Car enthusiast that also likes nice audio systems, talk to me about electrical lmao. Whenever I have to do engine electrical it seems so easy compared to laying upside down, feet on the roof, flashlight in the mouth an digging for the right wiring harness in the dash. 😂
@@Burnincerberus so you want your harness bendable along soldered joints? Tell me you know absolutely sweet fuck all without telling me you know absolutely sweet fuck all
Idk about you, but electrical is my bread and butter. Nothing like a giant puzzle where the pieces are all there, but you gotta make em. People install light bars and wire them into the brights, I took no knowledge and hooked em to a switch in my dash with an inline fuse to my battery. It's so fun to learn about what truly makes a car go
R8 coils are great. They do really well even with the high boost and high compression VW 2.0Ts. Only common coil that's more powerful is the GTR coil but they're like 5-6 times the price.
What is the advantage of upgrading your coil pack? The only thing I could possibly think of is slightly less weight, unless your previous one is broken I don’t see a reason to do this. He could of made his car faster by using that money on a sawzaw and cutting off anything unimportant. Any money spent on this would have been better spent towards something meaningful like high quality tires, proper racing suspension, bigger breaks that can’t hold more heat before getting spongy or mods that actually change how much power your producing forced induction, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, fuel rail, ITB’s etc….
@@Red_Cp3upgrading your coils is sometimes necessary when you increase cylinder pressures, bc the higher output voltage of the coil, the easier it is for the plug to spark, without having to gap your plugs really small, which also isn't great. It reduces missfires. Since he's not boosted, there's no point besides saving money (from what he said).
@AlexRib I've ran 12 to 18 pounds of boost, with as large as a 90mm Turbo, on stock coils with no issues multiple times. How much boost would you need to start preventing electricity jumping such a small gap.
Motive video tested them out there , 370 / r35 coil packs offer the same mJ , don’t know if 350 is much different but Audi r8 for bang for buck is a good deal and very reliable
Common solder would melt around 350f and up. I am not worried about the solder melting unless the engine is on fire. But that would the least of my concerns at that point.
Solder joints don’t do particularly well when they are faced with vibrations and the solder tends to forces it way further into the wire and cause it to be brittle and these shitty solder/shrinkrap connectors don’t handle anything as well as a proper crimp with quality heat shrink
@@crazycajunman1992 I have heard before that solder doesn't do good on vibrations. But I am interested solder is all the time used in drones, especially multicopters that they have really high frequency vibrations. what about that?
I realize I am a month late, but check on your heatshrink. It tends to split and become brittle at high temperatures. If you do not have high temperature heat shrink, you might find it is damaged from the engine heat.
That is a very low melt point solder joint. As in, it'll turn back to liquid when the engine is running for awhile. Always use crimp connections in the engine bay. Solder joints create fatigue points from the vibration and will fail.
I would advise against using solder in the engine bay. Maybe learn how to create your own adapters with the requisite pins and crimping tools. Other than that awesome stuff!
The Audi(German) upgrade for the Nissan(JDM) was a great find fam. 🎉🎉 Besides, every time you need to do wiring, you learn a little, you get better at it, AND you should always build an extra set of coil packs just in case. Working Spare Parts are a blessing in disguise.
Manufactures avoid soldering wires in cars as it makes connections brittle and subject to break from vibrations. If your ever rewiring a lot in a car, I recommend getting a good crimper.
Funny you said that. He reminds me of that dude who "turn his merc into a supercar" wrapped the thing like a taxi, except this one knows exactly what he's doing. Even the Z looks hella good.
You should use one solid wire and just repin the connector. Especially with the ignition system. Most other circuits on a car, this would work well if having to splice in anything. You could be causing resistance in the splice and loose voltage to the coil.
Those solder seal connectors are the greatest thing ever. Waterproof, strong, easy. When I can't get into somewhere, or just don't feel like soldering, it's lighter and solder seal connectors for me.
I despise them. If you're using them outside it's almost impossible to tell when it's juuuust hot enough and before you know it goes "pop" and you have to start over. They're also waterproof, for a brief time only. I've seen so many of them leak just a tiny bit, but enough to corrode the wires inside without making it super obvious. Makes for challenging troubleshooting.
