How To Rebuild a Super T10 4 Speed - Part II
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2018
- Here is the complete assembly of a Super T10 4 Speed. This was installed in a 1975 Corvette during an Automatic to 4 speed conversion.
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Paul I'd like to say thank you for this video. You helped me completely rebuild my super t10. I won't be able to test it for a while, but darn near everything in it is new now, and I did everything you did, even used anaerobic gasket maker.
Just wanted to say thank you for the video and info. I successfully rebuilt my super t10 with your parts kit, book, and videos. Today was the first day i was able to take it out and put it through the paces and couldnt be happier. I've never touched a transmission before but after watching your videos taking it apart and putting it together about a dozen times and pausing it as i went i had no real problems. Really appreciate it.
Great to hear
Thanks for the great instructions. I used your technique for getting the cluster gear back into place on a T-85N-OD for a '60's Ford. Went right in!
Thanks for the parts and your book. Recieved your midplate Friday. Super T10 back the '55 and shifting great. Learned alot from your book and videos.
Hi Paul, many thanks again for your videos and your support. You helped me to solve the problem with the crack in the gearbox of my 85 Corvette with 4+3 (see comments further down).
A well-known seller in germany was not able to fix that problem and want to sell me a preplacement for over 6000 bugs. With your support we fix that crack within 10 hours of work and it solved the problem! As a thank to you, i bought your very perceptively workbench "How to rebuild manual transmissions". I am a fan of your work - keep going on. You are a gearbox-guru!! Geetings from germany.
What a really nicely done video and build. I'm in the process of rebuilding my T-10 for my 72 CJ5. It has the Advanced Adapters kit to marry to a Dana 20. I bought your book, however, the video is the icing on the cake. Thanks Again!
You are a lifesaver with all the info. I’m rebuilding my iron case super t10 and thank god you talked about the reverse idler thrust washer. The motive kit I bought has the washer with a tang in it, but my housing doesn’t have the provision. I saved me from just sending it and installing the wrong part
GREAT VIDEO! you do a great job explaining important details with out any B.S.
Paul !!!!!! excellent!! camera shots are super clear. I've been building for 20 years with your help! thanks for the info bro..
Thanks for watching.
This was a very well done video. Good job on the trans and video.
Paul you do the best rebuild videos, I really learn from you. Thanks for your time Sir.
Thank you
This video was quite helpful. I found it easier for me to pickup the reverse gear during installation of tail housing by keeping the transmission horizontal and letting it hang off the table slightly so I could mate it to the main case.
The whole package is as good as it gets, we already know the transmission is top shelf and the mods Paul does to the
shifter to make it shift as clean as possible I just don't see how it could get any better than this, It cannot.
Thanks for this video and book. I've rebuilt my 700R4 but I wouldn't tried this with out watching and reading video and book. Made it a breeze
man! you are to transmission's, like peanut butter is to jelly! about 45yrs ago my 68 firebird started shifting kinda hard(i had put a 396 in it and 456 gears so you know what the trans went thru!) so i thought i would rebuild it! i pulled the side cover off and i thought, no way, i got dizzy just looking at all them teeth going every which way! so i decided to stick to motors and rear ends! i was 16 at the time, I've been thru a lot of four speeds since then(still have four laying around for backups) but you are really good at it! you need to be teaching this in a school or a tech college some where, these vids are great, thanks for taking the time to do them, after watching your vids makes me want to pull another side cover off??, thanks a million
Pull the cover off! Don't worry I have your back.
Brother I like the way the plated bolts look and the star washers great attention to detail.
Glad you like them!
Your videos are awesome! Great work!
Its amazing how ungrateful and demanding some people are these days.You'd think they were waiting for a video they paid money for lol.......I really appreciate what you do and I know it takes a lot to put a video like this together.I just learned more in a hour than I have in a year or so of tearing down j-yard gear boxes.
Thanks for the great feedback. Much appreciated.
That was one sweet shifting transmission. Great video also....keep doing what you are doing
Thanks!
Another great job Paul !!!
