Good morning ! I tried your recommendation using Denature Ethanol 95% alcohol and mix with TiO2. It worked but I have to be very careful not to touch the tile to avoid removing the coating. I tried something interesting yesterday. Using the same process recommended I added 2 teaspoon of PVA wood glue and mix it before applying to the tiles. When dried it stayed on the tile and do not get removed easily unless I wash it. When doing engraving the end result is quite similar with using TiO2 & Ethanol. I only need one layer. My engraving end result was darker then normal even using. Speed: 2800 and Power: 40%, so have to use lesser TiO2 powder.
That is great! I will pin your suggestion for this video so people can see it. Having the TiO2 on the tile the way I showed it means you have to be very careful not to touch the TiO2 as it will come off so easily. This is a great solution to that issue. Thank you so much for sharing.
Try 1-part Tio2, 1-part Distilled water, 1-part white glue, then a good shot of food coloring so it stands out on the tile, and you can see how even your coat is. Mix it in a large mouth jar, shake it very well and apply with a wide brush. You can seal the jar and it will stay usable for a long time, and later just shake it up again and apply it to your next project. Works great and no Alcohol small.
Try 1-part Tio2, 1-part Distilled water, 1-part white glue, then a good shot of food coloring so it stands out on the tile, and you can see how even your coat is. Mix it in a large mouth jar, shake it very well and apply with a wide brush. You can seal the jar and it will stay usable for a long time, and later just shake it up again and apply it to your next project. Works great and no Alcohol small.
Thank you for the information. It sounds like this would make more of a thick paste. I assume it spreads well and self levels while it is drying. I have other viewers mention using white glue to slow the suspension from separating. I would not miss the small of the alcohol, that is for sure. ;-)
I've tried this version and my problem with it is that it leaves streaks with the foam paintbrush. It comes out nice and dark, but lots of lines through it. Any tips on how to avoid this?
That is a great idea. I have had a few people suggest that and a little while back, I did just that and it really helped see how the TiO2 was going down onto the tile. I used 2 drops of florescent purple. That ended up having a very light plumb color to it.
The airbrush did work out great once I thinned the mix a little more and added food coloring. I saw your other comment and I think this video was shot before the airbrush one.
I am glad that you were able to get something from it. I enjoy trying new things and by documenting my experience, my hope is to encourage others to try things out. Sometimes, all you need is a little encouragement or direction to go. I hope you enjoy working on your own projects as much as I do. 🙂
Great article - Thanks! I've had good success with both your TiO2 recipe and with Rust-oleum cold galvanizing compound on white ceramic tiles. Both produce a nice black surface BUT the TiO2 lasered surface has a gritty texture while the CGC surface is as smooth as the rest of the tile - much more to my liking. All of my test grid results for TiO2 show some grittiness. Is the gritty TiO2 lasered surface typical? Falcon 2 22W 2540 mm/min and 30% power.
Great observation. I have experienced the same with CGC vs TiO2. I have gotten a little smoother result applying the TiO2 with an airbrush and a light coat. It makes me wonder if the roughness is caused by the thickness of the TiO2. Since you are putting on 100% TiO2 in a layer vs who knows what percent you get with CGC of the magic compound that blackens. I have had people comment about the TiO2 coasters having a rougher surface and they like it as that keeps their drink a little better anchored on the coaster. I like both results.
Before you get a new sprayer, thin your mix to see if that helps keep things clear. I only spray 2 to 6 tiles at a time and have had good luck with my cheapo sprayers. Both have a 0.3mm nozzle. The funny thing is they are both listed as "beauty equipment. One has a single pressure and the other has two settings. I use both at their highest setting.
My problem is the danged brush marks that show up on the finished tiles. I haven't tried airbrushing it yet, but I enjoyed your video about that. Has anyone tried a paint roller to get an even coat? I'm experimenting with something to add as a thickener in hopes of making the brush marks go away and providing some adhesion to the tile before etching so a casual touch from a stray finger doesn't rub it off. More later.
Not sure about anyone trying a roller. I had someone mention they basically dipped the face of the tile into their mixture and got good results. I would think a very thin mix would self level when brushed on. I had issues with brush streaks and I didn't thin my mix very much. I was looking into how glass and tin plates were coated back in the day for photography. It seems the emulation they used was quite thin and was easy to get an even coat. From that, my takeaway was using a thinner mix. That is what I do in the airbrush and it has worked well.
@@bresnik - Experiments are never a bust if you find something out. ;-) There is a plus and minus in using DNA. Plus is that is drys very quickly. The minus is that it drys very quickly. I haven't tried just using water or a water white glue mixture to suspend my TiO2. I have had people comment on both methods. Water would evaporate much slower and would give more time for the TiO2 to distribute more evenly. The glue would help stuff stick to the tile before burning/etching and would be much slower to dry.
Thank you sir. I'll go get Denature also known as Ethanol Alcohol to try. I'll also try using water. Previously I've done mixtures using White wood glue and results vary. I'm aware that ceramic results for photos can be different even when using same application. Fortunately its a hobby for me & I don't give up easily. Thank you again for your advise.
That is something I should have talked more about in this video. It is super simple! I rinsed it off with water. How simple is that! The TiO2 just washed right off with water. Safe, simple, and easy.
Great question. I have not gotten it to work on plastics or metal. This method work great on ceramics and glass. The other materials I have tried, not so much. ;-)
The TiO2 is from Pantai Chemical and I purchased it through Amazon. It is PTR-620. It is listed as Soap making, craft, paints and pigment colorant. 16 oz - amzn.to/3STwXP7 8 oz - amzn.to/3UNwNeN 4 oz - amzn.to/3TlC7Ff
Great stuff! I have yet to try it but there's a channel "Lasers and Saws" and he shows a method that uses 3 parts water, 1 part white PVA glue (as a binder), and 1 part TO2, and adds a bit of food coloring to make it easier to see how consistent you're applying the mixture. As soon as I get some TO2 I'll try both methods. either way looks a lot simpler than using spray paint or airbrush.