@@LifeRunner4000you gotta get marine ones with the glue inside. Most people don’t realise this but any shrink wrap without the glue won’t work overtime. Marine shrink wrap solves this problem.
I mean technically these are cold solders, I would have suggested soldering them proper and then using the cold solder clear shrink tubes, but that defeats the purpose of you testing them. Should last a while, but if you have issues in future just keep those cold solders in mind in case you need to check them.
Solder, and especially low melting point solder becomes more brittle each time it warms up then cools down. Every connector on your car is crimped, not soldered for that reason. You have likely created a failure point that will be fun to diagnose in the future when one of the wires kinda starts to not make reliable contact under certain operating conditions.
@thomasmatarazzo198 plenty! Anything aftermarket, or custom will make those things worth their weight in gold. Reverse camera, stereo wiring, relays n accessories to name a few....
@thomasmatarazzo198 I just finished up a back up camera in an '04 Monty carlo, the wire is 19' long, and I had to extend it.... it's rarely a straight shot, and using fish tape and fiberglass rods, saved me from pulling door sills, back seat carpet, and trunk panels. They're not for everyone, but I've learned to use the technology available to my advantage.
you should do full 10-20 min videos where you explore every part and step because this is an interesting idea that could be a very nice journey as well
I don't think ignition coils are much of a performance upgrade just something you replace when they break which is not often on japanese cars. Found denso coils online for 220$ the more you keep oem the better
Those R8 plugs and coils are legit, I have had them in my stage 3+ 2.7t and have beat on them mercilessly for over 115k miles without changing them. No misfires or bull crap, worth the electric work.
Having the knowledge and power to do something like this just seems so cool to me. Don't have to really on someone else or a big corporation to do it for you
Hey there, I have used those low-temp solder butt-connectors quite a bit. The solder alloy used in these splices is very brittle, and doesnt always "wet" the copper. In a high temp and vibration environment, you will almost certainly run into issues in the future. I would replace all of the splices with crimped butt connectors!
If you’re going to track your car, don’t paint any part under hood. The heat will make the paint come off and it will look ugly. Also the only thing you need for a track prep is an oil cooler. Use high temp engine oil, brake fluid, diff fluid. Unless you’re changing the internals on the engine. The stock parts will do just fine. No need to upgrade the coil packs. You won’t see any gains. You’re better off spending your money on tires and changing all the fluids before and after the track day. You don’t need to upgrade your suspension unless you are going to compete. Then as you gain more skill slowly upgrade suspension as you see fit. As for aftermarket parts. Just get a race bucket seat and cage. I recommend taking out the passenger seat. Don’t gut your interior unless you already have the money for a quality roll cage. You don’t even need an exhaust. Just cut out a small section from the cat to the muffler. Ask a shop to make you a removable section. That way you can bolt it back in when ur not riding the track. These are just some things I learned along the way from experience. It will save you a ton of time and money. Don’t fall for marketing’s the car will eventually get trashed. So don’t worry about looks or brand names.
For high heat environments ,try crimp + solder seal butt terminals, or if you want something that looks even better, try non-insulated butt terminals with water proof heat shrink
Bro got the engine painted it’s more like was a show now a race car lol but it looks hella better with the race stuff n that bad ass spoiler good job guy no hate here proud of you lil bro oh hold just realized that was a photo or rendering but do that please style ur car like that shit is SUPPAA HOT FIRE lol
I went to a automotive school and my instructor who's been working on cars for Gears said that those are the best type of connectors besides soldering and heat shrink.
Nissan R35 coilpacks are probably the best on the market so far. You can also buy them new for half as much as those Audi ones cost, and you might even have been able to skip the electrical work
hey heads up when you pulled out that coil pack there was oil on it, which is no bueno. VQ's are notorious for valve cover gasket leaks so just check that out, im sure you have since this was 5 months ago, but hey, incase you haven't, might be good to just do some preventative maintenance. - Technical college + 8 years of experience as mechanic.
Ignition coils will not improve performance. It will correct a misfire under load that usually doesn't show up until warm. At least in the earlier stages of failure.
At least guy is doing performance mods, unlike the guys with the yellow Mercedes. I’d suggest doing an LS swap before you boost any vq minus the vq38dett Most boost you can throw at a vq before it throws a rod is like 10psi. Which gives you about 350ish wheel.
