The ONLY thing that is going to save your 6L80E transmission is to remove the factory GM TRASH torque converter and replace it with an after-market, welded together inside, billet torque converter. Otherwise.... if you don't do that... there is NOTHING on Gods green earth that is going to prevent torque converter/transmission failure. We build MORE of these units every single day, than any other transmission. I'll give you a hint.. It's not the heat that kills the GM converters.. Cut one open and you will see immediately why they fail. It's because GM set them up at the factory to fail... to generate more $$ for themselves. Every unit we rebuild, we install our own by-pass valve that we manufacture here at our shop along with a Precision BILLET torque converter. For those of you that want to do this thermostatic block mod-I sell the valve for $5.00 + shipping. You can install it in under 30 minutes. It will guarantee that ALL fluid will go out to the cooler, and then back to the transmission, with none of the hot fluid being recirculated. It will NOT stop your GM torque converter from failing though.. he gives GREAT information-SWAP OUT THE GM torque converter! Do it NOW if you have not already done it! Or if it's not too late? We have FAILED 6L80's coming in as early as 60K miles.. with many in the 80K mile range, and a lot in the 120K range.. If you wait to remove the GM converter-you may come to regret that decision. To get the thermostat OUT of the aluminum housing-come in at a 90 degree angle with SIDE CUTTERS and squeeze them such that the jaws are bitting into the nipple in the center, and then push the handles down against the thermostat body, thereby lifting the plug out of the housing. Just be sure the sharp jaws bite into the nipple on the plug, and then it will come right out. It does not hurt to use a little WD-40 to get down to the O-ring before prying it out.. But even without the WD, it will still pop right out with the side cutter sharp jaws biting the center nipple.
Very good summary! I would definitely recommend changing the torque converter as well. I changed mine at 108K proactively. I plan to change it again around 200K. From your experience do you know if the 6l90 torque converter is better? That's what I replaced mine with on the 6L80
@@bendino9016 Are you sure you have the 6L80 or 6L90? It was still possible to have the 4L60E in 2011-IF you have a 4.8L engine. If you really got 225K miles-then rejoice and be happy as that seems to be a pretty rare occurrence. Not impossible, but fairly rare. Keep in mind as a shop we ONLY see the ones that fail, and most of those are coming in as early as 60K miles, with the average being between 115K-125K, and sometimes we will see them as high as 175K... But... there must be a bunch of them out there that are doing better mileage wise... but we don't see them.
Hi Go69, ?, hey I can not find any way to get a hold of you to buy the bypass valve you have for sale?, and i am ready to install the billet converter, have you got a place for me to buy a good one?, lots of em online, but what do you reccomend?, any way to reach you? Thanks😊
I bought this kit. It works as advertised. Even my local GM dealer told me to IMMEDIATELY install a cooler bypass kit so the cooler works ALL the time. They really didn't care from whom I purchased it from. GM knows they have this problem but no recall.
Recalls are almost always only to do with safety concerns causing major injuries or death. Known issues get covered under warranty or a TSB. Nothing says after warranty they need to a recall if items are just failing.
@@TheSundaeDrive I just installed this setup exactly how the instructions say to, double checked everything but I noticed a ticking sound coming from the bottom of the truck when I turned it on. Got any ideas why that is? The truck is a 2016 Silverado with 56k miles.
My 2014 Sierra had same issue, ran 196f everyday with a load. I ordered the kit, did the install, happy to say it has been running 150's on highway during cold weather without a load... so far a really low cost remedy using the kit. Thanks for the video.
Cliff-thanks for this video. I went with the Sure Cool STL010 and it works as advertised. I installed this yesterday on my 2014 Silverado LTZ. Prior to this install, my transmission routinely ran at 192 degrees on the highway; I just returned from a 50 mile round trip and it ran between 144 and 149 degrees on the interstate at 70 mph (outside temperature in the low 80’s); highest reading in stop and go traffic in the city was 158 degrees. One word of caution for those with the original bypass with the wire clips like Cliff shows in the video; pay close attention to the orientation of the clips when you remove them; they only go on one way and if you don’t get it right, the lines will blow off the bypass and you will have a mess in your driveway (learned that lesson the hard way). Other than that one issue, very easy install and I am hoping it will make my transmission last much longer.
@@martyketelaar5277 I have been having hard down shifts,... maybe I already have damage? I changed my transmission fluid at 100k and I didn't have any shavings though
Glad to see a video that actually shows how wrong some of this type of work can actually go. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. No doubt you saved a lot of people a lot of $$$.
Installed this in my 2016 Silverado, it worked! But then I traded the truck in for a RAM as I waisted thousands on new valves, camshaft and radiator. Chevy lots my trust completely. But again the Superior Solution kit worked great.
I just installed this bypass last week. What a difference. Example: this past spring at -5c highway driving temp was +85-90c. Now at +20c highway driving temp reaches +50-55c. Awesome sure cool product
I just did the superior internals replacement. Took me about 45 minutes. Thanks for the recommendation I never owned a vehicle with a trans temperature reading before, but when I started seeing 190 on my 2014 z71 (no cargo or trailer) I was pretty sure that was ridiculously high. Found & fixed yet another GM blunder.
@@ntme9WRONG. Keep running the weak OEM 6L80 / 8L80 trannie's at those ridiculously high temps and watch your torque converter IMPLODE and ruin the pump, followed by the entire transmission...fck around and find out!
I have done the "pill flip" on my 2017 6L80. I'm not sure if I understood your term "bypass is always closed" correctly. My understanding is, when flipping the pill, the bypass is aways opened, allowing the transmission fluid to flow to the radiator cooler all the time, with no shut off. This will allow your transmission to run much like the older generation transmission 4L60. My truck transmission now runs much cooler (120-155 deg F) all the time, even when I go from 2000' elevation up to Mt Mitchell @ 6684'. HEAT KILLS TRANSMISSION FLUID, which in-turn, will wear out your transmission. Thanks for the video, it's very informative & I hope that I didn't post incorrect info.
@@edwardvalencia291 I don't know. I did the pill flip shortly after buying my truck. With the pill flip your transmission should run pretty much as the temperature of the pre K2xx models, as they never had the temperature control valve. They all ran straight to the radiator heat exchanger. IMO, the only reason these were added was increase MPG by making an already thinner ATF thiner via higher temperature. Didn't matter if it destroyed the torque converter/transmission in the process
Thank you for the shout out on our very unique Sure~Cool® systems, nice video, thank you! Superior’s TransLab Engineered Sure~Cool® systems technology is patent and patent pending. Our Properitary designs STL009 / STL020 (ford types) and the STL010 for GM6L80/8L90/ L5P Allison uses a dynamically active Lube~Loop™ that keeps the bypass full flowing / open on startup, and still provides a safety bypass system that will Lube~Loop™ back to the parts and internals. You plug it, or Flip a pellet, what you got? A nightmare if the system ever needs to “kick the Bypass on” when needed in cold temps or any restriction to flow from the coolers and lines… our system uses the viscosity (thickness of ATF / Oil ) when extreme cold temps experienced to unseat the ball and allow bypass oil back into the transmission until flow rates stabilize and resistance to flow is overcome.
@@Sax6thAve123 yes the verdict, no matter what gm tries to do, the part is flawed due to the pellet design sticking, due to, A. Heat B. Contamination C. External damage to lines or coolers, will still allow open bypass to use lube loop™ the circuits and allow flow thru the bypass
@@superiortransmissionpartsi5357 I just installed your kit today and rode around town this cooler evening. I was averaging 170’ish with the GM 150’ thermostat and hit 144’ this evening on my quick test with your kit. Hoping it stays this way tomorrow. Quick question: If my radiator is running 190’ from the engine heat and my tranny fluid is ‘being cooled’ by the radiator, won’t the engine heat conductively increase the tranny temp on longer runs?? Somewhat of a backwards way to look at this issue but I’m not positive that this can’t happen. Thoughts?
@@Sax6thAve123 you are correct, on vehicles with the in tank (radiator) trans cooler are actually a heat exchanger. It dissipates heat to the cooler side. OR warmth to the colder side (In colder temps) and in cold climates acts as a pre-heater to the transmission atf passing thru the heat exchanger/ in tank cooler. In hot weather the trans cooler will run about 175 or lower as the secondary air to air cooler is now cooling both, mainly the Transmission and what I call scrubbing off the the difference of temp from eng vs transmission. Also the air to air cooler needs to be 2.5 to 3 x larger in sq. Area so you have better heat dissipation thru the fins or plates of the external cooler vs. a heat exchanger via the tank.
Just a suggestion about removing the bypass since heat doesn’t help, especially since aluminum is soft. Put the whole thermal unit in the freezer for a couple of hours. When you remove it I’d use a 10mm socket with an extension place the socket over the center of the bypass Make sure everything is flat and square on the table, give it a good solid tap with a hammer a couple of times and that should break it loose. With the good pair of needle nose pliers or lien men’s pliers that bypass should come right out w/no problems! I had a similar situation when rebuilding an old Harley engine trying to remove an old woodruff key that was fused in tight and when I tapped it a couple of times w/the hammer it popped right out!!! Better luck next time!!! Great video very helpful! I need to do the same thing on my 2009ltz Silverado. I love this stuff! TY
Or an air compressor blow off gun with the rubber tip on it and jam it in the higher port. Shop towel in your hand over the part so it doesn't shoot into low earth orbit. That's how you free a really stuck brake piston. May have to plug the lower port if the check allows reverse flow. Also that drilling at the top of the cavity can very well tear an o ring on install and cause leaks now or later. Not internet BS, I've got 5 years of hydraulic manifold design in the books and I've seen it a lot. Either way thanks for the video. I didn't have mine apart and wanted to see the cartridge assembly.
Omfg. I finally found a "hot to fix/avoid" page that actually gives you the answer without it being a 45 minute long clip and 30 minutes of useless drama. I will continue to like any video you post up.
I just completed this upgrade using the sure cool kit. It took about an hour because mine was seized just like the video. Using a vice I kept hitting the top piston with a brass hammer and it finally broke free using vise grips to wiggle it out. Thanks for the video.
@@TheSundaeDrive Do you know why GM started installing this thermostat? Could it be bypassed, and be like it's on older trucks, which does not have it?
A late entry, but maybe it will help someone glancing through that has seized internals in the housing. If you look on side of housing there is an allen screw. When removed it reveals a port where you see thermostat spring. You can use a small flat head to pry internals upward. Just keep hand over top cause internals can pop out suddenly.
