It doesn't get much more American than a son helping his dad to install a fuel pump in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. Bravo!. 98 ZJ is the last of its generation.
With this tutorial I was able to change my 1994 jeep grand Cherokee’s fuel pump. Honestly that shit was hard for a beginner like me. Hardest part about the process was putting the damn tank back on. My tank was 3/4 full and heavy. To get it on I had to get right under that bitch and let one side crush me while a friend jacked up the other side where the hoses that connect to the fuel cap is. The gas tank needed to be angled to get the hoses through the little fuel cap hole, so getting crushed was a must. All the work was worth it though because after 4 tedious hours she turned over like new. All it cost was a $140 fuel pump and a good time with my bud. I can imagine that a job like this woulda cost me my left asscheek at a mechanic shop. Thank you. You a real ass G.
Thanks for the video, been learning from your channel! Picked up my ZJ six months ago and it needed a TLC. Your channel has become my go-to channel for any ZJ related content!
That’s awesome! Love to hear that! We’ve got a new off-road bumper coming for the ZJ that’s a DIY weld type, and we already bought a new 12k winch for it. Then we’re doing ball joints, so lots of ZJ content coming. Stay tuned!
Hey Joel, this is an awesome vid! I have the identical symptom/issue, so you helped me immensely. I also agree with the non-factory part issues. I kept blowing out things as small as a TPS! As soon as I put in a Mopar part…smooth sailing. On another note, I feel like you and I should be buddies in real life 😂 I’m in Colorado, have a 3 car garage, a jeep ZJ, a Jeep JK, and a vintage Ford pickup! 😁👍🏻
Haha nice, that's awesome! We're putting out a video on the F-250 shortly, cause I finally got the dumb thing to turn over after not marking any of the wiring harness and leaving it in a pile in the garage for 18 months. Thanks for commenting and hope to meet you on a trail!
Thanks for the very good Video-Dokumentation, today i changed the pump on my 98 zj 5.2 Canada model in Colombia, what a mess ;) It seems like before i had no pressure of gasoline because the pump and the filter had lifetime of 190000km! Very good, now its like new ;) Congratulations this Video is very good!!!
I was surprised that the fuel filter has the regulator built in. It is good that it is "easy" to replace, but it also makes the filter pretty expensive, compared to others I'm used to.
Thank you for the tip regarding the replacement height solution. QUESTION: Why did you NOT replace the other fuel filler side hoses? Those are same age, will probably crack/leak in the future.
Its a judgment call. If you want to be safe, there's no reason not to replace them, because you're right, they're just as old as the pump. However, I've done a lot of pump replacements over the years without changing the hoses and it hasn't bit me yet. Also, a key component of replacing multiple parts like that is to remember to order them in advance, and after 35 years of wrenching, this is still a skill that eludes me. Thanks for the question!
Nice. I am a bit torn right now. I have a 97 limited with the 5.9 and I JUST parked it 2 weeks ago, Went out to fire her up and she cranked cranked cranked wanted to start then cranked. I checked the fuel rail for pressure. Nothing. I dread having to change this out. Thank you for the video!
It really wasn't that bad, which surprised us. We've done a few tanks over the years and usually hurt ourselves and dump gas everywhere. But Jeep put all the connections where they are surprisingly easy to get to. There's a few jobs on this rig we don't EVER want to do again (looking at you, transmission), but we'd pull the tank again without any hesitation. Not a bad job. Good luck on yours and thanks for the comment!
@@MotorsandMischief Haha thanks for the response. Crazy thing is..the Transmission is acting weird. It takes forever to shift and then feels like it revs up like its slipping. I think its either a solenoid or band issue...also its overfilled by a quart..haha. Geez. Thank you again :)
@@tangledline Had this problem last year, the oil starts foaming, and creates an air pocket in the mornings, even if its just a little overfilled. acted like it was slipping, and my shift lever for the transmission was jammed up on a hydraulic line underneath the driver's side. Must have been a branch that pulled it. Thats was the original problem. I added a quart of stop slip to it without pulling some out, i used a soap dispenser, and old vacuum line to suck it out. Didnt have a problem untill the fuel pump failed. Hard starts to no start now.
