@@rustandoil Hi! How did the TRW work out for you? I've replace mine with a TRW less than 2 months ago and now the fluid is all black again and started to leak. This would be my 5 master in around 3 years. It's getting frustrating. I've tried different brands, fluid (non synthetic) and still this happens. Only thing I have not done is buy a genuine one. I'm thinking of already biting the bullet at this rate.
@@keith6360 I haven't got round to fitting mine yet.... I need alternative transport first... And that's broken at the moment... Your story doesn't inspire too much confidence though 🙁
Hi Mike. Before WD40 came onto the market, we used an oil called DUCK OIL. I was told by an Electrician that it was the same oil that was used in those M.E.M push button starters that were used in many factories. The starters were filled with oil which kept them cool and also the oil stopped the contacts from arcing and burning out, so they lasted longer. I used to sell the oil out of the Ferranti transformers for a good price, and I believe that was the similar oil to what went into those starter boxes. Great video, I hope that I don't have to do this job again, I'm getting too old for all that palaver. Stay happy, from Yorkshire Rob.
By the time the diff' arrives Paul will be terrified to leave Sherbrooke again after Mike's spent weeks telling him about everything that can go wrong with a Defender! Funny listening to this stuff about master cylinders. I used to tinker with old British cars and they often had a similar problem. A common fix was to machine a groove in the front of the piston and fit an o-ring. A lot of people mistakenly assumed it was to create a "double seal" to help prevent leaks when it was, as Mike says, simply to stop the metal piston scraping the inside of the cylinder.
I‘ve taken the Pin out and drilled it etc so that I can put a grease nipple in. So good and very easy to do actually. And when putting the pin back, use a spring locking pin (guess that’s what they are called). Makes it way easier to remove the unit if you should need to. At least on a LHD where space is very limited to turn the unit in order to free the pedal…
I did my 2011 puma master cylinder a month ago. Working around those brake pipes and pushing the coolant reservoir aside it came out quite easily. The tricky part was undoing the bottom master cylinder bolt on my own, a ratchet spanner cable tied to the pedal spring was the answer ! Also my squeaky pedal turned out to be the plastic bushes ok the pedal spring.
Also forgot to mention I put one of those LOF clutch master cylinder’s on and one of the LOF pedal springs has made a big difference to the clutch pedal.
I always used to spray white lithium grease on that pin and never had a squeek. LOF do a nice master cylinder that lowers the effort needed to press the pedal .
Other than removing the housing Any recommendations on how to seal the edges of the housing to keep water from leaking down into the foot well? Keeping the pedal dry will help keep it from squeaking.
I had to replace mine twice in the first 40,000kms……then I fitted one off a brake master for a box trailer…..and it’s still going fine 220,000kms later…… 03 td5 fender…. Maybe the trailer ones have a similar design to that trw one…..?
I'm on my 5th master cylinder in 3 years. Im getting frustrated with this. I've tried different brands of master cylinder and different fluids. But I've never seen a black TRW one. Can you point to where I can get them online? One last thing I have not tried is getting genuine LR ones though. WIll that work as well?
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks! Looks like not many carry them. I also found a Sachs brand under ZF that is also specific for LR with that part number.
well the squeaking noise is only the forecast that the pedalconstruction (one of land rover finest hour) is in trouble. will spraying help? shortly. will greasing work better? maybe for the noise definetly not stoping the grinding. is a grease nippel the holy grail? well thats the question since 1955. if the shaft hasnt have a spot that the grease actually can make its way between the shafts and to the edges or one side is blocked and the grease wont get through or it comes through but only one side or not at all .... its like always. dismantle it, make new parts in a shop with proper grease nippel and greasing lines ... land rover doesnt make only mecanics out of owners, even engineers ... maybe we better keep on spraying and pounding grease to the spots we can reach. worked for decades, at least for the noise
Just ordered a TRW master cylinder, I hope it is the latest design.... I see that as a definite improvement 👍🏻
Make sure it is the black one!
@@BritannicaRestorations Sadly can't rely on the pictures on Paddocks site.... Let's see what turns up, fingers crossed
Just to add.... TRW master showed up, it's grey but is of the latest design.... So we can't rely on colour 👍🏻
@@rustandoil Hi! How did the TRW work out for you? I've replace mine with a TRW less than 2 months ago and now the fluid is all black again and started to leak. This would be my 5 master in around 3 years. It's getting frustrating. I've tried different brands, fluid (non synthetic) and still this happens. Only thing I have not done is buy a genuine one. I'm thinking of already biting the bullet at this rate.
@@keith6360 I haven't got round to fitting mine yet.... I need alternative transport first... And that's broken at the moment... Your story doesn't inspire too much confidence though 🙁
One new clutch master cylinder sold! You’ll have that puma rebuilt before he Escapes… I mean continues on his travels😂
Paul has the makings of a competent camera operator. 👍🏻🙏🦘
Hi Mike. Before WD40 came onto the market, we used an oil called DUCK OIL. I was told by an Electrician that it was the same oil that was used in those M.E.M push button starters that were used in many factories. The starters were filled with oil which kept them cool and also the oil stopped the contacts from arcing and burning out, so they lasted longer. I used to sell the oil out of the Ferranti transformers for a good price, and I believe that was the similar oil to what went into those starter boxes. Great video, I hope that I don't have to do this job again, I'm getting too old for all that palaver. Stay happy, from Yorkshire Rob.
By the time the diff' arrives Paul will be terrified to leave Sherbrooke again after Mike's spent weeks telling him about everything that can go wrong with a Defender!