You are the second person to mention white glue. I has heard about people adding food coloring to make it easier to see. I haven't done that yet but want to try as that would help greatly in seeing the coverage. Lately I have been using an airbrush with the denatured alcohol and TiO2 mix around 3:1 and it works great! Nice even coat and no streaks! Either a brush or airbrush is way better than spray paint. I have a regular viewer who is pouring their mix over the tile and getting great results. I would think a thin mix would work well that way. When I tried it, my mixture was much too thick. Have fun!!
Great question! For this process, absolutely interchangeable. It will likely change the drying time a little which isn't always a bad thing. ;-) It tends to be cheaper to use isopropyl alcohol too.
Great question. Both would likely work. I would not use Acetone as it is very aggressive at dissolving may plastics. IPA should work great. I know some people have used water. A medium that will suspend the TiO2 long enough for you to work with it and will evaporate cleanly should work. I like the DNA as it evaporates quickly and is very clean.
Thank you. I try to keep the projects at an entry level cost wise. Always good to keep on a budget. I have been able to etch directly on to stainless steel without any extra coating. It is a little tricky as too much etching warped my material! I show this in the Genmitsu's Jinsoku LC-50 Plus Review (th-cam.com/video/LpEmQhvJxgQ/w-d-xo.html) video.
That is too bad! :-( I started with a 1 to 1 mix and that was too thick so I thinned it quite a bit. Even a thick coat seemed to work just fine. It is important that the tile be very clean. I have not had that issue where the black washed off. I did have that issue when I used metal etching compound that is not rated for a diode laser. It would sometimes stick a bit but mainly wash off.
That is a good question. I put a cork backing on them and use them as coasters. I give them as customized gifts. In a group, they can be used as a hot pad. They would work great as actual tiles. Maybe a custom kitchen backsplash.
Good question. I ended up not putting more than 2 coats on. One coat was more than I needed. I do have a video where I tried to etch the 2 coat tile and it worked ok. While I was letting the other tiles dry, I started the burn process on the 1 coat tile and stopped putting more coats on while trying to put 3 coats on. I just washed the other two tiles clean and used them later.
can you use rubbing alcohol instead of denatured? and what was the best mix ratio again? i am tired of spray painting my tiles haha. Plus i want a non toxic way of doing this so i can do it inside. thanks
Absolutely. That should work just fine. I have had people tell me they use water. Some use a mix of water and white glue. Anything that will hold the TiO2 in suspension long enough for you to get it on your tile is good. As long as it will evaporate away. ;-) As for the mix, I am using a 3:1 mix and applying it with my air brush. :-)
@@CNCATHome thank you:) 8ll do 2:1 and paint it on since i do not have an airbrush. I have done many tiles with paint but have been teying to use titanium dioxide in a solution for a while
That is a good question. Yes, using a brush, some of the previous coat would get moved around or taken off. The best method with a brush is to get it done in one coat.
Acetone would likely work. I would not use it for this as it is more toxic and wouldn't a better job than anything else. And you would have to find a container that didn't dissolve from the acetone. Isopropyl alcohol should work well. I had a viewer suggest water. The nice thing about a more pure alcohol is that it evaporates quickly. It is only need to suspend the TiO2 while you apply it to the tile. Then you want it to go away and leave the TiO2 behind in a nice, even coat.
Do Brasil venho lhe parabenizar pelo excelente vídeo. Você já tentou utilizar está mesma cobertura de dióxido de titânio em cima da parte reflexiva de um espelho para gravar uma foto nele? Ou o risco de reflexão é tão grande que você nunca ousou? Você sabe se alguém já fez isto ou se faz?
Essa é uma ótima pergunta. Obrigado por perguntar. Eu não tentei tal coisa. O processo de TiO2 funciona muito bem em vidro e funcionaria bem em um espelho de vidro também. Não acho que o reflexo do espelho seria um problema, pois a energia do laser é absorvida pelo TiO2 e pouco passaria para a superfície espelhada. Essa é uma ideia interessante e eu acho que funcionaria bem. A outra opção seria queimar a parte de trás do espelho e remover o revestimento espelhado.
@@CNCATHome Entendo. muito obrigado por responder e pela atenciosa resposta, agradeço também a dica de fazer o processo do modo que você sugeriu. Um excelente final de semana para você.
you are technically glazing your tile. practically at the right concentration and laser power you can produce many different shades of color, usually with a mix of kaolin, feldspar, silica, etc. or buy a ready-mix pottery glaze
That is a great question. What I have found is less is better. The trick is to get as light or thin of a coat onto your medium as you can while maintaining full coverage. With TiO2, a thicker coat will require a little more power or longer burn time and generates a thicker and rougher end result. I have found that a wide range of feeds and speeds will work well with TiO2.
I still have the 2 coat tile and I could run a material test on it. The one coat tile did so well, I didn't see the need. I am a little curios to see how the thicker coating reacts. I just might have to do a quick short video on that. ;-)
Great video,Iam trying with titanium dioxide spray/and brush but even regrinding it still as bits in it .I will try paint method again 3/1 mix ,my mix was 10/1
@@wsparry1066 - I think I got lucky with the 2:1 mix. It was very thick and the one coat worked great and I would bet that it was a bit on the too thick side. I will thin my mix out as I go to see if that helps. I hope you are able to get your mix working. I will put a link in the description for the TiO2 I purchased.