Thank you! Yes, absolutely! Where we showed you how to disconnect the fuel line, just run it into a suitable container and then use the fuel pump to pump out the fuel by turning the key and letting it run. It might run until the tank is empty if the computer is looking for a certain fuel pressure to stop pumping, or it may only run for a certain amount of time (in which case you can just keep turning the key off and back to run (not start, of course)). Leaving it in wasn't too bad but it will for sure be lots lighter if you drain it first. Thanks for commenting!
I’d it doesn’t run till the tank is dry just use a jumper wire in place of the relay and then it will continue to run just be sure you don’t forget about it and kill the battery once the tank is dry.
I didn't see you remove & replace the tank gasket - the big black rubber ring/sleeve that seals the fuel pump module to the tank neck and white screw-on ring. I changed the pump or fuel pickup in a 1994 Chrysler LHS, a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel, and a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ that all had the same big rubber ring/sleeve. No need for RTV sealant. A light coating of P-80 THIX Rubber Assembly Lube on the gasket and tank threads makes reassembly much easier.
We did put the seal on the fuel tank module, but the new one fought us quite a bit so we didn't have as much footage of that as we would have liked, since we were focused on fighting with the seal. Great tip on the THIX Rubber Assembly Lube, we're going to order some of that up today! Thanks for the great comment!
Thanks! And yes it should be very similar. The fuel pump is a different part number for 97-98, so your electrical connections may be different, but the overall process should be just like what we show. Thanks for the question!
@@MotorsandMischief Awesome, thanks for the reply. Might end up following along with your transmission removal video next to fix my cracked flex plate, not looking forward to that one haha
Good luck! If it makes you feel better, we've done a LOT of transmissions the last year or two and the ZJ transmission was actually the most straight-forward and least hassle. So you got that going for you lol. Thanks again!
There's a lot of unknowns to be able to answer that. Is it acting up since the accident? What's it doing? how hard were you hit? How much damage did the Jeep sustain? Probably most importantly, do you have the tow bar installed? That tow bar is a factory recall fix for gas tank damage (and explosions) when the ZJ is rear ended without a tow bar. Given all of the above that we don't know, yeah, it could have been damaged when you got rear ended. But if it was us, we'd want to do a lot more diagnosis before throwing a pump at it. Thanks for the question!
It is, there’s not really enough room to get it out without jacking. But if you have a set of oil change ramps or similar that you could back the Jeep on to you should be good. Thanks for the question!
Did you replace the seals or o-rings in the quick connect fittings? I have a ‘93 that needs a fuel pump and I’m pretty sure they will leak if not replaced.
Subbed and will be using the Amazon link for a pump soon Mine is having a similar issue to urs runs fine but after sitting the fuel drains back in the tank so starting can be annoying
Nice!!! Thank you! And after running the Jeep for a while now, we can say that the new fuel pump not only fixed the back flow problem, but it really pepped up the Jeep's response. We figure the old pump was more tired (tireder?) than we realized cause there's a noticeable improvement to driving it now. Hope you get that extra benefit too. Thanks for commenting!
Nope! 3 bolts into the frame each side, captive nuts are already installed by the factory. FYI there is a service bulletin on ZJs to have that tow bar installed because without it if they get rear ended the tank can explode. Thanks for the question!
Shot in the dark on if you're still replying to comments. How on earth do i get the evap line disconnected the rubber soft section seemingly just stretches instead of coming apart. And then i can't see how i would be supposed to get it back together, with how difficult it's been to get apart
Old evap lines are tough and if yours are rotted through, there's not much that can be done except replace them. If the integrity of the line is good, and its just stuck, the best luck we've had is carefully gripping them with a pair of pliers where they attach and twisting first. This breaks the vulcanization on the rubber and allows the hose to slide off, usually without damage. Good luck on your Jeep and thanks for the question!
