I just did this job on my sienna. The most pain in the butt job I’ve ever done. Five weeks on these small ramps I’ve got in my driveway. That long, because I kept telling myself “Needs more penetrating oil!” Serious procrastinator here! But seriously; the cut-down to 1 5/8 deep socket idea was the secret weapon that got the job done. Thanks much! … Now, for that damned VVT oil line, before the snow flies!
I learned about this part problem on my 07 sienna at 200k miles, asked the mechanic during a brake job to check and it had already been replaced, thank goodness.
I had to do this on my 2011 highlander yesterday. I got the same part at my local Toyota dealer for $99. The longer socket worked for me combined with a universal joint adapter. Pain in the ass, but it’s all done now. And yes I agree, Toyota should’ve made it with the metal pieces from factory.
Outstanding info. I couldn’t have done it if I didn’t know about your cut down craftsman socket. I couldn’t find a single, or even full set of craftsman sockets, but our local Runnings store had a single deep socket marked “Pro-Grade 13712”that worked perfectly after it was cut down. I’ve since been informed that SNAP-ON makes a set of mid length sockets, as you essentially have when you cut down your own deep socket. I know about standard sockets, and deep sockets, but mid length is new to me.
This was definitely a PITA. Thanks for the diy. FWIW I was able to get the crappy nut. (You know which one) off with a stubby 12mm ratcheting combination wrench. DIY OR DIE 🤘🏼
I got a HUSKEY 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket from Home Depot for about $4. It is 2" long and has a long hex depth. I first cut to 1-5/8 as suggested. I found I need to cut further to 1-1/2 (I ended up to be 1-7/16 after I polished the cut surface) and it fits all six nuts and bolts perfectly and, more important, easily. Thank you for your video and very useful suggestion.
Did this last year. 3 hrs, not that bad compared to doing lower control arms. Or doing the spark plugs. Surprisingly my 12mm socket from harbor freight I bought years ago for perfectly in that tight spot. Off course I did my research before buying a used sienna so I know what I need to fix going in.
Yep, this is the repair kit listed in the TSB. “04004-“ prefix items are TSB repair kits - you won’t find them in the parts catalog. $77.55 MSRP 12/15/23. You can find it online for ~$55.
Hey friend, any recommendations, I have a 2011 Siena, it has a leak in the transfer case, I already bought a new one and put it in, change the seals on the front axle and it still continues to leak oil and I have looked for it everywhere and it always comes from there and it has been disassembled already 3 You see putting everything right in its place and it always leaks. What else do you think it could be? That's just where it leaks. We've already reviewed it with my nephew and we're still finding out what it could be.
I appreciate you making this video. I have a 2010 sienna that has under 100,000 miles so I may run into this issue soon. Rather than replacing the $160 metal piece with the two rubber hoses.. couldn't you buy a standard rubber automotive oil hose of the same diameter, cut it to the correct length and use a couple stainless steel hose brackets to secure it? I think Toyota and Autozone said they don't carry that specific hose because it's not a unique hose/part. It looks to be an ordinary rubber automotive hose that you can find everywhere and buy by the inch and cut to your specifications.
The first time mine sprung a leak I replaced the rubber hose with a comparable hose from autozone. It can be done, but honestly was a huge hassle trying to get the hose clamps on and off. Hindsight I wish I would’ve just replaced the whole thing the first time instead of just doing the hose. That being said, if you’re on a budget and don’t mind cursing a lot, replacing the rubber hoses works :-) as long as you can find a hose that matches. A couple years ago I found one, but this time I couldn’t find anything that worked, which prompted my trip to the dealer where they said they don’t sell the hose, just the new all metal manifold.
@@diydoesnthavetosuck9573 Gotcha, that makes sense. It's crazy they sell the all metal manifold. I wonder why that part wasn't installed originally in the factory..
@@neildelacruz105 I'm guessing they didn't know it would fail so frequently, but when they discovered the high part failure rate, they redesigned the replacement so it wouldn't have the same problem. Annoying it wasn't caught before, but I'm happy to have the better part installed now :-)
I found the same part at my local dealer for $99. Shop around, maybe buy one ahead of time and replace during your next oil change, as a preventative measure.
One reason for failure of the rubber hose, and switch to the all metal; high heat! On my 2007 sienna, the hoses run right by my catalytic converter. Who thought that was a good idea?!
If you're lucky its the oil cooler lines. Unlucky its the rear timing chain gasket and system uptake. costs $4-5k to repair. And no the driveway Mechanic cannot do it. Engine needs be dropped fron bottom and almost entire engine torn down. And if you also unlunky headgasket could be bad adding another $3k. Which most people junk the car rather than spend $4k-8k on repairs. Most time the toyotas v6 develop these problems 150k miles and more. The sienna is still a very good minivan. Just as gets old, it will fall apart
I just did this job on my sienna. The most pain in the butt job I’ve ever done. Five weeks on these small ramps I’ve got in my driveway. That long, because I kept telling myself “Needs more penetrating oil!” Serious procrastinator here! But seriously; the cut-down to 1 5/8 deep socket idea was the secret weapon that got the job done. Thanks much! …
Now, for that damned VVT oil line, before the snow flies!
I learned about this part problem on my 07 sienna at 200k miles, asked the mechanic during a brake job to check and it had already been replaced, thank goodness.