Thank you for asking. I have two lasers I mainly use. My little one that doesn't get used quite as much is an Atomstack P7 M40. I went through Atomstack and it currently goes for $170 USD. The other laser that is what I use most of the time is a Genmistu Jinsoku LC-50 Plus. I got that through SainSmart and it currently goes for $500 USD. I like them both for different things. The Atomstack is small and portable and has a nice fine point so it acts more powerful than a 5.5 water emitter. The LC-50 is a 10 watt laser and has a much larger working area. Many nice features. I have review videos on both of these machines from when I got them.
So I have the Titanium Powder... Your using a 50/50 mix? 50% DNA / 50% TI ? I have shot glasses I want to mark, but haven't found a good reliable solution yet. Did even bother with the paint to be honest...
I started with about a 1:1 mixture and found it way too thick. I have dumped more DNA in my mix and would bet it is more like 3:1 if not a little more even. I did a photo on glass recently and it turned out great using that mixture. If you just want to etch the glass, I have had good luck using black tempera paint. The heats up and etches the glass and washes off with water. Then it is an actual etching of the glass. Using the TiO2 worked great and instead of etching the glass, it left behind black spots where I had burned the TiO2 with the laser and the rest washed off with water. Good luck with your shot glasses!
That is a good question. I don't have an exact time for this as it depends on the temperature and humidity. I go by look when I have a project I want to work on right now! As it dries, you can see a color change. Once the color has lightened across the entire surface, I call that good to burn. 🙂
@@ericornelasmath - I have added more denatured alcohol to my mix and thinning it out helped quite a bit. I would like to try an atomizer to see how well that works. I would like a method that was consistent over multiple tiles.
That is an interesting idea. I have not tested this or the white paint method on SS. I should give it a try to see what happens. Thank you for the idea. I have been doing some testing on materials with TiO2 (Titanium Dioxide) to see what works. I should add SS as well as cold rolled steel.
Note for anyone trying this: use a good respirator with a particle filter when handling the titanium dioxide powder. It is a carcinogen and you do not want to get lung cancer from breathing in the powder/fumes :)
I am working on a video talking about the safety around TiO2 and I totally agree with you that wearing good filtration is a must. It is not currently classified as a carcinogen. There is quite a bit of research on this. With the introduction of nanoparticle TiO2, there is concern about inhalation of large quantities over a period of time of TiO2 in that form. Regardless of its classification by the FDA, I agree with you that wearing filtration is a great idea. That goes with just about anything you breath in. Better safe than sorry. TiO2 has been proven safe for over 60 years even as a food additive in quantities up to 1% by weight. I noticed a few weeks ago that the toothpaste we currently have has it listed as an ingredient.
@@CNCATHome I use it with water... Tried alcohol, I live in the SW desert of the US and the alcohol evaporates way too fast. Mixed it with water and applied with an air brush. drive.google.com/file/d/1m0wrGj_z9_MlpYor1_zGNbzzLPXE_Bmr/view?usp=share_link The 6" sq porcelain tile is done with water and TiO2, both done on my fiber laser. I used LBT100 spray also, it's much more expensive, but they warn that too thick of a coat lowers the effect and the resolution. Thanks for taking the time to make a video.
Good question. In this video, I was using my Genmitsu LC-50 +. I have also done some testing with my Atomstack P7. Both worked very well with this method.
@@nopriors - Yes. Both the LC-50 Plus and the Atomstack P7 use a fixed focus, blue diode laser emitter. The LC-50 Plus is a 10watt and the P7 is a 5watt. Both have plenty of power for this type of tile etching.
I have tried this and did not have good results. I too thought it would work. On all of the metal I tried, the TiO2 did not stick. Maybe with more time working out proper power and speed settings. Something to try.
That is something built into LightBurn, the software I use to drive my laser. It is found under the menu "Laser Tools" --> Material Test. You can set several parameters about the pattern so you can get a good test around what you need.
Good morning ! Yesterday I tried mixing isopropyl alcohol with Titanium Dioxide. Percentage is 3 table spoon with double volume Isopropyl Alcohol, one layer. After drying I did engraving test with my Atomstack A10 Pro. It did engrave but is not dark like what you did. Do I need to add more T1O2 powder. Also I noticed after painting onto the ceramic tile I have to be very careful not to touch the surface or it will rub off. Is this normal. I'm from Singapore and alcohol percentage of Isopropyl is below 10%. We cannot get higher percentage. Can you recommend other type of alcohol to use please. Thank you
That is interesting information. Once the medium (in your case the isopropyl alcohol) has evaporated, all that should be left is the TiO2 and it is still just a powder and you do have to be very careful as it will wipe right off with the slightest touch. I used denatured alcohol as it is cleaner than isopropyl. I had one viewer say they used water and it worked. If you are not getting a dark result, there are a few things to try. One would be to increase the amount of TiO2 in your mix. I found that a thick layer still worked very well. Another would be to check your focus. Also check your burn parameters. I use a 0.100 mm line interval. The larger you make this, the more grey it could be. I found that over burning (slow with more power) didn't hurt the end result. Try a material test with different line intervals to see how that works out. You shouldn't need a ton of TiO2 on your tile. Just a nice thin consistent coat. I hope that helps.
Thank you sir. I'll go get Denature also known as Ethanol Alcohol to try. I'll also try using water. Previously I've done mixtures using White wood glue and results vary. I'm aware that ceramic results for photos can be different even when using same application. Fortunately its a hobby for me & I don't give up easily. Thank you again for your advise.