I ended up skipping that step and just working around it. Which I've had to do several times in the life of this jeep lmao. As long as the end result is good and correct, right?
Is the 95 the same pump? And just out of curiosity could you cut a hole in the body then access the pump from above? I live in Ohio so it’s well rusted and I hate the thought of doing all that when I could just cut a hole 😂
The 93-96 use a different pump. We’re not sure if it’s a significantly different procedure or just a different pump. As far as cutting out the rear hatch, yes we’ve done this and it works fine. Be really careful cutting it out cause there’s lots of stuff under the deck you don’t want to cut, and some of it will explode if you cut it with anything that sparks. We hate when we’re working on something and then explode. The best option is a “nibbler” Harbor Freight has a cheap on and it will cut out the metal without sparking or accidentally cutting anything below. Reattaching the metal is a pain. Good luck to you!
I understand why you went the whole hog and changed the fuel pump and pressure regulator. A quick and far easier fix would have been just to install a fuel non return valve in the fuel supply line forward of the tank. Much less involved and far cheaper
You are correct, that would have fixed the fuel draining back into the tank and corrected the slow start condition. However as far as we could tell the fuel pump was original and 200k is an awful lot on a factory pump so we decided to fix the valve and get ahead of the pump in one fell swoop. As we found the in tank filter completely disconnected from the pump when we pulled it, we think it was probably a good call. But your method will for sure work for anyone who doesn't think their pump is sus and thank you for sharing!
@@MotorsandMischief Yes I totally agree with your decision to pull the pump. However installing a cheap and easy fuel non return one way valve in the fuel pressure line would confirm your conclusion ref back flow of fuel into the tank. Others who read this may want cheaper and easier options.
Ours has been running really strong now for a few months since we replaced this, and it really wasn't that bad. If you have any questions while you're doing yours just hit us up. Thanks for commenting!
Ok so it’s not you, those things are a giant pain in the behind. They are taller than the tank and the pump assembly compresses as you push it down and put the lock ring on. Except it doesn’t like to stay and the new seal doesn’t want to compress so it’s a total fight. All we can say is put it in, compress it down so it seats lit it’s supposed to, use a little silicon spray in the seal and just keep working it. It will go, even tho you get to the point where you are positive you have a pump for a different vehicle, possibly a D9 Cat by how badly it seems to fit. But it will go. Eventually it just slides in. Good luck!
They are not. The 97 is the same as the 98. 93 and 94 are the same. We added some links in the description if you'd like to get it off of Amazon. Although the pumps are different, the procedure laid out in the video is basically the same. Thanks for the question!
Thanks for watching! Stick around and check out some of our other videos, including our Project Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ we're doing with Dr. Torque!
It doesn't get much more American than a son helping his dad to install a fuel pump in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. Bravo!. 98 ZJ is the last of its generation.
With this tutorial I was able to change my 1994 jeep grand Cherokee’s fuel pump. Honestly that shit was hard for a beginner like me. Hardest part about the process was putting the damn tank back on. My tank was 3/4 full and heavy. To get it on I had to get right under that bitch and let one side crush me while a friend jacked up the other side where the hoses that connect to the fuel cap is. The gas tank needed to be angled to get the hoses through the little fuel cap hole, so getting crushed was a must. All the work was worth it though because after 4 tedious hours she turned over like new. All it cost was a $140 fuel pump and a good time with my bud. I can imagine that a job like this woulda cost me my left asscheek at a mechanic shop. Thank you. You a real ass G.
Thanks so much for the great comment! Glad the video helped!
Thanks for the video, been learning from your channel! Picked up my ZJ six months ago and it needed a TLC. Your channel has become my go-to channel for any ZJ related content!
That’s awesome! Love to hear that! We’ve got a new off-road bumper coming for the ZJ that’s a DIY weld type, and we already bought a new 12k winch for it. Then we’re doing ball joints, so lots of ZJ content coming. Stay tuned!
