upper is not leaking. What a pita job. I'm about to throw the gaskets out and use permatex or something that I trust.
I've been pulling my hair out trying to find a medium length 12mm swivel ANYWHERE on the internet. Can someone please link me to one I can buy online? No local stores have anything like it and it's driving me mad!
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks! I found ONE snap on a few days before on eBay that fit the bill, looks like I’ll be shelling out the $25 for a single swivel socket lol. Much appreciated man
You'd think Toyota would engineer something better???? I'm going to replace the lines on the two Toyota's we have with the old lines on the next oil change.
I put mine on ordinary ramps, blocked the back tires, put the parking brake on and I had plenty of working space. In fact, any higher would make it harder from a prone position on the floor.
You are going to need different lengths 12mm, 10mm sockets, universal joints and a E8 reverse torx socket. I show the sockets I use in the first 40 seconds of the video. Thanks for watching.
You can then if you want to take it apart again you will only have 1 chance to get them out. With the nuts and studs either the nut comes loose or the stud comes out.
Save some efforts, I left upper plate lower stud and lower plate right stud on. You can still easily remove The whole cooler line without cutting the rubber line.
I would not use the Dorman pipe I would get a dealer one. Watch the video all the way through to see why.
Whats wrong with the Dorman one?
@@promo_sm6399 It's not bent right and is really hard to get the bottom nuts tight.
Agreed, the OEM is $220 with gaskets...worth it.
Hi, does the Lexus ES 350 2005 comes with Rubber VVTI Oil Line!?
@@cristobalcardona5592 I can't remember
Thanks for the tips. Knowing I needed to remove two of the studs with an E8 reverse torx and to get the dealer part made this repair much more bearable. I watched several videos about this procedure, and yours was by far the most helpful.
Yes dealer only, unless you want to make it harder. Thanks for watching
How long did the repair take you to complete? 😊 I'm about to do mine as preventative maintenance
I agree that this is the better video of the few I watched. In one video the guy was taking apart his frame!!!!
Here are my TIPS from following this excellent video:
1. The medium-depth 12mm socket is CRITICAL. Don’t try this without it. I also needed a swivel and 8” extension to maneuver the right spaces. I used 1/4” which I think was important too. I only used a shallow socket for the bolts.
2. No one in local retail carries medium-depth sockets: AutoZone, OReilly, Ace, Harbor, Lowe’s, HomeDepo. But before you despair, you can buy a Craftsman 12mm Deep socket. Then take your hacksaw and remove approx 1/4” from the tip. Start small and take off more if needed. This worked really great and may have been better than a shallower mid-depth socket. Craftsman was important because it had more depth than other brands to clear the studs, but try another one out if you need.
3. Soak the studs, nuts, and bolts in penetrating fluid for several hours before wrenching if you can. It’s tight!
I initially got scared because either the comments from videos or the narrators from video tutorials warned to use a medium shallow socket. It got to the point during removal process where I thought I was doomed, but I basically used 1/4" drive short & deep sockets & various 1/4" length extensions, 3/8'' drive short & deep sockets w/various length 3/8" extensions, 1/4" & 3/8 swivels, a regular sized 1/4" ratchet, a couple different 3/8" ratchets either fixed or w/flex heads and a few wobble end 3/8" extensions, but to be honest.. don't believe wobble's were ever instrumental. So, in a a nutshell, you have to try any combo of the basic stuff to make it all work out, even if you DON'T have medium sized 12mm sockets! But yeah.. DEFINITELY use PB Blaster to soak & facilitate bolt/nut removal AND DEFINITELY use OEM Toyota.. never aftermarket for this particular job!!! 👍
Great info thank you
This line popped on me a few years ago and was close to a dealer that replaced the recalled parts for free. It would be interesting to know what socket the actual Toyota techs use for this.
I blew my outer line this past Saturday, lost 2/34 quarts of oil before I realized what happened, spent 2.5 hours on replacing the rubber hoses (pain) but was success, still ordered hard lines, thank you for the info!!
Be sure to order a dealer one. Thanks for watching
I was wondering why not just replace the hose, but sounds like it's not so easy? Guess thay don't make a hose with the bend in it so you have you to bend it yourself maybe putting more stress on it. Just happened to my daughter and SIL's 2011 Sienna the night before they were scheduled to drive back home, 10 hour trip. Had to get wrecker to take it to my mechanic. Lost only one day. Lucky it didn't happen on the road home. Will have to check my '05 Highlander to see if this applies.