Just so everybody knows, they may be R8 coils but theyre used on virtually every other audi of the same generations, so the 4.2, the 3.2, the 2.0 their all the same coils
R8 injectors are good for higher compression, and boost. Replaced the oem vw coil packs in my 2014 gti when I had my APR stage 2 kit installed and it did wonders with the new turbo
I think they won't do a damn thing for your performance unless your original coils were going bad or faulty. They certainly won't add any performance without tuning for say a turbocharger or supercharger where might be able to be more aggressive on the ignition timing. Otherwise maybe they will add a bit got reliability. Something like these would be nice for my car but since it's a flat engine they would be a real PITA to install, basically requiring the engine to be lifted first for access.
Pretty sure those connectors are designed to be crimped before heat shrinking. Double check before you let it ride so you’re not scratching your head in a few months when you’re misfiring. Edit: my bad, it looks like the metal bit in the center is actually supposed to melt and solder the wires together. As long as that melted and soldered the wires together, I guess you’re good to go. Those are pretty neat. I’ve never seen them before
My boy back in the day had misfires in like 3/5 cylinders in his 2.5 5 cylinder passat. Got a set of new oem coils and within 3 months it was misfiring again. Got a set of r8 coils, never replaced them again.
So honestly if you’re going for a track car you should be crimping. Motorsport wiring is done with open barrel crimps and quality adhesive lined heatshrink. Most harness builders would recommend raychem for the heatshrink but you can get by without. Ideally you should really only be using solder sleeves when splicing in a single wire to an another parallel wire in orientation for grounding a shielded wire. When dealing with track temperatures condition and potential bending of where the solder sleeve or soldered joint are, the solder can cause the joint to become stiff since solder wicks down into the wire. If you bend it it can break. Then if the solder didn’t penetrate right you could have a short. I wouldn’t want something like a coil pack failing from a short.
Youll probably be fine if it passes the tug test it ships but ideally you want the solder band to melt and coat the wires and as the insulation shrinks itll push out some goo to seal the ends
You now have 16 soldered points on ignition alone. This will be electrical issues. Solder cracks under vibration. Use a sealed connector. Its not if. Its when.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Better than the dude with the taxi mercedes
Fuckin a that thing is terrible😭😂
Lmaooooo
Now he's doing bmw and it's even more horrendous
@@jimboh.2654I know who you're talking about, the fucking scuff ass one but whats the channel? i gotta refresh how ass it is
Is that the guy that’s literally a meme, wrapping his shit box in 12 TH-cam shorts? Hahaha
Car enthusiast that also likes nice audio systems, talk to me about electrical lmao. Whenever I have to do engine electrical it seems so easy compared to laying upside down, feet on the roof, flashlight in the mouth an digging for the right wiring harness in the dash. 😂
I just Hate trying to run a 0 gauge wire though a random ass firewall halfway under the engine 😒
You should try working on aircraft lmao😂😂😂
@@hiiamyou8847 as long as i have a manual or video i bet i could do it wont be fun tho
@@mjg06_66try running three oversized 0 awf through a fire wall shitz ballz
Wait til you accidentally stab the main harness while trying to get the power wire through the fire wall
No fool, YOU let me know what you think about the upgrade. That's why I'm here haha
lmao... so true
Yea fool!😂
I thought the same exact thing. Show us if the upgrade made a difference!!!
I think he's referring to people with expertise that can chime in with their perspective/experience....
@@ericr154 Idk pretty sure he was talking to me
Tip for next time, stagger the wires. So you can rap up the finished product without a big bulge.
I was thinking the same thing 😂. Slimmer, cleaner finish
Less chance of wires touching each other when those shitty solder sleeves let go as well
Ain’t nothin wrong with a big bulge
Don’t do that it makes less of the harness bendable dumb tip
@@Burnincerberus so you want your harness bendable along soldered joints? Tell me you know absolutely sweet fuck all without telling me you know absolutely sweet fuck all
Idk about you, but electrical is my bread and butter. Nothing like a giant puzzle where the pieces are all there, but you gotta make em. People install light bars and wire them into the brights, I took no knowledge and hooked em to a switch in my dash with an inline fuse to my battery. It's so fun to learn about what truly makes a car go
R8 coils are great. They do really well even with the high boost and high compression VW 2.0Ts. Only common coil that's more powerful is the GTR coil but they're like 5-6 times the price.
