THANK YOU @Hobo Lyf !!! Ordered the part from Toyota and put it in our 2008 RX400h with 300K miles on her. The brakes feel much better than even a 100k miles ago. Thank you for the fantastic step by step video from you and your dad. Great camera work too. 👍👍👍👍👍 five thumbs up.
You are very welcome and glad that it worked out for you. My 2006 Lexus has 250k miles, and my goal is to reach 300k, and I drove it to Mexico from Washington DC, and I'll be driving back next week.
WoW, this is the BEST instructional I've watched, and I've watched quite a few. Thank you so much. You are very detailed and your camera person was on POINT. Showing almost everything from a great angle.
I had the same problem Highlander (same type of brake actuator) trying to get the brake actuator bleed screw to bleed. Never did get any brake fluid to come out like you did. I think it was more important to remove air. I did a manual bleed of brakes but only pumped brakes a few times before bleeding each wheel.. Never had any problems afterwards. Brakes work great. Didn't need to do the electronic bleed or bring in to get a professional full brake bleed. Shops want $800 labor cost to install when most can do this on their own.
Hi, Thank you for posting the video. I believe someone can help me with my ABS lights and Traction Control lights on problem. I have a Check VSC System message in my dash as well. No check engine lights. My vehicle is a 2008 Lexus RX400H (Hybrid - 290k kms on it). I initially scanned it at a local mechanic garage and they did let me know it's a brake actuator pump issue (I believe it's ABS pump) and they did confirm they can't fix it since it's connected with the hybrid battery system. They fix only gas vehicles. The code is C1391. Later, I did drive my vehicle to my used car dealership (not Lexus) where I bought it and they found the issue confirming the left rear abs sensor was not functioning and got it replaced and the light disappeared/ went off. I did drive my vehicle for about 70kms and the ABS and the traction control lights came back. After driving it for a week with the lights on, I took it to my used car dealership to fix it. This time a different code showed up U0121 - Lost Communication with ABS Control Module. This time they confirmed the issue is with the ABS CONTROL MODULE/ Pump and to be replaced. It's an expensive repair. If it's with the ABS pump, I should have braking issues. But, I don't have any braking issues. Can someone help me with isolating the issue? Is it safe to drive the vehicle?
Thanks for the video. I like your ingenuity dealing with the bleeding valve. However I do want to be able to read the codes. I was wondering if you have a suggestion on aftermarket solution to Techstream scanner. eBay has chinese obd scanners but I have no idea if any of them might be good.
Thank you for watching. Autel has a scanner, but it is like $600. Buying that over the already expensive repair wasn't an option for me. You can get the tecstream software, but it has to be a Windows xp. It's a never-ending battle.
Great video. I see you bled the brakes from the top of the accumulator. I thought each btake cylinder had to be bled. What is the advantage of bleeding from the top of the accumulator? And when you do it this way how do you know each cylinder is properly bled.
Excellent video! Also I have a question as well, our 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid makes these strange duck/chicken sounds when working the brake pedal and using the brakes. It's stuttery and irregular in frequency, its not a squeak, squeal or grinding sound. It sounds most similar to like a chicken or duck or maybe a dolphin? The sound is coming from under the hood. Its truly bizzare. It happens most often when we are on an incline. The brakes always engage and work though. The actuator pump goes on when the vehicle is turned on and off and periodically while driving after braking. But so far no mechanic here has any idea what the chicken/duck sounds are though. Ive seen a few videos of Toyota Prius's making these sounds. Some people have said replacing the master cylinder has stopped the duck/chicken sounds. We have no warning lights on the dashboard. No errors show on any scans. We are really stumped and confused but we know something is off about the braking system and the sounds are very abnormal and quite loud. If you have any advice or ideas please let me know, like i said before even local mechanics have no idea whats wrong and Toyota doesn't have any availability for repairs for months. So we are kinda stuck until we know what to do about the car.