I talked to you yesterday sir and I am ready to go with this type transmission for my 78 type LT Camaro. I have a thirst mostly to learn more than Muncie gearboxes. I hhave owned this car since I was 23 now I am 54. The car hasn't been on the road since 1993 :-(. Saginaw is fine but better is better :-)
Thank you so much for these videos. I can't send much to you now, but Iit saved me spending money I don't have at a transmission shop.
Thank you so much!
Great video helping me out tremendously very well explained I had to replace all gears in St10 I took you’re advice from you’re video with using sandpaper to fit my synchros to the new gears do you need to perform that to the surface where the input shaft needle bearings sit thanx Tim
Looks way more fun to drive!
My last T10 was a nodular iron case with an alloy side panel!!
A smear of silastic here the pin meets the bellhousing is a great idea as well. Nothing worse than a weep of oil from it. Seems worse on steel bellhousings as well
That Corvette removable crossmember makes the conversion going from Auto to 4-speed easier, on the factory 4-speed cars the crossmember is welded in place.
another sweet video !
Great informative and helpful video !!! Thanks !
Keep going.
Thanks!
Having used other shifters than Hurst do not even think about them, Hard changing, vague changing. Use the Hurst,,, like a knife through butter. Lovely
Paul, I enjoy the detail and professional content of each of your rebuild videos. Keep up the great work. On a side note, if you ever get a SM465 in the shop, mind making a rebuild video? I restore 73-87 fullsize chevys and these tranny’s are very common. Thanks
I am attempting to rebuild a 74 TR6 gearbox in large part to your informative videos. It's interesting how similar it is in design. Thanks for the time making these available for all to use.
Hey, if you ever need TR6 parts I have several.
Nice!! Great video as usual!!
Thanks for watching!
I love my born Warner 4 speed in my 79 Corvette just wish it had lower first gear.
Fantastic Video !
Ok look I started Drag Racing in the 70s and one of my first full time jobs was working in a local Full Service Transmission Shop. I was never a fan back then of running an Automatic so always ran 4 spds, (Muncie and Borg Warner) in the Chevy's I raced. I always ran Big Blocks and either an M22 Rock Crusher or a Borg Warner T-10....So it was only natural that as I worked at the shop to go into building Standard Transmissions...the guy who owned the place & taught me was what we called a real "Schister" (con man)...he could talk a Rattle Snake out of his skin yes he taught me the basics of how to but not the proper way how to....I did (without him getting wise fortunately) things the right way...by trail and error....most of the 4 and 5,speeds I was building were going in people Who were friends or race track competition and boy all I had to do was treat one of them like the boss wanted and my name would have been MUD....this was also the only job I was fired from in my life and fired for building things too good or doing too good,of a job....the owner never could grasp that fact and sadly it wound up costing him big time. I wish I would of had a guy like you to work for and show me the right way to do things, Who knows where I might have wound up working ? I ran all drag race prepped gears, did the face plate stuff, straight cut gears, pro shifted and so forth but with the advancements in Automatic (powerglide and turbo 400 and converter technology ) being a gear box guy got costly in a hurry. My last Gear Box Car was a Modified Production class 68 Super Sport Camaro with 427 tunnel ram 2×4 bbl engine car with a custom built 5 speed like liberty makes now.....man I miss that car.
Now days we we own 2 Nova's a 70 Super Sport with a 565 and 5 speed and a Street/Strip 72 Rally Nova with a nice 350 out of a 69 Chevelle SS and a Borg Warner T-10 I built myself with a Mr. Gasket 2nd Generation In Line Shifter.....so I can still re live the good old days...thanks again for all your videos you truly are one rare cat my friend.....If I need Parts I know where Im gonna call for sure.
Thanks Again.
I'm halfway though rebuilding my '75 T10 after watching your Super T10 videos, buying your book and your rebuild kit. The detail and narration of your rebuild videos is spot on. Can you please post the part numbers of your snap ring pliers? Thanks for your time!
Awesome, thank you! I used Wilde pliers. here is a link... amzn.to/3LiBdWn
high skill work
Thank you
oh, now you come out with this video
Better late than never!