What is the advantage of upgrading your coil pack? The only thing I could possibly think of is slightly less weight, unless your previous one is broken I don’t see a reason to do this. He could of made his car faster by using that money on a sawzaw and cutting off anything unimportant. Any money spent on this would have been better spent towards something meaningful like high quality tires, proper racing suspension, bigger breaks that can’t hold more heat before getting spongy or mods that actually change how much power your producing forced induction, exhaust, injectors, fuel pump, fuel rail, ITB’s etc….
a fellow gli owner and the red tops are great
@@Red_Cp3upgrading your coils is sometimes necessary when you increase cylinder pressures, bc the higher output voltage of the coil, the easier it is for the plug to spark, without having to gap your plugs really small, which also isn't great. It reduces missfires.
Since he's not boosted, there's no point besides saving money (from what he said).
@AlexRib I've ran 12 to 18 pounds of boost, with as large as a 90mm Turbo, on stock coils with no issues multiple times. How much boost would you need to start preventing electricity jumping such a small gap.
Don't start the blue top/red top war sincerely another GLI owner @@747simmer4
Should've just run r35 gtr coils. No wiring required 😂😂
that’s boring 😅 (and more expensive)
Motive video tested them out there , 370 / r35 coil packs offer the same mJ , don’t know if 350 is much different but Audi r8 for bang for buck is a good deal and very reliable
@@ChrysGainesno flagging from ecu and how did you find that out that you can use R8 coils?
G37 coilpacks are the same as gtr r35
They've been researched yeaaaaarss ago on another vq which I believe was an Altima, remember the vq it's from the 90's@@johnmarco5017
for future use quality crimps and shrinktube when extending wires. never use solder or solder shrinks in enginebay
He's gonna be chasing major coilpack issues in the near future.
Solder? Is is gonna melt? I think if your solder joints are melting, you have bigger problems
Common solder would melt around 350f and up. I am not worried about the solder melting unless the engine is on fire. But that would the least of my concerns at that point.
Solder joints don’t do particularly well when they are faced with vibrations and the solder tends to forces it way further into the wire and cause it to be brittle and these shitty solder/shrinkrap connectors don’t handle anything as well as a proper crimp with quality heat shrink
@@crazycajunman1992 I have heard before that solder doesn't do good on vibrations. But I am interested solder is all the time used in drones, especially multicopters that they have really high frequency vibrations. what about that?
I realize I am a month late, but check on your heatshrink. It tends to split and become brittle at high temperatures. If you do not have high temperature heat shrink, you might find it is damaged from the engine heat.
I'd try wrapping the exhaust, it'll take alot of heat out of the engine bay, and maybe add a bit of air density if his intake is done right
Those solder things are the shit!! I use them all the time, they've never failed me
That is a very low melt point solder joint. As in, it'll turn back to liquid when the engine is running for awhile. Always use crimp connections in the engine bay. Solder joints create fatigue points from the vibration and will fail.
Was going to comment the same thing about the solder melting. Doesn't seem like a good idea.
Suspect crimp will do the same thing considering the pinch will be a flexion point. Proper support to isolate from vibration is the true key.
I would advise against using solder in the engine bay. Maybe learn how to create your own adapters with the requisite pins and crimping tools. Other than that awesome stuff!
Those “R8” coil packs go to the 1.8T VW from 1998-2005 the R8 stole them. Just an FYI.
Vw is Audi tf you mean stole
@@crasino8794He just has a crappy old 1.8t that uses the same housing for the coils as in the video and wants to feel a tiny bit superior (somehow??)
@@martin518441ur clueless and have no idea what ur talking about🤣 do a lil research before flapping them useless gums cause op is right
@@martin518441 my crappy old 1.8t also uses the NGK red tops :)
@@martin518441 I think my 3.2L VR6 used the same ones too
Oh man those vag coil packs are lookin dope on the vq 🔥
It's is usually best to avoid soldering wires in an engine bay. They can soften with high temps
Those seals might help though idk
The Audi(German) upgrade for the Nissan(JDM) was a great find fam. 🎉🎉
Besides, every time you need to do wiring, you learn a little, you get better at it, AND you should always build an extra set of coil packs just in case.