Love seeing the ZJ!
Nice video! I like the way you laid this out
Hey Joel, this is an awesome vid! I have the identical symptom/issue, so you helped me immensely. I also agree with the non-factory part issues. I kept blowing out things as small as a TPS! As soon as I put in a Mopar part…smooth sailing.
On another note, I feel like you and I should be buddies in real life 😂 I’m in Colorado, have a 3 car garage, a jeep ZJ, a Jeep JK, and a vintage Ford pickup! 😁👍🏻
Haha nice, that's awesome! We're putting out a video on the F-250 shortly, cause I finally got the dumb thing to turn over after not marking any of the wiring harness and leaving it in a pile in the garage for 18 months. Thanks for commenting and hope to meet you on a trail!
Thanks for the very good Video-Dokumentation, today i changed the pump on my 98 zj 5.2 Canada model in Colombia, what a mess ;) It seems like before i had no pressure of gasoline because the pump and the filter had lifetime of 190000km! Very good, now its like new ;) Congratulations this Video is very good!!!
Fantastic...🎉🎉
thanks for the vid. detaching the fill hoses thru wheel well panel was brilliant
So glad it helped, thanks for commenting!
I was surprised that the fuel filter has the regulator built in. It is good that it is "easy" to replace, but it also makes the filter pretty expensive, compared to others I'm used to.
Wait, we misunderstood. You mean its weird the filter is on the fuel pump or its weird the check valve is in the fuel pump?
Excellent video! I’m replacing my fuel pump today, and this video is a great help!
Nice Job Man. Nice ZJ and nice Garage!
Great info!! Nice work!! Thank You!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting!
Another information video well done
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Well done 👍🏻 thanks for the info
Thanks for being so supportive, we love it!
My 99 XJ would crank 3 or 4 times before it would run …. After a new pump and starter if fires instantly now !
Thank you for the tip regarding the replacement height solution.
QUESTION:
Why did you NOT replace the other fuel filler side hoses? Those are same age, will probably crack/leak in the future.
Its a judgment call. If you want to be safe, there's no reason not to replace them, because you're right, they're just as old as the pump. However, I've done a lot of pump replacements over the years without changing the hoses and it hasn't bit me yet. Also, a key component of replacing multiple parts like that is to remember to order them in advance, and after 35 years of wrenching, this is still a skill that eludes me. Thanks for the question!
Nice. I am a bit torn right now. I have a 97 limited with the 5.9 and I JUST parked it 2 weeks ago, Went out to fire her up and she cranked cranked cranked wanted to start then cranked. I checked the fuel rail for pressure. Nothing. I dread having to change this out. Thank you for the video!
It really wasn't that bad, which surprised us. We've done a few tanks over the years and usually hurt ourselves and dump gas everywhere. But Jeep put all the connections where they are surprisingly easy to get to. There's a few jobs on this rig we don't EVER want to do again (looking at you, transmission), but we'd pull the tank again without any hesitation. Not a bad job. Good luck on yours and thanks for the comment!
@@MotorsandMischief Haha thanks for the response. Crazy thing is..the Transmission is acting weird. It takes forever to shift and then feels like it revs up like its slipping. I think its either a solenoid or band issue...also its overfilled by a quart..haha. Geez. Thank you again :)
@@tangledline Had this problem last year, the oil starts foaming, and creates an air pocket in the mornings, even if its just a little overfilled. acted like it was slipping, and my shift lever for the transmission was jammed up on a hydraulic line underneath the driver's side. Must have been a branch that pulled it. Thats was the original problem. I added a quart of stop slip to it without pulling some out, i used a soap dispenser, and old vacuum line to suck it out. Didnt have a problem untill the fuel pump failed. Hard starts to no start now.
@@nivekbarnard1626 Thanks, im going to try that out.