@@CNCATHome Thank you. I usually use Grayscale due to the picture sharpness, but it's always a challenge and can sometimes cause much more time due unsatisfactory results. Looks like I have to change to Jarvis as suggested. Thank you
@@KatoriaLuke - Wow! Grayscale is so difficult to tune in and working well. The results are nice when you get it all right. For what I have done, Jarvis has worked out very wall and with much less setup time. I hope it works well for you.
Sorry to hear that it is not working for you. I had issues when the lens on my laser had gotten dirty. Check that. If it is clean and you are having the issue, I would try more power and/or a slower speed. I am using a 10 watt laser and was able to use 4,000 mm/min! (when the lens is clean) ;-) The other thing could be too thick of a coating. It doesn't take much.
I used the same laser (Genmitsu LC-50 Plus) and 2:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol to titanium dioxide and I don't get anything like as black results as in your video. I don't think using IPA vs ethyl alcohol should not matter. It just takes longer to evaporate. I was careful to make sure that I got one good cote of the suspension. I also burned a vector image to compare it to white spray paint and it did not burn as far into the tile, and thus was paler. Any suggestions? I really like your idea, especailly when it comes to cleaning the tile.
You are totally correct about your suspension medium. That shouldn't affect the end result. It is one of many methods to coat your tile with the TiO2. I have been using a thinner mixture of denatured alcohol to TiO2 and it worked well. The end result was also thinner on the tile. Because it is a suspension, you need to make sure to stir it up so the TiO2 is all floating around in your medium. Once it has dried on the tile, just make sure you are focused and the lens is clean and you should be ready to go. Have you done a material test to see what burning parameters work best for you? I found so many setting that would work. Even over burning didn't seem to really affect it. I have a video coming out soon where I had a very thick coating on the tile and it burned just fine. It sounds like what you are doing should work great. It makes me think about the basics, focus and make sure the lens is clean.
@@CNCATHome Thanks for the prompt reply. I have the suspension in a jar with a lid which I shake vigorously before each application. I did try a material test and it came out poorly, and wasn't much help. That is why I tried an image that had worked well with paint. It is clear that it isn't burning as deeply into the tile when I compare them. I will re-focus and clean the lens and try again. I saw a video where the suspension was sprayed on. I might try that if I can't get a good result simply wiping on with a foam brush.
Re-focused, cleaned the lens and did another material test. Better but not uniform. In places it is clear that it has not burned at all or only slightly. There are places where it is fairly dark but nothing like your example. It would be easier to show a picture but don't know how to do that or know if it is even possible. My feeling is that I am not getting an even coat of TiO2 despite my best efforts.
@@user-hv9do6ll5s - I too have seen someone who used a spray bottle. I assumed it would easily clog. I do like the idea of spraying my suspension onto the tiles. I am confused as to why you are running into issues as my experiments are showing quite a bit of latitude in amount of TiO2 and power and speed settings. Maybe I just got lucky? I hope you are able to get this working well with your laser. It sounds like you are not getting consistent coverage. Once my mixture dries, it is very easy knock off the TiO2 with a simple touch or bump of a finger.
I have had other people say that. I will have to experiment with adding the glue into the mix. I have recently posted a video where I added food coloring to my 3:1 mix to use in an airbrush and that worked great. Not sure the adding glue is going to work any better or not. One way to find out! ;-)
@@vaughanza- Yes, thank you. One thing I like about using denatured alcohol is how fast is evaporates and leaves the TiO2 on the tile. I shouldn't be so impatient. ;-)
@@bresnik - That is good to know. Several people have suggested white school glue and water. I have not tried that combination yet. I wouldn't want to ruin a batch by mixing the glue and DNA. Thank you for letting me know about that.
Good morning ! I tried your recommendation using Denature Ethanol 95% alcohol and mix with TiO2. It worked but I have to be very careful not to touch the tile to avoid removing the coating. I tried something interesting yesterday. Using the same process recommended I added 2 teaspoon of PVA wood glue and mix it before applying to the tiles. When dried it stayed on the tile and do not get removed easily unless I wash it. When doing engraving the end result is quite similar with using TiO2 & Ethanol. I only need one layer. My engraving end result was darker then normal even using. Speed: 2800 and Power: 40%, so have to use lesser TiO2 powder.
That is great! I will pin your suggestion for this video so people can see it. Having the TiO2 on the tile the way I showed it means you have to be very careful not to touch the TiO2 as it will come off so easily. This is a great solution to that issue. Thank you so much for sharing.
Try 1-part Tio2, 1-part Distilled water, 1-part white glue, then a good shot of food coloring so it stands out on the tile, and you can see how even your coat is. Mix it in a large mouth jar, shake it very well and apply with a wide brush. You can seal the jar and it will stay usable for a long time, and later just shake it up again and apply it to your next project. Works great and no Alcohol small.
Try 1-part Tio2, 1-part Distilled water, 1-part white glue, then a good shot of food coloring so it stands out on the tile, and you can see how even your coat is. Mix it in a large mouth jar, shake it very well and apply with a wide brush. You can seal the jar and it will stay usable for a long time, and later just shake it up again and apply it to your next project. Works great and no Alcohol small.
Thank you for the information. It sounds like this would make more of a thick paste. I assume it spreads well and self levels while it is drying. I have other viewers mention using white glue to slow the suspension from separating. I would not miss the small of the alcohol, that is for sure. ;-)
I've tried this version and my problem with it is that it leaves streaks with the foam paintbrush. It comes out nice and dark, but lots of lines through it. Any tips on how to avoid this?
You could add a few drops of food coloring so you can see how your coat looks against the white tile.
