2018 Yukon Denali with P257D code. I just did the component test on the installed hood latch. Open and closed the reading was in the 700s. I bought a new latch today and it is the same. Am I missing something?
I had the P257F code in a 2019 Tahoe and everything checked out OK at the component level but my latch was still bad. When the readings at the component level are bad the switch is definitely bad but if all the readings are good the latch can still be bad. I suspect it is one or both of the 2 diodes in the switch that failed. This would allow the correct resistance readings outside of the complete circuit and fail within the live circuit. You can use 10 cent resistors to check this before spending any money on components.
some get engine light on because that third wire (yellow in your case) goes to the Engine control module. while the red goes to the body control module. Run a nominal 730ohm resistor from yellow to that to the ground wire. 730 is not a standard resistor value. without experimentation, a 680ohm will likely work. but you could put a 680+47ohm resistor in series. a 2.7ohm and a 1k in parallel makes 730ohm exactly
Brian just did some troubleshooting on my neighbors daughters car an 06 CRV. Battery went dead and she has had to. Jump it numerous time and then finally died. He purchased a new battery and guess what it was dead. Returned got another battery he installed it and car did absolutely nothing. No power at all so he asked me to look at it. Yup no power. I ask if someone jumped it backwards he said no. Well it turns out it was the main 100A fuse in under hood fuse box. Now fuses don’t blow for no reason. If it wasn’t from jumping incorrectly then the problem is still present so will see what happens. I don’t think he’s telling me the whole story but I hope it don’t blow on again because the fuse was unavailable at the parts stores and he purchased the last one from the local Honda dealer. Everything under the hood from battery cables to many corroded connectors not good but he is not a maintainer. Thanks for sharing your exploits. Will see what happens !!!!!! 👍
Over engineered crap. Why can’t they just leave some things alone without any unnecessary electrical stuff that’s prone to go bad. You shouldn’t have any issues with the hood latch beside getting sticky from the salt 😂 keep them videos coming Brian.
I have this code. My 2018 Silverado LT 4.3L V6 4x4 crew. With 119,900 has been amazing. No problems. Except I have had to remove and clean the hood latch switch several times, about every other year, it seems now it is so mad it is showing my engine light…
Sometimes with diags, things just so happen to go so smooth!. Glad you had a turn! Thanks for the video!
2018 Yukon Denali with P257D code. I just did the component test on the installed hood latch. Open and closed the reading was in the 700s. I bought a new latch today and it is the same. Am I missing something?
I had the P257F code in a 2019 Tahoe and everything checked out OK at the component level but my latch was still bad. When the readings at the component level are bad the switch is definitely bad but if all the readings are good the latch can still be bad. I suspect it is one or both of the 2 diodes in the switch that failed. This would allow the correct resistance readings outside of the complete circuit and fail within the live circuit. You can use 10 cent resistors to check this before spending any money on components.
some get engine light on because that third wire (yellow in your case) goes to the Engine control module. while the red goes to the body control module. Run a nominal 730ohm resistor from yellow to that to the ground wire. 730 is not a standard resistor value. without experimentation, a 680ohm will likely work. but you could put a 680+47ohm resistor in series. a 2.7ohm and a 1k in parallel makes 730ohm exactly
Brian just did some troubleshooting on my neighbors daughters car an 06 CRV. Battery went dead and she has had to. Jump it numerous time and then finally died. He purchased a new battery and guess what it was dead. Returned got another battery he installed it and car did absolutely nothing. No power at all so he asked me to look at it. Yup no power. I ask if someone jumped it backwards he said no. Well it turns out it was the main 100A fuse in under hood fuse box. Now fuses don’t blow for no reason. If it wasn’t from jumping incorrectly then the problem is still present so will see what happens. I don’t think he’s telling me the whole story but I hope it don’t blow on again because the fuse was unavailable at the parts stores and he purchased the last one from the local Honda dealer. Everything under the hood from battery cables to many corroded connectors not good but he is not a maintainer. Thanks for sharing your exploits. Will see what happens !!!!!! 👍
Hi Arthur, good luck with that and keep us posted. 100A fuse usually dont blow by themselves!
Over engineered crap. Why can’t they just leave some things alone without any unnecessary electrical stuff that’s prone to go bad. You shouldn’t have any issues with the hood latch beside getting sticky from the salt 😂 keep them videos coming Brian.
yeah its all a bit much! Its the way its all going keeping us on our toes!
I have this code. My 2018 Silverado LT 4.3L V6 4x4 crew. With 119,900 has been amazing. No problems. Except I have had to remove and clean the hood latch switch several times, about every other year, it seems now it is so mad it is showing my engine light…
😂 I had that same problem at work the other day after some knuckle head changed a battery a few days before
Lol crazy right, I wonder if manufacturer just trying to get fuse protection as close to b+ as possible.?
Dang Gremlins