Thanks for taking the time to make this video! I always watch videos before I tackle a project (takes the guess work out of it). Looks like the rear axle nut should be torqued to 177 ft/lbs, this is very important to bearing life and safety reasons. *Returning tools in better shape than when you borrowed is a great motto to live by.
nice!!! i am going to be doing this on my 08. Glad to see your also doing your entire hub. The hub(i found) was only 6-7 bucks more than the bearing alone.
Great video, but why did you skip to show how you took the hub assembly out? How did you get it out? Did you knock it out or did you use a slide hammer?
I don't remember having much of a problem removing it after I removed the four bolts. The axle just slide right off, maybe I tapped it. Probably skipped for this reason. I did seem to cover it the opposite way during installation. Thanks!
I just replaced mine this morning. I thought it was a pain getting off, but eventually it came loose after pulling and knocking on it. A slide hammer would have helped.
Hi there I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder I'm also having some whirling sounds I do a lot of saltwater fishing so I could imagine that it's my wheel bearing as well quick question how was you able to remove the back hubs I mean push him out
Thanks for the video. My 2006 Xterra is probably exactly like this, and something I can do myself. I was thinking it would look very different than this. I get that "tire tread" sound from the rear when cornering. I've been looking around for that bearing/hub kit though and can't find one in stock anywhere for an Xterra, just the bearing assembly that has to be pressed out/in the old hub... and that can be tricky. Why not just sell the whole hub??
If the whirring sound gets louder the faster you travel and you feel a vibration then most likely it is the wheel bearing, I'm about to change the wheel bearing on the 2006 pathfinder and also the the brake pads as they need replacing. I'm not a mechanic but I will have a go at doing it myself. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the quality video. Did you have any issues pulling the hub off after removing the four bolts? I'm on my way to Autozone to get the "32" mm socket and am wondering if I should get a puller at the same time. I did one of the front hubs a year or so ago and did get it off without the puller but may have cussed a few times in the process. :) Thanks Again!
Next time you do a front bearing try using a pry bar, crow bar or similar that fits between the bearing hub and strong part of frame. Start the car and crank the wheel slowly and it usually pushes right out. Another set of hands helps get the bar set.........and be careful, it can shoot out pretty fast if it slips!And sometimes you have to alternate between the front and rear so the hub pushes out square.Good vid!
Thanks for the video. My rear Pathfinder bearing is bad.. is this a pressed bearing?? I didn't hear anything about it in your video, so I'm hoping we can do this job ourselves instead of taking it to a shop.
Its all one piece, one big axel nut and four other ones holding it in place. I'm sure bearing is pressed into housing, but in this video I replaced whole housing with bearing in place already.
MrSavintheDay thank you! One more... are there any special tools besides the 32 mm socket you showed? By the way... a scraping sound started in the wheel and we were going to change the brake pads... when we jacked the rear of the SUV up, we shook the wheel back and forth (towards the car and away) and it isn't tight on the car... it can shake back and forth as if the lug nuts are not all the way tightened... is this a good indication that it is the bearing?
Once the axle nut is removed, I think that will allow the axle to move back a little- maybe. I have had it where sockets are different thickness and wrenches to big, but I did use just a socket on a wrench, may have used an extension. I do remember it being a tight area back there and having to work at positioning the wrench. Good luck!
Knock the axle back with a plastic hammer to get more access. If you have the possibility you should get someone with a lathe to shorten a 17mm socket. Or use a grinder. 3/8" drive is smaller, and better for this task.
How hard was it to get the 4 bolts off that held the hub on? I notice that the 4 bolts are very close to the axle boot and, with the tools I have, I can't get the socket to fit over the bolt head correctly.
Gently tap on the axle from the outer end going inward...cover with a rag on something and tap on it...Then in the back you get enough clearance to fit your socket...This is what i did
Probably China- If I was super concerned about longevity or durability (pulling a traveler, off roading) I would probably buy the more expensive USA part. I think I paid about a third of the price of a USA Timken bearing. I'm fine with it, if I have problems before I sell it I will replace it again.
Thank you sir, I have the same year Pathfinder and am going to be doing the exact same things as you. New rear brakes and rotors, new wheel bearings and shocks. I truly appreciate your videos, normally I'd be taking it to the garage. I found Rock Auto.com is cheapest for Moog Wheel bearings. Do you have a video of changing out the front shocks? Did you replace the spring in the front or the back or did new shocks help?
You don't happen to have a tutorial on replacing real ball joints do you? Come to find out after replacing the tires, it's not the wheel bearings, it's the ball joints. I think your Pathfinder needs rear ball joints as well 😂😎😁😁
MrSavintheDay thank you again, hopefully it won't be too difficult and I can do a tutorial on it since you've given me the confidence to try. Also, I found a 32mm socket at Harbor freight for 3.99. I broke my lug nut wrench that came with the vehicle so I purchased a set of multiple size sockets and a breaker bar to keep in my vehicle.