Just purchased a 2016 Sierra with 95K miles. CarFax shows transmission replacement at 93K. I ordered the Superior Solutions kit just yesterday. Hopefully this will prevent the new tranny from failing on me. This is my first GM truck and I’m loving it so far. Your channel has been very informative.
Beware of GMs trans Warranty. 6k for 1yr unlimited mile warranty. The info they don’t share is they aren’t built to last 100k miles SMH. This Mod as many others will only buy you Faith. I am a full GM guy. My best advice is overhauling. Find a race shop that is what I did. 4x4 6l80 rated for 650Whp. You wouldn’t believe gas mileage on 35s W/O tune! Ps 17 city 26mpg FW 🦍 highly recommend this mans video for My Desert Rats 🥊
Adding the Sure-Cool system is the single best thing I ever did for our 2015 Suburban! It took all of 30 minutes to install and haven't seen temps above 160, even while towing.
I've got a 14 Silverado with 80k miles on it so far. No issues with the trans so far but I plan to do this once it finally stays warm in here in KY. I want to keep this truck running as long as possible haha! Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it!
Shops don't Wana replace just the torque converter they always claim the transmission got "destroyed". I can testify to this, my 6l80 shuddered for couple thousand miles than stopped moving completely, never slipped or shifted hard, me and my brother replaced the torque converter, changed the oil and filter 2 times now it drives like a dream. The oil pan and magnet had flakes and metal dust, about a cupful.
Currently in the process of doing this upgrade. I live in rusty NH. I was able to get my old thermostat out by doing some PB blaster after I got the snap ring out. Let it sit for like 30min. Tapped the top with a hammer and punch. Then I used some map gas for about a minute. The thermostat slowly pushed itself up and shot out like two feet into the air, so be careful.
Thanks for this information. I watched this vid several times this past week in anticipation of doing this to my 2014 4WD Silverado after the upcoming easter holiday. None of the local mechanics wanted to touch it. It's a small town so there's only a few. The truck also needs the transmission fluid and filter changed. It's cold where we live and I don't drive this much - 48K miles on the truck - but the past two times I drove it to town it started to wobble for a few seconds when shifting after I hit the highway. I thought it might be tire related but after doing some research I found out it's likely the torque converter. At any rate, I had to order everything including the tranny fluid. I plan to install the kit first and then drain the pan and as much fluid as I can before I remove it and change the filter. I also ordered a replacement pan with a drain plug. I'm hoping changing the fluid and filter fixes the torque converter wobble. And I assume the bypass kit will fix the high operating temperature.
Nice video. Just did my STL010 install. The front driveshaft blocks access, so I removed the 13mm bolt first to separate the block from the case and then could flex the pipes a bit to get good access to the 10mm bolt and pull out the pipes. The old innards were not coming out of the block so as someone else said, you can use a screwdriver in the upper side hole to get the old piston moving up and out. Reinstalled, used a new gasket, no leaks. This is one of the must does for these transmissions. The other being to reprogram (e.g. hp tuners and vcm suite) to prevent torque lockup in 1 through 4 and 0 rpm slip in 5 and 6.
I have a 2017 Sierra crew cab 4x4 with about 35k miles on it. Will definitely do the update to hopefully give it a longer life. I may replace the o-rings on the lines at the same time for a safer measure. I have heard of times where reusing old o-rings may not seal correctly leading to leaking.
Thanks for the great video, I have a 2018 crew cab, bought the new GM updated bypass valve took 10 minutes to do the swap, the Canadian equivalent is part #8559533 and was $130 at the dealership took my temp from 90C to 60C And now I’m waiting on a quote to Replace the 6L80 torque converter to a 6L90 torque converter
I believe it was an Earls plumbing bypass that I used with a motion raceworks trans cooler. Temps rarely crest 130 in my '15. Highly recommend, because in the end, the 1/2 mpg gain from running 190 will not be worth it when the converter grenades your tranny.
Appreciate the video, my temp ran about 190-195 on regular around town and 200-210 on highway. Install took about 10 minutes for me and temp around town about 140 in Florida weather and just traveled to Georgia and did not get Over 180 averaged 165-175..😊
Everyone should at least have the Superior Sure Cool install on their 14-15 silverado. Installed the mishimoto external transmission cooler along with the sure cool and temps never saw 180 and up ever again. Now fluctuates between 120-140 on highway and stop and go traffic, also ran both throughout negative degrees weather here in the Midwest and still holding up strong.
@ 70k Miles my 14s plate popped right off with some penetrating oil and some channel locks. Probably didn't need the oil. I flipped the pill. I live in LA so the trans should always cycle IMO. HUGE THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!
"The Finest Kind" As they say in New England States. An Excellent Video and Description, every Option Shown, along with reading every reply The Most Comprehensive Video Out there today. Thank you.....
I installed the sure cool thermal bypass valve.Works for me on my 2015 Silverado. I also installed an extra large engine oil cooler.Change your Water radiator thermostat to a 180 degree or cooler.My Truck is so cool now.
Thanks man, I believe this will really help keep the temp down on my 2014 Suburban with the 6L80E transmission. I live in the desert so heat is the enemy for a lot of things on these vehicles. The rubber tends to dry rot as well…
Just learned the hard way! 2014 Silverado failed at 120k Has a “ Certified “ now. All the upgrades and billet converter . Now waiting for that tap , tap tap!!
I have an LT1/6L80 out of a 2014 Silverado from TX. It's in my 37 Chev PU. Even vehicles from the south have corrosion. When I went to separate the engine from the transmission, I struggled. PB Blaster and patience finally won out, but the dowel in the engine remained in the transmission. A little more PB and time and I was able to drive it out and reinstall in the engine.
I had my transmission grenade at 98k miles. Cost me about $5k and they didn’t throw the new bypass in. I’ve been changing my fluid every 30k miles since then and at 148k I’m gonna change this out. Thank you
If you have the older style transmission cooler lines, I believe you can swap the internals from the NEW revised housing and install them in your existing housing as well. That's a solution for those who obviously wouldn't want to replace all of their cooler lines unnecessarily.
@@TheSundaeDrive Me neither - I just swapped the entire housing, as I had the newer style lines that are secured to this thermal bypass housing with a bracket and 1 bolt.
There a tsb from gm on the valve. I had the dealer do it. Went form 190 degree to 145-150. It's worth the money regardless of the route you go. I did the gm route as I have warranty left
First off, thanks for making and sharing this video! GM's replacement valve (86774933) had smaller ports for the hardlines than the valve on my 2020 WT, but the hardline fittings were the same style (no retaining clips). The ports for the hardlines on my valve appeared 2mm larger in diameter. You can swap the internals between GM's replacement valve and the one I had, but I ended up going the Superior internals route instead. The valve on my 6L80 was not stamped with a 70. Also, the o-rings for the hardlines are critical since GM just retains the hardlines in with the metal bracket you mention. If you accidentally mess one up like I did, you'll leak transmission fluid like a sieve and be unable to drive the vehicle. I couldn't find the OEM part number for the o-rings so I just went with what appeared to fit (and was temperature rated), but adding teflon tape around the hardline lip (especially in the inlet port line) works well for a makeshift gasket.
Installed my new valve a few months ago. Temps hover around 150 under normal driving. Easy swap out. No issues. Oh I forgot to mention run AMSOIL Signature too
I installed the sure cool kit last summer and was really happy with my temp. Hit wintertime (I’m in north NJ) and was seeing under 100 degrees on a 45+ min drive.. just a heads up to all of our northern friends.. the updated GM part might be the best option
Hey brother. I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT. I bought it with 65,000 miles on it, truck came from Rochester Ny so obviously the chassis rust stuff was there and lemme tell ya if I’d watched the 25 things plus the 12 other videos I wouldn’t have bought the truck. Every car has there Achilles Heels. Now after 4 months the truck has 73k and I have absolutely zero regrets about buying my Silverado! It runs amazing, it runs hard, I don’t beat on it but my last car was A 2016 Audi S5 and I drive it just as hard. Spirited driving! Anyway i car faxed my truck and the only other owner kept up on all the services. Now finally my point! I have been worried about my transmission temp and wanted to perform the fix in the above video but I think it’s already been done. My transmission temp never ever goes over 194 degrees! Has my solenoid been messed with?
awesome! glad you are enjoying the truck! I also love mine despite some of the headaches. If it is getting up to 194 the bypass upgrade has not been done yet. It should not go above 160-170 after the upgrade
I did this upgrade after the billet full rebuild transmission I had done well at the same time. An I’ll tell you mine also would sit around 193+ just sitting an I knew from experience that’s pretty high. Since the bypass I been sitting at 160 it’ll go up under certain conditions but goes back down . Works great
I feel your pain bro I have a 71,000 mile 2015 Chevy 1500 and my converter had split apart on me going to work and send metal shavings all threw my transmission so there a fix to this u new to upgrade the lines to a bigger diameter this problem only happens when you go full throttle
Thank you for putting this out! I did this bypass on my 2014 because the temperatures were reaching 208 degrees without a load and the dealerships will tell you until they are blue in the face thats "its normal" for the transmission to be that hot. What a joke. It definitely brought my temperatures down to 125-150 degrees but I think my internals took too much damage and so now the temperatures fluctuate depending on the temperature outside. If it's cold, it runs great. If it's hot, it kinda struggles. I also installed a Mishimoto Trans-Cooler and honestly I believe that's the only thing keeping my transmission from blowing. I'm looking into upgrading all the internals including the pump and torque converter just because I get sketched out just driving it nowadays. I would love to hear options or any further advice about internals. Again thank you for your videos!
I definitely would recommend swapping the torque converter but haven't heard to much about the pump failing on its own. The pump normally fails because the torque converter shreds and clogs it
@@zachariahwoodside4048 nd i get scared mine going over 207 eventhoe its a rebuild trans butt im definitely getting that kit i live in texas houston to be exact and being on the freeway when theres traffic and constantly going and stoping bring my temp no more than 209 so i do need it
Just installed the gm bypass on a 2016 Silverado. Make sure you have both “o” rings on the trans lines when you connect it to the new bypass. If not, ATF EVERYWHERE
What are the normal temps you’ve been seeing with the revised bypass from GM? My 2018 w 62k miles TC went out and dealership replaced TC along w valve bodies, gaskets, seals, etc through warranty. Also identified no scarring to pump. Just been paranoid about where my readings should be at. Thank you!
