Will an AirBrush work well for applying Titanium Dioxide?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- I purchased an airbrush in hopes that it would make applying titanium dioxide onto a tile or glass for etching, easy. I purchased a low end, self contained, airbrush for this experiment. The compressor is built in and is battery powered.
In this video, I coated a couple tiles using the airbrush. Then put them in the laser to see how well I could get an image to burn.
AirBrush link: amzn.to/46gNf9U
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Wow! What a discovery that small tool !
Thank you !
The back screw controls the amount of flow through the gun you might want to unscrew that. I watched your video a few weeks back and ended up buying the same model. It works great a little messy and the cleanup isn't fun but once you get it going and you got the right flow it's a awesome tool
Yep! I have that all set up now and it works great. :-) I recently added food color to my thin mix and that really helps see the coverage.
Didn't even know those sprayers existed. Thank for sharing, will give it a try
It was nice to find this self contained airbrush. I had assumed I was going to need to get a compressor, regulator, etc to make this work. For this task, it works well and isn't too expensive.
I'm happy to see you trying the airbrush. That's the way I do all of my tiles, now. It does take a bit to clean, so I always do four to six tiles. Make sure you get your TiO2 thoroughly mixed so you don't clog your airbrush. I've been using about a 2:1 mixture of alcohol to TiO2. 😍
It has worked well so far. Thank you for sharing your mix ratio.
pulled a mix of 3.5:1 from an engineering blog which was suggested for maximum dispersion of TiO2 in an alcohol solution, although I have seen a lot of folks have good results with many different solutions and mixtures. If you decide that airbrushing is the method you want to go for I suggest getting a dedicated compressor and either do it outside or get an airbrushing spraybooth
I have a regular paint spray gun. Put all the tiles together on a board and spray them. It should work fine. If I were doing this to sell them I would prepare a large batch and keep them on shelving ready to go.
That would be great for doing large quantities. You could have a conveyor for the tiles and the sprayer could be stationary. The one issue with TiO2 tiles is the titanium will brush off very easily. Any bump to the surface will remove the coating. As long as you can move them and store them without bumping the coating, that would rock! I did sort of thing when I was using the white paint method. I would paint 10 tiles or more at a time and just have them available for when I needed one or two or 8.
Hello, more about jet painting - always start from top to bottom, as the jet is blunted 1/3 or 1/4, then avoid blank strips or layering, distance is also important - a large distance leads to a finer layer. The idea of an airbrush is great, opens up possibilities for different coatings. Good luck.
Thank you for the tips. I have not used an airbrush before and am learning as I go. Even as a total beginner, it has worked very well. Since this video, I have thinned my mix to 3:1 and added a slight color which makes it very easy to see the coverage.
@@CNCATHome In fact, I meant not the mixing ratio but the application of each paint on a workpiece. I saw you in another clip you start from the bottom of the workpiece and apply unevenly, this affects the end result because of the different thickness of the paint. Try to make a habit of painting only from the top to the lower end of the workpiece with a 1/3 or 1/4 overlap.
@@sashgorev - Out of curiosity, is there a reason you start at the top work work your way down? I do not have much time under my belt with an air-brush. The kind of information you have provided will be very helpful. Thank you.
@@CNCATHome Yes, this way part of the jet complements the previous layer and so the painting becomes uniform everywhere, this is a tip from car painters. Good luck with the hobby.🥂
I'm using the "pour method" and am getting perfect results every time. It takes about 3 seconds per tile, with even coating and no issues. A shallow pan with a wire rack saves all of the overflow to reuse another day.
That is awesome. Do you know your mixing ratio? When I tried that method, my mix was way too thick. In my mind, pouring it on seemed like it should work or even dipping the front of the tile into the mix might work! Thank you for the information.
@@CNCATHome my mixture is WAY too thick. When it settles, I give it a *_slight_* stir until it looks like 2% milk. Then I pour. Because it's so even going on, the consistency seems to be less critical.
Hey.. just found this and you have a new sub!
I have a very similar sprayer that seems to be getting the valve clogged to the point where it won't shut off the liquid when the trigger is released.
Is the one you have having the same issue? I just got mine so I may return it if yours is not having that issue.
As for cleaning, I take it running IPA thru the gun until it runs clean is not good enough?
Thank you for subscribing! I have two of these and if the mixture is a bit too thick, it seems to easily clog the nozzle. Short bursts seems to help keep the opening clear. A thin mixture helps even more.
To clean my sprayer, I just use warm water and that has worked well. I do disassemble the brush to make sure all of the parts are clean. It takes about 5 minutes or so to get it cleaned up. It seems like a long time when I am cleaning it but it really isn't. It is worth the cleanup time to get the nice even and consistent coat of TiO2 on my tiles.