Believe 2005-2012 all the same (double check). The bearing is set into this assembly. I imagine if you were a mechanic you may be able to push bearing out of assemble and replace. I bought whole assembly with bearing in it. Man- I just found out that the squeak I currently have is a lower ball joint- i'm pretty sure the ball joint is built into the control arm. - doing research, might be next video.
MrSavintheDay thanks appreciate it and I think there are some models that the control arms are all one piece with the ball join and is it on a pathfinder ?
u should of used candle wax, heat up the nut & apply wax 2 the threads.it will such it in 2 the treads & it works A LOT BETTER THEN PENETRATING FLUID!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video, thanks, the difficult part is removing the 4 nuts from the back of the hub. So thank you to the people who also answered that question.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! I always watch videos before I tackle a project (takes the guess work out of it). Looks like the rear axle nut should be torqued to 177 ft/lbs, this is very important to bearing life and safety reasons.
*Returning tools in better shape than when you borrowed is a great motto to live by.
Great tutorial thanks a lot. I was wondering how you got the hub bolt out from the back ?? I had no room to attache a socket there :(
nice!!! i am going to be doing this on my 08. Glad to see your also doing your entire hub. The hub(i found) was only 6-7 bucks more than the bearing alone.
Great video, but why did you skip to show how you took the hub assembly out? How did you get it out? Did you knock it out or did you use a slide hammer?
I don't remember having much of a problem removing it after I removed the four bolts. The axle just slide right off, maybe I tapped it. Probably skipped for this reason. I did seem to cover it the opposite way during installation. Thanks!
I just replaced mine this morning. I thought it was a pain getting off, but eventually it came loose after pulling and knocking on it. A slide hammer would have helped.
Hello, good job. Pls do you know why the rear axle of QX4 2001 still makes noise even when the pinion bearings are replaced? Thanks.
Hi there I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder I'm also having some whirling sounds I do a lot of saltwater fishing so I could imagine that it's my wheel bearing as well quick question how was you able to remove the back hubs I mean push him out
How do u get to the rear bolts of the bearing
Thanks for the video. My 2006 Xterra is probably exactly like this, and something I can do myself. I was thinking it would look very different than this. I get that "tire tread" sound from the rear when cornering. I've been looking around for that bearing/hub kit though and can't find one in stock anywhere for an Xterra, just the bearing assembly that has to be pressed out/in the old hub... and that can be tricky. Why not just sell the whole hub??
If the whirring sound gets louder the faster you travel and you feel a vibration then most likely it is the wheel bearing, I'm about to change the wheel bearing on the 2006 pathfinder and also the the brake pads as they need replacing. I'm not a mechanic but I will have a go at doing it myself. Thanks for the video.
How did you get the bearing off the spindle? You did not show it and tell us. Great video. I have to do this soon on my 2008 Pathfinder.
7:22 I talk about removing and 9 something I talk about putting the new one on. Axel nut off, 4 screws off back, take it off.
It just slides off...maybe thats your question.
Do you know if a 2005 Nissan. Frontier 2wd v6 automatic is the same? Thanks
That's why I'm here.. They very similar in not the same set up you will get a good idea on how to do the job..
Thanks for the quality video. Did you have any issues pulling the hub off after removing the four bolts? I'm on my way to Autozone to get the "32" mm socket and am wondering if I should get a puller at the same time. I did one of the front hubs a year or so ago and did get it off without the puller but may have cussed a few times in the process. :)
Thanks Again!
nope, I was able to tap the hub to the right and left by hitting the area the BT's went through and it loosened pretty easily.
+MrSavintheDay bolts went through...
Excellent. Thx again
Next time you do a front bearing try using a pry bar, crow bar or similar that fits between the bearing hub and strong part of frame. Start the car and crank the wheel slowly and it usually pushes right out. Another set of hands helps get the bar set.........and be careful, it can shoot out pretty fast if it slips!And sometimes you have to alternate between the front and rear so the hub pushes out square.Good vid!
Thanks for the video. My rear Pathfinder bearing is bad.. is this a pressed bearing?? I didn't hear anything about it in your video, so I'm hoping we can do this job ourselves instead of taking it to a shop.
Its all one piece, one big axel nut and four other ones holding it in place. I'm sure bearing is pressed into housing, but in this video I replaced whole housing with bearing in place already.
MrSavintheDay thank you! One more... are there any special tools besides the 32 mm socket you showed? By the way... a scraping sound started in the wheel and we were going to change the brake pads... when we jacked the rear of the SUV up, we shook the wheel back and forth (towards the car and away) and it isn't tight on the car... it can shake back and forth as if the lug nuts are not all the way tightened... is this a good indication that it is the bearing?