@@bigpardnerdid you find out if your Highlander has rubber lines?
Awesome video - posted by a mechanic who teaches folks how to save themselves a $700-$800 stealership bill or total engine failure for the failure of a poorly designed Lexus part.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Firstly thanks for the video, wouldn't have been able to do it on my 2009 Rx 350 without this video.
TIPS and lessons learned:
1. As others say, if you do not have a wide variety of tools, get the OEM one. I used an aftermarket (NOVAPARTS) oil cooler line from amazon.
2. If you live in the rust belt like me, you will want to spray penetrant on hours before you start, and have a wire brush to clean up the rusty bolts to get a good fit and avoid stripping. The left side was noticeably more rusted and seized and actually the most difficult-to-get bolt was the easiest to break of the 4 studs
3. On the left side, left most long studs came out WITH the 12mm bolt as it was completely seized. The second one on the inside left came out with the E8 Torx. BE CAREFUL YOU CAN SNAP THE TORX HEAD as I did of the left most stud. In the rust-belt, the two posts on the left side came out due to seized bolts which had me not need to remove the posts on the upper right like in the video. This actually helped with the installation and just installed it back with it seized completely. Again, if you're from the North, this will probably happen to you as well.
Suggestions:
1. If from North, get new studs and new bolts for the install, I wish I had done that for piece of mind
2. Flex extension is recommended, universal swivels are a must for that hard to reach stud as everyone states.
3. You must have a few extensions. I used a mix of 3/8" and 1/4" drives for the removal and only 1/4" drive for install with varying depths of 12mm sockets (semideep/deep and shallow) as its tight in there. Be careful if using a cheater bar to break some heavy seized bolts & make sure things are lined up correcty.
4. 12mm socket NMT 2.5" long, suggest 2" if possible & E8 reverse torx is a must.
5. Contact cement to get the gasket on is recommended just like the video.
Total time: 4hrs, mostly with the pain of seized bolts. Jobs like this make me wish I lived in the South.
WELL DONE! I did this today and wish I'd seen YOUR video beforehand!
VERY WISE ADVICE on that lower right stud/nut; that was easily 3/4 of the 4 hour job and didn't have to be. Soooo hard to do if you have not seen this video. At least I used genuine Toyota parts and gaskets. Thanks again!
Working on cars requires a certain level of creativity.
That last bolt you couldnt tightened, I actually did get it tightened lol. I used a 3/8 "12mm" socket, 3/8 swivel, 3/8 long extension, and 3/8 ratchet 👍
Same, I did it today... lucky combo of sockets I guess.
Thanks for the video. I was able to use normal or deep sockets and various extensions to complete the work. I do have a swivel head ratchet that helped but I was able to get to all of it. I also bought the OEM Lexus part which was not much more than the Dorman so it just made sense. On my car the studs on the pass side came out along with the nuts that were seized to them so I ended up not even needing the E8 socket.
Great thanks for watching
Thanks for the great video! Using the Toyota part and the universal joint ratchet attachment made all the difference. The tip on pulling the studs was key.
The toyota part fits much better and easier than the after market ones
That's what I said already. Thanks for watching
What's that part number for that Toyota part
THANK YOU for the time, detail, and effort you've put into this video. You end up letting people decide for themselves if it's worth doing this at home with all the specific required tools, or biting the bullet and taking it to the shop. This is really nicely done, and is appreciated!
Thank you and thanks for watching
You showed me how to get this off after I gave up and I actually got that last nut on at the end quite easy. I had smaller bits and a small swivel extension/ So far so good
Good job. If you have the right sockets it's not to bad of a job. Thanks for watching
I'm the second owner of a Sienna 3.5 (the same engine). I looked up my van's dealer history repair ( through Toyota owner website) , luckily it has neen replaced. I confirmed that by looking under the van from the oil filter angle in front of passenger side wheel. Big relief.
I just bought a 2008 Sienna a few weeks back, and noticed that the rubber line is still there.