Excellent video, thanks for the time you devote to producing them. I have a close ratio Super T10 that needs an input shaft due to some pitting (actually, quite a bit of pitting) on the pilot bushing end of the shaft. If I replace this input shaft, should I also replace the cluster gear, or if the cluster gear is in good shape reuse it? My concern is the gear whine potential of a new and old gear combination.
If the teeth on the counter shaft appear to be in good shape and are not worn on the center of the tooth profile then you can change the input shaft I do keep these input shafts in stock so please give us a call 561-743-5600. so far I have had pretty good luck with swapping gears on these Transmissions without gear noise
Hey Paul, thanks for the great videos and books. I just purchased a T10 Rebuild kit from you but I was wondering if you ever encountered a input shaft bearing that no longer stayed in the housing (i.e slides in and out without much effort, doesn't even really need a press fit)? It seemed to even allow the input shaft gear to eat away at some of the housing. I know the bearing retainer should keep the bearing in to some degree but I'm at a loss of what would cause something this severe.
Thanks again Paul!
It’s a great thing to do what you’re good at and like to do along with doing it all with a dear friend you’ve known a long time......... well done and we’ll done 👍
Thanks for that
I’ve got a 96 Silverado with a 305 & a NV 5 speed ....... still shifts good and no noise w205000 miles ...... if I ever go through it, I’ll be sure and watch more of your expertise 😉
I haven't done one in a long time
@@normsweet1710 I've done one and let me say its quite an experience lol especially the early version with 3 shift shafts. Don't care if I do another anytime soon.
We gon' rebuild!
Do you have a part number on the flat headed bolt that goes in the back of the case next to the reverse idler gear
Thank you..
At what point was the gear oil added to the trans in this video, after installed in the car? How much does it take? Thanks
Nice build Paul!!!, I think i like the Super T-10 now. HaHaHa!
I bet you know more about the T-10 than the engineers who first designed it. I had one in a 1965 Buick Skylark Gran Sport. Still remember that whine in 1st gear. Lol
Dont get confused with the original T10 generic to many makes and models. The Muncie replaced that in GM products in turn was replaced by Super T10 in about 74.
How do I get 1 for my 84 c4 corvette? Richmond 5 speed transmission
Paul, Nice build!
I have a Doug Nash 4+3 in my small block Chevy powered Austin Healey 3000. I replaced the momentary
switch in the shifter with an on-off type and an led in the dash to let me know when overdrive is selected.
The problem is during spirited driving in the twisty mountain roads in second over where I'm in that gear for a
few minutes, it will stick in second but a light bump from an open hand allows an easy shift to third. It won't
stick when running through the gears, up or down. I used AC Delco 10-4033 gear oil. Any Ideas?
The 1-2 slider digs into the hub. They were not hard enough.
Super job, Paul! Thank you, again, for providing my manual transmission fix for today. Learning from you is enjoyable.
Is the countershaft threaded on each end? or are the holes I see just center holes from machining?
Is there any need for a welch plug at the front of the countershaft or is the countershaft already a tight enough fit that no leaks should occur?
Those are centering marks. The Supercases have room for a plug. There is no room in a stock case to use one. PIn fit has to be tight to avoid leaks.
Thank you for great content. What type of grease is safe to use on this shaft seals?
I use wheel bearing grease or Driven EPG grease
Hi Paul, thanks for the great videos. My Muncie in my 1969 Z/28 falls out of 1st. Gear at first couple of blocks when taking foot off throttle, cold no load on trans. Hurst shifter feels sloppy also. Could falling out of gear be caused by sloppy out of adjustment shifter or is it internal? Thank you.
Try removing the stops of you have any. These transmissions rarely fall out of first
Another excellent video again from you Paul. A little unrelated question have you always done transmission work since leaving school, or done anything else. Mechanical engineering, Bus driver, Brick layer, etc...
Good question. Most people have been asking me. Going to do an about video soon. I always worked with cars but did engineering work for a contract company that did medical, aerospace and military.
