Fuji Acros 100 - My First Try Shooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- I was lucky enough to have two rolls of Fuji Acros 100 sent to be by a subscriber and Instagramer to try out.
Now, I have never shot this stuff before so I was quite excited to give it a go!
I went to Yarmouth Pier on the Isle of Wight one summers evening armed with one roll and a Nikon F90x.
Keeping it simple I shot the shit out the roll and returned home and developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 13.5 minutes.
I was very happy with the results. Like I say in the video I would need to shoot more of this stuff to really get to know it, however, my first impressions have lasted.
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Acros is probably my favourite b&w film. Good video as always.
Nice one! Super images! I love Acros, but when they announced it was going away I embraced T-MAX 100 as a substitute and I think I actually prefer it now. I still have a number of Acros rolls to work through though. Something I really enjoy about Acros is it’s extremely low reciprocity failure. If Acros II keeps the same tonality and reciprocity properties it will be a winner!
Rather than pushing the next film, bang a red filter or yellow filter on your lens and get out. Love how contrasty you can get it and with a dark sky, even better!
i second this motion mostly for my own selfish reasons of wanting to see how Acros looks with contrast filter so I know what to expect when I start shooting it again this fall
Always great content, glad you enjoyed the Fuji Acros film
Enjoy your work videos and photos.
No matter how my day has gone, it ALWAYS ends well when Roger 'the Dodger' has a new video.. Thanks mate 👍
Lol.
They are going to make it again man. Out in fall...
I love Acros. When they discontinued it I bought up a few rolls so I could keep shooting it when I wanted. And then they announced Acros II. I've only shot Acros in 120 so once they release Acros II I'll buy a bunch of 35mm. Flat lighting makes for some beautiful portraits and full sun works great for landscapes.
It's back.
As far as I know, there is no domestically available scanner (flatbed) that has a resolution better than the average DSLR. I shoot with a macro lens (actually a cheap set of bellows with old manual 50mm lens in reverse) down onto a light box. My aim is to take at least 2 images (overlapped) depending on the size of film. I also shoot large format 4x5 and take 4 overlapped images. I then use Photoshop to stick them together again. This results in an image much larger than the original negative with more than enough detail...
@Azriel Knight: This is just about digitising an image to use on a computer. Depending on the image you may be able to recover the highlights in editing software or in the darkroom.
Another Fantastic Video! Love the images and humor as well!
Cheers BW!
Have to agree, I love Acros. Can’t wait to see what Acros II is like. Great video, BTW.
Great video as always. Ive shot acros in 120 a lot and it has a good look to it. Its especially good for long exposures due to the films resistence to reciprocity failure. Hopefully the new film will have the same characteristics.
Good what you did with that spoon. BTW, I used it a couple of years ago for street photography (well, the 120 version, and a loud Bronica S2a doesn't make for discrete shots) and was pleased with the outcome.
Shot Acros for the first time only a few months back. I figured that I should probably give it a shot before it disappeared. Then they announced they were bringing it back...
Anyway, I loved it. Smooth, sharp and contrasty. Oh, and even though everyone says that you should develop it in Rodinal, Xtol, and so on, I did mine in plain old 1+1 D-76 and it came out beautifully.
Acros 100 is my favorite black and white film. Great video. Great production. Great photography!
Thanks mate.
I have used Acros 100 and like it as well.I've gotten some nice images with mine and find it to be a a fairly low grain film that gives good contrast and detail. I havent pushed any of mine yet so will look forward to seeing what your pics will be like when you push your other roll.
R09 doesn't have sodium sulfite in it, so the appearance of grain is more apparent, however the image appears sharper due to the fine edged grain. I looked very close to some of your light gray areas in the results at the end of the video, and grain was visible. Good thing is that Acros 100 has very small grain, so using R09 is not so bad. Of course, if you don't mind grain, I personally don't like a lot of it.
hahaha love the intro !
Really nice set of images. I knew you were going to enjoy that film, especially for printing. The most I ever pushed it was 400.
Pushing it to 400 sounds like a plan. I will do that on Saturday.
@@aristoioannidis7490 I like to use HC110 @ 1:63 (half the dilution of B) 75° for 10:00 minutes with only a couple of agitations, 1 turn at 3 minute, 1 at 6 minute. Super negative to print from. Of course, everybody has their way I suppose.
I like the images you created, really good with a great film stock. I love the new scene fade out too, very rotatie. :)
Happy accident! Ha ha. Thanks Andrew.
