Mosquito Hotend and Voron Quickchange Toolhead assembly
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2019
- For all things Voron
vorondesign.com/
Files for the toolhead can be found here
github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
Slice engineering and the mosquito hotend
www.sliceengineering.com/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
On one of my Slice hotends, I cut a piece of 6mm brass rod and stuck it in the remaining space in the hole for the heater element. That way it couldn't slide in and out of the hole once if(when) the boron nitride paste breaks loose. So far, so good! I have a piece of 3mm rod to take up any space my new thermistor may leave. If I had some 6mm and 3mm brass tubing, I could use them to center the thermistor and heater dead center in the block; maybe later as I'd have to remove connectors from therm and heater. I could just split the tubing and slide it over the wires... That's why I love this hobby - experiments and buildings are more fun than the printing.
i love putting a bit of paste in both holes
Loving the design and ingenuity on this!
Any ETA on CAD model of 2.4?
I got the microswiss DD and the hotend for super cheap, works great but the milled alluminum sticks out like a sore thumb also makes it impossible to use any quick change methods without cutting the gantry off. Probably going to invest in new voron design. I might even use the microswiss DD for another filament.
Some nice ideas that I want to try with my mosquito on a hypercube. I am using a bondtech extruder directly - although I can appreciate avoiding the weight.
By the way have you ever had to remove the boron nitride? I haven't seen yet how to do it 😜
Where are the stls for that overhead hinged door and quick change mounting plate you show at 16:11?
Great video. Can you provide the link to the torque wrench?
Thanks
Perfect timing.
Design prototype test brought me here, just started watching the vids, I am very interested in trying out mosquitos as my hotend now needs replacing on a flsun q5, would this be compatible?
I just started watching you voron videos. I'm seriously thinking about building one of these. Can you use a mosquito magnum with this?
Yes, the V6, Mosquito, and dragon are all supported
is that 3D printer design any good for a heated enclosure, that's heated to 100ºC or 214ºF? I am worried that these belts will start stretching and losing their dimensional stability?
god I wish I had money.
Hello Nero 3d... I have a creality cr-10 smart 3d printer. I just got everything for the mosquito hot end but i cant find a print to be able to hook it up to my printer. I was curious if you had a print anywhere that would work for me to install it?
The plastic is still pretty close to the heater block. I'm guessing this wouldn't work well at the high temperatures it's rated for?
Ive printed nylons without issue with this setup
what connector kit is that id like to buy one but cant find one
I Know that you posted this four years ago, but could you please provide me the stl's for the parts? Been searching the Annex Engineering Git Hub with zero luck.
What is the connector that you attached to all the wires?
Molex Microfit3
What kind of Material you use for the printed Parts?
Abs
@@CanuckCreator thank you for your quick answer
Can one have a direct drive for filament with Mosquito hot-end?
Yes, with the new afterburner toolhead we do support direct feed and bowden setups on the current v1/v2 revisions
Are you still using this hotend? Can you give a brief review? Considering going right for the mosquito over the v6 in my large voron build. Thanks.
Yes i am, in term of print quality, its hard to say if theres any real advantage, at least on the items i print, but in terms of reliability, its been a champ, ive had zero issues with the hotend.
Voron-nitrate paste ;)
Waw
Why wouldn't you run that heater cartridge wire straight UP, instead of bending it to shit across the face of the part, and up? Makes no sense.
Silicone wire handles the bends just fine, i have over 3k hours on my machines and many other testers have high hours as well without any issues. Also, it keeps it cleaner than having multiple wires run down from the top to the toolhead, remember it can move in the whole xyz build volume....
Edit: Missread the comment. The way alot of heater wires are made. Theres a solid connector right at the beginning of the wire run near the block. Long story short some heaters cant make that tight of a bend straight up the side
@@CanuckCreator Backseat driver here :) I thought the same thing because it doesn't make sense that you have the wires parallel but not turned so the bend is up. Like anyone else would have rotated the heater cartridge so that the wires go the direction they are going to be pulled. I would have expected the wires to either go up or around the rear.
I really dont see how this is a quick change to tool head as u didnt really quickly change it its screwed in
We need strippers? That seems to be a different project from what I expected to see! 😏
PS: "…to help ensure that you have sufficient paste in both holes…" Oh come on, now this _can't_ have been by accident!
I dont like the new doors...
using glue for the thermometer and the heater is a bad idea imo. if anything goes wrong it'd be a pain to replace them.. just use a screw or something... or clamp clamp it.
its not glue, its a thermal paste that binds the heater/thermistor in place and acts as a thermal transfer agent as well.
Allows for a better designed block without having to make concessions for securing those items.
Yea totally not glue who would use glue I mean seriously that makes no sense it a thermal paste it helps with heat transfer as well as holding it in place because there no set screws like the e3dv6
@@CanuckCreator Well it's technically is glue as It's a thermal epoxy I had a heater block fail in one the wires frayed and shorted and there was absolutely no way of getting it out.
@@seanwood5443 It's not a thermal paste, it's a thermal epoxy once it cures there's no way of getting them out.
totally agree that using glue is a bad idea what if u want to replace it or it breaks ?