I would flush the fluid and see. I have never heard a similar noise from the brakes. I had a chicken kinda noise coming when I was braking and accelerating, and it was from my exhaust flange gasket, making the noise everytime the engine moved. If I have a sound clip, I could help.
@@hobolyf There is another video on TH-cam that demonstrates the exact sound I'm experiencing but from Toyotas Prius. The link is here th-cam.com/video/cmqMRuvPtHU/w-d-xo.html In the video it says it's the actuator pump. However I know a few people who have fixed the strange sound by replacing the master cylinder and nothing was wrong with the actuator pump. And so far I haven't been able to get a straight answer from anyone or a mechanic about what is actually causing it! It's got me stumped haha also thank you for the reply! Also in terms of exhaust, it wouldn't be that as the sounds still happen when the vehicle is EV and the ICE is off.
Hi, I have a 2007 Highlander Limited Hybrid with AWD. The part on mine says 44510-48060 Why is my part number different than yours? Can I use the part number you provided or should I use the one off my unit?
At 21:52 you say, "Before you connect the battery, I’m just going to manually pump everything." This comment is followed by a full minute of manual pumping sounds, but the actual pumping is not shown. What is being pumped, the brake pedal? Great video otherwise. Thank you!
The physical pumping doesn't actually move any fluid, it just sends an electronic signal to the actuator to pressurize the system...Toyota hybrids are brake by wire....
@jamesbroomfield7799 I didn't this time, Removing the relay is the proper way. I just did another one I did the bleed procedure with an autel scanner, and I did remove the relays.
At around the 25 minute mark you are tightening and loosening that valve, what is the purpose for that and what are you looking for? I need to do this same procedure in my care
This whole job I did without any official procedure. when I saw that Valve, I assumed it's a bleeder valve based on the location. I used that to bleed the air from the unit. Which worked very well. I bled the air just like how you bleed brake caliper. Let me know if you have any more questions. I'm happy to help you.
@@hobolyf thank you for the insight. I’m in Michigan so I’ll probably wait until the weather is a little nicer. I appreciate your response if I have any questions I’ll be sure to reach out.
@jonathan koziel start talking to dealers. Toyota dealers will sell you the part at a discounted rate if you just talk nice and ask. I think I got mine for $1300.
I had mine assessed at the dealership for replacing the actuator and over the phone the man said it needed to be programed. But after very politely asking which step of the repair needed to be programed, he went to the back, asked the technician, and then told me that it wasn't programming it needed, but that their TechStream software helped bleed the braking system.... and then I took my highlander home and did it myself.
I thought its a bush mechanic, but he is actually good. Knows what's he doing. Nice job man.
Thanks man!
THANK YOU @Hobo Lyf !!! Ordered the part from Toyota and put it in our 2008 RX400h with 300K miles on her. The brakes feel much better than even a 100k miles ago. Thank you for the fantastic step by step video from you and your dad. Great camera work too. 👍👍👍👍👍 five thumbs up.
You are very welcome and glad that it worked out for you. My 2006 Lexus has 250k miles, and my goal is to reach 300k, and I drove it to Mexico from Washington DC, and I'll be driving back next week.
WoW, this is the BEST instructional I've watched, and I've watched quite a few. Thank you so much. You are very detailed and your camera person was on POINT. Showing almost everything from a great angle.
Thank you so much. Appreciate you watching my video and glad you liked it.
I had the same problem Highlander (same type of brake actuator) trying to get the brake actuator bleed screw to bleed. Never did get any brake fluid to come out like you did. I think it was more important to remove air. I did a manual bleed of brakes but only pumped brakes a few times before bleeding each wheel.. Never had any problems afterwards. Brakes work great. Didn't need to do the electronic bleed or bring in to get a professional full brake bleed. Shops want $800 labor cost to install when most can do this on their own.
Yes totally agree.
Maybe it design not to take out oil just air just saying.