Hey man i am an old novice my question is i pulled the flat case off of a muncie 4 speed tranny and went back to work in alaska when i got back i could not remember how the forks come out. High side up and in or visa versa
Muncie forks have no direction
Does anyone know what 5 speed out of a 1984 z-28, had a main case tilted to the left, was a mechanical clutch release, and a "top loader" the case ears looked like a conventional 4 speed except the lower right ear was longer than the rest?
It's a standard clocked GM bolt pattern. Same as a Muncie. It was clocked for ground clearance
Notice how good Paul set up that shifter ? I'd love to own that car.
Really a smooth ride.
I had to drop the cluster to remove the main shaft on the 3.42 first gear T-10 which meant rotating the mid plate to remove and re install the cluster shaft. Is that the way it has to be?
Yes, if you look at part one, the 3.42 has to assembled like that in reverse
Does the trans have to come out of the car to replace the side cover gasket and shifter seals if they are leaking?
No, but it's really hard to do it in the car.
Is it possible to remove the tail housing and replace the mid plate gasket without taking the entire S T10 out? 1974 Firebird, '70 Pontiac 400, 1975 BW S-T10. Have a leak. Not too bad, but want to make it right. Thank you for your videos. Watched them many times.
No it is not
great videos thanks , do you have a shop in s fla, my brother in west palm has a 1974 sd455 with a borg warner super t-10 4 speed, he got this car from our father , some how dads mechanic made an error and third gear is 4th and obviously when you pull into 4th its third gear, car is not driven much so brother never got fixed ,car has 39,000 orig miles and last florida auto tag was in 1992. thanks for your time
The 3-4 linkage arm is upside down. Flip it so it is pointing up look at my shifter adjustment video and look at the placement of the arms
thanks for reply , i didnt think trans was taken apart , i was hoping it was linkage
Great video! What does a Hurst shifter provide over the stock shifter? I'm getting my ST10 rebuilt now and I'm wondering what all I need for short, crisp shifts. Thanks!!
If the stock shifter is NOT a Hurst shifter then you have no center bias as well as a hurst shifter is designed to ease into 3rd from 2nd
@@GearBoxVideo Do Hurst shifter sit higher up than stock shifters? Do the shift rods clear the floor? Thanks!
No they don't. Since you can bolt on a variety of different handles you can customize the feel
@@GearBoxVideo thanks!
Have you ever rebuilt a jeep CJ2A T90 transmission and a T18 transfer case ? Are you still in Florida ?
Yes. I don't recall anything being called a T18 transfer case but I've done many T90 and T18 builds. New video is coming on a T86 build
Ok sir, I need your help! Bang for the buck, I need a trans that will hold up to 600hp, 500lb/ft in my 85 mustang, set up more for autocross and roadcoarse. I love the idea of a six speed (I love me some high speed straights) but require reliability with hard driving.(gforce t5? Custom t56?) I may be able to get a t5 complete for cheap, but not sure if it's a world class or not yet. Please help, love your channel, maybe you have or know of a video to direct me to already? Thanks
You may want to contact Liberty's Gears and have them build you a face plated TKO. See libertysgears.com
So random question seeing u know t5’s real good how many hp and torque can a stock t5 handle out of a 1990 Firebird? Thanks Hoping it can handle around 300 hp and torque.
Transmissions that are installed in factory applications are designed for their intended use and nothing more. That is my general rule. A car manufacturer isn't going to pay for a transmission that for example may handle double the load capacity. You also have to keep in mind that these transmissions are old and it's hard to determine what life they may have left in them.
which one is stronger the super ti0 ot the super m23 muncie or a 18 spline hemi 4 speed
If they were ALL NEW, the Hemi box. It's hard to compare used transmissions. New, the order would be, Hemi, Muncie, and ST10. The new Muncie are subjective because different people build them with different components. Example we build them with Nodukar Iron mid sections and steel billet front retainers compared to others using cast aluminum components.
Should you grease all seals on any manual transmission, I'm building a sm465.