Working Spare Parts are a blessing in disguise.
Manufactures avoid soldering wires in cars as it makes connections brittle and subject to break from vibrations. If your ever rewiring a lot in a car, I recommend getting a good crimper.
Solid ❤
Nothing like getting into your own car!! 🤘
I thought homie was joking, but then he full sent. Respect.
Funny you said that. He reminds me of that dude who "turn his merc into a supercar" wrapped the thing like a taxi, except this one knows exactly what he's doing. Even the Z looks hella good.
You should use one solid wire and just repin the connector. Especially with the ignition system. Most other circuits on a car, this would work well if having to splice in anything.
You could be causing resistance in the splice and loose voltage to the coil.
Those solder seal connectors are the greatest thing ever. Waterproof, strong, easy. When I can't get into somewhere, or just don't feel like soldering, it's lighter and solder seal connectors for me.
I despise them. If you're using them outside it's almost impossible to tell when it's juuuust hot enough and before you know it goes "pop" and you have to start over. They're also waterproof, for a brief time only. I've seen so many of them leak just a tiny bit, but enough to corrode the wires inside without making it super obvious. Makes for challenging troubleshooting.
@@LifeRunner4000you gotta get marine ones with the glue inside. Most people don’t realise this but any shrink wrap without the glue won’t work overtime. Marine shrink wrap solves this problem.
I mean technically these are cold solders, I would have suggested soldering them proper and then using the cold solder clear shrink tubes, but that defeats the purpose of you testing them. Should last a while, but if you have issues in future just keep those cold solders in mind in case you need to check them.
Better to use u-joints and crimps. And heat shrink
Solder, and especially low melting point solder becomes more brittle each time it warms up then cools down. Every connector on your car is crimped, not soldered for that reason. You have likely created a failure point that will be fun to diagnose in the future when one of the wires kinda starts to not make reliable contact under certain operating conditions.
Nice work my dude
Appreciate it!
Keep up the hard work brother, I can’t wait to see the finished product ❤️🙌🏼
As a car dude and electrician, I love rigging my shit up with custom electronics 😂 get a set of fishing sticks and it will change y’all’s life
fellow car guy electrician here...what are fishing sticks?!
@LeifyGreens79 he's talking about sticks for pulling wire through . Not really sure what use it has on a car 😂
@thomasmatarazzo198 plenty! Anything aftermarket, or custom will make those things worth their weight in gold. Reverse camera, stereo wiring, relays n accessories to name a few....
@@jonmcdonald6374 but you're never gonna need to feed wire on a vehicle more than a few inches
@thomasmatarazzo198 I just finished up a back up camera in an '04 Monty carlo, the wire is 19' long, and I had to extend it.... it's rarely a straight shot, and using fish tape and fiberglass rods, saved me from pulling door sills, back seat carpet, and trunk panels. They're not for everyone, but I've learned to use the technology available to my advantage.
you should do full 10-20 min videos where you explore every part and step because this is an interesting idea that could be a very nice journey as well
I second that idea 👍
Got these same coils on my 1.8t. They cost like $15 each. Not a bad deal
From where?
@georgioirani, at Ecs tuning on sale. Not sure what they cost now
Yes influencers actually working on cars fans want to see worked on. A+ content bro
I don't think ignition coils are much of a performance upgrade just something you replace when they break which is not often on japanese cars. Found denso coils online for 220$ the more you keep oem the better
I guess VW guys swear by them I personally don’t know lol
@@ZootedSosa VW guys swear at them because they fail every 30k
After spending days/weeks working on your car and have it start on the first try is a feeling words cannot express.
Then when you randomly decide to sell the car. They next person gets to play with this nightmare
he made plug adapters, so its not a permanent modification
Thanks to playing the hell out of car mechanic simulator 2018 I know what he's talking about
Bro said audi r8?? Dude, they fit almost every 150hp audi/vw lmfao
FYI when cutting cables like that, do the offset. That way the connectors aren't in one fat bunch that can rub off each other.
Good tip
Those R8 plugs and coils are legit, I have had them in my stage 3+ 2.7t and have beat on them mercilessly for over 115k miles without changing them. No misfires or bull crap, worth the electric work.