I'm having a problem getting to the 4 bolts in the back. How where you able to get to them? Something about pushing the axle back?
Once the axle nut is removed, I think that will allow the axle to move back a little- maybe. I have had it where sockets are different thickness and wrenches to big, but I did use just a socket on a wrench, may have used an extension. I do remember it being a tight area back there and having to work at positioning the wrench. Good luck!
Knock the axle back with a plastic hammer to get more access. If you have the possibility you should get someone with a lathe to shorten a 17mm socket. Or use a grinder. 3/8" drive is smaller, and better for this task.
How hard was it to get the 4 bolts off that held the hub on? I notice that the 4 bolts are very close to the axle boot and, with the tools I have, I can't get the socket to fit over the bolt head correctly.
+Nick Macker used a short extension on socket and pushed the axle back just a touch for clearance.
for future reference you should use a wobble head extension and 6 point socket
What do you mean you pushed the axel back? As in you pushed it towards the differential?
Gently tap on the axle from the outer end going inward...cover with a rag on something and tap on it...Then in the back you get enough clearance to fit your socket...This is what i did
Thanks for video going to try mind this week but very cold outside lol
thanks for the detailed video might have to change one myself soon
I have a Suzuki Equator. Made by Nissan. Also trying to do the REAR wheel bearings and this was the ONLY video I could find that was close. I think 😂😂
Hey. How does the hub do? Is it better to choose 1Auto or AM Autoparts?
The ones I got have worked fine so far (date of video till 4-25-17)
Thanks. I think which hub to choose. 1a is produced in USA or China? I'am from Poland. Someitems hubs made in China, and its not good choose...
Probably China- If I was super concerned about longevity or durability (pulling a traveler, off roading) I would probably buy the more expensive USA part. I think I paid about a third of the price of a USA Timken bearing. I'm fine with it, if I have problems before I sell it I will replace it again.
Thanks a lot (for Your video and adswers!).
Typos errors
Thank you sir, I have the same year Pathfinder and am going to be doing the exact same things as you. New rear brakes and rotors, new wheel bearings and shocks. I truly appreciate your videos, normally I'd be taking it to the garage. I found Rock Auto.com is cheapest for Moog Wheel bearings. Do you have a video of changing out the front shocks? Did you replace the spring in the front or the back or did new shocks help?
I have videos on replacing front struts for other vehicles, probably close to any other ones. New shocks in back helped on the Pathfinder though.
You don't happen to have a tutorial on replacing real ball joints do you? Come to find out after replacing the tires, it's not the wheel bearings, it's the ball joints. I think your Pathfinder needs rear ball joints as well 😂😎😁😁
I have not done any ball joints yet- believe it or not- sway bar links yes. Some ball joints are easier then other, check youtube- GoodLuck!
MrSavintheDay thank you again, hopefully it won't be too difficult and I can do a tutorial on it since you've given me the confidence to try. Also, I found a 32mm socket at Harbor freight for 3.99. I broke my lug nut wrench that came with the vehicle so I purchased a set of multiple size sockets and a breaker bar to keep in my vehicle.
Thanks. I have to do my Rogue and cannot find a video on it. Looks like this might do the trick.
Can you tell me the exact part number you used? I'm going to order from 1A auto :)
I believe in the beginning of the video I pick it out of a box with the # 1ASHR00236- try that, Good Luck
Will this go for a 2006 pathfinder as well ?
Also so the bearing is not compressed ?
Believe 2005-2012 all the same (double check). The bearing is set into this assembly. I imagine if you were a mechanic you may be able to push bearing out of assemble and replace. I bought whole assembly with bearing in it. Man- I just found out that the squeak I currently have is a lower ball joint- i'm pretty sure the ball joint is built into the control arm. - doing research, might be next video.
MrSavintheDay thanks appreciate it and I think there are some models that the control arms are all one piece with the ball join and is it on a pathfinder ?
wow now he really pulled the calliper off without uncapping the master cylinder or putting a C-clamp on the piston-amature hour.
It was!! Thank you!!!
u should of used candle wax, heat up the nut & apply wax 2 the threads.it will such it in 2 the treads & it works A LOT BETTER THEN PENETRATING FLUID!!!!!!!!!!!
A1 Auto has the TRQ brand $125 for the set. Ill be replacing mine VERY soon.
I like a good crunchy lug
this front axel not rear !!!!!!!!
I didn't see him use a jackstand!!! did he really say a safety jack? NO JACK IS SAFE!! THEY ALL FAIL & U BETTER HOPE UR NOT UNDER IT WHEN IT FALLS!!!!
This video sucks you skipped past everything