I wouldn't fit a brand-new britpart clutch release fork without this modification as everyone I have seen has punched out or cracked,I've welded in thick dimple ground plate beforehand to stop this but it's still metal on metal wear ,whereas this plastic insert is superior,less bulky and lighter!
The last time I did a clutch on a 300 tdi I drilled a small hole in the top of the thrust bearing so I could fit 2 of the retaining staples( top and bottom) as like you say they have a tendency to drop out.
On the 300 tdi I fitted the staple with a bit of gasket sealer on the hole in the fork. Next time I just bent the staple back gently to remove the bearing leaving the staple still glued to the fork.
A job that I always find satisfying (once the engine or box is out🤣) That little bore honing tool looks very useful. May have to treat myself to one of them! Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next installment👍
I have a very similar vehicle to this one - everything is leaking. Is there any reason not to take the engine, gearbox and transfer box out all together? Apart from the weight of course. And then there's the putting back in.
Thanks for that. So I guess it's box out upwards through the floor, then engine out. Do you have a vid anywhere with tips on how to get engine and gearbox back together again? Haven't been able to find if there is. If its anything like other vehicles I've worked on it can turn into a bit of a wrestling match
11:15. Mike, does that clutch fork fit a Series.... No, better question, what cars does your clutch fork fit? I have a Series III, a 300 TDi disco ( I also have a couple of TD5 autos, and I know the answer there ) and that fork looks to be the goods.
Fits all 4 cylinder Defenders - not V8, not Series, not Td5 Sold hundreds of them I now sell the bush kit so you can fit them into your own fork/arm as it is cheaper and lighter for shipping
Is it my imagination, or do clutch release bearings get cheaper and more plasticky every year? No grease on the pilot bushing before tapping it in? I know they are oil-soaked. I lost a Ford F-150 clutch to mice nesting in the housing. It had been resting in a field for a while. Their nesting material (and possible a few mangled mousies) was spun out by the rotation and eventually clogged up the fingers so they wouldn't clamp. Weirdest mech problem I have ever had - although the clogged fuel pickup in the 110 is a close second
The red grease is specificity designed for hydraulics www.britpart.com/parts/consumables/castrol-classic-oils/da6269 Used it for years Brake fluid will dry in weeks when not contained
Hmm.... That spigot looks like it may have been spinning in the back of the crank. It's a bit hard to see. Notice the difference in the take up springs in the Valeo compared to those in the one you took out. Makes a difference in the smoothness of the take up. I'm typing this at 2:32 so I haven't seen the fingers on the pressure plate or heard the condition of the throw out bearing, but that driven plate suggests that the clutch has been 'ridden'. The condition of the various oils lend weight to that, as the car has been 'looked after'. Maybe the low power due to the injector problems would contribute. OK, I'll keep watching from here....
OK, 6:15 kinda explains that. Burnt driven plate but good pressure plate ( I believe you call it a cover ) would suggest short term abuse, rather than longer term poor skills.
@@BritannicaRestorations Can confirm this was a trait of mine in the forces until I was corrected of my error. ;) Usually it's youthful vigor and a desperate urge that raw noise of revvs etc will conquer the terrain. Not so typically.
Hi there. I jørgen from Copenhagen have a 2.25 from 1977. The intake have a sound as a dog.weber caburator from idle all the way up. Is that normal. Have the org. Oil filter.
I wouldn't fit a brand-new britpart clutch release fork without this modification as everyone I have seen has punched out or cracked,I've welded in thick dimple ground plate beforehand to stop this but it's still metal on metal wear ,whereas this plastic insert is superior,less bulky and lighter!
I pinned this comment!
Mike
@@BritannicaRestorations had any time on the vortec ?
mike is like the journeymen you learned your trade from when I was young salt of the earth.
Thank you Alistair - what a nice comment!
Mike
Mike, if you ever come back to England, can you please move in next door to me. You'd get my business every time.
Wow, I've never seem a Die-grinder before, nice bit of kit. Makes my Dremel look like a toy! That honing tool looks the business too!
On of the best bits of kit you can buy - only if you use carbide bits
@@BritannicaRestorations Expensive? Or affordable?