I am running them on my 582bhp Saab turbo x. They are amazing! Had no coil pack issues
I think this was a very wise decision, bravo!😊
Having the knowledge and power to do something like this just seems so cool to me.
Don't have to really on someone else or a big corporation to do it for you
It is very nice 👍 and I love how it sounds like
Hey there, I have used those low-temp solder butt-connectors quite a bit. The solder alloy used in these splices is very brittle, and doesnt always "wet" the copper. In a high temp and vibration environment, you will almost certainly run into issues in the future. I would replace all of the splices with crimped butt connectors!
First time I seen someone upgrade the engine before adding a bodykit on Shorts.
May your Nissan run for millennium.
If you’re going to track your car, don’t paint any part under hood. The heat will make the paint come off and it will look ugly.
Also the only thing you need for a track prep is an oil cooler. Use high temp engine oil, brake fluid, diff fluid. Unless you’re changing the internals on the engine. The stock parts will do just fine. No need to upgrade the coil packs. You won’t see any gains.
You’re better off spending your money on tires and changing all the fluids before and after the track day. You don’t need to upgrade your suspension unless you are going to compete. Then as you gain more skill slowly upgrade suspension as you see fit.
As for aftermarket parts. Just get a race bucket seat and cage. I recommend taking out the passenger seat. Don’t gut your interior unless you already have the money for a quality roll cage. You don’t even need an exhaust. Just cut out a small section from the cat to the muffler. Ask a shop to make you a removable section. That way you can bolt it back in when ur not riding the track.
These are just some things I learned along the way from experience. It will save you a ton of time and money. Don’t fall for marketing’s the car will eventually get trashed. So don’t worry about looks or brand names.
that a sick upgrade my dude
I enjoy the wiring making it look perfect is the beat
You hit the nail on the head with this one.
For high heat environments ,try crimp + solder seal butt terminals, or if you want something that looks even better, try non-insulated butt terminals with water proof heat shrink
Gotta say i enjoy your content and youve also got one of my favourite cars when i was young the E36
The Volkswagen Passat and many others use this as an upgrade. They are common in the VW world. I have them on my mk1 TT. I love em
When everything is clean 🧼 like this it’s like Lego building
That sounds incredible. Nicely done.
I will be following you to see how it all turns out go for it man
Those heat shrink sleeves are actually considered a factory repair by Nissan, they're genuinely good stuff and are surprisingly cheap. Nice job.
Wow the spark now will be brigther!!
Would have never guessed audi coilpacks would work on a nissan. lol Nice!
Need longer on the head gun. the solder needs to flow. Also, dont worry about twisting wires.
VQ always sounds like it's ready for action
Solder sticks are a life saver🙏
They're called solder sleeves, and they probably work better than most people attempting to solder wires together by hand.
Sheeeeessshhh. I need to bring my Z to you for some help with upgrades. ✊🏾✊🏾🔥🔥
Amazing, Need for speed Prostreet vibes in real life
Bro got the engine painted it’s more like was a show now a race car lol but it looks hella better with the race stuff n that bad ass spoiler good job guy no hate here proud of you lil bro oh hold just realized that was a photo or rendering but do that please style ur car like that shit is SUPPAA HOT FIRE lol
as a car person thats also into computers and tech I love electrical work
Nice work man 👏
Crimp connections are more reliable, the crimp ones with heat shrink are ideal
Screw making adapters, I would have bought new harness terminals/blocks and re-pin them to the oem harness.
I went to a automotive school and my instructor who's been working on cars for Gears said that those are the best type of connectors besides soldering and heat shrink.
The wiring is the easy part, The hardest part is getting the enthusiasm to start it knowing what sort of job it is 😂
Nissan R35 coilpacks are probably the best on the market so far. You can also buy them new for half as much as those Audi ones cost, and you might even have been able to skip the electrical work
Stagger the cuts on the wires so your solder joints aren’t all in the same spot and you’ll get a thinner bundle after heat shrinking it.
Man dont worry about the haters jusy do you.
Keen to follow the build as i have a 300zx tt and wsnt to leanr more about the vs configurations
hey heads up when you pulled out that coil pack there was oil on it, which is no bueno. VQ's are notorious for valve cover gasket leaks so just check that out, im sure you have since this was 5 months ago, but hey, incase you haven't, might be good to just do some preventative maintenance.