For thirty thousand miles, I drove with the original setup. Afterwards I put the bypass on. Before that my temperatures were reaching upwards to 200. now they rarely get over 160. I dropped my fluid quite regularly and I'm going to today, but it's always pink
Excellent video, thanks. My 2014 Silverado trans went out (nearly $4k), I bought it used...and had no idea trans failures were so common with GM trucks of the era...I have since bought an awesome 2016 Suburban LTZ...and will be making this change. Heat is the enemy...what were they thinking?!?!?
I used the Superior Solutions kit because my 2014 Sierra 1500 has the first design valve with the clips and I didn't want to replace the lines. Before doing the modification the trans temp ran at 190 to 195 with no load on the truck. After the modification it runs at 150 with no load and I just got back from a camping trip towing a 24' camper. Going down the road at a steady speed with the trans in manual 5 and using the tow mode the temp stayed at 170. The highest it got was 180 while going through towns in traffic. Even if you don't load the truck or tow with it, it's worth the investment. I just wish you could purchase the kit directly from Superior Solutions. I was able to find an actual transmission shop online to make my purchase because I've had bad experiences with E Bay.
Installed the global bypass in my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 definitely help out a lot stay around 155f highway on a cold day and on hot day stays around 175f
Thx for video put that thermal thing in went from 194 average to 177. Dealer parts guy never heard of it I bought the parts they installed it. I’m getting to old, put front shocks in , kicked my butt(I’m 68 now)Truck has 58,000 miles also had them change trans oil. Saving up to put new torque converter. Keeping this truck till I die, they cost a fortune now, lol oh I put prolong in my engine, hopefully keep those lifters well lubed.
I just did the superior solutions bypass and I guess it runs cooler. My temp still got up to 180 even after the switch. It’s between 80-90 outside but I figured it would work better.
I just did mine about an hour ago. I would see 201-210 driving out to the lake here in Arizona every time. I just made the same trip and the highest it got was 196 but I was driving really aggressively. It got back down to 180 degrees 10 minutes later so I would say the bypass is a success.
Also, after you do the bypass, I got a billet torque converter from O’Reillys’s for like a couple hundred bucks and I’ve had zero issues with my transmission sense
The transmission went on my 2013 Sierra at ~184,000 miles. The trans was slipping, and then overheated within 3 miles of where I was taking it. The trans was rebuilt, the torque converter was replaced, the TOC lines were replaced, the radiator was replaced and so was the external TOC. I haven't had a transmission go in over 30 years so it was a shock when it happened. I am religious about changing trans fluid every 40,000 miles, but even that didn't help.
I deleted my thermostat when i purchased my 2014 chevy new and also my 2021 gmc. I changed the fluids every 30k miles on both. 2014 is at 210k miles and its my work truck. Still shifting strong. My 2021 gmc is at 150k and is my towing pig. Also shifting strong. My brother rebuilds these everyother day and he recommended i do this if i want the transmission to last and they have.
Great video. FWIW, I went from the factory thermostat setup to the superior solutions kit and have mixed feelings on it. Since I live in the northeast, trans temps struggled to get to 100-110 after driving for a while on very cold days. I'm planning on keeping th is set up until next winter then will probably swap in the revised 158 degree thermostat. If you're in a continually warmer area then definitely run the superior solutions kit.
Any updates on the cold region temp effects? I’m in the DC area and trying to decide between the two options as well but haven’t have the same concerns for in the colder months. 2017 z71
@@VAlien79 in DC you should be OK with the bypass, but don't take my word for it 100%. You can swap it out quick so if it runs too cold you can put the stock one back . I'm in CT and will swap in the newer 158 degree thermostat before winter to replace the bypass kit, just need to do my trans fluid and filter first. In my opinion the 158 is a great option for us who see temperatures under 50 for a good bit of the year. Like I said in my original comment, on my daily commute in the winter I hardly saw 100 degree trans temps.
So I've got a 2014 and I tow a camper and an enclosed trailer a lot during the spring and fall months, Trans Temps get up over 200, and I want to do this mod, what is the part number I need for the new housing? I'll just do a new housing with the shift technology superior solutions kit, want to.do.this asap!
I did the tap method. 1/4” ntp tap i believe? Plugged it off. Going on 2 years and my teps dont get over 168 in stop/go traffic. Average 120-145 on the highway depending on ambient temp.
@9:12 I ended up in this same spot. I ended up drilling a 27/64 hole dead center and used a 1/2 thread tap to thread the hole. My plan was to use a bolt to pull the thing out but it broke loose as I was taping the hole.
the internals of the newer thermostat will fit & Work inside the older style housing so no need to replace the cooler lines, just swap all the internals... That's how i handled this issue on my '14 Sierra almost 6 months ago & no issues, runs within a few degrees of it's 158F rating.
I have watch another person's video on this problem and the components from the new bypass will fit in the old bypass especially if you have the old style of line with the clips.
That is another option too (although I have not verified if that will work). If you are going that route tho I would go with the sure cool mod. It's simpler and less $$
If the cap is seized in the valve body another possible way to free it and get it out is to stick a screwdriver in the oil cooler line hole nearest the cap and pry it up from the inside. It might require the cap to be rotated slightly which is much easier than trying to pull it out by the top 1/4 moon shaped boss!
My 2014 ltz runs at 200 all the time. Pretty ridiculous. I've even seen 205 210 with a 2000lb trailer. I've already had the transmission replaced on warranty. Definitely need this mod a nice converter. Thanks for the content.
I had my 6l80 fail on me at 40,000. the torque converter locked up and I took it to a dealership nearby where it broke and They told me the transmission was fine and put a new converter in and for about 20,000 miles it ran hot and shook all the time then i put the bypass in and it helped for a while but now at 97,000 miles was having issue accelerating to get onto the highway. I changed out the filter and the pan was full of clutch material and I installed a transmission cooler and ever since doesn't get hotter than 150F or shake and is overall runs pretty smooth. also trucks a 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3 LT
I ha d a 2018 Chevy Silverado ,with a 6l80 trans.it can at 195to 205 degrees, in lot the superior solutions,parts and now it runs at 150 degrees, I sprayed the top of mine with on blaster e very day for a week and it came right apart no problem.30 minute job
I bought a 16 with 68,000 with transmission blue at 72k and they covered a remanufactured transmission and they replace the cooler lines and the oil cooler lines all free of charge. Toyota extended warranty on a Chevy but it worked out in my favor. I'm buying one of these immediately.. by the way, it dropped the trans pump just like described. Got up to about 200 something degrees. I put shutter in it. Clean the tube so they wouldn't try to say I did anything and took 2 months and they fixed it. I was in new equinox the whole time. It was like 7,000 but I didn't have to pay not even a deductible. So I want to make sure this transmission will last crossing fingers. I don't s*** a lifter, but maybe I'll take the money I would have spent on the transmission and delete the DOD... Or trade it for a 15 to 17 f150 with a coyote and a 6R80 for possibly 14 to 21 tundra with 5.7... But I literally owned six Chevy trucks. One SUV 1 GMC and I've had one Ford in the past. It was a '87 F-150 with a four-speed manual and a 300 Straight 6 thing was great...
P.S. the one you drilled out, to install the dual o-ringed Sure~Cool, you would just have to clean it up the bore ledge, with some 320, Emory cloth. and GREAT CHOICE>!
I would still note, theirs still has a pellet the thing that sticks and was the reason for tsb 21-NA-199. After you read it you may want to watch out for new tsb's the new ones, placed on old units (doing the swap to the new "updated" block) which still has a pellet is now failing due to contamination from high mileage units and I suspect more coming. Ours can't stick. It's a long story Paul and these tsb's are out. We also had companies from China xerox a cheap copy on Amazy..so get the original.
2014 Silverado 1500, with the older style unit; bought the new part (86774933) and swapped the internals. Luckily enough the older valve came apart quite easy! Took for test-drive and so far so good, thanks for the info. Also what torque setting did you use for the 13mm bolt?
What are the normal temps you’ve been seeing with the revised bypass from GM? My 2018 w 62k miles TC went out and dealership replaced TC along w valve bodies, gaskets, seals, etc through warranty. Also identified no scarring to pump. Just been paranoid about where my readings should be at. Thank you!
Hi. It’s opening at 70°c and staying in the mid 70s when I purposely really loaded the tranny. Saying that it’s been cold here and in a 1 1/2 hour journey it was sitting at 65° hope that helps.
I just Changed my transfer case, front and rear dif fluid, coolant flush and brake flush and FINALLY the STL010 Thermal Bypass mod. 221F before 145F after. DO it ASAP if you have a GM transmission
I have a 2018 GMC Denali and i have the newer style and you said in the video that the Tranny lines would need to be replaced ( why ) and thank you for a great video
@@chevytrifive1 you likely have the 8 speed transmission in a Denali. I have the 8speed in my 17 SLT and I’m wondering what the options are for the 8speeds.
The 4L60e in my 2009 i used to own, used to get hot (hotter than I liked). On a hot day, unloaded, it could easily hit 200-220F on hot days. Even after it was rebuilt and the cooler was flushed, etc. I got a 2018 with the 6L80e and I usually it just hovers between 150-180F regardless of weather/drive distance. Even while hauling whatever out to camp. The truck does not seem to work nearly as hard. RPMs are way down. Every down shift with the 4L60 made the rpms start screaming lol
I have a 2014 myself and added this to my trans about a year ago. So far, I have been really pleased and the kit by shift works great. I am going to run the trans as long as it is working good but after that I will be changing my torque converter to the 8L90 one and installing the upgrade kit made by Sonnax. That kit has very good reviews and from what I have read and also talked to others about it the claims are that it makes that trans almost bullet proof. I have replaced a lot of things on this truck but instead of replacing with oem parts I have gone with all upgrades especially on things that are known to be issues with these trucks.
I just flipped the stock one when I was servicing mine. It never gets above 150 on the highway, maybe 170-ish in traffic. Used to be mid 190's all the time.
My 2017 6.0 3500hd has a straight through block connector to the 6L90 trans cooler lines and so does my 2009 6.2 H2 to the 6L80. Those blocks will bolt up to any 6L80 or 90 and there is no thermostat so that problem is solved with that. Then if you program out the torque converter slip or get rid of lockup all together, the tranny will now last a long time. Upgrade the tranny coolers and take it off of the radiator heat transfer box and it will run cool! I road race my heavy truck and temps are always under 170 even when it’s 105 outside. Add as many coolers as you need to get it to the operating temp that you like.