That is a great idea. I have had a few people suggest that and a little while back, I did just that and it really helped see how the TiO2 was going down onto the tile. I used 2 drops of florescent purple. That ended up having a very light plumb color to it.
I watched a video where you used a small airbrush kit, did that not end up working out so well I bought one last week and I'm still testing it.
The airbrush did work out great once I thinned the mix a little more and added food coloring. I saw your other comment and I think this video was shot before the airbrush one.
Oh neat. Would white caned paint work to ?
that is an interesting idea. If the white paint contains Titanium Dioxide and you can get the coating on thin enough, it should work just fine.
@@CNCATHome okay Sweet ! Thanks
finally looks like a consistent results. I too never got consistent results.
I am so excited about how well this turned out. I look forward to making more coasters.
excellent. just bought a pound of TiO2 .. thanks for the tip!
Nice! Good luck using it. I hope you find it as easy and fun to work with as I have.
Same here ! :)
cool stuff brother. subbed. appreciate you taking the time to put this type of stuff all together for us noobs.
I am glad that you were able to get something from it. I enjoy trying new things and by documenting my experience, my hope is to encourage others to try things out. Sometimes, all you need is a little encouragement or direction to go. I hope you enjoy working on your own projects as much as I do. 🙂
Great article - Thanks! I've had good success with both your TiO2 recipe and with Rust-oleum cold galvanizing compound on white ceramic tiles. Both produce a nice black surface BUT the TiO2 lasered surface has a gritty texture while the CGC surface is as smooth as the rest of the tile - much more to my liking. All of my test grid results for TiO2 show some grittiness. Is the gritty TiO2 lasered surface typical? Falcon 2 22W 2540 mm/min and 30% power.
Great observation. I have experienced the same with CGC vs TiO2. I have gotten a little smoother result applying the TiO2 with an airbrush and a light coat. It makes me wonder if the roughness is caused by the thickness of the TiO2. Since you are putting on 100% TiO2 in a layer vs who knows what percent you get with CGC of the magic compound that blackens. I have had people comment about the TiO2 coasters having a rougher surface and they like it as that keeps their drink a little better anchored on the coaster. I like both results.
It clogs up my sprayer and blows chunks... recommend a sprayer?
Before you get a new sprayer, thin your mix to see if that helps keep things clear. I only spray 2 to 6 tiles at a time and have had good luck with my cheapo sprayers. Both have a 0.3mm nozzle. The funny thing is they are both listed as "beauty equipment. One has a single pressure and the other has two settings. I use both at their highest setting.
My problem is the danged brush marks that show up on the finished tiles. I haven't tried airbrushing it yet, but I enjoyed your video about that. Has anyone tried a paint roller to get an even coat? I'm experimenting with something to add as a thickener in hopes of making the brush marks go away and providing some adhesion to the tile before etching so a casual touch from a stray finger doesn't rub it off. More later.
Not sure about anyone trying a roller. I had someone mention they basically dipped the face of the tile into their mixture and got good results. I would think a very thin mix would self level when brushed on. I had issues with brush streaks and I didn't thin my mix very much. I was looking into how glass and tin plates were coated back in the day for photography. It seems the emulation they used was quite thin and was easy to get an even coat. From that, my takeaway was using a thinner mix. That is what I do in the airbrush and it has worked well.
Gonna try a thinner mix with DNA. My experiments with DNA and hand sanitizer were bust. I couldn’t get an even distribution. More later…
@@bresnik - Experiments are never a bust if you find something out. ;-) There is a plus and minus in using DNA. Plus is that is drys very quickly. The minus is that it drys very quickly. I haven't tried just using water or a water white glue mixture to suspend my TiO2. I have had people comment on both methods. Water would evaporate much slower and would give more time for the TiO2 to distribute more evenly. The glue would help stuff stick to the tile before burning/etching and would be much slower to dry.
Thank you sir. I'll go get Denature also known as Ethanol Alcohol to try. I'll also try using water. Previously I've done mixtures using White wood glue and results vary. I'm aware that ceramic results for photos can be different even when using same application. Fortunately its a hobby for me & I don't give up easily. Thank you again for your advise.
how did you clean it off afterwards ?
That is something I should have talked more about in this video. It is super simple! I rinsed it off with water. How simple is that! The TiO2 just washed right off with water. Safe, simple, and easy.
I just got some titanium-dioxide the other day but haven't tried it yet. Guess I will now. 😁 Thanks for the video!
Based on my testing and initial projects, this is a GAME CHANGER! The results are so much better than the white paint method. 🙂
Hi. I know it is very late to ask a question for a video made a year ago. Can this method work for clear soft plastic?
Great question. I have not gotten it to work on plastics or metal. This method work great on ceramics and glass. The other materials I have tried, not so much. ;-)
Can you tell me what specific brand you’re using.
The TiO2 is from Pantai Chemical and I purchased it through Amazon. It is PTR-620. It is listed as Soap making, craft, paints and pigment colorant.
16 oz - amzn.to/3STwXP7
8 oz - amzn.to/3UNwNeN
4 oz - amzn.to/3TlC7Ff
Thank you so much 😊
Great stuff! I have yet to try it but there's a channel "Lasers and Saws" and he shows a method that uses 3 parts water, 1 part white PVA glue (as a binder), and 1 part TO2, and adds a bit of food coloring to make it easier to see how consistent you're applying the mixture. As soon as I get some TO2 I'll try both methods. either way looks a lot simpler than using spray paint or airbrush.