I've heard stories about it spontaneously disconnecting and dumping almost the entire oil pan on the ground, so I'm having my mechanic replace it with a metal line today
What a PITA. I started this as at 9am, it's now 2pm and I keep having to run the car and let it sit for 30 minutes to figure out where the leak is coming from. The OEM pipe I got from Toyota was 6-8mm away from sitting flush on the driver side, so I had to bend it into place and tighten bolts to get it to properly mate to the surface. I've figured out the leak is coming from the far left bolt of the passenger side. About 1/2 a drop every half hour. Now I have to redo the whole thing and repeat the process. If you don't get PERFECT gaskets and pipes, this can easily be an all day job or worse.
The pipe that I have gotten for Toyota fit perfectly. I do not know why, you must have got one that was not made right
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Yeah, I've got a slow leak through a stud on the driver side, which is the side I did second and had to torque the two surfaces together. Another leak on the other side despite doing it first and being very thorough. Both leaks very slow. A single drop develops over prolonged time.
This is the best info I've seen on this procedure. Thanks!
Thanks for watching
I replaced the studs and (I think) bolts with stainless cap head screws+ stainless lock washers from big box store so I could use an allen wrench. About $8 a couple years ago. Much easier to access on the AWD Sienna 3.5L. I'm not sure if eventual galvanic corrosion would have been an issue, cause my son totaled it about a month later thankfully with no injured parties. lol
I try to put anti-seize on all the bolts I put back in. That's a good idea with the allen bolts on this. Thanks for watching
Thank you very much for making this video!! Very helpful.
I bought the doorman part and had a hard time getting that last nut on and tight. I ended up tightening it from the top. I cut a flex head ratcheting wrench in order to tighten it.
Yep, that’s why I recommend getting the dealer one. Thanks for watching
Quick question I have 2013 rx350 does this affect that year I have the tow package on mine a lot of people said they revised it by 2013? Please help
The tow package is suppose to have the metal one. But I would still look and see if you have it.
Thanks for the reply I looked in that area mine is front wheel drive model so I guess that model didn’t have these lines so I don’t have to worry about it thanks for your reply.
@@joshuapressley4441 I think you do have them.
Great video, you showed all the important details and video angle is amazing.
My friend just git this part replaced at the dealership and they said the price of labor was expensive because it required 4 hours of labor, how long did it take you to replace this part. Thanks again
I do not remember how long it took me but I know it was at least a couple. The harder the nuts come out the more labor.
It’s 10:23pm and I’m still fighting with the stud . Wish I seen your video before buying the doorman brand 😡
A 4’ inch wrench will do the trick!
Finally done ! 👍🏻
no from all my research they did not have those cooler lines on the front wheel drive models for the extra only on the ones that were all wheel drive and had the tow package for the extra heat . I looked yesterday u should be able to see them looking down into the engine bay. I don’t have those lines on mine
I crossed treaded the bottom right stud and the upper oil pan housing broke in pieces I would recommend getting a mechanic to this if possible.
So, it is the VVTI oil line that needs to be replaced on all the models before 2009? Thank you for the great approach on how to do it
No this is the oil cooler lines or you might call them the oil filter lines. The VVtI lines are on to of the motor and they are already metal. Thanks for watching
I searched “Lexus 9LH” here on TH-cam and this video as well as other oil cooler line replacement videos appear at the top of the results. 9LH is for the VVTi oil line, not oil cooler line, which I believe is for vehicles with a tow package.
Thanks for posting. It’s much appreciated. Mine is next. I only wish I had your lift too.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for video I have to do this today what a pain I’m in for
And I got the Toyota one from Toyota for only $252 Australian not to bad better than buying an engine ha ha ha
Thank you! This helped a ton!
Great video and info, thank you for sharing.
Very nice video. I did not see the pinned comment about the Dorman pipe, but I was able to tighten all the nuts using the Dorman pipe by slipping the medium 12mm socket (by itself) OVER THE TOP of the pipe. I did have to force it in slightly to get to the nut. After the socket was over the nut I then "built" my connection from the socket to the ratchet as follows: connected to the socket a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter, then a 1/4" swivel and then finally my extensions to the ratchet. From another web page I found that the torques should be 15 ft-lb, but there is no way to torque without swivels, so I just tightened moderately hard. Also, according to another website the raised side of the gaskets are supposed to face toward the pipe flange instead of the engine block surface, but I don't think it really matters because I put my gaskets on facing different directions and it sealed just fine.
That sounds like what I had to do with the Dorman pipe. You can do it but the dealer pipe does fit better. Thanks for watching
Pulled my hair out today with this same issue. Need a 1/4 drive 12mm semi-deep thin wall swivel socket to get that last bolt on.. better off getting the OEM I guess
I used a 3/8 inch drive crows foot with an extension to tighten it. It was easy!