I have a 12’ 6l80 connected to an lmg iron block (0 on the 8th digit in the vin) Are there specific differences with my year? Compared to the new body styles? (14’and up)
Gonna throw it out there, limited experience thus far. But it put the Shift Solutions kit in mine. It does seem to work... however my truck is a V6 WT, so it doesn't have a stand alone/auxiliary cooler. Just the coolant to oil built-in one in the rad. So my temperatures didn't drop much. However it's been 2 days and haven't towed yet. So time will tell. Thinking I'll end up adding an additional cooler kit.
I use mine just like the old way and run it through a cooler with a fan 100% of the time and it seams to be just fine. I have a “swap” so I haven’t paid much attention to the trans temp because it doesn’t seam to have a problem. I used the ict billet transmission cooler AN fitted adapter. No problem and I’ve dragged raced it the track a few times already… hm going to pay attention to see the temp now
Heat is the killer of TC for sure! The built in transmission coolers are a joke on these trucks. Had the torque converter shudder but not complete failure. So I did the right thing and only swapped to an aftermarket TC from Circle D. Converted my cooler lines to -6AN and added a 40k btu cooler. Fresh fluids and now my trans hardly gets over 120* even in traffic! My wife has a 2011 Suburban with the 6L80 and it has the aux external cooler, and it rarely gets over 150* in traffic and cruises around 125*. Do these mods and add a bigger aux cooler and it will save your transmission from an early death for sure.
@@TheSundaeDrive I haven’t looked into a minimum temp. A quick read suggests 100* above ambient is normal. I said it rarely gets over 120* meaning it hovers right at 120 in all conditions. I have a smaller cooler I could use if it is indeed too cool. Comparing to my wife’s Burb with the 5.3/6l80/4x4 with the HD cooling pkg,, the factory aux cooler is about 1/2 the size of the aux I installed on my truck. However, I am not using either of the two factory coolers in the rad on my truck. The Burb uses the rad and the aux cooler and stays roughly 80* warmer than ambient while cruising on the highway. It will creep up to 180 driving in traffic. Good point on the cool temp, I’ll look into more.
I met a ex GM mechanic, had 15 years with them, he told me that the 2018 Silveraldo and GMC Sierra has more trans and lifters issues than any other year. Very early on, 50k some less need trans work and engine repair. I own a 2014, though 14 was the worse of all. GM decided to go on the clima change crew side and hell with the customers. Sad!
You know what’s even better about a 2014 . Even though it’s a lemon model and has all the problems that plagues this body style , you’ll notice gm tsb and recalls literally avoid that year model. What a coincidence .
@@PoisonShot20 well for example . GM put a tsb out for the new updated thermostat mentioned in this video. But if you read the TSB, 2014 is not a year model that’s mentioned to be affected . Yet I literally have the old thermostat and have already suffered from a burned up transmission at 125k. As far as recalls , there was an issue of leaking fuel pump modules. 2013 Sierra and Silverado’s , 2014 2500s only and 2015 Sierra and silverados . What a coincidence , it skipped my year. Even though every one of them from 2014 to 2017 which is the year it happened has the same part …..I have a screen shot of the TSB I would share it if it was possible . I will definitely have my ear to the forums more on my next truck. If you wait on GM and follow the manual you’ll end up with 10k in repairs in the first 5 years of ownership. They should have recalled the a/c condenser but from my understanding, if it’s not safety related they don’t have to recall it
@@danielsmith8659 Got it! Appreciated that you took your time to explained. As I mentioned, since GM was belled out by Obama, they became a government prostitute, to be right to the point.
@@PoisonShot20 yep tough times for em no doubt. But like I said . had I kept my ear to the forums I could have avoided some of these issues or at least delayed them a reasonable amount.
Just learned about this recently and want to do it on my 2014 GMC Sierra. Glad you put out this video, because now I think want to have a completely rebuilt assembly with gasket ready to swap out. Do you have the part number for the 2014 complete assembly with the clips like yours? I asked my dealer if they could do the Bulletin #21-NA-199 and besides confusing them, they said it wasn't applicable to the 2014/15 models, so they weren't sure if the P/N would fit.
So I found out you can no longer buy our style. I could not even find the part number after searching for awhile. I meant to pull the part number off of mine but forgot. If you do find the part number definitely let me know. Some people don't have issues pulling it out tho.
@@TheSundaeDrive I figured that!! Mine runs 192 most of the time. If I'm towing my tractor or excavator it will go over 200 though but usually around 198....and that's Florida heat.
I just did my 2014 GMC Sierra two weeks ago. Purchased the updated one from GM and didn’t realize that they changed. What actually works is swapping the guts from the new one into the old body. Worked perfect and my tranny runs way cooler now.
I recently purchased a 2016 Chevy 1500 Silverado (85,000 miles) and I've been watching your video's on things that will break. I don't tow anything, drive very fast, always preform regular maintinance, mostly used just for trips to town. I take care of my trucks. After watching many of your video's, I'm afraid I made have made a mistake in buying this truck as I don't want to end up spending tons just to keep it running. How concerned should I be, considering all the things that will break, that I'm going to regret buying this truck? I realize it's all relative to how I use the truck. But I'm scared now!!
I’m pretty sure the 2015-2019 HD Chevy trucks came with the 6L90 transmission which is the same one they are currently using in the gasser trucks I had a 2016 with the 6L90 and my transmission temp was always around 140-165. My 2020 3500 with the 6.6 gasser has the same transmission but without a filler tube under the hood has to be filled on the bottom now another thing it’s the same transmission but this new one runs hotter like 180-195 degrees I wonder if it’s a different fluid they are using now that runs hotter.
The Sunday Drive, or anyone else reading this that may know, I’ve got a question. I’ve got an 08 Yukon Denali. It also has the 6L80E. When I’m driving I’m fine. Even beating on it and doing 130 mph (fully tuned and governor changed from 98 mph to 130) trans temps won’t get over 158 degrees. But, if I sit and idle the trans temps get over 200. Highest it got was 206 and actually caused the motor to overheat. I had the heat on. Not the ac. I was doing paperwork and smelled coolant. That’s when I noticed the trans temp and have been keeping an eye on it ever since. Driving all good. Even slow moving traffic. Stop and sit for 8-10 min and it’ll gradually climb I’d say it takes a total of 25-30 min to get into the 200’s and average fluid temps around town are about 130-140. Summer is coming and I’m super worried. I bring my dog to work with me 3-4 times a week so it’s gotta be running while I’m at job sites so she doesn’t die. Any idea a where to start?
@@TheSundaeDrive that doesn’t make sense. It didn’t do it before and it doesn’t do it from the factory…so something has to be not functioning properly.
I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 and have towed two trailers across the country, I for sure should do this. Do you have a video showing a transmission cooler upgrade?
The ONLY thing that is going to save your 6L80E transmission is to remove the factory GM TRASH torque converter and replace it with an after-market, welded together inside, billet torque converter. Otherwise.... if you don't do that... there is NOTHING on Gods green earth that is going to prevent torque converter/transmission failure. We build MORE of these units every single day, than any other transmission. I'll give you a hint.. It's not the heat that kills the GM converters.. Cut one open and you will see immediately why they fail. It's because GM set them up at the factory to fail... to generate more $$ for themselves. Every unit we rebuild, we install our own by-pass valve that we manufacture here at our shop along with a Precision BILLET torque converter. For those of you that want to do this thermostatic block mod-I sell the valve for $5.00 + shipping. You can install it in under 30 minutes. It will guarantee that ALL fluid will go out to the cooler, and then back to the transmission, with none of the hot fluid being recirculated. It will NOT stop your GM torque converter from failing though.. he gives GREAT information-SWAP OUT THE GM torque converter! Do it NOW if you have not already done it! Or if it's not too late? We have FAILED 6L80's coming in as early as 60K miles.. with many in the 80K mile range, and a lot in the 120K range.. If you wait to remove the GM converter-you may come to regret that decision. To get the thermostat OUT of the aluminum housing-come in at a 90 degree angle with SIDE CUTTERS and squeeze them such that the jaws are bitting into the nipple in the center, and then push the handles down against the thermostat body, thereby lifting the plug out of the housing. Just be sure the sharp jaws bite into the nipple on the plug, and then it will come right out. It does not hurt to use a little WD-40 to get down to the O-ring before prying it out.. But even without the WD, it will still pop right out with the side cutter sharp jaws biting the center nipple.
What year range are you talking about. My 2011 is all stock 225k miles no shifting issues.
Very good summary! I would definitely recommend changing the torque converter as well. I changed mine at 108K proactively. I plan to change it again around 200K. From your experience do you know if the 6l90 torque converter is better? That's what I replaced mine with on the 6L80
@@bendino9016 Are you sure you have the 6L80 or 6L90? It was still possible to have the 4L60E in 2011-IF you have a 4.8L engine. If you really got 225K miles-then rejoice and be happy as that seems to be a pretty rare occurrence. Not impossible, but fairly rare. Keep in mind as a shop we ONLY see the ones that fail, and most of those are coming in as early as 60K miles, with the average being between 115K-125K, and sometimes we will see them as high as 175K... But... there must be a bunch of them out there that are doing better mileage wise... but we don't see them.
What is ur information so I can buy one
Hi Go69,
?, hey I can not find any way to get a hold of you to buy the bypass valve you have for sale?,
and i am ready to install the billet converter, have you got a place for me to buy a good one?, lots of em online, but what do you reccomend?, any way to reach you?
Thanks😊
I bought this kit.
It works as advertised.
Even my local GM dealer told me to IMMEDIATELY install a cooler bypass kit so the cooler works ALL the time.
They really didn't care from whom I purchased it from.
GM knows they have this problem but no recall.
It is annoying but yup, not worth the recall for them since it will fail well outside of warranty
Recalls are almost always only to do with safety concerns causing major injuries or death.
Known issues get covered under warranty or a TSB. Nothing says after warranty they need to a recall if items are just failing.
@@TheSundaeDrive I just installed this setup exactly how the instructions say to, double checked everything but I noticed a ticking sound coming from the bottom of the truck when I turned it on. Got any ideas why that is? The truck is a 2016 Silverado with 56k miles.
@@joelmartinez9941but did it work for temperature aspect??
@@cesartorres9151 sure did
My 2014 Sierra had same issue, ran 196f everyday with a load. I ordered the kit, did the install, happy to say it has been running 150's on highway during cold weather without a load... so far a really low cost remedy using the kit. Thanks for the video.