Amazing images!
They’ve just brought out a new version, Acros II!
Acros is coming back his fall! (Or Autumn, as you call it) I can't wait. It was my favorite film and was pretty bitter when it was discontinued. It's a new emulsion but Fuji rarely disappoints so I'm looking forward to it
Yes, in Japan first I read. Still I look forward to getting some.
I’ve not used Fuji films at all, but will give it a try when it’s available. Your vertical shot of the boats and mast reflections is lovely. Did you use a filter for the sun? Thanks for making the video Roger.
j henline it’s discontinued, there is talk of it coming back though in a few months. Domestically in Japan first then if it sells well it will come back to the market.
No I didn't. And it was a shot I was surprised to see came out better than I thought. Of all those images that one made me think how solid this film is. Well spotted.
love the video and love Acros, it has a very wide dynamic range, I hope Acros II is just as good :)
Not sure when it's going to be available in the US or Europe.
I love this film!! Got a load in the fridge :-) p.s. you should o got a word in about your lack of a scanner before Pete did! :-D Great vid m8 :-) Really enjoyed this. By the way...... That was a lot of printing!! :-)
Cheers mate. Pete loves it. Can't be happier for him. You're a kind bloke. 😉 Bring it out when we shoot
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss I'm glad Pete's got it :-)
Nice video. I like Acros 100 but find the 35mm curls terribly when drying. If you're going to push it in 35mm Rodinal may give you more grain than you may like. I've had good luck with Xtol.
hello, nice video, as always. I'd like to see how you wash and dry the fiber paper. thank you
I have a video on that recently Ilford mg art 300.
Well it's bedtime here in NZ but what the heck...almost Saturday :-) Thanks.
I'm in Nelson, should be sleeping too.
Sorry chaps 😳😁
nice choice of film
Li ONGI yes good film choice - but why Rodinal for the developer???
@@bthemedia the sender and a few others suggested rodinal. It wouldn't have been my first choice but I went with the flow.
bwvids no matter which developer had been used, it is just a kind of habit.
I use DDX for any kind of films, no matter it is T grain like Tmax/Delta or G grain like bergger/HP5+.
But I am sure some day I would try other developers for my films to compare against DDX developed films to see how it react to prints and scans.
Canon ftb with 35 to 70 mm zoom ftb mount
Why Rodinal for the developer? Or is that what you always use for all BW films?
I believe that film (Acros) + developer (Rodinal) combination is debatable for the quality of results.
It was recommended by the sender of the film... And a few others.
bwvids rodinal works really good for that film. But every photographer wants to create his own look. For me, i adore this developer for its sharpness and grain 😊
Hi! I'm just getting my first enlarger to set up my first ever darkroom. I was wondering which safelights you use? The Kaiser 4018 box thing or the Paterson lights?
And where do you get your replacement enlarger bulbs? Could I use third party? I'm getting a Durst M601, a similar one to yours
Get good enlarger photographic bulbs online. They are not expensive. I use a kodak safelight but recently made my own if you didn't see the video James. Good to hear you are setting up a darkroom. You'll Love it.
Great shots 👍🏻. Quick question, why would DSLR ‘scans’ be worse than a scanner? I’m new to film photography, but I would have thought a DSLR with a macro lens would do a good job of digitising the negatives.
Christopher Grundy it really depends on your DSLR setup and technique and whatever scanner you have. I’ve scanned on an old Nikon scanner (said by many to be one of the best film scanners) but it took about 25 minutes per image for high quality scans. I’ve also used a Eason 750. Now I scan using my Nikon D750 and a macro lens and it has opened up my film photography so much by allowing me to scan a roll in 30 minutes. My RAW DSLR images exceed the scans that I got from Richard Photo Lab, a pro lab. I’m pro DSLR scanning, and as long as you have good technique it gives amazing results!
Zach B Thanks for the information. The only information I had on flatbed scanners was that they weren’t the best option for 35mm film. I’m tentatively reading into to it having just started developing my own Black and White negatives.
If I may ask, when you use your DSLR and a Macro lens to do this, are you capturing the image at 1:1?
@@christophergrundy5307 hi, in general flatbeds arent the best for 35mm. Ive been using a fuji xpro1, canon fd 55mm lens, copy stand and a cheap light table/pad. I can set it up in 5-10 minutes and scan a roll in about 20mins. I use an old epson scanner neg holder.