I have the same engine 2007 Rav4 with the v6 2gr-fe but do not see this Oil cooler line
Yes it is different on RAV4. Thanks for watching
I have 2007 Rav 4 V 6 sport. Yours and mine have " Engine Oil cooler line 2007 Rav 4 V-6 (google search )" with a mid rubber tubing in the middle (need to replace it with all metal also). I will replace mine next week.
Excellent vid. Thank you !
yeah my es350 doesnt have that line, it does have the rubber VVTi line that i have to replace though
How can you tell what your car has.
@@erickonassis6310 i just popped it up and took a look underneath in that spot
Can you just replace the plastic hose that joined the two metal pipe? My Sienna is leaking badly and I think it might be the same issue.
I could not find the hoses that would hold up to oil. Just replace it with the metal one and you will never have to worry about it again.
great video. Can you put links to the tools required? Is that a female Torx bit that you used?
I know its a E8 reverse torx socket and 10mm sockets. A medium deep socket works the best. Be sure to get the dealer part, the Dorman it not bent right and is harder to install.
Wondering why you put the studs back in and did not replace them with bolts? Would make it easier to pull off next time.
I hope there will not be a next time. The metal one should last the rest of the cars life time. Thanks for watching
Do you think the Toyota oil cooler line would still require removal of the two studs?
Yes you have to remove the studs. The new lines do not flex at all. thanks for watching
The hardest bolt (lowest one on the right side of the oil cooler line) is not that hard until you try to take it out AFTER having installed the metal oil cooler line one that is *not* made by Lexus/Toyota, because then the space is even tighter!
This why I pined my first comment that the Dorman pipe does not fit right. Thanks for watching
Found the Toyota Part#: 15767-31020 (Engine Oil Cooler Line)
The two gasket part#'s are as follows...
11496-31010
15785-31010
Always double check the part numbers because they might be different for your car.
question. I just checked my 2012 Lexus RX350，there is no oil cooler there, is this normal? is the oil cooler only on cars with towing package?
Probably
Anyone know if these rubber lines were used on 2004 Highlander or Lexus 330s? Thanks!
If it has a 3.5L motor it does. Lexus 330 is the older motor that do not have these lines
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore did the 330 have any problems like this? I have a 350 and a 330
@@imthirstyh2o330 The 330 could have this setup, The 350 does not.
I was just wondering I have a 2010 RX 350, I heard that only cars with a tow package has the oil cooler line is that correct?
No . The ones with the towing package all ready has the metal lines. Thanks for watching
How ridiculous that Toyota/Lexus would place a rubber hose in a critical part of the oil system. I'm reading that this is in some form of recall with Toyota replacing this gratis? Is that accurate?
That I do not know. I have not heard about any recall. thanks for watching
They never recalled it, they only put out a "TSB" or "technical service bulletin". If you're under the 10 year mark you can get it replaced for free at the dealer regardless, as it's one of those things that's known, they just didn't want to take the massive financial hit of issuing a formal recall.
It is a recall in countries where auto lobbyists don't own the legislature
@@marksatterfield A better world is possible! Just not here though. 🤣
Does this issue apply to the 2gr-fks engine as well?
I do not think so, but not 100% sure. I would look it you have one.
Did you drop a cross member? That one nut that you describe as a problem... I can't figure out how to get to it. But I don't have a medium length deep well socket that you mention. Everything else I'm complete
No I did not drop the cross member just the plastic shields. That is a the problem doing this job, you must have 3 different length sockets. Be sure not to use the Dorman pipe, its not bent right and then its even harder to tighten that lower nut. Thanks for watching
Thanks for that. It seems I can get the one bolt on each (two total) with a normal 12mm socket, then the nut on the threaded rod on the plate towards the driver's side requires a mid length socket. That same socket I think should work on all four. Where is the third length socket used?
@@marksatterfield Its just there if you need it.
Will the oil cooler cause coolant to mix with oil ?
No it was leaking all the oil out of the engine.
Good video. How about including the Toyota OEM oil cooler line and gaskets part numbers in the video description?
I do not like putting part numbers in because there might be several different part numbers for different models and years. Thanks for watching
do you need to drain the oil to do this?
No you do not
Thanks for the video.