You are the second person to mention white glue. I has heard about people adding food coloring to make it easier to see. I haven't done that yet but want to try as that would help greatly in seeing the coverage. Lately I have been using an airbrush with the denatured alcohol and TiO2 mix around 3:1 and it works great! Nice even coat and no streaks! Either a brush or airbrush is way better than spray paint. I have a regular viewer who is pouring their mix over the tile and getting great results. I would think a thin mix would work well that way. When I tried it, my mixture was much too thick. Have fun!!
Are denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol interchangeable?
Great question! For this process, absolutely interchangeable. It will likely change the drying time a little which isn't always a bad thing. ;-) It tends to be cheaper to use isopropyl alcohol too.
Hello. do you think i can use Acetone or IPA instead? :)
Great question. Both would likely work. I would not use Acetone as it is very aggressive at dissolving may plastics. IPA should work great. I know some people have used water. A medium that will suspend the TiO2 long enough for you to work with it and will evaporate cleanly should work. I like the DNA as it evaporates quickly and is very clean.
@@CNCATHome Thanks, will try to do it tomorrow when my TiO2 arrive :)
You seem very creative and budget minded. Have you found anything that etches stainless steel resiliently that doesn't cost $50++ a can?
Thank you. I try to keep the projects at an entry level cost wise. Always good to keep on a budget. I have been able to etch directly on to stainless steel without any extra coating. It is a little tricky as too much etching warped my material! I show this in the Genmitsu's Jinsoku LC-50 Plus Review (th-cam.com/video/LpEmQhvJxgQ/w-d-xo.html) video.
Im not sure I got my mix right..got incredible burn but it all washed off. I thought it was 1 titanium 2 parts rubbing alcohol?
That is too bad! :-( I started with a 1 to 1 mix and that was too thick so I thinned it quite a bit. Even a thick coat seemed to work just fine. It is important that the tile be very clean. I have not had that issue where the black washed off. I did have that issue when I used metal etching compound that is not rated for a diode laser. It would sometimes stick a bit but mainly wash off.
A great tip, thanks for sharing!
Will this work on glassware
Great question. This process will likely work on glassware. I have done this on plate glass and it worked great.
Help me understand, what are people doing with these tiles? Just randomly decorating their house with tiles?
That is a good question. I put a cork backing on them and use them as coasters. I give them as customized gifts. In a group, they can be used as a hot pad. They would work great as actual tiles. Maybe a custom kitchen backsplash.
What happened with the 3 other tiles!
Good question. I ended up not putting more than 2 coats on. One coat was more than I needed. I do have a video where I tried to etch the 2 coat tile and it worked ok. While I was letting the other tiles dry, I started the burn process on the 1 coat tile and stopped putting more coats on while trying to put 3 coats on. I just washed the other two tiles clean and used them later.
Thanks!
can you use rubbing alcohol instead of denatured? and what was the best mix ratio again? i am tired of spray painting my tiles haha. Plus i want a non toxic way of doing this so i can do it inside. thanks
Absolutely. That should work just fine. I have had people tell me they use water. Some use a mix of water and white glue. Anything that will hold the TiO2 in suspension long enough for you to get it on your tile is good. As long as it will evaporate away. ;-) As for the mix, I am using a 3:1 mix and applying it with my air brush. :-)
@@CNCATHome thank you:) 8ll do 2:1 and paint it on since i do not have an airbrush. I have done many tiles with paint but have been teying to use titanium dioxide in a solution for a while
Don't you remove some of the previous coat when applying new coat?
That is a good question. Yes, using a brush, some of the previous coat would get moved around or taken off. The best method with a brush is to get it done in one coat.
Thank you. Can I use AceTone to mix with TiO2 powder. If not what about Isopropyl Alcohol thats 10%. or 20% volume. Thank you
Acetone would likely work. I would not use it for this as it is more toxic and wouldn't a better job than anything else. And you would have to find a container that didn't dissolve from the acetone. Isopropyl alcohol should work well. I had a viewer suggest water. The nice thing about a more pure alcohol is that it evaporates quickly. It is only need to suspend the TiO2 while you apply it to the tile. Then you want it to go away and leave the TiO2 behind in a nice, even coat.
Do Brasil venho lhe parabenizar pelo excelente vídeo.
Você já tentou utilizar está mesma cobertura de dióxido de titânio em cima da parte reflexiva de um espelho para gravar uma foto nele? Ou o risco de reflexão é tão grande que você nunca ousou? Você sabe se alguém já fez isto ou se faz?
Essa é uma ótima pergunta. Obrigado por perguntar. Eu não tentei tal coisa. O processo de TiO2 funciona muito bem em vidro e funcionaria bem em um espelho de vidro também. Não acho que o reflexo do espelho seria um problema, pois a energia do laser é absorvida pelo TiO2 e pouco passaria para a superfície espelhada. Essa é uma ideia interessante e eu acho que funcionaria bem. A outra opção seria queimar a parte de trás do espelho e remover o revestimento espelhado.
@@CNCATHome Entendo. muito obrigado por responder e pela atenciosa resposta, agradeço também a dica de fazer o processo do modo que você sugeriu. Um excelente final de semana para você.
you are technically glazing your tile. practically at the right concentration and laser power you can produce many different shades of color, usually with a mix of kaolin, feldspar, silica, etc. or buy a ready-mix pottery glaze
How many passes is better tio2?
That is a great question. What I have found is less is better. The trick is to get as light or thin of a coat onto your medium as you can while maintaining full coverage. With TiO2, a thicker coat will require a little more power or longer burn time and generates a thicker and rougher end result. I have found that a wide range of feeds and speeds will work well with TiO2.
