Update. Your vid gave me the courage to do this! So, thanks again. 🙏 First thing I needed was to borrow neighbors impact and socket(s). But after taking the wheel and brake components off I was confused because I didn't see the large axel bolt! But I kept on going thinking the axel bolt was behind the assembly, but kept going with removing rotor and bearing assembly [which came off surprisingly easy with no special tool, just thin screwdriver to separate]. After that I realized there wasn't any large bolt. All in all it took me about 2 hours. I kept stopping to look at your video to make sure i was doing it correctly lol. Turns out I didn't even need impact/socket So my question is was this for the rear wheel? I have 2010 Pathfinder SE 2wd. Wish I could donate to you.idk how much a job at the shop would cost but you saved us $$ now we have a few extra $ for xmas ❤
Awesome man! Glad to hear. Love hearing that. This is a 4wd, 2we doesn’t have axle nut. 4wd has front axles, hence the axle nut on the front. Thanks again for the comment!
I just did this on a 2006 xterra. Next is a 2007 pathfinder. If you soak all the bolts on pb blaster you dont need a slide hammer or heat. it all comes right out. The gray sensor connector is a royal pain. Used a small flat head screwdriver to work it out. Solid video thanks for posting.
Appreciate the comment. You can definitely use PB Blaster for assistance with bolts if needed. Personally, I’m a fan of heat. But as far as PB assistance in not using a slide hammer, that is extremely subjective. That is dependent on where you live, the condition & age of a bearing, there’s definitely going to be times PB won’t do a thing when trying to get a hub out. I personally live in the northeast, and I’ve encountered some bearings I could have soaked for a month straight & it would have been completely irrelevant due to how rust welded they can be.
Man, those rust welded on parts are a beast. I ended up using a sledge from behind on my old wheel hub. And that speed sensor enclosure is the WORST! Makes a two hour job into a three hour job. Thanks
Appreciate it! Good luck with the job. But every tool used was both mentioned verbally in the video, as well as outlined in text bubbles when mentioned. There was nothing used that wasn’t mentioned in the video!
Thanks for the video, why was the reason of replacing the bearing , I have a 2011 pathfinder, my sister ran over a pot hole and started to wobble, it’s funny now that when I start the vehicle it runs fine until it reaches 15 mph and starts to wobble and the abs light turns on not sure when she ran over the pot hole destroyed the hub, and when I shut the pathfinder all warning light go away until it reaches 15 mph and repeats it self. I haven’t removed the wheel to inspect the issue yet and I was just curious from watching your video.
@0:57, wheel bearing had play as I reviewed in the beginning of the video. I would check it as I outlined in the video, and also take the wheel off and visually inspect it all.
Hello brother. I have a problem with an Altima 2016 SR 2.5 in which when accelerating little and maintaining a constant speed of 35 45 mph the steering wheel shakes a lot and the car the rpm drops to 1200 1300 rpm when accelerating the rpm rises again to 2000 and the shaking but when you stop accelerating it shakes again. I have also noticed that I can drive the car at 30 or 40 mph at 1200 rpm and when I press the shift lever the rpm goes up and it stops shaking in Ds mode. I already changed the air filter, acceleration body, injectors, front arrows, transmission fluid, spark plugs, I await your prompt response with your opinion
Sorry to hear man. Hard to troubleshoot over the internet, but it does kind of sound transmission related. You should have it diagnosed by someone with a capable OBDII scanner that can pull all/transmission codes. It should be checked for everything, but if it has a P17F0 or P17F1 transmission DTC it could potentially be a “CVT judder”: static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10180992-0001.pdf You can even buy a decent scanner on Amazon that can read all modules and read live data, so it would be capable of reading transmission codes. Would be helpful to narrow down. Let me know what you figure out!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Brother, I bought a Topdon obd2 scanner and when I did a complete scan it did not detect any transmission failures. It is strange that it only happens when keeping the accelerator fixed, the rpm drops to 1200 but when accelerating the rpm rises and it stops vibrating when I stop at a traffic light it does not vibrate... I will investigate a little more and I will inform you. I would like to collaborate with your channel since all your videos have been helpful to me but I can't find the thank you button
@@TheOriginalBeeCee It is worth mentioning that if I put the DS mode on it does not vibrate at all and the rpm always remains between 1600 to 2000 rpm. Where can I collaborate with your sister channel?