Yes grease all seals so they do not burn up on the initial fire up
Hi - I just watched the "rebuild Super T10" video. I found your TH-cam channel when looking for best info on transmission. It looked like you used Driven GO 80w90 oil. My use for my ST-10 is short road races (vintage racing). Is this the best oil for thatpurpose?
The Royal Purple Max Gear lube has been a favorite as well
I have a 1978 super t10. When I slide the yoke in and out of the tail housing air comes out of the case vent. Is that normal?
Yes
Great video, Paul! Are there face-plated gear sets available for the T-10?
You can get face plated gear sets from Roltek
@@GearBoxVideo Thank you. Keep the good stuff coming, it's very much appreciated.
Hey, Paul great job on the super T10.. how much is the super T10 rebuild kit
See my shopping cart www.5speeds.com/cart for kit prices
paul do they make gears for the super t10 that are stronger than the original gears
Depends on the application. Stronger what what specific kind of use?
I am disassembling a T10 transmission, following your instructions on your video. I dropped the counter shaft to the bottom on the case to remove the input shaft intact with bearing. It seems that it is not dropping down low enough to the bottom of the case. The outer race of the bearing is hitting the counter shaft gear by maybe an eight of an inch. What am I doing wrong?
Some ratios that happens. So using the case to support the input with the outer snap ring on the bearing press the input shaft thru
@@GearBoxVideo thanks i thought i was loosing my brain
I had a S-10 Blazer with a 4 speed it was 4 X 4 indeed it was a 4 speed and not the 5 spd. that came in newer models the shifter was on the top.
Great videos! Quick question, have you ever rebuilt a ST10 that has been run without oil? Me and my dad have been building his car over the last few years and long story short we forgot to add oil to our freshly rebuilt ST10. It started to whine pretty bad after the 3rd test drive. Just wondering if you think it would be worth tearing apart to rebuild or it there is too much damage done at this point. Thanks again!
Well when they whine the gears get cupped from lack of lube
@@GearBoxVideo thanks for the response, I guess we'll just have to pull the cover off and take a peek!
Absolutely a beautiful build Paul. Which one is better? Muncie or T-10? I like how you cover every possible area so no leaks can occur. Call me a gear head but I find this entertaining.
Thank you. None is better than the other. Just depends on the application
Is a 81 Super T10 capable of handling 475hp, 505 lb/ft? Had trouble shifting j to gear under load. No grinding, just hard to push the shifter into gear. Sending out for a rebuild but wondering if it’s even worth it.
They were designed for the factory horsepower and torque ratings the team in those cars for that year and very little more
How do you turn the gears into place to get ready to replace linkage...
Spin the input shaft by hand. Or if in the car , have the rear wheels off the ground and turn the driveshaft by hand
The welch plug that caps the hole in which the reverse idler shaft alignment pin is missing on my ST-10. Any pointers on where I can find a suitably sized replacement? I don't see the welch plug in kits.
It is a 1/4 plug available from Dorman
@@GearBoxVideo and quick question. My original BW ST-10 needs to be resealed. Its leaking right from the area where those two bottom bolts are as described in your video. Where the midplate mates to the extension housing. If I also wanted to replace the gasket between the other side of the midplate and the main case, is there a way I can remove the midplate with the bearing intact without having to extract the entire main shaft gear train? Looks to me like i can just remove the reverse gear, reverse idler gear, and counter retention bolt, and it should be able to lift straight up and off the length of the main shaft.
Thanks again, amazing video!
That would be hard to do.
Paul, cause of a little crack in the adapter plate in a 1985 c4 (man trans with overdrive) i have to change the housing between super T10 and overdrive (where the rear bearing is in).
Any chance to change that housing without dissasemble the hole gear? Or should i do it like you do in the video?
Many thanks for that ingenious video.
Common issue. The crack happens at the lower adapter bolt to the transmission. Pull the OD off the 4 speed, clean the gasket surface and remove the lower 12 point bolt. Apply sealant to the bolt thread, install and fill bolt hole with sealant. Reinstall OD with new gasket. Problem is where the housing cracks, oil leaks around the gasket. Filling the hole blocks that leak. As a rule the hole is filled on every build I do cause eventually it cracks from flex. I stock the gasket, and OD filter kits
Okay, thanks a lot!!