Good to hear!
I used this kit & it dropped my trans temp from 198 to 133 best investment ever and simple to do highly recommend
Glad it helped!
Cliff-thanks for this video. I went with the Sure Cool STL010 and it works as advertised. I installed this yesterday on my 2014 Silverado LTZ. Prior to this install, my transmission routinely ran at 192 degrees on the highway; I just returned from a 50 mile round trip and it ran between 144 and 149 degrees on the interstate at 70 mph (outside temperature in the low 80’s); highest reading in stop and go traffic in the city was 158 degrees. One word of caution for those with the original bypass with the wire clips like Cliff shows in the video; pay close attention to the orientation of the clips when you remove them; they only go on one way and if you don’t get it right, the lines will blow off the bypass and you will have a mess in your driveway (learned that lesson the hard way). Other than that one issue, very easy install and I am hoping it will make my transmission last much longer.
Good tip with the clips. Definitely want to make sure they are fully seated
I have the same year at 130k miles, did you have any hard shifting or downshifting issues before the upgrade?
@@MainsOnPointMedia No shifts have always been smooth and crisp before and after this mod
@@martyketelaar5277 I have been having hard down shifts,... maybe I already have damage? I changed my transmission fluid at 100k and I didn't have any shavings though
Mine shifts hard. Always has
Glad to see a video that actually shows how wrong some of this type of work can actually go. Thanks for taking the time to put this together. No doubt you saved a lot of people a lot of $$$.
Everything doesn't always go perfect. That's for sure!
Installed this in my 2016 Silverado, it worked! But then I traded the truck in for a RAM as I waisted thousands on new valves, camshaft and radiator. Chevy lots my trust completely. But again the Superior Solution kit worked great.
That stinks. Sorry to hear that
There are easier ways to tell your friends and family you're Gay......
Dod/vvt delete to get rid of those problems, as long as your happy with your purchase that's all that really matters though.
Were you able to use the upgraded unit by GM with the existing coolant lines on your 2016?
RAM = JUNK 😂
I just installed this bypass last week. What a difference. Example: this past spring at -5c highway driving temp was +85-90c. Now at +20c highway driving temp reaches +50-55c. Awesome sure cool product
it does make a big difference for sure!
I just did the superior internals replacement. Took me about 45 minutes. Thanks for the recommendation I never owned a vehicle with a trans temperature reading before, but when I started seeing 190 on my 2014 z71 (no cargo or trailer) I was pretty sure that was ridiculously high. Found & fixed yet another GM blunder.
Glad it helped! And agreed, always something to fix or improve lol
I believe 190 is normal for these trucks esp with synthetic fluid can hold up to high temps
@@Tuesflex yep optimal operating temperature for ATF oil is between 175 and 225 so 190 is fine, whatever the issue is it's not the temp
@@ntme9WRONG. Keep running the weak OEM 6L80 / 8L80 trannie's at those ridiculously high temps and watch your torque converter IMPLODE and ruin the pump, followed by the entire transmission...fck around and find out!
@@ntme9WRONG 🥴
I have done the "pill flip" on my 2017 6L80. I'm not sure if I understood your term "bypass is always closed" correctly. My understanding is, when flipping the pill, the bypass is aways opened, allowing the transmission fluid to flow to the radiator cooler all the time, with no shut off. This will allow your transmission to run much like the older generation transmission 4L60. My truck transmission now runs much cooler (120-155 deg F) all the time, even when I go from 2000' elevation up to Mt Mitchell @ 6684'. HEAT KILLS TRANSMISSION FLUID, which in-turn, will wear out your transmission. Thanks for the video, it's very informative & I hope that I didn't post incorrect info.
What was the temp before you did the “pill flip” mod?
@@edwardvalencia291 I don't know. I did the pill flip shortly after buying my truck. With the pill flip your transmission should run pretty much as the temperature of the pre K2xx models, as they never had the temperature control valve. They all ran straight to the radiator heat exchanger. IMO, the only reason these were added was increase MPG by making an already thinner ATF thiner via higher temperature. Didn't matter if it destroyed the torque converter/transmission in the process
Thanks for the tutorial! Took me about 20 minutes since my cap came out pretty easily. Test drive for 15 minutes and the temps never went over 160.
Thank you for the shout out on our very unique Sure~Cool® systems, nice video, thank you!
Superior’s TransLab Engineered Sure~Cool® systems technology is patent and patent pending. Our Properitary designs STL009 / STL020 (ford types) and the STL010 for GM6L80/8L90/ L5P Allison uses a dynamically active Lube~Loop™ that keeps the bypass full flowing / open on startup, and still provides a safety bypass system that will Lube~Loop™ back to the parts and internals. You plug it, or Flip a pellet, what you got? A nightmare if the system ever needs to “kick the Bypass on” when needed in cold temps or any restriction to flow from the coolers and lines… our system uses the viscosity (thickness of ATF / Oil ) when extreme cold temps experienced to unseat the ball and allow bypass oil back into the transmission until flow rates stabilize and resistance to flow is overcome.
No problem! Glad you liked the video! And good tip on how the system will work in cold temps!
Have you compared the results of your product as compared to the GM replacement 8677-4933? Thanks
@@Sax6thAve123 yes the verdict, no matter what gm tries to do, the part is flawed due to the pellet design sticking, due to,
A. Heat
B. Contamination
C. External damage to lines or coolers, will still allow open bypass to use lube loop™ the circuits and allow flow thru the bypass
@@superiortransmissionpartsi5357 I just installed your kit today and rode around town this cooler evening. I was averaging 170’ish with the GM 150’ thermostat and hit 144’ this evening on my quick test with your kit. Hoping it stays this way tomorrow. Quick question: If my radiator is running 190’ from the engine heat and my tranny fluid is ‘being cooled’ by the radiator, won’t the engine heat conductively increase the tranny temp on longer runs?? Somewhat of a backwards way to look at this issue but I’m not positive that this can’t happen. Thoughts?
@@Sax6thAve123 you are correct, on vehicles with the in tank (radiator) trans cooler are actually a heat exchanger. It dissipates heat to the cooler side. OR warmth to the colder side (In colder temps) and in cold climates acts as a pre-heater to the transmission atf passing thru the heat exchanger/ in tank cooler. In hot weather the trans cooler will run about 175 or lower as the secondary air to air cooler is now cooling both, mainly the Transmission and what I call scrubbing off the the difference of temp from eng vs transmission. Also the air to air cooler needs to be 2.5 to 3 x larger in sq. Area so you have better heat dissipation thru the fins or plates of the external cooler vs. a heat exchanger via the tank.
Just a suggestion about removing the bypass since heat doesn’t help, especially since aluminum is soft. Put the whole thermal unit in the freezer for a couple of hours. When you remove it I’d use a 10mm socket with an extension place the socket over the center of the bypass
Make sure everything is flat and square on the table, give it a good solid tap with a hammer a couple of times and that should break it loose. With the good pair of needle nose pliers or lien men’s pliers that bypass should come right out w/no problems! I had a similar situation when rebuilding an old Harley engine trying to remove an old woodruff key that was fused in tight and when I tapped it a couple of times w/the hammer it popped right out!!! Better luck next time!!! Great video very helpful! I need to do the same thing on my 2009ltz Silverado. I love this stuff! TY
Appreciate that tip! and glad to hear the videos are helpful!
Or an air compressor blow off gun with the rubber tip on it and jam it in the higher port. Shop towel in your hand over the part so it doesn't shoot into low earth orbit. That's how you free a really stuck brake piston. May have to plug the lower port if the check allows reverse flow.
Also that drilling at the top of the cavity can very well tear an o ring on install and cause leaks now or later. Not internet BS, I've got 5 years of hydraulic manifold design in the books and I've seen it a lot.
Either way thanks for the video. I didn't have mine apart and wanted to see the cartridge assembly.
Omfg. I finally found a "hot to fix/avoid" page that actually gives you the answer without it being a 45 minute long clip and 30 minutes of useless drama. I will continue to like any video you post up.
Lol thanks! We try!
I just completed this upgrade using the sure cool kit. It took about an hour because mine was seized just like the video. Using a vice I kept hitting the top piston with a brass hammer and it finally broke free using vise grips to wiggle it out. Thanks for the video.
It is a pain when frozen for sure. Glad you got it tho!
@@TheSundaeDrive Do you know why GM started installing this thermostat? Could it be bypassed, and be like it's on older trucks, which does not have it?
A late entry, but maybe it will help someone glancing through that has seized internals in the housing. If you look on side of housing there is an allen screw. When removed it reveals a port where you see thermostat spring. You can use a small flat head to pry internals upward. Just keep hand over top cause internals can pop out suddenly.
Just had this done at my local transmission place. Took 30 minutes. Great service. Great Folks.
Awesome!
how much did they charge for labor
Just purchased a 2016 Sierra with 95K miles. CarFax shows transmission replacement at 93K. I ordered the Superior Solutions kit just yesterday. Hopefully this will prevent the new tranny from failing on me. This is my first GM truck and I’m loving it so far. Your channel has been very informative.
Glad to help!
Hello how did the kit work didn't make your transmission cooler
Beware of GMs trans Warranty. 6k for 1yr unlimited mile warranty. The info they don’t share is they aren’t built to last 100k miles SMH. This Mod as many others will only buy you Faith. I am a full GM guy. My best advice is overhauling. Find a race shop that is what I did. 4x4 6l80 rated for 650Whp. You wouldn’t believe gas mileage on 35s W/O tune! Ps 17 city 26mpg FW 🦍 highly recommend this mans video for My Desert Rats 🥊
Good tips thanks!
That superior solutions kit worked great for me!
Adding the Sure-Cool system is the single best thing I ever did for our 2015 Suburban! It took all of 30 minutes to install and haven't seen temps above 160, even while towing.
Should have taken me only 30 mins. It was a pain for me. Old part was fused in there bad. Took me a couple hours.
@@TheSundaeDrive Those salty winters are a beast!
I know for real.
I've got a 14 Silverado with 80k miles on it so far. No issues with the trans so far but I plan to do this once it finally stays warm in here in KY. I want to keep this truck running as long as possible haha! Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it!
My 15' yukon crapped out at 101k..... no signs just a check engine code, took to the dealer and got quoted 7k. smh.
@@ramdbzdude0_0 I'm sorry to hear that! I hope mine keeps going. So far so good.
That stinks!
@@w123luke The torque converter failed but the dealership states they can’t swap just the converter out because of metallic shavings found in the pan.