Well not all TopDon scanners are capable of reading Transmission codes, so make sure when you say you scanned it, its not just pulling ECU DTC’s, but also capable of reading transmission modules, ABS & SRS. A regular OBD Scan like Autozone does for example, will just pull engine codes, like a P0300, etc. it won’t reflect transmission codes. So just make sure its not just reading and searching for engine codes. I could put a cheap scanner on a car with transmission fault codes and all it will do is read regular engine DTC codes, and come back clear. So just ensure the scanner you’re using is actually capable of pulling transmission codes. Most scanners capable of reading all modules will also be able to do SRS & ABS in addition, so that would help indicate if the scanner is actually indeed capable of pulling transmission codes in addition to just a regular OBD Scan. Also, it should probably have a option where you can just read the transmission module itself. So if you don’t see a transmission option or no where listed that it pulls transmission codes, I doubt it pulls transmission codes when you do a “complete scan”. ..Outside of that man I have no clue lol.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Roger. I’m throwing a code…some say it may be a bad bearing throwing metal onto sensor, but I guess I can check by trying to pull-push tire like you demonstrate in your great video. 👍
HI i have 2010 LE 4WD PFINDER, your videos have been life and money savers. i'm doing the wheel hub assembly on the front passenger side. Whats the max torque per ft on your drill and what can i get away with if i purchase or rent one?
The impact i have is a Dewalt DCF894. 330ft max torque. When I use it to tighten though I have it on the low setting, which really just locks it in once it’s tight. For example, when i lock in the axle nut with the impact it’s only delivering about 100ft pounds on the low setting.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee so everything that i thought would be difficult was relatively easy for me. the 4 19in bolts holding the assembly came off with a slight tug from a 24in breaker bar. the abs sensor wasn't to difficult i used electrical component cleaner and a key board compressed air can and channel lock type wrench. now i'm stuck on the axle nut. i think i need a stronger impact wrench at least stronger than 332 ft lbs. could be using it wrong since 1st time using a cordless one, tried breaker bar but then wheel hub spun a bit.
Man, thats crazy…i find it hard to believe it won’t break it free. I’ve cracked probably 100+ axle nuts with my dewalt and it never failed me. Truck, car, doesn’t matter. If it really won’t break free….take a propane torch & heat it up for 2 minutes, then go at it. Heat is a great way to break stubborn nuts/bolts free.
You can get away without them. I’ve seen other vehicles that utilize them be missing without issues. But personally I do like re-installing them to keep everything how it was intended.
Great video and clear instructions. Just curious why you used a slide hammer instead of a wheel puller? Looking forward to the next video. Great job. 😄
Great job my only add is you need a little summation of blow-ups and tork values I watched the video again and took notes. Oh an air hammer makes your hammer thingy a horrible waste of energy
I have some lol. Got some knock ‘er loose, i got all of it lol. Sometimes with hubs here in the NE no amount of penetrating oil will help lol. I would say this one in particular was probably one of them. Always just easier to go after it with tools for me. But I’m always of fan of whatever works! Some jobs just come down to preference with tools/approach.
I personally don’t like doing it that way. Just a preference thing. But if that’s how you wanna do it, then of course do whatever you prefer & feel comfortable with!
This is the perfect video I needed for my job. I see you have more videos for nissan pathfinders. Im subbing. You're such blessing man!
Thank you, I appreciate the comment!
Update. Your vid gave me the courage to do this! So, thanks again. 🙏
First thing I needed was to borrow neighbors impact and socket(s).
But after taking the wheel and brake components off I was confused because I didn't see the large axel bolt! But I kept on going thinking the axel bolt was behind the assembly, but kept going with removing rotor and bearing assembly [which came off surprisingly easy with no special tool, just thin screwdriver to separate]. After that I realized there wasn't any large bolt.
All in all it took me about 2 hours. I kept stopping to look at your video to make sure i was doing it correctly lol.
Turns out I didn't even need impact/socket
So my question is was this for the rear wheel?
I have 2010 Pathfinder SE 2wd.
Wish I could donate to you.idk how much a job at the shop would cost but you saved us $$ now we have a few extra $ for xmas ❤
Awesome man! Glad to hear. Love hearing that. This is a 4wd, 2we doesn’t have axle nut. 4wd has front axles, hence the axle nut on the front.
Thanks again for the comment!