That was a great video. So I guess if I was to avoid all that fuel in the tank, I can siphon it out before removing the tank.
Thank you! Yes, absolutely! Where we showed you how to disconnect the fuel line, just run it into a suitable container and then use the fuel pump to pump out the fuel by turning the key and letting it run. It might run until the tank is empty if the computer is looking for a certain fuel pressure to stop pumping, or it may only run for a certain amount of time (in which case you can just keep turning the key off and back to run (not start, of course)). Leaving it in wasn't too bad but it will for sure be lots lighter if you drain it first. Thanks for commenting!
I’d it doesn’t run till the tank is dry just use a jumper wire in place of the relay and then it will continue to run just be sure you don’t forget about it and kill the battery once the tank is dry.
Mines that way I got 1996 jeep grand cherokee limited 5.2 has 0 rust every thing in good shape
Sweet!! Man we love the ZJs. We just lifted this one 3.5" and are running 32" BFGs, video coming soon so stay tuned!
I didn't see you remove & replace the tank gasket - the big black rubber ring/sleeve that seals the fuel pump module to the tank neck and white screw-on ring. I changed the pump or fuel pickup in a 1994 Chrysler LHS, a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel, and a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ that all had the same big rubber ring/sleeve. No need for RTV sealant. A light coating of P-80 THIX Rubber Assembly Lube on the gasket and tank threads makes reassembly much easier.
We did put the seal on the fuel tank module, but the new one fought us quite a bit so we didn't have as much footage of that as we would have liked, since we were focused on fighting with the seal. Great tip on the THIX Rubber Assembly Lube, we're going to order some of that up today! Thanks for the great comment!
I put a fuel pump in my 1995 jeep grand Cherokee limied and the fuel gauge doesn't work what's the problem.
Great video. Is the process pretty much the exact same for a 95 ZJ?
Thanks! And yes it should be very similar. The fuel pump is a different part number for 97-98, so your electrical connections may be different, but the overall process should be just like what we show. Thanks for the question!
@@MotorsandMischief Awesome, thanks for the reply. Might end up following along with your transmission removal video next to fix my cracked flex plate, not looking forward to that one haha
Good luck! If it makes you feel better, we've done a LOT of transmissions the last year or two and the ZJ transmission was actually the most straight-forward and least hassle. So you got that going for you lol. Thanks again!
Wondering if it got damaged when I was rear ended on my 1996 Grand Cherokee Laredo
There's a lot of unknowns to be able to answer that. Is it acting up since the accident? What's it doing? how hard were you hit? How much damage did the Jeep sustain? Probably most importantly, do you have the tow bar installed? That tow bar is a factory recall fix for gas tank damage (and explosions) when the ZJ is rear ended without a tow bar. Given all of the above that we don't know, yeah, it could have been damaged when you got rear ended. But if it was us, we'd want to do a lot more diagnosis before throwing a pump at it. Thanks for the question!
how important is the jacking the rear end? I don't really have those tools. Is it more so for ease of dropping/clearance?
It is, there’s not really enough room to get it out without jacking. But if you have a set of oil change ramps or similar that you could back the Jeep on to you should be good. Thanks for the question!
Did you replace the seals or o-rings in the quick connect fittings? I have a ‘93 that needs a fuel pump and I’m pretty sure they will leak if not replaced.
We did not, and no leaks about 8 months later, but your mileage may vary. Thanks for the question!
Subbed and will be using the Amazon link for a pump soon Mine is having a similar issue to urs runs fine but after sitting the fuel drains back in the tank so starting can be annoying
Nice!!! Thank you! And after running the Jeep for a while now, we can say that the new fuel pump not only fixed the back flow problem, but it really pepped up the Jeep's response. We figure the old pump was more tired (tireder?) than we realized cause there's a noticeable improvement to driving it now. Hope you get that extra benefit too. Thanks for commenting!
Well 6 months later an the new pump is doing the same thing the old one did so I’m back to square one
I noticed you have a tow hitch on your jeep. Do I need to drop the fuel tank to install one of those?