Just put it in works phenomenal thanks for the advice 156 is the highest temperature reading!
Glad it helped!
Shops don't Wana replace just the torque converter they always claim the transmission got "destroyed". I can testify to this, my 6l80 shuddered for couple thousand miles than stopped moving completely, never slipped or shifted hard, me and my brother replaced the torque converter, changed the oil and filter 2 times now it drives like a dream. The oil pan and magnet had flakes and metal dust, about a cupful.
Currently in the process of doing this upgrade. I live in rusty NH. I was able to get my old thermostat out by doing some PB blaster after I got the snap ring out. Let it sit for like 30min. Tapped the top with a hammer and punch. Then I used some map gas for about a minute. The thermostat slowly pushed itself up and shot out like two feet into the air, so be careful.
Thanks for this information. I watched this vid several times this past week in anticipation of doing this to my 2014 4WD Silverado after the upcoming easter holiday. None of the local mechanics wanted to touch it. It's a small town so there's only a few. The truck also needs the transmission fluid and filter changed. It's cold where we live and I don't drive this much - 48K miles on the truck - but the past two times I drove it to town it started to wobble for a few seconds when shifting after I hit the highway. I thought it might be tire related but after doing some research I found out it's likely the torque converter. At any rate, I had to order everything including the tranny fluid. I plan to install the kit first and then drain the pan and as much fluid as I can before I remove it and change the filter. I also ordered a replacement pan with a drain plug. I'm hoping changing the fluid and filter fixes the torque converter wobble. And I assume the bypass kit will fix the high operating temperature.
Nice video. Just did my STL010 install. The front driveshaft blocks access, so I removed the 13mm bolt first to separate the block from the case and then could flex the pipes a bit to get good access to the 10mm bolt and pull out the pipes. The old innards were not coming out of the block so as someone else said, you can use a screwdriver in the upper side hole to get the old piston moving up and out. Reinstalled, used a new gasket, no leaks. This is one of the must does for these transmissions. The other being to reprogram (e.g. hp tuners and vcm suite) to prevent torque lockup in 1 through 4 and 0 rpm slip in 5 and 6.
I have a 2017 Sierra crew cab 4x4 with about 35k miles on it. Will definitely do the update to hopefully give it a longer life. I may replace the o-rings on the lines at the same time for a safer measure. I have heard of times where reusing old o-rings may not seal correctly leading to leaking.
Thanks for the great video, I have a 2018 crew cab, bought the new GM updated bypass valve took 10 minutes to do the swap, the Canadian equivalent is part #8559533 and was $130 at the dealership took my temp from 90C to 60C
And now I’m waiting on a quote to Replace the 6L80 torque converter to a 6L90 torque converter
The updated thermal bypass Canadian version did have the 70 stamped on it
I believe it was an Earls plumbing bypass that I used with a motion raceworks trans cooler. Temps rarely crest 130 in my '15. Highly recommend, because in the end, the 1/2 mpg gain from running 190 will not be worth it when the converter grenades your tranny.
My converter just gernaded. Luckily didn’t blow my trans but definitely installing the cooler set up. My transmission runs right at 198 now
Where did you buy your parts?
Appreciate the video, my temp ran about 190-195 on regular around town and 200-210 on highway.
Install took about 10 minutes for me and temp around town about 140 in Florida weather and just traveled to Georgia and did not get Over 180 averaged 165-175..😊
Everyone should at least have the Superior Sure Cool install on their 14-15 silverado. Installed the mishimoto external transmission cooler along with the sure cool and temps never saw 180 and up ever again. Now fluctuates between 120-140 on highway and stop and go traffic, also ran both throughout negative degrees weather here in the Midwest and still holding up strong.
Definitely happy with mine. Never above 160 on mountain roads. Normally 140-150
@ 70k Miles my 14s plate popped right off with some penetrating oil and some channel locks. Probably didn't need the oil. I flipped the pill. I live in LA so the trans should always cycle IMO. HUGE THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!
"The Finest Kind"
As they say in New England States.
An Excellent Video and Description, every Option Shown, along with reading every reply
The Most Comprehensive Video
Out there today.
Thank you.....
I installed the sure cool thermal bypass valve.Works for me on my 2015 Silverado. I also installed an extra large engine oil cooler.Change your Water radiator thermostat to a 180 degree or cooler.My Truck is so cool now.
Nice! Way to go for sure
Thanks man, I believe this will really help keep the temp down on my 2014 Suburban with the 6L80E transmission. I live in the desert so heat is the enemy for a lot of things on these vehicles. The rubber tends to dry rot as well…
Just learned the hard way! 2014 Silverado failed at 120k Has a “ Certified “ now. All the upgrades and billet converter . Now waiting for that tap , tap tap!!
ive put 2 superior solutions kits on gm trucks and both solved the problem .priced fair and they pick up the phone when you have a question.
I have an LT1/6L80 out of a 2014 Silverado from TX. It's in my 37 Chev PU. Even vehicles from the south have corrosion. When I went to separate the engine from the transmission, I struggled. PB Blaster and patience finally won out, but the dowel in the engine remained in the transmission. A little more PB and time and I was able to drive it out and reinstall in the engine.
Corrosion is the worst. Had the exact same problem with my transmission
I used fencing pliers and twisted it and it came out. It gripped it really well.
I had my transmission grenade at 98k miles. Cost me about $5k and they didn’t throw the new bypass in. I’ve been changing my fluid every 30k miles since then and at 148k I’m gonna change this out. Thank you
Good idea!
If you have the older style transmission cooler lines, I believe you can swap the internals from the NEW revised housing and install them in your existing housing as well. That's a solution for those who obviously wouldn't want to replace all of their cooler lines unnecessarily.
I believe that is doable but I haven't tested it to see.
@@TheSundaeDrive Me neither - I just swapped the entire housing, as I had the newer style lines that are secured to this thermal bypass housing with a bracket and 1 bolt.
There a tsb from gm on the valve. I had the dealer do it. Went form 190 degree to 145-150. It's worth the money regardless of the route you go. I did the gm route as I have warranty left
Sounds like a good reason to go that route for sure!
First off, thanks for making and sharing this video! GM's replacement valve (86774933) had smaller ports for the hardlines than the valve on my 2020 WT, but the hardline fittings were the same style (no retaining clips). The ports for the hardlines on my valve appeared 2mm larger in diameter. You can swap the internals between GM's replacement valve and the one I had, but I ended up going the Superior internals route instead. The valve on my 6L80 was not stamped with a 70.
Also, the o-rings for the hardlines are critical since GM just retains the hardlines in with the metal bracket you mention. If you accidentally mess one up like I did, you'll leak transmission fluid like a sieve and be unable to drive the vehicle. I couldn't find the OEM part number for the o-rings so I just went with what appeared to fit (and was temperature rated), but adding teflon tape around the hardline lip (especially in the inlet port line) works well for a makeshift gasket.
Appreciate the tips! Definitely have to be careful with the rings.
I used the Super Solutions mod. Dropped my tranny temp from 194 to 135. Easy mod.
Installed my new valve a few months ago. Temps hover around 150 under normal driving. Easy swap out. No issues. Oh I forgot to mention run AMSOIL Signature too
Nice! Mine hasn't passed 136 on a couple hour drive where it it got to 198 before. I haven't towed yet with it tho
I use ams oil on all my stuff too
Great products. Amsoil is the way to go
I installed the sure cool kit last summer and was really happy with my temp. Hit wintertime (I’m in north NJ) and was seeing under 100 degrees on a 45+ min drive.. just a heads up to all of our northern friends.. the updated GM part might be the best option
Could I find the gm one on gms website or another?
The GM one is linked in the description
Good tip @bob
Hey brother. I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 LT. I bought it with 65,000 miles on it, truck came from Rochester Ny so obviously the chassis rust stuff was there and lemme tell ya if I’d watched the 25 things plus the 12 other videos I wouldn’t have bought the truck. Every car has there Achilles Heels. Now after 4 months the truck has 73k and I have absolutely zero regrets about buying my Silverado! It runs amazing, it runs hard, I don’t beat on it but my last car was A 2016 Audi S5 and I drive it just as hard. Spirited driving! Anyway i car faxed my truck and the only other owner kept up on all the services. Now finally my point! I have been worried about my transmission temp and wanted to perform the fix in the above video but I think it’s already been done. My transmission temp never ever goes over 194 degrees! Has my solenoid been messed with?
awesome! glad you are enjoying the truck! I also love mine despite some of the headaches. If it is getting up to 194 the bypass upgrade has not been done yet. It should not go above 160-170 after the upgrade
God damn it!!!!
I did this upgrade after the billet full rebuild transmission I had done well at the same time. An I’ll tell you mine also would sit around 193+ just sitting an I knew from experience that’s pretty high. Since the bypass I been sitting at 160 it’ll go up under certain conditions but goes back down . Works great
I feel your pain bro I have a 71,000 mile 2015 Chevy 1500 and my converter had split apart on me going to work and send metal shavings all threw my transmission so there a fix to this u new to upgrade the lines to a bigger diameter this problem only happens when you go full throttle
My 15 Silverado has 185000 and just put a new transmission in I’m definitely gonna do this mine temps sit about 191
Thank you for putting this out! I did this bypass on my 2014 because the temperatures were reaching 208 degrees without a load and the dealerships will tell you until they are blue in the face thats "its normal" for the transmission to be that hot. What a joke. It definitely brought my temperatures down to 125-150 degrees but I think my internals took too much damage and so now the temperatures fluctuate depending on the temperature outside. If it's cold, it runs great. If it's hot, it kinda struggles. I also installed a Mishimoto Trans-Cooler and honestly I believe that's the only thing keeping my transmission from blowing. I'm looking into upgrading all the internals including the pump and torque converter just because I get sketched out just driving it nowadays. I would love to hear options or any further advice about internals. Again thank you for your videos!
I've seen mine hit 216 when it was 80 outside
I definitely would recommend swapping the torque converter but haven't heard to much about the pump failing on its own. The pump normally fails because the torque converter shreds and clogs it
@@zachariahwoodside4048 nd i get scared mine going over 207 eventhoe its a rebuild trans butt im definitely getting that kit i live in texas houston to be exact and being on the freeway when theres traffic and constantly going and stoping bring my temp no more than 209 so i do need it
Just installed the gm bypass on a 2016 Silverado. Make sure you have both “o” rings on the trans lines when you connect it to the new bypass. If not, ATF EVERYWHERE
Lol good tip
You don’t say
What are the normal temps you’ve been seeing with the revised bypass from GM? My 2018 w 62k miles TC went out and dealership replaced TC along w valve bodies, gaskets, seals, etc through warranty. Also identified no scarring to pump. Just been paranoid about where my readings should be at. Thank you!