@@CNCATHome thanks
would have liked to see the other tiles
I still have the 2 coat tile and I could run a material test on it. The one coat tile did so well, I didn't see the need. I am a little curios to see how the thicker coating reacts. I just might have to do a quick short video on that. ;-)
Great video,Iam trying with titanium dioxide spray/and brush but even regrinding it still as bits in it .I will try paint method again 3/1 mix ,my mix was 10/1
@@wsparry1066 - I think I got lucky with the 2:1 mix. It was very thick and the one coat worked great and I would bet that it was a bit on the too thick side. I will thin my mix out as I go to see if that helps. I hope you are able to get your mix working. I will put a link in the description for the TiO2 I purchased.
What kind of etcher/laser do you use, cost and where to buy it?
Thank you for asking. I have two lasers I mainly use. My little one that doesn't get used quite as much is an Atomstack P7 M40. I went through Atomstack and it currently goes for $170 USD. The other laser that is what I use most of the time is a Genmistu Jinsoku LC-50 Plus. I got that through SainSmart and it currently goes for $500 USD. I like them both for different things. The Atomstack is small and portable and has a nice fine point so it acts more powerful than a 5.5 water emitter. The LC-50 is a 10 watt laser and has a much larger working area. Many nice features. I have review videos on both of these machines from when I got them.
So I have the Titanium Powder... Your using a 50/50 mix? 50% DNA / 50% TI ? I have shot glasses I want to mark, but haven't found a good reliable solution yet. Did even bother with the paint to be honest...
I started with about a 1:1 mixture and found it way too thick. I have dumped more DNA in my mix and would bet it is more like 3:1 if not a little more even. I did a photo on glass recently and it turned out great using that mixture. If you just want to etch the glass, I have had good luck using black tempera paint. The heats up and etches the glass and washes off with water. Then it is an actual etching of the glass. Using the TiO2 worked great and instead of etching the glass, it left behind black spots where I had burned the TiO2 with the laser and the rest washed off with water. Good luck with your shot glasses!
Have you tried this on stainless steel?
I don't think I have tried this on SS. I have tried it on aluminum and it did not work.
May I ask how long you let it dry before you laser it
That is a good question. I don't have an exact time for this as it depends on the temperature and humidity. I go by look when I have a project I want to work on right now! As it dries, you can see a color change. Once the color has lightened across the entire surface, I call that good to burn. 🙂
Thank you
You should try water 3/1 ratio. It takes a bit longer to dry but with an atomizer you get perfect coating in one go…and it is cheaper
Thank you for the tip. I might have to look into that method! 🙂
like a cheepo atomizer on amazon?
@@ericornelasmath - I have added more denatured alcohol to my mix and thinning it out helped quite a bit. I would like to try an atomizer to see how well that works. I would like a method that was consistent over multiple tiles.
@@ericornelasmath I use one similar to those used for pesticides. It works well
@@CNCATHome I've been using an atomizing spray bottle. Hate it. Messy as hell. I'll be trying the foam brushes.
Have you tested this on stainless steel?
That is an interesting idea. I have not tested this or the white paint method on SS. I should give it a try to see what happens. Thank you for the idea. I have been doing some testing on materials with TiO2 (Titanium Dioxide) to see what works. I should add SS as well as cold rolled steel.
I tried the titanium dioxide and it made a hell of a mess!
Note for anyone trying this: use a good respirator with a particle filter when handling the titanium dioxide powder. It is a carcinogen and you do not want to get lung cancer from breathing in the powder/fumes :)
I am working on a video talking about the safety around TiO2 and I totally agree with you that wearing good filtration is a must. It is not currently classified as a carcinogen. There is quite a bit of research on this. With the introduction of nanoparticle TiO2, there is concern about inhalation of large quantities over a period of time of TiO2 in that form. Regardless of its classification by the FDA, I agree with you that wearing filtration is a great idea. That goes with just about anything you breath in. Better safe than sorry. TiO2 has been proven safe for over 60 years even as a food additive in quantities up to 1% by weight. I noticed a few weeks ago that the toothpaste we currently have has it listed as an ingredient.
@@CNCATHome I use it with water... Tried alcohol, I live in the SW desert of the US and the alcohol evaporates way too fast. Mixed it with water and applied with an air brush. drive.google.com/file/d/1m0wrGj_z9_MlpYor1_zGNbzzLPXE_Bmr/view?usp=share_link The 6" sq porcelain tile is done with water and TiO2, both done on my fiber laser.
I used LBT100 spray also, it's much more expensive, but they warn that too thick of a coat lowers the effect and the resolution.
Thanks for taking the time to make a video.
What laser are you using? This is great. Thanks
Good question. In this video, I was using my Genmitsu LC-50 +. I have also done some testing with my Atomstack P7. Both worked very well with this method.
@@CNCATHome So is the Genmitsu LC-50 + considered a diode laser?
@@nopriors - Yes. Both the LC-50 Plus and the Atomstack P7 use a fixed focus, blue diode laser emitter. The LC-50 Plus is a 10watt and the P7 is a 5watt. Both have plenty of power for this type of tile etching.
@@CNCATHome Thank you Sir!
has anyone tried this technique on anodized aluminum? i guess it should also work.
I have tried this and did not have good results. I too thought it would work. On all of the metal I tried, the TiO2 did not stick. Maybe with more time working out proper power and speed settings. Something to try.
where do I find the test file??
That is something built into LightBurn, the software I use to drive my laser. It is found under the menu "Laser Tools" --> Material Test. You can set several parameters about the pattern so you can get a good test around what you need.