I accidentally stripped that first nut you removed...fml any recommendations on an extractor or how to remove it???
The studs should unscrew. But I would put a little heat on the surrounding metal.
I ended up cutting the metal lines closer to the flange and tapped the flange up and down until the nut came loose.
Is the process similar on the 2GR-FSE on the IS350?
I do not know. Sorry but thanks for watching
Hi, How much oil is lost in this procedure?
The ones I have done did not have much oil left in them. So not that much. I would saw 1/2 to 1 quart.
Thank you 👍
Helped my brother replace this part the other day. One of the studs (the hardest one to get to) won't screw back in. It simply will not thread no matter how hard we try. We were at it for hours (kind of embarrassing). Could we just replace the stud with a regular old bolt?
Yes you can, just be sure its not to long and bottoms out.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Thanks! We will give it a try.
Thank you, this helped me out a bunch. Got it all done, used genuine Toyota part. Subbed, and liked.
Great thanks for watching and subscribing
Awesome video. Do you need gasket glue? Also which/brand gasket glue did you use? Thx
No glue just new gaskets. Thanks for watching
Why didn't you post a link to get the part you ordered. ? Post , edit or send me the link to find the OEM replacement please
I do not post part numbers because your car could take a totally different part. Its better if you call your parts place and get the right one. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing............. I guess you could replace those rubber lines every 2-3 years/30k. I presume this is an update to prevent a "recall"........ I wonder how long that rubber gaskets will hold up - now that is the weakest point? BMW has same issue with oil filter housing gasket - about 10 years/100k or so you end up replacing them, some engines it is easy and some not so easy.
I think I would have used Med. Blue Thread Locker (Non-Permanent)- "light amount" on those studs/nuts so they will not come loose with vibration instead of anti-seize. I can not image that the torque values would be high on those given rubber gaskets - granted there is not a lot of room to be using torque wrenches there.
I would just replace then once with the metal one. The nuts were hard enough to get off I don't think lock tight is necessary. That is why I put anti-seize on them. Thanks for watching
I stopped the video a little early when he sounded like he was signing off. Watch till the end. I'm going to get a Toyota part!!!
Same issue as Michael's! That lower bolt on the upper part is blocked by the tube. The Doorman part does not bend the tube out of the way like the original metal piece of Toyota part. Every video I have seen on TH-cam ends before they show how to tighten that last bolt. I could see how a super thin wall 12mm socket might make it, but I have not been able to get any standard tool in there. I have tried long, short, swivel, non swivel, even a crow-foot wrench. Nothing I have will fit in that space. My car is sitting in the driveway with all the bolts finger tight. I am considering taking it back out (what a pain), getting a refund and repairing the old part with some 5/8 inch ID hydraulic tubing. I wish Doorman would have taken the effort to match the tube shape of the original part!
Sorry about that, I am going to go and edit the video so it doesn't sound like I am done. Thanks for watching
So what did you do in order to tighten the nut on the stud on the last part? I couldn’t fit any sort of 12mm in there to tighten, so I loosened the stud a couple threads, and threaded the nut some more with my fingers, then tightened the stud back... plan on grabbing a stubby 12mm wrench to try it again tonight
I was able to get that medium deep socket that I showed at the beginning in there after playing with it for a while. It barely fit. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore Damn I’m still struggling, I’m trying to pry the line a bit to kink it just enough to fit my stubby 12mm wrench, no luck so far
@@qmautomotiverepair2830 I tried to bend it also, but could not. I was scared I was going to poke a hole in the upper oil pan. I would not try to bend it.
Just completed this Oil Cooler line replacement on my 2011 RX 350...Was able to access that nut on upper stud with a 12mm deep well 6 pt. 1/4 drive socket, a swivel socket adapter and an extension bar that is long enough to reach socket wrench just outside frame. Would post some pictures, but not sure how lol...
@@dvckennyd1 Yep you need all different lengths 12mm sockets and wrenches to do this job. Thanks for watching
I have a question, I have a 2008 Lexus es350. Do you know if this would be the same procedure?
Yes it is. Thanks for watching
Does Lexus is350 have a transmission cooler?
Not sure I can not remember.
Would a deep socket e8 work for those studs or do I need a shallow socket?
It will work on the lowers but not the uppers. But you really do not need to remove the uppers.