After this video I bought the internal replacement parts for the thermostat. 🤙🏼going to put them in today
Awesome! Hope it help!
For thirty thousand miles, I drove with the original setup. Afterwards I put the bypass on. Before that my temperatures were reaching upwards to 200. now they rarely get over 160. I dropped my fluid quite regularly and I'm going to today, but it's always pink
Glad it it's working for you!
Excellent video, thanks. My 2014 Silverado trans went out (nearly $4k), I bought it used...and had no idea trans failures were so common with GM trucks of the era...I have since bought an awesome 2016 Suburban LTZ...and will be making this change. Heat is the enemy...what were they thinking?!?!?
I used the Superior Solutions kit because my 2014 Sierra 1500 has the first design valve with the clips and I didn't want to replace the lines. Before doing the modification the trans temp ran at 190 to 195 with no load on the truck. After the modification it runs at 150 with no load and I just got back from a camping trip towing a 24' camper. Going down the road at a steady speed with the trans in manual 5 and using the tow mode the temp stayed at 170. The highest it got was 180 while going through towns in traffic. Even if you don't load the truck or tow with it, it's worth the investment. I just wish you could purchase the kit directly from Superior Solutions. I was able to find an actual transmission shop online to make my purchase because I've had bad experiences with E Bay.
Installed the global bypass in my 2015 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 definitely help out a lot stay around 155f highway on a cold day and on hot day stays around 175f
This video was great, because you explored all the options. I went with the Shift kit.
Love the honestly... thanks bud keep them videos coming!
Thanks! Will do!
Thx for video put that thermal thing in went from 194 average to 177. Dealer parts guy never heard of it I bought the parts they installed it. I’m getting to old, put front shocks in , kicked my butt(I’m 68 now)Truck has 58,000 miles also had them change trans oil. Saving up to put new torque converter. Keeping this truck till I die, they cost a fortune now, lol oh I put prolong in my engine, hopefully keep those lifters well lubed.
sounds like you are doing the right things! Definitely get a full afm delete done at some point if you want to keep it a long time.
I just did the superior solutions bypass and I guess it runs cooler. My temp still got up to 180 even after the switch. It’s between 80-90 outside but I figured it would work better.
I just did mine about an hour ago. I would see 201-210 driving out to the lake here in Arizona every time. I just made the same trip and the highest it got was 196 but I was driving really aggressively. It got back down to 180 degrees 10 minutes later so I would say the bypass is a success.
I’m so glad you have the same truck as me.. very informative videos. I appreciate the advice as well
Glad to help!
Also, after you do the bypass, I got a billet torque converter from O’Reillys’s for like a couple hundred bucks and I’ve had zero issues with my transmission sense
did u need to do any programming when changing tc?
The transmission went on my 2013 Sierra at ~184,000 miles. The trans was slipping, and then overheated within 3 miles of where I was taking it. The trans was rebuilt, the torque converter was replaced, the TOC lines were replaced, the radiator was replaced and so was the external TOC. I haven't had a transmission go in over 30 years so it was a shock when it happened. I am religious about changing trans fluid every 40,000 miles, but even that didn't help.
I deleted my thermostat when i purchased my 2014 chevy new and also my 2021 gmc. I changed the fluids every 30k miles on both. 2014 is at 210k miles and its my work truck. Still shifting strong. My 2021 gmc is at 150k and is my towing pig. Also shifting strong.
My brother rebuilds these everyother day and he recommended i do this if i want the transmission to last and they have.
100% agree. Too many never change their fluid or do it too infrequently
What’s transmission fluid do you use? I have a 2020 with the 6 speed.
Great video. FWIW, I went from the factory thermostat setup to the superior solutions kit and have mixed feelings on it. Since I live in the northeast, trans temps struggled to get to 100-110 after driving for a while on very cold days. I'm planning on keeping th is set up until next winter then will probably swap in the revised 158 degree thermostat. If you're in a continually warmer area then definitely run the superior solutions kit.
Yeah, I have similar thoughts. I'm curious to see how it does when the cold comes. In south jersey it's only really cold for about 3 months tho
Any updates on the cold region temp effects? I’m in the DC area and trying to decide between the two options as well but haven’t have the same concerns for in the colder months. 2017 z71
@@VAlien79 in DC you should be OK with the bypass, but don't take my word for it 100%. You can swap it out quick so if it runs too cold you can put the stock one back . I'm in CT and will swap in the newer 158 degree thermostat before winter to replace the bypass kit, just need to do my trans fluid and filter first. In my opinion the 158 is a great option for us who see temperatures under 50 for a good bit of the year. Like I said in my original comment, on my daily commute in the winter I hardly saw 100 degree trans temps.
So I've got a 2014 and I tow a camper and an enclosed trailer a lot during the spring and fall months, Trans Temps get up over 200, and I want to do this mod, what is the part number I need for the new housing? I'll just do a new housing with the shift technology superior solutions kit, want to.do.this asap!
I did the tap method. 1/4” ntp tap i believe? Plugged it off. Going on 2 years and my teps dont get over 168 in stop/go traffic. Average 120-145 on the highway depending on ambient temp.
@9:12 I ended up in this same spot. I ended up drilling a 27/64 hole dead center and used a 1/2 thread tap to thread the hole. My plan was to use a bolt to pull the thing out but it broke loose as I was taping the hole.
the internals of the newer thermostat will fit & Work inside the older style housing so no need to replace the cooler lines, just swap all the internals... That's how i handled this issue on my '14 Sierra almost 6 months ago & no issues, runs within a few degrees of it's 158F rating.
good tip!
I use the Sure Cool on my 2015. Seems to work fine in Michigan winters.
what do your temps get in the winter? im deciding between the bypass and the new thermostat
Literally just picked this up from the dealership 10 minutes ago
Lol good timing!
How much you get it for?
I have watch another person's video on this problem and the components from the new bypass will fit in the old bypass especially if you have the old style of line with the clips.
That is another option too (although I have not verified if that will work). If you are going that route tho I would go with the sure cool mod. It's simpler and less $$
@@TheSundaeDrive where are you located, can you do my truck 2016
Superior solution best for 6l80 I installed on my and man I can feel the difference, it rides smooth and temperature never exceed 50° c.
If the cap is seized in the valve body another possible way to free it and get it out is to stick a screwdriver in the oil cooler line hole nearest the cap and pry it up from the inside. It might require the cap to be rotated slightly which is much easier than trying to pull it out by the top 1/4 moon shaped boss!
My 2014 ltz runs at 200 all the time. Pretty ridiculous. I've even seen 205 210 with a 2000lb trailer. I've already had the transmission replaced on warranty. Definitely need this mod a nice converter. Thanks for the content.
Glad to help!
I had my 6l80 fail on me at 40,000. the torque converter locked up and I took it to a dealership nearby where it broke and They told me the transmission was fine and put a new converter in and for about 20,000 miles it ran hot and shook all the time then i put the bypass in and it helped for a while but now at 97,000 miles was having issue accelerating to get onto the highway. I changed out the filter and the pan was full of clutch material and I installed a transmission cooler and ever since doesn't get hotter than 150F or shake and is overall runs pretty smooth. also trucks a 2017 Silverado 1500 5.3 LT
I would probably swap out that tc as soon as possible if they used another stock one. Bad internals sadly.
I ha d a 2018 Chevy Silverado ,with a 6l80 trans.it can at 195to 205 degrees, in lot the superior solutions,parts and now it runs at 150 degrees, I sprayed the top of mine with on blaster e very day for a week and it came right apart no problem.30 minute job
I bought a 16 with 68,000 with transmission blue at 72k and they covered a remanufactured transmission and they replace the cooler lines and the oil cooler lines all free of charge. Toyota extended warranty on a Chevy but it worked out in my favor. I'm buying one of these immediately.. by the way, it dropped the trans pump just like described. Got up to about 200 something degrees. I put shutter in it. Clean the tube so they wouldn't try to say I did anything and took 2 months and they fixed it. I was in new equinox the whole time. It was like 7,000 but I didn't have to pay not even a deductible. So I want to make sure this transmission will last crossing fingers. I don't s*** a lifter, but maybe I'll take the money I would have spent on the transmission and delete the DOD... Or trade it for a 15 to 17 f150 with a coyote and a 6R80 for possibly 14 to 21 tundra with 5.7... But I literally owned six Chevy trucks. One SUV 1 GMC and I've had one Ford in the past. It was a '87 F-150 with a four-speed manual and a 300 Straight 6 thing was great...
I've heard the fords have problems too but different ones. No one cares about reliability anymore sadly
Makes me want to look into my 2017 gmc sierra
Worthwhile upgrade for sure
P.S. the one you drilled out, to install the dual o-ringed Sure~Cool, you would just have to clean it up the bore ledge, with some 320, Emory cloth. and GREAT CHOICE>!
Thanks!
I would still note, theirs still has a pellet the thing that sticks and was the reason for tsb 21-NA-199. After you read it you may want to watch out for new tsb's the new ones, placed on old units (doing the swap to the new "updated" block) which still has a pellet is now failing due to contamination from high mileage units and I suspect more coming. Ours can't stick. It's a long story Paul and these tsb's are out. We also had companies from China xerox a cheap copy on Amazy..so get the original.
lol 198. mine hit 219 recently, going to look in to this.
2014 Silverado 1500, with the older style unit; bought the new part (86774933) and swapped the internals. Luckily enough the older valve came apart quite easy! Took for test-drive and so far so good, thanks for the info. Also what torque setting did you use for the 13mm bolt?
Glad it helped! I just made it snug. I will try to update description with torque spec at some point if I can
What are the normal temps you’ve been seeing with the revised bypass from GM? My 2018 w 62k miles TC went out and dealership replaced TC along w valve bodies, gaskets, seals, etc through warranty. Also identified no scarring to pump. Just been paranoid about where my readings should be at. Thank you!
Hi. It’s opening at 70°c and staying in the mid 70s when I purposely really loaded the tranny. Saying that it’s been cold here and in a 1 1/2 hour journey it was sitting at 65° hope that helps.