Funny listening to this stuff about master cylinders.
I used to tinker with old British cars and they often had a similar problem.
A common fix was to machine a groove in the front of the piston and fit an o-ring.
A lot of people mistakenly assumed it was to create a "double seal" to help prevent leaks when it was, as Mike says, simply to stop the metal piston scraping the inside of the cylinder.
I‘ve taken the Pin out and drilled it etc so that I can put a grease nipple in. So good and very easy to do actually. And when putting the pin back, use a spring locking pin (guess that’s what they are called). Makes it way easier to remove the unit if you should need to. At least on a LHD where space is very limited to turn the unit in order to free the pedal…
Might grab one of the TRW cylinders for my spare parts that I have been gathering from time to time.
They are a lot better!
Removing the plastic cap from the near side (UK) of the pivot reveals where a grease nipple can be screwed in.
Not seen that since the series days
I did my 2011 puma master cylinder a month ago. Working around those brake pipes and pushing the coolant reservoir aside it came out quite easily. The tricky part was undoing the bottom master cylinder bolt on my own, a ratchet spanner cable tied to the pedal spring was the answer !
Also my squeaky pedal turned out to be the plastic bushes ok the pedal spring.
Hi Mike mine was squeaking drilled the pin and put a grease nipple on it and it’s perfect now . Love the videos
Also forgot to mention I put one of those LOF clutch master cylinder’s on and one of the LOF pedal springs has made a big difference to the clutch pedal.
I always used to spray white lithium grease on that pin and never had a squeek.
LOF do a nice master cylinder that lowers the effort needed to press the pedal .
Thanks for the info
Very timely! I am struggling with my MC in my TD5, it just will not bleed. Gravity bleeding won't work, an Ezibleed was a disaster...
Here in Brazil we replace the slave cylinder with a user in the small mercedes benz truck, the clutch becomes extremely light
Other than removing the housing Any recommendations on how to seal the edges of the housing to keep water from leaking down into the foot well? Keeping the pedal dry will help keep it from squeaking.
Is there a part number for the trw master cylinder? Cheers!
STC500100
Make sure it is a TRW black one
Mike will the TRW master cylinder fit a series 3 2.25 diesel
Same
Sound. Thank you
I had to replace mine twice in the first 40,000kms……then I fitted one off a brake master for a box trailer…..and it’s still going fine 220,000kms later……
03 td5 fender….
Maybe the trailer ones have a similar design to that trw one…..?
The end credits are on the left, recent addition of 60fps, it's a new era!
Getting better!
When years pass you need lubrication. 😁
Now i know what kind of cylinder I need to buy.
Cheers Kimg Mike. 🥃
I'm on my 5th master cylinder in 3 years. Im getting frustrated with this. I've tried different brands of master cylinder and different fluids. But I've never seen a black TRW one. Can you point to where I can get them online? One last thing I have not tried is getting genuine LR ones though. WIll that work as well?
Google PND319 TRW
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks! Looks like not many carry them. I also found a Sachs brand under ZF that is also specific for LR with that part number.
www.jgs4x4.co.uk/defender-clutch-master-cylinder-trw-lucas/
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks but they no longer ship internationally
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134528670089?itmprp=cksum%3A134528670089d10cca81b9c849c3b92ba6be0b8e60ac%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABALUK373GZYwoSkhvUXwZwr2SLMQzpCH9tKsUlXR5IUOVFg6%252BDk7Rw1OZXS%252Bb4%252BWbadEfWTYgFCNE38QOPMjYSfwdW2n3QAKJVlAclT%252FkApVE7BT1Xhg2OYUBCWgg4U2qU3wiReQuwdFtp8l2tb%252BBduTz4U4inkER9FrJup5VexQtvbXrdLjSTfEgoWvXB9M5oEVHzO1o9AtqDg%252FU25JrrZet6%252Fo95feRjH8BKLkjllLIUfdZ%252FQVjAkGjJdIzmUrNxdVOW5uCZVDZCUcoRbYyOb79zP7ydIcL7YBbG6b3e7Rs6P3PJHuFKtOKWk%252F7CdST6WRfN9kugYezxD0nUgcmq1I%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=1377513819&itmmeta=01J1GS86R12QQEB0XNYMJEW2Y3
Terrible problem for owners great for sales and repairs
Great video Mike. So on Paul's car u would need to completely remove the abs system?
Not sure - need to see the workshop manual
Good Day . Been waiting too long for new a video lol 🍺 🍺🍺
More to come!
Did I understood correctly at 3:22, Paul has made TH-cam videos? If so, what's his channel name?
th-cam.com/channels/aIm_tTK_goJcDlqi7f3nHg.html
well the squeaking noise is only the forecast that the pedalconstruction (one of land rover finest hour) is in trouble.
will spraying help? shortly.
will greasing work better? maybe for the noise definetly not stoping the grinding.
is a grease nippel the holy grail? well thats the question since 1955. if the shaft hasnt have a spot that the grease actually can make its way between the shafts and to the edges or one side is blocked and the grease wont get through or it comes through but only one side or not at all ....
its like always. dismantle it, make new parts in a shop with proper grease nippel and greasing lines ... land rover doesnt make only mecanics out of owners, even engineers ...
maybe we better keep on spraying and pounding grease to the spots we can reach. worked for decades, at least for the noise
Just bought Delphi one...should posted video earlier Mike ;)
Nice!!
5 months of standing and one month of inattentive maintenance and clutch doesn't work
Oh dear!
they dont like to leave standing for a long time ...