Ortur laser master 3, Image +Tio2 on 4 10x10cm ceramic tiles

Today I used a mix of Tio2 & water at a ratio of 2 to 3 (Tio2 - water) I was very surprised to find out that the burn was so much stronger (darker) when using water and not thinners, also under normal conditions when using thinners the Tio2 would revert back to powder after about 2hrs of being left in the open, but with the water even after 7hrs of being left in an open container, I was able to again spray another 2 tiles with what was left over ;) so an extra bonus as the water doesn't evaporate like the thinners.
Chapters.
00:00 Intro.
00:09 Spray gun and compressor used.
00:19 Setting up the image.
00:29 Air pump & Tio2.
00:41 It's Dark.
01:00 My Lightburn settings.
02:11 Clean-up time.
02:23 See the shine.
02:51 Yes water & Tio2 works.
ortur.net/
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• Laser Engraving
Ortur laser master 3 / laser master 3 LE:
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Software that I would recommend:
ImagR: www.imag-r.com/
Lightburn: lightburnsoftware.com/
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[@youmbgtube]

Nice video! I've been using TiO2 since I just could not get any paint to give me dark blacks with my LM3 10W. I tried several spray methods: spray bottles, my Fuji HVLP, HF&Paasche air guns, sponge brush, and airbrush. I attained excellent results with Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS airbrush with 0.5mm tip with 25psi and 3:1 ratio of IPA:TiO2. I use 4 coats two in each direction and since the IPA dries so quickly can apply one coat right after the other. Issue I have is I spray in my garage/shop and even with a shop made spray booth I get terrible bounce back spray. I spray the tile on a small easel and was thinking of spraying more flat next time. With TiO2 I can etch tiles at 5000/16%.
Maybe it' in another video, but, can you give more detail about your spray method? What spray gun, what needle set, how many coats, wait time between coats, etc. I tried water once but didn't like that I had to wait some time between coats.
On a side note - don't think you should be using air (or shield) etching tiles. From what I know you only use it for burning cutouts. It could produce vortex that will dirty your nozzle much quicker.

[@lightworkz3d]

Hi & Thanks, yeah Tio2 is great on tiles and I now im trying on glass, also getting great results, too . I was using Tio2 & thinners but now I'm staying with the water, with the thinners the Tio2 mix would revert back to powder form in about 1hr if left in the open air, with the water mix when left in an open jar I can still use it 3 days after being mixed ;) I have a cheap Chinese spray gun with .5 needle running at 25 psi, I spray the tile once vertical, and once horizontal, yes the drying time is about 5mins, I spray from a distance of about 3 feet away, that way I don't get any blow back and get a nice even coating on the tile, many thanks for your comment and when I get some more time I will try to make a video showing my tile preparation ;)

[@lightworkz3d]

Sorry forgot to mention about the air assist, with the 20w module the air must be on constantly no matter what you are doing, engraving or cutting otherwise it burns out the lens, I burnt 4 lens in a month before I bought the air pump, since running the pump for over 2 months I'm still using the same lens ;)

[@youmbgtube]

@@lightworkz3d Sorry to bother again but I think we are all trying to optimize this process. Your mix is a little more on the TiO2 side. When you spray your two coats when dry can you still see a sheen on the tile?
I spray from about 10" from the tile. I'm surprised you can get finish on the tile from 36".
When you say 2:3 ratio are you going by volume or weight (I use weight).
Seems we have the same laser module (Ortur LU2-10A). What speed and power do you run?

[@lightworkz3d]

Hi, hey no problem it's always nice to have a chat ;)
Ok as I'm using water as my base then I find that by using more Tio2 it works out better and dries faster, when I was using thinners, I was using 1:3 ratio, BTW I don't pay for my Tio2, so the quantity doesn't matter to me ;)
I have a plastic container that i use to measure the quantity, so by volume.
For my spraying distance I still get a heavy coating with no shine from 3 feet, I have the paint flow almost wide open ;) like I said it's just a cheap Chinese spray gun, maybe that has something to do with it.
As for module's I have three Ortur machines LM3 10w - LM3 LE 10w + 20w and an old LM2 Pro 5.5w (I still love my LM2 Pro)
I only use my LM3 LE with the LU3-20A 20w now as my LM3 10w is setup for rotary use only.
Tile with water+Tio2:
For images Speed=9000 Power=60% I have now reduced the power as it was very dark at 80%
For vector Speed=9000 Power=50% I have now reduced the power as it was very dark at 70%
I hope this has helped, many thanks for your comments, I'm always here for a chat ;)

[@primalwarbee3947]

Hi mate how do you get your Jarvis to look so good mine always looks dotty

[@lightworkz3d]

Ahhhh thanks ;) well I always like to enlarge any image I get by at least x4 using Giga AI, then in photoshop I fix any odd bits that I think may spoil the image, then I set my dpi to (254 or 282 or 318) depending on what size I'm doing, so when I import it to Lightburn it bloody massive, so then I just drag it down to the size that I need for my material, all this shit about making the image the correct size and dpi before importing to Lightburn I find is bullshit, anyway this seems to work for me ;)

[@primalwarbee3947]

@lightworkz3d thanks mate that that makes so much sense can't wait to get out and try it 👍

[@pedroreinoso2967]

excellent job, one question, was the water I used warm or normal?

[@lightworkz3d]

Hi & thanks, cold water straight from the tap ;)

[@pedroreinoso2967]

@@lightworkz3d thanks