I use the macro with the extension for 1:1, i fill the frame as much as i can which means going in quite close. At 1:2 ratio im too far away and the image size on the digital camera is small. For 35mm scans a 16mp sensor is all you need. For 120 film i sometimes stitch 3/4 photos together for higher image resolution.
Its well worth doing as long as you have the digital camera. All the others bits cost me about £140. Hope this helps a bit.
fbvcv ftygfdg Thanks for responding 😀. It is definitely helpful. I think I will give it a go as I have the digital camera and macro lens already.
I will try it with a white screen on my tablet first and the look for a dedicated light pad for future use.
@@christophergrundy5307 sounds like you have the expensive stuff already! Main thing to check is the camera and light pad are level. I used my mobile phone screen for my first proof shots and it worked surprisingly well. I also used my tripod for a while with the column inverted so the camera was pointing down, it works but is a faff to set up.
Hi there.
Please take one advice from me, pull your film instead of using box speed and don't even try pushing film, especialy in the 100 asa region.
If you really need speed, choose an apropriarate film like 400 or 3200 asa.
All your shadow detail gets lost while pulling your film, remember what Ansel Adams said, "where no light hits the film there can never be an image formed"
This is a fact.
So please pull your your last roll of Acros and let us see the results, you will be amazed.
Cheers Bret. In which case I'll split the film, push half and pull the other. How many stops do you suggest I pull?
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss
Hi there,
As I always do, over expose the film by 2/3 to 1 stop so in case of an iso 100 film, set your exposemeter for 64 -50 iso and reduce develope time by 20-25%.
This should give you much more finer grain and exellent shadow detail.
Best is to meter for the shadows and reduce the metered exposure by 2 stops (now you are in the zone system at zone III).
Good luck and don't waist your film by pushing it !
@@bertcremers3134 I wouldn't sway anyone away from experimenting with pushing film. We know the pitfalls, lack of shadow detail, more grain, more contrast. I guess it comes down to experimenting with possibilities and seeing what happens if. I've pushed film in the past for various reasons. Mainly if I need extra speed and I haven't got a faster film in my bag because the local store has no 3200, it's a dull day and a really want to shoot that rally going on down town. Other times I'll push a film just because I can and to see how it handles. Of course if I'm planning a woodland or scenic shoot or portrait I'd make sure I have the film I need. But I wouldn't say pushing film is wasting time. If anything I'd say give it a go and see how it looks. The guy that gave the the acros asked me to push it. So I shall give it a go and see how it looks. But after your comment about pulling the film I shall take on board and split the acros half push and half pull. It's going to be street photography on that roll so should be interesting to see. Thanks for your advice Bert. Appreciated
Cheers Bret, it all depends on the situation. It some applications I’ve pushed ilford P 50. I’ve also pushed p3200 to 6400. Sure, it’s grainy, but it’s given me decent results. More of less, it depends on what your using as a developer and the film.
@@nutsackstapler Hi there Casey.
Thanks for your response.
It is not my intention to keep you away from pushing film, if you like the disadvantages like grain and contrast increase please go ahead.
One of my favorite TH-camrs is Adrian from AOS, he exposes HP-5 as 800 iso and creates very impressive moody photo's
But sometimes I thing it is "fashion" amongst photographers to to push film and talk like it is better...
That's when I wonder why we buy expensive top brand film, lenses and camera's and throw all qualities away by torturing your precious negatives, and simultaniously say you strives for perfection.
Hope this explanes my thoughts.
Cheers.
Some really nice images there. I can not understand the need by some people to push B&W film, all you get is poor quality, if you want 400 speed, use 400 asa film, if you want 1600 speed ( as some do) use 3200 asa and pull it one stop. I have a book some where and in it the author states that people that say they like grain is because they are incapable of getting the very best quality from the film that they are using.
Yes I agree to some extent. Pushing to get speed when you need it and you haven't got a faster film in the bag. On the other hand it's fun to play and see what happens. As Robert suggested it I'll give it a go.
Hi Mamiyapress.
I absolutely agree with you !
All of my films I PULL instead of using box speed.
The end result is dramaticly better, finer grain, more shadow detail.
For example:
Kodak T-Max 100 > EI 64
Delta 100 > EI 50
Kodak 3200 > EI 100
All these films I have personly tested with my developer of choice Ilford's LC 29
just a friendly reminder: AFTER brexit, Fujifilm's incomparable Acros will be even more expensive!! #economics #nobrexit #wakeupandsmellthecoffeebrexiteers