Great video. I'm just cleaning up my rails at the moment and have a question. With the oil as they come the carriage is very smooth, however after cleaning and packing the carriage moves OK, but you can feel a tiny bit of resistance as the balls move around (I think it occurs as each one goes through the end part into the drilled oilway). This makes them feel just a little notchy across the entire rail. Do you think that will affect print quaity? If so, is it acceptable to use a good quaity machine oil instead of the lithium grease?
No idea on whether what you are experiencing will be an issue or not. I do know that once they are installed with steppers and belts, the fine details you are feeling are probably less of a concern. I did look to see what hiwin recommends. They say to only use oil if you have a system to constantly deliver it. I think for a 3d printer you'd want to use or find something close to the hiwin g04 grease they describe here. I never found a consensus on a specific type to use otherwise. www.hiwin.com/hiwin-grease.html
I just degreased, cleaned and re-greased my linear rails. Afterwards I was worried for a moment because they did not move as freely as they did without grease. Then I watched this video and calmed down. Apparently this is normal, ooof
Hi Nero 3dp, when ordering NGM9 rails for AliExpress,CNA Mechanical, they give you two options on preload... which option should I go for? Light preload or Medium preload?
At 12 dollars per rail thats 84 bucks + shipping let's round up to an even 100. Hiwin are at least twice that so is it worth paying double? If you plan on using your printer non-stop probably otherwise cheapies are good enough. For a Switchwire which only has 4 rails I think its reasonable affordable at about 120 shipped. Those are Mgn12 mind you
@Nero 3DP when fitting the bearings over the pin and fitment is a shade too tight, would you have any concern about throwing the pin in the freezer and warming up the bearings a bit to shrink and grow them respectively?
If you do that you only have one chance to get it in position right, id recommend throwing the pin in a electric drill and hit it with some high grit sand paper, usually its only a fraction of a thou too tight
@@CanuckCreator good point, think I'll follow your advice there. Thank you for taking the time to make these guides and being so quick on following up with questions!
@@CanuckCreator Awesome, thanks for replying! just getting ready to order more extrusions and wanted to make sure I get the correct stuff. I was originally building another model and changed plans to the Voron. I already have 500mm 2020s so I'm building a 380x380x300 Voron 2.4 instead of cutting the extrusions. 👌
Mgn12 carriage is wider than 202 extrusion. Going to that woule mean the printer would not be easily enclosable and that components would sit outside the frame volume
What's a ballpark price for all of the parts on a Voron 2.1 (300mm)? I already know the labor is free and build quality will be questionable...if I do it. ;-)
I really wanted to make my hypercube evo uses mgn9h and 2020 extrusions for purely the x but it's impossible t find here :c I only found genuine hiwin ones. I really wish I had a voron but it's stupid expensive! Maybe the v1.6 will print as good?
@@chloemcholoe3280 ah yeah, that makes sense. A voron is a nice machine, but it's also a lot of overkill. I'm sure your hypercube can perform as wel as it.
Thanks for creating such a detailed series of videos going over many of the aspects of the Voron build.
Great video. I'm just cleaning up my rails at the moment and have a question. With the oil as they come the carriage is very smooth, however after cleaning and packing the carriage moves OK, but you can feel a tiny bit of resistance as the balls move around (I think it occurs as each one goes through the end part into the drilled oilway). This makes them feel just a little notchy across the entire rail. Do you think that will affect print quaity? If so, is it acceptable to use a good quaity machine oil instead of the lithium grease?
No idea on whether what you are experiencing will be an issue or not. I do know that once they are installed with steppers and belts, the fine details you are feeling are probably less of a concern.
I did look to see what hiwin recommends. They say to only use oil if you have a system to constantly deliver it. I think for a 3d printer you'd want to use or find something close to the hiwin g04 grease they describe here. I never found a consensus on a specific type to use otherwise. www.hiwin.com/hiwin-grease.html
I just degreased, cleaned and re-greased my linear rails. Afterwards I was worried for a moment because they did not move as freely as they did without grease. Then I watched this video and calmed down. Apparently this is normal, ooof
Hi Nero 3dp, when ordering NGM9 rails for AliExpress,CNA Mechanical, they give you two options on preload... which option should I go for? Light preload or Medium preload?
maybe too late, but light preload
i cant find CNA on aliexpress. only see CNC
At 12 dollars per rail thats 84 bucks + shipping let's round up to an even 100. Hiwin are at least twice that so is it worth paying double? If you plan on using your printer non-stop probably otherwise cheapies are good enough. For a Switchwire which only has 4 rails I think its reasonable affordable at about 120 shipped. Those are Mgn12 mind you
Do you have to clean the rails themselves too or just the carriages?
@Nero 3DP when fitting the bearings over the pin and fitment is a shade too tight, would you have any concern about throwing the pin in the freezer and warming up the bearings a bit to shrink and grow them respectively?
If you do that you only have one chance to get it in position right, id recommend throwing the pin in a electric drill and hit it with some high grit sand paper, usually its only a fraction of a thou too tight
@@CanuckCreator good point, think I'll follow your advice there. Thank you for taking the time to make these guides and being so quick on following up with questions!
The configuration tool shows 8 rails are needed.
*Edit*for the 2.4. does that model use 7 or 8 rails?
8 for 2.4
@@CanuckCreator Awesome, thanks for replying! just getting ready to order more extrusions and wanted to make sure I get the correct stuff. I was originally building another model and changed plans to the Voron. I already have 500mm 2020s so I'm building a 380x380x300 Voron 2.4 instead of cutting the extrusions. 👌
Thanks for your videos. CNA is offering different preload options, which one should I choose for a 350 voron 2.4?
I prefer medium
Why didn't you use MGN 12mm H rails ? , I can see a point with the x axis to save weight , but that is not true for z and y axis.
Mgn12 carriage is wider than 202 extrusion. Going to that woule mean the printer would not be easily enclosable and that components would sit outside the frame volume
@@CanuckCreator , Sorry didn't know that , So it is to do with keeping the carriage less that 20mm width.
Like
Do you have a list of recommend suppliers?
Theres an in progress mod recommended suppliers/parts list on the discord
Nero1911 thanks for the reply.
What's a ballpark price for all of the parts on a Voron 2.1 (300mm)? I already know the labor is free and build quality will be questionable...if I do it. ;-)
probably 1-1500usd
Brett James that was my calculated price for a Voron 2.2 if I went with some cheaper alternatives
I really wanted to make my hypercube evo uses mgn9h and 2020 extrusions for purely the x but it's impossible t find here :c I only found genuine hiwin ones. I really wish I had a voron but it's stupid expensive! Maybe the v1.6 will print as good?
Just go to aliexpress?
malloott doesn’t ship to my country
@@chloemcholoe3280 a country China does not want to trade with?! Where is it if I may ask?
malloott Iran ;-;
@@chloemcholoe3280 ah yeah, that makes sense. A voron is a nice machine, but it's also a lot of overkill. I'm sure your hypercube can perform as wel as it.