When using a dual action airbrush, it is best to push down to release the airflow, then pull back to release your solution. The amount you pull back determines the amount of solution dispensed. Then when ready to stop the flow of the solution, push forward and down. This keeps the tip cleaner and reduces clogs. You generally want a consistency of skim milk for acrylics, so I would assume it is the same here.
This is a single action airbrush. The airflow is always on and the trigger only adjusts the amount of product that comes out. A thinner mix does work better for this process. If it is too thin, you can always apply more.
@a3d277 - Thank you for this great information. My airbrush mix is around 3or 4 to 1. I still need to add in some coloring to help me see it. 🙂
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I have questions! One, many videos on this subject mention the mix ratio, but are you talking about volume or weight? Also, the TiO2 I bought doesn't mention particle size, but I'd guess it may matter? So far, I've had terrible results; my mix precipitates out faster than glitter in a snowglobe! I have the same airbrush you are using; it works great for tempera paint, but my TiO2 turns to sludge in seconds, with 91% iso alc. Do I need 99%? A drastically thinner mix? Any help anyone can offer would be appreciated; I'm just getting started in this! Thanks!
What I am currently doing that seems to work well is a 3:1 mix by volume of TiO2 and denatured alcohol. I love your analogy of the precipitation. It is fast but not so much that I can't use it. I have also added a couple drops of food coloring to help see the application on my tile. your 91% iso should be just fine. If your mix is like sludge, it needs to be much thinner. I make sure to mix my suspension right before I pipe it into my air brush bowl with a dropper. Once it is int he bowl, I put the cover on and start applying it. My first experiments with TiO2 were about a 1:1 and that was way too thick, even to brush on. I have has a few people comment that they brush on a mix with good results. They use equal amounts of water, white glue, and TiO2. I have not tried this yet. The glue will help maintain the suspension of the TiO2. It will take longer to dry and that should give it time to do more self leveling to leave an nice even coat. I am impatient and like the fast drying time of the alcohol. This does require more accuracy on my part to create an even coat of TiO2. I hope this helps. 🙂 The results I have been getting are very encouraging.
Hi from France !
What do you think about adding a food coloring (red or orange for example and not blue with your blue laser) to see better the covering on the tile ?
For the issues of density perhaps a denser liquid than DNA would help to improve the mix ...
That is a very interesting idea. That could help you easily see the coverage on the tile. I might have to give that a try! As for the suspension liquid, you want something that will clean up easily, suspend the TiO2 long enough to apply it or thin enough to spray it, and clean enough to not interfere with burning and clean up. I had a member suggest vinegar. I may give that a try.
@@CNCATHome i think if we choose the good color it can even help us to optimize the heat transfer from laser beam.
With orange for example which is complementary color of our blue laser ...
Food coloring will act more as a soluble dye than a pigment so no worries about dispersion : it will be dissolved into the DNA 👍
@@olivierw7405 - I like the orange color idea. 🙂 Good thinking.
how do you clean it up please show that :-)
Really? I would think there are a ton of videos out there about cleaning airbrushes. I take it apart, wash up the pieces with water, and put it back together once the pieces are dry. Maybe 10 minutes plus drying time. I can do a video on that I guess.
I have a feeling that it would preferable to have a colloidal suspension because of the nano metric nature of TiO2. Hence adding an adjuvant . IMHO
Having a colloidal suspension would be great if there was something that would provide that, be thin enough to brush, spray, or pour on, and evaporate completely. That would certainly help keep the TiO2 mix more consistent over time.
You melt the TiO2 with the laser …?
That seems to be the magic. It doesn't really melt, it is more of a conversion into a crystal form. I found an article that goes into a deeper explanation of what is going on: iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1361-6528/ab1964. Heating the TiO2 with the laser creates enhanced oxygen diffusion and the film becomes locally oxidized. Since oxidation is accompanied by a crystallization process, a part of the created TiO2 crystallizes and support the hydrothermal growth of rutile TiO2 nanorods.
add some color to the mix. that way you can see the amount you put on. my 2 cents. thanks
That is a great idea. Thank you for sharing. It is on my list to try. I have had other comments about that and it makes sense to me to try it. 🙂
I tried with air brush and works ok but just dont get a deep black so i tried with a poly brush and wow more black but has some streaks
it seams like the airbrush disperses the Tio2 causing a separation
so under a microscope you see load of speckles like a news paper
and yes im doing Greyscale
Oh i have found out something interesting just as I was messaging
i used a chamfered tile and at the bottom of the chamfer it came out perfectly jet black
so i measured the depth and so my laser needs to be further away for the perfect burn
I will try and report back with new height settings
I have avoided using Greyscale as it tends to be very picky. For images, I have used the Jarvis method with great results. Using that method will give you that news paper look close up as that is exactly how news papers print images. They have black ink and to make if look grey, they make small dots and lines mixed in with the white paper color to trick our eyes and it works well.