So that means, that filling the hole stops the oil flowing into the adapter? Do i have to reinstall the bolt after filling the hole?
Which sealant do you recommend? Can´t find the gasket in your shop.
@@andreashartung8921 pick up the phone and call me contact info is on my website and and in my video
Hi Paul, I would like to call you, but the problem is that I do not speak and understand English fluently. Especially when it comes to technical terms.
So i pull out the gear and follow your instructions. And i think, that was it! I did not have to disassemble the gear to fix the problem.
As a thank you, I bought your book on Amazon. Is is great, you are great! Thanks a lot!
Edit: Sorry, one more questions: How much oil do you have to fill in the overdrive?
Fill up, drive, fill up, ready? My mechanic filled the oil on a lift during operation and now the oil runs out of the seal of the tv cable.
How does the gear lube get into the tail shaft?
10 minutes into the video... Watch it
Hopefully this isn't a dumb question but can the 4 speed manual have the gears swapped to be more like an automatic overdrive ratio gears? I have a manual 4 speed and would like an overdrive. I know the Doug Nash did it with bolting an overdrive to the rear. Why can't the gears just be changed?
It can be done but because there is little interest, no company is going to invest in the tooling, time and costs to do something on that scale.
@@GearBoxVideo Oh I see I thought maybe it was just a matter of swapping gears that had the same ratios as an automatic 4 speed overdrive.
Randall your obviously NOT a motorhead the room in a 4 sp will NOT accommodate another gear & slider assembly just not enough room bro why not purchase a Liberty box or Richmond sells a 5 spd Your asking why two completely different trans can't be more like the other . One uses hydraulic pressure Or fluid to operate the other a manual clutch ..
In reference to your drilled holes in the mid plate, what size drill did you use?
3/8
@@GearBoxVideo Paul thanks so much. Really appreciate the videos. Haven't been able to find anyone near me that even touch manuals any more. Truly a Godsend! Ordering your book as well as a rebuild kit for my car. Thanks a million for fantastic videos!
I have a new Super T10 on my 79 T/A it will jump out of second gear on deceleration sometimes. Any recommendations as to what I should check for?
You will usually need a second gear and or a complete 1-2 assembly sometimes the thrust surface of the hub wears
@@GearBoxVideo thanks for the quick reply! not what I was hoping the trans was brand new with less then a hundred miles on it, took it back and they replaced the locks and synchros put it back in and still happens occasionally. Was hoping shift linkage adjustment.
I have a super t10 in my 66 chevelle, motor was dyno’ed at 475hp, 503ft/lb. Right now I have the 6 ring, 3.42 1st gear. 1. Is the transmission strong enough to handle the motor. 2. Should I switch to 2 or 3 ring? Most of the driving I’m doing is street cruising.
It depends on the axle ratio, which you have failed to disclose. Tranmsmission and rear work together. 3.42 will usually break since it is ultra wide ratio.
@@GearBoxVideo 3.36 10 bolt posi
2.64 ratio is the way to go
This was a very informative video, as was the Super T10 disassembly.! I am trying to determine an issue with my 1975 Corvette Super T10. Following a previous rebuild by another party,and having noticeable gear noise, I have disassembled the trans and noticed that First gear and the Forward Reverse Idler were making slight contact. I thought a Reverse Idler thrust washer might have been left out, but both were in place. What I did find was a missing spacer on the midplate bearing. Is it possible this could cause the First gear and Forward Reverse Idler to come into contact?
Side cover leaked all my oil out and I didn’t not realize until it was too late and now I suspect my main bearings are burnt up. Is it possible to replace the main bearings without disassembling the entire transmission?
Watch my Muncie tapes series. This way you can see what is involved.