The Die grinder is pretty cheap - I get through a lot but they are $20 if you get them on sale The bits - best price was on amazon for a set
The last time I did a clutch on a 300 tdi I drilled a small hole in the top of the thrust bearing so I could fit 2 of the retaining staples( top and bottom) as like you say they have a tendency to drop out.
On the 300 tdi I fitted the staple with a bit of gasket sealer on the hole in the fork. Next time I just bent the staple back gently to remove the bearing leaving the staple still glued to the fork.
A job that I always find satisfying (once the engine or box is out🤣)
That little bore honing tool looks very useful. May have to treat myself to one of them!
Thanks for the video. Looking forward to the next installment👍
The honing tool is handy, but do not use it dry - WD40 is good for that use
@@BritannicaRestorations Does it shave too much off if dry?!
ruins the stones as they clog up
Think they are an oilite bush so soaking them is a good idea . Great work
Yes they are and should be soaked for 24 hours in engine oil prior to fitting - I stick about 10 in a soup tin so they are ready to got
I have a very similar vehicle to this one - everything is leaking. Is there any reason not to take the engine, gearbox and transfer box out all together? Apart from the weight of course. And then there's the putting back in.
Generally I find pulling the engine alone is the best way to do a clutch as the transmission is heavy
I should perhaps add I'm a Land Rover newbie. But I suspect I know what the answer might be....
Thanks for that. So I guess it's box out upwards through the floor, then engine out. Do you have a vid anywhere with tips on how to get engine and gearbox back together again? Haven't been able to find if there is. If its anything like other vehicles I've worked on it can turn into a bit of a wrestling match
Great vid mate
11:15. Mike, does that clutch fork fit a Series.... No, better question, what cars does your clutch fork fit? I have a Series III, a 300 TDi disco ( I also have a couple of TD5 autos, and I know the answer there ) and that fork looks to be the goods.
Fits all 4 cylinder Defenders - not V8, not Series, not Td5
Sold hundreds of them
I now sell the bush kit so you can fit them into your own fork/arm as it is cheaper and lighter for shipping
Is it my imagination, or do clutch release bearings get cheaper and more plasticky every year? No grease on the pilot bushing before tapping it in? I know they are oil-soaked.
I lost a Ford F-150 clutch to mice nesting in the housing. It had been resting in a field for a while. Their nesting material (and possible a few mangled mousies) was spun out by the rotation and eventually clogged up the fingers so they wouldn't clamp. Weirdest mech problem I have ever had - although the clogged fuel pickup in the 110 is a close second
if the bush is well soaked in oil over 24 hours it will be good for life no need for grease
Really good info, cheers 🐴🍺🥃
8:20. I always used brake fluid. I never liked introducing mineral oil into the hydraulics. Maybe I was scared of my lack of cleanliness..... lol.
The red grease is specificity designed for hydraulics
www.britpart.com/parts/consumables/castrol-classic-oils/da6269
Used it for years
Brake fluid will dry in weeks when not contained
@@BritannicaRestorations I was talking about the WD40 on the honing tool. I use the grease as well.
Hmm.... That spigot looks like it may have been spinning in the back of the crank. It's a bit hard to see. Notice the difference in the take up springs in the Valeo compared to those in the one you took out. Makes a difference in the smoothness of the take up. I'm typing this at 2:32 so I haven't seen the fingers on the pressure plate or heard the condition of the throw out bearing, but that driven plate suggests that the clutch has been 'ridden'. The condition of the various oils lend weight to that, as the car has been 'looked after'. Maybe the low power due to the injector problems would contribute.
OK, I'll keep watching from here....
OK, 6:15 kinda explains that. Burnt driven plate but good pressure plate ( I believe you call it a cover ) would suggest short term abuse, rather than longer term poor skills.
As I mentioned they have slipped the clutch instead of using gears
@@BritannicaRestorations Can confirm this was a trait of mine in the forces until I was corrected of my error. ;) Usually it's youthful vigor and a desperate urge that raw noise of revvs etc will conquer the terrain. Not so typically.
Hi there. I jørgen from Copenhagen have a 2.25 from 1977. The intake have a sound as a dog.weber caburator from idle all the way up. Is that normal. Have the org. Oil filter.
Another great video!!! Thanks Mike🤡
Thanks!
More repairs lol!!!
Send a normal mail. Hi.