- Technical college + 8 years of experience as mechanic.
dw I only did the coil packs because I was doing the valve covers at the same time 👍
Love this kind of content
Ignition coils will not improve performance. It will correct a misfire under load that usually doesn't show up until warm. At least in the earlier stages of failure.
At least guy is doing performance mods, unlike the guys with the yellow Mercedes.
I’d suggest doing an LS swap before you boost any vq minus the vq38dett Most boost you can throw at a vq before it throws a rod is like 10psi. Which gives you about 350ish wheel.
Unless you’re boosted ignition could upgrades really won’t do much, and you won’t notice it. You’d maybe see a slight change on a dyno.
Make sure you really melt the solder in those connectors. If not it causes a lot of resistance and can cause a lot of heat.
Solder seal connectors are the saviour of our electrical journeys
Car enthusiast!!! Wtf I love electrical
We use those solder slices in aviation for literally everything. Very handy, easy to use, and long lasting in every environment
Do you work for Boeing? 😂
@ar5000 Thank God no. Lol
Bro keep this great content COMING 🙏🏼🔥
Good to see German parts making your ride better brother.
Made in china bro dont get your hopes up 😂
the first upgrade should be tires, then brakes then chassis/suspension.. make sure you can handle the power if you are going to be adding it...
The hard part about electrical is when you have a short or a open and you gotta find out where it’s from
The HR coils have been proven to be the best.
Just so everybody knows, they may be R8 coils but theyre used on virtually every other audi of the same generations, so the 4.2, the 3.2, the 2.0 their all the same coils
Twisting wires into a solder seal is bad news. You're going to have shorts on track days. Heat shrink crimps are the way.
R8 injectors are good for higher compression, and boost. Replaced the oem vw coil packs in my 2014 gti when I had my APR stage 2 kit installed and it did wonders with the new turbo
"Supercar" those are vw coils of an 2.0tfsi engine.. but they're working pretty well...
The r8 coil pack is a legend
Stagger the splices so it doesn't look so goofy when you put the heat shrink on.
I think they won't do a damn thing for your performance unless your original coils were going bad or faulty. They certainly won't add any performance without tuning for say a turbocharger or supercharger where might be able to be more aggressive on the ignition timing. Otherwise maybe they will add a bit got reliability. Something like these would be nice for my car but since it's a flat engine they would be a real PITA to install, basically requiring the engine to be lifted first for access.
Pretty sure those connectors are designed to be crimped before heat shrinking. Double check before you let it ride so you’re not scratching your head in a few months when you’re misfiring.
Edit: my bad, it looks like the metal bit in the center is actually supposed to melt and solder the wires together. As long as that melted and soldered the wires together, I guess you’re good to go. Those are pretty neat. I’ve never seen them before
Except that their melting point is too low to be used in a motor
That intake manifold is hideous lol! Also apparently not an enthusiast, 😂 I like wiring!
You should have soldered the wires properly with a soldering iron and just used regular shrink wrap.
My boy back in the day had misfires in like 3/5 cylinders in his 2.5 5 cylinder passat. Got a set of new oem coils and within 3 months it was misfiring again. Got a set of r8 coils, never replaced them again.
Lol. I got the same soldering seal wiring splices.
They do work...... but their is higher quality ones you can get.
So honestly if you’re going for a track car you should be crimping. Motorsport wiring is done with open barrel crimps and quality adhesive lined heatshrink. Most harness builders would recommend raychem for the heatshrink but you can get by without. Ideally you should really only be using solder sleeves when splicing in a single wire to an another parallel wire in orientation for grounding a shielded wire. When dealing with track temperatures condition and potential bending of where the solder sleeve or soldered joint are, the solder can cause the joint to become stiff since solder wicks down into the wire. If you bend it it can break. Then if the solder didn’t penetrate right you could have a short. I wouldn’t want something like a coil pack failing from a short.
Youll probably be fine if it passes the tug test it ships but ideally you want the solder band to melt and coat the wires and as the insulation shrinks itll push out some goo to seal the ends
You now have 16 soldered points on ignition alone. This will be electrical issues. Solder cracks under vibration. Use a sealed connector. Its not if. Its when.
Those "super car coils" also come stock on alot of entry level Volkswagens.