I just Changed my transfer case, front and rear dif fluid, coolant flush and brake flush and FINALLY the STL010 Thermal Bypass mod. 221F before 145F after. DO it ASAP if you have a GM transmission
Yes!
Thanks for the update!
For sure!
I have a 2018 GMC Denali and i have the newer style and you said in the video that the Tranny lines would need to be replaced ( why ) and thank you for a great video
After thinking about what I just wrote is that you would have to change the lines on your truck so now So I misunderstood again thanks great video
@@chevytrifive1 you likely have the 8 speed transmission in a Denali.
I have the 8speed in my 17 SLT and I’m wondering what the options are for the 8speeds.
The 4L60e in my 2009 i used to own, used to get hot (hotter than I liked). On a hot day, unloaded, it could easily hit 200-220F on hot days. Even after it was rebuilt and the cooler was flushed, etc.
I got a 2018 with the 6L80e and I usually it just hovers between 150-180F regardless of weather/drive distance. Even while hauling whatever out to camp. The truck does not seem to work nearly as hard. RPMs are way down. Every down shift with the 4L60 made the rpms start screaming lol
TransGo also has a bypass, about $25. Don"t forget to lube the o rings.
I have a 2014 myself and added this to my trans about a year ago. So far, I have been really pleased and the kit by shift works great. I am going to run the trans as long as it is working good but after that I will be changing my torque converter to the 8L90 one and installing the upgrade kit made by Sonnax. That kit has very good reviews and from what I have read and also talked to others about it the claims are that it makes that trans almost bullet proof. I have replaced a lot of things on this truck but instead of replacing with oem parts I have gone with all upgrades especially on things that are known to be issues with these trucks.
I just flipped the stock one when I was servicing mine. It never gets above 150 on the highway, maybe 170-ish in traffic. Used to be mid 190's all the time.
Definitely a dumb addition from the factory. Glad it's working for you
Put some CLR on top to eat up all that rust and corrosion. Worked like a dream for me. Before I did that I wasn’t getting that clip off
My 2017 6.0 3500hd has a straight through block connector to the 6L90 trans cooler lines and so does my 2009 6.2 H2 to the 6L80. Those blocks will bolt up to any 6L80 or 90 and there is no thermostat so that problem is solved with that. Then if you program out the torque converter slip or get rid of lockup all together, the tranny will now last a long time. Upgrade the tranny coolers and take it off of the radiator heat transfer box and it will run cool! I road race my heavy truck and temps are always under 170 even when it’s 105 outside. Add as many coolers as you need to get it to the operating temp that you like.
I have a 12’ 6l80 connected to an lmg iron block (0 on the 8th digit in the vin) Are there specific differences with my year? Compared to the new body styles? (14’and up)
Use vise grips with penetrating fluid,it works to remove.Twist back and forth it comes out easy.
That's what was supposed to happen 😩 not on mine lol.
Gonna throw it out there, limited experience thus far. But it put the Shift Solutions kit in mine. It does seem to work... however my truck is a V6 WT, so it doesn't have a stand alone/auxiliary cooler. Just the coolant to oil built-in one in the rad. So my temperatures didn't drop much. However it's been 2 days and haven't towed yet. So time will tell. Thinking I'll end up adding an additional cooler kit.
I did the sure cool and a mishi moto transmission cooler keep my transmission 128 to 148 F
Mishi makes some good products.
I use mine just like the old way and run it through a cooler with a fan 100% of the time and it seams to be just fine. I have a “swap” so I haven’t paid much attention to the trans temp because it doesn’t seam to have a problem. I used the ict billet transmission cooler AN fitted adapter. No problem and I’ve dragged raced it the track a few times already… hm going to pay attention to see the temp now
Every little bit helps for sure!
Heat is the killer of TC for sure! The built in transmission coolers are a joke on these trucks. Had the torque converter shudder but not complete failure. So I did the right thing and only swapped to an aftermarket TC from Circle D. Converted my cooler lines to -6AN and added a 40k btu cooler. Fresh fluids and now my trans hardly gets over 120* even in traffic! My wife has a 2011 Suburban with the 6L80 and it has the aux external cooler, and it rarely gets over 150* in traffic and cruises around 125*. Do these mods and add a bigger aux cooler and it will save your transmission from an early death for sure.
I hope so! I'm curious tho if you have researched, what is a safe minimum temp?
@@TheSundaeDrive I haven’t looked into a minimum temp. A quick read suggests 100* above ambient is normal. I said it rarely gets over 120* meaning it hovers right at 120 in all conditions. I have a smaller cooler I could use if it is indeed too cool. Comparing to my wife’s Burb with the 5.3/6l80/4x4 with the HD cooling pkg,, the factory aux cooler is about 1/2 the size of the aux I installed on my truck. However, I am not using either of the two factory coolers in the rad on my truck. The Burb uses the rad and the aux cooler and stays roughly 80* warmer than ambient while cruising on the highway. It will creep up to 180 driving in traffic. Good point on the cool temp, I’ll look into more.
I met a ex GM mechanic, had 15 years with them, he told me that the 2018 Silveraldo and GMC Sierra has more trans and lifters issues than any other year. Very early on, 50k some less need trans work and engine repair. I own a 2014, though 14 was the worse of all. GM decided to go on the clima change crew side and hell with the customers. Sad!
You know what’s even better about a 2014 . Even though it’s a lemon model and has all the problems that plagues this body style , you’ll notice gm tsb and recalls literally avoid that year model. What a coincidence .
@@danielsmith8659 Please could you explained with more details about GM tsb and recalls on the 2014? Thanks!
@@PoisonShot20 well for example . GM put a tsb out for the new updated thermostat mentioned in this video. But if you read the TSB, 2014 is not a year model that’s mentioned to be affected . Yet I literally have the old thermostat and have already suffered from a burned up transmission at 125k. As far as recalls , there was an issue of leaking fuel pump modules. 2013 Sierra and Silverado’s , 2014 2500s only and 2015 Sierra and silverados . What a coincidence , it skipped my year. Even though every one of them from 2014 to 2017 which is the year it happened has the same part …..I have a screen shot of the TSB I would share it if it was possible . I will definitely have my ear to the forums more on my next truck. If you wait on GM and follow the manual you’ll end up with 10k in repairs in the first 5 years of ownership. They should have recalled the a/c condenser but from my understanding, if it’s not safety related they don’t have to recall it
@@danielsmith8659 Got it! Appreciated that you took your time to explained. As I mentioned, since GM was belled out by Obama, they became a government prostitute, to be right to the point.
@@PoisonShot20 yep tough times for em no doubt. But like I said . had I kept my ear to the forums I could have avoided some of these issues or at least delayed them a reasonable amount.
Just learned about this recently and want to do it on my 2014 GMC Sierra. Glad you put out this video, because now I think want to have a completely rebuilt assembly with gasket ready to swap out. Do you have the part number for the 2014 complete assembly with the clips like yours? I asked my dealer if they could do the Bulletin #21-NA-199 and besides confusing them, they said it wasn't applicable to the 2014/15 models, so they weren't sure if the P/N would fit.
So I found out you can no longer buy our style. I could not even find the part number after searching for awhile. I meant to pull the part number off of mine but forgot. If you do find the part number definitely let me know. Some people don't have issues pulling it out tho.
@@TheSundaeDrive I figured that!! Mine runs 192 most of the time. If I'm towing my tractor or excavator it will go over 200 though but usually around 198....and that's Florida heat.
Mine got to 198 and I wasnt towing and in 40 degree weather. I think it pretty much settles there no matter what.
I just did my 2014 GMC Sierra two weeks ago. Purchased the updated one from GM and didn’t realize that they changed. What actually works is swapping the guts from the new one into the old body. Worked perfect and my tranny runs way cooler now.
@@TheSundaeDrive Transmission Fluid Cooler Thermal Bypass Valve - GM (13511137)
That’s off GMs web site. It says 2015-2020 but it’s the same part.
I recently purchased a 2016 Chevy 1500 Silverado (85,000 miles) and I've been watching your video's on things that will break. I don't tow anything, drive very fast, always preform regular maintinance, mostly used just for trips to town. I take care of my trucks. After watching many of your video's, I'm afraid I made have made a mistake in buying this truck as I don't want to end up spending tons just to keep it running. How concerned should I be, considering all the things that will break, that I'm going to regret buying this truck? I realize it's all relative to how I use the truck. But I'm scared now!!
so ima do this install myself this weekend how much oil should i add back because i heard u say u would top off your fluids.
I’m pretty sure the 2015-2019 HD Chevy trucks came with the 6L90 transmission which is the same one they are currently using in the gasser trucks I had a 2016 with the 6L90 and my transmission temp was always around 140-165.
My 2020 3500 with the 6.6 gasser has the same transmission but without a filler tube under the hood has to be filled on the bottom now another thing it’s the same transmission but this new one runs hotter like 180-195 degrees I wonder if it’s a different fluid they are using now that runs hotter.
Unsure but good notes!
The Sunday Drive, or anyone else reading this that may know, I’ve got a question. I’ve got an 08 Yukon Denali. It also has the 6L80E. When I’m driving I’m fine. Even beating on it and doing 130 mph (fully tuned and governor changed from 98 mph to 130) trans temps won’t get over 158 degrees. But, if I sit and idle the trans temps get over 200. Highest it got was 206 and actually caused the motor to overheat. I had the heat on. Not the ac. I was doing paperwork and smelled coolant. That’s when I noticed the trans temp and have been keeping an eye on it ever since. Driving all good. Even slow moving traffic. Stop and sit for 8-10 min and it’ll gradually climb I’d say it takes a total of 25-30 min to get into the 200’s and average fluid temps around town are about 130-140. Summer is coming and I’m super worried. I bring my dog to work with me 3-4 times a week so it’s gotta be running while I’m at job sites so she doesn’t die. Any idea a where to start?
So you probably have a cooler up front and the moving air keeps it cool. Maybe get a bigger cooler? If you are smelling coolant tho check for leaks.
@@TheSundaeDrive that doesn’t make sense. It didn’t do it before and it doesn’t do it from the factory…so something has to be not functioning properly.
I have a 2015 Silverado 1500 and have towed two trailers across the country, I for sure should do this. Do you have a video showing a transmission cooler upgrade?
We do not, I feel like doing both is probably unnecessary with how well the sure cool kit worked on my truck. We may make a video at some point tho!
Ordering the new PPE for my 2021 SIERRA 1500 DENALI 6.2L 10L80 10 SPEED AUTOMATIC!!!