Curious why you suspect the main bearings are toast. I may be in the same boat unfortunately. A local shop rebuilt the trans a few years ago but I had major problems with them so don’t want to take it back. Just noticed the leaking and a little bit of noise in neutral that I don’t remember before. Could’ve been there though, I’m not positive. Not sure if that’s normal or not.
Ball bearings can survive on little oil. Usually the gears will get scuffed and gouged out because of low oil levels.
Good info, thanks for your response. Your videos are invaluable
Hello guys! I have a problem with my Audi a3 8L 1.6, manual transmission, from 2001 and i wonder if you could give me an idea on what might cause it. Sometimes the car has shifting problems. It goes very hard into gear. first gear is especially hard to engage. when i go into reverse it grinds a bit. But all the gears are difficult to engage, not just 1st and reverse. This happens only when the engine is turned on. With the engine turned off, the shift works perfectly. In some cases, if i turn off the engine, wait for a few moments and then start again, the shifts return to normal and the car works just fine. the strange thing is that this happens only from time to time and it's not a permanent problem. Could it be just a worn out clutch or pressure plate. I think my transmission is a 02k model. thanks!
You have a clutch release issue. Could be bad hydraulics such as a master or slave cylinder.
thanks for your answer!
How should I go about removing 1st and 2nd gear from my super T10. I have 2 4 speeds. I need 1 to be a 2 speed for short tracks and keep one for 4 speed on longer tracks. The 2 i have were built for racing in ASA. and have never been ran.
Running a open wheel MODIFIED on asphalt the 4 pounds of weight loss could be the difference between winning and losing. I am in Florida also. I have looked everywhere for a tutorial. I cant find one. This is the closest I have found.
leave the 1-2 hub and first gear bushing in and remove the gears. Leave the slider and fork in. You can pin the 1-2 shaft to the cover in neutral to avoid it moving.
@@GearBoxVideo im in Sanford same state as you. I am used to running 2 speed muncie. Know how to build them, and know tons of people that build them in my area, Mainly BUZZY FUNK. This is the first time I have ever owned not only 1 but 2 Super T10 transmissions. Both are 2 ring inputs. BUZZY won't touch them. They are both freshly built transmissions. I would sell them and buy a Jericho, but we aren't allowed to run straight cut gears in my class. They just started allowing us to use 2 speeds. These transmissions came with a brand new LEFTHANDER MODIFIED I bought that has sat inside a trailer at a JUNKYARD in Melbourne. I have run into an issue, I have no clearance for the 4 speed HURST Indy short throw or competition plus short throw moded shifters. So I need to sell these and buy an M22
2 speed. . I have seen how much Super T10s are valued at on the low end. Im wondering if I should just get rid of what I don't know and get what I do know and have 30 years of experience working on. Advice?
The ST10 and Muncie have similar shifter mounting points. So I don't see what the problem is.
How did you go about pressing the bushing into the tail housing?
I do it on my press. With a cup that fits the bushing
@@GearBoxVideo thanks
Very good job loved the video ! But I am confused about something why use sealed bearings for the support shaft ? I have been around cars most of my life and sooner or later the grease inside gets caked and heated up and contaminated and then you have bearing galling and the bearing fails. With an open bearing you are continually getting oil circulated through both bearings helping with not only cooling the bearing but bearings are also continually being lubricated with gear oil being circulating in the transmission. I myself would not go with a sealed bearing. Please explain to me why this is a better system to go on a standard trans?
Hi, thanks for your concerns. Your theory sounds correct but you may want to watch my video on bearings. Most standard transmissions with ball bearings today run sealed bearings. In fact most of the Vettes in 1984-88 with the ST10 OD had sealed bearings in the front and back of the 4 speed section with zero bearing failures over 100K miles.The theory is flawed because the biggest failure issue is DIRT. Remember there are no filters in these transmissions and in the output area people grind reverse often. Reverse sits right behind that bearing. One grind of reverse can destroy a new bearing dumping gear chips directly into the bearing before they reach the front magnet. Now I understand the "most of my life" thing. However try and understand that out of the thousands of transmissions built especially some of the top running units in SCCA, Historic TransAM etc..... ZERO FAILURES. What you don't understand that sealed bearings SUBMERGED in oil actually do get oil in them. Just because you think oil flowing thru the bearing is important for cooling, that is also not necessarily true. The outside of the bearing dissipates heat into the oil bath. Now if you are still paranoid about using a sealed bearing and worried about things that we have never seen happen just go with shielded bearings. You'll get some protection and more lube. Some people demand shielded bearings rather than sealed bearings despite my real world experience in building race transmissions with them. I'm always happy to give them want they want. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
I’m trying to put a 4 speed on my
78 camaro which one should I
Go with? Muncie of a super t-10
Depends on a few things like axle ratio, engine, HP and type of use. You have to look at the overall picture. Each has its own pros and cons.