Nope! 3 bolts into the frame each side, captive nuts are already installed by the factory. FYI there is a service bulletin on ZJs to have that tow bar installed because without it if they get rear ended the tank can explode. Thanks for the question!
Shot in the dark on if you're still replying to comments. How on earth do i get the evap line disconnected the rubber soft section seemingly just stretches instead of coming apart. And then i can't see how i would be supposed to get it back together, with how difficult it's been to get apart
Old evap lines are tough and if yours are rotted through, there's not much that can be done except replace them. If the integrity of the line is good, and its just stuck, the best luck we've had is carefully gripping them with a pair of pliers where they attach and twisting first. This breaks the vulcanization on the rubber and allows the hose to slide off, usually without damage. Good luck on your Jeep and thanks for the question!
I ended up skipping that step and just working around it. Which I've had to do several times in the life of this jeep lmao. As long as the end result is good and correct, right?
Yeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeyeah 😎👊🙏
Is the 95 the same pump? And just out of curiosity could you cut a hole in the body then access the pump from above? I live in Ohio so it’s well rusted and I hate the thought of doing all that when I could just cut a hole 😂
The 93-96 use a different pump. We’re not sure if it’s a significantly different procedure or just a different pump. As far as cutting out the rear hatch, yes we’ve done this and it works fine. Be really careful cutting it out cause there’s lots of stuff under the deck you don’t want to cut, and some of it will explode if you cut it with anything that sparks. We hate when we’re working on something and then explode. The best option is a “nibbler” Harbor Freight has a cheap on and it will cut out the metal without sparking or accidentally cutting anything below. Reattaching the metal is a pain. Good luck to you!
I understand why you went the whole hog and changed the fuel pump and pressure regulator.
A quick and far easier fix would have been just to install a fuel non return valve in the fuel supply line forward of the tank.
Much less involved and far cheaper
You are correct, that would have fixed the fuel draining back into the tank and corrected the slow start condition. However as far as we could tell the fuel pump was original and 200k is an awful lot on a factory pump so we decided to fix the valve and get ahead of the pump in one fell swoop. As we found the in tank filter completely disconnected from the pump when we pulled it, we think it was probably a good call. But your method will for sure work for anyone who doesn't think their pump is sus and thank you for sharing!
@@MotorsandMischief Yes I totally agree with your decision to pull the pump. However installing a cheap and easy fuel non return one way valve in the fuel pressure line would confirm your conclusion ref back flow of fuel into the tank. Others who read this may want cheaper and easier options.
Absolutely! We love when the community helps each other out and this is a great idea, way easier than pulling the tank. Thanks so much for commenting!
Is there a part number and brand?
I got the same problem on my ZJ 97..
Ours has been running really strong now for a few months since we replaced this, and it really wasn't that bad. If you have any questions while you're doing yours just hit us up. Thanks for commenting!
@@MotorsandMischief Thanks for making te video.
Ok…how on earth did you get the new pump seated? I’m losing my mind and trying really hard not to break anything 😐
Ok so it’s not you, those things are a giant pain in the behind. They are taller than the tank and the pump assembly compresses as you push it down and put the lock ring on. Except it doesn’t like to stay and the new seal doesn’t want to compress so it’s a total fight. All we can say is put it in, compress it down so it seats lit it’s supposed to, use a little silicon spray in the seal and just keep working it. It will go, even tho you get to the point where you are positive you have a pump for a different vehicle, possibly a D9 Cat by how badly it seems to fit. But it will go. Eventually it just slides in. Good luck!
@@MotorsandMischief Ok, I’ll get back after it. Thanks for the advice!
are the 97 and 94 the same fuel pump?
They are not. The 97 is the same as the 98. 93 and 94 are the same. We added some links in the description if you'd like to get it off of Amazon. Although the pumps are different, the procedure laid out in the video is basically the same. Thanks for the question!