I have a 2007 Lexus rx350 that came with the oil cooler. The motor is blown. Can i install the (motor) version that doesn’t come with the oil cooler? Reason being is when you look at both versions of the engine the one without the oil cooler is $1000 cheaper.
I do not know sorry
I used the factory Toyota replacement with new Toyota seals however my driver side seal leaks ever so slightly. I feel like I have already put more than 15lb/ft of torque on the bolts which is what they take. Any recommendations? I'm not very happy after going through all that hassle to install then having this tiny drip of oil (maybe one drip every minute or so).
Did you clean off the old gasket material ? I hope you did not scratch the mating it because the metal gaskets need a flat surface. I would get two new gaskets and take it apart again.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I just did the entire job again, this time I took all the studs out, cleaned the mating surface with a plastic knife, then used alcohol and some 2000 grit paper, barely touching it. The only thing remaining on the surface looked almost like stains/lines from the old impressions. It seems to be good so far using the existing/new seals, they were still in good shape as I never got them too hot the initial try. I ran the car for 5 minutes without a leak.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I spoke too soon. I had a leak on the upper gasket the first time, now I have a leak on the lower gasket but the upper is not leaking. What a pita job. I'm about to throw the gaskets out and use permatex or something that I trust.
@@ColoradoFishing I would keep the gaskets. Take it apart again and se what's going on
why doesnt mine hav this? ive looked all over. 2009 sienna awd
I do not know.
great video! thanks!
Did you eventually get the Dorman part in?
Yes I did get it to work but the one bottom nut was very hard to get the socket on. Thanks for watching
****What vehicle are you working on, ES350, RX350 or Avelon?
This one is a Toyota Highlander, but all those cars you mentioned has the same engine. Thanks for watching
Does Toyota do this service or you need to go to Lexus? Thanks
Some dealers won't work on the other models. I would call them to be sure they will. Thanks for watching
What exactly was this car doing that made you want to replace this?
The original one has rubber lines and was leaking real bad. To the point of ruining the engine. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore I dont see any leaks but when I first start it smokes thick for like 20- 30 secs. Do you think this can be the same fix?
@@tahersalem3488 I don't know. This leak sprays all over the place and does not stop.
I've been pulling my hair out trying to find a medium length 12mm swivel ANYWHERE on the internet. Can someone please link me to one I can buy online? No local stores have anything like it and it's driving me mad!
The ones I use are Snap-on. Gearwrench make a mid lenght 12mm socket #80394S and then just put a universal on it. Thanks for watching
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks! I found ONE snap on a few days before on eBay that fit the bill, looks like I’ll be shelling out the $25 for a single swivel socket lol. Much appreciated man
You'd think Toyota would engineer something better???? I'm going to replace the lines on the two Toyota's we have with the old lines on the next oil change.
Excelente vídeo. Muito me ajudou. Thank you.
هل يوجد ب is300 2007 ?
I don't think so
Hi guys, has somebody here been able to complete the job at home, by jacking the front of the vehicle? is there enough of space?
Yes you can just be sure to be safe and USE JACK STANDS! Thanks for watching
I put mine on ordinary ramps, blocked the back tires, put the parking brake on and I had plenty of working space. In fact, any higher would make it harder from a prone position on the floor.
Can you please include the exact tools you used. Planning on tackling mine on Saturday . I’m waiting for Amazon to ship the part.
You are going to need different lengths 12mm, 10mm sockets, universal joints and a E8 reverse torx socket. I show the sockets I use in the first 40 seconds of the video. Thanks for watching.
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thank you I’m tackling in the cold !
Got that last bolt with a 12mm stubby wrench, pain in the ass
Yep must have all sizes of 12mm to do this job. Thanks for watching
Why not replace them all with bolts
You can then if you want to take it apart again you will only have 1 chance to get them out. With the nuts and studs either the nut comes loose or the stud comes out.
Save some efforts, I left upper plate lower stud and lower plate right stud on. You can still easily remove The whole cooler line without cutting the rubber line.
This rubber line was rock hard and would not bend or move at all. Had to cut it makes it easier.
very difficult?
As long the studs come out of the engine and get the dealer one ( it fits better). I would also cut the old rubber out so you can get it out easily
@@TheGAutomotiveAndMore thanks
NOPE SORRY THE TOYOTA ONE DID THE SAME FOR ME AS FAR AS THAT 3RD BOLT
The Dorman one is a lot worse. Thanks for watching