If you're buying a used transmission, super t-10s are way less expensive. Just stay away from the Saginaws.
Super Duty 455 I have a th350 now, do I need to get a new driveshaft if I go with the super t-10
@@andreg8192 Maybe just the yoke?
Hi, I rebuilt my super t10 for my 80 Z28, My 1-2 synchro sleeve is slightly "looser" or has more play than my 3-4 sleeve, Would you be alarmed?
Adam Gasiewski That's normal. I would worry about it
Would or Wouldn't ? haha.. This was my first transmission rebuild so I guess I am over looking. Thanks!
Congrats! Keep me posted on the results and post your build on transmissionbook.com
wouldn't...
I’m workin on a 1977 dodge d100. 4 speed it does have over drive. I bought a Chrysler a833 trans rebuild book. And I took it apart cleaned everything 100%. And I took everything apart the way it said. I put it together the way it said to as well. And now I’m a bit confused. When I spin the input shaft while the sliders are in neutral. It also spins the output shaft. And when I put it into gear it doesn’t spin at all. It locks up. I’m confused if I did sum wrong of it it is supposed to do this anyone have any idea? Am I not supposed to be able to spin it while it’s in gear, with my hand?
Sometimes new rings stick to the gears when dry. Use a yoke in the back and try and rock it loose. Dry shifting a transmission with new rings often times will cause the ring to stick to the gear. I have a video on Stuck Synchro rings. Search for it on my channel
GearBoxVideo I didn’t use new synchro rings the old ones looked good, no rounding of the teeth and the grooves in the syncro seemed alright! I can spin it when the slide isn’t touching any synchros. What as soon as I put it forward or backward it only always it to spin a very little bit back and forth. I greased everything when I put it together so it wouldn’t stick
@@caleb4750 One gear is bound up. Shift into every gear and try to turn input shaft. If it turns in only one gear, then that gear is bound up. In any other gear you have 2 gears engaged at same time in effect.
Do you have the transmission input shaft simply stuck in a flywheel as a makeshift fixture to assemble the tail housing?
No most fixtures bolt to the case. Why would you want to create a fixture to an item that must be installed?
@@GearBoxVideo I believe you have misunderstood what I'm asking. It looked like you had the transmission standing nose down in a flywheel as you were installing the tail shaft housing. Am I seeing it wrong? I need a type of fixture hold the trans to simplify my main shaft speedo drive gear installation.
No just a special fixture
@@GearBoxVideo This was clarified for me in another one of your instructional videos. You mentioned you were using an old case as a make shift holder of sorts while having the transmission nose down. Thank you, Paul for your responses to my questions!!! Elijah
I can't find part 1 ! Is it the T10 disassembly vid ?
th-cam.com/video/zhUJD2PBmE0/w-d-xo.html
@@GearBoxVideo Thought so ! Thanks .
How do I get a RICHMOND 5 speed transmission for my 84 c4 corvette?
Just buy one
Get a TKX 5 speed from Modern Driveline
What gear oil goes in the Muncie 4 speed?
GL4 only oil 75-90wt Check out my video on this channel on GL4-GL5 oils
Super Video!
Thank you.
Do you think 2.88 gear set will hold up to 450 ft lbs!
dwownds on the axle ratio... usually not good for drag racing
How do I get your rebuild kit for super t10?
See www.5speeds.com/cart