Luv you vid and it gave me the courage to do it on 06 HH. Thank you sir!
You are very welcome! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
Thank you, sir! You saved me from alot of worry and frustration! Keep up the good work. 👍
Thank you, sir, for watching my content!
Hi,
Thank you for posting the video.
I believe someone can help me with my ABS lights and Traction Control lights on problem. I have a Check VSC System message in my dash as well. No check engine lights. My vehicle is a 2008 Lexus RX400H (Hybrid - 290k kms on it).
I initially scanned it at a local mechanic garage and they did let me know it's a brake actuator pump issue (I believe it's ABS pump) and they did confirm they can't fix it since it's connected with the hybrid battery system. They fix only gas vehicles. The code is C1391.
Later, I did drive my vehicle to my used car dealership (not Lexus) where I bought it and they found the issue confirming the left rear abs sensor was not functioning and got it replaced and the light disappeared/ went off.
I did drive my vehicle for about 70kms and the ABS and the traction control lights came back. After driving it for a week with the lights on, I took it to my used car dealership to fix it. This time a different code showed up U0121 - Lost Communication with ABS Control Module. This time they confirmed the issue is with the ABS CONTROL MODULE/ Pump and to be replaced. It's an expensive repair. If it's with the ABS pump, I should have braking issues. But, I don't have any braking issues. Can someone help me with isolating the issue? Is it safe to drive the vehicle?
Best video so far!!!!!! Super clear and straight forward. Thank you
You are very welcome!
Thanks for the video. I like your ingenuity dealing with the bleeding valve. However I do want to be able to read the codes. I was wondering if you have a suggestion on aftermarket solution to Techstream scanner. eBay has chinese obd scanners but I have no idea if any of them might be good.
Thank you for watching. Autel has a scanner, but it is like $600. Buying that over the already expensive repair wasn't an option for me. You can get the tecstream software, but it has to be a Windows xp. It's a never-ending battle.
Great video. I see you bled the brakes from the top of the accumulator. I thought each btake cylinder had to be bled. What is the advantage of bleeding from the top of the accumulator? And when you do it this way how do you know each cylinder is properly bled.
I'm not quite sure. It was a total experimental that worked. I have put 50k miles since I replaced it in my lexus RX.
When removing the top nuts one should use a tubing (flaring) wrench.
Totally agree! Chances of stripping is reduced.
Are you a mechanic? If so how can I contact you.I live around around this area. Thanks
Thank you you save me a lot of time labor and worry
Glad it helped!
Thank you for this video. Good job!
You are welcome!
Excellent video!
Also I have a question as well, our 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid makes these strange duck/chicken sounds when working the brake pedal and using the brakes. It's stuttery and irregular in frequency, its not a squeak, squeal or grinding sound. It sounds most similar to like a chicken or duck or maybe a dolphin? The sound is coming from under the hood. Its truly bizzare. It happens most often when we are on an incline. The brakes always engage and work though.
The actuator pump goes on when the vehicle is turned on and off and periodically while driving after braking.
But so far no mechanic here has any idea what the chicken/duck sounds are though. Ive seen a few videos of Toyota Prius's making these sounds. Some people have said replacing the master cylinder has stopped the duck/chicken sounds.
We have no warning lights on the dashboard. No errors show on any scans. We are really stumped and confused but we know something is off about the braking system and the sounds are very abnormal and quite loud.
If you have any advice or ideas please let me know, like i said before even local mechanics have no idea whats wrong and Toyota doesn't have any availability for repairs for months. So we are kinda stuck until we know what to do about the car.
I would flush the fluid and see. I have never heard a similar noise from the brakes. I had a chicken kinda noise coming when I was braking and accelerating, and it was from my exhaust flange gasket, making the noise everytime the engine moved. If I have a sound clip, I could help.