Good morning ! Yesterday I tried mixing isopropyl alcohol with Titanium Dioxide. Percentage is 3 table spoon with double volume Isopropyl Alcohol, one layer. After drying I did engraving test with my Atomstack A10 Pro. It did engrave but is not dark like what you did. Do I need to add more T1O2 powder. Also I noticed after painting onto the ceramic tile I have to be very careful not to touch the surface or it will rub off. Is this normal. I'm from Singapore and alcohol percentage of Isopropyl is below 10%. We cannot get higher percentage. Can you recommend other type of alcohol to use please. Thank you
That is interesting information. Once the medium (in your case the isopropyl alcohol) has evaporated, all that should be left is the TiO2 and it is still just a powder and you do have to be very careful as it will wipe right off with the slightest touch. I used denatured alcohol as it is cleaner than isopropyl. I had one viewer say they used water and it worked. If you are not getting a dark result, there are a few things to try. One would be to increase the amount of TiO2 in your mix. I found that a thick layer still worked very well. Another would be to check your focus. Also check your burn parameters. I use a 0.100 mm line interval. The larger you make this, the more grey it could be. I found that over burning (slow with more power) didn't hurt the end result. Try a material test with different line intervals to see how that works out. You shouldn't need a ton of TiO2 on your tile. Just a nice thin consistent coat. I hope that helps.
Thank you sir. I'll go get Denature also known as Ethanol Alcohol to try. I'll also try using water. Previously I've done mixtures using White wood glue and results vary. I'm aware that ceramic results for photos can be different even when using same application. Fortunately its a hobby for me & I don't give up easily. Thank you again for your advise.
@@KatoriaLuke - FYI, using LightBurn, I have had decent results doing photos using the Jarvis dithering setting.
@@CNCATHome Thank you. I usually use Grayscale due to the picture sharpness, but it's always a challenge and can sometimes cause much more time due unsatisfactory results. Looks like I have to change to Jarvis as suggested. Thank you
@@KatoriaLuke - Wow! Grayscale is so difficult to tune in and working well. The results are nice when you get it all right. For what I have done, Jarvis has worked out very wall and with much less setup time. I hope it works well for you.
So I have tried this and nothing happened. No etching
Sorry to hear that it is not working for you. I had issues when the lens on my laser had gotten dirty. Check that. If it is clean and you are having the issue, I would try more power and/or a slower speed. I am using a 10 watt laser and was able to use 4,000 mm/min! (when the lens is clean) ;-) The other thing could be too thick of a coating. It doesn't take much.
I used the same laser (Genmitsu LC-50 Plus) and 2:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol to titanium dioxide and I don't get anything like as black results as in your video. I don't think using IPA vs ethyl alcohol should not matter. It just takes longer to evaporate. I was careful to make sure that I got one good cote of the suspension. I also burned a vector image to compare it to white spray paint and it did not burn as far into the tile, and thus was paler. Any suggestions? I really like your idea, especailly when it comes to cleaning the tile.
You are totally correct about your suspension medium. That shouldn't affect the end result. It is one of many methods to coat your tile with the TiO2. I have been using a thinner mixture of denatured alcohol to TiO2 and it worked well. The end result was also thinner on the tile. Because it is a suspension, you need to make sure to stir it up so the TiO2 is all floating around in your medium. Once it has dried on the tile, just make sure you are focused and the lens is clean and you should be ready to go. Have you done a material test to see what burning parameters work best for you? I found so many setting that would work. Even over burning didn't seem to really affect it. I have a video coming out soon where I had a very thick coating on the tile and it burned just fine. It sounds like what you are doing should work great. It makes me think about the basics, focus and make sure the lens is clean.
@@CNCATHome Thanks for the prompt reply. I have the suspension in a jar with a lid which I shake vigorously before each application. I did try a material test and it came out poorly, and wasn't much help. That is why I tried an image that had worked well with paint. It is clear that it isn't burning as deeply into the tile when I compare them. I will re-focus and clean the lens and try again. I saw a video where the suspension was sprayed on. I might try that if I can't get a good result simply wiping on with a foam brush.
Re-focused, cleaned the lens and did another material test. Better but not uniform. In places it is clear that it has not burned at all or only slightly. There are places where it is fairly dark but nothing like your example. It would be easier to show a picture but don't know how to do that or know if it is even possible. My feeling is that I am not getting an even coat of TiO2 despite my best efforts.
Meant to add that under the microscope even the darkest squares have light spots, unlike the sample that you showed.
@@user-hv9do6ll5s - I too have seen someone who used a spray bottle. I assumed it would easily clog. I do like the idea of spraying my suspension onto the tiles. I am confused as to why you are running into issues as my experiments are showing quite a bit of latitude in amount of TiO2 and power and speed settings. Maybe I just got lucky? I hope you are able to get this working well with your laser.
It sounds like you are not getting consistent coverage. Once my mixture dries, it is very easy knock off the TiO2 with a simple touch or bump of a finger.
awesome, add some school glue
I have had other people say that. I will have to experiment with adding the glue into the mix. I have recently posted a video where I added food coloring to my 3:1 mix to use in an airbrush and that worked great. Not sure the adding glue is going to work any better or not. One way to find out! ;-)
Remember its just water and school glue @@CNCATHome
@@vaughanza- Yes, thank you. One thing I like about using denatured alcohol is how fast is evaporates and leaves the TiO2 on the tile. I shouldn't be so impatient. ;-)
@@CNCATHome Just don't put school glue in with denatured alcohol = it "coagulates" and ruins the batch. A yucky mess!
@@bresnik - That is good to know. Several people have suggested white school glue and water. I have not tried that combination yet. I wouldn't want to ruin a batch by mixing the glue and DNA. Thank you for letting me know about that.
Don't bother trying to spray. It will just clog and ruin your sprayer.
Since this video, I have switched to using an airbrush to apply a much thinner mixture (about 3:1) and have gotten great coverage. :-)