I had to do this on my 2011 highlander yesterday. I got the same part at my local Toyota dealer for $99. The longer socket worked for me combined with a universal joint adapter. Pain in the ass, but it’s all done now. And yes I agree, Toyota should’ve made it with the metal pieces from factory.
Outstanding info. I couldn’t have done it if I didn’t know about your cut down craftsman socket. I couldn’t find a single, or even full set of craftsman sockets, but our local Runnings store had a single deep socket marked “Pro-Grade 13712”that worked perfectly after it was cut down. I’ve since been informed that SNAP-ON makes a set of mid length sockets, as you essentially have when you cut down your own deep socket. I know about standard sockets, and deep sockets, but mid length is new to me.
Awesome! Glad it helped! Great info about Snap on too, thanks!
This was definitely a PITA. Thanks for the diy. FWIW I was able to get the crappy nut. (You know which one) off with a stubby 12mm ratcheting combination wrench. DIY OR DIE 🤘🏼
An excellent video. Appreciate the intro on the tools that are needed.
I got a HUSKEY 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket from Home Depot for about $4. It is 2" long and has a long hex depth. I first cut to 1-5/8 as suggested. I found I need to cut further to 1-1/2 (I ended up to be 1-7/16 after I polished the cut surface) and it fits all six nuts and bolts perfectly and, more important, easily. Thank you for your video and very useful suggestion.
Did this last year. 3 hrs, not that bad compared to doing lower control arms. Or doing the spark plugs. Surprisingly my 12mm socket from harbor freight I bought years ago for perfectly in that tight spot. Off course I did my research before buying a used sienna so I know what I need to fix going in.
Get genuine part for cheaper. For example from EB Toyota: oil cooler pipe kit (pipe and two gaskets) part# 04004-29131, $56.41 (2/18/23)
Yep, this is the repair kit listed in the TSB. “04004-“ prefix items are TSB repair kits - you won’t find them in the parts catalog. $77.55 MSRP 12/15/23. You can find it online for ~$55.
Toyota updated the part to the one you're showing in your video, but it was never been a recall. I had to pay the dealership out of my pocket.
What year was it updated?
2019 sienna 225000 miles and the hose finally. Got my assembly from Rock Auto $58 with shipping. Ever place in town wanted over a $100 for it.
Those studs are E8 socket to remove
Are there not short sockets for the job?
Does the oil need to be drained from the oil pan first? Or can the oil cooler line be replaced with a full oil pan without 5 qts of oil spilling out?
Do you know if a 2008 Lexus ES350 has an oil cooler?
Hey friend, any recommendations, I have a 2011 Siena, it has a leak in the transfer case, I already bought a new one and put it in, change the seals on the front axle and it still continues to leak oil and I have looked for it everywhere and it always comes from there and it has been disassembled already 3 You see putting everything right in its place and it always leaks. What else do you think it could be? That's just where it leaks. We've already reviewed it with my nephew and we're still finding out what it could be.
Thanks
I appreciate you making this video. I have a 2010 sienna that has under 100,000 miles so I may run into this issue soon. Rather than replacing the $160 metal piece with the two rubber hoses.. couldn't you buy a standard rubber automotive oil hose of the same diameter, cut it to the correct length and use a couple stainless steel hose brackets to secure it? I think Toyota and Autozone said they don't carry that specific hose because it's not a unique hose/part. It looks to be an ordinary rubber automotive hose that you can find everywhere and buy by the inch and cut to your specifications.
The first time mine sprung a leak I replaced the rubber hose with a comparable hose from autozone. It can be done, but honestly was a huge hassle trying to get the hose clamps on and off. Hindsight I wish I would’ve just replaced the whole thing the first time instead of just doing the hose. That being said, if you’re on a budget and don’t mind cursing a lot, replacing the rubber hoses works :-) as long as you can find a hose that matches. A couple years ago I found one, but this time I couldn’t find anything that worked, which prompted my trip to the dealer where they said they don’t sell the hose, just the new all metal manifold.
@@diydoesnthavetosuck9573 Gotcha, that makes sense. It's crazy they sell the all metal manifold. I wonder why that part wasn't installed originally in the factory..
@@neildelacruz105 I'm guessing they didn't know it would fail so frequently, but when they discovered the high part failure rate, they redesigned the replacement so it wouldn't have the same problem. Annoying it wasn't caught before, but I'm happy to have the better part installed now :-)
I found the same part at my local dealer for $99. Shop around, maybe buy one ahead of time and replace during your next oil change, as a preventative measure.
One reason for failure of the rubber hose, and switch to the all metal; high heat! On my 2007 sienna, the hoses run right by my catalytic converter. Who thought that was a good idea?!
If you're lucky its the oil cooler lines.
Unlucky its the rear timing chain gasket and system uptake. costs $4-5k to repair. And no the driveway Mechanic cannot do it. Engine needs be dropped fron bottom and almost entire engine torn down. And if you also unlunky headgasket could be bad adding another $3k. Which most people junk the car rather than spend $4k-8k on repairs.
Most time the toyotas v6 develop these problems 150k miles and more. The sienna is still a very good minivan. Just as gets old, it will fall apart
tHANK YOU
Please because it leaks even if I have changed the seals and the transfer of toyota sienna 2011