I just did this on a 2006 xterra. Next is a 2007 pathfinder. If you soak all the bolts on pb blaster you dont need a slide hammer or heat. it all comes right out. The gray sensor connector is a royal pain. Used a small flat head screwdriver to work it out. Solid video thanks for posting.
Appreciate the comment. You can definitely use PB Blaster for assistance with bolts if needed. Personally, I’m a fan of heat. But as far as PB assistance in not using a slide hammer, that is extremely subjective. That is dependent on where you live, the condition & age of a bearing, there’s definitely going to be times PB won’t do a thing when trying to get a hub out. I personally live in the northeast, and I’ve encountered some bearings I could have soaked for a month straight & it would have been completely irrelevant due to how rust welded they can be.
I'm tackling this next week & this video was great. Informative & to the point, cheers mate!
Awesome! Good luck with the job 👍
I have done a similar video but know that I like all the details you added like use of slide hammer and lil tips; this makes it very valuable. A+
Appreciate the comment thank you!
This video may have just saved me almost $1000. I'll be trying this soon.
@@marcus_b1 appreciate the comment! Good luck with project 🤙
Man, those rust welded on parts are a beast. I ended up using a sledge from behind on my old wheel hub. And that speed sensor enclosure is the WORST! Makes a two hour job into a three hour job. Thanks
Yeaaa man i hear ya. the speed sensor harness on these things definitely is a complete PITA
I DIY jobs both big and small. This is a great video, didn't waste my time, gave me the important info and clear view of things. Thanks!
Thank you! Appreciate the comment!
I have a 2006 pathfinder and your videos are superb. Thanks man for the effort, subscribed 🙌
Thanks for the comment! I appreciate it!!
Hey! Great video, do you have the part number for the rear hubs??
Appreciate it. Part # is @19:10
Great video! About to tackle this tomorrow and get it done. Do you have a list of tools used? I’ll need to get a couple things.
Appreciate it! Good luck with the job. But every tool used was both mentioned verbally in the video, as well as outlined in text bubbles when mentioned. There was nothing used that wasn’t mentioned in the video!
Thanks for the video, why was the reason of replacing the bearing , I have a 2011 pathfinder, my sister ran over a pot hole and started to wobble, it’s funny now that when I start the vehicle it runs fine until it reaches 15 mph and starts to wobble and the abs light turns on not sure when she ran over the pot hole destroyed the hub, and when I shut the pathfinder all warning light go away until it reaches 15 mph and repeats it self. I haven’t removed the wheel to inspect the issue yet and I was just curious from watching your video.
@0:57, wheel bearing had play as I reviewed in the beginning of the video. I would check it as I outlined in the video, and also take the wheel off and visually inspect it all.
Excellent video👍
Thank you i appreciate the comment!
Hello brother. I have a problem with an Altima 2016 SR 2.5 in which when accelerating little and maintaining a constant speed of 35 45 mph the steering wheel shakes a lot and the car the rpm drops to 1200 1300 rpm when accelerating the rpm rises again to 2000 and the shaking but when you stop accelerating it shakes again. I have also noticed that I can drive the car at 30 or 40 mph at 1200 rpm and when I press the shift lever the rpm goes up and it stops shaking in Ds mode. I already changed the air filter, acceleration body, injectors, front arrows, transmission fluid, spark plugs, I await your prompt response with your opinion
Sorry to hear man. Hard to troubleshoot over the internet, but it does kind of sound transmission related. You should have it diagnosed by someone with a capable OBDII scanner that can pull all/transmission codes. It should be checked for everything, but if it has a P17F0 or P17F1 transmission DTC it could potentially be a “CVT judder”:
static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10180992-0001.pdf
You can even buy a decent scanner on Amazon that can read all modules and read live data, so it would be capable of reading transmission codes. Would be helpful to narrow down. Let me know what you figure out!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Brother, I bought a Topdon obd2 scanner and when I did a complete scan it did not detect any transmission failures. It is strange that it only happens when keeping the accelerator fixed, the rpm drops to 1200 but when accelerating the rpm rises and it stops vibrating when I stop at a traffic light it does not vibrate... I will investigate a little more and I will inform you. I would like to collaborate with your channel since all your videos have been helpful to me but I can't find the thank you button
@@TheOriginalBeeCee It is worth mentioning that if I put the DS mode on it does not vibrate at all and the rpm always remains between 1600 to 2000 rpm. Where can I collaborate with your sister channel?