@@hobolyf There is another video on TH-cam that demonstrates the exact sound I'm experiencing but from Toyotas Prius. The link is here th-cam.com/video/cmqMRuvPtHU/w-d-xo.html
In the video it says it's the actuator pump. However I know a few people who have fixed the strange sound by replacing the master cylinder and nothing was wrong with the actuator pump. And so far I haven't been able to get a straight answer from anyone or a mechanic about what is actually causing it! It's got me stumped haha also thank you for the reply!
Also in terms of exhaust, it wouldn't be that as the sounds still happen when the vehicle is EV and the ICE is off.
@@yutorzh7144 it's the pump. I use to hear that in my old pump. After replacing it sound is gone.
@@hobolyf Thank you! Time for a new pump 👍
@@yutorzh7144 try Flushing out the fluid first. Do you have any error codes at all?
What's wrong with using fender covers instead pf continually wiping off the spilled break fluid?????
There is nothing wrong with using fender covers. I just don't have fender covers.
Hi, I have a 2007 Highlander Limited Hybrid with AWD. The part on mine says 44510-48060
Why is my part number different than yours? Can I use the part number you provided or should I use the one off my unit?
Hi, it's better to contact your dealer and ask for the correct part number for your vin. That's how I got my part number.
OEM had a recall. CHECK CURENT PART #
*191 is the new version that fixed *060 faults.
You mentioned tech stream but I didn’t see how you programmed the new unit to the vehicle.
You don't have to. What you see is exactly what I did to change the unit.
Ok so what were you looking for while bleeding the system was brake fluid trickling out
All this done in a mall parking lot, perfect!
Yeah man. I live in a town home so that's my place that I work on cars.
At 21:52 you say, "Before you connect the battery, I’m just going to manually pump everything." This comment is followed by a full minute of manual pumping sounds, but the actual pumping is not shown. What is being pumped, the brake pedal?
Great video otherwise. Thank you!
Yes, manually pump the brake pedal and try to get as much air out.
The physical pumping doesn't actually move any fluid, it just sends an electronic signal to the actuator to pressurize the system...Toyota hybrids are brake by wire....
Do you have to remove the fluid frome reservoir? Is this just to make sure fresher fluid is in the system once completed?
I just remove all the fluid and put new fluid in the reservoir.
@@hobolyfkk thanks
@hobolyf hey. One more question...did you have to remove the two relays from the fuse box in the front the car behind the driver side head lamp?
@jamesbroomfield7799 I didn't this time, Removing the relay is the proper way. I just did another one I did the bleed procedure with an autel scanner, and I did remove the relays.
At around the 25 minute mark you are tightening and loosening that valve, what is the purpose for that and what are you looking for? I need to do this same procedure in my care
This whole job I did without any official procedure. when I saw that Valve, I assumed it's a bleeder valve based on the location. I used that to bleed the air from the unit. Which worked very well. I bled the air just like how you bleed brake caliper. Let me know if you have any more questions. I'm happy to help you.
@@hobolyf thank you for the insight. I’m in Michigan so I’ll probably wait until the weather is a little nicer. I appreciate your response if I have any questions I’ll be sure to reach out.
@jonathan koziel start talking to dealers. Toyota dealers will sell you the part at a discounted rate if you just talk nice and ask. I think I got mine for $1300.
@@hobolyf alright I’m getting ready to do this now, that bleeder hose, is it a certain mm?
@@jonathankoziel2746 go to a hardware store and get a clear tubing that fits. I can't remember the exact size I got.
those little nuts will not come off for me; i used wd40 and no luke any suggestions?
Get some flare nut wrenches. That will help
It doesn’t need to be programmed?
Nope
I had mine assessed at the dealership for replacing the actuator and over the phone the man said it needed to be programed. But after very politely asking which step of the repair needed to be programed, he went to the back, asked the technician, and then told me that it wasn't programming it needed, but that their TechStream software helped bleed the braking system.... and then I took my highlander home and did it myself.
This is cool video 😊
Thanks bro!
el manitas ❤️ eres un chingón
No comprende