I really like that you found, quite by accident, that changing your laser position will give you that nice black crystal structure in the TiO2. :-)
I found that my laser needed to be 1.5 further away for engraving with TIO2
and also i firstly applied with a poly brush to get a smooth layer and then air brushed over the streaks
well is came out almost perfect using grey scale
I did a pirates ship and it came out like a B/W photo so smooth at a 245 DPI
very impressed
well i have found my technique that looks awesome and hope some one else tries it and gets good results
So Happy
Oh I do prefer Jarvis for doing Vectors
also to say i mixed two tea spoons of TIO2 with four water and one PVA for the air brush
And two TIO2 and two water and one PVA for the Poly brush
@@spudnickuk - That is fantastic! I am glad that you found what works well for your set up. I love that feeling when it all comes together and you know what you did and can repeat it. ;-) I just might have to give Greyscale another go to see if I can get that working. :-)
@@CNCATHome I did try grey scale at first and didn't get no joy as came out pale
Then I went to Image R website to try there software and still no joy
As new to light burn I played around with the image settings and realised it has to be dark for the burn
As for Image R website
Well It is pointless if you have Lightburn as all the adjustments can be done in it
And stored into profile's
@@CNCATHome Thought to say as I did more Greyscale etching today
and got better results.
After touching up with airbrush after applying the main first layer with poly brush to gain a smooth layer
i found i had speckles caused from the airbrush
so after using airbrush I let dry and use tissue paper to wipe down the surface to make it smoother
Not rub!
well the results are astonishing now and
getting repeated perfect results.
There is science behind it but I will not bore you lol
just think about light scattering and absorption
airbrush NEED TO LEARN
Concerning the airbrush i tried one Time and clogged the 0.3 mm nozzle in a few seconds... 😢
This is a 0.3mm nozzle too. I found that frequent starts and stops help keep it clear. I have done 4 tiles at a time this way. My next test is going to be to thin the mixture even more to see how that works.
@@CNCATHome 👍
I need to try again with a thinner mix...
Perhaps the TiO2 particules size plays a role ... I use TiO2 with particule size between 25 and 35 micrometers
@@olivierw7405 - I am sure the particle size plays a role. The TiO2 I purchased did not come with any specifications such as that so I don't know the particle size.
Also: denatured alcohol is maybe not the good véhicule : viscosity very low . Hence not “supporting “ the nanoparticules . I prefer vinegar .
That is interesting. I have not heard of or even thought about trying vinegar. There are drawback with the DNA. What makes it good also makes it bad. Its thin nature is nice for easy application, self leveling, and good for use in an airbrush. On the down side, the suspension doesn't last long and constant mixing is required. It is clean and evaporates quickly. It is also much more expensive than the TiO2. I may have to give vinegar a try. Thank you for the tip.
What would be your ratio for the Ti02 and Vinegar? I'm intrigued.
@@dickywyer293 for painting (brushes) vinegar for me. But if air brushed nano TiO2 I would also use a dispersant agent . Only trials will tell the ratio because it changes much in relation with the type/size of particles (type: spherical / angular).
But it is sprayable in an airbrush?@@ikust007
u dont have to spray it.with a foam bruss is cleaner easier and quicker!
That is fantastic. I should see how well this thinner mix works with a brush. The cleanup sure would be faster. ;-)
@@CNCATHome th-cam.com/video/rvNxZodOHZc/w-d-xo.html
@@CNCATHome th-cam.com/video/rvNxZodOHZc/w-d-xo.html no thinner.pva glue water and the dioxide.its the best amon other solutions.
@@CNCATHome1 part pva glue 1 part dioxide 3 parts water.search it on youtube.its the best method
Mate please! Sit down and learn something about spray painting and Airbrushing.
I am all for that. Do you have any tips for me? This video was my first experience with an air-brush. Even with my beginner skills, the results were promising enough to pursue this method.
@@CNCATHome Don't worry,everybody have a first time at painting,just try again with recommend technique .Wish you great results .
How hard is that one to clean? I have an older Aztec sprayer and it can be just downright horrible to try and get it cleaned out. It's neat watching you do these types of things as I can then try stuff a little differently and see how it goes as I can always come back to your video to see where the starting point was :)
Good question. It isn't very hard to clean. Part of that is the TiO2 is an easy cleanup in general. I can take the whole thing appart, clean and dry the pieces, and get it put back together in 5 to 10 minutes.