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I have also noticed that when the mpg gauge increases on the dashboard it stops vibrating. Maybe the car is possessed jajajaja
Well not all TopDon scanners are capable of reading Transmission codes, so make sure when you say you scanned it, its not just pulling ECU DTC’s, but also capable of reading transmission modules, ABS & SRS. A regular OBD Scan like Autozone does for example, will just pull engine codes, like a P0300, etc. it won’t reflect transmission codes. So just make sure its not just reading and searching for engine codes. I could put a cheap scanner on a car with transmission fault codes and all it will do is read regular engine DTC codes, and come back clear. So just ensure the scanner you’re using is actually capable of pulling transmission codes. Most scanners capable of reading all modules will also be able to do SRS & ABS in addition, so that would help indicate if the scanner is actually indeed capable of pulling transmission codes in addition to just a regular OBD Scan. Also, it should probably have a option where you can just read the transmission module itself. So if you don’t see a transmission option or no where listed that it pulls transmission codes, I doubt it pulls transmission codes when you do a “complete scan”.
..Outside of that man I have no clue lol.
Did that bad bearing set off your ABS actuator code (C1140)??
No, there was no code associated with the bearing prior to the replacement.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Roger. I’m throwing a code…some say it may be a bad bearing throwing metal onto sensor, but I guess I can check by trying to pull-push tire like you demonstrate in your great video. 👍
Yea man. Could definitely just be the sensor. But i would definitely inspect the bearing and check it for play/damage, etc 👍
HI i have 2010 LE 4WD PFINDER, your videos have been life and money savers. i'm doing the wheel hub assembly on the front passenger side. Whats the max torque per ft on your drill and what can i get away with if i purchase or rent one?
The impact i have is a Dewalt DCF894. 330ft max torque. When I use it to tighten though I have it on the low setting, which really just locks it in once it’s tight. For example, when i lock in the axle nut with the impact it’s only delivering about 100ft pounds on the low setting.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thank you greatly
also would penetrating lubricant help with getting assembly off along w/ slide hammer?
It couldn’t hurt. Depending it might not do much, but if anything it could only potentially help.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee so everything that i thought would be difficult was relatively easy for me. the 4 19in bolts holding the assembly came off with a slight tug from a 24in breaker bar. the abs sensor wasn't to difficult i used electrical component cleaner and a key board compressed air can and channel lock type wrench. now i'm stuck on the axle nut. i think i need a stronger impact wrench at least stronger than 332 ft lbs. could be using it wrong since 1st time using a cordless one, tried breaker bar but then wheel hub spun a bit.
Man, thats crazy…i find it hard to believe it won’t break it free. I’ve cracked probably 100+ axle nuts with my dewalt and it never failed me. Truck, car, doesn’t matter. If it really won’t break free….take a propane torch & heat it up for 2 minutes, then go at it. Heat is a great way to break stubborn nuts/bolts free.
I have an 06 Pathfinder are those clips necessary because I took mine off
You can get away without them. I’ve seen other vehicles that utilize them be missing without issues. But personally I do like re-installing them to keep everything how it was intended.
Great video, very helpful thanks!
Appreciate it! Thanks for the comment
Great video and clear instructions. Just curious why you used a slide hammer instead of a wheel puller? Looking forward to the next video. Great job. 😄
Appreciate it! 🙏 And just preference I guess, no special reason lol.
Thx for the great vid 💪🏼
Appreciate it!! 🙏🙏
Great job my only add is you need a little summation of blow-ups and tork values I watched the video again and took notes. Oh an air hammer makes your hammer thingy a horrible waste of energy
Try Free All next time. No slide hammer, or impact needed. Given it is still faster but trust me, it’s worth its weight in gold.
I have some lol. Got some knock ‘er loose, i got all of it lol. Sometimes with hubs here in the NE no amount of penetrating oil will help lol. I would say this one in particular was probably one of them. Always just easier to go after it with tools for me. But I’m always of fan of whatever works! Some jobs just come down to preference with tools/approach.
Take the whole caliper next time saves time
I personally don’t like doing it that way. Just a preference thing. But if that’s how you wanna do it, then of course do whatever you prefer & feel comfortable with!
Thank you very much
🙏🙏🙏
thanks
🙏🙏
remove axle nut before removing brakes. just hold brake.
Definitely a good recommendation if you don’t have an impact. If you are utilizing an impact, doesn’t matter either way.